Study on characteristics of Air vortex sewing thread and its application

International Research Journal of Engineering and Technology (IRJET) e-ISSN: 2395-0056

Volume: 09 Issue: 07 | Aug 2022 www.irjet.net p-ISSN: 2395-0072

Study on characteristics of Air vortex sewing thread and its application

Asst. Professor, Dept. of Fashion Technology, Bannari Amman Institute Of Technology, Tamil Nadu, India UG Scholar, Dept. of Fashion Technology, Bannari Amman Institute Of Technology, Tamil Nadu, India ***

Abstract - Study have been made to use air-vortex spun yarn of 40s count s sewing thread by using 1%, 3% and 5% concentrationsoflubricant Yarnstrength,elongation,hairiness,dryheatshrinkage,yarnabrasion,snarlingofyarnafterheat setting,loopstrengthandknotstrengthofair-vortexspunsewingthreadshavebeenstudied.Itisobservedthatthesewing threadmadewith5%concentrationoflubricant performs better in comparison to that made with 3% and 1% lubricationlevel Sewingperformanceofthreadshasalsobeenanalyzedbytestingseamstrength,seamefficiencyandthread breakage during sewing. Sewability of fabric depends on the low-stress mechanical properties and sewing thread properties.Thepolyestertexturedsewingthreadhashigherseamefficiencyandseampucker.However,useofcottonsewing threadforsyntheticfabricsreducestheirlifeduetopoorseamperformance.Sewingthreadmustbedesignedtomeettwo fundamentalfunctionalrequirements,vizsewabilityofthethreadand thread performance inseam. Good lubricationfinish is required to make threads run smoothly on high-speed machine, where temperature may reach over 300°C. Fast developmentinsewingtechnologyandever-increasingdemandfordiversifiedusesandapplicationsresultedindevelopment ofvarioustypesofsewingthreads.Selectingthecorrectsizeofthreadforaparticularapplicationisveryimportanttothe threadperformanceduringsewingandafterwardsintheseam

Key Words: Air vortex yarn, sewing thread, ring spun yarn, spinning methods, sewing thread lubrication, yarn twisting process, air vortex sewing thread, sewing thread application.

1. INTRODUCTION

Yarnspinningistheprocess ofcreatingorconvertingfibreresourcesintoyarnsingeneral.Spinninghasbeenknownasa processoftransformingrawmaterialssuch as cotton and wool into yarns for creating textile fabric or items since afew centuriesago.Ring-spun,rotor-spun,twist-less,wrap-spun,andcore-spunyarnsareamongtheseveralspinningtechnologies usedtocreateyarns Ring-spunyarnsarethemostcommonwayofproducingstaple-fibreyarns Theoldestofthemodern spinning methodsis ring spinning. The ring-spinningmachine receives the fibre material in the form of roving. The roving's fibremassisdecreasedusingadraftingdevice Theinsertedtwistgoesrearwarduntilitreachesthedraftingunit's fibres Thefibresformconcentrichelicalpathwaysaroundoneanother

IMAGE 1: RING SPINNING SYSTEM

Undertensilestrain,theusualforcesexperiencedbythefibersincreasetheadhesiveforcesbetweenthem,preventingfibresfrom flyingorslippingpasteachother.Itistheprocessofdrawingoutrovingtotherequiredyarncount,twistingthefibreswitha rotatingspindle,andwindingtheyarn onto a bobbin. These three steps occur at the same time and in the sameorder A twistiscreatedbyamechanicallyoperatedspindleonwhichtheyarnpacketissecurelyheld.Thetravellerisheldinplaceby afixedringthatwrapsaroundthespindle.Theyarnisdrawnunderthetravellerandthenledtotheyarnpackagefromthe draftingunit Thetravellermustcooperatewiththespindleinordertowoundthetwistedyarnonabobbintubecarriedby thespindle.Thetravelleristransportedalongtheringbytheyarnitisstrungwith,ratherthanbyanyphysicalforce The

International Research Journal of Engineering and Technology (IRJET) e-ISSN: 2395-0056

Volume: 09 Issue: 07 | Aug 2022 www.irjet.net p-ISSN: 2395-0072

travellerspinsataslowerratethanthespindle,allowingforyarnwindingonthetube.Theshapeoftheyarnpacket,knownas aCoporBobbin,isdeterminedbyaregulatedupanddownmovementofthering.Theyarncountsthatcanbeproducedby ringspinningtechnologyarethemostdiverse.Duetoitsslowerproductionspeedsandtheadditionalprocedures(rovingand wrapping)requiredtoproduceringspunyarns,ringspinningisaratherexpensive operation. Ringspun yarns are highquality yarns that are mostlymadeinthefine(60Ne,10tex)tomediumcount(30Ne,20tex)ranges,withatinynumber madeinthecoarsecount(10Ne,60tex) High-qualityundergarments,shirting,andtowelsareexamplesofendapplications Theringyarn'sfibresareveryparallelandhelicalincharacter,andthefibrearrangementisconsistentthroughouttheyarn's thickness Withnowrappingorloopedfibres,theyarnhasacompactstructure.Theself-lockedstructureiscausedbyintense fibre migration, which is impacted by the spinning zone's triangular geometry and high spinning tensions The yarn's remarkableaxialstrengthisduetoitsuniqueself-lockedstructure.

IMAGE 2: PRINCIPLE OF VORTEX SPINNING

Vortexspinningisayarn-spinningtechniquethatemploysanairvortex.Thefibrescreatedbytheseairfluxeshaveadistinct structure,whichgivestheyarnawiderangeoffunctions.Vortexspinningusesafour-rolleraprondraftingmethodtodraught pulledcottonslivertotheappropriateyarncount(fineness) Thedraftedfibresarethendrawnintoanozzle,wheretheyare swirledaroundtheoutsideofahollowstationaryspindlebyahigh-speedairvortex.Thefibrescreatedbytheseairfluxes haveadistinctstructure,whichgivestheyarnawiderangeoffunctions.Sinceitispossibletoeliminatemoveableelements such as thespindle andtraveller in ring spinning orthe centrifugein rotor spinning, air-jet spinningsystems have been developed.

IMAGE 3: STRUCTURE OF VORTEX YARN

TheperformanceoftheMuratavortexspinning(MVS)system,whichisthenewesttechnologyafterallinvestigationsofair-jet systems,hasbeenveryencouraging,particularlyfortheabilitytospin100percent cotton at high speeds (500 m/min) and the yarn structure resemblingringyarnsratherthanrotoryarns

Muratavortexspinning(MVS)isbasedonMurata'scurrentair-jetspinningtechnology,howeveritdiffersfromMuratavortex spinning(MJS)inprincipledue to the geometry of the air-jet twisting device employed. A nozzle blockwithinjectorsfor swirlflowcreation,aneedleholder,ahollowspindle,andaguidemembermakeupthisair-jetdevice.Asketchedsliverisfed toafour-linedrawingsystemintheMVSsystem.

International Research Journal of Engineering and Technology (IRJET) e-ISSN: 2395-0056

Volume: 09 Issue: 07 | Aug 2022 www.irjet.net p-ISSN: 2395-0072

IMAGE 4: NOZZLE BLOCK OF VORTEX SPINNING

Thefibres migrate tothe air-jet nozzle after exiting the front rollers. The twistingmotiontendstoflowupwardtowardthe frontrollersofthedraftingunit,eventhough the fibres are orientated to be twisted with the pressurized air effect;here, theguideelementprojectingfromthefibrebundlepassagepreventsthisduringyarncreation.Thevortexchambergeneratesa high-speedwhirlingaircurrentintowhichthepressurizedairisinjected.Thesectionsthatwilleventuallybecomecorefibres aredraggedintothevortexspunyarnpath.Thehighersectionsofsomefibresseparatedfromthefrontrollers'nippoint,on theother hand, are left open. After the trailing ends leave the nip point, they passviathespiralfibrepassageand,dueto thewhirlingforceoftheair-jetstream,they twine around the hollow stationary spindle and become the wrappingfibres.

1.1 Materials & methodology

Cotton(fiberlength32mmandfineness36micronaire)andpolyester(fiberlength40mmanddenier1)wereblendedina70 percentpolyester/30percentcottonratiotomakethe sliver androving.Then, usinganair-vortexspinningmachine,these materials wereemployed tocreate yarns withcountsof 30Neand40Ne.Thesliver'shankwas0.14Ne. Thesingleyarn createdbytheair-vortexspinningmethodwaswoundandthenturnedintosewingthread.Thevortexyarnwasconditioned toeliminatesnarlingandprovidezerolivelinesstotheyarn.Twovortexsingleyarnswerewindedinparallelandjoinedinthe machine. When feeding single yarn directly into a ply twisting machine, parallel winding prevents the single yarn from knotting.IntheTFO(TwoForOne)machine,theplyyarntwist was set at 14.2TPI for 30Neand 15.36TPIfor 40 Ne.Thedyeingwasdoneaccordingtotheusualprocessparameters Thefinishingprocesslubricatestheyarn,resultingina lowercoefficientoffriction.Inthisstudy,acommerciallubricantcalled"T23"withconcentrationsof3percentand5percent wasemployed.Previously,finishingwasdoneonawindingmachine,andtheadd-on%wasalteredbychangingthemachine's settings Inthisexperiment,2gofthreadwasdriedina110°Covenfor10minutesbeforetheweightwasdetermined.The threadwasthensteepedin100mLpetroleumetherfor15minutesbeforedryingfully.Thethreadweightwasmeasuredafter ithaddried.Thefollowingformulawasusedtocalculatethelubricationcontent;

2.

International Research Journal of Engineering and Technology (IRJET) e-ISSN: 2395-0056

Volume: 09 Issue: 07 | Aug 2022 www.irjet.net p-ISSN: 2395-0072

Abrasiontests,rubs 4800 2600 6900 3700

Looplength,N 60 40 90 65

Knotstrength,N 5 4.5 5.2 5.7 Yarnhairinessindex 5 4.5 4.1 3.3

TABLE 1: YARN PROPERTIES FOR YARN COUNT 30s AND 40s COUNT

3. Conclusion

It has been discovered that as the lubricant concentration rises, yarn strengthrises as well This could be because the friction between the yarn is reduced,whichenhancestheload-sharingabilityoftheunder-stressedyarn.30Sair-vortex spunyarnshaveagreateryarnstrengthratingthan40Sair-vortexspunyarns.Theinternalparallelbundleisheldtightly together by the number of wrappers. Vortex yarn has a greater strength value due to these underlying structural arrangements.Elongationpercentageisinfluencedbythelubricantlevel.Inthiscase,lubricationlevelof3percentleadsin moresewingthreadelongation.However,whenthelubricantlevelis5%,thesewingthreadelongationislow,andthesurface ofthesewingthreadissmooth.

However,duetothelowelongationandsmoothsurface,nobreakageoccursduringsewing.Atalubricantlevelof5percent, heatgenerationintheneedleduringsewingisalsoreduced.Forstitching,theelongationofthesewingthreadshouldbekeptto a minimum Thelower elongation valuesin thevortex yarnstructure could be owing to a reduction in or prevention of slippageasaresultofimprovedwrappergripontheyarnsurface,resultinginalowerelongation.Yarnswithalubricantlevel of3percentshrinkmorethanthosewithalubricantlevelof5percent Normalring-spunyarnhasatwistedstructurethathasa springy qualityto it and is prone to shrinking. There is no twisted structure inVortexyarn; Asa result of thisstructural difference,thevortexyarnhasafarlowershrinkingproblem.Duetoitsyarnstructure,thevortexyarnhasalowersnarlvalue thantheotheryarns

Theyarnhasverylittlesnarlingduetotheuntwistedcorefibers.Becausetheuntwistedfibersarecloselyfoldedtogetherwith thehelpoflubrication,yarnsnarlislowat5percentlubricantconcentration.Yarninthe40shasaminimalyarn-to-yarn abrasionbecauseitcontains3percentlubricant. For30sand40svortexyarns, 5 percent oflubricantresultsinahigher numberofabrasioncycles.Sincethesewingyarngoesthroughtheneedleatarapidpace,heatbuildsupintheneedle,causing thethreadtobreak.Asaresult,thesewingthreadtreatedwith5percentlubricationlevelpreventsthreadbreakingandruns smoothlyduringsewing.Thehigheryarnstrengthisresponsibleforthehigherloopstrengthof30ssewingthreads.Onthe otherhand, asthe lubricant concentration rises,theloopstrengthfor both 30sand 40svortex yarnsincreases. Theknot strengthofasewingthreadisusedtodeterminethethread'sbrittleness.Theknotstrengthisalsoareflectionofthethread's performance aftersewing. Knotstrength increasesaslubricant concentrationrisesfor both30sand40svortex yarns.In comparedto30ssingleyarn,40ssingleyarnhaslesshairinessbecausethewrapperfibersareentirelyboundonthesurfacein 40syarn,resultinginlesshairiness.Hairinessdecreasesasthelubricantcontent risesinboth30sand40syarn.Withan increaseinlubricantcontent,thewrappedandprojectingfibersareheldtightlytogether,resultingindecreasedhairiness.

REFERENCES

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International Research Journal of Engineering and Technology (IRJET) e-ISSN: 2395-0056

Volume: 09 Issue: 07 | Aug 2022 www.irjet.net p-ISSN: 2395-0072

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