Early Ayutthaya ( 1351 – 1500 )
During the early Ayutthaya period, men predominantly wore a sanub plao, or a wrapped lower garment, while the upper torso was left bare or very lightly draped with a piece of cloth. Garments of the time was simple, practical, and made of basic cotton or silk.
During the late Ayutthaya period, men's attires became much more sumptuous. They still did wear the sanub plao, but fabrics were finer and usually patterned. The upper part of the body was better covered, using either a sabai-style cloth or even a fitted garment in formal situations. Greater status was reflected in accessories and decorative textiles, as the kingdom's wealth and cultural sophistication improved.
is a simple lower-body garment made from a rectangular cloth wrapped straight around the waist and secured by tucking. It typically reaches the knees and does not pass between the legs, giving it a loose, comfortable shape suitable for daily activities and the tropical climate. Commonly seen in the early Ayutthaya period, it was usually made from cotton or basic silk and reflected a practical, modest style before more structured garments like the chong kraben became widespread.
Raj pattern refer to the later traditional Thai formal wear influenced by royal and court dress. They typically include a fitted, collarless or Mandarin-style jacket paired with Chong Kraben or tailored trousers. The style is neat, structured, and elegant, designed for official or ceremonial use, reflecting increased Western influence during the late Ayutthaya to early Rattanakosin transition.
Yang Noi is a traditional men’s Thai shirt dating back to at least the Ayutthaya era. It features long sleeves, a standing collar, and a front placket with seven buttons. The design tends to be fitted around the waist, while the lower parts of the hem overlap. Historically, it was worn by civil servants or officials, and in modern reconstructions, it's used in traditional Thai costume.
Yerabab was a formal upper garment made from yerabab cloth, a luxurious textile woven with gold thread. Rather than being a common daily item, it appeared in royal and high-status wardrobes, used for ceremonies and court events. Its importance came from the richness of the fabric, making it a symbol of prestige in later Ayutthaya and early Rattanakosin clothing traditions.
Ayutthaya men typically wore accessories that reflected status, wealth, and court hierarchy. Common items included gold jewelry, such as necklaces, armlets, bracelets, and finger rings, often crafted with elaborate patterns. High-ranking men sometimes wore beaded or gold belts to secure their chong kraben. Hair ornaments or pins appeared among nobles who kept their hair in traditional topknots. Men at court also used decorative cloth sashes draped across the shoulder or tied at the waist during formal events. Additionally, ear ornaments, especially small gold earplugs or earrings, were widely used among elites. These accessories functioned as both adornment and symbols of rank within the Ayutthaya social order.
