COOK A ONE-POT WINNER
NO MESS, NO STRESS, MIDWEEK MEALS.
Curried coconut lentil soup • Next level goulash • Miso apple & pecan tarte tatin
From spicy street eats to sizzling showstoppers
L ATE SUMMER DINING
• Fiery prawn smash burgers • Tongue-tingling Sichuan wings • Soothing ginger & cardamom nectarines
MAKE THE MOST OF THE SUNSHINE • Moreish beef short-rib tacos • Gorgeous Greek roast chicken
e ra gu
September 2025
Bring the heat
September 2025
STUDENT SPECIAL Easy, tasty wins for uni friends BATCH IT UP Prep ahead for dinner in 30
Your new favourite bakes
Create a
in eb rg ya k o r sm u o h t buzz w
£6.75
Yes, you can afford to eat organic (p123)
Coffee morning squash & pecan cake Air fryer jammy pastry pockets Rosh Hashanah apple crumble loaf
Welcome to I
September 3
f there’s one thing my family love about my cooking, it’s the spice. It’s as essential to my kitchen as butter, salt and onions. And this month’s Main Event (p9) celebrates, not just fiery heat, but the full spectrum: smoky paprika, citrussy sumac, warming cinnamon, earthy cumin, the whole flavourpacked spice rack. From Sabrina Ghayour’s punchy harissa aubergine ragu to Brin Pirathapan’s lamb Milanese with curried marinara, these recipes are bold, bright and perfect for the transition from summer to autumn. There are also proven health reasons to love spices. Turn to page 66 to find out how they can help reduce inflammation and regulate blood sugar. My youngest son, who heads off to uni this month, will miss my fiery cooking and feeding himself will be quite the learning curve. Luckily, we’ve got him – and every student – covered with Beck Johnson’s budget-friendly meals (p40) to fuel study and keep flat-shares in harmony. Let’s hope he’ll learn a thing or two!
LISTEN UP! THE GOOD FOOD PODCAST WITH SAMUEL GOLDSMITH
Keith Kendrick, Group magazines editor @keithk_goodfood
of my faves from this month’s issue SPICED PRAWN SMASH BURGERS
Ixta Belfrage delivers serious flavour with her homemade spice mix featuring urucum, a punchy Brazilian seed (p14).
CARROT & ONION BHAJI BURGERS Talking of burgers, Suzanne Mulholland’s all-veg version is crunchy, golden and brilliant for batch-cooking (p36).
ROAST SOUVLAKISPICED CHICKEN Our food editor Ailsa Burt leads our late summer dining feature, alongside Emily Scott and Thomasina Miers (p86).
COOK THE COVER (p10) RECIPE
Sabrina Ghayour PHOTOGRAPH
Jonathan Gregson FOOD STYLIST
Discover mouthwatering recipes, expert tips, and entertaining confessions on the Good Food podcast, hosted by Samuel Goldsmith. Now on YouTube!
Amy Kinnear
PROP STYLIST
Hannah Wilkinson SHOOT DIRECTOR
Rachel Bayly
Friends of Good Food MELISSA HEMSLEY Chicken, coconut & green bean adobo. “Everyone with a Filipino mum thinks hers is the best” – here’s Melissa’s favourite adobo (p104).
BECK JOHNSON Gochujang tuna melt. The creator behind Beck Bites Back champions bold student-friendly cooking. Her umamirich tuna melt is a case in point (p42).
SABRINA GHAYOUR Harissa aubergine ragu. This month’s cover star is Sabrina’s genius all-purpose aubergine dish. Serve it over pasta, rice or bread, or bake it into a pie (p10).
T U R N TO PAG E 3 8 TO G E T A C O O KS P RO F E SS I O N A L SAU T É PA N W H E N YO U SU B SC R I B E For subscription queries, please call 03330 162 124 or visit buysubscriptions.com/help SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 3
September 2025 MAIN EVENT 9 BRING THE HEAT Try our tongue-tingling showstoppers plus all you need to know about spices
EASY 24 MIDWEEK MEALS One-pan dinners to save washing up 32 MONDAY MASH-UP Make a dhal-inspired soup with crunchy naan croutons 34 FILL THE FREEZER Stock up on quick-to-prepare recipes from the Batch Lady 40 STUDENT COOKING Impress new friends at uni with these easy, impressive recipes
56
78 HOMEGROWN What to do with your harvest and what to plant now
COOK SMART 46 BACK-TO-SCHOOL BAKES Air fryer recipes the kids will love
80 DISCOVER IT NOW Make the most of damsons while at their peak
50 STORECUPBOARD HEROES Turn a tin of anchovies into dinner
WEEKEND
52 PREP AHEAD 84 LATE SUMMER DINING Make midweek cooking a breeze by Enjoy one more al fresco feast prepping a few base recipes on Sunday
HEALTH 62 FOODS FOR MENOPAUSE Dr Chintal Patel shares dietary advice 66 THE BENEFITS OF SPICES How spices can boost not just flavour but your overall wellbeing too
SEASONAL
THROUGHOUT THIS ISSUE Look out for our planet-friendlier badge as we help you to make informed choices on how to shop and cook more sustainably 123 GOING ORGANIC How and why to shop organic without breaking the bank 129 CLIMATE HEROES Meet the dairy farmer commmitted to organic milk
71 AT ITS BEST Shining a spotlight on fresh aubergines, plums and apples
100
OUR AWARDS BSME Awards 2024
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BSME Awards 2023 The Readly Award Good Food What’s Your Perfect Comfort Food? (October 2022)
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BSME Awards 2021 Editor of the Year, Food & Drink Lily Barclay
PPA Awards 2021 Media Brand of the Year Good Food
Why you can trust 98 CROWD-PLEASING TRAYBAKES Spread the joy at a charity bake sale or simply enjoy a slice with a cuppa 104 MY FAVOURITE DISH Melissa Hemsley on ultra-processed food and her Filipino chicken adobo
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107 MIX A COCKTAIL Put a fresh spin on an old fashioned
IN THE KNOW 110 LEARN SOMETHING NEW Become a pasta-making pro with expert advice from chef Theo Randall 112 NEXT LEVEL Take a comforting goulash to new heights 114 BOOKS FOR COOKS Top titles to look out for this month, plus an aromatic Goan fish curry recipe 117 OUT AND ABOUT Events across the UK in September
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119 5 OF THE BEST Baking essentials for star bakers
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133 WHAT TO EAT IN... Must-try street foods in Chiang Mai 134 THREE OF THE BEST Affordable hotels in the UK capital
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EVERY MONTH 7 RECIPE INDEX Find every recipe in this issue 38 SUBSCRIBER CLUB Enjoy member benefits and savings 97 NEXT MONTH Look ahead to our October issue
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138 CAKE TIN A cake to celebrate Rosh Hashanah
READER OFFERS For more great savings, visit goodfood.com/reader-offers l Enjoy a seaside getaway at Rick Stein’s St Petroc’s p106 l Journey through a European winter wonderland p108 l Take a trip to Bordeaux and meet Tom Kitchin p118 l Discover the beauty of Italy and Tenerife p122 l Escape to the coast of Portugal and Italy p128 l Follow the Mekong – Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam p132
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SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 5
index
40 make it, snap it, post it ay @goodfoodeveryd ay #goodfoodeveryd
INSTANT RECIPE FINDER 64
BREAKFAST & BRUNCH
Banana bread baked oats 45 Cinnamon porridge with baked bananas 67
MEAT
Air fryer sticky pork tacos with plum & chilli salsa 74 Lamb Milanese with curried marinara 16 Meatball & chickpea yellow coconut curry with rice & pickled red cabbage 55 Next level beef goulash 112 Roasted aubergine with crispy lamb & curried turmeric yogurt 72 Shakshuka meatballs 25 Short-rib tacos with anise, ancho & chocolate 91 Spiced meatballs 52
POULTRY
Chicken, coconut & green bean adobo 105 Coconut rice with prawn stir-fry 56 Gochujang & Sichuan pepper chicken wings 12 Piri-piri chicken & corn pasta 26 Roast souvlaki-spiced chicken 86 Speedy turkey wraps with pickled red cabbage 54
FISH & SEAFOOD
Anchovy red pesto pasta with crispy garlic pangrattato 51 Aromatic prawn smash burgers 14 Calamari with crispy sage 95 Fish moilee 115 Fisherman’s shakshuka 95 Gochujang tuna melt 42 Lemon & parmesan breaded cod 36 Lemony orzo with tuna, avocado, spring onions & mint 96 Trout caesar salad 43 Turmeric ginger & coconut fish curry 68 White fish, red pepper & tomato traybake 30
recipes
VEGETARIAN MAINS
Atis-style Azteca salad 40 Carrot & onion bhaji burgers 36 Charred broccoli pilaf 29 Confit chilli tomatoes on tzatziki 86 Curried coconut lentil soup with naan croutons 32 MAKE THE COVER Harissa aubergine ragu 10 Homemade pasta 111 Moroccan harira 68 One-pan mushroom stroganoff with tagliatelle 26
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Tempeh & chickpea dhal wrap 44 Tempeh burgers with caramelised onions 65 The perfect pomodoro 111 Tomato & herby cheese gnocchi 36 Vegetarian adobo 105 Whole cauliflower tikka masala with cheesy naans 61
STARTERS, SIDES & DRINKS
Apple butter 79 Bourbon & apple fizz 107 Confit aubergines 79 Jacket potato board 60 Pickled red cabbage salad 53 Plum & earl grey compote 79 Stewed damsons 81 Sticky onion, blue cheese & bitter leaf salad with chipotle honey 92 Yellow coconut curry sauce 53
BAKING & DESSERTS
Air fryer jam & custard pastry pockets 48 Air fryer peanut butter & choc chip cookies 48 Air fryer soda bread lunchbox rolls 48 Apple, honey & cinnamon crumble loaf cake 138 Banana & chocolate chip traybake 101 Camomile poached peaches & Greek yogurt 88 Coconut & cardamom traybake 100 Damson & apple crumble 81 Ginger & cardamom poached nectarines 18 Guinness, beetroot & chocolate cake 102 Miso pecan tarte tatin 76 No-churn café de olla semifreddo 92 Spiced squash, maple & pecan traybake 100 Vegan Good Food magazine is available in both audio and electronic formats from National Talking Newspapers and Magazines. For more information, please contact National Talking Newspapers and Magazines, National Recording Centre, Heathfield, East Sussex TN21 8DB; email info@ tnauk.org.uk; or call 01435 866102. If you are enquiring on behalf of someone who has trouble with their sight, please consult them first.
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 7
MAKE GOOD FOOD
GREAT!
Find us in the Table Sauces & Condiments aisle Discover the rest of the range at:
@newmansownuk
Newman’s Own UK
main event
e h t g Brin
heat
Tantalise your tast showstoppers, fro ebuds with these spiced wings to hot, zing m tongue-tingling chicken y prawn burgers photographs CHEL SEA BL OXSOME
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 9
Harissa aubergine ragu What I really love about this dish is you can use it in so many different ways. Throw it over pasta — the Sicilians love pasta with aubergine — or you can just have it with bread, like naan, or rice, or even fill a pie with it. Sabrina Ghayour SERVES 6-8 PREP 30 mins COOK 1 hr EASY ❄
1 tbsp garlic granules 1 tbsp dried oregano 2 tsp paprika 1 tsp fennel seeds 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground cumin 4 tbsp olive oil 4 large aubergines, cut into 2.5cm discs then into cubes roughly the same size For the sauce 2 tbsp olive oil 2 onions, thinly sliced 6 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 heaped tbsp rose harissa 700g jar passata 1 heaped tsp caster sugar To serve pappardelle, rice, crusty bread, flatbreads or feta (optional)
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6 and line a large baking tray, with baking parchment. Mix the
spices together in a large bowl with the oil. Add the aubergines and toss well to coat using your hands.Roast for 30-35 mins until browned and fork-tender. Set aside. 2 Meanwhile, for the sauce, heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook for 8-10 mins with a pinch of salt until softened and translucent but not coloured. Add the garlic and cook for 1-2 mins, stirring regularly, until fragrant. Next, add the harissa, passata, sugar and a generous seasoning of salt and pepper, and stir well. Reduce the heat to medium and cook without a lid for 30 mins. 3 Once the sauce has reduced, taste for seasoning and adjust accordingly – you’ll need generous seasoning because you will be adding a lot of aubergines. 4 Add the aubergines to the pan, stir and cook for a further 10-15 mins, then season to taste. You can always increase the
British-Iranian chef and food writer Sabrina Ghayour is a self-taught cook and best-selling author. She specialises in Persian and modern Middle Eastern flavours. Her latest book is Persiana Easy. @sabrinaghayour
10 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
volume of sauce by placing a lid on the pan or adding a little warm water until you have your desired consistency. I like it quite jammy and concentrated. 6 Serve with pasta, rice, crusty bread or flatbreads, or top with feta and eat as a standalone dish. Will keep in the fridge for up to six days. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • fibre • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING (8) 159 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 1g • carbs 11g • sugars 9g • fibre 7g • protein 4g • salt 0.15g
Sabrina’s tip If serving with pasta, to make the sauce extra silky, stir in a generous knob of butter at the end and toss with the pappardelle.
tip Take this dish to the next level by making your own pasta. Turn to page 110 for how to do it.
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SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 11
Gochujang & Sichuan pepper chicken wings Tongue-tingly, sweet and spicy – these wings combine the heat of Korean gochujang with the citrussy numbing sensation of Sichuan peppercorns to create a uniquely addictive flavour combination. Da-Hae West SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 1 hr MORE EFFORT
1kg chicken wings 3 tbsp baking powder 1 tsp garlic granules For the sauce 2 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for brushing 1 tbsp Sichuan peppercorns 1-2 garlic cloves, crushed 10g fresh ginger, grated 1 tbsp gochujang 2½ tbsp honey 1 tbsp soy sauce 2 tbsp rice vinegar
1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 8. Cut the chicken wings in half at the joints and discard the tips if they are still attached. Using kitchen paper, pat the wings dry, then toss in a bowl with the baking powder, garlic granules, 1 tsp salt and 1 /4 tsp ground black pepper. 2 Set a wire rack over a foil-lined roasting tray. Brush the wire rack with a little vegetable oil to prevent the wings from sticking. Arrange the
wings, skin-side up, on the wire rack. Make sure to space them so that the wings do not overlap. Bake for 1 hr, turning the wings over every 20 mins. 3 Crush the peppercorns using a pestle and mortar. Put a large frying pan over a medium heat and toast the crushed peppercorns for 2 mins, then tip into a bowl and set aside. 4 Return the frying pan to the hob with 2 tbsp oil over a medium heat. Add the garlic and ginger and fry for 2 mins until the garlic has softened. Add the gochujang, honey, and soy sauce. Continue to stir for 2 mins until the sauce has thickened slightly. Stir in the crushed peppercorns, rice vinegar and 2 tbsp water or enough to loosen the sauce. Set aside until the wings are cooked. 5 Once the wings are cooked, add the wings to the sauce and toss until coated. Transfer to a large serving platter and serve immediately with plenty of napkins. PER SERVING 489 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 5g • carbs 22g • sugars 15g • fibre 1g • protein 36g • salt 4.94g
Da-Hae West is a Korean cookery teacher and author of two cookbooks. She has a wealth of experience promoting Korean food, working closely with the Korean Cultural Centre and Korean Tourism Organisation. @dahaewest
12 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
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Aromatic prawn smash burgers These crispy prawn patties pack a serious punch, thanks to a homemade toasted spice blend featuring one of my favourite Brazilian ingredients, urucum, the seeds of a red peppery berry native to the Amazon. Served with a zesty coriander, lime and onion salad and finished with mango jam, this burger ticks all the sweet, sour and salty boxes. Ixta Belfrage SERVES 2 PREP 30 mins COOK 40 mins EASY
40g mayo 40g mango chutney
900g roasting potatoes, skin on and scrubbed clean, cut into 1cm thick chips 2 tbsp olive oil For the spice blend 2 tsp coriander seeds 2 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp black peppercorns 1 tsp urucum seeds (see tip, right) 1 tsp fenugreek seeds 1 small cinnamon stick (2g) 1½ tsp sumac ½ tsp garlic powder ½ tsp paprika For the prawn burgers 300g peeled raw king prawns 60g mango chutney 50g pancetta cubes or lardons 10g spice blend 1 tsp toasted sesame oil 1 tbsp neutral oil, plus extra for shaping and for the spatula To serve 2 brioche burger buns, halved 20g picked coriander 1 red chilli, finely chopped ½ white onion, halved and thinly sliced 1 lime, half juiced, half cut into wedges
1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7. Line a large, flat baking tray with baking parchment. Toss the potatoes with the oil and 1 tsp fine sea salt and spread them out into an even layer on the tray. 2 Roast for 25 mins in the middle of the oven, then stir and bake for another 5-10 mins, or until golden brown and crisp. 3 Meanwhile, make the spice blend. Add the coriander and cumin seeds, peppercorns, urucum, fenugreek seeds and cinnamon to a medium pan on a medium heat. Toast until fragrant, about 2-3 mins. Transfer to a spice grinder and blitz until coarsely ground (I prefer a little texture, rather than a fine powder). Stir in the sumac, garlic powder and paprika. 4 Tip all the ingredients for the burgers into a food processor apart from the oil, add 1/2 tsp fine salt and pulse to get a thick, sticky and slightly textured paste. With oily hands, divide into four portions, around 100g each. 5 Heat a large, non-stick frying pan on a medium-high heat and toast the
Food writer Ixta’s style of cooking draws inspiration from three countries – Brazil (where her mum is from), Italy (where she lived as a child) and Mexico (where her granddad lived). She worked at the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen for five years and has written several cookbooks. @ixta.belfrage
14 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
buns until golden brown, then transfer to the oven to keep warm. Pour in the 1 tbsp oil and increase the heat to high. Oil your spatula (to ensure the patties don’t stick to it). Once the pan is very hot, add the prawn mix two mounds at a time and squash with the spatula to get thin patties, approx 10cm wide. Fry for 2 mins on one side, and 3 mins on the other until fully cooked, crisp and browned. Transfer to a warm oven while you fry the next two. 6 Mix the coriander, chilli and onion together with the lime juice. Spread the mayo and mango chutney over the base of the buns. Top with two patties per bun, then the coriander, chilli and onion, then finish with the top of the bun. Serve with the lime wedges and chips on the side. GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • vit c • iron PER SERVING 1,246 kcals • fat 49g • saturates 9g • carbs 147g • sugars 37g • fibre 12g • protein 47g • salt 7.54g
Ixta’s tip You can buy the seeds online (search for ‘annatto seeds’). If you can’t get hold of them, double the amounts of sumac and sweet paprika.
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Lamb Milanese with curried marinara This is how I like to cook, taking ideas from Europe and the western world and putting in other flavours that I love. This recipe takes the journey of a tomato-based curry but cooked with an Italian influence. Brin Pirathapan SERVES 2 PREP 20 mins COOK 40 mins MORE EFFORT ❄ Milanese and marinara only
60g rocket, to serve For the curried marinara 2 tbsp olive oil ½ tsp black mustard seeds ½ tsp fennel seeds 10 fresh curry leaves 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 10g ginger, finely chopped 1 red onion, finely sliced ½ tbsp roasted Sri Lankan curry powder 1 tbsp tamarind paste 250g baby tomatoes, cut in half 4 vine-ripened tomatoes, cut into quarters For the salsa verde 20g coriander leaves 10g mint leaves 10 fresh curry leaves 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped 1 lime, zested and juiced 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 4 anchovies, drained 1 green chilli (optional) 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 shallot, finely chopped 1 tbsp capers, drained 2 tbsp olive oil
For the lamb Milanese 4 lamb cutlets 100g plain flour 2 eggs, beaten 75g panko breadcrumbs 1 tsp fennel seeds 1 tsp black mustard seeds sunflower oil, for frying
1 Start with the curried marinara. Pour the oil into a large saucepan over medium heat. Once hot, add the mustard and fennel seeds. When the mustard seeds start to spit, add the curry leaves, garlic, ginger and onions. Cook until the onions start to colour and soften, then add the curry powder and tamarind paste. 2 Mix well and cook for a minute before adding all the tomatoes and a few tablespoons of water. Season with a sprinkle of salt, then cook with a lid on over a medium heat for 30-35 mins to allow the tomatoes to soften, stirring intermittently. 3 For the salsa verde, blitz all the ingredients in a food processor with a pinch of salt to a chunky paste. 4 For the lamb, put the cutlets between two large sheets of baking parchment then use a meat
Brin Pirathapan is best known as MasterChef champion 2024. Formerly a veterinary surgeon, Brin is now a food content creator and private dining chef, with many exciting supper clubs and events in the pipeline. @brin.pirathapan
16 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
tenderiser or rolling pin to flatten them out, avoiding the bone. Season with salt and set aside. Take three baking trays and add the flour to one, the beaten eggs to the second and panko to the third. Add a pinch of salt to the panko along with the fennel and mustard seeds. 5 Dip the cutlets, one at a time, in the flour so they have a good coating. Dust off any excess, then dip in the beaten eggs. Flip to ensure both sides are coated, then add the egg-coated cutlets to the panko breadcrumbs to coat. 6 Pour sunflower oil into a large frying pan so it comes about 1cm high. Put on a medium-high heat and once the oil is hot, around 170C, add the breadcrumbed cutlets. Baste the tops with oil as they cook, then turn to cook on the other side. Aim for golden brown on each side, this should take about 2-3 mins per side. Serve up with spoonfuls of the chunky marinara, a drizzle of salsa verde and some rocket. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 1,104 kcals • fat 66g • saturates 20g • carbs 75g • sugars 19g • fibre 10g • protein 47g • salt 2.19g
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Ginger & cardamom poached nectarines These gently spiced nectarines are easy to rustle up, resulting in delicious fruit and a delightful rose syrup, both of which can be enjoyed in many ways (see my tips below). Ozoz Sokoh
12 green cardamom pods 200g granulated sugar 30g fresh ginger, cut into 2cm thick slices and bashed 4 large firm, just-ripe nectarines, washed, halved, and pitted To serve ice cream, whipped cream, clotted cream, or mascarpone (or vegan alternative), to serve
1 Bash the cardamom using a pestle and mortar. Once the seeds have been released, reserve the pods and bash the seeds to a coarse powder. 2 In a wide saucepan (that is large enough to accommodate the halved nectarines in a single layer), combine 625ml water, the sugar, half of the ginger, half of the cardamom pods and crushed seeds, and a pinch of salt. Bring to the boil over a medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves, around 8-10 mins. 3 Reduce the heat to medium-low, and, using a slotted spoon, carefully add the nectarines, cut-side down, to the syrup. Poach for about 3 mins, then gently turn over with the slotted spoon – the syrup will
begin to change colour, turning light pink. Continue poaching for 3-4 mins, or until just soft – a sharp knife in the centre should slip in easily with only a touch of resistance. The skins may also begin to slip off. The cooking time will vary depending on the size and ripeness of the fruit. 4 Using a slotted spoon, transfer the nectarines to a container large enough for both the fruit and the syrup. Leave until cool enough to handle and, if you like, gently remove the skins and discard. 5 Bring the syrup to the boil over a medium-high heat until reduced and somewhat syrupy, about 10 mins. Turn off the heat and stir in the remaining ginger, cardamom seeds and pods. Cover and leave to cool to room temperature. 6 Strain the syrup through a fine-mesh strainer into the container with the nectarines. Cover and chill for at least 30 mins. Will keep chilled for up to three days. Serve the nectarines with syrup either warm, at room temperature, or chilled with your choice of ice cream, cream or mascarpone. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low fat • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 224 kcals • fat 0.3g • saturates none • carbs 51g • sugars 50g • fibre 3g • protein 3g • salt 0.1g
Food writer, author, educator and photographer Ozoz Sokoh writes the Nigerian food blog, Kitchen Butterfly. Ozoz lives in Canada, where she is also a professor of food and tourism studies. @kitchenbutterfly
18 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
Ozoz’s tips • You can use plums, peaches, cherries or your favourite fruits. Adjust cooking times accordingly – smaller, softer fruit will cook in less time; firmer, larges ones will need more time. • Firm, just-ripe fruits are perfect for poaching as they hold their shape well without falling apart. • The sweet syrup brings balance and makes up for the slight tartness of the underripe fruit. • You can serve the nectarines with porridge, custard, and more; and use the leftover syrup as a sweetener, or in drinks.
Shoot director RACHEL BAYLY | Food stylist JESSICA MCINTOSH | Stylist JO HARRIS
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins plus cooling and chilling COOK 30 mins EASY V
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Myth-buster
The secrets you need to know about spices Do spices go off? Are blends just as good as whole? Find out all you need to know about these storecupboard essentials words MALLIKA BASU
F
or something so diminutive, spices carry the weight of history. They’ve shaped the world through trade routes, sparked wars and fuelled empires. Centuries ago, the promise of nutmeg or pepper was enough to send ships across oceans, leading to colonisation and slavery. But in kitchens today, those same spices open a world of possibilities, and cooking without them would be unimaginable. They bring us together, anchoring family recipes and seasoning dishes that bridge divides with ease. They are potent messengers of history, culture and connection. And there’s still so much we get wrong, or don’t know, about them.
seeds need heat to unlock their aroma. Some, like nigella seeds, can get by with a flash of heat to finish. Ground spices burn easily and need the support of oil or liquid to cook. A robust recipe will usually show you when and how to do just that.
• Spices don’t go bad Spices don’t go bad the way milk or bread does. Their flavour comes from essential oils, which fade over time rather than spoil. If you unearth an old jar from the back of a cupboard, don’t rush to bin it. Warm the spice in a dry pan or sizzle it in hot oil and watch it spring back to life.
• Not all spices are equal Their flavour, price and environmental impact vary with the soil they grow in, the quality of the harvest and how they’re produced. Organic spices are often more expensive, but they’re grown without synthetic pesticides and support farming practices that are safer for both people and the planet. Single origin spices go a step further. They’re sourced from one farm or region, with distinct characteristics and the chance to support named growers.
• Form affects function How you use a spice often depends on its shape and state. Whole sspices like cumin or mustard
• Not all spices are warming While we associate spice with heat and warmth, many are naturally cooling. Cumin, fennel and green cardamom are known for their calming, soothing properties. Even chilli, once it gets you perspiring, helps lower your core temperature. That’s partly why spices are completely at home in the cuisines of hot climates.
Mallika is a food writer and cookbook author. She writes an award-nominated newsletter called In Good Taste on food, people and the planet, and is a qualified expert on sustainability. @mallikabasu_
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• Blends reveal their secrets on the label Cheaper fillers like coriander or paprika often top the ingredient list in spice blends, bringing the cost down but also muting the flavour. For a blend with real punch, check that aromatic spices like cardamom, clove or cinnamon show up early and substantially in the list. • Toasting and grinding unlocks magic Ready blends are great shortcuts, but toasting whole spices before grinding is deeply satisfying. Just a minute in a medium hot pan coaxes out their best. A coffee grinder with a detachable bowl makes for easy clean-up (wash thoroughly). You can also buy hand blenders with spice grinder attachments. Make small batches and use them quickly. • Store with care Keep spices away from heat, light, air and moisture. Big jars look lovely on open shelves, but your spices deserve a cool, dark cupboard. Refill small jars as needed, and only buy in bulk if you’re cooking often. Otherwise, they’ll just end up gathering dust in the back of the cupboard.
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Midweek magic Create dishes that take moments and make moments with Bart’s new spice pastes, inspired by five cuisines from around the world
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hile we all love a speedy weeknight meal, saving time in the kitchen shouldn’t have to mean compromising on flavour. That’s why Bart has released a range of versatile, responsibly sourced spice pastes that you can stir into almost any dish or use to enhance coatings and marinades. Each mouthwatering paste takes inspiration from a different world cuisine, with flavours including Mexican Chipotle & Red Pepper, Japanese Sticky Soy & Garlic, Middle Eastern Baharat Spiced Tomato and Mediterranean Lemon, Shallot & Herb. Whichever one you choose, it will allow you to create authentic, delicious meals to share with your loved ones every day of the week, even when you’re short on time. Not sure where to start? Try using the Indianinspired Keralan Spiced Coconut Paste to whip up this rich and creamy coconut fish curry. It’s the perfect midweek meal for the whole family – because Bart believes nothing brings everyone together like a table full of delectable food. Shop Bart’s spice pastes now at Ocado, Morrisons, Amazon and bart.co.uk
Scan the QR code for more recipes
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Fish mappas SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 20 mins EASY 300g basmati rice 1 tbsp sunflower or vegetable oil 2 large onions, sliced 2 garlic cloves, chopped 450g tomatoes, cut into chunks 4 tbsp Bart Keralan Spiced Coconut Paste 400g can coconut milk 4 skinless, boneless pollock fillets or any other sustainably sourced white fish (around 150g each), cut into 4cm chunks ½ small pack coriander, roughly chopped
1 Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil and cook the rice following pack instructions. 2 Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large, wide saucepan over a medium heat and fry the onions for 5-10 mins until softened and starting to colour. Add the garlic and tomatoes and cook for another 2 mins, then stir in the curry paste and fry for 2 more mins. Pour in the coconut milk and bring to a boil. 3 Add the fish to the pan and simmer gently for 5-8 mins until just cooked through. Remove from the heat, sprinkle the coriander over the curry and serve with the rice.
easy recipes for every day
batch cooking Carrot & onion bhaji burgers p36 SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 23
midweek meals
one-pan winners Cut down on the washing-up with these simple meals recipes SAMUEL GOLDSMITH photographs MELISSA REYNOLDS-JAMES
£1.58 per serving
24 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
easy
plan your week SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 45 mins EASY
500g 20% fat beef mince (or half beef, half pork) ½ tsp chilli powder (optional) ½ tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin 1 /2 tbsp olive oil 2 red onions, finely sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed or finely grated 1 red chilli, finely chopped (deseeded if you like) 10g coriander, stalks and leaves chopped separately 1 red pepper, sliced 1 yellow pepper, sliced 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes 75ml natural yogurt crusty bread, to serve (optional)
1 Combine the mince, chilli powder (if using), ground coriander and half the cumin in a bowl and squeeze well with your hands until the meat stays together and doesn’t break apart. Form into 20 meatballs around the size of a walnut. 2 Drizzle the oil into a large lidded shallow pan set over a medium heat. Once hot, fry the meatballs until browned all over, then remove to a plate using a slotted spoon. 3 Tip in the onions and reduce the heat to medium-low. Fry for 8-10 mins until softened but not golden, then stir in the garlic, remaining cumin, chilli and coriander stalks. Cook for a further minute, then stir in the peppers, cooking for 5 mins more. 4 Pour in the chopped tomatoes and cook for 5 mins before adding the meatballs back to the pan and cooking, covered, for 10-15 mins, turning halfway through. Drizzle over the yogurt and scatter over the coriander leaves before serving with crusty bread for scooping. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 440 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 13g • carbs 18g • sugars 16g • fibre 5g • protein 28g •
We know life is busy, so to make things easier we’re sharing this handy cut-out list with everything you need for our midweek meals.
SHOPPI NG L IST FR ESH
STOR ECU PBOA R D
PRODUCE red onions onions garlic cloves red chillies fresh coriander red peppers yellow peppers chestnut mushrooms baby or new potatoes cherry tomatoes broccoli lemon fresh oregano or thyme sprigs parsley
M E AT A N D FISH 500g 20% fat beef mince 4 boneless and skinless chicken thighs 4 frozen white fish fillets
chilli powder ground coriander ground cumin smoked paprika Dijon mustard olive oil vegetable stock chicken stock 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes 400g can cherry tomatoes vegetable or sunflower oil frozen sweetcorn frozen peas basmati rice tagliatelle penne or other short pasta tahini flaked almonds piri piri seasoning
DA I RY natural yogurt 300ml soured cream 125ml double cream butter
Find more midweek meals on the Good Food app Try our app for quick, easy meals your family will love, budget meal plans and more.
salt 0.58g
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 25
Per person costings do not include salt, pepper or oil
Shakshuka meatballs
easy
Piri piri chicken & corn pasta SERVES 4-6 PREP 15 mins COOK 35 mins EASY
400g-500g penne or other short pasta 2 tbsp vegetable or sunflower oil 200g frozen sweetcorn, defrosted 1 onion, finely chopped 4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs roughly chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed or finely grated 11/2 tbsp piri piri seasoning (some brands can be quite spicy so use less if you prefer) 200ml chicken stock 125ml double cream
1 Tip the pasta into a pan of boiling water over a medium-high heat and cook following pack instructions. Drain and set aside. Add the oil to the pan and fry the sweetcorn until beginning to brown, then remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. 2 Reduce the heat to medium-low and fry the onion for 6-8 mins until beginning to soften, then add the chicken, turn the heat up to medium, and cook for 8-10 mins until almost
£1.66 per serving
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cooked through. Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 min before stirring in the piri piri seasoning, coating everything well. 3 Pour in the stock and double cream, then tip the sweetcorn back in. Cook for around 5 mins to reduce the sauce a little, then tip in the pasta and mix to combine. Cook for 1-2 mins to reheat the pasta and serve. PER SERVING 481 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 8g • carbs 57g • sugars 5g • fibre 5g • protein 18g • salt 0.82g
One-pan mushroom stroganoff with tagliatelle SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V
600g chestnut mushrooms, sliced 1 tbsp olive oil 2 onions, finely sliced 1 tbsp smoked paprika 2 tsp Dijon mustard 350ml vegetable or mushroom stock 284ml or 300ml soured cream 400g pack fresh tagliatelle parsley, chopped, to serve (optional)
£1.15 per serving
1 Heat a large lidded frying pan over a medium heat and dry-fry the sliced mushrooms until all the moisture has released and evaporated, around 10-15 mins. Drizzle in the oil, then fry for around 6-8 mins until the mushrooms are golden. Remove from the pan using a slotted spoon and set aside. 2 Tip the onions into the pan and cook for 8-10 mins over a mediumlow heat until softened, adding a little more oil if the pan gets too dry. Scatter in the paprika and stir in the mustard to coat the onions. Add the mushrooms back in and stir well. 3 Pour the stock and soured cream into the pan and stir until combined. Tip the tagliatelle into the pan and mix to combine. Cover with a lid and cook for 3-5 mins until the tagliatelle is cooked. Scatter over the parsley and serve. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 525 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 11g • carbs 61g • sugars 9g • fibre 7g • protein 18g • salt 0.68g
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easy
Charred broccoli pilaf SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V
300g basmati rice 1 /2 tbsp vegetable or sunflower oil 1 broccoli head, broken into florets, florets halved lengthways, stalk finely chopped 50g butter 2 onions, finely sliced 1 garlic clove, crushed or finely grated 800ml vegetable stock 150g frozen peas £1 per To serve serving 1 tbsp tahini 75ml natural yogurt handful of flaked almonds handful of parsley, chopped
1 Wash the basmati rice, then put in a bowl of water and set aside to soak. Drizzle the oil into a large, lidded frying pan over a mediumlow heat and lightly char the broccoli, about 4-6 mins, turning every minute or two. Set aside. 2 Add the butter to the pan and, once melted, stir in the onion. Fry
until softened (around 6-8 mins), then stir in the garlic and cook for 1 min. 3 Drain the rice and tip into the pan, stir to coat it in the butter, then pour in the stock. Bring to a simmer, then cover with a lid and reduce the heat until it’s gently boiling. Cook for 10 mins, then remove the lid and tip in the frozen peas and the charred
broccoli. Put the lid back on and cook for 5-8 mins longer until the veg is tender and the rice is cooked. 4 Combine the tahini and yogurt in a small bowl, then drizzle over the pilaf. Scatter over the flaked almonds and parsley, then serve. GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 527 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 8g • carbs 69g • sugars 11g • fibre 11g • protein 18g • salt 0.52g
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 29
£2.48 per serving
White fish, red pepper & tomato traybake SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 50 mins EASY
500g baby or new potatoes, halved or quartered if large 3 tbsp olive oil 1 red onion, roughly chopped 1 red pepper, roughly chopped 1 yellow pepper, roughly chopped few sprigs of oregano or thyme 400g can cherry tomatoes
200g cherry tomatoes (on or off the vine) 4 fillets frozen white fish (such as cod or pollock) 1 lemon, cut into slices, plus optional extra wedges to serve
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Tip the potatoes into an ovenproof dish, then drizzle over 1 tbsp of the oil. Cook for 20 mins. 2 Add the onion and peppers, mix together and season well, then add the herbs and drizzle over another
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1 tbsp oil. Cook for 15 mins and stir in the canned tomatoes, then dot the fresh tomatoes on top (leave on the vine if using vine tomatoes). Nestle in the fish, drizzle over the remaining oil, season and place the lemon slices over the fish. Cook for 15-20 mins until the fish is cooked through. Serve with the lemon wedges for squeezing over. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • low cal • fibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 323 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 1g • carbs 30g • sugars 12g • fibre 6g • protein 26g • salt 0.24g
Shoot director RACHEL BAYLY | Food stylist ELLIE JARVIS | Stylist FAYE WEARS
easy
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SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 31
monday mash-up
curry meets soup
with a naan twist
Kickstart the week with a plant-based, dhal-inspired soup topped with crunchy croutons made using cumin-spiced naan recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph MELISSA REYNOLDS-JAMES
Curried coconut lentil soup with naan croutons If made ahead, the flavour of the soup will improve and the croutons will also keep for a few days in a lidded container. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V d
2 tbsp sunflower oil 2 onions, finely sliced 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped thumb-sized piece of ginger, finely chopped, plus a small piece, very thinly sliced, to serve 1 tbsp curry powder 2 tsp turmeric 1 tbsp tomato purée 150g red lentils 400ml can coconut milk small handful of coriander leaves 1 green chilli, thinly sliced, to serve For the croutons 1 plain naan 1 tbsp sunflower oil ¼ tsp cumin seeds
1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan and cook the onions over a low heat for 10 mins until softened and golden – don’t season with salt
32 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
at this stage. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for 30 seconds. Stir in all the spices and cook for another 2 mins until fragrant. 2 Squeeze in the tomato purée and stir for another minute before tipping in the lentils, coconut milk and 800ml water. Bring to a gentle boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 25-30 mins until the lentils are soft and the soup has thickened slightly. Season well with salt. Will keep chilled for four days or frozen for up to six months. 3 To make the naan croutons, heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Cut the naan into small cubes and toss with the oil, cumin seeds and 1 /4 tsp salt. Spread out on a baking tray and bake for 10-15 mins, turning once, until golden and crisp. Ladle the soup into bowls, scatter over the croutons and top with the coriander, ginger and chilli. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • fibre • iron • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 534 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 16g • carbs 50g • sugars 9g • fibre7g • protein 16g • salt 0.72g
Shoot director RACHEL BAYLY | Food stylist ELLIE JARVIS | Stylist FAYE WEARS
easy
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 33
batch cooking
fast prep for the freezer Try quick-to-prepare recipes from ‘the Batch Lady’ that you can freeze for hectic days. Cooking is even easier if you have an air fryer or slow cooker recipes SUZANNE MULHOLLAND photograph ANDREW HAYES-WATKINS
Lemon & parmesan breaded cod, p36
Suzanne applied her expertise as a time management trainer in the kitchen to create The Batch Lady. Her make-ahead meals are quick to prepare so dinner can be ready and waiting for another day. She is the author of three cookbooks and teaches courses on batch cooking. @thebatchlady
34 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
easy
Carrot & onion bhaji burgers, p36
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 35
Lemon & parmesan breaded cod
Carrot & onion bhaji burgers
Breaded cod is one of my family’s favourite meals. The addition of lemon zest and parmesan adds such a lovely flavour to this simple dish. It’s beautifully light and delicious served with herby new potatoes and seasonal greens.
These crispy bhaji burgers are so delicious and take no time at all to make. You can substitute plain flour for gram flour, but I love the nutty flavour gram flour gives.
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 15-20 mins EASY ❄
45g panko breadcrumbs 1 lemon, zested 40g parmesan, grated 60g plain flour 2 eggs, beaten 4 x skinless cod fillets olive oil for drizzling herby new potatoes and seasonal greens, to serve
1 Combine the breadcrumbs, lemon zest, parmesan and some salt and pepper in a wide, shallow bowl. Put the flour in another bowl and the beaten eggs in a third bowl. 2 Take one of the cod fillets and, making sure it is well coated on both sides at each stage, dip it first in the flour, then in the beaten egg and lastly in the breadcrumb mixture. Repeat with the other cod fillets. 3 To freeze, place the breaded cod fillets in a large labelled freezer bag and seal. Freeze flat. 4 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Place the frozen breaded cod fillets on a baking tray and drizzle with olive oil. Cook for 20-25 mins, or 25-30 mins if cooking from frozen, until golden and cooked through. Or to air-fry, heat the air fryer to 180C. Place the frozen breaded cod fillets in the air fryer and drizzle with olive oil. Cook for 15 mins, flipping over halfway, or 18 mins if cooking from frozen. Serve with a side of herby new potatoes and seasonal greens. PER SERVING 285 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 3g • carbs 18g • sugars 0.4g • fibre 1g • protein 34g • salt 0.67g
SERVES 4 PREP 5-10 mins COOK 15-25 mins EASY V ❄
Tomato & herby cheese gnocchi Using a garlic and herb soft cheese is a simple shortcut to add loads of flavour
SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins or up to 6 hrs in a slow cooker EASY V ❄
2 red onions, finely sliced 1 carrot, grated and as much moisture squeezed out as possible 30g fresh coriander, finely chopped 2 tsp rogan josh curry paste 1 fresh green chilli, finely diced (optional) 1 tsp ginger purée 1 tsp garlic purée 110g gram flour vegetable oil, for drizzling burger buns, salad, vegan yogurt, mango chutney and crispy onions, to serve
1 Put all the ingredients in a bowl except the vegetable oil, along with 1 tsp salt and mix well. Gradually add 80ml water, a little at a time, until you have a thick batter that holds together. 2 Divide the mix into four equal portions and form into burgers. 3 If you’re making them ahead, place the burgers in a large labelled freezer bag and seal. Freeze flat. 4 Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/ gas 5. Place the bhaji burgers on a baking tray lined with baking parchment and drizzle with a little vegetable oil. Cook for 25-30 mins, or 30-35 mins if you’re cooking from frozen, until golden and crisp. Or to air-fry, heat the air fryer to 180C. Place the bhaji burgers in the air fryer and drizzle with vegetable oil. Cook for 15 mins until golden and crisp, flipping over the burgers halfway through, or 16-17 mins if you’re cooking from frozen. Serve in a bun with salad, vegan yogurt, mango chutney and a sprinkling of crispy onions. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • folate • fibre • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 177 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 0.4g • carbs 23g • sugars 7g • fibre 6g • protein 7g • salt 1.41g
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This one-pot gnocchi dish is so easy to make and a great one for the kids. Using a garlic and herb soft cheese is a simple shortcut to add loads of flavour. To make it vegan, use a plantbased soft cheese.
500g fresh gnocchi 500g passata 400g can chopped tomatoes handful of fresh basil 115g frozen diced onions 2 tsp frozen chopped garlic 75g garlic and herb soft cheese (I used Boursin) 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 Put all the ingredients in a saucepan, mix well and place over a medium heat. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 15 mins, stirring regularly, until the gnocchi are just tender. Or to slow cook, put all the ingredients into the slow cooker, mix well and pop on the lid. Cook for 2-3 hrs on high, or 5-6 hrs on low, until the gnocchi are just tender. Finish with a crack of black pepper and serve. 2 To freeze, place all the ingredients in a large labelled freezer bag and seal. Freeze flat. To cook, remove from the freezer and leave to fully defrost, then cook on the hob or in a slow cooker as per step 1. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • low cal • fibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 301 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 5g • carbs 46g • sugars 12g • fibre 6g • protein 7g • salt 0.84g
Recipes are extracted from The Batch Lady: Rapid Dinners by Suzanne Mulholland (£22, Ebury Press) and not retested by us. Photographs © Andrew Hayes-Watkins.
easy
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 37
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Fig, honey & hazelnut friands These sticky bakes are a great way to celebrate seasonal ingredients – a treat to share with friends over a cup of tea. Samuel Goldsmith MAKES 12 PREP 40 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V
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4 ripe figs, roughly chopped, plus a few extra slices to serve (optional) 25g hazelnuts, chopped, plus extra to serve 2 tbsp honey
200g unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus extra for the tins 225g icing sugar 75g plain flour 170g ground almonds 6 egg whites
1 Put the chopped figs in a small pan with the hazelnuts and honey, and cook over a medium-low heat for 5-6 mins until the figs have broken down slightly. 2 Heat the oven to 200C/ 180C fan/gas 6. Butter a 12-hole non-stick friand or muffin tin and set aside. 3 Sift the sugar and flour into a large bowl, then stir in the ground almonds. Whisk the egg whites in a separate clean bowl until stiff peaks form. Fold into the dry mix along with the butter until it forms a soft batter – a few specks of egg white remaining is fine.
4 Divide the mixture between the buttered moulds of the tin, so it comes about threequarters of the way up. 5 Bake for 15-20 mins until lightly golden and firm to touch. Leave to cool in the tin for a few minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completey. Serve topped with the fig and honey mixture, with a scattering of extra chopped hazelnuts and a few extra slices of fig, if you like. PER SERVING 386 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 9g • carbs 36g • sugars 31g • fibre 2g • protein 7g • salt 0.1g
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 39
fresh start
First-class
student meals Forget beans on toast – these globally inspired recipes from Beck Johnson will impress new friends at university photographs MYLES NEW
Atis-style Azteca salad Here’s a simple veggie salad inspired by the plant-focused London restaurant, Atis. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V
396g block firm tofu, pressed and cut into bite-sized pieces 2 oranges, juiced 4 tbsp maple syrup 4 tbsp soy sauce 1 tsp ginger, grated For the dressing 15g fresh coriander 15g fresh parsley 3 tbsp olive oil ½ lemon, juiced 1 tsp honey 1 tsp red wine vinegar For the salad 200g spinach 400g can black beans, drained and rinsed
340g can sweetcorn, drained 120g feta (vegetarian if needed), crumbled 2 avocados, sliced 4 tbsp pickled red onions
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Put the tofu in a bowl along with the orange juice, maple syrup, soy sauce and ginger. Stir well, then tip out onto a baking tray with the dressing. Bake for 25 mins. 2 Tip all the dressing ingredients into a blender and blitz until smooth. Season to taste. To build the salad, put the spinach in a bowl and toss well with some of the dressing. Add the black beans, sweetcorn, feta, avocado and red onions. Scatter over the cooked tofu and drizzle over any of the remaining dressing. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • fibre • folate • calcium • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 636 kcals • fat 37g • saturates 10g • carbs 41g • sugars 25g • fibre 13g • protein 27g • salt 3.08g
Beck Johnson is the creator behind Beck Bites Back, a food blog launched in 2020. Her love of cooking started at uni where she became known for her cheesy pasta bakes, slow-cooked stews and Sunday roasts. Beck shares nostalgic, feel-good recipes for everyday life. @BeckBitesBack
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easy
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Gochujang tuna melt The addition of gochujang adds some spice to this classic lunch. Make it ahead of time and toast when you’re ready to eat. SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 6 mins EASY
2 x 150g cans tuna, drained 50g mayonnaise 1 tsp gochujang 1 spring onion, finely sliced 4 sourdough slices 60g cheddar, grated 1 tbsp butter
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1 Tip the tuna into a bowl and mix in the mayonnaise, gochujang and spring onion. Season to taste. Either chill for later, or if ready to serve, continue with the recipe. 2 Divide the tuna between 2 pieces of bread, top with the grated cheese, then close the sandwiches with the other 2 pieces of bread. 3 Melt the butter in a frying pan over a medium-low heat. Fry the sandwich for 2-3 mins until golden, then flip and cook for another 2-3 mins until crisp and the cheese has melted. Cut in half to serve. GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING 711 kcals • fat 43g • saturates 13g • carbs 38g • sugars 2g • fibre 3g • protein 40g • salt 2.46g
easy
Trout caesar salad Replace the chicken in the popular salad with trout, and add rye croutons and an easy homemade dressing. SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 20 mins EASY
2 tbsp butter, melted 125g rye bread, cut into 1.5cm pieces 2 x 110g fillets of trout or salmon 1 tbsp olive oil 2 romaine lettuce heads, cut into 2cm-thick slices 30g parmesan, cut into shards For the dressing 4 tbsp mayonnaise 2 anchovies in oil, drained 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 small garlic clove 30g parmesan, finely grated
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. To make the croutons, briefly melt the butter in the microwave, then tip the bread onto a baking tray. Pour over the butter, sprinkle over a pinch of salt, then toss well and bake for 15-20 mins until the bread has started to crisp up. 2 Arrange the fish on a baking tray lined with foil, drizzle with the olive oil and lightly season. Put in the oven for 8-10 mins until tender and cooked through. 3 Put all the dressing ingredients in a blender, blend until smooth, then season to taste. Put the lettuce in a large mixing bowl and pour over the dressing. Mix in the croutons, tossing through to coat in the dressing, then divide the salad between two plates, flaking the fish over the top. Top with extra parmesan flakes, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • iron • vit c • folate • fibre • omega 3 • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 812 kcals • fat 56g • saturates 18g • carbs 31g • sugars 5g • fibre 8g • protein 41g • salt 2.46g
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SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V d
200g block tempeh, cut into bite-sized pieces 4 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp sesame oil 1 tsp honey or maple syrup For the dhal 400g can chickpeas, drained ½ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp madras curry powder For the wraps 150g spinach 1 /4 lemon 4 tbsp sweet chilli jam 4 wraps
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of lemon juice, microwaving for about 1-2 mins until wilted. 5 Once the tempeh is cooked, you can form the wraps. Spread some sweet chilli jam three-quarters of the way along the middle of the wrap. Top each wrap with the with the dhal, a handful of wilted spinach and a handful of the tempeh, then roll the wrap up tightly, repeating with the remaining three. 6 Toast the wraps in a dry frying pan for 3-4 mins on each side, then wrap in foil and store in the fridge or freezer, reheating when ready to serve. Will keep frozen for up to three months. Reheat in a low oven or in the microwave in short blasts. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • folate • vit c • fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 434 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 2g • carbs 57g • sugars 15g • fibre 10g • protein 22g • salt 2.88g
Shoot director LAURIE NEWMAN | Food Stylist AMY KINNEAR
An easy vegan breakfast or lunch wrap that comes together in just over 30 minutes.
1 Bring a large pan of slightly salted water to a boil, then add the tempeh. Boil for 15-20 mins until softened. Drain and set aside to cool slightly. 2 Meanwhile, mix together the soy sauce, sesame oil and honey or maple syrup in a large bowl. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Coat the tempeh in the marinade and tip out onto a baking tray. Cook for 15-20 mins until the marinade starts to caramelise. 3 Meanwhile, set a medium saucepan over a medium heat. Put the chickpeas, turmeric, cumin and curry powder in the pan, along with a generous splash of water. Mash the chickpeas slightly using a fork or potato masher to create a thick dhal consistency, adding more water if needed. Season to taste, then remove from the heat and set aside. 4 Put the spinach in a large, microwave-safe bowl with a squeeze
Shoot director XXXXXXXXXX | Food stylist XXXXXXXXXX | Stylist XXXXXXXXXX
Tempeh & chickpea dhal wrap
easy
Banana bread baked oats Filled with fibre and protein, you could serve this on its own as a snack, or with yogurt and fruit for breakfast. SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V
240g oat flour 60g vanilla whey protein 1 tsp baking powder ½ tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp mixed spice 2 bananas, mashed 250ml milk 1 egg, beaten flavourless oil, for the dish 2 tbsp smooth peanut butter To serve yogurt, berries and peanut butter
1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Mix all the dry ingredients together in a bowl, then add the mashed banana, milk and egg, stirring until you have a cake batter consistency. 2 Oil a small baking dish or 4 individual ramekins, then spoon in. Swirl through the peanut butter, then bake for 20-25 mins until risen and golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool slightly. Serve with yogurt, berries and more peanut butter. GOOD TO KNOW fibre PER SERVING 443 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 4g • carbs 54g • sugars 12g • fibre 7g • protein 26g • salt 0.56g
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Air fryer soda bread lunchbox rolls, p48
Air fryer
back-to-school ack-to o-sc bakes You can prep these recipes ahead for the new term and the kids can do the cooking when hunger strikes recipes CASSIE BEST photographs HANNAH TAYLOR-EDDINGTON
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cook smart
Air fryer jam & custard pastry pockets, p48
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Air fryer soda bread lunchbox rolls
Air fryer jam & custard pastry pockets
Air fryer peanut butter & choc chip cookies
Mini soda breads are ideal for packed lunches or dunking into soup. No yeast, no proving, just mix, shape and cook.
Crisp, golden and oozing with sweet fruit filling, these little pockets are a nostalgic nod to toaster pastries. Ideal for brunch, dessert or an indulgent treat.
Crisp at the edges, soft and chewy in the middle – these cookies won’t stay in the biscuit tin too long. You could freeze them raw then cook from frozen whenever you fancy.
MAKES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 10-15 mins EASY V ❄
MAKES 12 PREP 10 mins plus chilling COOK 8-10 mins EASY V ❄ raw dough only
250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 50g wholemeal flour 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 225ml buttermilk or natural yogurt 1 tsp honey 1 tbsp milk 2 tbsp porridge oats
1 Mix the flours, bicarb and 1/4 tsp salt in a bowl with a fork. 2 Pour in the buttermilk or yogurt and honey, then mix with a butter knife until it comes together as a soft dough. It should be slightly sticky but not wet – add a little more flour if needed. 3 Lightly flour your hands and divide the dough into 6 even pieces (weighing around 80g each). Shape into rough rounds and flatten slightly, then cut a deep cross into the top of each. Brush with a little milk and sprinkle with oats. 4 Heat the air fryer to 180C. Line the basket with baking paper and air fry the rolls in batches for 12-15 mins, until golden and firm to the touch. 5 Leave to cool on a wire rack. Best eaten on the day. Will keep in an airtight container for two days. Warm in the air fryer for 2-3 mins before serving. PER SERVING 225 kcals • fat 2g • saturates 0.5g • carbs 44g • sugars 3g • fibre 3g • protein 7g • salt 0.8g
1 x 320g sheet ready-rolled puff pastry 6 tbsp of your favourite jam (strawberry, raspberry or apricot work well) 6 tbsp custard 1 egg, beaten 3 tbsp icing sugar drop of vanilla extract 1-2 tsp milk sprinkles or crushed freeze-dried berries (optional)
1 Unroll the puff pastry and cut into 12 equal rectangles (this is easiest if you cut the pastry 3 by 4). Spoon 1 tbsp of jam and 1 tbsp custard into the centre of 6 rectangles, leaving a 1cm border. Don’t overfill or they may leak during cooking. 2 Brush the borders with a little beaten egg, then put the remaining pastry rectangles on top. Press the edges together firmly with your fingers, then crimp with a fork to seal. Cut a small cross in the top of each pastry. Chill for at least 20 mins to firm up. Will keep frozen for up to three months. To cook from frozen, add an extra three minutes to the cooking time. 3 Heat the air fryer to 180C. Lightly brush the tops of the pockets with more beaten egg. Cook in batches for 10 mins, until puffed and deep golden brown. If the pastry is still soft underneath you can carefully turn the pastries over and cook for another 5 mins. Cool for 10 mins on a wire rack. 4 Mix the icing sugar, vanilla and milk in a small bowl to make a thick glaze. Drizzle this over the cooled pockets and scatter with sprinkles or freeze-dried berries, if using. Best eaten the same day. Will keep in an airtight container for up to two days. PER SERVING 305 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 7g • carbs 37g • sugars 20g • fibre 1g • protein 5g • salt 0.6g
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125g peanut butter 100g light brown soft sugar 1 egg ½ tsp vanilla extract 50g plain flour ½ tsp baking powder 100g dark or milk chocolate chips
1 Beat the peanut butter, sugar, egg and vanilla in a medium bowl until smooth. Stir in the flour and baking powder to make a soft dough, then fold in the chocolate chips. 2 Scoop out 12 even spoonfuls of the dough (weighing roughly 35g each) and roll into balls. Flatten each ball into a puck shape, then chill on a lined plate for 30 mins to firm up. You can freeze the dough at this point. To cook from frozen, add an extra three minutes to the cook time. 3 Heat the air fryer to 180C. Line the basket with baking parchment trimmed to fit. Put the cookies on the parchment, leaving a little space between them to expand as they cook. Sprinkle each cookie with a little flaky sea salt, if you like. Cook in batches for 7-8 mins, until golden at the edges but still soft in the middle – they’ll firm up as they cool. Leave in the air fryer for 2 mins, then transfer to a wire rack. Best eaten the same day. Will keep in an airtight container for up to three days. PER SERVING 163 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 3g • carbs 17g • sugars 13g • fibre 1g • protein 4g • salt 0.2g
tip Nuts are not allowed in most schools, so save these cookies for home time or swap the peanut butter for sunflower seed butter to make them allergy-friendly for lunchboxes.
Shoot director FREDDIE STEWART | Food stylist ROSIE REYNOLDS | Stylist LUIS PERAL
MAKES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 12–15 mins EASY V
cook smart
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storecupboard heroes
Make more of...
anchovies
In this new series, we’re utilising affordable storecupboard ingredients, ideal for their long shelf life. Here, we’ve turned a few anchovy fillets into a hearty meal for four recipes AILSA BUR T photographs MYLES NEW
All about anchovies Choose anchovies packed in olive oil for the best flavour
Keep leftovers in an airtight container with a bit more oil
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Store the cans in a cool, dry, dark cupboard or pantry
Anchovies are high in omega-3 and vitamins B12, A and E
cook smart
Anchovy red pesto pasta with crispy garlic pangrattato SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 25 mins EASY
Shoot director LAURIE NEWMAN | Food and prop stylist AMY KINNEAR
300g short pasta, like casarecce or fusilli 60ml olive oil 2 roasted red peppers, drained and roughly chopped 4 anchovy fillets in oil, drained 50g walnuts, roughly chopped 2 tbsp tomato purée ½-1 tsp chilli flakes, depending on how spicy you like it 50g parmesan, finely grated 1 tbsp red wine vinegar For the pangrattato 2 tbsp olive oil 3 garlic cloves, skin on and lightly bashed 50g panko or dried breadcrumbs small handful of parsley, chopped
1 Start by making the pangrattato. Heat the oil in a large pan over a medium heat. Tip in the garlic and cook, basting the garlic in the oil using a spoon, for 4-5 mins until golden. Remove the garlic and set aside to cool. Stir the breadcrumbs into the oil and toast over a medium heat for 4-5 mins until golden. Transfer to a bowl, then stir in some seasoning and the parsley. 2 Cook the pasta following pack instructions. Reserve a mugful of the cooking water, then drain well. Peel and discard the skins of the cooled garlic and finely chop. Heat the oil in a large pan over a medium heat and add the peppers, anchovies and walnuts. Cook for 3-5 mins until the anchovies have dissolved, then stir in the garlic, tomato purée and chilli flakes. Cook for a further 3-5 mins until the mixture has turned dark red. Remove from the heat and leave to cool for 5 mins. 3 Scrape the contents into a food processor, add the parmesan and vinegar, then blitz until finely chopped. Season to taste. Stir the pesto through the cooked pasta with a splash of the reserved cooking water, then scatter over the pangrattato to serve. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 661 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 6g • carbs 67g • sugars 5g • fibre 6g • protein 19g • salt 1.57g
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Sunday prep =
weeknight wins Prepare a few simple base recipes to make your weeknight cooking stress-free – just put aside an hour on Sunday and thank yourself later recipes AILSA BURT photographs HANNAH TAYLOR-EDDINGTON
How it works STEP 1 Prep Set aside an hour at the weekend to prepare the short recipes below and opposite. STEP 2 Create With a few simple additions, what you’ve prepared in advance will stretch into three different, time-saving dinners packed with maximum flavour (turn the page for the recipes).
Spiced meatballs In a large bowl, mix together 800g turkey thigh mince, 2 crushed garlic cloves, the zest of 2 lemons, 2 tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp sumac, 1/2 tsp ground allspice, a small handful of finely chopped parsley, 1 tsp fine sea salt and a good few cracks of black pepper. Using your hands to combine everything well. Set aside half the mixture in an airtight container in the fridge. Roll the remaining half into 20 meatballs around 20g each. Transfer to an airtight container lined with baking parchment. Will keep chilled for up to four days.
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cook smart
Yellow coconut curry sauce In a food processor, blitz together 1 deseeded and finely chopped red chilli, 5 roughly chopped garlic cloves, 1 bashed, peeled and roughly chopped lemongrass stalk, 4 roughly chopped shallots, 50g roughly chopped ginger, a small handful of finely chopped coriander, 1 tbsp light brown soft sugar and 1 tsp salt. The mixture should be very finely chopped. Heat 2 tbsp coconut oil (or sunflower oil) in a frying pan over a medium heat. Stir in 1 finely chopped onion, 1 tsp ground turmeric, 1/2 tbsp mild curry powder, 1/2 tsp ground coriander, 1/2 tsp ground cumin and a pinch of salt. Cook for 8-10 mins until beginning to soften. Mix in the paste and fry for 5-7 mins, until very fragrant. Pour in a 400ml can coconut milk and 500ml chicken stock. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 20-25 mins until reduced slightly and thickened. Season with up to 1 tsp fish sauce. Will keep chilled for up to four days.
Pickled red cabbage salad In a large bowl, combine the juice of 1 lemon, 3 tbsp olive oil, 1 tsp caster sugar and 2 tsp salt until the sugar has dissolved. Season well with black pepper. Add 1 /2 thinly sliced red cabbage, a small bunch of finely chopped mint leaves, a small handful of finely chopped parsley and 1 /2 finely sliced red onion. Stir to combine then transfer to an airtight container. Will keep chilled for up to four days.
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Meal one
Speedy turkey wraps with pickled red cabbage SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY
4 large flatbreads, we used Greek ones 420g unformed spiced meatball mixture (see p52) 1 tbsp olive oil small handful of parsley, finely chopped 200g pickled red cabbage (p53)
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Lay the flatbreads out on a large baking tray after sprinkling the underside with a little water, then flip. Divide the meatball mixture between them evenly. Spread out to the edges then drizzle with the oil. Bake for 10-12 mins until brown and cooked through. 2 Sprinkle the parsley over the flatbreads, then roll up and cut in half. Serve with the pickled cabbage on the side to fill the wraps. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 489 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 4g • carbs 47g • sugars 5g • fibre 4g • protein 28g • salt 2.43g
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Meal two Meatball & chickpea yellow coconut curry with rice & pickled red cabbage SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 45 mins EASY
2 tbsp vegetable oil 420g spiced meatballs (see p52) 800ml yellow coconut curry sauce (p53) 400g can chickpeas, drained and rinsed 1 large green pepper, sliced 200g mangetout To serve jasmine rice 50g pickled red cabbage (p53) small handful of coriander leaves, picked
1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium-high heat. Add the meatballs and fry for 6-8 mins until browned all over (they don’t need to be cooked through at this point). 2 Pour in the curry sauce, chickpeas and green pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 15-20 mins until reduced and thickened. 3 Add the mangetout and simmer for a further 5 mins until the veg is tender. Serve over jasmine rice with a handful of pickled red cabbage on top and a sprinkling of coriander leaves. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 528 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 17g • carbs 25g • sugars 11g • fibre 9g • protein 31g • salt 2.69g
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Meal three
Coconut rice with prawn stir-fry SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
200g jasmine rice 200ml yellow coconut curry sauce (p53) 1 lime, juiced 1 tbsp light brown soft sugar 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp oyster sauce 1 tbsp sunflower oil 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 20g ginger, finely chopped 200g long-stem broccoli, cut into bite-sized pieces 1 red pepper, finely sliced 200g raw king prawns (if frozen, defrosted) small handful of coriander, finely chopped
1 Tip the rice into a saucepan and add cold water. Swish around with your hands and drain off the water carefully. Repeat until the water runs clear. Pour in the coconut curry sauce, then cover with enough water to cover by about 1cm. Bring to a boil over a high heat. Once boiling, cover with a tight-fitting lid and reduce to a low temperature. Cook for 12-15 mins, then remove from the heat and leave covered for another 20 mins. 2 Meanwhile, combine the lime juice, sugar, soy sauce and oyster sauce together in a small bowl. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Stir in the garlic and ginger and cook for 2-3 mins until fragrant. Tip in the broccoli, pepper and prawns. Cook for 4-5 mins until the prawns are cooked through and the veg is tender. Drizzle in the sauce and stir well to combine. Serve with the coconut curry rice and the coriander scattered over the top. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • low cal • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 364 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 4g • carbs 57g • sugars 10g • fibre 4g • protein 13g • salt 1.89g
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Shoot director FREDDIE STEWART | Food stylist ROSIE REYNOLDS | Stylist LUIS PERAL
cook smart
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 57
Home-time treats Use fresh seasonal produce from Morrisons Market Street to whip up after-school meals the kids will love
seasonal calendar
seasonal calendar
Jacket potato board Trending on social media, these jacket potatoes are smaller than traditional jackets and served with a variety of fillings. SERVES 2 PREP 30 mins COOK 1 hr EASY
8 Morrisons Market Street British Maris Piper Potatoes 2 tsp olive oil For the tuna crunch 50g canned tuna 1 /4 celery stick 1 tbsp mayonnaise ¼ red onion, finely chopped pinch of smoked paprika For the beans & cheese 50-100g baked beans dash each of Tabasco and Worcestershire sauce (optional)
30g grated mature cheddar For the coronation chicken 1 small cooked chicken breast 2 tsp medium curry powder 1 tsp mango chutney, plus a little extra to serve 2 tbsp mayonnaise 1 tbsp yogurt 1 /2 tsp turmeric For the cheese & onion ½ red onion, finely chopped 50g mature grated cheddar 1 ½ tbsp mayonnaise 1 spring onion, finely chopped
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 4. Choose the smaller potatoes
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from the pack and tip onto a baking tray, rub with the oil and season to coat. Bake for 50 mins-1 hr until tender and the skin is crisp. 2 Mix all the ingredients for each filling in separate bowls and season. 3 Cut crosses into the jackets and put on a serving board. Use each of the fillings to fill two potatoes each and arrange side by side. Add a little more mango chutney to the coronation chicken. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day • calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • iron PER SERVING 934 kcals • fat 56g • saturates 13g • carbs 62g • sugars 10g • fibre 10g • protein 40g • salt 1.46g
FRESH FROM MARKET STREET
Whole cauliflower tikka masala with cheesy naans You could easily make this curry with cauliflower florets – just reduce the cooking time and bake until golden and tender. SERVES 4-6 PREP 10 mins COOK 45 mins EASY V
We’ve partnered with Morrisons, who sources fresh food direct from British farmers, to bring you new recipes that make the most of what’s in season. In each ingredients list, we’ve highlighted the hero ingredient in season to look out for in store. Find more inspiration at goodfood.com/ morrisons-market-street
1 Morrisons Market Street British Large Cauliflower ½ 180g jar Morrisons Tikka Masala Curry Paste 200g Morrisons Mature Cheddar, grated 3 tbsp semi-skimmed milk 4 tbsp fresh coriander, roughly chopped 2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 Morrisons Plain Naans 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 1 lime, cut into wedges, to serve
1 Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Remove any tough outer leaves from the cauliflower and carefully lower into the water. Season and boil for 15 mins, then drain and allow to cool slightly. 2 Meanwhile, heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Mix the curry paste with half of the cheese, the milk and half of the coriander. Once cooled, use clean hands to cover the cauliflower in the mixture. Place in a roasting tin and put in the oven for 20-25 mins until golden. 3 Combine the butter with the garlic and half the remaining coriander. Brush over the top of the naans, then scatter with the chilli and remaining cheese. Put in a lined baking tray and bake along with the cauliflower for the last 6-8 mins so the cheese is golden and bubbling. 4 Slice the naans to serve alongside the cauliflower. Serve with the lime wedges for squeezing over and some coriander sprinkled over.
FIND OUT MORE
GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day • calcium • vit c PER SERVING (6) 358 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 11g • carbs 26g • sugars 5g • fibre 4g • protein 15g • salt 1.19g
tip Don’t bin the cauliflower leaves – roast with oil and spices to toss into your favourite grain (we like to use bulgur wheat or rice).
Did you know? Scan the QR code to discover all Good Food recipes using Morrisons Market Street produce.
Cornwall’s unique microclimate means Morrisons Market Street cauliflower can be grown there all 12 months of the year, so they’re always sweet and fresh.
What to eat during menopause Dr Chintal Patel explores the diet that may ease symptoms and relieve some discomfort
Chintal is a long-serving GP for the NHS as well as a food content creator, cookbook author and our regular contributor. She has a passion for nutrition and lifestyle medicine, and aims to help people approach cooking and eating in a way that supports overall wellbeing. @drchintalskitchen
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health
M
enopause usually occurs in women between the ages of 45 and 55, although it can occur earlier naturally or following surgery to remove the ovaries or womb. It is marked by a drop in oestrogen levels, and this hormonal shift can bring a range of symptoms including hot flushes, mood changes, brain fog, sleep problems, weight gain and an increased risk of osteoporosis and heart disease. While every woman’s experience is unique, research shows that diet can play a powerful role in easing symptoms and supporting long-term health. Eating a variety of whole, plant-based foods rich in calcium, fibre, healthy fats and natural phytoestrogens can help balance hormones, support bone and heart health and reduce inflammation. The Mediterranean diet has been associated with fewer menopausal symptoms and a reduced risk of chronic disease. Small, consistent changes to your plate can make a big difference in how you feel and thrive during this transition – here’s some advice to that end.
Foods to include in your diet
Foods to limit
• Phytoestrogens in foods like tofu, tempeh and edamame are plant compounds that can mimic oestrogen in the body. Further research is needed but these may help to reduce symptoms of menopause in some women.
Ultra-processed foods like pastries, packaged snacks and ready meals are often high in added sugar, salt and unhealthy fats. Regular consumption has been linked to worse menopause symptoms and an increased risk of chronic health issues. Try to cook from scratch as often as possible.
• Calcium-rich foods including dairy and leafy greens such as kale, spinach, broccoli and pak choi are excellent sources of calcium and vitamin K, essential for bone health. Adequate intake of these nutrients, along with vitamin D, can help reduce the risk of osteoporosis post-menopause.
Caffeine can trigger hot flushes and worsen sleep. Try decaffeinated drinks or mint tea which can be helpful for bloating and digestion, too.
• Oily fish such as salmon, mackerel and sardines are rich in omega-3 fatty acids, which have been shown to support mood, cognitive function and cardiovascular health during menopause. • Wholegrains such as oats, brown rice, barley and quinoa provide dietary fibre and B vitamins. They can help with weight management and reduced risk of cardiovascular disease in postmenopausal women. The fibre found in wholegrains supports our gut microbes which play a role in how well your body can use phytoestrogens, and they also influence your oestrogen levels. • Nuts and seeds including flax, chia and sesame seeds are high in lignans, which your body changes into phytoestrogens. They may help with symptoms, and are high in omega-3 fatty acids.
What else can I do? • Exercise In particular, weight-bearing, strength training and aerobic exercise are important for protecting bone health, supporting cardiovascular function, improving mood and reducing hot flashes. Aim for at least 150 minutes (moderate intensity) or 75 minutes (high intensity) exercise per week. Incorporate at least two strength-training exercises such as weight training, pilates or using resistance bands.
Photographs ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS
• Prioritise sleep Hormonal changes can disrupt sleep. Aim for seven-nine hours of sleep per night. Create a calm evening routine and reduce caffeine after midday. • Stress management High levels of stress hormones can worsen menopause symptoms like irritability and brain fog. Mindfulness and relaxation techniques like yoga or meditation have been shown to help in reducing menopausal symptoms and improving emotional wellbeing. Try to incorporate small pockets of mindfulness or gratitude into your day.
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Tomatoes
Rapeseed oil
are rich in vitamin C to aid iron absorption and lycopene for heart and bone health
is high in heart-healthy monounsaturated fats and omega-3s, which support cardiovascular health and help manage cholesterol levels during menopause
Tempeh is high in phytoestrogens that can help relieve menopause symptoms
Walnuts are rich in omega-3 for brain and heart health, and fibre for plant-based protein
Sesame seeds contain lignans which the body converts to phytoestrogens
10+ plant points for variety
Wholemeal rolls are a source of dietary fibre, needed to regulate levels of cholesterol and blood sugar
High in
Tempeh
protein, fibre, omega-3, phytoestrogens
vegan protein, high in fibre
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health
This fermented soybean product is packed with protein, boasting similar amounts to chicken or fish, and it’s rich in phytoestrogens, which help support hormonal balance during menopause.
Food stylist ELLIE JARVIS | Stylist FAYE WEARS
Photograph MELISSA REYNOLDS-JAMES | Shoot director RACHEL BAYLY
Tempeh burgers with caramelised onions
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V
2 tbsp rapeseed oil 2 medium red onions, thinly sliced 45g black and white sesame seeds 220g smoked tempeh, roughly chopped 3 garlic cloves 30g coriander, roughly chopped 25g walnuts
DO YOU KNOW HOW TO KEEP YOUR BRAIN HEALTHY?
Suzi Perry, Alzheimer’s Research UK Brain Health Ambassador
1 tbsp tomato purée 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp ground cumin To serve 4 wholemeal burger buns 50g baby spinach 1 large tomato, sliced 1 large gherkin, sliced
1 First caramelise the onions. Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a large pan over a low heat, add the onions and a pinch of salt and cook for about 40 mins, stirring every 10 mins to prevent sticking. Add a splash of water near the end if you need to. 2 Meanwhile, to make the tempeh burgers, put half the sesame seeds and all remaining ingredients in a food processor and pulse until finely chopped.
3 Spread the remaining sesame seeds on a flat plate. Divide the burger mix into four equal portions, shape into patties and press each one into the sesame seeds to coat. 4 Heat the remaining 1 tbsp oil in a frying pan over a mediumhigh heat. Cook the patties for 4-5 mins on each side, until golden and crisp. 5 Fill the buns with spinach, sliced tomato, gherkins, a tempeh burger and a spoonful of caramelised onions. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • folate • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 467 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 5g • carbs 35g • sugars 11g • fibre 9g • protein 21g • salt 0.9g
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health benefits
How spices can support your health Deputy health editor Isabella Keeling explains how spices can have a powerful influence on your overall wellbeing
M
WHAT ARE SPICES?
ade from dried seeds, fruits, roots, barks, herbs and other plant substances, spices are used to flavour and enhance our food. They’ve been used for centuries, not just for imparting flavour, but also for their medicinal properties. There are plenty of easy ways to benefit in your diet, from
simply adding a pinch of cinnamon to a smoothie, stirring in some turmeric or ginger into a curry, or chilli into a stew. Incorporating spices into your meals also ups your intake of plant foods, which is good for the biodiversity of your gut. As part of your recommended 30 plant points per week, spices count as half a point.
5 REASONS TO EAT SPICES Rich in antioxidants Both cinnamon and turmeric contain protective plant compounds called polyphenols, which are protective antioxidants. These help reduce the risk of chronic diseases. Regulate blood sugar Cinnamon may help lower blood sugar levels. This makes it particularly beneficial for individuals managing type-2 diabetes, or those looking to maintain stable energy levels throughout the day. Anti-inflammatory properties Chronic inflammation is linked to numerous health conditions, including heart disease. Turmeric contains curcumin,
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a powerful anti-inflammatory compound that can help reduce inflammation in the body. Regular consumption may support joint health and overall immunity. Good for your heart Studies suggest that both cinnamon and turmeric may help lower cholesterol levels, which helps to support a healthy heart. Capsaicin, found in chilli, also reduces the risk of heart disease. Ease digestive issues Some spices, including cinnamon, have prebiotic properties – consuming them regularly may help restore balance in your gut, while ginger can help soothe digestive issues, including nausea.
health
Simple spiced recipes
Cinnamon porridge with baked bananas Put 80g porridge oats, 150ml semi-skimmed milk, 450ml water and 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon in a pan. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring often, for 5 mins until thickened. Meanwhile, put 1 large ripe banana, halved lengthways and cut in half again, in a heatproof dish with the
juice and zest of 1/2 orange. Cover and microwave on high for 11/2-2 mins until soft. Serve the porridge in bowls topped with 200g plain bio yogurt and 2 tsp toasted seed mix. Serves 2 GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • calcium • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 360 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 3g • carbs 52g • sugars 23g • fibre 5g • protein 14g • salt 0.29g
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health
Turmeric, ginger & coconut fish curry Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat and fry 2 finely sliced onions for 8 mins until translucent. Stir in a thumb-sized piece of grated ginger, 1/2 tbsp ground turmeric, 1 tbsp garam masala and 1/2 tsp cayenne, and cook for another minute. Pour in 325ml light coconut milk and 100ml water, stir, then simmer for 10 mins. Add 400g boneless and skinless cod loin, cut into chunks, 300g frozen peas and 300g sugar snap peas, and simmer for 5 mins until the fish is flaky. Serve with 400g cooked brown basmati rice, topped with chilli flakes, black pepper and some lime wedges on the side for squeezing over. Serves 4 GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • vit c • low cal • protein • fibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 409 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 6g • carbs 44g • sugars 11g • fibre 7g • protein 28g • salt 0.25g
Moroccan harira Heat 1-2 tbsp rapeseed oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and fry 2 finely chopped large onions and 4 chopped garlic cloves until starting to soften. Tip in 2 tsp each of ground turmeric and cumin, 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon and 2 red chillies, deseeded and sliced. Stir briefly, then pour in 500g passata and 1.7 litres reduced-salt vegetable bouillon. Add 175 dried green lentils, 2 carrots, finely chopped, 1 sweet potato, peeled and diced, and 5 chopped celery sticks, and bring to the boil. Cover and simmer for 30 mins, then cook uncovered for a further 5-10 mins until the vegetables and lentils are tender. Stir in a small bunch of chopped coriander and serve in bowls with lemon wedges for squeezing over. Serves 4 GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • low fat • fibre • iron • vit c • 4 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 335 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 48g • sugars 21g • fibre 13g • protein 16g • salt 1.26g
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seasonal
At its best Ease into autumn with recipes featuring in-season aubergines, apples and plums from our food content producer Helena Busiakiewicz photographs LIAM DESBOIS
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Aubergines
Roasted aubergine with crispy lamb & curried turmeric yogurt Serve this sharing centrepiece with flatbreads for scooping. SERVES 4-6 PREP 15 mins COOK 45 mins EASY
2 large aubergines, sliced into 2cm-thick rounds 3 tbsp olive oil 1 red onion, finely chopped 500g 20% fat lamb mince 1 large garlic clove, grated 2 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp Aleppo chilli flakes ¼ tsp ground cardamom 15g mint leaves, picked lemon wedges and flatbreads or cooked rice, to serve For the pickled chillies 1 red chilli, finely sliced 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 tsp sugar For the curried turmeric yogurt 300g thick Greek-style yogurt 1 ½ tsp ground turmeric 1 small garlic clove, finely grated 1 lemon, zested and juiced
1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7. Put the aubergines in a large bowl, drizzle over 2 tbsp oil and season well. Arrange in a single layer on a large baking tray, and bake for 25-30 mins, or until golden.
2 Meanwhile, make the pickled chillies. Put the chillies in a small, non-metallic bowl along with a pinch of salt. Pour over the vinegar, add the sugar and stir to dissolve. Set aside in the fridge to pickle while you make the rest. 3 For the turmeric yogurt, put all the ingredients in a small bowl, season with salt and pepper and mix well. Chill until ready to serve. 4 Heat the remaining oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat and, once shimmering, cook the onion with a pinch of salt for 5 mins until starting to soften. Add the mince, breaking it up using a wooden spoon so it’s in a single layer. Turn the heat up to medium-high and cook for 7-8 mins, stirring often until dark brown and starting to crisp. 5 Just before the mince is fully crisp, add the garlic and spices, stirring well to coat. Cook for 2-3 mins more, then season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a bowl. 6 To serve, spoon the yogurt onto a large platter. Top with the roasted aubergines, then the crispy lamb. Scatter over the pickled chillies and mint leaves, then spoon over a few splashes of the pickling liquid. Serve with flatbreads or rice and lemon wedges for squeezing over. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING (6) 396 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 13g • carbs 9g • sugars 7g • fibre 5g • protein 20g • salt 0.23g
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Shoot director JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE | Food stylis LOU KENNEY | Stylist HANNAH WILKINSON
The aubergines we grow in the UK are usually bred from the wild solanum melongena variety, so we’re used to seeing purple, egg-shaped fruits. But there are many varieties available that vary in size, shape and colour — if you come across any of those, try them in this recipe.
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Plums At this time of the year plums are a welcome addition to jams, pies and savoury dishes, especially alongside duck or pork. We’ve gone with the latter for these spicy tacos. The fruits appear in late summer or early autumn, and can range in colour from golden or greenish-yellow, to dark blue, purple, red or black. Air fryer sticky pork tacos with plum & chilli salsa Pork and plums make a lovely combination, as the slightly tart fruit cuts through the fatty meat. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins plus an optional 1 hr marinating COOK 20 mins EASY
480g pork belly strips, cut into 2-3cm chunks 1 tbsp dark brown soft sugar 2 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp Tajín, or use chilli powder 1 tsp ground coriander 2 garlic cloves, grated 1 lime, juiced 12 soft corn tacos, warmed, to serve soured cream and lime wedges, to serve For the salsa 2 plums, stoned and finely chopped into small chunks 10g chives, finely sliced 10g coriander, roughly chopped, plus extra leaves to serve 1 red chilli, finely sliced 1 lime, zested and juiced 1-2 tsp caster sugar, or to taste
1 Put the pork belly in a large bowl, season well, then add the sugar, cumin, Tajín or chilli powder, ground coriander, garlic and lime juice. Mix well to coat. If you have the time, leave to marinate in the fridge for 1 hr. 2 Heat the air fryer to 190C and cook the pork belly for 15-18 mins, turning halfway, until dark brown and crisp. 3 Meanwhile, make the salsa by combining the plums, chives, coriander, chilli, lime zest and juice and the sugar (depending on the ripeness of the plums, you may need more or less sugar; start with 1 tsp, then taste). Season with salt, mix well and set aside. 4 When the pork is cooked through, fill the warm tacos with soured cream, then the pork, plum salsa and a sprinkling of coriander leaves. Serve with lime wedges on the side to squeeze over. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • fibre PER SERVING 668 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 9g • carbs 79g • sugars 15g • fibre 6g • protein 30g • salt 1.31g
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Apples They’re one of the most popular British fruits, but apart from being a lunchbox snack, apples are also a versatile cooking ingredient. Eating apples can work better than Bramleys in some recipes, as with this dessert. Miso apple & pecan tarte tatin The miso provides a touch of umami salt that complements the caramel and keeps this dessert from being too sweet. SERVES 4-6 PREP 15 mins COOK 45 mins EASY V
320g sheet of ready-rolled puff pastry 100g golden caster sugar 75g salted butter 2 tsp white miso 75g pecans 5 Royal Gala apples, peeled, cored and quartered cream or vanilla ice cream, to serve
1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Roll the pastry out until it’s large enough to fit a roughly 20cm ovenproof frying pan, and cut out a disc from the pastry that’s the same size as the pan. Put the pastry disc in the fridge to chill and heat the pan over a medium heat. 2 Scatter the sugar into the pan, gently swirling the pan to melt.
Don’t be tempted to stir it, as the caramel will crystallise. When the sugar becomes a deep, amber caramel, stir in the butter and miso to combine. (If the mixture splits, stir in 1 tbsp hot water over a low heat to bring it back together.) 3 Once golden and bubbling, stir in the pecans. Arrange the apples in a single layer in the pan, cut-side up. Turn the heat down to medium-low, cover with a lid and cook for 15 mins, shaking the pan every few minutes to prevent burning. 4 After 15 mins, remove the lid and lay the chilled pastry disc on top of the apples. Prick the pastry all over using a fork, then transfer the pan to the oven and bake for 25-30 mins until the pastry is golden. 5 Run a knife around the edge of the tarte tatin to loosen the pastry, then put a wide plate or serving tray on top. Carefully invert the tart in one fluid motion and lift away the pan. Slice into wedges and serve with cream or ice cream, if you like. PER SERVING (6) 506 kcals • fat 34g • saturates 5g • carbs 44g • sugars 27g • fibre 3g • protein 5g • salt 0.89g
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seasonal
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Hom Homegrown meg Discover what to make with fresh produce. Plus, expert advice on growing your own from BBC Gardeners’ World
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seasonal
PR E SERV E t he SE A SON
Apples Apple butter
Put 5-6 chopped dessert apples in a large pan with 150ml water, 150ml apple juice, 100g light brown soft sugar and the juice of 1 lemon. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer, cooking for 20 mins until the apples are soft. Leave to cool slightly, then blend until smooth. Strain through a sieve into a clean pan, then cook until darkened and caramelised. Will keep chilled in a sterilised jar for up to three months. Spread on toast or swirl through porridge.
Plums
Plum & earl grey compote
Put 500g halved and stoned plums in a large pan. Scatter over 200g light brown soft sugar and pour in 150ml water. Cook on a medium heat for 10-15 mins until the plums have broken down, then add 1 earl grey teabag and the juice of 1/2 lemon. Simmer for another 10 mins, then remove the teabag. Will keep for two weeks in a sterilised jar. Swirl through yogurt, use as a filling for a Victoria sponge, or spread on toast.
Are you a green-fingered cook? Emma Crawforth of BBC Gardeners’ World offers advice on what to plant in August. Senshyu onion Bulb onions
need a long season of growth, so Japanese onions like these, which can be sown now, are great because they are ready for harvesting earlier than spring-sown ones. Sow seeds 2cm deep – around 5cm apart in rows – in fertile soil with good drainage, to which nitrogenous fertiliser has been added. Add more of the same fertiliser in midwinter and thin to the final spacing (up to 10cm apart) in spring. Winter lettuce Winter lettuces,
Aubergines Confit aubergines
Photographs ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS
W H AT TO GR OW NOW
Heat the oven to 150C/130C fan/gas 2. Slice 2 aubergines into 3-4 chunky round pieces. Tip into a deep roasting tray with 5-6 whole garlic cloves and 3-4 thyme sprigs. Season with salt and pepper, then cover with a good glug of olive oil. Cover with a sheet of baking parchment. Bake in the oven for 1 hr, then leave to cool before removing from the oil. Tip the mixture into a sterilised jar, then add the cooking oil. Add more olive oil to cover the aubergine, if needed. Will keep chilled for up to two weeks.
such as Winter Density and Navara can be sown outside now for autumn and winter salads. A homemade fleece tent will keep the leaves protected. Sow successionally for regular pickings, made easier with loose leaf types, like Navara, which can be harvested leaf by leaf. Prepare a cane structure to peg fleece over in cold weather, then sow into that area 0.5cm deep and around 2cm apart, thinning the seedlings later. Forced mint You can start
growing mint on your kitchen windowsill, ready for easy harvests over winter. Lay the root in a pot of compost and cover with another 1cm compost. Water, and keep warm and light. Look out for tasty new shoots within a fortnight.
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Discover Di iscoverr it it now:
Damsons ons
Barney Desmazery celebrates the short but glori glorious ious season of this small ffruit
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seasonal
A
Photographs ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS
little fruit with a big personality, damsons are the wild, punchy cousins of plums. Small, oval and dark purple, they’ve been growing in Britain since Roman times, and were brought over for eating and to make deep blue dyes. They’re in season from late August to the end of September. Choose fruits that are plump and firm, then store in the fridge and use within a couple of days. Generally, they’re too tart to eat raw, but that acidity becomes a huge asset when cooked, especially in jam, which is ideal for that sharp-sweet balance, or in in tarts and crumbles simply stewed with sugar until they collapse, or paired with other seasonal fruits like apples or pears (see recipe, right). That astringency also works in savoury dishes especially when paired with rich flavoured game like venison or fatty meats like pork belly or duck. Wild damsons tend to be smaller and more astringent than cultivated ones, but all types benefit from a bit of heat and sweetness and, like sloes (another wild plum in season slightly later in the year), damsons also make a great flavoured gin or vodka which you can mature and give as a homemade gift. Use plums if you can’t find damsons and tweak the amount of sugar to taste.
Quick idea Stewed damsons Halve and stone your damsons and for every 500g fruit, add 75g sugar (any fine sugar but golden caster or light brown would be our preference). Simmer in a pan with a splash of water for 15-20 mins until you’ve got a soft but chunky compote. Leave to cool, then serve with some yogurt, or on pancakes for breakfast, or use as the base for a pie or strudel.
Damson & apple crumble
800g-900g damsons 50g light brown soft sugar knob of butter 1-2 tbsp sloe gin (optional) 2 apples peeled, cored and sliced custard or cream, to serve For the crumble 250g plain flour 150g unsalted cold butter 80g light brown soft sugar 80g demerara sugar 50g ground almonds
the sugar, butter and sloe gin if using (or a splash of water if not) and heat gently until the damsons start to give off their juices. Tip into the base of a large shallow gratin dish (about 25cm long) and stir through the apple slices. 2 Put all the crumble ingredients in a food processor with a pinch of salt and, using the pulse button, whizz until the mixture just starts to clump together. Don’t whizz for too long or the mixture will stick together too much. Alternatively, rub the butter into the flour using your fingers and then stir in the other ingredients. 3 Scatter the crumble over the damsons and bake in the oven for 30-40 mins until golden brown. Leave for about 15 mins before serving with custard or cream.
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Put the damsons in a pan with
PER SERVING 605 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 14g • carbs 82g • sugars 49g • fibre 5g • protein 7g • salt 0.1g
Our seasonal crumble will go down a treat with the family to round off Sunday lunch. The damsons will contain stones, so do warn people to remove them as they eat. SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 50 mins EASY V ❄
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We’ve got the festive season covered with more than 110 recipes, including edible gifts, starters, mains, desserts and more
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Make time for yourself Enjoy one last al fresco feast with menus inspired by the Med, Mexico and the sea, recreate Filipino flavours at home with Melissa Hemsley and get ahead for the charity bake sale. Plus, usher in the new season with an apple fizz cocktail
Calamari with crispy sage, p95
Be inspired and discover more at goodfood.com/ feature/weekend
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The last of the summer dining Make the most of any sultry September days with menus designed for just one more al fresco feast
13-page special
A taste of the Med with Ailsa Burt Roast souvlaki spiced chicken Confit chilli tomatoes on tzatziki Camomile poached peaches & Greek yogurt
Ailsa Burt is Good Food’s food editor and test kitchen manager. She’s a graduate of Leiths School of Food and Wine and previously worked in restaurants before moving into food writing and recipe development. @ailsaburtfood
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Roast souvlaki spiced chicken , p86
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SERVES 4-6 PREP 20 mins plus at least 3 hrs marinating and resting COOK 2 1/2 hrs EASY
2 lemons, 1 zested and juiced, 1 cut in half 4 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tsp dried oregano 1 ½ tsp sweet smoked paprika pinch of ground cinnamon 50ml olive oil 1 whole chicken, around 1.8kg
Confit chilli tomatoes on tzatziki September is when British tomatoes start to peter out until next summer, so celebrate these little jewels in this gorgeous dish. Serve alongside the roast souvlaki spiced chicken with plenty of flatbreads for scooping. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins plus cooling COOK 1 hr EASY V
500g cherry tomatoes, halved 2 garlic cloves, sliced small bunch of thyme 1 red chilli, finely sliced 1 tsp golden caster sugar 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar 100ml olive oil flatbreads to serve For the tzatziki ½ cucumber, halved, deseeded and grated
1 In a bowl, combine the lemon zest and juice, garlic, oregano, paprika, cinnamon and olive oil with 2 tsp flaky sea salt and lots of black pepper. Set the chicken in a large roasting tin and remove any string. Add the remaining cut lemon inside the cavity and slather over the oil mixture. Leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 3 hrs, uncovered. Will keep chilled for up to 24 hrs. 2 Remove the chicken from the fridge an hour before you want to start cooking so that it comes to room temperature. Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Remove the chicken from the tin and scatter in the onions, rosemary and potatoes.
200g Greek yogurt 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 tsp red wine vinegar small handful of mint leaves, finely chopped
1 Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/ gas 3. Put all the tomatoes, garlic, thyme, chilli, sugar, vinegar and olive oil in a baking dish just big enough to neatly fit it all. It doesn’t matter if the tops of the tomatoes are poking out. Season generously, then roast in the oven for 45 mins or up to 1 hr until the tomatoes are softened but are still holding their shape and the tops are a little browned. Set aside to cool. Will keep chilled for up to four days. Bring to room temperature before serving. 2 To make the tzatziki, tip the cucumber into a clean tea towel and squeeze out as much water as possible. Transfer to a bowl and add
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Pour in 100ml water and add the chicken back on top. Roast for 2-2 1/2 hrs until the chicken is cooked through, browned and fall-apart tender. Remove and set aside to rest for 30 mins. Pour any excess roasting juices carefully out of the corner of the pan into a jug and keep the potatoes warm in a low oven. Skim any fat from the top of the juices and warm it through in a saucepan before serving. 3 Serve the roast chicken carved on a platter with the potatoes, red onions and the roasting tin juices drizzled over the top. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (6) 560 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 7g • carbs 21g • sugars 4g • fibre 4g • protein 49g • salt 2.01g
the yogurt, garlic, vinegar, mint and some seasoning to taste. Will keep chilled for up to two days. 3 Serve the tzatziki spread out on a platter and spoon over the confit tomatoes and a drizzle of their oil with flatbreads on the side. GOOD TO KNOW 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING (6) 288 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 6g • carbs 7g • sugars 6g • fibre 2g • protein 4g • salt 0.07g
tip Any remaining tomato confit oil works brilliantly in a salad dressing.
Food stylis LOU KENNEY | Stylist HANNAH WILKINSON
This is chicken and chips with a Greek-style makeover using a gorgeous spice rub then cooking the chicken until meltingly tender. Carve onto a platter and serve with the confit tomatoes (below) and a big, crunchy, green salad.
2 red onions, thickly sliced 2 thick sprigs rosemary 750g baby potatoes, halved if large
Photographs for The Med menu LIAM DESBOIS | Shoot director JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE |
Roast souvlaki-spiced chicken
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Camomile poached peaches & Greek yogurt You can often find the final peaches of the summer in September, and a great peach is a thing of beauty. So treat them simply and pair with delicate camomile tea. Drizzle any leftover peach syrup over your morning yogurt as well, for an indulgent last hit of summer. SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins plus cooling COOK 30 mins EASY V
3 camomile teabags 100g golden caster sugar 50g wildflower honey ½ tsp vanilla paste 4 peaches, cut in half and stoned To serve 250g thick Greek yogurt, at least 5% fat
1 Add the teabags, sugar, honey and 500ml water to a large saucepan. Set over a medium low heat and heat gently until the sugar and honey have dissolved, around 5 mins. Stir in the vanilla paste. Using a slotted spoon, lower the peaches into the water, cut side up. Increase the heat to medium and simmer gently for 4-6 mins then flip and cook for a further 4-6 mins until tender but not overly soft. If your peaches are very ripe, they will need less time, and if they’re harder, they may need a little more. Remove the cooked peaches from the pan and set aside in a large bowl. 2 Remove the teabags, then boil the syrup until it has reduced by half (this will take about 10 mins). Spoon over the peaches, then set aside to cool. Will keep covered and chilled for up to two days. Serve the peaches and syrup at room temperature, warm or chilled with spoonfuls of Greek yogurt. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • vit c • gluten free • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 263 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 4g • carbs 45g • sugars 45g • fibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 0.11g
tip Any leftover poaching liquid can be used like cordial in sparkling water or mixed into cocktails.
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Thomasina Miers OBE is a cook, writer and restaurateur. After winning the 2005 series of MasterChef, Miers co-founded popular restaurant chain Wahaca and has since released six cookbooks, including Home Cook and her latest, Mexican Table. @thomasinamiers
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Sticky onion, blue cheese & bitter leaf salad with chipotle honey, p92
weekend
A taste of Mexico with Thomasina Miers Sticky onion, blue cheese & bitter leaf salad with chipotle honey Short-rib tacos with anise, ancho & chocolate No-churn café de olla semifreddo
Short-rib tacos with anise, ancho & chocolate Here’s a wonderfully rich braise that’s perfect alongside soft polenta or a bowl of buttery mash. I find the flavour notes in dark chocolate are particularly good with beef and venison, softening their gamier elements while the anise really draws out the meatiness. If you can, take the ribs out of the fridge two hours before you want to cook. Season them generously with salt and pepper and allow to come to room temperature before cooking. SERVES 6-8 PREP 10 mins COOK 5-6 hrs EASY
2 tbsp olive oil 2kg beef short ribs 2 onions, sliced 2 celery sticks, chopped 2 carrots, chopped 3 ancho chillies, deseeded and torn into a few pieces 3-4 chipotle chillies, or 3 tbsp chipotle en adobo 5-6 large garlic cloves, smashed a few times and peeled 3 star anise 2 tbsp rosemary leaves, chopped 4 tbsp tomato ketchup 300ml Guinness or other stout 500ml chicken stock 60g dark chocolate with at least 70% cocoa solids warm tortillas, soft polenta or mash, pickled jalapeños, soured cream, chopped coriander, slaw and hot sauce, to serve
1 Put a large casserole dish over a high heat. Once smoking hot, pour in 1 tbsp of the oil. Sear the short
ribs all over until caramelised; you may need to do this in two batches. 2 Remove to a plate with tongs and set aside. Reduce the heat to medium and wait a few minutes for the temperature to subside, then pour in the remaining 1 tbsp oil. Add the onions, celery and carrots, and cook for 10-12 mins until lightly coloured. Now stir in the chillies and toast for 1 min before adding the rest of the ingredients except the chocolate. Bring the mixture to the boil, scraping the bottom of the pan. Simmer gently for 10 mins. 3 Heat the oven to 150C/130C fan/ gas 2. Now return the ribs to the casserole dish and cover with the lid. Transfer it to the oven and cook for 4-5 hrs or overnight until the meat is falling off the bones.
4 Remove the ribs from the braising liquid and keep warm. Skim off the fat, then place the casserole pan over a medium–high heat. Grate in the chocolate, stir and taste, adjusting the seasoning. Simmer the liquid briskly for 10-15 mins until it has a rich, syrupy consistency. While the sauce is thickening, pull apart the ribs, discarding the bones and, if you like, crisp under a hot grill. 5 Serve the short ribs with plenty of warmed tortillas, soft polenta or mash, along with the jalapeños, soured cream, coriander, slaw and hot sauce. GOOD TO KNOW iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (8) 518 kcals • fat 34g • saturates 14g • carbs 12g • sugars 9g • fibre 3g • protein 38g • salt 0.89g
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Sticky onion, blue cheese & bitter leaf salad with chipotle honey Indecently sticky balsamic-roasted red onions, spiked with smoky chipotle honey and folded through warm lentils, along with salty, soft blue cheese to cut through the honey, and crisp, electric pink or buttercup yellow bitter leaves, with fresh mint leaves for freshness and more flavour. This lovely little salad makes a wonderful starter. SERVES 4-6 (as a starter or a side) PREP 10 mins COOK 50 mins-1 hr EASY V
150g green lentils 1 tsp Dijon mustard 1 tbs balsamic vinegar (I love apple balsamic vinegar) 3-4 tbsp olive oil 150g bitter leaves, such as radicchio, chicory and watercress handful of mint leaves, roughly chopped 150g blue cheese (I love Cashel, Oxford, Stichelton or St Agur – make sure it’s vegetarian if needed)
No-churn café de olla semifreddo This is my boozy mash-up of a tiramisu pudding, with the delightful crackle of chocolate in a Viennetta dessert and the rousing effect of café de olla, the cauldron of cinnamon- and sugar-laced black coffee found in cantinas across Mexico. It is a shameless, delicious cheat of a pudding; instead of whisking egg yolks over heat as with a semifreddo, you can whisk a few ingredients in a bowl and layer over soaked sponge fingers. SERVES 8-10 PREP 10 mins plus at least 4 hrs freezing COOK 5 mins EASY
397g can condensed milk 2 tbsp Kahlúa or coffee-flavoured mezcal 1 tsp vanilla extract
For the chipotle honey 1 garlic clove 1 tsp sea salt 140g chipotle en adobo 75g honey For the onions 4-5 red onions, each cut into 6 wedges 2 tbsp olive oil 3 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7 and line a baking tray with foil or a silicone baking mat. Start by making the chipotle honey. Using a pestle and mortar or small food processor, bash or blitz the garlic and salt to form a paste. Add the chipotle and honey then bash or blitz to a purée. Set aside. Will keep in a sterilised jam jar stored in a cool, dark place for several months. 2 To prepare the onions, arrange the onion wedges in lines in the prepared tray. Drizzle over the olive oil, balsamic vinegar and 5 tbsp water. Season generously with salt and pepper, cover with foil and roast in the oven for 30 mins. 3 Remove the foil and drizzle over 3 tbsp of the chipotle honey.
2 tbsp ground cinnamon 500ml double cream For the biscuit layer 80g savoiardi biscuits (sponge fingers) 4 tbsp espresso coffee 3 tbsp Kahlúa To serve 60g dark chocolate with at least 70% cocoa solids silver balls (optional)
1 Line a 450g loaf tin with cling film (look for a compostable type), leaving enough overhanging the edges to cover the top once filled. Briefly whisk together the condensed milk, Kahlúa, vanilla, 1 /4 tsp fine sea salt and 11/2 tsp of the cinnamon. In a separate bowl, beat the cream until stiff peaks form, then beat in the condensed milk mixture until thoroughly combined. Pour into the prepared loaf tin.
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Toss to coat and continue to roast, uncovered, for another 10-20 mins until the onions are beautifully sticky and caramelised. 4 Meanwhile, put the lentils into a saucepan and cover with plenty of cold, salted water. Simmer following pack instructions until just tender. 5 In a large bowl, whisk the mustard with 1 tbsp of the chipotle honey, along with the vinegar and olive oil. Season and taste, adding more honey, vinegar or salt as needed. 6 Arrange the bitter leaves on a large platter and scatter over all but a few tablespoons of the mint. When the lentils are cooked, drain, then, while they are still warm, add them to the bowl of dressing and toss. Add the sticky onions and toss again. Check the seasoning. Arrange the lentils and onions over the leaves, dot with kernels of the blue cheese and finish with the last of the mint and plenty of freshly ground black pepper. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING (6) 361 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 7g • carbs 30g • sugars 18g • fibre 7g • protein 13g • salt 1.85g
2 Now move on to the biscuit layer. Arrange the biscuits over the cream, packing them in, sardine-style, without letting them sink into the cream. Whisk the coffee and Kahlúa together in a small bowl and drizzle over the biscuits. Wrap the whole thing in the cling film and freeze for at least 4 hrs, or overnight. 3 About 5 mins before serving, melt the chocolate in the microwave or in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water. Take the semifreddo out of the freezer and turn it out onto a serving dish – you might need to dip the tin in hot water to loosen the semifreddo first. Drizzle with rivulets of the melted chocolate, decorate with silver balls if you like, and serve at once. PER SERVING (10) 418 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 19g • carbs 28g • sugars 25g • fibre 1g • protein 4g • salt 0.31g
Recipes are extracted from Mexican Table by Thomasina Miers (£28, Quadrille) and not retested by us. Photographs © Matt Russell.
weekend
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 93
A taste of the sea with Emily Scott Calamari with crispy sage Fisherman’s shakshuka Lemony orzo with tuna, avocado, spring onions & mint
Emily Scott is a chef, restaurateur and cookbook author. Emily trained as a chef in London and France, then moved to Cornwall where she successfully ran the Harbour Restaurant in Port Isaac. Emily is now executive consultant chef and creative director to a restaurant in the Cayman Islands, and writes her substack Shore to Shore each week. @emilyscottfood
94 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
weekend Calamari with crispy sage
Fisherman’s shakshuka
There is something quite beautiful about this sea creature. Squid has always been something I have enjoyed cooking and eating – preparing, not so much! Braised, barbecued, cut into rings for calamari or pan-fried, it is always super-quick and versatile. I often buy frozen squid with the tubes and tentacles ready and prepared, so all I have to do is defrost it for a quick seafood supper.
I love shakshuka and this tiger prawn version is a quick and easy dish for brunch, lunch or supper. I have added some aniseedy notes to the base with fennel and Pernod. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 20-25 mins EASY
2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, thinly sliced 1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced 2 celery stalks, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 tsp red chilli paste 1 tsp paprika 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 bay leaf 1 tbsp rose harissa 1 tbsp light brown soft sugar 1 tbsp Pernod 2 x 400g cans cherry tomatoes 250g raw tiger prawns, peeled 4 eggs handful of fresh coriander leaves, roughly chopped
SERVES 2 (as a main) PREP 10 mins COOK 8 mins EASY
100g plain flour 2 tbsp cornflour 1 tsp paprika 500g frozen squid, tubes and tentacles, defrosted and cut into 1cm pieces sunflower oil, for deep-frying handful of sage leaves aioli, to serve
1 Heat the oven to 180C fan/200C/ gas 6. Pour the olive oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan and put over a gentle heat. Add the onion, fennel, celery and garlic and cook for 2-3 mins until translucent. 2 Stir in the chilli, paprika, cumin, bay leaf, rose harissa, sugar, Pernod and tomatoes. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 10-15 mins. This is the base, which can be made ahead and even frozen. 3 Tip the tomato base into a roasting tin and add the prawns. Make four wells in the surface of the sauce and crack an egg into each one. Season with salt and pepper. Bake in the oven for 6-8 mins until the prawns have turned pink and the eggs are just cooked. Garnish with coriander and serve straightaway. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 285 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 3g • carbs 17g • sugars 15g • fibre 5g • protein 18g • salt 1.2g
1 Place the flour, cornflour and paprika in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. 2 Drain off any water from the squid and pat dry with kitchen paper. Add the squid to the seasoned flour and toss to coat, then shake off any excess. Set aside. 3 Heat a 3 cm depth of oil in a heavy-based pan to 190C. To test, drop a pinch of flour in the oil – if it sizzles, you are ready to go. Deep-fry half of the squid for 2-3 mins until golden brown, adding half of the sage leaves for the final minute. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt. Repeat the process with the remaining squid and sage. 4 Serve piles of the crispy calamari and sage with the aioli to dip into. GOOD TO KNOW healthy PER SERVING 629 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 4g • carbs 52g • sugars 0.4g • fibre 2g • protein 44g • salt 0.7g
Recipes are extracted from Home Shores by Emily Scott (£30, Quadrille) and not retested by us. Photographs © Matt Russell. SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 95
weekend Lemony orzo with tuna, avocado, spring onions & mint Orzo literally translates as ‘tiny barley.’ I immediately think of The Hobbit and am transported to Bilbo Baggins’ house, Bag End. I’m sure Bilbo would have whipped up this orzo salad from his larder store – a treasure trove of pastas, pulses and jars of ingredients. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY
180g orzo 1 lemon 4 tbsp olive oil 30g mint leaves, thinly sliced, plus extra to serve 220g jar of Albacore tuna in olive oil, drained 1 ripe avocado, sliced 4 spring onions, thinly sliced
1 Bring a pan of water to the boil and cook the orzo for 10 mins (or following pack instructions). Once cooked, drain and run under cold water to cool. Leave to drain in a colander over the pan. 2 Zest and juice the lemon into a bowl, then add the orzo and 2 tbsp of the olive oil. Add a good pinch of salt and stir together, then stir through the mint and taste. Adjust the seasoning, if needed. 3 Spoon the orzo onto a platter and break up the tuna over the top. Spoon over the avocado flesh and drizzle over the remaining olive oil. Garnish with the spring onions and extra mint leaves, and serve. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • vit c PER SERVING 383 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 3g • carbs 35g • sugars 1g • fibre 4g • protein 16g • salt 0.39g
96 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
18 o Se n s pt a em le be r
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Traybakes that’ll
sell like hotcakes
Autumn is always a busy time for charity bake sales and these recipes are ideal for making, taking and portioning out recipes GOOD FOOD TEAM photographs CHRIS TERRY
Spiced squash, maple & pecan traybake, p100
98 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
weekend
Coconut & cardamom traybake, p100 SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 99
Spiced squash, maple & pecan traybake Just like a good carrot cake, this spiced veg traybake gets better after a day or two in the cake tin, in terms of both taste and texture. Only top it with the cream cheese icing on the day you want to serve it, though. Cassie Best SERVES 12 PREP 20 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V ❄ (without frosting)
50g raisins 200ml sunflower oil, plus extra for the tin 150g light brown soft sugar 50ml maple syrup 3 eggs 300g butternut squash or pumpkin, coarsely grated 225g self-raising flour 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 2 tsp ground cinnamon grating of fresh nutmeg ½ tsp mixed spice 100g pecans, roughly chopped, plus a few whole to serve For the cream cheese icing 150g salted butter, softened 125g icing sugar, sifted 100g full-fat soft cheese 1 tbsp maple syrup, plus a drizzle to serve (optional) 1 tsp vanilla extract
1 Put the raisins in a bowl and pour over 100ml hot water. Leave to soak for at least 1 hr to plump up. 2 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Oil and line a 20 x 30cm traybake tin or roasting tin with baking parchment. In a large bowl or jug, whisk the sugar with the maple syrup, eggs, sunflower oil and 1/2 tsp salt, until smooth. Stir in the grated squash.
3 In a separate bowl, mix together the flour, bicarb and spices, then pour the wet ingredients into the dry. Add 75g of the chopped pecans and drained raisins, and stir until you have a smooth batter with no pockets of flour. 4 Scrape the mixture into the prepared tin and level the surface with a spatula. Bake for 35 mins until golden and a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. If any wet cake crumbs cling to the skewer, return the cake to the oven for another 5 mins, then check again. Leave to cool completely in the tin. Will keep frozen, well wrapped, for up to three months. 5 For the cream cheese icing, beat the butter and icing sugar with an electric whisk until soft. Add the soft cheese, maple syrup and vanilla extract, then beat again until the mixture is smooth and spreadable. Be careful not to overbeat, however, as the icing could turn loose. If this happens, chill the icing for 30 mins, then beat again briefly to a spreadable consistency. 6 Once cool, remove the cake from the tin and spread the icing on top. Scatter with extra chopped and whole pecans and drizzle with a little maple syrup, if you like. Cut into 12 squares to serve. Will keep chilled for up to four days.
Coconut & cardamom traybake I call this a ‘pudding cake’ as it has a comforting, squidgy texture. Helena Busiakiewicz SERVES 6-8 PREP 30 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V
200g salted butter, softened 200g golden caster sugar 10 cardamom pods, husks discarded, seeds crushed, plus seeds from 6 pods for the topping 1 tbsp vanilla bean paste 3 eggs 100ml coconut milk 100g coconut yogurt 250g self-raising flour ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda 75g desiccated coconut 2 tbsp honey For the icing 200ml double cream 100ml coconut milk 1 tbsp honey ½ tsp vanilla bean paste
PER SERVING 430 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 9g • carbs 37g • sugars 25g • fibre 2g • protein 4g • salt 0.76g
tip Best eaten the day it’s made, but will keep in the fridge for up to two days. 100 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Line a 22 x 30cm traybake tin with baking parchment. Put the butter, sugar, cardamom and vanilla bean paste in the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat on medium speed for 5-6 mins until fluffy and light. 2 Scrape down the sides of the bowl, then turn the mixer back to medium speed. Add the eggs, one at a time, making sure each egg is completely mixed in before adding the next. 3 Stir in the coconut milk and yogurt, then sift over the self-raising flour, bicarb and a pinch of salt. Fold to combine – it should be a smooth batter. Pour into the prepared tin and smooth the top. 4 Bake for 25-30 mins until a skewer comes out clean. Leave to cool for 10 mins in the tin before transferring to a wire rack. 5 Meanwhile, mix the desiccated coconut with the crushed seeds from 6 cardamom pods and honey on a lined baking tray. Bake for 5-8 mins, stirring halfway, until golden. Leave to cool completely on the tray. For the icing, whisk together the ingredients until soft peaks form. Spread over the cooled cake, then sprinkle over the honey-baked coconut. PER SERVING (8) 710 kcals • fat 49g • saturates 33g • carbs 58g • sugars 34g • fibre 3g • protein 7g • salt 1g
weekend
Banana & chocolate chip traybake Whenever I clear out my baking shelf, I make a cake with the odds and ends. I’ve added chocolate chips here, but the same weight of nuts or dried fruit works too. Barney Desmazery SERVES 16-20 PREP 20 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V
250g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for the tin 250g light brown soft sugar 4 eggs 2 tsp vanilla extract 250g self-raising flour 1 tsp baking powder 4-5 very ripe bananas, peeled and mashed
150g chocolate chips 200g icing sugar 1 lemon, juiced 2 handfuls of banana chips, roughly crushed
1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Butter a 20 x 30cm rectangular baking tin and line it with baking parchment. Beat the butter and sugar together with an electric whisk for a few minutes until pale and creamy. 2 Crack in the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition — don’t worry if it looks curdled. 3 Add the vanilla, flour, baking powder and a pinch of salt. Fold together gently with a spatula until just combined, then stir
in the mashed banana and chocolate chips. Scrape into the tin and smooth the top. Bake for 35-40 until golden and a skewer inserted comes out clean. Leave to cool completely in the tin. 4 To make the icing, sift the icing sugar into a bowl and stir in just enough lemon juice to make a thick, pourable icing (add the juice gradually — you might not need it all). Drizzle it over the cooled cake, then scatter with the banana chips. Leave to set before slicing into squares. Will keep in an airtight container for up to five days. PER SERVING (20) 301 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 8g • carbs 40g • sugars 30g • fibre 1g • protein 3g • salt 0.23g
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 101
weekend
Richly dense and fudgy, you won’t taste the beetroot in this bake, it just helps amp up the texture. Ailsa Burt MAKES 24 squares PREP 15 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V
150ml sunflower oil, plus extra for the tin 300g cooked plain beetroot 200ml Guinness or other stout 300g golden caster sugar 2 eggs 1 tsp vanilla extract 125g cocoa powder 200g plain flour 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda For the icing 100g salted butter, softened 175g soft cheese 275g icing sugar, sifted 225g white chocolate, melted
PER SERVING 312 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 7g • carbs 38g • sugars 31g • fibre 1g • protein 4g • salt 0.53g
Shoot director FREDDIE STEWART & LAURIE NEWMAN |
1 Oil and line a 20 x 30cm baking tin with baking parchment. Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Tip
the beetroot into a food processor with the oil and blend to purée. Transfer to a large jug and mix in the Guinness and sugar, then crack in the eggs. Whisk in along with the vanilla, then set aside. 2 In a large bowl, sift together the cocoa powder, flour and bicarb with a pinch of salt. Slowly whisk the beetroot mixture into the dry until no lumps remain and the mixture is well combined. Tip into the prepared cake tin, smooth the top and bake for 35-40 mins until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Remove to a wire rack to cool completely. 3 For the icing beat together the butter and soft cheese until smooth and well combined. Gradually add the icing sugar, stirring after each addition, then add a pinch of salt and pour in the melted white chocolate. Beat well, then spread over the top of the cooled cake.
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Food stylist JESSICA MCINTOSH | Stylist JO HARRIS
Guinness, beetroot & chocolate cake
10% off
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Your deal at a glance • Extra 10% off our bestselling Black Reds subscription • Plus free delivery • Use code GF10 at checkout
To explore the full range, go to goodfoodwineclub.com/septemberwine Or call 03300 242 855 *Good Food Wine Club wines are supplied and delivered by Laithwaites. 10% discount code valid until 12 September 2025 when you buy Bestselling Black Reds subscription. Free standard delivery, usually £7.99. Delivery to UK only (excluding CI and BFPO). All goods are subject to availability and all orders are subject to acceptance by us. Order acceptance and the contract between us is formed on despatch of products. See goodfoodwineclub.com/terms for full terms and conditions, and our privacy policy. Registered in England and Wales. Registered Number 1095091. One Waterside Drive, Arlington Business Park, Theale, Berkshire, RG7 4SW. Unless otherwise stated, all wines contain sulphites.
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 103
My favourite dish
Melissa Hemsley’s
chicken adobo The cookery writer and sustainability champion shares her views on ultra-processed foods and a recipe for a Filipino classic
O
ne of my favourite dishes is chicken adobo. I’m half Filipino, and there are lots of Spanish and Chinese influences in our food – you see that in adobo, where the chicken is braised in vinegar and soy. Have it with white rice, quinoa or noodles. If you’re vegetarian, make it with potatoes or shiitake mushrooms instead. My latest book, Real Healthy, is all about reducing processed foods in your diet. I wanted to write a book because I was deeply concerned about the dominance of ultraprocessed foods. In the UK, we eat more ultra-processed foods than any other European country; it’s around 70% of our diet. I think a lot of us are food lovers, but at the same 104 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
time, we are busy and time-poor. Ultra-processed foods are everywhere – it’s impossible to miss them. They’re so convenient and delicious – they’re made to be hyper-palatable; some scientists say they’re addictive. But, I don’t want to be anti-anything. It’s annoying when people say, ‘it’s really easy to eat healthily and avoid processed foods and it’s easy to grow your own veg’ because it isn’t. We don’t want to stress anyone out when it’s already expensive to eat well. Try to eat real food with greater variety. When you’re doing your weekly shop, agree with your family to each take an ultra-processed food out of the basket and swap it for something else. Frozen fruit or veg is great, as then you don’t have to worry about using it all up before it goes off. I try to add extra veg where I can – if I’m making scrambled egg, I’ll add grated courgette. If I’m having frozen pizza, I’ll put veg on it. During the week, when I’m often working from home, I’ll make a comforting soup with lots of veg, blend beans in there to make it creamy, add coconut milk, ginger and turmeric, and top it with crunchy chickpeas or fried beans. I make a big batch and that’s lunch for the week. It’s costeffective, and I don’t have to go out and get a meal deal. I think soup is one of my best dishes. If I’ve got someone round for lunch they’ll say, ‘What are you making, are you testing any good recipes?’ I say, ‘I’m making soup’ and I can tell from the slow WhatsApp response that they’re not that interested. Then they eat it and say, ‘oh my God, that soup is delicious!’
Growing up, I spent a lot of time in Germany – that’s where I got my love of sauerkraut. I love cruciferous veg. I feel lucky that my mum brought me up eating that food from early on. One of the concerns now, especially as a mum, is that kids will be unable to tolerate the taste of even things like peas, which have always been considered a ‘safe’, sweet veg, because they’re so used to sweet, soft foods that dissolve in your mouth and hit all those bliss points. They’re not going to be able to deal with al dente broccoli, which has that slightly bitter flavour. I’ve got a two-year-old daughter, and one day she’ll eat everything, the next, she won’t. She’s also started saying ‘yuck!’ a lot. My top tip is to try to get kids to help with prep – they’ll be more invested in the meal and more likely to have a bite of it. Even simple things, like grating some cheese or letting them have a go at stirring. There’s this idea that fresh is best, but we just don’t know how fresh the food is. Frozen food is often frozen at source. I love buying things like frozen mackerel fillets – if I want a quick meal, then I cook the mackerel, get some rice on, cook frozen edamame and peas, and make a lovely miso and ginger dressing for it. To me, good food is looking forward to what you’re having, not rushing, and it should leave you feeling good. To listen to a longer chat with Melissa, tune into the Good Food podcast. Listen at goodfood.com/podcasts or wherever you get your podcasts.
weekend
Chicken, coconut & green bean adobo Everyone with a Filipino mum thinks their mum makes the best adobo. There are hundreds of variations, with chicken, fish or pork, and strong opinions on crispy skin versus stewed and soft. It’s the unofficial national dish of the Philippines and most people’s introduction to the joy of Filipino food. SERVES 8 PREP 10 mins plus resting COOK 50 mins EASY
8 chicken thighs 10 garlic cloves, finely chopped 400ml can full-fat coconut milk, or 400ml water (or use 200ml each) 4 bay leaves 9 tbsp apple cider vinegar 7 tbsp tamari, or 6 tbsp tamari plus 1 tbsp fish sauce 2cm piece of ginger, finely grated (optional) chilli flakes, to taste 600g green beans, topped but not tailed 4 spring onions, thinly sliced
1 Heat the oven to 230C/210C fan/ gas 8. Combine everything but the green beans and spring onions together with 1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper in a wide, ovenproof frying pan, so the chicken pieces are in a single layer and skin-side down. 2 Cover the pan with the lid and put in the oven for 20 mins. 3 Take the hot pan out of the oven, turn the oven up to 240C/220C fan/ gas 9 and add the green beans, stirring them into the sauce. Turn the chicken skin-side up and let it sit on top of the beans. Put the lid back on and cook for 15 mins more. 4 Take the lid off and bake for another 15 mins until the skin is browned and the chicken cooked through. You could turn the grill on high for a few minutes to crisp it up further. 5 Taste for seasoning – you could add a little more tamari, sea salt or chilli at this point, and stir it
melissa’s tip If you like less sauce, remove the chicken when it’s cooked and let the sauce reduce in the oven.
through the sauce. Just be careful not to stir the sauce over the chicken to keep the skin crispy. Leave to rest for 10 mins before topping with the spring onions and serving. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 344 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 11g • carbs 6g • sugars 3g • fibre 4g • protein 24g • salt 1.74g
Make it veggie
For a veggie swap, use a 1kg mix of sweet potatoes and potatoes instead of the chicken, which is also a quicker option. Add 2cm chunks of potato during step 1 instead of the chicken, then carry on as instructed until the end of step 3, when the potatoes and green beans should be tender.
Recipe adapted from Eat Green by Melissa Hemsley (£26, Ebury Press). Photographs by Philippa Langley.
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 105
HOLIDAYS
Enjoy a seaside getaway at Rick Stein’s St Petroc’s
Take a two-night foodie escape and enjoy an à la carte dinner, champagne lunch, complimentary bottle of wine and signed copy of Rick Stein’s latest book
From
£385pp* for a two-night stay
Stays until 31 October 2025 This cosy restaurant in Padstow has 10 bedrooms arranged above the atmospheric dining space. You’ll have a restorative harbourside retreat with easy access to scenic coastal walks and activities, as well as some of Cornwall’s excellent eateries. Rick Stein and his family run a number of restaurants and establishments in Padstow; and included in your stay is a delicious three-course lunch with champagne at The Seafood Restaurant, as well as a three-course à la carte dinner at St Petroc’s. You’ll also receive a bottle of Stein’s red or white wine, plus cheese and charcuterie at Ruby’s Bar, below St Petroc’s restaurant, and a
signed copy of Rick’s latest book Food Stories will be waiting for you in your room on arrival. When it comes to laying your head down for the night, you’ll head up to your Cosy Room (upgrades available) furnished with crisp linens, and a bathroom with fluffy white towels. Alternatively, spend some time in the snug bar or help yourself to something from the guest pantry. And if you’d like to bring your four-legged friend, St Petroc’s is dog-friendly too. There’s an extra charge of £15 per day for dogs, which includes a blanket, bowl, treats and a toy, all of which you’re welcome to take home after your stay.
What’s included ● A two-night stay at St
Petroc’s in a Cosy Room (upgrades available) ● A set three-course lunch in The Seafood Restaurant with a glass of champagne ● A three-course à la carte dinner in St Petroc’s Bistro ● A bottle of Rick Stein’s Spanish wine, plus cheese and charcuterie in Ruby’s Bar ● A signed copy of Rick’s latest book Food Stories in the room on arrival
TO BOOK Call 033321 428 201 and quote ‘GOOD FOOD’ or for more information visit gf.tripsmiths.com/stpetrocs New offer and extra dates coming soon – see the website above for details TERMS & CONDITIONS *Price is per person, based on two people sharing a Cosy Room for a two-night stay, subject to availability. Single occupancy is available at a reduction of £123 per night. Price and itinerary correct at time of print but may be subject to change. Full payment is taken 21 days prior to arrival. Fourteen days’ notice prior to arrival is required in the event of a date amendment or cancellation. Travel insurance is not included and should be taken out at time of booking. Images used may not reflect your actual tour experience. Offer is operated by and subject to the booking conditions of Seafood Trading Ltd.
106 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
weekend
Put a fresh spin
on an old fashioned Ease into autumn with this slow-sipping cocktail and stock your drinks trolley with something new recipe HANNAH GUINNESS
Bourbon & apple fizz Apple and whisky are a great match. Garnish with fresh, seasonal apple – a redskinned Gala works well. SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins EASY V
50ml bourbon 25ml lemon juice dash of Angostura bitters ice sparkling apple juice, to top up apple slices, to garnish
1 Put the bourbon, lemon juice and Angostura bitters in a cocktail shaker filled with ice, and shake well to combine. 2 Strain the cocktail into a highball glass filled with ice, then top up with sparkling apple juice and garnish with slices of apple. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 205 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 25g • sugars 25g • fibre none • protein 0.1g • salt 0.03g
Best buys
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN SEPTEMBER WHISKY THE BUSKER SINGLE MALT IRISH WHISKEY This contemporary whisky is a great budget-friendly single malt with stewed fruit and malt notes on the palate, and a sweet, creamy finish. £35.25 (70cl), thewhiskyexchange.com CORDIAL CHRISTOPHER’S CORDIAL GOOSEBERRY & LIME Not your standard squash – this premium cordial makes non-alcoholic options feel special. British gooseberry and tart lime juices create a tangy, well-rounded drink. £11.50 (350ml), christopherscordials.com NON-ALCOHOLIC FEVER-TREE ITALIAN SPRITZ Extend the summer feeling with a alcohol-free spritz inspired by Italian aperitifs. Blood orange soda and herby botanicals mean you won’t miss the alcohol in this crisp, bittersweet fizz. £1.90 per 250ml can, Sainsbury’s and Waitrose & Partners BEER ANSPACH & HOBDAY LONDON BLACK Named Britain’s best beer, this Bermondsey nitro porter is rich, creamy and perfect for transitional evenings from summer to autumn. £3.75 per 450ml can (4.4% ABV), anspachandhobday.com
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 107
HOLIDAYS
From
£1,449pp*
Journey through a winter wonderland
Set sail on one of these magical Christmastime cruises along the Danube Christmas on the Danube 8 days/7 nights from £2,399pp December 2025 and December 2026
The Danube’s Imperial Cities & Yuletide Markets 6 days/5 nights from £1,449pp December 2025, November and December 2026
Enjoy seven festive tours including Vienna, Budapest, Bratislava, Salzburg or Linz, plus visits to Esztergom, Melk Abbey and Schönbrunn Palace. Enjoy a Christmas Day gala dinner, Yuletide market treats and on-board entertainment including a classical recital and Hungarian folklore show – all in majestic surroundings.
Enjoy a guided tour of Budapest, the imperial city split by the Danube, and cruise the dramatic Danube Bend in winter. Explore Bratislava’s charming old town and festive markets. Discover Vienna on a guided tour, with time to browse its traditional Christmas stalls. Relax on board as you take in stunning river views. Return to Budapest for more festive fun and shopping in its seasonal markets, soaking up the magical atmosphere of this beautiful capital during the holidays.
Holiday includes ● Return flights plus transfers ● Seven nights on board a five-star ship ● Your choice of spacious cabins with window or
Holiday includes
French balcony ● Delicious full board dining, plus Christmas Dinner and the Chef’s Dinner ● Free drinks package** ● Complimentary on-board tea, coffee, and Wi-Fi (connection speeds may vary) ● Expert Riviera Cruise Director & Concierge ● All port charges & airport taxes ● 20kg+ checked luggage ● Six guided tours including Esztergom Basilica, charming Bratislava, historic Melk Abbey, baroque Linz or magnificent Salzburg, elegant Vienna and captivating Budapest ● Visit to Schönbrunn Palace ● Christmas Day gala dinner
● Return flights plus transfers ● Five nights on board a five-star ship ● Your choice of spacious cabins with window or French
balcony ● Delicious full board dining, plus Chef’s Dinner ● Free drinks package** ● Complimentary on-board tea, coffee and Wi-Fi
(connection speeds may vary) ● Expert Riviera Cruise Director & Concierge ● All port charges & airport taxes ● 20kg+ checked luggage ● Three guided tours and Christmas market visits in
Budapest, charming Bratislava and elegant Vienna
TO REQUEST A BROCHURE Call 01283 742 398 and quote ‘Good Food’ OR TO BOOK visit rivieratravel.com/gfd TERMS & CONDITIONS *Prices are based on two people sharing and are correct at time of print. Single supplements may apply. Holidays are operated by and subject to booking conditions of Riviera Travel, ABTA V4744 ATOL 3430 protected. Subject to availability. Additional entrance costs may apply. Images used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. **2025 river cruises include an unlimited quantity of drinks at lunch and from 6pm to midnight while on board (selected drinks available), 2026 river cruises include an unlimited quantity of drinks from 10am to midnight while on board (selected drinks available).
108 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
IN the K N OW
Sharpen your skills in the kitchen with our expert guides and make a note of the latest cookbooks and events to catch
Next level Goulash, p112
Learn something new
Perfect pasta, p110
Cook the books
Fish moilee, p115 SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 109
Learn something H OW TO E L E VAT E NEW
YO U R
pa sta
The key to not overcooking it When I see how people cook pasta at home, I’m amazed how often it’s overdone. You need a big pot of salty water, and I mean salty like the sea, but don’t worry, it won’t over-season the pasta. I use about 120g dried pasta per person, but I adjust that depending on the sauce. If it’s tomato sauce or ragù, I use slightly less, if it’s something light such as garlic and chilli, I use a little more. The key is to cook the pasta a few minutes less than the packet says, then finish cooking it in the sauce with a ladle or two of pasta water. You allow the water to evaporate leaving you with the starch which helps to emulsify everything, creating a glossy, well-coated finish. I never actually drain pasta, I use tongs or a slotted spoon to lift it from the water into the pan of sauce, bringing some of that precious water along with it. Once everything’s emulsified and glossy, you can add herbs or cheese to finish. You’ll end up with the two elements coming together to make one, coherent dish, not a dish of pasta with sauce.
FRES H VS D RIED Neither is ‘better’. I’ll use fresh pasta for ragùs or stuffed shapes like ravioli, and dried for seafood or tomato-based sauces. It depends on the region too. Up north, pasta is made with eggs, down south it’s usually semolina and water. When buying dried, look for bronze die-cut, slow-dried pasta. It’ll feel rough like light sandpaper which means it’ll hold sauce brilliantly and being slow-dried makes it easier to digest. I look for brands from Gragnano in Southern Italy, the home of dried pasta, which is a sign of quality as well.
110 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
in the know
Perfect your pasta with expert tips from top chef Theo Randall, plus, his ultimate tomato sauce
WHAT’S TH E O N E ... ... pasta dish you can’t not order? Spaghetti alle vongole – always bianco, never tomato. Or spaghetti bottarga. I’ll always order it if it’s on the menu – it shows real skill.
HOMEMADE PASTA The classic rule is one egg per 100g flour, but my go-to mix is 350g tipo 00 flour, 25g fine semolina, 2 whole eggs and 4 yolks, with a splash of water if needed. Always mix the pasta by hand – it gives you a feel for the dough. If it’s hot out or your eggs are different sizes, that matters. Once the dough’s rested and worked through the machine, it’s perfect for ravioli, pappardelle or tagliatelle.
...pasta dish you choose for feeding a crowd? Something with mezze maniche, a great shape that holds sauce beautifully. ...biggest mistake home cooks make? Cooking before you’re ready. Chop, prep and organise first – don’t heat the pan, and then start slicing garlic. Good timing and clear space make everything easier.
...perfect dessert to follow pasta? Depending on the season, fruit like peaches or strawberries work well, or my lemon tart works year-round. ... sustainable British ingredient we should use more of? Dandelions, definitely. They grow everywhere and are full of flavour. I love them in frittatas. In spring, nettles are brilliant too – I pick mine in Hyde Park for pasta classes at the restaurant. ... storecupboard ingredient you won’t compromise on? Olive oil. I keep two types – a cheaper one for cooking and a fresh one for finishing. That final drizzle lifts everything.
SHAPES & SAUCES There’s a pasta for every sauce and a sauce for every pasta. Chunky ragù? Go for ridged or cupped shapes. Creamy sauce? A smoother shape like rigatoni works best.
The perfect pomodoro I think the best tomato sauce is made with 50/50 fresh and tinned tomatoes. Start with sliced garlic cooked gently for 30 seconds in olive oil, add basil to infuse the oil, then blended fresh plum tomatoes (skin and all). Reduce by half, then stir in a can of polpa tomatoes and reduce again. Finish with fresh basil and a drizzle of good olive oil.
& Fancy making pasta tonight? See pages 10, 28 and 51 for inspiration.
Theo Randall is chef-patron of Theo Randall Cucina Italiana at The InterContinental and runs a monthly four course regional Italian menu with wine pairings for £75. @icparklane @theo.randall
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 111
GOULASH
Perfect this Hungarian stew using seasonal sweet red peppers and serve with lots of crusty bread
Next level beef goulash Though traditionally made with beef, this stew-like dish has as many versions as there are cooks who make it. Here we’ve applied our best tips for slow-cooking meat, from choosing the right cut to simmering it gently, and included flavour boosters like wine. Stew is often seen as wintry, but goulash is great year-round, as it’s sweet with paprika and peppers. It takes time to make, but rewards you with rich sauce that can be served with crusty bread or buttered noodles. SERVES 6 PREP 30 mins COOK 3 hrs MORE EFFORT
1kg stewing beef, cut into chunky 5cm cubes (beef shin works well – it’s best to buy whole and chop it yourself) 1 tbsp plain flour 2 tbsp olive oil 50g butter 3 large onions, finely sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbsp sweet paprika, plus extra to serve 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp caraway seeds ½ tsp sugar 1 tbsp tomato purée 200ml dry white wine 500ml beef stock 1 bay leaf
2 red peppers ½ lemon, juiced 150g soured cream 1 tbsp finely chopped chives or parsley and crusty bread or buttered noodles, to serve
1 Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/ gas 3. Season the beef generously, then toss in the flour. Heat the oil and butter in a large, heavy-based, shallow flameproof casserole over a medium-high heat and, working in batches, brown the beef all over until crusted and brown, transferring the cooked batches to a plate as you go so you don’t overcrowd the pan. 2 Reduce the heat, tip in the onions and season with salt. Fry gently for 8-10 mins, stirring occasionally until soft, golden and starting to caramelise, scraping up any browned bits. Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 min more. Scatter in both paprikas, the caraway seeds and sugar, and cook for a minute more. Squeeze in the tomato purée and cook for another minute. By now, you may notice a deep brown paste sticking to the base of the pan – don’t worry about this, as it will add flavour to the finished dish. 3 Pour in the wine, scraping up all the sticky paste from the base, and bubble for 2 mins. Return the beef to the pan along with any resting juices, then add the stock and bay
112 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
leaf. Bring the mixture to a simmer, then cover with the lid and transfer to the oven. Cook for 2 hrs, stirring about every 30 mins until the beef is meltingly tender. 4 Meanwhile, blacken the peppers. If you have a gas hob, hold the peppers over the flame using tongs, turning until blistered and charred all over. Or, heat the grill to high. Put the peppers on a baking tray and grill for 8-10 mins until blistered and blackened all over, turning with tongs as needed. Transfer the blackened peppers to a bowl, cover and leave until cool enough to handle. Peel off the skins, scrape away the seeds and slice into strips. Reserve any juice that has collected in the bowl. 5 When the goulash is ready, stir through the grilled pepper strips and any juices from the bowl. Taste for seasoning and squeeze in the lemon juice. Gently swirl in 100g of the soured cream, but don’t let the mixture boil once it has been added. Serve topped with the remaining 50g soured cream, a scattering of chives or parsley and more paprika. Serve with plenty of crusty bread or buttered noodles, if you prefer. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 472 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 12g • carbs 13g • sugars 11g • fibre 5g • protein 36g • salt 0.42g
Shoot director RACHEL BAYLY | Food stylist ELLIE JARVIS | Stylist FAYE WEARS
recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph MELISSA REYNOLDS-JAMES
in the know
next month
ROAST CHICKEN & GRAVY Make the best version of a comforting classic in our next issue (on sale 18 September).
Our top tips THE R IGHT CUT We recommend beef shin because it provides the best balance of fat for flavour.
BE THE BUTCHER If you can, always opt to dice your own meat. Prepackaged diced stewing beef can be irregular, and is often
chopped too small, meaning that the beef cooks unevenly.
FLOUR POW ER You can either flour the meat or add flour to the stew itself to thicken the goulash, but we’ve gone with the former, as it helps build up a brilliant crust on the meat and
means you avoid the pasty flavour of raw flour in the stew.
GET CA R AWAY Caraway seeds provide a unique flavour – toasting the seeds with the onions amplifies it.
PICK A PEPPER Goulash doesn’t always include peppers, but they
add flavour and substance. For smoky sweetness, we’ve grilled them – an extra step worth doing.
SW EET & SMOK ED Different types of paprika provide different flavour profiles, which is why we’ve added both sweet for subtle heat (if you
have Hungarian paprika, use this instead) and smoked for a deeper flavour note.
END ON A TA NGY NOTE A splash of wine adds depth of flavour and acidity to the braise, which is then amplified with a finishing squeeze of lemon.
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 113
B O O KS
for C O O KS
Our resident reviewer Fiona Forman tries a Goan fish curry from Bindas by Mehak Kansal and explores other new titles recipe photograph SAM FOLAN
Mehak’s journey to becoming a chef was not an easy one. She grew up in Wiltshire and was bullied at school over her “smelly lunch boxes”. Mehak says, “My classmates would have cheese and pickle sandwiches, and mine would be leftover sabzi (any Indian vegetable dish) in a sandwich. I went through a stage of not appreciating my roots as I was trying to fit in and not be ‘too Indian’.” But at the age of 13, she fell in love with cooking after a trip to India to her grandmother’s house. “My grandmother had the most wonderful cook at home who made fabulous food. The smells seeping from his kitchen were intoxicating. He would make hot, fluffy, puffed-up fried breads known as bhaturas, which he served with a spicy chickpea curry and a homemade turmeric, chilli, ginger and turnip pickle.” She took on the role of the family cook, which continued until university, where she was known for her delicious makhani (butter chicken). She started work as a paralegal, then joined the family business but fell into a depression – as she puts it, “suffocating in a pressure cooker of stress”. Her outlet came in blogging about Indian recipes before hosting her first supper club, then entering a competition to win a food pop-up in London’s Westfield, with mentorship from chef Omar Allibhoy. She won, giving her the confidence to cook full-time, “I felt validated, and realised that food, cooking and curating recipes would be my salvation.” Her restaurant, Bindas Eatery, now has a site at Mercato Mayfair. In the book you’ll find modern takes on Indian dishes, from street eats (her masala potato skins and Bombay cheese toast look incredibls) to curries, including her famous makhani, aloo gobi and aubergine bharta. There are also grills, salads, naan-based dishes and desserts including a genius chai-infused take on tiramisu. I try the fish moilee, Goan coconut curry (opposite). All the ingredients were easy to get hold of, and it was so quick and simple to make – ready in the time it took to cook the brown rice to go with it. It was rich, creamy and subtly spiced, with a background tang from the lime leaves. I usually make fish curries with white fish cut into chunks, but having a whole sea bass fillet feels like a real treat. All it needs is some roti or naan to mop up the richly aromatic sauce. 114 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
Mexican Table by Thomasina Miers (£28, Quadrille) Wahaca co-founder Thomasina Miers recently returned to Mexico for a six-month sabbatical and this book is a culmination of her time there. Thomasina expertly shows how to turn staple ingredients such as beans, tomatoes and chocolate into vibrant tacos, salads, cakes, desserts and cocktails. See next month’s issue of Good Food for recipes. Sugar & Spice by Remi Idowu (£26, Ebury Press) Remi Idowu, gained a huge following on social media sharing her incredible savoury and sweet recipes under @FoodbyRemi. She’s now released her first cookbook where she shares a little bit of all her favourite things – easy weeknight wins, fakeaways, hearty Ghanaian dishes, desserts and bakes. From gochujang chicken kyiv and West African fried rice to almond croissant cookies, her recipes are ecclectic, bold and guaranteed to make you smile.
in the know
Mehak’s recipe Fish moilee Moilee is a Goan coconut-based aromatic curry that is layered with curry leaves, lime leaves and mustard seeds. It is usually made with seafood; here, I have used pan-fried sea bass. MK SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY
4 boneless white fish fillets (such as sea bass) 1 tsp ground turmeric 2 tsp coconut oil or olive oil 2 tsp butter For the curry 2 tbsp coconut oil or olive oil 1 tsp mustard seeds 1 tsp fennel seeds 6 fresh curry leaves 4 fresh makrut lime leaves 1 tbsp garlic purée 1 tbsp ginger purée 1-3 large red chillies, roughly chopped 1 onion, diced 1 tsp garam masala 1 tsp ground turmeric, plus extra for dusting 400g can extra-rich coconut milk 2 tbsp light brown soft sugar 1½ limes, zested and juiced 2 spring onions, chopped To serve 1 spring onion, finely chopped 1 red chilli, finely chopped handful of coriander, chopped
1 Begin by making the curry. Heat the oil in a deep, heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat. Once hot, add the mustard seeds, fennel seeds, curry leaves and makrut lime leaves. Let them pop and sizzle for 10 seconds, then add the garlic, ginger, chillies and onion. Sauté for 5-10 mins until the onion starts to brown and caramelise. 2 Add the ground spices and mix well, then stir in the coconut milk,
sugar and lime zest. Stir in the juice of 1 lime (save the rest of the juice for the fish) and season with a generous pinch of salt. Reduce the heat to low and let it simmer for 8-10 mins to reduce and thicken. 3 Meanwhile, cook the fish. Rub the sea bass fillets with the turmeric, season with salt and pepper, and squeeze over the remaining lime juice. Heat the oil with the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat. Once hot, add the fish fillets, skin-side down, and cook
for 5 mins until the skin is crispy. Turn and cook on the other side for 2 mins before flipping back. 4 When everything is ready, stir 2 chopped spring onions into the curry, then place the fish fillets on top. Garnish with the remaining finely chopped spring onion, chilli and coriander to serve. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • gluten free PER SERVING 484 kcals • fat 34g • saturates 23g • carbs 18g • sugars 16g • fibre 2g • protein 25g • salt 0.55g
Recipe adapted from Bindas: Comfort Food with an Indian Soul by Mehak Kansal (£23, Murdoch Books). Photographs © Sam Folan 2025.
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 115
Unlock your digital 2 for 1 Gardens card now! Easy access to the 2 for 1 Gardens and entry card on your mobile device
Over
400 380 gardens gardens to to visit visit
■ Digital card to add to
your mobile wallet ■ Easy to search listings ■
Interactive map
■ Free to download
Now with interactive map feature!
For easy access to discounts on your garden visits, activate your digital 2 for 1 Gardens card using your unique activation code on the inside cover flap of your 2 for 1 Gardens guide. Don’t have the app yet? Download the 2 for 1 Gardens app now, available on iOS and Android. Terms & Conditions Valid until 2 April 2026. The 2 for 1 Gardens physical card and digital card cannot be used on the same day at the same gardens. Only one card can be used on the day of your garden visits. Some restrictions may apply.
in the know
GET OUT AND ABOUT Celebrate mushrooms in West Sussex, try Northern Ireland’s best ciders or eat lobster at sunset on the Isles of Scilly compiled by RACHEL GUNTER
Sample ciders in the Orchard County of Armagh over a long weekend
All Things Fungi Festival
Photographs: DANNY NORTH
12-14 September Explore everything fungi, from soil health to how mushrooms can support mental wellness – with the overarching aim of helping you reconnect with nature. Plus, take part in yoga and relax with live music and entertainment. Location: Chiddinglye Estate, West Sussex Tickets: day tickets from £80, allthingsfungi.co.uk
Festival of Food and Drink
Taste of Scilly
20-21 September Visit this two-day festival to shop from over 150 traders, take in cooking demos from celebrity chefs and enjoy plenty of live music. Location: Thoresby Park, Nottinghamshire Tickets: from £12 for adults and £8 for children (children under six go free), festivaloffoodanddrink.com
12-21 September Showcasing local producers and eateries, this 10-day food event enhances a trip to the picturesque Isles of Scilly through pop-up dining experiences like sunset lobster nights. Location: Isles of Scilly, Cornish coast Tickets: priced per event, visitislesofscilly.com/event/taste-ofscilly-festival
Great British Food Festival
Food and Cider Weekend
6-7 September This national festival makes its way to beautiful Margam Park, bringing a barbecue stage, artisan market, mini zoo, foraging walks and more with it for a great family day out. Location: Margam Park, South Wales Tickets: from £15 for adults and £7.50 for children (children under five go free), greatbritishfoodfestival.com
4-7 September See why Armagh earned the nickname ‘Orchard County’ during a long weekend of farm-to-fork dinners, behind-the-scenes orchard tours, cider tastings, foraged lunch events and talks with experts. Location: Armagh, Northern Ireland Tickets: priced per event, visitarmagh.com/festivals/food-cider
Explore the cuisine of the Isles of Scilly during pop-up events
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 117
HOLIDAYS
From
£2,499pp*
Cruise Bordeaux for seven nights with Tom Kitchin Taste your way around this French idyll with the celebrity chef 19-26 April 2026 Beginning and ending in Bordeaux, this cruise takes you through breathtaking rural scenery in Fort Médoc, Cadillac, Blaye and Libourne. With shore excursions included, you’ll visit historic landmarks, archaeological sites and world-class vineyards, where you’ll sample fine wines. Joining you for part of this foodie voyage is top chef Tom Kitchin, who’ll host a cooking demonstration on board and answer your questions in a Q&A session. Tom will also join you on an excursion to the Libourne farmers’ market, known for all the local and seasonal produce on offer. Further highlights include travelling along the Route de la Corniche Fleurie, seeing the impressive Blaye fortress and Lansac windmill along the way, sampling Sauternes at the Château Royal de Cazeneuve and experiencing a night out at Bordeaux’s Port de la Lune at the Bassins des Lumières,
where stunning light displays illuminate the historic submarine base.
What’s included ● Seven-night cruise in a Riverview
Stateroom on board the five-star ship SS Bon Voyage ● All meals on board prepared using the finest and freshest ingredients ● Captain’s welcome and farewell receptions and gala dinners ● Unlimited beverages on board, including fine wine, beer, spirits, specialty coffee and tea, soft drinks, and mineral water ● Six days of excursions, all hosted by English-speaking local experts ● Use of portable audio-headset and Nordic walking sticks on excursions ● Talk, Q&A, visit to Libourne farmers’ market and on-board cookery demonstration with chef Tom Kitchin ● Onboard gratuities ● Services of a cruise manager ● Return flights and group transfers
TO BOOK Call 03308 220 610 and quote ‘Good Food’ OR FOR MORE INFORMATION visit gf.tripsmiths.com/bordeauxkitchin TERMS & CONDITIONS *From price is per person, based on two people sharing a classic stateroom, subject to availability. Price and itinerary correct at time of print but may be subject to change. Single supplement applies. Deposit 20%. Local charges such as tourist tax may apply. Offers are not valid in conjunction with any other offers or promotions. In the case of unforeseen circumstances, expert(s) may be substituted, and any expert-led events may be subject to change. Expert(s) will not join you for your full trip duration unless otherwise stated. Travel insurance is not included and should be taken out at time of booking. This holiday may be sold through other selected brands. Images used may not reflect your actual tour experience. Tour is operated by and subject to the booking conditions of TS Travel Ltd (ATOL bonded) and Uniworld River Cruises Limited.
118 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
in the know
5 of the best
BAKING ESSENTIALS Create showstopping cakes, traybakes and more with these tried-and-tested tools words NATALIE BASS
Best loaf tin
Best mixing bowl
Best kitchen scales
Falcon loaf tin
Mason Cash kitchen mixing bowl
ProCook glass digital scales
Available in classic white with a blue rim, grey and red, this 3lb cake tin is ideal for larger loaf cakes or breads. All our bakes released easily thanks to the smooth enamel coating, which wiped clean with little-to-no effort. Despite the absence of handles, we also liked the subtle lip on the underside of the tin, which provided just enough grip to remove it from the hot oven without any safety concerns. Available from Season Cookshop (£32.50)
Heavy, solid and sturdy, this 29cm bowl is perfect for large families or anyone making big cakes regularly. We liked that it can be tilted on its side, which allowed us to get more air in our cake mixture once we’d added the eggs. It’s also microwave-safe (though as it’s so large, it might not fit some standard-sized microwaves, so be sure to measure first), and it can go in the dishwasher, too. Available from Harts of Stur (£24.50)
Whether you’re a novice cook or experienced baker, a set of kitchen scales helps you achieve reliably good results. This option from ProCook is sleek yet practical and weighs in imperial, metric and liquid measurements. The tempered glass surface helpfully features a raft of conversion charts, and while the screen doesn’t light up while in use, the large display is easy to read, allowing you to add and weigh without fuss. Available from ProCook (£14)
Best hand mixer
Best stand mixer
Dualit hand mixer
Kenwood Titanium Chef Patissier XL
A good hand mixer – sometimes called a hand whisk – can make light work of tiresome tasks like whisking egg whites or cream, and this shiny chrome model from Dualit certainly delivers. With a 400W motor, it’s a little heavy and there are only four speed settings, but each packs a punch – at the top speed, this mixer really flies. We also liked the retractable cable storage, which tucks the cord neatly away inside the machine. Available from Lakeland (£74.99)
For bakers wanting to make larger quantities, this Kenwood is a sophisticated, fail-safe choice. Key features are the integrated weighing and warming functions, which work in tandem with the seven-litre EasyWarm bowl – this has two practical handles for simple loading and arrives with a second 5-litre bowl nested inside. In test, the attachments reached every bit of mixture in the bowl, produced fluffy cakes and well-risen, enriched doughs. Available from Kenwood (£799.99)
We test and research a range of products in each category to ensure every budget is represented. Products must meet criteria to be shortlisted, including nationwide availability through an online retailer. Shortlists for testing always include a minimum of 10 products. Test matrices have specified testing criteria, including sustainability, energy usage and packaging.
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 119
Prices correct at time of printing
HOW WE CONDUCT OUR REVIEWS
27ñ30 November 2025 NEC, BIRMINGHAM
Bring on the Introducing the line-up of workshops taking place at the Good Food Show Winter Ready to roll up your sleeves? The Good Food Show Winter is packed with hands-on workshops, tastings and masterclasses designed to add some serious festive fun to your day. Along with returning favourites, don’t miss the brand-new Christmas Table experience, where you can enjoy intimate, elevated sessions hosted by some of your favourite show stars. Take a look at what’s in store and make sure to book your tickets and secure your spot!
Love At Step aboard the Love At First Bite Restaurant by Princess Cruises – a dining experience inspired by the world-class cuisine found across their fleet. Enjoy signature dishes, curated wine pairings and bespoke cocktails, all served in an immersive setting that brings the flavour and flair of cruising with Princess to life.
Take a seat & get
SUBSCR
IBER CL
The Christmas Table is your chance to get hands-on in an elevated, intimate workshop led by show stars including Andy Clarke and Cyrus Todiwala. From cocktail shaking to mastering masala spices, it’s festive fun with a touch of flair, perfect for learning something new, while having some fun with your loved ones.
UB
SAVE 25% * using you r number wunique 10-digit hen booki ng
& discover Select a Fabulous Food Finds tasting for flavour-filled sessions hosted by Katy Truss and find new treats in festive and mystery tastings. Plus, discover your new favourite pour at the Good Food Wine Club, with experts Laithwaites, as you sip your way through a selection of their seasonal and premium wines.
%∅ N WLFNHWV QRZ Good Food readers save 20%* on admission when you use code GFR3.
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*20% off and subscriber 25% off valid on adult/standard entry tickets - offer ends 23:59pm 1 September 2025. All offers exclude Saturday, VIP tickets, two-day tickets, added extras, not valid with any other offer. £3.95 transaction fee per e-ticket per order, not all celebrities appear on all days and the line-up is subject to change. Details correct at time of print. Organised and presented by Immediate Live.
HOLIDAYS
Discover the beauty of Italy and Tenerife
Save up to
£75*
Experience Lake Como or Tenerife on these exciting tours
Lake Como, Milan and St Moritz
Tenerife Coast and Country
Eight days/seven nights, Oct 2025 to Oct 2026 From £1199pp* using code GF50
Eight days/seven nights, Sept 2025 to Nov 2026 From £839pp* using code GF50
Explore Lake Como and experience its dramatic scenery, rich culture and incredible weather. On this holiday, we’ll uncover the best of Lake Como including a relaxing boat tour with a stop at one of the most picturesque lakeside towns, Bellagio. We’ll also discover the delights of the Italian and Swiss Alps on a unique sightseeing journey on the Bernina Express and visit the Alpine towns of Tirano, Chiavenna and St Moritz.
On this relaxing Spanish holiday, you’ll explore the best of the island’s amazing scenery and fascinating history. Excursions include visits to UNESCO World Heritage city La Laguna; the joint capital of the Canary Islands, Santa Cruz; and a full-day sightseeing trip around the island. You’ll also get to explore the island’s rugged mountainous landscape on a day trip to Teide National Park to see the volcano that contributed to Tenerife’s formation 175,000 years ago.
What’s included ● Discover Lake Como and see why the rich and famous have
What’s included
been travelling there for centuries. ● Stay seven nights in lakeside towns Menaggio or Tremezzo. ● Enjoy a half-day scenic boat cruise on Lake Como stopping at the town of Bellagio. ● Venture into the nearby Swiss Alps with a panoramic train journey on the Bernina Express. ● Unwind with plenty of free time to swim, shop or just explore quaint towns dotted along the lake. ● Holidays include flights, accommodation, transfers and expert-led guided tours.
● Stay in the seaside town of Puerto de la Cruz, known for
its volcanic sand beaches and saltwater pools. ● Venture to La Laguna for half a day. ● Enjoy a half-day excursion to two of the island’s largest
cities, Santa Cruz and Candelaria. ● Take in some of Tenerife’s most spectacular landscapes on
a full-day guided tour of the island. ● Relax and unwind with plenty of free time to soak up the
sun or explore at your own pace. ● Holidays include flights, accommodation, transfers and
expert-led guided tours.
TO SEE THE FULL RANGE OF HOLIDAYS AVAILABLE
Visit traveldepartment.co.uk/gf OR CALL 0208 125 3827 quoting ‘Good Food ’ TERMS & CONDITIONS *Offer valid for all new bookings made between 14 August and 31 December 2025. £75pp off holidays of eight nights or more using code GF75, £50pp off holidays of seven nights using code GF50 and £25pp off holidays of six nights or fewer using code GF25. Flights available from London, Scotland and Northern Ireland. Solo holidays available on some tours. Offers are non-transferrable, subject to availability, cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer and have no cash value. All deposits are non-refundable.
122 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
Going
c i n a ro g
GOOD FOOD DOESN’T HAVE TO COST THE EARTH Explore the benefits and considerations of choosing pesticide-free produce, both for the planet and for our health words MALLIKA BASU
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 123
3% The amount of UK farmland dedicated to organic farming remains stuck on 3%
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o you mull milk labels or analyse apples wondering whether to spend more for an organic version? You are not alone. Organic products often cost more than conventionally produced food and drink, and our household budgets aren’t getting any bigger. So, is it worth shelling out extra in the weekly shop? The roots of the organic movement in the UK took hold with pioneering farmer and scientist Lady Eve Balfour. In 1943, amidst rationing and the Second World War, she published The Living Soil, summarising her trials comparing organic and chemical farming methods. It challenged the use of synthetic fertilisers and intensive agriculture designed to increase the amount of food produced quickly and cheaply. Three years later, she co-founded the Soil Association. Today, the market for organic food is more buoyant than ever, hitting record sales last year according to the Soil Association.
However, the amount of farmland in the UK dedicated to organic farming “remains stuck on 3%” so we’re heavily reliant on imports. Its Organic September campaign aims to raise awareness about the benefits of these food and farming practices to encourage more of it. The choice to buy organic isn’t just for the wealthy. The Organic Research Centre’s 2024 Consumer
It’s about a specific set of standards that work with nature rather than against it Insight Report reveals that lowerand middle-income shoppers are now the most frequent buyers of organic food and drink. In fact, those in the highest income bracket tend to be “deal-seekers”, buying organic less often and only when prices align with conventional options.
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But what does organic mean on the ground? At its heart, it’s about a specific set of standards that work with nature rather than against it. These include no synthetic chemical pesticides or herbicides (weedkillers) unless specifically approved, no genetically modified organisms (GMOs) and high animal welfare standards, with strict rules on the use of antibiotics, feed and housing conditions. Organic farming uses practices that build soil health, such as crop rotation, which support nature. Convenience foods must meet further strict standards around what goes in and what’s left out. That means no artificial colours or preservatives and fewer ultra-processed ingredients. The Soil Association is the UK’s best known organic certifier, often setting higher standards than the legal minimum. It works alongside Organic Farmers & Growers (OF&G), which certifies over half of the UK’s organic land.
planet-friendlier
The case for organic food It’s a no-brainer from a planetary health perspective; chemical fertilisers and pesticides are depleting our soils and affecting biodiversity. Think fewer bees and birds, and the loss of millions of microbes that make soil thrive. These chemicals also run into waterways, disrupting nature. Over the past 60 years, research has shown a steady decline in the nutritional quality of our fruits, vegetables and food crops. This has been linked to chemical farming, soil degradation, rising CO₂ levels and the cultivation of high-yield crop varieties that prioritise speed over nutrition. Animal welfare is another strong argument. Much of our meat and dairy comes from animals raised quickly in confined spaces, with the help of antibiotics and growth enhancers. Organic farming gives animals space, better diets and a slower, more natural life.
Organic dairy cows, for instance, must eat a diet that’s at least 60 per cent forage – grasses and wild plants, not just processed feed. As clover is commonly used to enrich organic soil naturally, it ends up in the cows’ diet, boosting the omega-3 content of their milk and meat. Studies show organic milk and meat contain around 50 per cent more beneficial omega-3 fatty acids than their conventional counterparts. There is also the not-so-small matter of pesticide residues. When our fruits and vegetables are sprayed with chemical cocktails, these linger on the produce we eat ending up inside us. While it’s hard to quantify how much we can stomach, some groups – particularly babies, young children and teenagers – are likely more vulnerable as their bodies are still developing. Nick Mole from Pesticide Action Network UK explains:
“Far too little is known about how multiple pesticide residues interact with each other and the possible health effects that this might have.” Many are endocrine disruptors, chemicals that can interfere with our hormones, even at very low doses. Emerging research also shows that pesticide residues may disturb our gut microbiome – the community of microbes that support digestion, immunity and overall health. Reduced diversity in the gut has been linked to inflammation and a range of chronic issues. While the science is still unfolding, it provides one more reason to tread mindfully. •
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THE GREY AREA The overall health benefits of going organic are less clear-cut. As Shefalee Loth, nutritionist at Which?, explains: “Nutrition research is complex and expensive. The gold standard would be strict scientific methodology, but you can’t lock people in rooms for years and control everything they eat.” Instead, most research is observational, tracking what people say they eat over time. While there are hundreds of observational studies looking into the health benefits of organic foods, she stresses that these findings aren’t as conclusive. Our health, after all, depends on many things, not just what we eat but how much we move, how well we sleep, our stress levels and even our income. Shefalee notes that many gut health studies have been carried out in labs and on mice or rats and we can’t say for sure the same effects would be seen in humans. She adds, “Eating a wide variety of plant foods is beneficial (organic or not) and eating fermented foods may also have a positive effect. Medications and artificial sweeteners can negatively impact the diversity of your gut microbiome as can your environment, lifestyle, sleep patterns, alcohol and smoking. These are all likely to have more of an effect compared to whether you eat organic food or not.” Adding to the uncertainty is a lack of funding into research. Less than one per cent of all UK farming research goes to organic systems. Soil Association is working with the British Ecological Society on a meta-analysis to better understand organic farming’s impact, both environmentally and on human health.
Then there is the question of cost. Organic farming often involves more hands-on work, from weeding without chemicals to raising animals with space, time and care. An organic chicken, for example, lives twice as long as a conventional one and eats twice as much feed. Smaller economies of scale, certification fees and patchy supply chains all add up. Supermarket pricing can also make conventional food seem cheaper than it really is. Still, it doesn’t have to be this way. Co-ops like Manchester’s Unicorn Grocery have shown that organic produce can match, or even beat, conventional produce when pricing is transparent. While certification gives shoppers confidence, it’s not always practical for smaller food producers. “The bar can be really very high,” says Nick Jefferson of online farmer’s market Wylde. “If they’re selling into wholesalers or supermarkets, the return often doesn’t justify the effort.” Wylde does its own investigations on how suppliers operate and often turns them away. As Shefalee says, “Buying organic is a personal choice.” While it may not be possible for everyone, more people are prioritising it. With government support, such as Scotland’s Organic Action Plan, and more of us buying organic, the hope is that costs will fall and access will grow. Every time we choose organic, we’re voting with our wallets for better farming, fairer systems and food that values people as much as the planet. Going fully organic might not be possible for everyone, but there are small, smart choices that make a difference.
Every time we choose organic, we’re voting with our wallets for better farming, and food that values people as much as the planet
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planet-friendlier
Smart ways to go organic • Choose cheaper cuts of organic meat Use a slow cooker or pressure cooker to tenderise the meat and to maximise its flavour and goodness in the most cost-effective way. • Look in the freezer aisle The range of organic frozen fruits and vegetables is on the rise. • Stock up on household staples like beans, pulses and grains While more expensive than their conventional cousins, they’re still affordable and readily available. • Swap your spices A small change makes a big difference in taste and supports overseas farmers exposed to high levels of agricultural chemicals.
• Try a double soak New research shows that soaking smooth-skinned fruit like apples, pears, or grapes in a two-per-cent cornflour solution followed by five-per-cent bicarbonate of soda solution for 5-10 minutes each can remove more than 90 per cent of some pesticide residues. It won’t touch pesticides absorbed into the flesh, though.
Oats and citrus fruits are among the regular offenders when it comes to pesticide residues Mallika is a food writer and cookbook author. She writes an award-nominated newsletter called In Good Taste on food, people and the planet, and is a qualified expert on sustainability. @mallikabasu_
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Photographs ISTOCK GETTY IMAGES PLUS, PETER CADE/PHOTODISC/GETTY, ARMIR TROTA
• Know the worst offenders Check PAN UK’s annual Dirty Dozen list of fruit and veg with the highest pesticide residues. Oats and citrus fruits are regular offenders.
HOLIDAYS
Prices from
£1,489pp*
Escape to the coast Discover Portugal’s charm and Italy’s untamed beauty on these Riviera Travel breaks
New lower prices on select European tours in 2025**
Lisbon, Porto & the Douro Valley
Alghero, Costa Smeralda & Corsica
8 days/7 nights from £1,499pp* October 2025 to October 2026
8 days/7 nights from £1,489pp* October 2025 to October 2026
Experience the best of Portugal, from the maritime heritage of Lisbon to the National Palace of Sintra and Coimbra’s ancient university. Plus, discover Porto’s port lodges, the beautiful Douro Valley, and the chic resort of Cascais. Portugal’s landscapes are stunning. There is so much to discover, including vibrant cities, majestic palaces and cathedrals, and delicious produce – most famously, port dessert wine. You’ll experience them in full – from coastal forests and wild seascapes, to sweeping hillsides covered with olive trees.
Experience another side of Italy and France that’s vastly different, where pristine beaches nestle on dazzling coastlines, and traditional villages are inhabited by fiercely independent and wonderfully warm locals. Even the cuisine has its own identity. As DH Lawrence put it so succinctly: ‘This land resembles no other place.’
Tour includes ● Return flights and transfers ● 7 nights in four-star accommodation
Tour includes
● Daily breakfast and four dinners
● Return flights from a selection of regional airports with
● The services of our experienced tour manager
hotel transfers ● 7 nights in three-star superior and four-star accommodation ● Daily breakfast and up to three dinners, depending on hotel ● The services of our experienced and insightful tour manager
Experiences ● 2 guided tours, including Alghero and Bonifacio ● Visit Santu Antine Nuraghe, Costa Smeralda’s
picturesque villages and inland Sardinia ● Visit a family-owned agriturismo for a traditional
Experiences ● 2 guided tours, including Lisbon and Porto ● 9 visits including Sintra and its National Palace, the holy
shrine of Fátima, Pinhão, Coimbra University, Cascais, Óbidos and the Douro Valley
Sardinian dinner ● Enjoy a wine-tasting in one of the finest wine-growing
areas in Sardinia
Signature package also available – see the website for details
TO REQUEST A BROCHURE Call 01283 742 398 quoting ‘Good Food ’ OR TO BOOK visit rivieratravel.co.uk/gfd TERMS & CONDITIONS *Prices are based on two people sharing and are correct at time of print. Single supplements may apply. Holidays are operated by and subject to booking conditions of Riviera Travel, ABTA V4744 ATOL 3430 protected. Subject to availability. Additional entrance costs may apply. Images used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. **The saving value has already been applied as a price reduction to the advertised price. Limited availability, available on a first come first served basis. Riviera Travel reserves the right to remove departures from the offer at any time.
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planet-friendlier
Climate heroes ‘Why we launched the world’s most expensive flat white’ Faced with the collapse of his family’s dairy business, Bryce Cunningham, 38, of Mossgiel Organic Dairy in Mauchline, East Ayrshire, came up with an organic solution
Photosgraphs COLIN MEARNS
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arming is one of the first things that’s sold down the river by the government and the market — I wanted to change the whole narrative. I’m a third-generation farmer at Mossgiel; my grandpa came here in 1948, and then my dad took on the farm. I took over the business in 2015 when my dad and grandpa were both diagnosed with terminal health conditions. I was 27. I’d left the farm after school to do apprenticeships with Mercedes Benz and had worked my way up to management there. But when I came home, I discovered that their illnesses were much worse than I’d expected – they gave grandpa three months, and my dad a year. At the same time, the milk price had almost collapsed. It went from 27p to 9p per litre. As a result we lost just over £180,000 in the year. We were forced to sell most of our cows and machinery. We began selling our milk to the local community. I built a pasteuriser, and without realising, I created a new way of pasteurising; a “low and slow” method, which killed off the bacteria but meant the milk tasted as close to raw, creamy milk as possible. We became organic and in 2019, we cut out single-use plastic. Since 2021, we’ve been supplying all the milk to East Ayrshire schools. We’re the first such contract in Scotland where there’s no waste.
We’re one of only two dairy farms in Scotland that operates a ‘cow-withcalf’ system, where the calves are kept with their mothers. Last year, we launched ‘the world’s most expensive flat white’ where the price includes 34 shares in the farm to fund more sustainable production. We hope to sell our milk in London soon, and across the UK in the next couple of years. I think my dad and grandpa would be proud of me.’
If you can’t get Mossg iel milk where you are, how can yo u ensure your daily milk has as little impa ct on the planet as possible?
• Follow Mossg iel on soc ial media for inspiration. They ’re on Instag ram, Facebook and TikTok. • Resea rch how the mi lk industry works and consider changing your buying habits. Are there milk delivery ser vices in your area which use recyclabl e glass bottles? Where is your nearest organic da iry? • Dema nd for total org anic food and drink saw positive growth in 2024, increasing by 7.3% to reach ma rke t value of £3.7bn, according to the Soil As sociation. And according to ADHB (th e Ag riculture & Horticulture Develop ment Board) there’s been a 13.8% yea r-on-year increase in people buyin g British organic milk. You’ll be in good compa ny! • Find out more at mossg ielfarm.co.uk
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A short break in Bath Enjoy laid-back luxury in this historical city’s Georgian surroundings with a bustling contemporary food scene words CHRISTINE HAYES
Go out for tea There are few better places to take tea than the spectacular The Gainsborough Bath Spa. Housed in a Georgian building above the city’s ancient thermal springs, the hotel blends old-world elegance with modern comfort. Served in the laidback Canvas Room, tea includes delicate finger sandwiches, just-warmed scones with clotted cream and strawberry preserve, and traditional cakes such as battenberg and macarons. The tea selection includes a bespoke Gainsborough blend, or you can upgrade to a glass of champagne. Their signature hot chocolate is a recipe handed down 130 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
from the original spa apothecaries, now made with Valrhona cocoa and local honey. Ideal after a dip in the thermal waters. From £39 per person. thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk
Enjoy fresh produce from the South West Emberwood is the standout newcomer to Bath’s dining scene, tucked inside the Francis Hotel and built around a theatrical open kitchen where chefs work over a charcoal grill. Counter seating lets diners watch the action, particularly compelling as aged ex-dairy steaks from Westcombe or monkfish from the Cornish coast hit the coals. Chef David Hazell’s menu is rooted in the best of the South West, like courgette with wild garlic cacio e pepe, or beef shin and stout pie with cavolo nero. Old-school charm comes via the martini and dessert trolleys. Don’t miss the miso custard tart, which shows serious skill from the pastry section. Starters from £10, mains from £18. emberwoodbath.com
Photographs ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES PLUS, MR STANDFAST / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
B
ath spa and its waters have always been a draw and, recently, the sunny-coloured Georgian architecture has made a glorious backdrop to many a TV series or film. 2025 marks the 250th birthday of former resident Jane Austen and it’s the ideal place to celebrate her life (bonnets optional). Bath’s appearance is steeped in its history, but its food scene is modern.
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Chef David Hazell’s menu is rooted in the best of the South West
Visit Bath Farmers’ Market Every Saturday since 1997 Bath Farmers’ Market – the first of its kind in the UK – has set up in town. Produce and goods, if possible, come from within 40 miles of Bath. You’ll find everything from Westcombe cheese (try the cheddar) and Hinton Harvest’s slow-grown poultry, to local market garden-grown veg, baked goods, and beers and ciders. There’s plenty of picnic food, plus souvenirs such as honey, soaps, chocolate, plants and flowers. Find it at Green Park Station from 8.30am to 1.30pm. Traders change weekly. bathfarmersmarket.co.uk
Old-school charm comes via the martini and dessert trolleys
3 bakeries to visit Landrace Bakery Working with Landrace Milling in southern Somerset, where specialty grains are grown and milled, this bakery consistently delivers interesting buns and breads. Try the cinnamon bun or a vanilla cornetto. @landracebakery Taylor’s Bagels Breakfast bagels stuffed with sausage, bacon, hash browns, eggs, cheese, you name it. Available in four locations and served with excellent coffee. @taylors.bagels
Bertinet Bakery The OG of Bath bakeries, Bertinet is where to come for pastries. Think white chocolate, raspberry and almond croissants, pistachio and dark chocolate babka or a plain croissant for coffee dunking. @bertinetbakery_bath
HOW TO DO IT Take the train to Bath Spa to explore this walkable city.
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HOLIDAYS
Follow the Mekong – Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam 15 days Take a colourful journey of a lifetime through Southeast Asia’s verdant lands, experiencing unforgettable must-see highlights
from £3,279pp*
Departures October 2025 to November 2027
Highlights and inclusions:
This extraordinary tour begins amid the excitement, noise and kaleidoscopic wonder of the Thai capital, Bangkok. After the chance to see the River Kwai, you’ll journey into Cambodia, to explore the Khmer citadel of Angkor Thom, discover the vast serenity of Angkor Wat, and the palaces and museums of the Cambodian capital, Phnom Penh. A scenic boat journey through the Mekong Delta brings you to Ho Chi Minh City – formerly and famously Saigon – a fitting finale to this wonderful tour of Southeast Asia.
● Twelve nights at four-star accommodation in Bangkok
(three nights), Battambang (one), Siem Reap (three), Phnom Penh (one), Chau Doc (one), Can Tho (one) and Ho Chi Minh City (two) ● Explore Bangkok’s Buddhas, palaces and monuments ● A trip to Ho Chi Minh City (formerly known as Saigon) ● A visit to the floating markets at Damnoen Saduak and Cai Rang ● Journey along the Mekong River by fast passenger boat ● Cruise across Tonlé Sap – Southeast Asia’s ‘Great Lake’ ● Two full days at Siem Reap, including a visit to the temples at Angkor Wat ● Return flights to Bangkok (returning from Ho Chi Minh City) ● Comfortable, air-conditioned coach and boat travel, and transfers ● Fully escorted by a friendly and experienced tour manager
TO REQUEST A BROCHURE OR TO BOOK Call 0333 344 1461 quoting ‘GFM ’ OR VISIT newmarketholidays.co.uk/gfm TERMS & CONDITIONS *This holiday is organised and operated by Newmarket Holidays Ltd. ABTOT 5509. ATOL protected 2325. ABTA V7812. Standard phone charges apply. Prices correct at time of going to press. Single supplements apply. Newmarket Holidays reserves the right to cancel, change or amend any tour.
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KHAO SOI Chiang Mai’s signature dish: egg noodles swimming in a rich, coconut-based curry broth topped with slowcooked chicken or beef, crispy noodles and a squeeze of lime. Khao Soi Khun Yai’s is known for its deep, smoky flavour.
SAI OUA This coarse grilled sausage is a northern Thai essential, made with minced pork, lemongrass, lime leaves, galangal and fiery chilli. Slightly tangy, try it sliced as a snack at Warorot Market, or grilled whole at Tong Tem Toh.
NAM PRIK ONG A chunky relish that combines minced pork, fermented soybean paste, garlic, tomato and dried chilli. Served with crunchy veg and sticky rice, you’ll spot it at Huen Phen or among the array of dips for your roast bird at SP Chicken.
CRISPY PORK BELLY Known locally as moo krob, this lunchtime favourite is all about the contrast: melting layers of juicy pork under a blisteringly crisp skin. Try it slow-roasted in a clay oven at Neng’s Claypot Pork with rice and a rich pork bone broth.
what to eat in
SIMON LONG, MICHAEL RHEAULT / MOMENT / GETTY
Words KEITH KENDRICK | Photographs ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES PLUS,
Chiang Mai
5 KHAO NIAW MAMUANG Mango sticky rice is popular across Thailand, but Chiang Mai’s cooler climate brings a special fragrance to its Nam Dok Mai mangoes. Try Mango Tango near the night bazaar or Mae Varee Fruit Shop for a sweet end to a market ramble.
This north Thai region has become a holiday hotspot with a vibrant foodie scene encompassing many influences
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KHAO KHA MOO Braised pork leg on rice isn’t unique to Chiang Mai, but it has a cult following thanks to the city’s ‘cowgirl hat lady’ at Chang Phuak night market. Her tender pork is served over rice with pickled mustard greens and a soft-boiled egg.
WATER BUFFALO LARB Larb is a staple across Thailand, but Chiang Mai’s version is more savoury than sour and uses water buffalo for a bold, meaty character. Blood, bile or offal may also be added for depth. Adventurous eaters should head to Larb Ton Khao.
ROTI GLUAY A Thai-Muslim favourite found at night stalls across the city, these crisp-fried roti are filled with banana and drizzled with condensed milk. Watch the dough get flipped and spun at Rotee Pa Day, near Tha Phae Gate.
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THREE OF THE BEST
affordable London hotels Want to visit the capital for less? Opt for small, smart rooms with good food and speedy travel to the city’s hotspots words NATALIE HARDWICK
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This smartly refurbished, seven-storey Victorian pub on Brick Lane is ideally located for exploring the vibrant food and culture of East London. It’s housed in an old brewery — the 15 hotel rooms upstairs were lodgings for workers. There’s a buzzy European bar-type atmosphere and the accommodation is chic, with handwoven blankets, curated book selections and exposed brickwork that reflects the history of the building.
Downstairs, small plates are served for evening dining, including dishes like venison terrine and local charcuterie, and you’ll find a contemporary wine list with skin-contact and chilled reds alongside a range of European bottles. An excellent continental breakfast is included in the reasonable nightly rate – help yourself to sourdough, yogurt and granola pots, and fresh pastries. For warm days, there’s outdoor seating for watching the bustle, and a guestonly roof terrace for tranquility overlooking the city. Whitechapel Gallery is a few steps away, as is Spitalfields Market. Brick Lane and its surroundings are home to fantastic food and drink, including the 24-hour bagel bakeries (the salt beef is a must-try) and Pride of Spitalfields pub, food markets and excellent coffee. Cost: Rooms from £160 a night including breakfast. thebuxton.co.uk
ORIETTA GASPARI/E+, LAURIE NOBLE/STONE/GETTY
For street food: The Buxton, Brick Lane Photographs ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, TOLGA TEZCAN/ISTOCK UNRELEASED,
A
stay in the capital doesn’t have to break the bank, especially if you avoid the main tourist hotspots. All three of the areas we’ve focused on here afford a different glimpse of London life – after all, it’s a city that’s home to a huge number of different cultures and an eclectic mix of modern and historical attractions. London’s public transport system – especially the tube – will take you wherever you want to go quickly and easily, but you can also walk between a lot of the main sights in the city centre.
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For a central escape: Hoxton, Holborn Just a couple of minutes from Holborn, on the edge of Covent Garden and near the Thames, this cool, modern hotel is ideally placed in the centre of the city. There are 220 comfortably furnished bedrooms with an industrial edge – a nod to the building’s history as a telephone exchange. Bold artwork is supplied by local students and there’s a handy area guide in each room. Choose between four room sizes, starting with Shoebox (the clue’s in the name), up to the largest – Biggy. With the exception of Shoebox, all are dog- friendly. You’ll find a mini fridge along with tea and coffee-
making facilities, and if you fancy wine or beer in your room, head to the front desk where you can buy bottles and snacks at supermarket prices. A light breakfast bag can be delivered to your door for £5, but for something more substantial, head down to the on-site restaurant, Rondo. Treat yourself to a range of offerings from a cinnamon bun to a full English, served with Tamworth sausage and bacon, Fenton eggs, black pudding and beans. There are cold-pressed green juices and juice shots as well to wake you up, or a selection of coffees, teas and hot or iced drinks, including the ever-trendy matcha latte. Cost: Rooms from £209 per night. thehoxton.com
For cosy comfort: The Pilgrm, Paddington No, that’s not a spelling error — just another quirk of this modern yet offbeat Victorian 73-bedroom hotel. A stone’s throw from Paddington station, The Pilgrm puts you withing striking distance of Hyde Park, Oxford Street and Notting Hill, as well as being well served by public transport. Rooms, though on the small side, are very well appointed and reasonably priced. Book the tiny (but very comfortable) bunk rooms if you’re on a budget, or on a one-parent, one-child getaway with a need for a TV-free zone. The decor is pared back and stylish, with slate-coloured walls, white sash windows, enamelled basins and beds clad in
Egyptian linen. The floors are reclaimed 200-year-old parquet but there’s a chic, contemporary feel despite all the retro fittings. If you’re not a morning person, you’re in luck – breakfast is served from 7am all the way to 3pm in the first-floor lounge, which makes this a popular brunch venue for Londoners. On the menu, there’s a Pilgrm cooked breakfast (with house-baked beans) or a vegan version of smashed avocado, butternut squash and hummus. Pan con tomate comes with fried eggs, and if you’re craving something sweet, there are sticky toffee pancakes. Come the evening, this is where the bar opens with cocktails and an entire vermouth menu. Cost: Rooms from £119 per night. thepilgrm.com
SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 135
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Get the best from our recipes We test them thoroughly to ensure they work for you Read the recipe before starting. Basic storecupboard ingredients, like salt, aren’t included in the ingredients list. Use standard measuring spoons for accuracy, especially for things like spices, yeast and salt. Where possible, we use humanely reared and produced British meats, poultry and eggs, and sustainably sourced seafood. To avoid waste, we suggest how to use any leftovers you may have from our recipes. Eggs carrying the British Lion mark guarantee that all hens are vaccinated against salmonella. We try to avoid using plastic. You’ll find instructions to wrap or cover, but we won’t specify what to use unless it is vital to the recipe.
Helping you to eat well Our BANT-registered nutritionist analyses our recipes on a per-serving basis, not including optional serving suggestions. You can compare these amounts with the Reference Intake (RI), the official recommended amount an adult should consume daily: Energy 2,000 kcals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Sugar 90g, Salt 6g (RIs for total fat, saturates, sugar and salt are the maximum daily amounts). Healthy recipes are checked to ensure they have a low amount of saturated fat, sugar and salt per 100g, equivalent to green on a traffic-light label. On a per serving basis, Good Food require the saturated fat to be 5g or less, salt 1.5g or less and sugar, 15g or less per serving.
Low-fat recipes in Good Food are low per 100g, or 12g or less per serving. Low-calorie recipes have 500 calories or less per main, or 150 calories or less for a dessert. We also include portions of fruit and/or veg in a serving, and highlight recipes that supply a third of the daily requirements of calcium, iron, folate and vitamin C, and a good source of fibre and omega-3. Balanced recipes contribute to your five-a-day, include starchy carbohydrate, lean protein and dairy, or plant-based alternatives. These recipes also use unsaturated oils in small amounts, and all components of the meal are included in the analysis – only seasonings are excluded as ‘to serve’. Saturated fats, sugar and salt are medium per 100g, or amber on a traffic-light label.
How we label our recipes Vegetarian (V) or vegan recipes are clearly labelled, but be sure to check pack ingredients. ❄) Can be frozen for up to three Freezing (❄ months unless otherwise stated. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot. Recipes for advertisement features are checked by our cookery team but not tested by them. Our gluten-free recipes are free from gluten, but this may exclude serving suggestions. For more information, visit coeliac.org.uk. We are unable to answer individual medical or nutritional queries.
Good Food (ISSN No: 0957-588X) is published monthly by Immediate Media Company, London UK, and is distributed in the USA by ePG, 18 Central Blvd, S Hackensack NJ 07606. Periodicals postage paid at So Hackensack NJ. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Good Food, c/o 18 Central Blvd, S Hackensack NJ 07606
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SEPTEMBER 2025 goodfood.com 137
cake tin
A cake to celebrate Rosh Hashanah Welcome in the Jewish new year with a bake combining apples and honey recipe VICTORIA PREVER photograph HANNAH TAYLOR-EDDINGTON
Apple, honey & cinnamon crumble loaf cake This simple loaf is a delicious change from Jewish honey cake, the traditional treat for Rosh Hashanah (Jewish new year, which falls on 22-24 September). The loaf is packed with key festival flavours of apples and honey, and topped with a crunchy crumble. It’s dairy-free (or pareve) so it can be enjoyed after a meat-based meal. Feel free to use butter in the crumble if this isn’t an issue. MAKES 12 slices PREP 20 mins plus cooling COOK 1 hr 10 mins EASY V
1 To make the crumble, combine the sugar, flour, oats, cinnamon and 1 /2 tsp salt in a small bowl. Add the coconut oil or spread, and rub the mixture together using your fingers until you have a rough crumble. (If the oil is in liquid form, the mixture may resemble a paste.) Chill the crumble in the freezer until needed. 2 Line a 900g loaf tin with baking parchment and heat the oven to
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180C/160C fan/gas 4. Combine the flour, baking powder, cinnamon and a large pinch of salt in a medium bowl, and set aside. 3 Put the sugar, honey, oil, vanilla and eggs in a second bowl, then beat until combined. Pour the wet mix into the dry and stir just until well combined – it will be quite thick. Fold in the apples and pecans, then scrape the batter into the tin. Sprinkle over the crumble (if it was more of a paste, you should be able
138 goodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2025
to crumble it into lumps after it has chilled). Bake for 1 hr-1 hr 10 mins, or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean and the surface feels springy in the centre when pressed lightly. 4 Leave to cool completely in the tin on a wire rack before slicing. Will keep in airtight container in a cool, dark place for up to three days. PER SERVING 335 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 4g • carbs 42g • sugars 25g • fibre 2g • protein 4g • salt 0.39g
Shoot director FREDDIE STEWART | Food stylist ROSIE REYNOLDS | Stylist LUIS PERAL
225g plain flour 1 ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp ground cinnamon 200g golden caster sugar 50g honey 120ml sunflower oil 1 tsp vanilla extract 2 medium eggs, beaten 2 medium apples (about 225g), peeled, cored and cut into 1cm pieces 50g pecans, roughly chopped For the crumble topping 30g golden caster sugar 30g plain flour 15g rolled oats ½ tsp ground cinnamon 30g coconut oil or dairy-free spread
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