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Brands Making Waves at BLE From museum archives and botanical collections to artist portfolios and corporate brands, this year’s Brand Licensing Europe exhibitors are showing how rich source material can be transformed into distinctive, contemporary products Total Brand Licensing looks at the latest launches and speaks to Golden Goose, IWM and the National Gallery about their plans for the show — and the opportunities shaping licensing in 2027. The most successful licensing programmes increasingly offer more than recognisable imagery. They give partners a story to tell, a wealth of authentic material to explore and enough creative freedom to make a collaboration feel relevant to today’s consumer. Across heritage, art and lifestyle licensing, those qualities will be much in evidence at Brand Licensing Europe (BLE), where established cultural institutions, creative businesses and strategic
agencies will present new partnerships and fresh approaches to brand extension. The Ashmolean expands its collection The Ashmolean Museum’s licensing programme continues to gather pace, with five new licensees joining ahead of BLE. The museum and its licensing agency, Start Licensing, will both exhibit at the show, on stands B276 and A234 respectively. Several of the new collaborations draw on the work of May Morris, the influential designer, embroiderer and daughter of William Morris. Cornwall-based LIGA has created a sustainable gift and homeware collection combining elements of her designs with her father’s
Amy Horlacher, Head of Brand Licensing and Image Archive, the National Gallery, London Why are you returning to BLE? BLE is an invaluable face-to-face opportunity to present the National Gallery and its collection to the industry. Partnerships between brands and IP are built by the people behind them, and the show gives us dedicated time to meet, exchange ideas and discover organisations whose visuals and values resonate with our own. We are returning after a short break with renewed energy, new creative and a more flexible, creatively led approach. It is a new chapter for our licensing programme. What news are you sharing? The National Gallery recently announced Project Domani, a major initiative that will redefine the Gallery for the next century. Plans include a new wing and public space connecting Trafalgar Square and Leicester Square, together with an expansion of the collection on display to tell the complete history of painting in the Western tradition. It creates new possibilities for partnerships, collaboration and audience engagement. What do you hope to achieve at the show? We want to build new partnerships, strengthen existing relationships and open our IP to new categories and audiences. Getting away from inboxes and speaking in person helps us find natural points of connection and see how fresh creative thinking could develop into successful collaborations. Where do you see the opportunity in 2026/27? There is an opportunity for licensing to return to authenticity, trust PAGE 28
poem Love is Enough. The range is available through LIGA stockists and the Ashmolean’s on-site and online shops. “We are really proud to be working with LIGA to continue to share May Morris’ story through beautiful, sustainable gifts and homewares,” says Dec McCarthy, Head of Publishing and Licensing at the Ashmolean Museum. The Well Read Company, known for handbags and accessories designed to resemble classic books, has also developed products inspired by May Morris, alongside a darker, gothic-influenced range based on The Dance of Death. Gilded of Oxford, meanwhile, is
and expertise. As retail rediscovers craft and originality, demand is growing for meaningful and flexible uses of IP that respect the hands, heritage and creativity behind the source material. Over the past year, a renewed strategic vision and newly appointed team have reshaped the National Gallery’s programme, balancing artistic integrity and cultural purpose with contemporary relevance and strong commercial ambition. Which recent collaboration caught your attention? Lick x Hunter. Translating Hunter’s instantly recognisable heritage green into the Green 170 paint shade now feels completely natural. The collaboration takes a brand rooted in the outdoors into interiors in a visually rich and experiential way. With shared values of craftsmanship and quality, it feels both credible and purposeful.
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BRAND LICENSING EUROPE (BLE) translating May Morris’ work into stationery, including embroidered notebooks, exercise books and greeting cards. The company draws its artwork in-house by hand and specialises in products created to enhance the experience of readers and writers. The theme will extend into interiors through a new partnership with British designer Fiona Howard, who is developing May Morris-inspired wallpaper and borders. Howard, whose work includes Sanderson’s well-known Dandelion Clocks, uses traditional processes including lino cutting, monoprinting and watercolour. Publishing remains another important part of the programme. Following Around the World in 80 Pots, created with Welbeck Publishing, part of the Hachette Group, the museum is preparing to launch Art Faces. Drawing on the Ashmolean’s collections to explore faces across art and history, the title is aimed at Key Stage 2 readers. Ian Downes of Start Licensing says the new licensees complement the programme’s focus on sustainability, Oxfordshire businesses and companies that are relatively new to licensing. “They bring fresh thinking and are reaching new market sectors,” he explains. “It is positive to see licensees being inspired by the Ashmolean’s wonderful collection.”
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For McCarthy, close collaboration is central to the programme. “The diversity and creativity are truly inspirational, and we are finding inventive ways to showcase the museum’s
incredible collections to a wider audience,” he says. “We work closely with our licensees through every stage of development. It really is my definition of a true partnership.” Creative charm from Emma Lawrence Designs Returning to BLE for a second year, Emma Lawrence Designs will present both established licensed products and a new portfolio of illustrations available for licensing. Lawrence’s work combines detailed drawing, warmth and gentle humour, with designs spanning gifts, homeware and publishing as well as a growing collection of location-themed artwork and surface patterns. Her children’s sub-brand, Little Nature Explorers®, demonstrates the breadth of the portfolio. Created to encourage learning and outdoor play, it is already licensed across growing kits, books, garden tools and accessories. Further opportunities include children’s clothing, stationery, games, immersive experiences and homeware. Since entering licensing shortly before the pandemic, Emma Lawrence Designs has built a partner roster including Kingfisher Cards, PAGE 29
BRAND LICENSING EUROPE (BLE) Will Smith, Brand Licensing Manager, IWM Why is BLE important to IWM? It is Europe’s key event for connecting with potential licensees from around the world, as well as catching up with other cultural institutions and sharing what is happening across the sector. What can IWM offer prospective partners? IWM represents five museums and historic sites: IWM London, IWM North, Churchill War Rooms, HMS Belfast and IWM Duxford. Our extensive archives contain photographs, films, paintings and other material spanning more than 100 years of British and Commonwealth history, from the First World War to the present day. They can support projects for audiences interested in history, aviation, military subjects, art and stories of conflict. What new partnerships are you presenting? We have two new Microdesigns microblock models: the Cabinet War Room at Churchill War Rooms and our N3200 Spitfire. The aircraft has also inspired a new watch with AVI-8, which has performed exceptionally well since its late-spring launch. A partnership with Chinese technology company Kangqiao Tech will bring digital collectibles based on our collections to China. It is IWM’s first venture into the Chinese market and an exciting new direction for a UK heritage institution. We have also partnered with London Sock Exchange on The Winston, a tribute to Churchill. What are the greatest challenges ahead? The cost of living continues to put pressure on discretionary spending. Evergreen brands may benefit, but consumers and retailers are likely to remain cautious and concentrate on proven categories. People will continue to value experiences, although financial pressure will make them more selective about which ones they choose. The Country Candle Company, Farrah’s of Harrogate, The Wheat Bag Company, Chatham Glyn, Samuel Lamont, Remaldi Eyewear, Greenwood Puzzles, House of Puzzles, Gardening for Kids, Zippy & George and Fair to Trade. Two further licensees are due to be announced at BLE. The designer’s collaborative, hands-on approach to product development has helped establish her reputation, while the small bird appearing in many of her illustrations has become a recognisable signature. A finalist in the Best Fashion or Talent Brand category at this year’s Brand & Lifestyle Licensing Awards, Lawrence will meet potential partners at the show to discuss new applications for the portfolio. NYBG builds global momentum The New York Botanical Garden (NYBG) will be represented at BLE by US agency Jewel Branding & Licensing and its UK partner Metrostar, exhibiting together on stand C261. Their joint presence reflects the PAGE 30
growing international reach of a programme now spanning fashion, home, health and beauty, gifts and lifestyle. At the heart of NYBG’s offer is a move beyond conventional style-guide licensing towards bespoke, content-rich collaboration. Partners can explore resources including the Rare Book Collection at the LuEsther T. Mertz Library, using historic illustrations and botanical material to create individual ranges with an authentic connection to the Garden’s work. Opportunities can extend into original content, marketing activations and events at NYBG itself. “NYBG’s licensing programme has reached a level of global momentum that reflects both the timelessness of its botanical archive and the strength of our partner network,” says Julie Newman, founder and CEO of Jewel Branding & Licensing. Fashion has provided a particularly international platform. Following its first global collection in spring 2025, Reiss returned
with an SS26 range reinterpreting butterfly and floral illustrations from the rare book collection, with a further collaboration in development for spring 2027. Liberty Fabrics has launched crafting, interiors and fashion fabrics, ready-to-wear and scarves based on patterns developed after the team visited NYBG’s archives. In Asia, Barrel Swimwear has released women’s and men’s swim and lifestyle products in Korea, followed by a second collection including childrenswear. Korean brand Rowoon has introduced stationery, gift and home products, while Japanese fashion label emmi has used archive botanicals across women’s clothing and accessories. These programmes join an expanding roster that includes Cotton On and Bioworld. Home, gift and stationery are growing too. SelectBlinds has translated hand-painted artwork and heritage illustrations into made-tomeasure blinds and curtains, offered through SelectBlinds in the US, Blinds2Go in the UK TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
BRAND LICENSING EUROPE (BLE) and Tuiss in Australia. German retailer Thalia launched its first gifting collection in February, with a second planned for spring 2027. Further collaborations include Paperblanks, MÁDARA Cosmetics and a gift and stationery collection with Portico for 2027, alongside GreenRow’s home range and Tea Forté’s botanical-inspired Volaré tea collection. Christa Boeke, VP Retail and E-Commerce and Brand Licensing at NYBG, believes the combination of authority, archive material and purpose makes the brand particularly versatile. Partners, she says, are creating collections that feel “design-forward, commercially relevant and deeply connected to the way consumers want to live today.” Art licensing at retail speed Also on stand C261, Jewel Branding & Licensing will highlight its global Artist Series programme and a licensing model designed to answer retail’s constant demand for newness. Its Master Agreement gives manufacturers and retailers access to the work of more than 50 artists through a single contract, avoiding the need to negotiate separate agreements for each creative. Partners can search for artwork through Jewel’s online platform, while its in-house creative team works with artists to provide trend direction across colour, pattern and style. “The purchase cycle has never moved faster,
with consumers wantAshmolean ing new, trend-forward product on shelves constantly,” says Newman. “That relentless demand for newness is exactly why we built our Master Agreement model — to give partners a platform that can move at the speed retail now demands.” For high-volume Master Agreement licensees, Jewel has also introduced The Diamond List, offering early access to new artwork, emerging trend intelligence and product-led direction. The strength of the Artist Series lies in the geographic and stylistic diversity of its roster. Artists currently attracting strong licensing momentum include Mia Charro in Spain, Vicky Yorke in the UK, Krissy Mast and Bouffants & Broken Hearts in the US, EttaVee in France, Gabrielle Neal in Australia, Rachael Hale in the US and Bex Morley in Canada. By rotating
Adam Bass, Director, Golden Goose Why is BLE an unmissable part of your calendar? BLE is the most efficient place in Europe to meet the full licensing ecosystem in one place: brand owners, manufacturers, retailers, agencies, innovators and deal-makers. It is where conversations accelerate and ideas become programmes, partnerships and revenue. You can achieve in three days what might otherwise take six months of meetings. What will visitors find on the Golden Goose stand? We build programmes around brands that add value to product categories, helping manufacturers grow revenue while delivering sustainable margins and attractive price points. Visitors will see new IP with proven demand and clearly defined audiences, alongside brands with focused licensing strategies. We offer a curated portfolio: fewer brands, deeper thinking and quality over volume. What news will you bring to the show? We will reveal two high-profile corporate and lifestyle brands entering licensing for the first time. We are also expanding our food and beverage portfolio with ranges across chilled, ambient and gifting TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
featured artists from season to season, retailers can refresh assortments and create an element of discovery for customers. Visit Total Licensing at E133.
categories, developed with best-in-class manufacturers for retailers’ 2027 plans. Visitors can also pick up our free Adult’s Guide to Licensing, an introductory booklet for people looking to understand the industry. What are the major challenges and opportunities for 2026/27? Retail margin pressure means ranges must genuinely drive footfall and basket spend. Consumers are more selective, so superficial licensing is quickly exposed, while supply-chain volatility and growing sustainability requirements call for smarter, more resilient partnerships. The opportunities include retailer-led, cross-category programmes; corporate and heritage brands with trusted stories; authentic extensions in food and beverage; and social-first models such as influencer marketing and limited-edition drops. What would be your dream collaboration? Cath Kidston and Le Creuset. Pairing those iconic prints with heritage cookware could create an emotionally resonant, cross-generational range at the intersection of nostalgia, quality and everyday joy. PAGE 31