ZÝNI – Tinna Fridriksdottir, BA (Hons) Fashion Branding and Communication by inspiredaub

ZÝNI CREATED AND DESIGNED BY TINNA KAREN FRIÐRIKSDÓTTIR

CONTENTS

LENYA RÚN............................................101-136

QUOTE BY NELSON MANDELA.............3-4

WORDS....................................................137-138

ILLUSTRATIONS & QUOTES....................5-6

DANI SALDANHA.................................139-176

NOTES FROM THE AUTHOR..................9-16

ILLUSTRATIONS....................................177-178

FLAGS...........................................................17-18

GRACE ACHIENG.................................179-212

COUNTRIES..............................................19-22

ILLUASTRATIONS & QUOTES.........213-214

CHANEL BJÖRK......................................23-56

MARIA AOYAMA..................................215-254

ILLUSTRATIONS......................................57-58

LOKAORÐ.............................................255-256

OMASAINT................................................59-98

QUOTE BY AUDRE LORDE..............257-258

ILLUSTRATIONS....................................99-100

SPECIAL THANKS..............................259-260

- Nelson Mandela

No one is born hating another person because of the colour of his skin, or his background, or his religion. People must learn to hate, and if they can learn to hate, they can be taught to love, for love comes more naturally to the human heart than its opposite. - Nelson Mandela

NOTES FROM THE EDITOR From an early age, I have been committed to justice, believing that every individual, regardless of their identity or background, deserves equal opportunities and fair treatment. Growing up, I struggled to understand why certain people face greater challenges due to factors like race, ethnicity, nationality, gender, or sexual orientation. These injustices have always seemed wrong, and though I now understand the historical and societal factors that contribute to them, I am determined to fight against them. Having grown up in a homogeneous society that has since become more diverse, I’ve learned that prejudice and discrimination toward the unfamiliar are never acceptable. We all have a responsibility to educate ourselves and foster mutual understanding. This publication reflects my journey in exploring identity, belonging, and discrimination. As an individual from Iceland who moved to the UK as a “temporary immi-

grant,” I’ve experienced how different circumstances shape our realities. Through research and conversations with people from diverse backgrounds, I’ve deepened my understanding of the structures that shape our societies. At its core, this work is rooted in the belief that, despite our outward differences, we are fundamentally the same. We are all human, sharing common experiences, emotions, and aspirations that deserve respect and recognition. Every individual is entitled to equal treatment, regardless of distinctions. With this publication, I hope to spark dialogue, reflection, and change, fostering a sense of community where diverse identities are celebrated and biases are challenged. Discrimination and prejudice exist worldwide, and this project aims to shed light on these issues. By sharing stories and insights, I hope to contribute to a more just and inclusive world where everyone feels seen, heard, and valued.

In this publication, I speak with six remarkable women from diverse backgrounds who either have roots in Iceland or the UK or currently reside in those countries. While we explore themes such as identity, belonging, diversity, representation, discrimination, colonisation, fashion, and more, each conversation takes its own unique direction. Our discussions cover social and political issues, as well as their personal journeys, perspectives, and the realities they navigate within their communities. These women come from various professions, allowing us to delve into topics specific to their experiences.

These interviews were conducted in a conversational style and may touch on sensitive topics and discussions.

Photography: Imogene Gatherer

SOUTH KOREA

ROMANIA

ICELAND

JAMAICA kENYA

JAPAN

SAINT LUCIA

INDIA

KURDISTAN

UNITED KINGDOM

SWITZERLAND

GHANA

Chanel Björk Sturludóttir is a woman with roots in Iceland, England and Jamaica. She is a media personality and journalist who has played a key role in amplifying diverse voices in Iceland. In this interview, she reflects on the contrasts between life in Iceland and London, exploring themes of diversity, anonymity, and identity. She shares how her experiences abroad have shaped her perspective, and we discuss her work, such as Mannflóran, a platform for fostering multiculturalism, inclusivity and representation in Icelandic media and society and her post-colonial studies at university.

When you move to Iceland, somehow, there becomes another level to your self-image, something that adds to your identity. You become an Icelander. But I’m half Icelandic. My dad is Icelandic, and I grew up in Iceland. Icelandic is my mother tongue, along with English, and I grew up with both languages. So, it’s incredibly strange to experience every day that people always tell me that I’m not what I think and know I am.

I‘s a completely fundamental aspect of psychology. Everyone wants to belong, and it doesn’t have to be just skin colour. I’m also referring to people who are white, for instance, from Eastern Europe, who experience similar issues related to their accents.

I wanted to start with this because I find it very interesting. You mentioned on your Substack page that your experience in Iceland and your experience here in London are completely different— especially in London, which has such a diverse array of people. What is the difference? What has been your experience?

Does it make you feel like you do not belong? Yes, and it‘s a completely fundamental aspect of psychology. Everyone wants to belong, and it doesn’t have to be just skin colour. I’m also referring to people who are white, for instance, from Eastern Europe, who experience similar issues related to their accents.

I would say that the main difference is that when you leave your house here in London, it’s such an incredibly large city that you feel like an ant in a massive crowd. Yes, perhaps in your local area or neighbourhood, you meet some familiar faces every day and foster a nice community in small neighbourhoods within the big city. However, it’s not as though you’re constantly running into someone you know, as in Iceland, where also some people might recognise you after being on television and such. This highlights the difference between living in a big city versus a tiny community.

Yeah, I think most Icelanders genuinely want everyone to learn Icelandic. However, sometimes, when immigrants don’t speak perfect Icelandic, they often can’t even be bothered to attempt to communicate with them. Yeah, to even try and understand.

Also, I’ve felt that when I step out of my house here in London, it doesn’t matter where I’m from or what my skin colour is, those factors don’t define or separate you from others. Yes, it’s quite common for Icelanders to ask, “Where are you from?” when they see people of colour. I’ve heard this numerous times from other people of colour who have stated that this has happened to them Yes, it seems like a default, a definition implying that you don’t quite belong in society, and it’s rather strange because I can fully envision being an immigrant, in a way, with such strong roots in another country. When you move to Iceland, somehow, there becomes another level to your self-image, something that adds to your identity. You become an Icelander. But I’m half Icelandic. My dad is Icelandic, and I grew up in Iceland. Icelandic is my mother tongue, along with English, and I grew up with both languages. So, it’s incredibly strange to experience every day that people always tell me that I’m not what I think and know I am.

Yes, because, like most immigrants, who are trying their best and wish to be part of our society, there ought to be much more understanding of them. Yes, one should have more patience for imperfect Icelandic. I believe that imperfect Icelandic can be incredibly beautiful. I also find it delightful when people slur or mix in a bit of English. I would love something similar, like Polish or Arabic splashes. It would be so great! Currently, for example, in Sweden, I think people say things like ‘Yalla’ and pick up some Arabic words. It’s incredibly enjoyable to listen to. Yeah, like here in London, they often adopt many slang expressions from other languages and cultures.

From the perspective of being a person of colour and other aspects, it was quite similar in the UK and Iceland, as I grew up in predominantly white societies. When moving from England to Iceland, did you find the living experiences similar? Yes, it’s similar in that I couldn’t see myself reflected in society, and that’s probably exactly why I adore London now, witnessing this diversity and experiencing it firsthand. However multiculturalism has developed relatively quickly in Iceland, but it still has some way to go. Of course, the first immigrant groups, or groups of people of foreign origin, in Iceland were just Danes. And then of course, the British and American soldiers.

CHILDHOOD

Did you live in the UK when you were younger, or were you born here? Yes, I was born in Manchester while my parents were studying there, and then we moved to a small town just outside Oxford in the south of England. I was raised there until I was 10 years old, after which we relocated to Iceland. However, I had always visited Iceland during the summers anyway. When you grew up in the UK, did you notice a difference between here and when you went to Iceland? Well, I don’t think I knew… I wasn’t really considering that yet, or I hadn’t realised all of that. Going to Iceland was primarily about meeting my grandmother and the family and experiencing the freedom that was and is in Iceland. It was truly amazing, we were allowed to stay out-

I was listening to the Mannflóran podside playing late into the night, and Mum didn’t mind, which was not the case here in England at all.

cast when you spoke with Guðný Bjarnadóttir, and she discussed how Iceland still holds this idea of not wanting to interfere with foreign groups. For instance, during World War II, Iceland was reluctant to mix with white British and American soldiers, but the fact that Iceland prohibited Black soldiers from entering the country speaks volumes about Iceland at that time Yes, it does say a lot. Yes, this idea that we Icelanders shouldn’t be mixing with other races or ethnicities is so crazy, and the fact that this idea still exists today Yes, it doesn’t have to be seen as a threat. What is being threatened? Okay, the people are worried about Icelandic, let’s teach people Icelandic.

mum and dad

Do you remember feeling any difference when you moved to Iceland from England? Yes, I think it was primarily the language. Did you speak Icelandic at home in England? Not much, because Dad had been in the British labour market, and I think he was just trying to improve his English as well, so he didn’t speak Icelandic to us very often at home. However, whenever I visited in the summer, I got to know the language a little. Yes, I faced some challenges adapting to the language, but it came quite quickly.

Were you exposed to Jamaican culture during your upbringing?

My mum moved to England when was very young Myshe mum moved to England – just six years old –very and young, when she was has always lived there. As just six years old, and has a result, I was raised with always lived there. As a result, much more of British culI was raised much more ture; I would saywith I’m quite of British I would British in me, culture. I associate a British in me, I lot say withI’m thequite UK and its culassociate lot with the UK ture as I often ahave tea for lunch Also, for andhaha. its culture asinI often have stance, while we celebrate tea for lunch haha. Also, for theinstance, Icelandic while Christmas on we celebrate December 24, we also celthe Icelandic Christmas ebrate the British Christon December 24, we also mas on December 25. celebrate thebeen British However, I have de- Christmas on December I liberately working 25. overHowever, the have working past few been years deliberately to better over the pastinfew years to immerse myself my Jamaican culture, exploring better immerse myself in my different foodsculture, here in LonJamaican exploring don and immersing myself different foods here in London in the music, history, and and immersing myself in the more. It feels quite strange

music, history, and more. It feels quite strange to be from somewhere yet not know that part of yourself. In my younger years, I even tended to suppress it or show little interest, as it felt like it made me different.

I have heard this from many Icelandic individuals of foreign origin or of a different race than white, and it is very sad that this is the case. Instead, kids, teachers and people in general should show acceptance and positive interest in other children from different places. Instead, they often make fun of them, and I think it’s simply ignorance. When people are unfamiliar with other cultures, their first reaction might be to think, ‘This is strange, this is different’, and they begin to judge. However, I think if they knew more and educated themselves, they would demonstrate a greater understanding and interest. Yes, absolutely. It’s like decentring yourself. Sometimes, you look at things from a different perspective and then think everything else is weird or backwards, and you even judge based on that. Instead of thinking, okay, maybe the way I do things is weird. Exactly. Did you feel that when you were growing up in Iceland, you were around other kids of foreign origin and diverse ethnicities, too? Not much, I recall the first summer after we moved when I attended an Icelandic language summer school. Therefore, there were many children of foreign origin, yet I didn’t maintain contact with any of them. My parents were rather opposed to me and my sister being in some kind of newcomers’ department, though I’m not sure if that’s still common. I believe some schools do have such a thing. However, they felt we needed to be part of the group. We settled in Grafarholt (a town in Reykjavík, Iceland) and attended elementary and secondary school there, where there weren’t many children of foreign origin.

At my school, diversity was also minimal. In year four, a boy who came from Mozambique, Africa, joined my class and we became good friends. He came here without knowing the language or anyone but his mum and his stepfather, who is Icelandic. Entering in year four, he was likely the first dark-skinned boy at my school. During recess, I remember a big group of kids followed him around. I thought it was quite an exaggerated reaction. I mean, you can understand the curiosity, which is also true in other societies. Before many people from there began travelling to different parts of the world, and I heard stories from my dad about his first trips, as well as from my cousins who are white and visited those regions. People just wanted to touch them and stuff like that. So, you can understand the

curiosity that arises from the unknown, but I think it’s somewhat like this: it reflects greatly on the society we inhabit that there must be such a level of curiosity about Black individuals due to the stark lack of visibility of Black people and diversity in general. If our curriculum included more diverse perspectives or if we were exposed to individuals from Mozambique or other regions of the world, it wouldn’t feel so strange and different. Absolutely. That was and is something I have really been contemplating since I listened to the Mannflóran podcast, where you spoke to Skúli Isaaq Qase, about his life and his mother and the impact she had on Icelandic society. I had no idea about her, and I think she was an amazing woman who should be talked about more. I be-

lieve this kind of information could be immensely beneficial for young children of foreign descent and mixed heritage. Just knowing this, they might think, ‘Yes, wow, this person achieved so much, so I can too’. I genuinely feel that representation is vital for children and young people, as you pointed out Yes, definitely, it’s so important. Yes, particularly in a society such as ours, where the majority of individuals in prominent positions or in the public eye are white Yes, we learn a great deal about history in school in Iceland, but there is little emphasis on African countries, Asian history, or other continents, the curriculum primarily focuses on the Western world.

When did you begin with Mannflóran? How did that concept come about? I believe it came about after I completed my studies here in the UK. I arrived in England in 2013 as an undergraduate, where I studied media studies and completed my degree in 2016. Then, from around 2018, I became obsessed with creating something that would spark change and elevate discussion. So, yes, it’s been six years since. I first started with Íslenska Mannflóran (The Icelandic Human Flora), a radio show on Channel 1 on RÚV, followed by the Mannflóran TV shows, and now I’m back with the Mannflóran podcast. I also founded the organisation Hennar Rödd (Her Voice) alongside my friend, and we’ve been working on that for quite some time, hosting events where we gather women from abroad to share their real experiences because Iceland is often regarded as an “equality paradise”, which is not really the case for everyone in our society.

Yes, there are all kinds of things that are not quite right in our society. Have you received any feedback after working on these projects like Mannflóran? Have you noticed positive reactions, or have you encountered any negative ones? I’ve mostly had very positive reactions. I would say I’ve maybe seen a few comments on Facebook and so on. I think for the first time the other day, I received a hate message on TikTok, where the n-word was used and everything. It was quite shocking and uncomfortable to receive. I don’t know if it’s the medium that some people are using in this way or if this is an indication of just a trend in society that this is happening more often.

Yes, there still appear to be ideas like that, which is so horrible, it’s devastating that people think this way and just say such things. In daily life, do you experience prejudice in Iceland? Well, I would say in Iceland because I have so often felt prejudiced or othered when people speak to me in English or something like that and say this and that, small comments, maybe it has led to such constant worry or anxiety about being discriminated, and I think that is very characteristic of people of foreign origin in Iceland. Because this is maybe not like if you were to compare it to the USA, where there is a lot of police brutality and stuff like that, but it’s like, you don’t feel that psychologically safe. I often experience in Iceland that I’m not calm when I walk out of the house, like I am here in London, because of my origin and appearance. I feel calm here in London because I don’t have to worry about it like in Iceland. Yes, it’s a problem because others feel the same way. I’ve heard this from many individuals, and if kids today feel this way, it’s concerning. How can we change it? I think that because I’ve been going to different schools and holding these kinds of lectures on multiculturalism, I’ve started to see how diverse some schools have become, like in Breiðholt (a town in Reykjavík, Iceland). It’s great to see the multiculturalism in some schools. And I think what’s going to happen is people are going to create or find their own support network. When I was younger, I remember the friends that are around me still to this day since primary school or high school, none of them are of foreign origin, so maybe they are my support network because we’ve known each other for so long, but they will still never be able to understand my experience fully. Maybe, hopefully, for kids now who are growing up in multiculturalism today, they’ll have this support network that wasn’t there before, which is incredibly positive, I think.

Yes, I’ve noticed a significant change in Icelandic society as well since my primary school years. I wanted to ask about your hair growing up in a predominantly white environment. Did you face difficulties with hair products and care? I saw you mentioned this on Mannflóran and that you visited Eunice, who styles your hair. It’s great that she understands your hair. When you were younger, did you feel like you needed help with your hair or find it hard to connect with others about it? Yes, I was perhaps very lucky in that my mum is a Black woman, so she knew how to care for my and my sisters’ hair. She was always braiding it and teaching us about our hair. However, outside the home, no one had hair like mine. For example, I was getting ready for a school ball with my friend, and she was straightening her hair, and I thought, should I do the same? So, when I did, it didn’t look the same, and she couldn’t understand why it didn’t look the same, haha. So yes, there was quite a lot of stuff like that that happened, when I reflect on it, there are plenty of funny moments. However, these funny moments also led to quite an identity crisis. I felt that way for a very long time. I was incredibly ashamed of my hair, and I believe the same applied to the UK because, with all the beauty stereotypes we encounter, there wasn’t anyone with an afro, not even Beyoncé or other major stars, when I was growing up. But I’ve come to now appreciate my hair in a completely different way today, and having someone like Eunice has been amazing. Also, there is this shop in Iceland called Afrozone, which is really good.

I do think that everyone goes through some kind of identity crisis at some point in their life. But for me, I think maybe, especially for Black or mix-race women, hair plays a big part in it because it’s maybe so the main thing besides skin colour that differentiates you in your environment.

Which is completely valid. Western society’s stereotypical beauty standards of women have, for a very long time, been that of a white woman with straight hair. Like last summer during the 2024 Olympics, Imane Khelif, a boxer, faced criticism for being too masculine, and I think it was because of her not being white. Studies showed she had high testosterone levels, but I wondered if they’ve only done these tests on white women.

Yes, I’ve sometimes heard that stereotypical saying about Black people being “always so angry” Which is just a myth to police people’s anger toward the inequality that exists. All these ideas have a purpose. They have both this kind of historical context and a purpose to maintain the current power system where white people, or people who are perceived to be white, are placed above everyone else.

Different races may have varying testosterone levels, yet that was not considered. Such accusations often target non-white women, especially Black women, who are often seen as too masculine. I believe it is often because they regard the stereotype of female beauty as being based on white women These are myths that have such deep historical roots. They are related to, e.g. slavery in the USA, seeing Black or coloured women as masculine served some purpose. Because they were seen as masculine, it could be justified more that these are bodies that can be exploited for work. And seeing them often as the stereotype is either they’re too masculine, or they’re extremely sexualised, and said they have big bums and stuff like that.

What do you think needs to happen for all these ideas—some of which are very extreme, like the riots in England last summer. What more can we do to change this? I think just exactly what you’re doing with this project, just keep talking and addressing these things. Power often works in a way that… It wants to be invisible, it wants people and the current system of power that’s in place regarding race and origin doesn’t want us to talk about this because of that, this status quo just continues. There is not necessarily such a final goal of a society that is completely perfect. There is always something that needs to be looked at, revised and fought for, and thus, we constantly need to be critical and just aware of this.

Like with these riots that were here this summer and this discourse that is in Iceland now about foreigners and the mixing of cultures, it’s just that kind of fear, I think... About losing your grip, I think that just like how the Centre Party (political party in Iceland) talks and how a lot of people talk about foreigners, this is based on the fact that they are so upset about “losing” Iceland or Icelandic culture. And I have to say that it’s really just kind of funny to think that immigrants or people of foreign origin have that much power in society to “take over” and absorb Icelandic culture or something, haha. I believe it’s a matter of turning these things upside down. I think it does you good, and the same goes for these riots last summer in England. It was mainly working-class people who live with great poverty and hardship and painted the Muslims and foreigners as scapegoats for what I have to say, the affluent or the upper class manipulating them and actually taking all the money from them.

Power often works in a way that… It wants to be invisible. It wants to remain unseen, and it wants people to look away. The current system of power related to race and origin discourages open discussion about these issues. As a result, the status quo continues.

There is no necessarily a final goal of a society that is completely perfect. There is always something that needs to be looked at, revised and fought for, and thus, we constantly need to be critical and just aware of this.

POST-COLONIAL STUDIES Tell me about your studies at university I’m doing a master’s degree in post-colonial studies at SOAS University. (The School of Oriental and African Studies). It has been very interesting and very eye-opening when it comes to racism and just the ideas we have about people in the world, societies, culture and such. Sounds very interesting. Are you learning about the histories of countries beyond the West, specifically their circumstances before colonialism and before the Western world kind of took control? The pre-colonial story, yes, a little bit. The program is like you can tailor it the way you want based on your chosen courses, so I haven’t been in history much. But I would say I have learned quite a lot about things like, e.g. African philosophy and things like that, how the colonial era developed, what impact it had and how we are still trying to untangle everything that was done then, it was much more than just treason, it was also kind of social, and created such ideas that a person is less valuable and less civilised because they are of this colour or from this culture.

Absolutely. I was also wondering if there are quite a lot of countries that are very poor, like in Africa, and isn’t it just because of this? Due to colonialism and all that, they came and took the natural resources. I just think it’s so sad. This applies to so many countries in Africa and other places, and people think, ‘Oh, there’s so much poverty in Africa’, but really there isn’t, so much has just been taken from them Yes, absolutely, both in Africa and the Middle East, as well as other places. In Africa, many of the nations we recognise today did not exist before, it was simply European countries that arrived with a ruler and drew arbitrary lines across maps, delineating countries and areas.

Yes, there were already tribes there with their own territories, and the European leaders did this. Then, they mixed tribes together, which caused so much instability and even wars. Yes, and one can imagine that if let's just say, Iceland had been split into different tribes or it had been like that before, it just might have been. And then some colonial lord would say here, ‘Okay, Iceland, now you are just one nation’. And these different tribes would perhaps speak their own language, and one of them would be like this, ‘We are the legitimate Icelanders’, and then the others would say something like, ‘No, we are the legitimate Icelanders’. That would then naturally lead to a conflict, and that is what has happened, and this conflict has since then just stayed like that, and this situation... I don't want to say a poor situation, but there is instability, and this instability has been there in these countries for so long. The West also wants it like that. If there is instability in some countries that are incredibly rich in resources, they can be like, ‘Okay, it's no problem. We'll just come in and sort you out and take your oil along the way’ and things like that.

Do you feel like fashion has had any effect on you and your identity, like here in England or in Iceland? For example, clothing items, accessories, or something related to your hair?

FASHION I think… especially here in the UK, I would say my style is very Scandinavian, haha. But fashion has been a place for me to try to adapt to my local environment and fit in more. Still, it has also been a platform for me to show the core of who I am as a person, which is such a great combination of so many different things. I’m actually very Scandinavian and Icelandic, but I’m also very British and love British. Also, I’m always getting more in touch with the Jamaican side of me. I see fashion, design and household stuff, like, it’s like a canvas to play with, I don’t want the way I dress or my home to fit too much into one box.

HER VOICE In March 2025, Chanel released a book along with other editors, Elinóra Guðmundsdóttir and Elínborg Kolbeinsdóttir titled Her Voice: Stories of Women of Foreign Origin in Iceland, which expands Chanel’s work in celebrating the multiculturalism that thrives in Iceland. Who came up with the idea of the book? Hennar Rödd (Her Voice) and Vía Publishing joined forces to publish the book Hennar Rödd: Stories of Women of Foreign Origin in Iceland (Her Voice: Stories of Women of Foreign Origin in Iceland. The editors of the book are Elinóra Guðmundsdóttir, Chanel Björk Sturludóttir, and Elínborg Kolbeinsdóttir. The idea for the book is inspired by a project my mother began almost fifteen years ago, she also aimed to publish a book featuring stories of women of foreign origin in Iceland. Unfortunately, it seemed that Iceland was not yet ready for that conversation at the time, as securing funding for the project proved difficult, and the book was never published. Did any other people contribute to the work of the book? In addition to the editors, many talented people have contributed to the creation of the book, including the photographer Kaja Sigvaldi, Kolbeinn Jara Hamíðsson

and Þorgeiri Blöndal, the designers, and Ásdís Sól Ágústsdóttir, as the translator. How many women are featured in the book? The book contains the stories of 33 women who have enriched Icelandic society in one way or another and reflect the diversity of women of foreign origin in Iceland. The stories discuss the challenges they have faced due to a lack of integration into Icelandic society and account for beautiful life experiences in moving to a new country, learning a new language, and even raising families in Iceland. How has the reception been? The reception has been excellent, reflecting Icelanders’ interest in multiculturalism in society. What are you trying to achieve with the book? The content of this book is not intended as a political act, although politics can be found in almost all subjects. The stories are intended as an insight into the lives of women of foreign origin, who may at first glance seem distant to Icelandic readers, but beneath the surface, the familiarity becomes clear. We hope that these stories will inspire readers as much as they have inspired us. We shed light on the experiences of women of foreign origin in Iceland, who have contributed so much to Icelandic society in an invaluable way.

Photography: Chanel’s archival images.

OMASAINT is a young woman from the outskirts of London with Jamaican, Saint Lucian, and Ghanaian heritage. In this interview, Oma reflects on growing up in a multicultural family and the profound influence of her grandmother. She discusses struggles with identity and belonging, shaped by her diverse family and experiences in school. Oma shares her journey to Arts University Bournemouth, where she studies Fashion Branding and Communication, and discusses her final major project, saintspelago by OMASAINT and future plans.

FAMILY LIFE Where are you from in the UK? I’m traditionally from Buckinghamshire, specifically High Wycombe. I grew up there, but I was born in Maidstone, Kent, and then my parents moved. My mum was quite bold and literally spun around while pulling up a map, and that’s how they chose Buckinghamshire. So, they initially moved to Beaconsfield, where I attended nursery and primary school. I think I was in year two when we moved to High Wycombe, and I’ve been there ever since. How-

ever, I’m always sort of in London because both my parents are originally from there. My dad still commutes in and out of London and has done so for years. They just moved away to have a calmer, more relaxed life away from the city. Tell me about your grandma My grandma’s from Jamaica. She moved to London, I think, in her early twenties, and she had my auntie back in Jamaica quite young. But then she also ran away from home at a young age, between fourteen and sixteen. She ran away and started

her own shop to save up to go to the UK because she always wanted to get out of Jamaica for a better life. Where she lived, it’s in the middle of nowhere, and it is quite a dangerous area. She moved by herself to the UK as one of eight siblings, so it was a big family. Her brother moved to London first, and she followed him to the Borough of Brent. Her brother went to Stonebridge while my grandma stayed in Harlesden, North West London, where my mum and older sister, Chanelle, grew up. My mum didn’t leave home until she was thirty when she moved in with my dad. So, my mum is British born and bred.

So, your mum’s dad, where is he from? My mum's dad is from Saint Lucia in the Caribbean. Although my grandparents met in the UK, my grandma practically taught him English. He spoke Saint Lucian Patois, which is quite different from Jamaican Patois and is like broken French. He didn't know much English, so my grandma helped him learn. Jamaicans typically stick together, they would rather you marry outside your race or with someone from a white family rather than with another Caribbean person who is not Jamaican. Jamaicans tend to be a rather proud nation, filled with a strong sense of identity. They

are also the largest island in the Caribbean, leading to a kind of segregation, they question why someone would want to associate with a smaller island. This contributes to a perception of Jamaica as the premier country, and it creates a barrier for those not from Jamaica. Consequently, my mum received a lot of criticism from her cousins for being with someone not Jamaican, especially since she became a mother. My grandparent’s relationship also didn't fare well because my granddad lied about his age, my grandma was around thirty-one when she had my mum, while my granddad claimed to be in his thirties but was just a twenty-one-year-old

boy! He also ran away from home and somehow ended up in England, where he then met my grandma. My grandparents’ relationship was very erratic, and my granddad, I believe, has around twelve children with various women. It’s slightly amusing since my mum is his first child in the UK, but we’re unsure if he had other children in Saint Lucia before moving. Interestingly, my mum has a sibling who is just a couple of months younger than her, born in the same year.

What about your dad? Where is he from? My dad is from Ghana. He was born there and comes from quite a well-to-do family. His parents were diplomats, so they travelled a lot. You know all those fancy parties with the world leaders you see in the TV show The Crown, like when the royal family visited Ghana and the world leaders of Ghana, that would have been my grandparents. And like when they hosted all those events in Buckingham Palace and things like that. My grandparents were invited to all those events as well. Do you know why your dad wanted to come to the UK? I think he just wanted a change from Ghana, as he saw his life as being more than just a typical Ghanaian. His parents were people of importance, so from a young age, he travelled with them. This allowed him to see different countries and explore various cultures, which really interested him. Being in a country that… While Ghana is technically on the rise, it’s still considered a third-world country, which had a significant impact on him. When

he came to the UK, it was vastly different from the life he was accustomed to. In Ghana, he experienced a relatively wealthier lifestyle. Therefore, when he arrived here in the UK, he saw what poverty was like for the first time. From a foreigner’s perspective, one wouldn’t think poverty exists in the UK. You just see nice London and all that. But he witnessed what true poverty was like, and he was a bit shocked. Did your parents meet here in the UK? Yes. They met because they’re both in this spiritual group. So, they’re quite… I wouldn’t say in a hippie-dippy way, but they strongly believe in it, so I was raised to be quite spiritual. They first met at a library during a seminar, but it wasn’t significant since my mum wasn’t really interested and just had Chanelle, my older sister. She became a mother at twenty, yet she has always emphasised her individuality, my mum desired her own life as well and was unapologetically selfish in pursuing it.

Do you have more siblings? Yeah, I‘ve got more siblings. So, obviously, my mum had my sister Chanelle when she was twenty. And then, she just didn’t really have any more kids. Um, my dad’s situation is a whole other story, but basically, he had kids as well. His first ‘baby mum’ was back in Ghana, and it wasn’t anything special, she wasn’t his girlfriend or anything—she just got pregnant. He met another woman from Ghana, who is the mother of his other children. She wanted to move to this country, but it obviously worked out better if you were married. By that point, my dad was a full British citizen with both a Ghanaian and a British passport. She came over to the UK but then didn’t want to settle in England. They had a very hot and cold relationship, but they ended up having four kids, so it was all quite mad.

Did you grow up with any of them? From when I was a baby to about six when we first moved to High Wycombe, it was just the four of us: my mum, my grandma, my sister Chanelle, and me. That was my family, along with my dad, but I still felt quite distant from him. Then, all of a sudden, his three kids came to live with us. It was quite a difficult situation, and it was a huge change for me. I remember I was mute, I didn’t talk to them at all for about a month, maybe two. I couldn’t talk to them because it was just so weird, and I wasn’t used to the situation. It’s like, suddenly, I had siblings. I had heard about them and knew they existed, but it was always at a distance. I only really knew about my sister Ellen, who’s closest to my age. She’s seven years older than me, so I was more familiar with her.

It was a crazy mixture of cultures, but it’s not as uncommon now. But back then, for an African man and a Caribbean woman to marry and form a union, it was a significant statement. My mum was heavily influenced by her mum, who‘s

Jamaican, and their side of the family is still a strong unit to this day. On my mum’s side of the family, most of her cousins are with other Jamaicans, whether they’re British Jamaican or whatever, they‘re still carrying on that tradition.

What do your parents do for a living? For the longest time, my mum has been making clothes for ages, she’s really into fashion. She and her friend, back when they were in their twenties, had their own clothing shop, and it was doing really well until one day, someone came in and stole all their designs. Literally, they came to the shop, and it was just kaput.

grandma raised me. So, even though I had both parents in the household, my parents were very career-driven and very focused on themselves, they don’t really, I don’t know, see themselves as stereotypical parents with loving relationships. I’d say my dad is more of a parent in the financial sense. If you really need something, then he’ll provide it, but only if it’s reasonable, um, and you know, if you’re in danger, you call him, and he’ll pick up, it’s like that type of situation.

But yes, for the longest time, art and creativity have always been her thing since she was a

kid because my grandma was quite creative and did everything. Obviously, my grandma worked many different jobs because it was really just her supporting my mum, as her brother had to support his family since he had quite a few kids as well. My grandma did numerous things as hobbies to make extra money.

Songs of Praise. She did a bit of everything. I think I get my creative side from my mum and grandma, while my dad is an accountant. My dad is very logical, and everything is based on statistics, to him there’s always a number for something. He’s quite practical in his thinking, and for him, time is just money.

She used to be a hairdresser, and people would come to the house for her to do their hair. She’d draw and paint all the time, and she was also part of a choir and all that, appearing on

Do you speak any other languages apart from English? Actually, I do speak Patois, that’s Jamaican Patois, because for most of my life until I was fifteen, my

up, did you sense a mixture of cultures? Did you experience that at home with your parents and family? Yeah, it was a crazy mixture of cultures, but it’s not as uncommon now. But back then, for an African man and a Caribbean woman to marry and form a union, it was a significant statement. My mum was heavily influenced by her mum, who‘s Jamaican, and their side of the family is still a strong unit to this day. On my mum’s side of the family, most of her cousins are with othWhen you were growing er Jamaicans, whether

they’re British Jamaican or whatever, they‘re still carrying on that tradition. Also, since my dad is Ghanaian, and most African cultures are known to be quite strict, they emphasise the importance of children achieving high grades, so it was a very strict, almost militaristic household. On the other hand, my mum is very free-flowing, not strict, no rules, very carefree, and laid-back, almost hippie-like. So, it’s very different parenting styles.

Have you felt a blend of different cultures growing up and living in the UK? Yeah, it was a mixture because, obviously, being in this country, I’ve always felt more connected to my Caribbean side or my Jamaican side, as that is what is most prominent here. But I don’t feel St Lucian at all. I never had a relationship with my granddad, and he passed away. My dad doesn't really incorporate Ghana into his lifestyle. He does now, but growing up, not really. I remember when I was younger, thinking, 'Oh, can't you teach me a dialect in Ghanaian?' because there are different dialects based on your village and the tribe you‘re from. They speak completely different things, so there's no such thing as speaking Ghanaian, as they have various dialects. He would just say, 'Why do you need to know about that? You were born in this country, and you speak English'. I didn‘t really feel that connected to Ghana until I took that first trip when I was about seven, and then

I actually met my grandmother for the first time and saw her house, which allowed me to feel a bit of Ghana. Even before visiting Ghana, I had already been to Jamaica. So, I only feel Ghanaian when I'm there, surrounded by my heritage, family, and all of that. And then, every time I went to Ghana as a kid, which was only a fair few times, my dad never came, so it didn't feel like I connected with his family. There was never a connection between him being from Ghana and being there.

What dialects does your dad speak? So, my dad speaks different Ghanaian dialects. The main one he uses is Twi. At the same time, the African version of Patois is called Pidgin, which is essentially broken English. It’s rather funny because the main official language of Ghana is English. So when you go to Ghana, it’s English you’ll hear, it’s not their local language that you wouldn’t understand—it’s straightforward English. You’ll grasp everything because that’s their primary language. Naturally, in the villages and among the tribes, that’s where they truly speak these dialects. Even when my dad chats with old school friends or his siblings on the phone, it’s often a mix. Some of the conversations are in dialect, but I’d say a good 70% of it is still in English. So, if you heard him on the phone, you’d get a sense of what the conversation’s about. What about other things, like food from their culture? My mum does cook, and her cooking is very much traditional Jamaican staples and food. One of my grandma’s friends, Aunt Joey, taught her how to cook because my grandma didn’t have the time, being occupied with numerous jobs just to make ends meet. So, my grandma’s friend would look after my mum and literally teach her how to prepare most Jamaican dishes, such as Ackee and Saltfish, rice and peas, brown stew chicken, fried chicken, and dumplings—you name it. Did you ever live with your grandma when you were younger? Practically, it was the sort of thing where, growing up, my grandma was always a part of my life. I would visit her practically every weekend, I went all the time. So, London was never that bright and glamorous city, you know how a lot of people think of it as this glamorous city. Well, it was never like that for me because I was going to a particular area that many Londoners would probably refer to as the real London. It was quite grimy and gritty, and you wouldn’t want to walk around in the middle of the night. You needed to walk quickly to avoid getting in the wrong person’s way and things like that. So, it was like that, but my grandma would also come to visit us a lot, we always went to pick her up and such. So, she was always present, and even when she wasn’t around, she would literally call our house every day.

Did your grandma and mum talk much about Jamaica? Yeah, they did that all the time because, obviously, my grandma was from there, and it was a big part of her life. She had a crazy Jamaican accent.

why I was perceived as quiet because I was loud at home. I felt like they thought I was stupid, which led me to give up on trying. I felt like education wasn’t for me, so I just let it go. I fell behind in maths, and they even put me in a class that was a year below because I didn’t care anymore. That attitude trickled into secondary school, where I still didn’t care about academia, even though I was passionate about subjects like English, writing, and history. But I just didn’t care. Even in secondary school, history felt limited. It seemed

PRIMARY AND SECONDARY SCHOOL

Perhaps we could discuss something somewhat related to school life and college. How was that for you? In primary school, I always felt like I was trying to find my place. I don’t know, I felt like I had to be British at school and present a certain version of myself that wasn’t my true self, which I could be at home. At home, I was still navigating my situation with my siblings, so I never really knew who I was or who I wanted to be.

ma, and my sister, I knew who I was and where I came from. That felt nice, it was like I was putting on a façade at school. I had friends, but they didn’t really know me.

I was also the only Black girl in a class of thirty, and the only other people of colour were me, an Indian girl, and a Pakistani boy. There was also a girl who was a quarter Caribbean, but she presented as very white. That was the situation at school, and I didn’t like it I felt quite lost during most of much, but naturally had to put my primary school life, con- up with it. stantly questioning where to fit in. But the moment I was at Transitioning to secondary home with my mum, my grand- school meant I was becom-

we were only learning about British history and their view on it. That’s pretty much it, you learn a bit about British history and a little about the Holocaust, but not too much. And the only thing you learn about Black people is slavery, which is just one section. Yes, there is so much more to learn about Black history and culture I remember it was just an awkward topic because we would watch these slavery films that we had to sit through, and I was just like, what the hell is

this? I thought it was a joke. Then afterwards, they would ask, ‘Anyone got questions?’ and the tutors would actually look at me as if I wanted to say anything, but I didn’t. I also remember certain moments, like in primary school, when I was practically friends with everyone in my class. There was this one girl who just didn’t like me, and her grandma was quite racist—very much so. The girl was very much a grandma’s girl, and I recall one time she called me a baboon right there in school, in the playground.

ing my own person, not just a child anymore. It was refreshing because I could be my whole self, but I also carried alot of anger—hidden anger from my living situation at home and how I felt in my primary school. I felt it was time to rebel and let myself loose. In primary school, they always deemed me as quiet to the point where they thought I had special needs. My Year Four teacher even tried to place me in a special needs group, and my dad firmly refused, saying there was nothing wrong with me. He saw how I was at home, and he just didn’t understand

Did you tell anyone? No, I didn't tell any teachers or anything because, at the same time, I just didn't give a fuck. It didn't actually affect me at all because I could tell this girl was extremely insecure. I was already dealing with my own problems at home, which is what really messed me up as a child. The girl was so insecure and was very overweight for her age as a child as well, and I had more friends than she did. No one else liked her because she was literally a bully, it wasn't just me—literally, anyone and everyone felt the same way. I did actually feel bad for her because the reason she was the way she was, was because her mum used to bully her constantly, and we would witness it in the playground. What was worse, her mum worked at the school, so we saw it all the time. Her mum bullied her relentlessly.

I also remember having purple braids in secondary

school. My head-of-year teacher said, ‘Oh, you've dyed your hair, you need to remove the dye’. I replied, ‘Well, no, I haven't dyed it. They’re extensions, so I just got them done, and I'm not taking them out’.

reside in four to eight-bedroom mansions, and there are many mansions there. It’s quite a well-to-do area. On one side, there are estates and such, which are not as nice, but it's still not dangerous at all. I attended a really good school, but Did they not do anything when I actually started back more about it? in nursery, it wasn't great. No, I just kept them. I’m not taking my fucking braids However, it improved sigout for you, and braids are nificantly when we got so expensive. Do you know a new head teacher and how long I've sat in that stuff. Then, when I was in chair? My neck is killing me, Year Two, we moved to like no way. Wycombe, but my parents wanted to keep me in the In the area where you grew same school. It wasn't a long up, was it true, as you men- drive away, it was literally a tioned in primary school, ten to twenty-minute drive, that there were barely any so they would still drive me other kids of colour? Was to the same school. But obit always like that growing viously, Wycombe is very up? different because it has a lot Not really. So, obviously, of diversity, with many peomy primary school was in ple of colour. Most people in Beaconsfield, which is a Wycombe are either Black predominantly white area. or Pakistani. While it now has more people of colour living there, Beaconsfield is still very much a posh area. People

Did you feel better or more like you belonged there? Yeah, I guess so, but I think it‘s also like I had become a teenager and started secondary school. It was different because I was around more people of colour, more people who understood me. And there were actually more white people who genuinely knew and understood culture. They were much more aware of things like that, and since my school was in the middle of nowhere, most of them came from Wycombe. It was sort of nice because even when we’d hang out after school, I could easily walk to where they lived in Wycombe, and that was just nice. In primary school, why do you think you felt the need to be someone else?

I feel as though it was very much a barrier preventing anyone from seeing my sensitivity, my emotions, or anyone truly understanding who I am and how I feel about things. I essentially hid my feelings and never showcased anything.

Even in secondary school, I adopted an even harder exterior, and I had an entirely different persona because back then I was called Gabby, my actual name is Gabrielle. So essentially, I was Gabrielle at home and Gabby at school, college, and so on. I had a hard exterior, was a loudmouth, was rude, and didn‘t care what anyone had to say. I’d get kicked out of classes for being outspoken, just a lot of stuff. I was in my rude girl era, which I don’t regret at all. Why are you called Oma now? So, I’ve always felt that my artistic self, my creative self, was completely different, almost out of this world, from the time I was in college. It’s sort of linked to my personal views on spirituality which are entirely different from my parents’ . Um, so yes, it was a whole thing. It began when I first created my Uber Eats account. I didn’t want them calling me by my government name. I didn’t want them addressing me as if they were my friend. So, I really thought about it and realised that my surname, Amonoo, could be flipped around. I took the ‘Amo’ and turned it into ‘Oma’ , and I thought, ah, they don’t know who I am. I officially changed my Instagram name to @omasaint, and now that‘s my full legal name. The Oma comes from my surname, while Saint relates to Gabrielle. I initially considered Angel for Gabrielle but thought that was a bit much. Then I literally looked it up on Thesaurus.com, and when Saint came up, I thought it had a nice ring to it. I realised that if I ever do any branding, it’s a good name to keep. I thought that was quite cool, and it’s definitely paid off now, but I can’t believe my 16-year-old self came up with it.

Have you ever experienced any discrimination or racism growing up, apart from that girl calling you that? Actually, no, I’ve never been racially profiled in my life, and I’ve never had any bad experiences. Yes, every now and again, you encounter microaggressions where people say things, but that doesn’t affect me at all because it’s simply that they are unaware, uneducated, and generally don’t know. I don’t mind explaining things to them if they’re interested, but if they’re not, then I don‘t care, they can carry on with their day. It’s just a microaggression—it itches a bit, but I’m used to it being in a country that I’m not truly from, you know? So, it’s not really a big deal to me. Additionally, my parents and my grandma were very much about standing in your own path and being your own person. Growing up, my parents see us all as human beings first and foremost. In fact, they have made friends with people from every single culture. If you asked my dad about certain religions, he’d know about them because he literally knows about most religions. They enjoy cultural food, and the moment they encounter something cultural, they absolutely love it—they really soak it up. They are very much like cultural warriors. As you said, your parents are quite spiritual, aren’t they? Are they religious too? So, they came from traditionally religious backgrounds, as I feel that this is deeply rooted in Black culture, particularly within African-American culture. My dad’s family comes from quite a religious background, and being from a developing country means they are constantly praying for better days, which is very much evident among the people in Africa. My grandma’s stories reflect a similar experience, particularly in Jamaica, where her family is extremely religious. However, their religiousness is not always strict, for example, they may have multiple husbands, and the women often take charge, but they pray for

everything, praying for their future and for everything they desire. My grandma would literally pray for assistance in opening a bottle of water, as she was devoutly Catholic and attended church regularly. Yet, she was very accepting of me finding my own path. While I knew my grandma was very religious, I was also aware that my parents were quite spiritual. They discovered their own spirituality through a book that their community really values. They found it in their thirties, and it has been a guiding principle in their daily lives ever since. Did that influence you or affect you whilst growing up? Yes, I would say it was somewhat of an influence because I had a

very non-atheist upbringing. They still believe in God but view Him more as a higher power or energy source rather than devoting their lives to religious practices, which I do appreciate. Essentially, I believe in a higher power, an energy source that assists me. My parents also believe that this higher power, or energy, is guiding you to where you are now. They strongly believe in past lives and reincarnation and that you don’t choose your parents, rather, you come to the parents you are meant to be with at the end of the day. They have very strong morals surrounding these beliefs, which I do agree with. Overall, it has created quite a chill setting to be around.

You mentioned that you’re always conscious of not being originally from this country. Was that perhaps something you felt as a kid, that you didn’t completely identify as British or English?

But I‘ve never really felt out of place, it‘s the type of thing where, like, I don’t see myself ever settling in England with a family or anything. I probably will be here for a bit, but I’ve just imagined myself as someone who travels around, being a free spirit.

I feel that in this country, I am British, but I believe it’s not just me. I think many people of colour and individuals from various cultures here also identify as British. But I think there is a distinction between being British and English, where being English is often associated with a white background. It’s sort of like you stem from here, you know? So, it’s like I see myself as British, but I’d never be English. When I think of English people, I think of the Queen and the Royal Family.

FASHION INFLUENCES Perhaps we could delve a bit into fashion and consider how cultural styles from Jamaica or Ghana may have influenced you somehow. For instance, when you were growing up, did your mum, who has a strong interest in fashion, play a role in that? Yeah, my mum was very fashion-focused, being with her felt like spending a day at Vogue. It was very much like that, an atelier, like fashion week. Even to this day, when my mum is sewing, she literally has Dolce and Gabbana catwalk videos playing in the background. She’s so dedicated, she loves it. And obviously, being a seamstress makes it even more personal for her. I remember she tried to teach me how to sew, but I didn’t enjoy it. I can manage hand sewing and stitching, but when it comes to using the machine, I just feel like it’s controlling me, and I’m not keen on it. So, the clothes your mum was making, or how she dressed, what was that like? So my mum and her outfits are quite unique. I don’t know how she manages them, but they have a very ready-to-wear vibe with a touch of avant-garde. And then, of course, her meeting my dad and going to Ghana really influenced her style. She loves sourcing fabrics from Ghana and exploring the different uses of African textiles and Kente cloth, which are traditional staples in Ghanaian fashion. It’s a bit like Afrofuturism fashion, and she also adores gorgeous traditional British silhouettes like those

you’d see in Pride and Prejudice. She loves British dramas and has a fondness for costumes. Growing up, she made us watch countless musicals, which was fun. Additionally, she’s a worldly woman who appreciates things like saris from India and all the different ornate designs. I remember she would get me and my sister to do belly dancing in the living room, just so we could be infused by another culture, yet again. Is there any traditional Jamaican clothing? Not really, because obviously, Jamaica encompasses a multitude of cultures, blending European and African influences to create the Caribbean. So, it’s a mix of experiences similar to what you’d find anywhere, and it’s quite extraordinary. Also, when I visited Ghana, certain dishes made me think, ‘Oh wow, they do this in Jamaica but in a completely different way’. Interestingly, many African elements still resonate more than expected, particularly in their cooking and various practices. And, of course, the whole Rastafarian movement is significant, Rastafarians are very much aware of their roots in Africa, and they celebrate that. However, many people from the Caribbean say that they’re Caribbean and not African. I suppose, as you said, the Caribbean is a rather mixed place of cultures, and it differentiates where people originally come from

Yeah, like my grandad‘s family all spoke French because, in their heritage, there’d be French blood there. But then I remember my grandma would be like, oh, there’s Cuban heritage in us, um, and Spanish heritage, and it’s just a mix of stuff. Like if I did my DNA, it would probably be crazy. I suppose when it comes to music, Jamaica holds considerable significance due to its unique and distinct genre of music. It is also quite popular here and in the UK Yeah, um, which is sort of crazy. I find it surreal and sometimes weird because, obviously, Jamaica has had a significant impact on the UK. You even hear people in London use slang that is actually Jamaican. This slang stems from patois, and I just find it so funny because when I hear certain people say it and it doesn’t sound right, I’m just like, it’s literally my culture. I don’t know, I find it amusing, and it’s just so bizarre to me. But then, obviously, that’s happening with Africa as well and its culture because of the rise of Afrobeats and Amapiano and all of that. Um, so yeah, it’s sort of insane because so many people, especially British Africans, will say things, but they obviously don’t know where I’m from, and I just find that so funny because they’re butchering my language, which is just funny to me. It’s become like a trend.

I wanted to discuss your final major project. perhaps you could explain a bit about where it originated. I read some information, and it seems to connect with your previous work. Does it draw inspiration from your second year? About a week before my 21st birthday, I had a crisis, questioning, ‘What are you doing with your life?’ At 21, I felt like an actual woman, unlike those transitional years before. I realised I needed a plan and felt uncertain about university, even contemplating dropping out. Then I thought, ‘Just brand yourself!’ When I was sixteen, I had preempted it with the name and everything.

tribute to the world. It seemed like a big idea, but I considered making it my univeristy final major project. In my second year, I developed questions for an immersive experience and sent them out to people. I trialled it, and the amazing responses confirmed it was a viable pursuit for my work.

This has been quite a journey for some time without me really knowing, which is why I truly believe that your future self is speaking to you. You never know where you’ll end up, but I’m the type of person who generally has a feeling that I’ll get there, even if I face crazy dark times and struggle with negative thoughts about myself. I always see the light at the end of the tunnel. So, I I dreamed of creating a di- always perceive a future eleverse arts collective to inte- ment in everything, and I want grate various crafts and con- to bring that into others’ lives.

That’s sort of where saintspelago by OMASAINT originated from. saintpelago by OMASAINT feels a bit like an archipelago. The moment I learned what an archipelago was, I thought, that‘s me, that’s my place. It’s a place I visit in my mind and dream about. If I could escape, I’d want to be on my own island surrounded by others, each representing different art styles and collectives—it would be so cool. Envisioning it as a reality would be amazing. I started small, and now I’m working on my own island feature, the first part of the brand, whichever that may be. It’s going to be fun, though a lot of work, and I believe it will be worth it. It’s been a long time coming.

So what is saintspelago by OMASAINT? What does it stand for? What does it do? I think it's like the heart of people. I do poetry in my spare time and incorporated that in my last term before Christmas, the beginning and experimentation of my final major project. The message is about wanting to save people's essence, especially those feeling stuck and unable to envision a future. I believe everyone has a future, and they just need to find their own way. Many creatives face burnout, but there are ways to improve self-perception and manifest change. I want people to visualise my interpretations of everyday things made complex, which ties into my love for film, cinema, and photography. I'm in the early stages, but it should be fun. I have many ideas, but I need to refine them to understand their truth. Ultimately, I want my brand to be real so that when I apply for jobs, my portfolio conveys my talent. I don't just want to be seen as someone who can run errands—I want to showcase my skills. This project is about advocating for oneself and recognising one's worth and creativity, as everyone is inherently creative.

After university, do you want to continue working on saintspelago? Or what would you like to do? Yeah, so obviously, this part of the project for university purposes is the first sort of birth of the island. Now, I'm at the fashion communication island and stuff like that. I feel like it starts and sort of ends there with this project at university and will probably conclude next term. For future goals, I think I'd like to start creating other islands with different practices and bring that whole art house concept to life by just meeting a load of different creatives who want to get on board. But yeah, I’m still working, but that's my main thing and goal. So, I would like it to develop into an actual brand, yeah. I just hope that with my future income, I can travel to different places, experience various cultural shifts, get the creativity flowing, and continue working on the brand. That sounds quite put together, but I have no idea how that's going to happen.

Photography: Daisy Mermaid Johnson & Oma’s archival images.

100

Lenya Rún Taha Karim, a lawyer and politician from Iceland and Kurdistan, shares her experience growing up in Iceland with Kurdish parents, balancing both cultures. From a young age, she aspired to be a lawyer, leading her into politics. She recalls facing racism as a woman of colour, from childhood to parliament, where scrutiny intensified. Despite challenges, she values Iceland’s diversity and stresses the need for greater empathy, understanding, and representation of foreignborn individuals in politics and society.

101

102

CHILDHOOD Let’s start by talking about your childhood and growing up in Iceland From the age of five, I grew up in Salahverfi (a suburb) in Kópavogur (a town in Iceland), and I was the only immigrant until my little brother, who is two years younger than me, came to primary school. Then I wasn’t the only one. Before that, we lived in Breiðholt (a town in Reykjavík, Iceland) and were in nursery school there. There are a lot of foreigners in Breiðholt, and so in the nursery school, there were just a lot of diverse people, the children were Icelandic, Polish, from Morocco, Egypt, and a thousand different countries, there was so much diversity and multiculturalism. Did your parents live in Iceland for a long time before you were born? Yes, my dad moved here in 1992 or 93 and my mom came in 1996 and I was born in 1999. When you were growing up, did you notice or feel any discrimination towards your parents? I always noticed in primary school that whenever I was speaking Kurdish to my parents, I was always aware that I wasn’t speaking the same lan-

103

guage as everyone else, and I remember there was a whole period, quite a few years, when I refused to speak Kurdish to my parents in public, I was just ashamed because people were always imitating me. I also remember… I started thinking about this back when I was twenty and started to become so aware of this. As I said, we lived in the suburbs, where everyone had it really good, and whenever I went to see my friends, the question I always got from their parents was, ‘What do your parents do?’, ‘When did they come to Iceland?’ Of course, this is just general curiosity, but the more you live and the more you learn, experience, and find out in life, the more you think, where did that thought come from? Was it like, ‘What are you doing in this neighbourhood?’ Or what? I’m not sure. Maybe it was just pure curiosity because, as I say, I never felt the prejudice of adults towards my parents. I wanted to ask you about something you discussed in an episode of Mannflóran regarding belonging. You mentioned how you don’t feel as though you fully belong in either Iceland or Kurdistan. When you were growing up

here in Iceland, did you always feel aware of your differences, or did you feel as though you stood out? I first felt it when I started primary school, for example, when I started practising gymnastics and swimming and stuff like that. Then, I noticed that I was a little different because the kids were always making fun of me. And I think that also explains a lot about how the environment plays a big role in how you see yourself because up until that point when I was six or seven years old, I was just like everyone else, I hadn’t formed this concept of being different. After that, I just became more and more aware of it, just that I’m different. Other than feeling different, did you feel some kind of prejudice growing up? Prejudice and not prejudice, it’s kids being kids, jokes and stuff like that, but the older I got, the more blatant it got, and the more you put yourself out there in the public eye, the more hate you get, that’s just a fact, like there is quite a difference between the racism I got in student politics, versus the racism I got when I went into national politics.

104

105

106

You can’t help but get a little defensive when people doubt that you’re from the place you grew up in.

107

People of foreign origin or those of colour in Iceland often receive questions like, ‘Where are you from?’ or ‘Where are you really from?’ Do you get asked this very often? Most people now know where I’m from, but in the past, yeah, I got it a lot, and it really depended on my mood on how I responded. When I was in a good mood, I really went out of my way to tell the whole story, like ‘Yes, my parents are Kurds...’ but if I was in a bad mood and had been dealing with a lot of microstimuli, I was just ‘I’m from Iceland!’ Do you feel like you always have to prove yourself? Yes, and you can’t help but get a little defensive when people doubt that you’re from the place you grew up in. Also, a good point—I heard this from someone who, like me, is a second-generation immigrant—is that how you define where you are from and where you belong, what community you belong to, is when you go abroad, and you get the question, ‘Where are you from?’ and I always say that I’m from Iceland. When you are asked abroad where you’re from, do people ask anything more when you say you’re from Iceland? Sometimes and sometimes not, sometimes they’re just ‘Uh oh okay, cool’, but everyone thinks it’s so cool that I’m from Iceland. Really, it’s just the biggest flex in the world to say I’m from Iceland.

108

KURDISTAN Let’s delve a bit into your life when you lived in Kurdistan. How did you feel about moving there? Did you find it difficult to adapt?

109

I just couldn’t accept. For example, the attitude towards women and just how submissive women are towards their partners. I’m not saying that this is always like I had a really hard time ad- that everywhere, but this is justing to moving there. Also, just the kind of general attimoving at fourteen years old. tude that is common there. It was an incredibly difficult age, I was just being shaped I just had a ridiculously hard as a person, and I was being time with it, e.g. sometimes shaped by Icelandic socie- people around me, relatives ty. Then I went to Kurdistan, and stuff like that, when the which is quite conservative, women got into fights with and there are all kinds of rules, their husbands. I just always in particular, how girls should said, ‘Divorce!’ and everyone behave, and I just had a re- was just like, ‘Astaghfirulally hard time obeying those lah, you can’t say that obvirules and adapting to their so- ously they are going to work ciety. But because I grew up through it’. And I was just, with Kurdish culture at home, ‘Huh?!...huh?!’ and I’m just growing up with the language still there, and that’s actually and all my family being from a very big reason why I went there, I would say I had a pret- to law school, I saw that many ty easy time adapting to Kurd- women around me, my aunts, istan, but there were just some my mother as well, just get things in the society there that awful behaviour from their

husbands, and it was just somehow so incredibly taboo to divorce. At fourteen years old I was I was always telling them, ‘I’m going to be a lawyer, and I’m going to your divorce lawyer. Aha’. Did you feel like your family and maybe in some way your parents had a different perspective than you on such things? Yes, I think so because my mom and dad grew up in the Kurdish community. It was just like they snapped their fingers and they had already adapted to the culture there, for my younger brother as well, it wasn’t really a problem either, but because I’m a woman, a girl from Europe, it was incredibly difficult.

110

POLITICS AND PARLIAMENT I want to delve deeper into your work in politics and parliament. Why did you choose this path? You mentioned wanting to be a lawyer when you were younger, but what motivated you to enter politics? I’ve always had a plan—a very long plan. When I was fourteen years old, I just realised, okay, I want to fight against injustice in society. How do I do that? Study Law. When I was seventeen years old, I started to form strong political opinions, and one of my teachers told me in college that I could become the prime minister.

ised that the student politics were not representing the diversity in the university, we had approximately four thousand and five hundred exchange and international students, and we were not taking them into account.

Since then, it has always been in the back of my mind, so naturally, I started studying law at the University of Iceland, and I started taking part in student politics there. I real-

Yes, I agree. That’s what’s lacking. We need more voices. Many people in this country aren’t considered. I think if more young individuals heard these stories, it would

111

Then I started to look more broadly and saw in national politics that there are no representatives of an immigrant or people of foreign origin in parliament. 20-25% of Icelandic society are first or second-generation immigrants. So, where is the representation of these people?

inspire them to think, ‘I can do this too’ when they see others like them in these positions. This could make a significant difference. Yes! I’ve said this so many times, even in interviews, and I’ve written this in articles and columns. I entered politics mainly to be the role model I lacked in my youth. Since there was no clear representative of us in the spotlight, I did not see anyone like me anywhere. I started looking at Gabrielle Montez in High School Musical, and I was just ‘she’s like me’ like the girl is Hispanic, and I was just like, ‘She’s like me with dark hair’. Imagine how much it would do for little Lenya or someone ten years younger than me today to see someone visibly in society.

I started to look more broadly and saw in national politics that there are no representatives of an immigrant or people of foreign origin in parliament. 20-25% of Icelandic society are first or second-generation immigrants. So, where is the representation of these people?

112

I entered politics mainly to be the role model I lacked in my youth. Since there was no clear representative of us in the spotlight, I did not see anyone like me anywhere.

113

114

But I also think that... when I was first starting out in politics, I was receiving an awful lot of racism. I was showing people what I was receiving in order to draw attention to what it is that people who are ‘foreign’ like me have to go through when they run for politics. But then I also thought, about a year later, I thought back to it and asked myself, ‘Am I maybe preventing people from going into politics by informing them about what’s going on, and am I maybe just scaring people, especially women of foreign origin?’. I get you. I think it can kind of go both ways for people, either encourage them or not. But it’s also important for Icelanders to know that our society isn’t perfect in terms of racism or discrimination Exactly, there is this question of whether I was scaring people away from participating in politics by showing the racism that I received, and it bothered me for a long time. I was on a panel during the election campaign for UAK - Ungar Athafnakonur (Young Professional Women in Iceland). I was on the panel with two other

women who are first-generation immigrants, Grace Achieng and Fida Abu Libdeh. I was talking about the racism I had been receiving, and I realised in the middle of a sentence, why is the responsibility on me? Why am I taking on the final responsibility for whether people of foreign origin are deterred from participating in politics by informing people about racism in Iceland? The responsibility is on the racists, and the responsibility is on society to improve this attitude towards women, especially women of foreign origin. The responsibility is not on me. And I think that by taking all this hate, because I got so much hate, while I was a substitute member of parliament. I was a goddamn substitute member of parliament. I wasn’t even on salary to deal with that hate, but then I also knew I was going to run again because of this hate that I’m getting now, I’m taking it so that maybe the next person after me may get a little bit less hate. I wanted to ask a bit about UAK, as you mentioned it as well. What is it about, and what were you doing? It’s about women of foreign origin in the Icelandic labour market and what it’s like for us to make our way to it. It was a closed event that everyone could still register for, and it was in English, and it was so incredibly inclusive. It was the first time I participated in an event like this, where I just felt like this safe space.

115

And, as I said, I was in the middle of an election campaign, and I had received so much hate that day. So, when I was on my way to the panel to speak as a foreign woman and about my experiences with racism, I had just received horrible messages that day, death threats from Nazis, like full-on Nazis. So, when I was speaking, I just stopped and said, ‘I’m sorry, but I’ve just had a really bad day’. Then Grace started talking and said to me that as soon as I got into Parliament, she said to her daughter, ‘Look, she can do this. Therefore, you can do it too’. After she said that, I just started crying in front of the whole crowd. The chairperson started crying, and Grace and Vida started crying, too, and we were all just crying together. There was just so much solidarity.

That’s so wonderful to hear. I wanted to enter the labour market a bit as a woman of foreign origin because I read an article about Grace. She discussed how, when she came to Iceland, she had a complete education and learned Icelandic very well, yet it was extremely difficult for her to join the labour market. So, I wanted to ask you, do you think if you were a man in this profession, doing all the same things, you would receive fewer hate messages? I think I would be getting less hate. I felt it, especially during these last elections, after I became a council chairman, how easy it is to hate on women, and I was like the complete package, I was a three-in-one package for people who love to be negative, I’m a woman, I’m young, and I’m foreign, and these three things together in politics, I was just a dream target for people, and I really felt that some things that I did or said, so much attention was drawn to it. When other politicians are not of foreign origin, a man and even a woman did or said the exact same thing in an interview. Nothing happened, and nothing was said or done about it.

116

117

118

119

Why is the responsibility on me? Why am I taking on the final responsibility for whether people of foreign origin are deterred from participating in politics by informing people about racism in Iceland? The responsibility is on the racists, and the responsibility is on society to improve this attitude towards women, especially women of foreign origin. The responsibility is not on me.

120

Do you think they are hating and attacking you more as a person rather than where you stand in politics? Do you think maybe if you were in the Independence Party or any conservative political party, do you think you would get as much hate and horrible messages? No, I don’t think so, because of the support the Independence party has, they have this kind of support and support within the party as well. I don’t think I would receive as much hate, but I think I would receive it, and receiving hate is just a part of being a woman in politics, let alone being a woman of foreign origin. I have also noticed that very often when people are attacking me so much on the internet and just bullying me, then when I meet them in person, we have one conversation, and they’re just like in a bit of a shock and say, ‘Oh, you’re quite normal and have quite normal views’, especially the rightwing guys. For example, there was this extreme right-wing guy, who I had had a conversation with, and then when I got hate after an interview I did where I was asked how high the fishing fees were, and it looked like I didn’t know, and it just went viral. And that right-wing guy posted on Facebook and was defending me. This has happened a lot with right-wing guys like that.

121

I believe this is merely an idea that people conjure up in their minds. They see something or someone who isn’t white and then fabricate some wild notion. It’s just… I really don’t understand it. I’ve noticed too, and everyone who is on Twitter or the app X has noticed it as well. A right-wing socie-

ty has formed there, where actual Nazis gather under both anonymous accounts and real names. It has become so normalised, especially on this platform, to be a right-wing nutter who hates immigrants. They primarily speak out against immigrants who are brown and from Middle Eastern countries. They automatically assume that I’m some mad-loving Muslim, which I’m not. I’m not even registered with the religious association here in Iceland. However, they’ve made up their minds that I’m pro-Sharia law, I’ve been told repeatedly, ‘You want to implement Sharia law in Iceland’. I’m just like, ‘Bro, I lived in Kurdistan where Sharia laws don’t even exist, and my family is very liberal, they are completely anti-Islam but still not entirely pro-Icelandic culture.’ That’s awful. What are your thoughts on all these right-wing waves that have been emerging recently? Where do you think this is stemming from, and why is this happening? What do you think? I think it’s a combination of several factors, for example, migration has been significant in recent years because certain regions of the world have become destabilised, particularly the Middle East. However, Western countries, especially the United States, play a substantial role in destabilising these nations by promoting wars and supporting them with arms shipments and military aid. There is a significant exodus from these countries coming into our society, and most of these Western nations are already struggling to strengthen their infrastructure by

providing good living conditions for people, even if the living conditions here in Iceland are relatively decent. Additionally, there is a certain instability in society that has persisted these last few years, such as COVID-19 and the incredibly high inflation, especially here in Iceland. It becomes rather convenient to find a scapegoat, and who fits the bill? It’s these “fucking foreigners” fleeing the wars that we continue to support in their home countries. This phenomenon occurred after 9/11 as well, making it all too convenient to pinpoint one “bad guy” to combat and blame for everything. While we discuss our borders in Iceland being uncontrolled, the reality is they are not. We are part of the Schengen agreement, and they remain under control. Yes, there are a few bad apples among immigrants who come here and exploit the system, but assuming that everyone belongs to this group puts us in a rather precarious position as a society. I believe it’s fear—fear of the future—given the various changes happening since COVID-19, something has shifted. Some people may not view this as an issue now, but we are confronted with AI, which is emerging quite forcefully. People are genuinely frightened about their living conditions, it is already tough to make ends meet, and it’s challenging to see the bigger picture. If we encourage savings in the state treasury or start managing money better, perhaps it wouldn’t be so extraordinarily dire for everyone in Iceland or the UK.

122

You mentioned the Middle East, and I find it strange how different the responses are to conflicts involving Ukraine and Russia versus those in the Middle East. When Russia invaded Ukraine, Western nations welcomed Ukrainians, but the same isn’t true for Palestinians The thing is, I also mentioned this in 2023, after the 7th of October, following Israel’s response. It has become normalised to witness the deaths of brown people, and tragedies affecting brown people have been normalised. Western media, Hollywood, and the discussions within our societies, along with how country leaders speak, have normalised this situation to such an extent that we have grown apathetic towards the suffering of brown people, Arabs, and others like them. But I also think that what’s happening over there, there is some kind of real conspiracy going on with this. It is definitely much deeper than we realise, and the hold that Israel has on the Western world is not normal. I wanted to ask you a bit more about the history of Kurdistan. Can you tell me a bit about it? Kurdistan existed as a country for a brief period after the First World War. Conflicts over the

123

Would you consider it a rather conservative country still? Do they hold somewhat outdated opinions compared to Western societies? I would definitely say that it’s quite old-fashioned, but it’s not necessarily a religious society. However, the culture there has naturally been shaped significantly by religion. For instance, my family on my mum’s side are practically godless and quite dangerously atheist, yet they But does Kurdistan have any are still rather conservative by our standards. For example, control of its own? Yes, in Iraq, where I’m from, they if you’re a woman, you simply have a republic, and we have have to behave in a certain way. our own government and our I believe that the more trageown president. dies countries endure, the more they gravitate towards separaIs the national religion Islam? Yes, that’s the most common tist conservatism and Islam. My religion, followed by other reli- mother recounts that before the gions that are also quite prev- Iran-Iraq war, which lasted from alent, such as Yezidism and 1980 to 1988, she grew up in the Zoroastrianism, as well as Chris- countryside, specifically in a tianity, which is a significant city called Halabja, which was reason why sometimes West- subjected to chemical bombern countries support us, as ing by Saddam. In those days, they perceive us to be a Chris- she wore short skirts and outtian state. In fact, a conserva- fits that exposed her shoulders. tive politician in Iceland, who is Baghdad, the capital of Iraq, also a prominent church figure, was an incredibly free state. became a key advocate for my Only after enduring the devasproposal, which I presented in tation that followed did things parliament, to recognise Anfal change. Today, the majority of as genocide against the Kurds. women in her hometown wear He has spoken about the Kurds hijabs and pray five times a day. previously, yet he remains quite anti-Islam and anti-immigrant in his views. region have always persisted, as it spans four nations and is rich in oil resources. No one is willing to grant us independence, as numerous interests are at stake for many countries. This involves not only the neighbouring nations of Iran, Syria, Turkey, and Iraq, but also the United States, which has been actively preventing our quest for independence. Nonetheless, it remains a stateless region.

124

Most of the time, politicians don’t listen when opposition MPs raise their concerns and explain their votes. But then, when everyone changed their votes, I thought, ‘Wow, I had never seen that happen’. Wow, that’s so great. Do you feel any hostility, prejudice, or racism in Parliament?

I wanted to discuss more about your work in politics and your time in parliament. You have been in parliament for several weeks at a time. How do you feel about it? Is this something you want to do or continue doing? Yes, it is something I want to pursue, but when I entered the situation, as I was quite young, I had many ideas about how I affect change and do good things. It was then that I realised this is simply not how it works, it is not that straightforward. We have built a society with numerous bottlenecks, particularly the Independence Party, which has been in pow-

125

er for the last fifty years. They seem to be constructing society in such a way that it is incredibly difficult to bring about change, especially as a substitute member of parliament in the opposition. Furthermore, the more time I spent in parliament, the more I realised how commonplace it is for parliamentarians to neglect their responsibilities. It is typical for them not to review any materials prior to committee meetings, and it has become standard for parliamentarians to refrain from engaging in discussions. During voting sessions, which involve deliberations with other

parliamentary parties, there is a setup in parliament where everyone simply looks to the parliamentary party leader to see how they vote, and they vote in accordance with that. I particularly remember a specific topic where everyone was voting along. Then I stepped up to the platform, had only a minute to argue against it, and voted no. After that, the four most conservative members of the Independence Party changed their votes, and one woman from that party also changed her vote after hearing my argument against it. They just hadn’t read about it.

Oh yes, some people there underestimate me so much. At committee meetings and similar occasions, especially when it comes to discussing challenging issues, the fact is, I specialise in energy law, and Icelandic men tend to have a strong opinion about energy matters, thinking they are the best at it. So, I attended a committee meeting and started speaking, and I recall a member of the Independence Party saying... ‘She’s really impressive’, and then I remember participating in a debate in parliament regarding electricity issues. A member of parliament from the Independence Party approached me, intending to try to outdo me, and I countered him with facts. He responded so poorly in his next reply, at a loss for words, I’m just never expected to actually know anything.

Yeah, but I was also quite defiant. I regret it a little now, but I was very rebellious in parliament, especially after being there for a long time. My attire was quite provoking, I always tested the limits of my fashion choices until the Speaker of the Althing (Icelandic parliament) admonished me. At one point, a member of parliament commented to the head of the Parliament office, who simply remarked, ‘You’re not going to say anything to her?’ and the response was, ‘No, I’m not going to say anything to a member of the Pirate Party’ (political party Lenya is a part of).

At least this succeeded in provoking reactions, I think due to my youth, I managed to get away with things that others couldn’t in Parliament. Breaking the record as the youngest member of parliament in Iceland’s history and having to be a lawyer. I’ve had quite a few jobs and even worked in various institutions, like in Luxembourg, and I secured a position at ESA in Brussels when I was 24 years old. I was meant to relocate there. I’m supposed to be living there now based on the contract I signed. Reflecting on what I’ve been We really do need more young doing for the past year, I’ve people in Parliament, don’t been pushing myself, buildwe? ing my career and success

at an incredibly young age. I believe this stems from a sort of second-generation immigrant overachiever complex, feeling the need to stand on equal footing with someone my age who is a native Icelander. Therefore, I find it essential to excel. I must achieve at least three times more than the next person beside me to be regarded as their equal. This is just what I grew up with, and that’s why I feel the need to do more. I’m not achieving anything, I’ve been so depressed since the election ended because we (the Pirate Party) didn’t get into Parliament, and I keep thinking, ‘I’m a failure. I haven’t accomplished anything in my life’. Then, I looked at my CV the other day and thought, ‘It’s actually quite good’. You really are your own greatest and harshest critic. Even if you do something perfectly, you still think, ‘I could have done it better’.

126

I believe this stems from a sort of second generation immigrant overachiever complex, feeling the need to stand on equal footing with someone my age who is a native Icelander. Therefore, I find it essential to excel. I must achieve at least three times more than the next person beside me to be regarded as their equal.

127

128

FASHION Has fashion and Icelandic or Kurdish culture influenced you and your identity in terms of clothing, hair, nails, or accessories? If so, how? Yes, I’ve been straightening my hair since I was 11 years old. On top of that, I’m really bad at eating and just really bad at nourishing myself. In 2022, I was hospitalised for a diet and everything, and I just noticed that my hair had only two or three strands because I was always straightening it. I always felt like I was only professional when I had it straight, and then in 2023, I started to embrace my natural hair and my curls. It’s even mild now, but I really have crazy curls. I was always so incredibly insecure about it. Even in 2023, when I was embracing my curls and stuff, I still always had straight hair in Parliament, in interviews and in the public eye in general. The first time I wore my natural hair to an interview, it was during the last election campaign, and I got so many compliments for it, and then I

129

thought, okay, maybe my nat- ing a girlish conservatism that ural hair is just alright. aligned with office wear and business casual. However, afI first started dyeing my hair ter entering politics, I began in 2020. I got some very light to experiment more, venting highlights, and gradually, with out, which had eluded me beeach hair salon session, I al- fore when I moved to Kurdisways went lighter and lighter. I tan and returned to Iceland by think it stemmed from a desire dressing a bit more provocato feel more like I belonged. tively. Nonetheless, during Last October, when I went this last election campaign, I again, I decided I was totally somewhat relinquished my atwilling to go a little darker at tempts to challenge my cloththe roots to look more natural. ing style and began to dress in a manner that makes me Last summer, I was complete- feel my best, often opting for ly blonde, you may have seen something neck high. pictures of me at graduation. I just asked for a really light My style fluctuates, and if you colour, hoping to fit in some- had asked me two or three how. However, I believe this is years ago whether I envisioned changing. I never receive any graduating in traditional Kurdnegative comments when I ish attire, my response would wear my curls out, but I think have been a definitive ‘No way, that’s also because I tend to never’. Yet, I chose the Kurdlook quite “white passing”, an- ish national attire because it yway. was the very motivation that propelled me to complete With regard to clothing style, this damned master’s degree the culture at home in Kurd- on time at just twenty-four, istan has significantly influ- despite enduring significant enced my fashion choices here illness, two hospitalisations, in Iceland in fluctuations. For a and an astonishing amount of long time, my style was rela- trauma here and there. tively conservative, embody-

130

My Kurdish grandmother was the reason. She didn’t get a chance to get an education, she was 14 years old when she got married and never went to school, she implemented the rule in our family that you always need the permission of all elders before you can get married, you always have to offer your hand to them. Her rule was ‘No one in this family can get married until they have one university degree, at least one’. This was just so incredibly forwardthinking for Kurds. She did everything, my family, especially my mother’s family, just did everything that was considered really taboo and even “prostitute-like” in order to be able to send her daughters to education. My mother went to the best university in Iraq, not in Kurdistan, Iraq, she went alone and lived in dorms and sister her too, away from their family, and it was also a time when there was an embargo on Iraq because Saddam former president of Iraq screwed up, and everybody got poor, but my family always managed to scrape together a monthly amount of money to send to their daughters when they were in college, so they could finish their education. My culture has played so much into why I wanted to get an education and finish this degree, and I also want a doctoral degree. By wearing the Kurdish national attire, I wanted to contribute something back, I wanted to have something with me on the stage when I received my degree.

131

132

My culture has played so much into why I wanted to get an education and finish this degree, and I also want a doctoral degree. By wearing the Kurdish national attire, I wanted to contribute something back, I wanted to have something with me on the stage when I received my degree.

133

134

135

136

Photography: Lenya’s archival images.

AWARENESS CELEBRATION

EQUITY HERITAGE

COMMUNITY LANGUAGE CULTURE JUSTICE DIVERSITY MULTIEDUCATION CULTURALISM EMPATHY STORYTELLING ETHNICITY REPRESENTATION EQUALITY EXPRESSION 137

137

MEÐVITUN

SANNGIRNI

FÖGNUÐUR FÉLAG

ERFÐ TUNGUMÁL

MENNING

INCLUSIVITY

FJÖLBREYTILEIKI KENNSLA SAMÚÐ SAMÚÐ

RÉTTLÆTI

FJÖLMENNING FRÁSAGNARLIST

ÞJÓÐERNI JÖFNUÐUR

SÝNILEIKI TJÁNING

138

Danielle Saldanha, a young woman and international student from India, is in her third year studying Fashion Branding and Communication at Arts University Bournemouth. She reflects on cultural differences between India and the UK, including her work experience in India and the impact of colonial mindsets. For her final project, Nana’s House, Dani focuses on a minority community she belongs to, aiming to educate others about various minority groups in India and celebrate their cultures.

139

140

141

Let’s start with where you’re from and where you grew up I grew up in southern India. I wouldn’t say I’m from all over the place, but I’ve moved around a lot. My mum is from Mumbai, which is in western India, and my dad is from the southwest. So, we’re not ethnically Southern Indian, but we live in South India. I’m mentioning this because India is very diverse, and I don’t speak the language of the South. I grew up speaking English as I was raised in a very westernised home. However, that isn’t the case for everyone. I grew up in a city called Chennai, formerly known as Madras. So the place where my mum

is from, Mumbai, they speak Hindi. Technically, my mother tongue would be Marathi, and in the place where I lived, Chennai, they speak Tamil. However, both of my parents grew up in English-speaking homes. So they never had the languages themselves to pass down. I can speak a little bit of Hindi and Tamil just to get by, barely, like when I’m on public transport or things like that. But I can’t hold a conversation.

mall, a restaurant or a café, you’d probably speak in English. However, if you go to local shops, it varies. In India, for example, we all attend English medium schools, so we learn in English unless we go to government schools.

Here in the UK, the concept of private and public schools creates a notable divide, and private schools are often seen as posh. In India, however, most people who live in cities In public, do people general- in India attend private schools. ly speak English when they go to the shop or something similar? It depends on where you go. For instance, if you visit a

142

to Catholicism. Both my parents are Catholic, and our ancestors were converted by the Portuguese, tracing back to the 16th century.

INDIA I find the project you’re working on at University very interesting, and I looked up the Indo-Portuguese Catholic community, which your project revolves around. Is that where you grew up? That’s where my mum grew up. So, my grandparents still live there, and I visit Mumbai about twice a year if I’m lucky. However, when I was younger, I would go every summer holiday. My mum has kept the culture alive because it was very important to her, and growing up outside the community made me realise just how little others knew about us. This understanding, as both an insider and an outsider, is why I’m doing the project. My dad is also from a similar community, but it’s a bit further south. Religion plays a significant role in this context. My family isn’t particularly religious, but the culture is deeply rooted in religion due to the conversion

143

So the Portuguese came, and it’s like how people know about colonisation in India. They typically associate it with the British due to their significant influence. However, prior to the British, there were the Dutch and the Portuguese, who established various settlements in different regions, and after the British came the French. For instance, in South India, there’s a place called Pondicherry, which boasts a strong French influence because the French arrived at that port, eventually settled there, and integrated with the local community. If you visit, it feels very much influenced by French culture. Similarly, the Portuguese arrived on the western coast of India, initially stopping in a place called Kerala. But Goa, which is a small city in India. It’s quite popular among Indians for its beautiful beaches, which are heavily influenced by Portuguese culture. This region was part of Portuguese colonies for over 400 years. Even after India gained independence from Britain, Goa remained under Portuguese rule for some time. So, while most of India had become free, Goa was still managed by the Portuguese. If people are familiar with the Portuguese in India, they generally associate them with Goa. However, there is also a notable Portuguese influence in Mumbai, as it is coastal too.

144

Even the sari is worn in every state in India, we have 28 states. Every state drapes it differently, and every community has its own way of draping it. This was historically their way of distinguishing themselves from one another. Now, people just wear the same drape because the sari is simply a long piece of fabric, it’s not stitched at all. You have to wrap the fabric in a certain way, and it’s about six yards long. So it’s unstitched. There used to be different ways of draping it, as it is just one long piece of fabric. So, if you see a sari today, it resembles the modern drape that gained popularity during the freedom movement when

145

What is life like in India now? It’s such a vast country. Are there many diverse cultures, and is it different when you visit various places? It’s so different. It’s so diverse that it’s really difficult to explain to people. The majority is Hindu, but even within Hinduism, there are differences. You have North India and South India, which are very heavily divided, we are brought up very differently. Then you have the East and the West, but it’s mostly just divided by North and South. You also have the Northeast Indians, who are rarely represented because they look different, they are often forgotten. They still have very tribal, indigenous cultures, and they belong to different tribes. Their traditional attire is different from ours, but they are still Indians. E

we were fighting for independence. There was a sentiment to all wear something similar to demonstrate our unity. So, if someone were to wear a sari now, moat likely they’re going to wear that. So that is now the most common one. You’ll very rarely find people wearing their traditional ones. I feel like it’s just for special events when people wear them.

146

Do you have a traditional sari from the community you’re from? Yes, we have one. That’s the thing because we were converted, people assume that we are very Western because we listen to English music, and we were, like, historically, one of the first few to adopt Western clothing and things like that. So they just sort of assume that we are... they would make passing comments about us being very Western in terms of trying to worship the West. But that’s not the case.

147

We do have a sari, so in the west, in Mumbai, which is in the state of Maharashtra, we wear a sari that is nine yards long instead of six yards. So it’s really long. And they drape it where they make trousers with the sari. So the normal sari is like a long skirt. In Maharashtra, we put it through our legs, so when you look at it, it resembles puffy trousers. This style originates from individuals such as farmers or fisherwomen, who needed to be able to move freely in their clothing, which is why we wear it. In our community, we have specific types of checked patterns and wear only certain colours. For instance, if you are from the agricultural community, you would wear rosy pink, whereas those from a different community would wear a different colour.

148

Are both the places you grew up and where you’re parents grew up rather Westernised? The thing to understand now is that the West has this one idea of India, where it’s seen as a third-world country with poverty and such. While to an extent that is true, that is not the only version of India. I mean, if I’m able to come to a different country to study, then obviously, there have been means for me to do so. I’m fortunate to come from a family and background that has provided opportunities like being able to go and study abroad. I’m aware of the privilege - I know not everyone has it. The India the media portrays is a generalisation. While it is not completely false or inaccurate, it isn’t true of the whole nation. The India I know is modern and constantly evolving. People talk in lots of different regional languages, but also English. We wear Western clothing. For many, Traditional attire is reserved for special occasions. For others, they might switch between Indian and Western clothing as they see fit. There are no set rules. My mum works in a school, so she wears more casual Indian wear when she goes to work, as that’s the norm for teachers in India. However, when she meets her friends, she opts for jeans and a shirt or a dress. And so do all my other friends’ mums as well. I was interested in how you described your project at university. You mentioned ‘Exploring the many minority communities that live in India and celebrate their respective cultures within their overarching “Indianess”.’ Could you explain that a bit more? My perspective is that my community is just one among many minority communities. For example, the northeast region that I mentioned is, in a way, a minority community because they are often overlooked and constitute a much smaller group compared to other parts of India. Furthermore, there are many Muslims in India, but within the Muslim community, there are various different groups. So, how we have different types of Muslims and different types of Christians based on where they’re from. We have people called Parsis, they come from Iran. They were refugees from there, and they came to India.

149

We have all these smaller communities that people are unaware of because they are more often left out of mainstream media because that are much fewer of them compared to the other population. So, yes, this was my idea, if I publish bi-annually, this would be my first book, and the next one would focus on a different minority community as a means to create publications that educate people about all the various communities. In the long run, I want this to be a project that expands into something nationally because there there’s so many minority groups in India, and there are obviously so many others, like everywhere else. So this could just be a way for all of us to like, sort of change our understanding of just viewing a country of just one idea.

150

That’s where I am coming from. I have friends from all different religions, communities, and groups, and I’ve always been fascinated to learn more about them. So, when you witness so much hatred directed at a particular community, it really upsets me. You must actually know people before making generalisations.

151

152

153

154

LIFE IN THE UK Let’s move on to the UK, tell me how you ended up here in Bournemouth I feel almost ashamed to admit that when we were growing up, we sort of idealised the West because we saw it in movies and TV shows. Um, I think it’s just the colonial mindset where you sort of think, ‘Oh, why would you want to live in India? The West is just so much better’. So, I always knew I wanted to study abroad, and I was fortunate enough to have parents who were willing to send me. Almost everyone I know from boarding school is studying outside India, yet among my childhood friends, only one other studies abroad, while the rest are in India. The education system in India is really tough. For instance, we have really stringent engineering colleges in India, where you have to achieve above 98% out of 100 to even be considered. So, it’s like a whole different ball game, it’s not that higher education isn’t good. It is really good. It’s just the method of teaching, they place a lot of stress on grades and doing

155

things a certain way. Obviously, I wanted to pursue something creative, for example, there’s a really good fashion university in India, ranking among the top ten in the world. However, you have to take an entrance exam to gain admission. I was quite opposed to this because I don’t believe you can judge creatives solely by how they answer an exam. Teaching methods differ significantly. Before my boarding school experience in India, school was challenging due to a rigid education system with predetermined answers for marks. In contrast, my boarding school, which offered IB (the International Baccalaureate), emphasised understanding over correct answers, aligning better with my learning style. I improved significantly there. Studying abroad opened my eyes to an educational system that fosters creativity. I always wanted to study abroad, but I’ve realised it isn’t all that great. So why did you choose Arts University Bournemouth? To be completely honest, I wanted to study at UAL (University of the Arts London).

Three out of my five courses were at UAL, while Bournemouth was my other option, making it my second choice. However, I don’t know if it’s just an Indian thing or an international issue, but all the people I know from India who study at UAL had to complete a foundation course; they simply wouldn’t let you join unless you did one, and obviously, the international fees come into play. I think their foundation tuition price was higher than AUB’s undergraduate fees. I’m glad I chose AUB because I enjoy the atmosphere on the campus, and I feel I would have gotten lost in all the chaos of London. You’ve been living in the UK for quite some time now. Do you feel, in a sense, that the UK is somewhat your home as well? It’s really sad. I’ve not thought of the UK as my home at all. When I went back to India for Christmas, I had a great time, but by the time January came, I was looking forward to returning—not to Bournemouth, but to continue my project. It’s sad that I don’t consider the UK my home, but I feel that having gone to boarding school,

the longer I stayed away, the less home felt like home. It sort of starts becoming a thing where you don’t really know what your home is anymore, it’s just about the people. When I meet friends from boarding school in London, I think, ‘Oh yeah, this feels nice’, and when I meet my friends from back home, it feels nice too. But the reality is I can’t consider Chennai where I live, as home anymore either because all my friends are studying abroad, and we’re all going to graduate soon, with none of Did you visit the UK before you moved? Yeah, I did, I think it was in 2015 with my mum to see my aunt, and I had been once when I was about two years old. So I've been before, but not like this. I wasn't ready for how depressing the weather would be in comparison to India. I think coming here has really made me realise. It's made me appreciate where I'm from so much more, which is why I talk about it in all my projects because it has now become my source of inspiration. It's just the small things that you overlook because you think they're normal. Yes, I've certainly noticed that since I moved myself, I didn't appreciate home enough Yeah, literally, and then you come here, and you realise, wow, they don't do things here like they do back home. What do you think about the cultural aspects of coming to the UK? Was it hard to adjust to some things? Um, yeah, I think so, I mean,

there was definitely a culture shock. I don't think I expected it because we've grown up in a very Western way. In school, we knew about everything, maybe not niche British things, but you know, we were aware of British rappers. The guys at school would use British slang, and yeah, we watched the same TV shows and movies. Pop culture-wise, there's not much that you miss because we grew up with the same things. But I don't know. It sounds so bad, but coming to the UK, I just realised how drastically different the culture is from India. I can't say it's a Western thing because, obviously, there are so many different countries in the West.

shooting happens in the US, it’s worldwide news. Yet, significant events occur in countries like India, such as a horrific rape case and protests that barely received attention here, despite involving a doctor’s murder. This indifference highlights their sense of superiority since colonisation.

Does India have divided social classes? I feel like that’s everywhere. At least, the way I see it is that it really just reflects how you’re brought up. For example, another aspect of India is that most households have domestic help, and I don’t mean just the wealthy—most households will have a cook and a cleaner. Here, they might be I believe coming here has been considered like nannies, and such a reality check because, they are paid exceptionally for so long, I had imagined it well. differently. I don't regret coming because now I know what It’s quite strange, which is the it's truly like. I feel that if I had thing. You hear so much about studied in India, I would still India, this and that, but you live be thinking, ‘Oh, I want to go a very comfortable life when abroad, it must be so much you’re back home, which is better there’. The grass always something many Indian interappears greener on the other national students joke about side. But now that I've experi- because here in the UK, you enced it, I'm like, okay, I know have to do things on your own. I’ve done it. If I want to go However, when you grow up back, I can. there, you have people around Yes, definitely, I feel as though you. I have a different vision of the world, or as I've experienced But again, it is really dependliving somewhere else, you ent on how you were raised. just have a different view on My parents have always taught things us to be respectful to everyYes, it frustrates me because one since I was quite young. we grow up immersed in So, my relationship with our Western pop culture, espe- household helps is that when cially American news. We’re I see them upon returning aware of even the smallest home, I go and give them a events. Upon arriving here, I hug. My dad even helps with realised they’re largely indifferent to Eastern occurrences. For example, when a school

156

nana

Let’s delve a little deeper into your project and its connection to your family, as it is called Nana’s House. Where did that come from? You mentioned that your inspirations stem from back home and such, but where did that idea originate? So it came from my visit to my Nana, as we would obviously go to Mumbai to see them. I was much closer to my granddad when I was younger, he was brilliant with children. Also, he’s blind, so his way of connecting with us was telling us stories and listening to us talk. He always had a recorder with him to capture our voices, which was really cute. When I was younger, my grandma was the stricter one, and there was a very clear elder-younger sort of relationship that felt serious.

157

grandpa However, as I grew older, my granddad became grumpier, and my grandma started to behave more like a child. She has dementia, which makes her remember a lot from the past, but she struggles with the present. This vulnerability made her more endearing, my mum and I often talk about her because it’s like looking at a toddler. She smiles and talks like a child, and you just want to hug her. I feel she lost the barrier that restricted our relationship, and now I’m much closer to her. I really enjoy connecting with my grandparents, and they both share fascinating stories about their lives, as they have lived incredibly interesting lives. I plan to include that in my book. So, when I was pondering what my final project would be, I knew I wanted to relate it to India. However, I didn’t want

to create yet another generic celebration of India, as I know many Indian students come here and experience similar feelings, they often seek to explore that comfort with their culture, which is entirely valid. Then I realised that no one knows about this aspect of my life, and it is genuinely intriguing. My grandparents live in a wellknown suburb of Mumbai called Bandra, where real estate has skyrocketed due to its popularity among celebrities. Many Bollywood actors and actresses reside there, making it a prime location to live. Bandra has evolved into a place where anyone who becomes wealthy seems to gravitate. Previously, Bandra was filled with charming bungalows and had an almost village-like feel, being situated by the coast and sharing a relationship with the fishing community that still resides there.

However, these residents are ageing, and their children have moved abroad, leaving them unable to maintain their bungalows. Consequently, housing societies and developers have bought the properties, resulting in the redevelopment of the area into massive apartment blocks. Many love Bandra, yet its charm is fading due to the construction of unattractive buildings. Part of my motivation for this project is to create an archive of what once was, as I cherish going back there, feeling as though time stands still. It was a space for slow living, nestled within a bustling urban city, yet these neighbourhoods felt idyllic. So, this is my way of documenting and preserving that in some manner.

158

159

grandparents’ wedding

160

You mentioned that you experience a lot of the culture from your community in India, even though you live in a more Western part, and your parents played a significant role in showing you your culture and influences Yeah, definitely. I feel like we still have culture, and it’s something I truly appreciate and what I’m also planning to do. When we were growing up, my mum told us stories about our own religion and culture, but she also shared tales about festivals of other religions. For instance, Diwali is widely celebrated in India, so for any Hindu festival, my mum made sure we knew the story behind each of them. The same goes for any of the Muslim festivals as well. She would educate us on all of it, and I believe it really comes down to being fortunate enough to be raised this way. It has definitely shaped how I perceive the world, especially since I’ve encountered people who have made truly horrible remarks about various communities. Some of my very good friends are Muslims, while others are Hindus, and I also have Christian friends. During Ramadan, when they are fasting, some friends invite us over to break the fast with them, so we go to their house. There, we learn more about their traditions. For Diwali, our Hindu friends will invite us to their homes as well. It’s lovely, but again, not everyone is like that, some are more conservative than others. I’ve just been fortunate enough.

161

Do you have any more religious communities in India? Yes, some people simply don’t believe in any religion. I also have a friend who belongs to another minority group called the Coorgis. They hail from a small place in South India known as Coorg, which is another hill station where everyone owns coffee estates. It’s set in the hills, and these large estates are typically passed down to the sons of the family. My friend comes from one of those families, and they don’t adhere to any religion, instead, they worship nature. I find that

quite interesting. Their culture is very different as well. I mean, if you live in the south, you might be aware of the Coorgis, as there aren’t many schools in the hills, so they tend to migrate to the neighbouring cities. However, if you live anywhere else, you may never have heard of them. They also possess a very distinct culture and have a unique way of wearing the sari.

162

163

164

FASHION Why did you want to go into fashion? I genuinely don’t know. I’ve always been very, very creative. I tend to engage in hands-on activities, like crafting cards rather than drawing. I used to love creating these projects, you know, those things on YouTube where you could make paper boxes that opened up. I was really into making things instead of drawing because I don’t think I’m particularly good at it. So, I always recognised my creativity and wanted to pursue something artistic, but I wasn’t sure what. I still can’t pinpoint where my interest in fashion originated from.

165

When I was younger, I was quite obsessed with weddings and dreamed of being a wedding dress designer. I had books where I would sketch out wedding dresses, I was truly captivated by weddings. Then I thought, oh, I want to be a fashion designer, but somehow that idea never felt quite right.

Eventually, I began exploring all the other avenues within fashion, and I thought, oh, this aligns much better with what I want to do. I’ve always maintained an interest in looking at collections and stuff like that. That has always been really important to me. I used to really enjoy discovering new collections, which I still do now. I think that’s what sparked my interest, just learning. I wanted to ask about your fashion internships, were they in India? I spent two months in India with designer Rahul Mishra. I talk about it now as if it’s no big deal, but actually, I really should appreciate it more because he was my favourite designer before I got the internship, so it was genuinely a dream opportunity. I’ve done two internships with prominent Indian designers, both incredible experiences. However, as I gain real-life experience in fashion, I find I’m less interested in it. I idolised fashion

for so long, but the reality has diminished my enthusiasm. Now, when people ask about my job preferences, I genuinely don’t know. If asked at the start of university, I’d have said any job in fashion, but now I’d consider opportunities beyond it. What about the other internship? That was the end of my first year. I’ve done internships every summer, but the two recent ones were significant. They were valuable experiences, though I questioned if they were too luxurious for my taste. The latest hurt more as it was with my favourite designer. After what I thought would be a dream job, I realised it wasn’t. I finished both internships feeling exhausted from the intense pace. I’m unsure if I can sustain that long-term.

166

Is the fashion industry really big in India? It is, but not in the same way it is here in the UK. Indian luxury designers are considered luxury designers because they specialise in bridal wear. Therefore, it’s very rarely ready-to-wear, and when it is, it tends to be quite poor. The renowned designers create traditional Indian attire that is characterised by heavy beadwork and embroidery, primarily worn by brides. It’s a completely different ball game, as their entire client base consists solely of brides, one wouldn’t buy their garments for a dinner outing. Thus, it differs in that regard. It appeals to a vastly different audience. Additionally, fashion campaigns tend to be repetitive, as they predominantly focus on traditional styles. Are the designs also influenced by cultures in India? Yes, I would say it’s all very, very conventionally Indian. I’m not quite sure how to explain it. I don’t know of any Indian designers who create white wedding gowns, you would probably need to have that made elsewhere. I really don’t know anyone who would make it. It’s simply all Indian wear. I genuinely can’t find the words to express it. It’s just bridal wear, that’s literally all it is. In fashion shows and similar events, you see these incredibly dressed-up people. Weddings generate a substantial amount of money in India through clothing, food, music, and décor. It’s a very large industry, as people spend immense amounts on their weddings. A small wedding would consist of around 500 guests.

167

How have fashion and culture, both back home and here, affected your identity, including your clothes, hair, accessories, and so on? I think my Indian culture has made me favour colours a lot more. I always like to ensure that something is colourful, and I much prefer an overly colourful outfit to an all-black one, which is just my opinion. If I reflect on it, I believe this stems from how colourful my life was while growing up back home. One of the biggest culture shocks I experienced when I arrived here was how your eyes adjust to so much colour, there, everything is vibrant. In contrast, here, everything is much more organised, fitting neatly into a box. I think my way of dressing communicates who I am, and I feel happy when wearing colour. Even if I opt for an allblack outfit, I must accessorise with colourful bangles or a vibrant necklace. I just need that one element of colour because I honestly feel it boosts my mood. If I had to consider it further, I'd say it ties back to that. I feel bit unsure about my style, I wouldn't say it’s bohemian, but it does lean towards something tropical. I’m not a fan of this weather and am really waiting for it to get warmer so I can flaunt all my summer outfits. Jewellery is also significant in India, where people prefer gold-plated items. Stores offer heavy jewellery for formal events, while popular street junk jewellery is cheap and accessible. Though it doesn't last long, it looks nice and provides a thrifting experience of finding unique pieces. Most of my jewellery is inexpensive and from local markets.

168

NANA’S HOUSE If we go back to your university project, Nana’s house, how do you feel about it? This week, I feel as though I haven’t accomplished much. However, I also recognise that I’m a bit of a perfectionist. So I’m trying to, well, calm down. At the end of the day, I genuinely enjoy what I’m doing because it’s a project I want to pursue. Therefore, I’m excited to rise in the morning, come to the library, and work, which is lovely. But I must admit, I’m eager to see how it all turns out. However, I hope I can communicate effectively, as I have quite a bit to explain to someone who knows nothing about it. Well, that’s the situation regardless, so I do hope I’m fulfilling my role properly.

169

In a brief statement, what would you say you are trying to convey with this project or what you are attempting to show? I’m trying to encapsulate the culture that I’m from and like the sort of visual aesthetic that so many people in India are so fond of. I’m trying to share it with people as a way to archive and document a culture that I don’t know how long will be able to sustain this life. And as a way to just sort of encourage people to learn more about different cultures, be-

cause I have enjoyed learning about more cultures. What kind of content is going to be in your publication? I aim for it to be more visually heavy than text. I want the visuals to communicate more effectively. I have conducted interviews with people from the community who have pursued something creatively fulfilling. It’s quite nice because I discovered that all those I interviewed have some sort of creative outlet, and I’m documenting how we are a community of creatives. I believe that India is stereotypically seen, and indeed experiences, a prioritisation of education and high-paying jobs over the enjoyment of what one does. However, I feel that the community I come from has always embraced a more laid-back lifestyle. While they may not be the wealthiest, they are rich in the sense that they have led very fulfilling lives. Therefore, I am trying to share this perspective with others and encourage it to serve as an alternative to the fast-paced life towards which we seem to be gravitating. Why did you want it to embody the style and aesthetic of the sixties and seventies in the project?

So that was for one of the shoots, actually. But this was because I interviewed a lady who doesn’t like having her picture taken, so I needed visuals to accompany the piece. She spoke a lot about how, when she was in her twenties during the sixties and seventies, they used to wear styles similar to what Twiggy wore, which just highlights how Westernised this culture was even then. In a way, I feel like this sixties influence is still present now because those twenty-year-olds have grown older, but they remain attached to the fashion trends from back in the day. I suppose it’s just nostalgic. Everyone seems to talk about nostalgia, but I love it. I feel that all of my work is driven by nostalgia, as I know we need to look to the future, yet I just adore the past. I don’t know, perhaps that’s just a coping mechanism for trying to run away from what I need to face. The project is nostalgic in many ways, as I am revisiting my childhood and watching this place evolve. It seemed fitting to document it nostalgically because it has changed significantly.

170

I’m trying to encapsulate the culture that I’m from and like the sort of visual aesthetic that so many people in India are so fond of. I’m trying to share it with people as a way to archive and document a culture that I don’t know how long will be able to sustain this life. And as a way to just sort of encourage people to learn more about different cultures, because I have enjoyed learning about more cultures.

171

172

Have you ever felt a sense of discrimination or racism or anything of that sort while you’ve been in the UK? Not really, in the sense that I haven’t felt any racism directed towards me. However, I must say that coming to the UK has completely stripped me of my selfconfidence, which is quite sad. I know this might seem a bit confusing, as I do these shoots, but I’ve started to struggle a lot with imposter syndrome since arriving here. I guess this is my first experience of being one of the only brown people in the room, and these things tend to stand out more to you when you notice them. It’s not that anyone is purposely being unkind, but it’s just a feeling that makes us think, ‘Oh yes, I need to be quiet because there’s no space for me here’. But I have such great support from the staff, they’re always giving me excellent feedback. I can’t say anything bad about anyone here. I know it’s all about me coping with being here. But the bottom line is that, yes, the things I’m doing are very much related to my culture. I’ve wondered how applicable they are to the UK. I don’t know, but it’s just not something I actively think about because, for me, creating involves making things I want to create. So I’m not thinking, ‘Oh, I need to create something that the UK will be interested in’.

173

For me, it’s about the fact that… sure, it would be great to win awards, and it’s great to have my work recognised, obviously. But when I went back home last Christmas to interview all these people in my community, they were so delighted that a young person was interested in learning about them. For me, that makes it all worthwhile because if I’ve made their day, then that’s enough for me to feel happy about this project. Several of them mentioned that it’s so lovely to see a young person enthusiastic about keeping our stories alive, which really makes it all worthwhile.

174

175

176

Photography: Layla Knutt & Dani’s archival images

177

178

Grace Achieng is an entrepreneur originally from Kenya. She moved to Iceland in 2010 and founded a sustainable fashion brand focused on empowering women and reducing environmental harm. She is also a board member of Iceland’s Association of Women in the Labour Market. Grace shares her struggles to join the Icelandic labour market due to her foreign background and name. She advocates for improved Icelandic language education to help immigrants integrate better into society, addressing barriers many face in adapting to Icelandic life

179

180

ICELAND

181

Let’s start with your journey moving to Iceland Okay, so I met this Icelandic man almost 15 years ago, and I remember he was telling me about Iceland and that he was from there, and I did not believe that there was a country called Iceland. I was like, ‘No way, what's the actual name of the country? Like, I get it, it's cold there, but what's the real name?’ And I went on the world map, and I was looking for it but didn't find it, and so I was still like, ‘Okay, if you don’t want to tell me where you're from, then I don’t think I want to talk to you’ haha. And he said, ‘No, no, no, wait, just look between Greenland and the UK’. And then, I don’t know, things just progressed from there, and we got married, and three months later, I moved to Iceland. When I first arrived in Iceland, I remember stepping out of the airport and being hit by this wave of fresh, crisp air—it felt completely new, like nothing I’d experienced before. But the drive from the airport? That was a different story. As we drove through endless lava fields, I kept thinking, ‘Where are the people? No one lives here!’ I turned to him and said, ‘You brought me here to live— but there’s no one around!’ I was ready to book a one-way ticket back to Kenya.

Then we passed through Keflavík and started seeing houses, then Hafnarfjörður, then Kópavogur. Eventually, I saw a tall building and thought, ‘Okay, they even have a skyscraper—maybe I can live here after all’, haha. But just two days later, we moved to the countryside, and that was incredibly hard for me. It felt surreal. The town was so small, and there was no one walking on the streets. It was like I had landed on another planet. At times, I felt claustrophobic—like I was trapped in a valley surrounded by mountains, wanting to scream for someone to rescue me. I honestly stayed there for four months only because I knew we would eventually move to Reykjavík. If Reykjavík didn’t exist, I would have gone back to Kenya. I can’t imagine myself living in a small town—not even in Akureyri, as beautiful as it is. What truly made me stay, though, was the peace. There’s something about Iceland—the quietness, the stillness—it calms your mind. There’s very little noise pollution or overstimulation. Living close to Úlfarsfell mountain, with rivers nearby and views of the sea during my drives, has brought a sense of mental clarity I nev-

er expected. It’s helped me feel grounded and at peace. While there are still things that could be improved, especially around integration, the kindness of people and the connection to nature have made a big difference. That’s why I chose to stay. In Kenya, did you live in a crowded area or a city with many people? I grew up in Kisumu, the third-largest city in Kenya, with a population of around 500,000. Later, I moved to Mombasa—Kenya’s second-largest city—to study marketing management in college. Mombasa is a vibrant beach town and still my favourite place in Kenya. I lived there for five years, surrounded by its coastal charm and energy. Back then, the city had about one million people, and although it has changed over the years, those five years left a lasting impression on me before I eventually moved to Iceland.

182

How was it moving from Kenya to Iceland? How did you find adapting to society, as opposed to the nature? What was engaging with the community, society and its people like? Did you encounter many different cultural aspects? Did you feel out of place, or how did you feel upon your arrival? What was that experience like? As I mentioned, people are good here. However, they tend to be very close-knit, maintaining their own circles that few can penetrate. This results in a considerable sense of loneliness, exclusion, and solitude. In Kenya, people are exceptionally friendly and hospitable. You could simply meet someone in a market or on the streets, say hello, start conversing, and become lifelong friends. But here, that doesn't occur.

183

Did you experience any discrimination or racism when you first arrived? To be honest, I wouldn't personally phrase it that way. However, when spaces are constantly locked or closed off to you, it creates a sense of exclusion. We can speak with you, but you still don’t belong here. In the work environment and social spaces, this is particularly evident. I don’t like to use the tezcism, it feels like a very weighty term that can sometimes hinder conversation. However, it is undeniable that doors are often closed, especially for people of colour, in big organisations, you will find them working in kitchens, cleaning, and other low-wage jobs, yet they are highly educated and skilled.

I read an article in which you discussed your early experiences here in Iceland. You had an education and a degree, but somehow, you didn't have the same opportunities as others when you entered the labour market. People seemed to not take you as seriously as others, and it was hard to get out there. As you mentioned, the doors were closed, which would likely have posed much more of a challenge due to your being a woman of foreign origin Yeah, it was very hard. The doors are literally closed. I was never looking for a high-profile job, but any decent work, including clothing stores and work as a receptionist and the sort, but it proved futile, so I ended up working as a waitress at a cleaning company and a nursery school. Women and men of foreign origin have had to settle for jobs that are often far below their education and qualifications. People with education,

professional expertise, and experience are unable to find jobs that match their skills and are, therefore, forced to take whatever is available in order to get by. In more prestigious and competitive positions that we do manage to obtain, we are often not given the opportunity to grow, no matter how competent we are or even if we further our education. Despite meeting all qualification requirements — and often exceeding them by far — we see that our Icelandic colleagues are more likely to be hired for higher positions, even with less experience and competence. But even within that group, people experience a certain pecking order based on skin colour. At the top are white Americans, Brits, Canadians, and other Western central Europeans. Next come Eastern Europeans, then Asians, and at the bottom are brown and Black people. The darker your skin, the lower you are in the food chain.

I find it hard to say, but we are indeed at the bottom of the food chain. You simply don't get opportunities, your education doesn't matter, and if you don't have an Icelandic name on the CV, you don’t get to even have an interview. Many people, especially Polish nationals, sometimes change their names to Icelandic just to get a chance to get through the door. Personally, I refuse to change anything about myself to gain acceptance. I think it's really difficult for someone to alter their identity and name just to get through the door at all and at least to get that opportunity. We do not change our names to get ahead. And no, we shouldn’t have to apologise for the legacy of our mothers. There is no dignity in denying who we are. And I always find a way.

184

GRACELANDIC So, following that, you started your company, Gracelandic? Was that what you decided to do so because you felt that no doors were open for you in the job market? I loved working in nursery school because kids are amazing, but I realised I wasn’t living to my full potential, I could do more. I needed a challenge. Every day, I felt disconnected from my life and wanted to contribute significantly to society. Tired of waiting for opportunities, I decided to create my own path. In 2020, I founded Gracelandic, driven by my passion for fashion and inspired by someone who influenced me deeply. I had no plan, I just knew I had to start. When I founded the company, I had little to nothing—just passion and determination. But after being in an accident, I received compensation and decided to use it to establish a limited company. I knew I had to make it official because it put a certain pressure on me to take it seriously and guided me step by step. So, I chose the name and registered it. Then, next, I needed a trademark and set up a website. It was like a snowball that kept rolling. I had never built a website in my life, and I’m not the most tech-savvy person, but I built the Gracelandic website—I bought a course on web design on Udemy, and then YouTube became my best friend. I took Excel courses. I did market research, looked up information about the fashion industry, and that’s when I learned about

185

sustainable fashion and the socalled slow fashion movement. I took a course on how to start a fashion company. Then, I had to find a manufacturer in the middle of the COVID-19 pandemic. It was a terrifying thought to trust someone I didn’t know with everything I owned—I put everything I had into this, and it paid off. At some point, I wanted to sign up for an entrepreneurship course, but when I looked at what they had to offer, I realised that I had done everything. I think it’s truly amazing to create and launch a brand. How did you manage that? Did you need a significant amount of financial backing, or did you receive the assistance you required? How did you navigate this, especially during COVID? What was the journey like? Was it difficult? Yeah, it was really difficult. As I mentioned, I had been in an accident before, and I had an insurance payout. So, I had some capital, and this was a dream I had always had. It was, though, very difficult to manoeuvre during COVID. But on the positive side, I had time. The most challenging part was finding a manufacturer. It was hard because I couldn’t travel or meet people, and I couldn’t determine if they were genuine or just scammers or if the sustainability offerings they were selling were true to the company. I had to trust them, even though I did an online interview with some employees since I knew I didn’t want to work with a company that dealt with forced labour and an unhealthy work environment, as

prevalent in the fashion industry. And I also had to send them the capital, that was truly difficult. I asked them if I could send half of the payment first and then the rest later, hoping to receive the collection, but they said, ‘No, we don’t operate like that’. So, I just sent it, and yeah, it worked. Do you decide on all the designs, and do you design each? I sketch them and decide on all the design details, collaborate with a graphic designer who changes them into computer-aided designs (CAD), or ‘tech pack’, a comprehensive document that includes all the essential details and specifications required to manufacture a garment, after this collaboration, I send them to the manufacturer. Do you currently work with many people now who work for Gracelandic? I do, but through outsourcing. Currently, it’s just me and an accountant. if I had to have a team here, that would cost a lot of money. Instead, I tend to hire freelancers as I work to scale Gracelandic and create employment opportunities in Iceland. We are currently in a transition or journey from a niche fashion brand to an impact-driven ecosystem, with a multi-dimensional business model where we aim to balance profitability with philanthropy, and our vision is to Fashion as a force for sustainability, empowerment, and innovation.

186

GROWING UP Where do you get your inspiration for your designs? Where did your passion for fashion come from? Why did you want to pursue a career in fashion? This goes way back. If I think of the first moment I realised that there’s something about clothing and what we wear, it was when I was six years old. I recall this so well, my aunt, whom I loved dearly, would come to visit so infrequently, but once, when she came, she bought me a dress. I was always a shy child, sitting on the sidelines just watching her, studying her. I thought she was so beautiful. She wore really colourful clothes and had numerous bangles on her arm, and I would just sit back and admire her. She was kind, and when she entered a room, the atmosphere changed. She was such a wonderful person, and when she gave me this dress, I remember how I felt when I wore it. As I mentioned, I was a very, very shy child, but when I donned that dress, I felt powerful. It was as if I could, I don’t know, I just felt so powerful. I’m not sure what that means for a six-year-old. But I felt seen, you know, visible, whereas I often felt like I was lost and non-existent, always in the background, invisible. But in that dress, I was powerful, invincible. I remember outgrowing that dress, yet that feeling persisted. It made me realise that the clothes we wear can genuinely impact our well-being.

187

I used to dislike the clothes my mother bought for us, she would purchase clothes from the flea market that were often mismatched and bad quality. I couldn’t wait to buy my own clothes when I’m older. Then, in high school, at 15, I actually started doing business. I would save up pocket money that was meant for the bus and lunch money and use it to buy clothes at outdoor markets, which I then sold to my classmates. I loved seeing how happy people were when they felt they dressed well. While I was in university in Mombasa, I sometimes worked as a stylist to earn a bit of extra money. So even though I studied marketing management, I wanted to work in something related to fashion — but I couldn’t get a job in that field. Many times, I was late to school, and schools in Kenya are not like the schools here in Iceland. If you’re late, you face punishment. Once, I had to cut down a tree, haha. But I would run to school, save my money, and then go to the flea market to buy clothes. I remember one time, someone asked me if they could buy what I was wearing. They said, ‘I’ll pay for double what you got it for. At first, I hesitated, but then they said, ‘I’ll pay you double’, and I thought, ‘Oh, okay’, haha. From that point on, I decided to make it a business. So I began doing that, and then in college, I loved to style. I truly enjoy styling, I love styling people. I think it brings me joy to be part of something and to put a smile on someone’s face. I remember in college, I wouldn’t sell clothes, but I would style people. On weekends, there would be queues at my hostel as people were heading downtown or going on a date, needing to borrow clothes, and I was styling them. It was such great fun. Is there a lot of cultural clothing in Kenya? Are there specific garments for your culture? Is that something you have? Yeah, we do, we do have that. We call them Kitenge, colourful clothes.

188

189

190

Where does the influence of your current designs for Gracelandic come from? I think the designs reflect the calmness I’ve felt in Iceland, influencing the brand. The sea and sky capture this tranquillity. At this point, I don’t see a significant Kenyan influence but that will change in the future. Also, in regards to Gracelandic’s values about the environment and overall sustainability and corporate social responsibility (CSR), fashion is produced in developing nations and discarded there. I grew up sifting through fast fashion at flea markets, noting its poor quality and witnessing landfill overflow. This experience highlighted the negative impact of fast fashion on African nations, especially Kenya. I wanted to avoid this cycle. Initially unaware of slow or fast fashion, I realised my unintentional involvement. I now recognise the overconsumption in the West and its consequences, including poor-quality items ending up in Africa. Many think they donate, but it often results in waste. I admire resilient Kenyan women who, with limited resources, invest to support their families. They purchase bulk fast fashion, not knowing what they’ll receive, leading to significant losses. I haven’t returned to Kenya recently, but I hope to integrate it our brand in the future.

191

For now, my Icelandic surroundings inspire my designs. Nature in Iceland has helped me feel more grounded with its simplicity. You can just breathe, everything feels more serene. I think that’s something I like to incorporate into my designs—simplicity and timelessness. It’s about creating pieces that can be worn in various ways, like a capsule wardrobe, where one garment can be styled differently. Nature offers us so much inspiration. I want to build a brand that’s not about overconsumption but rather about exploring how to use items in different ways. It’s about moving away from the never ending cycle always seeking new things or following trends and instead finding versatility in what we have. For fashion enthusiasts, the relentless pursuit of trends to fill up a man-made void is not only unrealistic but harmful to our planet. Slow fashion offers a sustainable alternative that benefits both people and nature. Understanding the stark differences between slow and fast fashion is crucial. Slow fashion fosters a symbiotic relationship between fashion & nature. In contrast, fast fashion prioritizes mass production and mass consumption without regard for environmental consequences.

How has the fashion interest inspired and shaped you as a person? What other influences have you had, particularly being from Kenya and then coming to Iceland? What effect has this had on you? My paternal aunt has been my greatest inspiration in fashion. She introduced me to the art of upcycling by buying clothes from flea markets and transforming them into something beautiful and unique. Starting with almost nothing, she launched her own brand and opened boutiques in Kenya, skillfully turning oversized or discarded garments into fashionable pieces. Her journey from humble beginnings to success has deeply influenced my desire to create meaningful change through fashion. Growing up, I witnessed the impact of fast fashion in Kenya firsthand. The closure of our local clothing manufacturing factory (KICOMI) due to the influx of fast fashion, international sanctions, and cheap fabrics that they couldn’t compete with led to widespread job losses, particularly affecting women. Despite these challenges, many have shown remarkable resilience by starting small businesses. Their strength motivates me to design lasting, timeless pieces—garments that can be passed down and reused rather than discarded. I also aim

to work with local tailors and designers in Kenya and especially across Africa as a way to reduce environmental harm and support women’s empowerment, both socially and economically. Through travel and research, I’ve recognised similar systemic issues in Kenya and Chile, with the biggest landfills in the world, Asia, and other parts of the developing world. In my Blogs, my writing explores themes such as overflowing landfills, gender-based violence, and the hidden exploitation of children in the fashion supply chain. These injustices have shaped my perspective and commitment to change. Coming from two different cultures has given me a deeper understanding of sustainability—not just as an environmental goal, but as a balance between profit, people, and the planet, our triple bottom line (TBL). I believe true success means creating value without contributing to economic harm, especially in developing countries. Minimalism and simplicity define my designs. I want my creations to be appreciated for their essence, offering a sense of calm in a world of overconsumption and distorted beauty standards. Although financial limitations have delayed my full journey,

my vision is clear: to build a brand that uplifts, empowers, and respects both people and the planet. So, where are the clothes for Gracelandic made? Our garments are made in Izmir, Turkey, through a small, family-run business that handles every step of the process—from fabric production to final garment creation. On the first floor of their facility, they produce the textiles themselves, including silk from their own farm. The second floor is dedicated to garment production. This integrated setup not only gives me a deeper understanding of fabric sourcing but also significantly reduces our carbon footprint by eliminating the need for long-distance transportation. In addition, we collaborate with a sustainable production company based in Bucharest, Romania. They share our values and operate without minimum order quantities, allowing us to remain flexible and mindful of overproduction.

192

FÉLAG KVENNA Í ATVINNULÍFINU I have noticed you’re often at various events. It seems like you’re always somewhere speaking before a crowd or something is happening in your life Yes, I do find myself at many events—it’s part of my mission to use every platform I can to advocate for inclusion, sustainability, and women’s empowerment and to learn as well. I’ve been fortunate to speak at various conferences, local and international, and entrepreneurship incubators that have given me space to share my journey and vision. One of the most impactful roles I’ve held is as a board member of FKA – Félag Kvenna í Atvinnulífinu (Association of Women in the Labour Market), where I’ve served for the past two years. Before that, I led the committee for women of foreign origin, a subgroup within FKA that I didn’t even know existed when I first joined. Discovering it and realising its potential was a turning point for me.

193

As a board member of FKA, I’ve also represented the organisation at the UN Commission on the Status of Women, a United Nations body dedicated to promoting gender equality and the empowerment of women. The UN CSW meets annually and attended CSW68 and CSW69 at the UN Headquarters in New York aimed to evaluate progress, set global standards, and formulate concrete policies on women’s rights and gender issues. FKA has been instrumental in helping me integrate into Icelandic society. It’s a place full of inspiring, driven women who support each other’s growth, whether they’re launching businesses or thriving within the labor market. The shared knowledge, from marketing strategies to grant opportunities, has been invaluable. When I joined, I felt an overwhelming sense of support and community. I also noticed that while some departments like Framtíð (Future), which

focuses on younger members, were thriving, the committee for women of foreign origin was inactive. I saw that as a missed opportunity—so I stepped up. One of the highlights was hosting the Gracelandic Echo Conference. The inaugural Gracelandic Echo Conference in September 2024 brought together leaders—including Iceland’s President and Former Minister for the Labor Market and Social Affairs—to spotlight diversity, integration, and climate action. I welcomed attendees as Founder and CEO, emphasising fashion as a force for change. Echo creates space for unheard voices and fosters dialogue between immigrants and native Icelanders. Partnered with Stjórnvísi, it marked a pivotal moment in reshaping entrepreneurship in Iceland. At Gracelandic, we believe businesses must uplift people, protect the planet, and generate profit—with purpose at the core.

194

I wanted to inquire about the event that you went to last November, held by UAK Ungar Athafnakonur (Young Professional Women in Iceland) I spoke to Lenya Rún as well, and she was telling me how incredible and emotional it was The UAK event last November was nothing short of extraordinary. It was one of the most powerful gatherings I’ve attended—emotional, raw, and deeply moving. There was a unique sense of safety in the room, everyone felt free to share their stories, struggles, and hopes. Many of us were in tears, overwhelmed by the honesty and strength on display. One moment that stood out was hearing Lenya Rún speak. Her courage is remarkable—she holds her ground, even when facing seasoned

195

politicians who are often set in their ways. She doesn’t shy away from uncomfortable truths, and it’s inspiring to see someone so young speak with such clarity and conviction. What struck me most was how the younger generation in Iceland is truly shaking things up. They may not hold all the power yet, but they are actively changing the narrative. They’re fearless, bold, and deeply committed to pushing society forward—not just by dreaming of change but by engaging in the real conversations that move us there. Yes, I definitely agree. Everything is changing and evolving in our societies, regardless of whether people like it or not I completely agree—our soci-

eties are continuously changing and evolving, whether people are ready for it or not. One positive shift I’ve noticed is in schools, where students are growing up alongside peers from diverse cultural backgrounds. This early exposure builds empathy and a deeper understanding of inclusion. I’m especially inspired by the younger generation. They’re fearless, open-minded, and genuinely driven to create a better world. I want to stay close to their communities— learning from them and supporting their efforts. Right now, I’m also working on a major project: Gracelandic’s transition into a sustainability ecosystem, which I believe will make a significant and lasting contribution to this evolving movement toward a more just and inclusive society.

196

Is there anything else, in terms of your work or career that you’ve been involved in, perhaps other events that you might want to mention? Yeah, last year, I launched our first Gracelandic social impact event, which focused on economic empowerment for innovation and inclusion in the standard labour market. This is still a significant issue as everyone desires a good life. We possess the education, expertise, and knowledge necessary to improve the country we live in. We can share this knowledge to help grow the economy, so let’s utilise what we have. I aimed to create a space where we could discuss these topics. Halla Tómasdóttir, the President of Iceland, was a keynote speaker at the event, alongside the former Minister of Social Affairs and Housing in Iceland. This event resembled education through fashion, breaking barriers and fostering accept-

197

ance to reach a wider audience by serving as a voice for change. It addressed labour practices and the significance of ethical fashion. I appreciated the event’s diversity, which I wish could be the norm, often, at such gatherings, I’m either the only immigrant or the only person of colour. There, diversity flourished. We had panellists from various backgrounds, including an Icelandic man, to discuss sustainability. Our panel also featured a marketing director from ÍslandsBanki (a bank in Iceland), a University of Iceland professor, and a businesswoman with an innovative enterprise. I ensured the inclusion of an immigrant man, women, and Icelandic women, reflecting our society. This diversity highlighted that people, regardless of origin, can connect when sharing ideas. With Gracelandic, my aim was to create a platform for immigrant

women, especially women of colour, many of whom have master’s degrees but struggle to find jobs. Visibility in the media is essential to showcase their contributions. I reject societal divisions, I don’t operate in black and white. In FKA, my focus is on finding the right speaker, regardless of race. I prioritise amplifying young Icelandic voices, often overlooked in favour of older nominees. A holistic approach to sustainability and empowerment is vital for fostering a robust economy. Furthermore, with Gracelandic, I like to have diverse models to emphasise brand diversity and foster conversations about diversity. This approach aims to reflect the richness of multicultural influences present in Iceland. For instance, we held a slow fashion runway show, which not only highlights the beauty of sustainable and ethical fashion but also showcases the rich cultural heritage and diversity while promoting equality and social integration.

198

With Gracelandic, my aim was to create a platform for immigrant women, especially women of colour, many of whom have master’s degrees but struggle to find jobs. Visibility in the media is essential to showcase their contributions. I reject societal divisions, I don’t operate in black and white. In FKA, my focus is on finding the right speaker, regardless of race. I prioritise amplifying young Icelandic voices, often overlooked in favour of older nominees. A holistic approach to sustainability and empowerment is vital for fostering a robust economy.

199

200

After completing my Bachelor’s in Icelandic as a second language, my thesis titled Icelandic Language Teaching for Immigrants in the Labour Market addressed the lack of support for language learners. Many are told, ‘You don’t speak Icelandic, that’s why you can’t find a job’. One case was a woman from Eastern Europe who, despite speaking Icelandic well, needed a letter signed by two Icelanders to verify her proficiency after a successful interview where she spoke Icelandic. Frustratingly, an American woman was still hired without any language skills. This disparity often reflects a belief that certain individuals won’t fit in culturally. The Eastern European woman got the job only with a signature, while the American woman was accepted without knowledge of the language. This scenario highlights how qualified immigrants, such as surgeons or lecturers, can find themselves in low-status jobs, which deeply saddens me. My brand aims to promote inclusivity and integration, inspired by my thesis. Unlike the Nordic countries, which have support policies for immigrants, Icelandic courses seem profit-driven rather than focused on genuine learning. Apps for language learning isolate users and do not promote engagement. We must find ways to help women who lack educational support and assist newcomers in validating their qualifications for employment. There is a significant loss of knowledge when these individuals are overlooked. I want my brand to advocate for these issues and combat anti-immigration sentiments, questioning the actions of those discussing diversity without practical efforts. Empty gestures on social media aren’t enough, true empowerment requires action. If leaders consistently favour Icelandic candidates over qualified immigrants, it conveys a troubling hypocrisy, whether intentional or not.

201

onal or not.

202

I wanted to discuss your experiences in Iceland further. People of colour and immigrants face job challenges due to appearance or names. Are there other aspects of society where individuals feel excluded or different? Have you personally felt this sense of otherness? Yes, I think it’s always there—subtle, often unspoken. Many people don’t realise that individuals experience and perceive reality differently. There’s this concept of “whiteness”—where anything unfamiliar, whether in appearance, language, or culture, is seen as other, often evoking discomfort or fear. Personally, I grew up in very difficult circumstances. Life has never been easy, and I’ve had to find my way through challenges, even when doors were closed. I’ve always had to figure things out on my own. In fact, challenges are what I do best, finding opportunities in them.

203

I’ve never truly felt like I belonged anywhere—and strangely, I’ve never longed to. I’ve come to believe

that I belong everywhere and nowhere, which is truly freeing. I genuinely love people, regardless of their status in life. I’d like to believe that I treat everyone the same. What grounds me is my faith—I’m a Christian. I’ve learned to see myself through God’s eyes: valuable, worthy, and whole. When I’m hard on myself, I remember that God never sees me that way. That understanding quiets the noise of others’ opinions and gives me the freedom to simply be me and who I was created to be. I wish everyone could experience that kind of clarity—the kind that eases the pressure to perform or fit in. I still encounter closed doors and often find myself as the only immigrant in the room. But I’m not afraid to stand alone. Wherever I go, I lead with openness, trusting that by being fully myself, I create space for others to do the same—even those who are still learning to let their guard down.

204

Many people don’t realise that individuals experience and perceive reality differently. There’s this concept of “whiteness”—where anything unfamiliar, whether in appearance, language, or culture, is seen as other, often evoking discomfort or fear. Personally, I grew up in very difficult circumstances. Life has never been easy, and I’ve had to find my way through challenges, even when doors were closed. I’ve always had to figure things out on my own. In fact, challenges are what I do best, finding opportunities in them. I’ve never truly felt like I belonged anywhere—and strangely, I’ve never longed to. I’ve come to believe that I belong everywhere and nowhere, which is truly freeing. I genuinely love people, regardless of their status in life. I’d like to believe that I treat everyone the same.

205

In daily life, do you experience any form of discrimination from people, or do people start speaking to you in English? Is that something that occurs? Yes, I experience it quite often—sometimes in ways that are almost humorous. For example, I could be speaking in Icelandic, and yet people respond in English as if they don’t even hear Icelandic. It’s especially noticeable when I'm with a white immigrant, they're at least first spoken to in Icelandic until, of course, Icelanders hear an accent, but I’m addressed in English. Even when I continue the conversation in Icelandic, it often stays in English. I’ve had to ask people, ‘Do you speak Icelandic?’ and they’re surprised: ‘Oh, you speak Icelandic?!’ In the last two years, I’ve also encountered a different kind of discrimination in a certain space—a quiet, subtle kind rooted in outdated stereotypes. There's this unspoken expectation that I won’t deliver excellence because I'm African. And when I do exceed expectations, it is not always welcomed. It feels like a ‘not one of us’ response. Mediocrity is simply not in my nature, and most Africans I know, especially Kenyans, are hard workers. It is ingrained in us. I don’t remember ever even having breakfast before completing a task or chore. I’ve heard other immigrant women speak about this experience, but facing it firsthand was deeply frustrating and strange. One thing that helps me is my firm identity in God and not the standards of this world.

206

FAMILY AND KENYA I wanted to ask a bit more about your family life and raising a kid. How has it been raising your girl? Do you talk a lot about or immerse in Kenyan culture, or is she more immersed in the Icelandic environment? Raising my daughter has been a beautiful journey. I try to keep her connected to part of her heritage, Kenyan roots, especially through language and food. We speak Swahili at home occasionally—though she was hesitant at first, she’s now more eager to learn as she gets older. It’s become something we share together. We cook a lot of Kenyan dishes at home, which she absolutely loves. I remember once, after visiting her dad, she came back and said, ‘Oh my God, the food was not as good as here’. It made me smile. She enjoys being in Kenya when we visit, but Iceland is very much her home. She’s growing up with the best of both

207

worlds—rooted in her heritage I’ve been a couple of times. but thriving in the environment she knows best, Iceland. Do you think you incorporate much of Kenyan culture into Do you have your own your life now? For instance, language in Kenya? you eat the food, and I noKenya is incredibly diverse, ticed you have some Kenyan with 43 different languages, friends here in Iceland as well each tied to one of the many Yes, I do know some peotribes across the country. ple from Kenya, and recentThese tribal languages are of- ly, we celebrated Kenyan ten referred to as one’s mother Independence Day togethtongue, which usually depends er. It was such a joyful expeon the region you’re from. For rience—the food, the music, me, my mother tongue is Luo. the laughter, and the culture Most Kenyans grow up speak- were all incredible. It was the ing at least three languages: first time we had marked the their mother tongue, Swahi- occasion, and it truly felt like li—our national language— a home away from home. and English, which is the There’s something special official language used in all about being in an environformal documents and edu- ment that brings back sweet cation. This multilingualism memories, even while you’re is a natural part of daily life far from where you grew up. and reflects Kenya’s rich cul- The humour, the energy—it tural and linguistic heritage. reminded me how beautifully culture shapes connection. Have you visited Kenya a It was a heartwarming mocouple of times since you ment to share that in Iceland. moved? Either by yourself or with your daughter?

208

What do you think we, as a society, can do better in Iceland for people, including immigrants and those of foreign origins? Additionally, what measures can be taken to improve language support? In your opinion, what can be done? I believe one of the most important steps we can take as a society in Iceland is to establish a comprehensive integration policy—a clear plan that begins the moment immigrants arrive. Such a policy would help individuals navigate their new environment and feel part of the community from the start. Language support is a key element. Without understanding Icelandic, it's incredibly difficult to access job opportunities, join meaningful conversations, or participate in decision-making. Inclusion starts with communication. Unfortunately, the current language courses for immigrants often fall short—they're not practical or effective in helping people truly learn the language. Beyond language, integration also involves cultural understanding. What may be normal in one culture can be completely different in another. My experiences in both Kenyan and Icelandic cultures have shown me how essential it is to recognise and respect these differences. A strong integration policy would address these issues holistically—promoting cultural awareness, effective language learning, and equal access to opportunities. It's not just about helping immigrants adjust. It's about building a more inclusive and connected society for everyone.

209

210

211

212

Photography: Grace’s archival images.

213

214

Sayoko Maria Aoyama is a young woman with a diverse international background, having experiences in Japan, Romania, Switzerland, the UK, and South Korea, either through her origins or her time living there. In this interview, Maria reflects on her sense of identity, the experience of living in different societies, and what belonging and home mean to her. Now in her third year of Fine Art at Arts University Bournemouth, Maria discusses her work, particularly her final-year project focused on languages and translation, which relates to her thoughts on identity and belonging.

215

216

217

218

MULTI-COUNTRIES

219

When did you move to Bournemouth? I came to Bournemouth four years ago, or three or four years ago, so it’s been not too long but not very short either.

Do you have any siblings? I have an older brother, but he works here in London. My family is kind of all over the place.

I saw that you lived in South Korea last year, were you still in university? Yeah, I went on an exchange to South Korea for four months.

Have you also been to Romania? Yeah, I tend to go to Romania a lot more because it’s closer. I have a much bigger family there.

How was that? Completely different worlds. It’s interesting for me because of my Japanese side. It’s similar to that culture in a way, but I left Japan when I was about six, so I’ve never fully felt that before. Now, as an adult, going to a place like Korea, where I’m kind of familiar with how things work, but it’s also a bit different.

Why did you decide to come to the UK or Bournemouth? You’ve been in Bournemouth these four years? Honestly, I don’t really remember how I came across Bournemouth, but it was right after COVID. I wasn’t sure what I was going to do because I didn’t want to pay to study online, especially for a creative course. But then, AUB offered a foundation diploma for international students that is structured so you don’t have to get a student visa. They condense the year-long foundation into just half a year. That was good for me as an international student, so I went for it. I really

Have you been to Japan again since you left at six years old? I do have some family there, so I try to see them about every other year or so. My grandma and uncle live there.

liked the university and ended up staying here. In terms of the UK, it was more about language for me because English is my first language. Switzerland is great if you’re fully Swiss or fluent in the language; otherwise, it can be quite difficult to integrate. What languages are spoken in Switzerland? It depends on which part you are in. In the area I’m in, they speak German, but they also speak French and Italian. What languages did you speak when you were growing up? It was mostly English, with a bit of Romanian and not much Japanese. Then I learned German and French at school, but there wasn’t much opportunity to speak them outside of school. The schools I went to were all English-speaking. And a lot of my friends are also international.

220

SWITZERLAND Did you ever feel that Switzerland was more for people who are ‘completely Swiss?’ As you mentioned, did you ever feel as though you didn‘t belong?

think they are very protective. I believe this is a common trait among many countries that are doing well—they tend to be quite guarded about who is allowed in and who can stay.

I think nowadays, due to the number of international people there, it has become much more open. However, throughout my time living there, I’ve felt that it is very hard to integrate as a foreigner. Swiss German is a kind of German, it’s a dialect and quite difficult to learn because, grammatically, there are virtually no rules. You learn it by speaking.

So, how many languages would you say you speak? Five. Kind of. This is kind of because my German and French are a bit rough, especially now after living in the UK. I can understand Japanese, but I can’t really speak it. As for Romanian, I can speak it.

Consequently, anyone coming from another place finds it challenging to pick it up. Standard German has more structure, yet you can easily tell when someone is speaking one form of German over the other, and as soon as you attempt to converse with someone, they can immediately tell you’re not from there. That’s one significant issue. As for Switzerland as a country, it is great, it’s safe and beautiful. However, because of that, I

221

Would you say Switzerland is quite diverse and that it‘s reflected in the people there? It’s changed quite a bit. I’d say it depends, depending on where in Switzerland you are. The big cities are definitely more diverse, but many areas are quite rural. It’s very rare to find someone who isn’t Swiss. There are large diasporas, such as a significant Albanian community and several Balkan communities. There’s also an Indian community; in some areas, many have become naturalised with the aim of becoming Swiss.

What are the government’s views and opinions on immigrants or foreigners in general? It’s, um, tricky. To be honest, living here, I haven’t been keeping up as much as I ought to with what’s happening. But, um, the government is quite strict on, as I mentioned, who comes in and who goes out. Um, I have this very striking memory from when I was a child. Whenever there is a vote taking place, they, um, put up advertisements asking, ‘Should we do this?’ And then it was like ‘yes or no’. They promote it like that. Right outside our school, there was an advertisement about immigration law. The image depicted a white sheep and a black sheep, with a line between them, like kicking the black sheep out. It was right at the entrance of our school, and we discussed it in class. But I definitely don’t think it’s as bad as it was, but it’s still… there’s still something there.

222

Your parents come from two different places. You grew up in a location distinct from theirs and now live in Bournemouth. Do you feel like you have a sense of what home means to you?

223

I think about it all the time, and I don’t know. I mean, now that I’m in my final year, I’m trying to figure out what I’m meant to do next. The thing is, visas make everything harder. And what you do in this situation, when you don’t know what you’re doing, is you go back home, right? You try to figure it out there. I don’t know where I’d go back to. I could go back to Switzerland, but I can’t see myself living there. Then there’s Japan, my nationality and my passport are Japanese. So, when you think about it from the government’s perspective, that’s my home. I can always go back there, but I don’t have a really close tie to the country. As for Romania, again, I don’t know what I‘d do there. Right now, the UK is what I consider to be home. A lot of people I know are from here, and I live here at the moment, but the thing is, visas... if you want to stay here, you need to know what you’re doing. Otherwise, you need to leave.

224

Growing up, did Switzerland feel like home for you? It has definitely changed. I mean, when you’re a child, you don’t think about it too much unless something really serious happens to you. I felt like it was home because of the community I had there, you know, all my friends. I’ve been privileged to be around many different types of people, and we all share similar experiences. That was definitely comforting as a child. As I grew up, I realised I had to stop relying on my parents to help me navigate the wider society and talk to others. Experiencing language barriers and looking different… it‘s largely about the language, to be honest. Have you ever felt some kind of prejudice when you speak English to people in Switzerland? Sometimes, you can tell that some people lack patience. People in my town aren’t necessarily prejudiced but aren’t particularly accustomed to dealing with foreigners, either. For example, I needed to renew my ID about five years ago, so I had to go to the town hall, where you usually obtain your official documents. In my town, no one could speak to you in English at that time. You had to speak with them in German. There was also a time when I lost my ID, and I had to talk to the police. Obviously, speaking to the police made me a bit anxious, and I asked, ‘Can I explain what happened in English?’ He replied, ‘No, German’.

225

So even if they understand English, they know that they should be patient with you. There’s always something that creates discomfort. Only recently, I feel that the younger generation is a bit more lenient. Also, now many people there actually speak English, and it’s improved a lot. Yes, I definitely believe that things are changing with younger generations. When you leave your hometown, do you feel that this is where you meet more people who are willing to speak English? Um, I would say that when you go into central areas, it gets a lot better because, um, that’s where there’s more diversity. But where my school was, in the smaller towns where I live, absolutely not. It’s like, you know everyone, and everyone knows you, kind of thing. Have you ever felt like any type of discrimination or racism or anything like that in Switzerland because of how you look? Nothing huge. Every now and then, there are some remarks about me being Asian. Just like, I don’t know, calling me Chinese or making certain expressions—both from kids and adults. Then it’s like when you’re getting documents or having your passport checked, there is a bit more hesitancy when asking you where you’re from. Sometimes, when I was travelling with my mum, for example, they’d be like, what’s your relationship? Who is that? I mean, fair enough,

they need to find out, but at the same time, experiencing that again and again, it builds up. So, when you lived in South Korea for a while, did you experience that feeling, or did those types of comments not occur? It was actually interesting because I went with a few other girls—one from India and three from the UK. It was kind of reversed due to this fixation on a white girl with bright skin and blonde hair. They ended up attracting a peculiar kind of attention from people, often being stopped in the streets. My friend, who looks like a doll, was frequently asked to take photos. That’s completely different from my experience, though, the only thing I encountered was that people assumed I was Korean or thought I spoke Korean. Then I’d like clearly show them I couldn’t, but they continued speaking to me in their language. So, when you spoke to them in English, were they surprised? I think it’s a funny mixture, as I can understand their body language, which is quite similar to Japan. I believe the first impression I give off is very Korean. However, when I started speaking to them, they often asked, ‘Where are you actually from?’ When people ask you where you are from, what do you say? I tell them the whole story, saying that I am half Japanese and half Romanian, but I’m from Switzerland.

226

JAPAN When you were growing up, did you have a mix of both your parents’ cultures at home? Did they incorporate it a lot into your life? Yeah absolutely. I think a big part is food, both my parents cook a lot, so I think that was the biggest kind of cultural integration in our household, and then, like, different celebrations. What kind of celebrations do you have? So we’re Christian. We celebrate Christmas and Easter. In Romania, we also have name celebrations, specifically for religious names. For instance, Saint Mary’s Day for my name, Maria. There are certain days like that. In Japan, we celebrate New Year, which is quite significant. It’s primarily about the New Year. There are other festivals, but it’s challenging to celebrate them when you’re outside Japan.

227

What is the common religion in Japan? It’s a mixture of things. Mainly, it’s Buddhists, but there is a religion called Shintoism that is linked to Buddhism. Additionally, there’s a Christian community as well.

chitecture, all of it. What do you think? I think there is a lot they do that works really well. They’re great at efficiency and love things to be structured. However, because of this, there are certain practices they have been following for a long time Are Japan and Korea similar in that have not really been imsome ways? proved. They‘re definitely similar in terms of how you act in society Some aspects, I don’t think and, in certain places, the way you experience as a tourist, you behave. One thing about but if you live there or are from the subways in both Korea there, you’ll notice that many and Japan. You don’t speak, it’s government systems are rathvery quiet. You rarely use your er old-fashioned, and not in a phone to call people, and you positive way. don’t eat there. I remember this very clearly because I immedi- Also, they have rules, they do ately embodied that behaviour, love rules, and people tend to but my friends, understanda- follow them somewhat blindbly, weren’t aware of that social ly at times. Therefore, when norm. It was an interesting ex- something isn’t working or perience. when there are issues that require advocacy, people often Regarding Japan, do you no- don’t do much about it. So tice a significant difference it‘s an interesting mix of situin the people, their manner- ations. isms, and how they go about things? They usually seem to do everything well. The environment, the society, the ar-

2228 28

229

230

UNIVERSITY I wanted to ask a little about what you study at university, Fine Art. What does that involve, what does it look like, and what do you do? The course, in general, is quite flexible regarding what one can do. I specifically focus on sculpture, which is somewhat of an umbrella term, as it encompasses anything that is physical or three-dimensional. However, people engage in a wide range of activities, there are many painters, but there is also digital work and performance. Half of the course involves creating, while the other half is theory-based, which entails much research, theory, reading, and writing to support our practical work. What made you want to go into that? Have you always been creative? I’ve always thought... I could never see myself doing a nine-to-five job. Art, particularly visual art, has been the thing that stuck with me throughout my life. What did you like to do when you were a kid? Did you enjoy different kinds of creative activities? Yeah, it was kind of everything, drawing, painting, jewellery-making, card-making, makeup,

231

and nails. I thought I would regularly change my career. After graduation, what kinds of jobs could you pursue into? Um, it’s quite broad, to be honest. Realistically, not everyone is going to become an artist and be able to sustain that lifestyle. However, the way the course is designed allows you to develop skills in a variety of areas. I think the main avenues include education, continuing research or a research-led career, gallery work, curation, or being an artist. Do you have an idea of what you want to do after university? So, like I said, I‘ll probably be in the UK for a few years, either continuing to study or trying to get a job related to gallery work or being a technician. So, things that are more physical or where there’s a direct connection to artwork. What are you doing now at university? Are you working on a final major project? Yeah.

232

What is the project about? I don’t know what form it will take right now, but I’ve been doing a lot with digital media. Recently, I completed a project that’s essentially a video using clips I found online. This was the latest thing I worked on. I’ve been focusing a lot on languages and translation, exploring how the act of translating something results in a loss during the process. That’s been a significant area of interest for me, as well as a bit of coding—translating language into code and examining the relationship between digital and analogue forms.

233

234

How do you feel now about Bournemouth? Do you feel the same as when you arrived here? Did you like Bournemouth? Did you visit before you came? What did you think? I came to visit, already aware that I was coming here. I didn’t see much, I think I just saw the campus, and it seemed cute to me. After being here for a while, my experience has definitely changed quite a lot—not necessarily for the better or the worse. I had a lot more fun at the beginning, which mainly had to do with living alone for the first time. However, I also feel that Bournemouth has deteriorated a bit, mainly due to the cost of living and things closing down. But again, it hasn’t truly worsened my experience. Moving into a flat has been a different experience that I‘ve really enjoyed, particularly living with friends. Building a community at university and forming friendships have undoubtedly made things a lot better.

235

Did you notice any cultural differences when moving to the UK from Switzerland? I definitely think that it’s much more diverse here, with a variety of different people. I believe we’re very privileged to have such an inclusive community at AUB. The various kinds of stories you encounter around town are really comforting for me — for instance,

going to a shop that sells Romanian or Japanese items. Moreover, the language schools they have here, and all the different languages you hear, are so lovely. So, I think that’s a cultural difference in a positive sense. People here seem a bit less polite, though I find it difficult to explain.

Do you have any like traditional clothes or cultural clothes, in Switzerland, Japan or Romania? Yeah, to be honest, I’ve never really experienced Swiss tradition. I have encountered aspects of it, but not to the extent of having my own Swiss clothing.

You can often read someone’s thoughts compared to places like Switzerland or Japan, where people tend to maintain a facade. I believe it depends on who you speak to, as I also think people here are polite — very polite, in fact — but not in the same way.

Japan and Romania, on the other hand, have distinct traditional garments. Japan has various styles, which depend on the festival or event you are attending. The Kimono is particularly well-known, and it is worn at different celebrations, including weddings. Some people do wear it regularly, but I don’t get many opportunities to wear a Kimono in my day-to-day life.

Take Switzerland, for example, in my little town, you greet everyone. You walk past someone and say hello, even if you don’t know them, it’s just something you do. Did you learn more British slang or phrases by coming here? Or were you already quite into British culture? I was a little bit, because as a child, I would watch BBC programmes—not just BBC News, but the children’s shows. So, I grew up watching those. I think that actually helped, and when I came here, I didn’t really experience a huge culture shock. However, I have definitely picked up some things, particularly regarding small talk and how I greet people.

In Romania, traditional clothing seems easier to wear casually. The full outfit typically includes embroidered shirts, and for women, it consists of long skirts, a little vest, and sometimes a small hat, all of which are beautifully embroidered. Craftsmanship plays a significant role there, with most of the making being done by women in rural areas, representing a crucial part of Romanian tradition. I actually own quite a few of those embroidered shirts. ered shirts.

236

ROMANIA Do you see diversity in Romanian society? How do you feel when you’re there? Do you feel like you are part of the community? Absolutely not. I think out of all places, I feel most out of place there. And ever since I was a child, people are just like, ‘What are you?’ I remember someone asking my mum, we were at a store, and they were like, ‘Where are they from?’ Like, ‘What are they?’ I think I feel most out of place there because I look so different. But then I know what people are saying. So I can speak to people, but people assume immediately that I can‘t speak the language. When they start talking to you, what do they say? It’s kind of funny because it’s kind of fun to surprise people. So last summer, I went and I ordered something in fluent Romanian. And the guy was like, oh, ‘I did not expect that’. I believe fewer people are relocating to and within those countries. The diversity does not match that of the UK, Iceland, or Western countries in general. I think that because they aren’t as economically developed, there isn’t a specific desire to

237

go there. I mean, many Romanians leave, so it is definitely strange for people to experience that. Romanian people are very open, they have no filter. It’s quite the opposite of Japan, you can tell exactly what they’re thinking and feeling. However, at the same time, they are very genuine. When you get to know them, you can build a really strong relationship with people there. That’s why, when you’re clearly different, you can tell that people think you’re different.

ple are polite, but they maintain a barrier. There’s a distinct distance between them and you. In contrast, in Romania, people are quite genuine about their feelings. This can make them appear quite rude or impolite, however, that’s because they treat you— I don’t know— with a closer distance. There are fewer boundaries between people. In this way, it’s easier to become close to someone. For instance, when you greet someone— perhaps not a stranger but a mutual friend or family— you kiss them on the cheek or hug them, there’s definitely a sense of physical touch. In Japan, you would never do that, and while it might be acceptable in Switzerland, it’s not typically done. You wouldn’t think of doing that instinctively in Romania. However, that’s something you naturally do.

Are they ever rude to you? Sometimes, as I’ve walked down the street numerous times, people have said in Romanian something like, ‘Oh, look at those like Chinese people’. And we all turn around like we understand what they’re saying. So, there have been things like that, but again, it has gone better. But most of the time, people are just una- It’s like the moment you‘ve gotware. ten to know someone, and you immediately feel that bond. It Would you say that, in Roma- could be anyone. Or, if you walk nia, Switzerland, and Japan, into a shop and speak to somethere are cultural differences one, it feels as if you’ve known in terms of people’s manners them for ages. This instant conand how they talk? Do you nection makes it much easier to think it‘s different in every develop a community. place? Absolutely. I believe that in Switzerland and Japan, peo-

238

When you go to Romania, are you based in a city? Yes, usually when I go there, my family has a place in a city, and my grandma lives in a more rural area just outside of it. That region is mountainous, so it has a little bit of everything. What are some foods from Romania and Japan that you have? Um, there’s a lot. In Romania, there’s a significant variety of soup and meat, depending on the region, it’s either meat or fish. Because we’re in the mountain forest region, meat, reminiscent of hunter food, is prevalent. There are plenty of hearty items to keep you warm, such as cheese and an abundance of fresh vegetables— that sort of thing. Then Japanese cuisine is a bit hard to define, it encompasses everything. I mean, obviously, it includes fish, sushi, noodles, and soups again, along with many small vegetable dishes.

239

okay to do or not to do in general? That is a very difficult place to describe in words because, ultimately, the core of people’s beliefs is distinctly Japanese. It seems—though I’m not sure if this is a stereotype—that many people hold these underlying Japanese values. However, there are also many individuals devoted to other cultures. Certain groups of people don’t merely appropriate culture, they genuinely embody other cultures. It’s quite challenging to criticise this. I know there’s a subculture within Japan that is obsessed with Mexico, although I’m not well versed in the specific subculture within Mexico itself.

Where does that come from? I don’t know. I don’t know how it has developed. I think part of it probably has to do with the fact that it’s an island, so they’re very protective of their own values and beliefs. Yet, at the same time, they have to import other cultures willingly. For example, US culture is quite widespread in Japan, partly because of the war and similar events. You’d see many Westernised clothing stores, for instance, that sell US Navy jackets and similar items.

Do you also have various types of food, including different cuisines from restaurants, such as Mexican food? Yeah, I would say, I think. I mean, I’m a bit biased, but I think Japan is really good in that area. I don’t think there Nevertheless, it’s difficult to are many other countries that criticise because their entire do so many different cuisines lives revolve around this cul- well. Like, really well. ture. So, it’s not a matter of appropriation, it’s about embodying it. Hence, it’s reflected in every aspect of their lives—not Are any parts of Japan more just in style, but in a more proWesternised? What are peo- found way. ple’s opinions, and what‘s

240

Do you see yourself living in Japan again?

241

I definitely want to experience living in both Romania and Japan, just for myself, specifically Japan, because I don’t know the language. I’ve always told myself that one day, I will live there, mostly to learn the language and to discover that part of my identity. So yeah, that‘s what I see myself doing in the future. In the near future, I’ll probably be in the UK for a few years, either continuing my studies or trying to secure a job that relates to gallery work or being a technician. So, I’m looking for opportunities that are more hands-on or have a direct connection to artwork.

242

243

244

Do you ever feel like your identity is somewhat elusive or that you feel a bit lost when you were growing up or even now? As you mentioned, you don’t really know where home is. Have you ever experienced those kinds of struggles with your identity?

245

Yeah, all the time, I don’t think I’ll ever not feel it. I also believe that’s why I create the art that I do, it all kind of goes back to this. In a way, being from so many different places and not being attached to one place can be a positive thing. You know, you’re able to adapt and move without the feeling of missing something. But at the same time, not having a place to return to is a significant thing to deal with. The mixture of looking like I’m from a place but not speaking their language and then speaking the language of a place but not looking like them, that combination is also a bit tricky. I think the biggest thing is accepting the fact that I’ll never be truly integrated into either one.

246

When you‘re in Japan, do you feel that people welcome people who don’t speak Japanese? Yes, I mean, they’re definitely open, and you don’t feel as though they’re judging. However, the issue in Japan is that not many people speak English. They might not speak any other languages either. So it’s quite difficult. I think I hold this expectation for myself because I look like them. I sometimes feel a bit embarrassed that I can’t speak the language, and failing to meet someone’s expectations is rather challenging. Moving on to your experience as an exchange student in South Korea, how was that? It was quite overwhelming. There were very few moments when I wasn’t occupied. I was either working extensively on my unit assignments or trying to engage as much as possible. Yes, we had some written work from AUB, and we also needed to create materials for the university in Korea. Experiencing the work ethic of people there is astonishing. During the last two weeks I was there, I was in university from around 9 PM until 7 AM, and then I had class at 10 AM. For those final two weeks, that was simply my life. Is the work ethic in Japan similar? It’s akin to South Korea. It’s as if neither country understands what free time truly means, like having time for oneself. It seems that one either works exceptionally hard or parties equally hard. The moment people finish work, they typically go out and get quite drunk. I think it’s their way of dealing with the stress.

247

248

FASHION Let’s delve into fashion a bit, are you interested in fashion? Do you enjoy dressing up and styling yourself? Yes, I do. How would you describe your style? I think about 90% of my things are second-hand or vintage. My style is a bit of everything, it’s a little all over the place. However, I’m really into 70s silhouettes and denim. I consider myself a denim connoisseur. I prefer vintage denim. I’m not a huge brand person, but there are certain Japanese brands I really like.

249

Have any of your cultures influenced your clothing style or identity? Also, where does the interest in the 70s come from? I don’t know. But I think a part of it is, like, second-hand and, also getting, like, hand-me-downs, because it’s linked to the history of the clothing, and it’s not so much linked to a certain place. I think that reflects me as a person, and because of, like, the strongest connection I have to culture is through my family. So I think the items of clothing I

have and wear, or the ones I me. But not in a visual arts like the most, have that fam- context, really. ily connection. Are they interested in different cultures? Otherwise, I think denim, Yeah, I mean, I think they particularly Japanese den- have to be. My dad still im, is something that I love. travels a lot. He has ever It’s a prized possession of since he was a teenager, he mine and also very function- has had an interest in Rusal. When I‘m in the studio sia. He’s a bit strange, but working with wood or wire, he knows Russian fluently. it proves to be really dura- He watches really odd Rusble, which is another aspect sian films. He’s just quirky, I have to consider regularly. but, like, yeah, there’s that. Both my parents have lived In Romania, is there any in Hungary and Egypt. My specific type of fashion? mum studied Hungarian at Are there any specific university because Romabrands or trends that are nia and Hungary are neighparticularly popular? bours, and where we live When it comes to Romania, in Romania is right on the it’s more about traditional border. clothing. There isn’t really a specific brand or trend. Are there any other things However, I do like to wear you are interested in? traditional clothing when- I‘m really into music and ever I can, and I enjoy incor- cooking. So, I find shopping porating little details into an fun because of the route I outfit. take. It’s like, I start at LIDL, but then I go to Makkah, Are your parents creatives which is a Middle Eastern as well? store. They have a huge Not really. They’re both very range of things, and that’s language-oriented, so per- where I get my vegetables. s. haps, in that sense, they And then I go to Seoul Plaare creative, as their brains za for Asian stuff, so I have work similarly. They both a bit of fun there. either studied language or know a lot of languages, which has probably affected

250

Have you ever experienced any form of discrimination or racism in Bournemouth or anywhere else in the UK? I think I’ve been very lucky because I have heard of instances where people have just been… things have happened that are not okay. And I think honestly, because I’m fluent in English, I think that makes a huge difference. Also, the fact that people are aware that they can communicate with me… it also like reassures me because if anything were to happen, then I can speak and stand up for myself, but, you know, if you’re coming here and you don’t speak the language fluently, it’s like you can’t defend yourself, you can’t speak to people, you know. So, I think that it is a big difference. Maybe the only issue is that certain people have preferences for Asian women. It’s as if they have a very skewed perception of Asian women, you can tell when they think that way. You notice it when they approach you.

251

252

253

254

Photography: Layla Knutt & Maria’s archival images.

LOKAORÐ

‘Final Words’

My hope for this project is that readers and those who engage with ZÝNI develop a deeper understanding and empathy for others and the unknown, fostering thoughtful dialogue, reflection, and positive change. Together, we can create a community where biases are challenged and everyone is valued.

255

256

‘It is not our differences that divide us. It is our inability to recognise, accept, and celebrate those differences.’ - Audre Lorde 257

258

SPECIAL THANKS TO INTERVIEWEES AND MODELS CHANEL BJÖRK STURLUDÓTTIR OMASAINT LENYA RÚN TAHA KARIM DANI SALDANHA GRACE ACHIENG SAYOKO MARIA AOYAMA PHOTOGRAPHERS LAYLA KNUTT DAISY MERMAID JOHNSON IMOGENE GATHERER OTHER HELP LILY BLUBELL WYATT

259 257

260

261

262

263

264

A COLLECTION OF STORIES THAT HONOUR DIVERSE IDENTITIES AND RICH CULTURAL BACKGROUNDS

265