DOROTHYPERKINS.COM
CONTENTS 100 Editor’s Letter 8 Fashion Today, the ability to read the lines article 12 Nowhere to be Seen editorial 18 Time travel with: Cristina Celestino interview 32 Modern Sinuosity editorial 36 Stop furs in fashion article 50 Butter Scotch Beige cover story 54 FW19 Must Have article 66 White Retouch editorial 72 Innovations in fashion article 82 Metal editorial 88 Technology in beauty article 96 Shine Bright Like... editorial 100 Accessories trends FW19 article 108 Give Me Shelter editorial 114 Exhibitions not to be missed article 125 Timeless editorial 126 @Paperfashion: the fashion illustrator Katie Rodgers interview 136 Electric Barbarella editorial 146 Celine's new menswear article 160 Let me Down Easy editorial 164 Dolomiti's Paradise is called Lefay Resort & spa article 176 Soul Mates editorial 180
THREE COVERS look for your favourite in stores Photography Oliver Beckmann c/o MN-creative Style Elke Dostal c/o Nina Klein Model Polina Sova c/o The Hive management Makeup, Hair style Sarah Rabel c/o Nina Klein
EDITOR’S LETTER 36
P
assword: update. With the many fast technological changes and the mountain of possible innovations in any field, we try to stay "up to date" even on the thousand options that we now have to be really more "futuristic". New materials to make non-polluting fabrics, elimination of real furs from clothing production and many other realities that can finally be part of us and the new fashion world. We try to learn from nature's rules to create. Let's make a journey into the future of fashion, of design with Cristina Celestino, of the illustration with Katie Rodgers from @paperfashion and of a spectacular new resort in the Dolomites, perfectly integrated with the environment. Editor-in-chief Facebook: @marta.forgione Instagram: @martaforgione
Marta Forgione
DOROTHYPERKINS.COM
Editor’s letter PRESIDENT, CHIEF EDITOR Marta Forgione martaforgioneph@gmail.com Raimondo Scintu, 78 street- 00173 Rome (Italy) CONTRIBUTORS FOR THIS ISSUE: LAYOUT Marta Forgione Laura Bobak WRITERS Giulia Greco Ludovica Mucci Federica Caiazzo Marta Forgione PHOTOGRAPHERS Xavi Prat, Domenico Petralia, Oliver Beckmann, Elizabeth Gibson, Julio Barcena, Johannes Graf, Krzysztof Zabski, Detlef Schneider, Mag Juchnik, Stefano Sciuto, Edda Petursdottir & Lotte Thor AGENCIES INVOLVED Blare Management, Timotej Letonja, Elite models Milano, Passepartout4u, MN-creative, Nina Klein, The Hive management, Premier models, Trend model management, Munich models, Rebel models, Mango models, Kathrin Hohberg, M4 models management, Phoenix Agentur, JS AGENCY.KR ADVERTISING adv.latest@gmail.com Rome Italy 2019 | p.iva 15126391000 | ROC registration n. 32682 Bi-monthly publication by LATEST srls unipersonale in February, April, June, August, October. Printed by Severn print, UK | for Italy by Facciotti s.n.c Distributed by Pineapple media LTD, UK price on website latestmagazine.net - print €15 - digital €4.5 Cover price: IT €15 UK £10
DEBENHAMS.COM
Editor’s letter
Among all communications channels a brand can choose from nowadays, runway is still the best way to communicate values to the public. Maybe because runway is the natural habitat of fashion, even if today clothes and accessories are shown just about anywhere - Instagram being the most quoted of all. And maybe because runway has something difficult to explain and hard to recreate online - the magic of being there, physically, and the possibility to give to your public a complete sensorial experience. Or again, the illusion to be far from the mere purchase and the elevation, in this last sense, of garments in something closer to works of art, the spectator being invited to take pleasure from. Runway is a story. Whatever it is the reason, the illusory universe specifically created to show the collection brings an added value, which brands use to take advantage from for their business. Latest collections from past seasons are not different. On the contrary they have been more significant than ever.
FASHION TODAY: THE ABILITY TO READ
THE LINES Words Giulia Greco - up to page 16 Here and opposite: Louis Vuitton man SS2020 ph. Filippo Fior & Alessandro Viero from gorunway.com /courtesy of Vogue
p.12
Environmental issue is one of the most important in the fashion industry (and everywhere else too, finally!), as much as it’s impossible to avoid it and every brand is called to take part to the general change of the production system. Even who is not interested at all in sustainability will eventually take a position which can be one only, according to common sense but also to not disappoint the public opinion. Consumers, especially the younger and more educated ones, ask for more: clothes are no more enough, they want to have ethic, meanings and aims. This is the only way through which clothes can acquire special values, long lasting in time. Once Franca Sozzani said that “it must be aesthetic but with a meaning. Otherwise you get bored also of the most beautiful things” and added “it’s never enough, if there is no value behind a product”. These words have always been true: they are ever more valuable today, when the survival of our planet depends (also) on our purchasing habits. Menswear fashion shows and ready-to-wear collections inspired us last months, because they really were meaningful. Bright, innovative and deep, collections were beautiful on the aesthetic level and they were inspiring about new tends we are so looking forward to try. But they were so beautiful also because of their inner dialogues, able to make us reflect.
It is not by chance that two of the most important brands worldwide, Louis Vuitton and Fendi, have been inspired by the same topic for their menswear collections Spring Summer 2020: gardening. Silvia Venturini Fendi uses her childhood memories to recreate the spirit of the show, the love and the passion she developed during time growing up in the country side. Virgil Abloh starts from the future, thanks to his exceptional sensibility, which allows him to look ahead, always ahead, in what is going to be. Abloh, in this sense, has been little wiser than Fendi indeed, putting inside his show diversity as an additional meaning. Wild flowers that complete each look are the visible transliteration of diversity, which asks to be embraced and respected. We are all the same despite our differences and we all grow up from the same soil. Starting from two opposite points then, Fendi and Louis Vuitton reach the same conclusion: if we live in an iper connected world, the only connection we should try to (re)create is the one with nature. Against the virtual and the frenetic, the utility chic collection by Fendi invites us to slow down and enjoy the products of nature to feel part of this world and to take care of it. This is the final real message of the collection: gardening doesn’t mean only deep down in nature and take pleasure from it - according to Luca Guadagnino, special guest of Fendi’s menswear fashion shows and reference point, artistically speaking, of the Maison for some years now. Gardening means to shape nature, leading it while preserving its essence. Which is exactly what we should pursue as human beings. There is, for that very reason, a delicate and light approach in both collections. Pastel colours at Louis Vuitton, delicious and full, and the green and sand scales ad Fendi, nearly tactile. Fabrics are basic and natural and mix fresh flowers and ethereal organza. Two sensational collections, one same purpose.
Nowhere to be
Seen
“We hide what we have most precious but also we hide what we are ashamed of. We hide so that nobody can discover our secrets. We hide them because we don’t want them to be discovered and because we like to drap a veil of secrecy around what will be ours only forever. We hide from ourselves because some things are better not to be seen. This is valid for everything inhuman still surround us. That we force ourselves not to look at, focusing instead on the shiny surface. We keep some things far from our reality, as much as to be somewhere not to be seen.”
Photography, Creative Direction Xavi Prat Production Timotej Letonja Style Mariana Moura & Sergio Serrano Model Noelle c/o Blare Management Makeup, Hair Style Andrea Trenado Photography Assistant Fabrizio Colque
Here and Back Cover: Total Look Moncler x Simone Rocha
TIME-TRAVEL WITH CRISTINA CELESTINO “Technology? It’s just the means, not the final goal” words Federica Caiazzo
Cristina Celestino: acknowledged as one of the smartest minds of contemporary design, her creativity is constantly spurred by curiosity. Indeed, being curious is what she defines as “the positive side” of any project she works on: it helps her look beyond difficulties and raises her expectations when passing from designs to prototypes. Curiosity also makes her feel free to explore past and future in their continuous coexistence between old and new. It is what makes her works the highest artistic expression embodying the combination of retro and avantgarde styles. p.32
Cristina Celestino - portrait in a Milanese entrance hall: Fabrizio Polla Mattiot - Ateliermistral Opening page: Coffee table design Cristina Celestino & Flaminia lounge chair Furniture collection for Fendi and Fendi Casa - photo credits Luxury Living
Cristina, what is your ideal fusion of future and past? Past and present always coexist in the creative process leading to the search for future or something new. I really like this quote from Nanda Vigo: “Future exists in the past and they’re both part of everything”. There is always more than one reference in my projects, and all of them are reinterpreted instead of being just used as referring points. They often belong to different worlds: it might be the history of architecture, jewellery, nature. Their synthesis always passes through an abstract phase in which geometries, patterns, volumes and traditional typologies are redesigned (this is what a designer really does). I aim at getting to a final result coming from a fusion or hybridization that sums up the whole research, sources the references and
conveys a contemporary message. One of your recent projects is The Pink Closet, Palazzo Avino’s boutique in the Amalfi Coast, which has been called “a hymn to beauty”. What’s your idea of beauty? Beauty involves time: you need time to create it and make it understandable. It also implies a lot of care: you need to take care of yourself as well as the others, who will enjoy a pleasure which is not an end in itself. Evolution: does this word have a positive meaning? Or a negative one? I am very optimistic about the future and I don’t look nostalgically at the past. Evolution brings with itself the adaptation to contemporaneity, which is incredibly positive.
Modern Sinuosity Sinuosity Art Director, Photography Domenico Petralia | Style Angelina Lepper Model Lila Braghero c/o Elite models Milano | Makeup Rachid Tahar Hair Style Valerio Sestito | Director Assistant Simone Carinetti Style assistant Alevtina Peunkova | Photography assistant Vito Calamia Casting director Stella Ferro | Production Passepartout4u Post-production Virgil Hritcu | Special thanks to ISIS Facchinetti
Art Director, Photography Domenico Petralia | Style Angelina Lepper | Model Lila Braghero c/o Elite models Milano | Makeup Rachid Tahar | Hair Style Valerio Sestito | Director Assistant Simone Carinetti | Style assistant Alevtina Peunkova | Photography assistant Vito Calamia Casting director Stella Ferro | Production Passepartout4u | Post-production Virgil Hritcu Special thanks to ISIS Facchinetti
Editor’s letter A NEW FURWORLD FREE
Gucci FW19/20 Photo Filippo Fior & Armando Grillo/ Gorunway.com | courtesy of Vogue
Trends come and go and often come back again after some times, awakening the interest of the youngest, that eventually turn to grandparents’ closets in order to find some cool pieces to re-style in a modern key. Thrift shopping and vintage shops are a huge trend among Millennials, who also love very much fur coats and details. Symbol of wealth and power, fur made is come back after a decline moment, also thanks to Vogue US’ director Anna Wintour, and it is still perceived as a luxury garment, even though it goes down to the street and it is usually matched with jeans and sneakers. Mix and match is today the best way to style, we know that. Not only to be worn in winter as a protection for freezing temperatures - need we’ve lost times ago anyways - fur is a very appreciated ornament, which jump through seasons and become wearable in summer as well, as a edging for shoes and bags. Fashion today is a creative activity as never before, which is completely untied to climatic, social or conventional demands. If it’s true modern trendsetters love fur, it is also very true they finally have more ethical issues to take account of than the generation before. Modern consumers require to their favorite brands to be as clear and transparent as they can, to be sustainable and respectful - of workers and animals in the same way. Sustainability is luckily not a passing trend but it is going to mark fashion production deeply in the following years p.50
from now. Eco-friendly mentality is slowly affecting the entire society and it has already made huge progresses thanks to younger generations which are the game-changers. The question is then obvious: how does the love for fur get along with the ecological issues and demands of consumers? Because, we all know it, fur is not eco-friendly at all. The real one is not eco-friendly for very simple reasons, but neither the fake ones are. Animals’ living conditions inside fur-farms is well know by the public opinion: foxes, ermines, minks and so on don’t have to live in good condition to develop a good fur, which does not suffer from malnutrition or bad hygienic conditions and requires specific way of kill. Farms want the highest profit at the minimum investment. Also, fur’s production is one of the most polluting sector ever, because of production gas and very dangerous solutions used to dye and treat the fur. There’s little to say about it, and fur’s fans can’t simply enumerate the positive sides of using animal products, pretending this is an acceptable solution. Real fur usually last longer and consumers care about them because of their very high price; also, once they are discarded they are easily biodegradable. This is all true but, as we said before, the level of pollution created by fur industry is remarkable high.
Needless to say, of course, that killing animals for dresses without any other motivation should not really exist as a hypothesis, now. Talking about production, fake furs are still very polluting as well and it is really hard to see clear. The debate is still open. Despite this situation the list of brand that went fur-free increased a lot in the last two decades. Stella McCartney is the first brand that started an “inner” fight in the fashion system against the use of fur, back in the 2001. Prada is the last one that took part to the Fur Free Alliance, the international group that safeguard animals right worldwide in the fashion industry. The Italian brand declared last May to go fur-free starting from the womenswear spring summer 2020 collection, arising a huge interest and opening a new scenario, where Fendi is the only Italian luxury group still using fur in its production.
Fendi is born in 1925 as a luxury fur house and fur has always been its principle material, so much so the brand renamed its haute couture shows haute fourrure. Last year it made a step back, going back to the usual haute couture denomination and giving up on some exotic leathers. A necessary measure, which is still not enough. According to its tradition, it is not surprise Fendi’s designers and craftsman are the ones most willing to find new solutions and alternative roads. The two last haute couture collections by the Roman maison have been particularly interesting, taking to the runways clothes and accessories some of them ornate with fur which was not real but seemed so, to the sight and to the touch both, because of the incredibly high craftsman knowledge employed in the making.
up: Prada, down:Stella McCartneycourtesy of Vogue all fw2019 ph Armando Grillo/ Gorunway.com
BUTTER scotch BEIGE COVER STORY Photography Oliver Beckmann c/o MN-creative Style Elke Dostal c/o Nina Klein Model Polina Sova c/o The Hive management Hair Style, Makeup Sarah Rabel c/o Nina Klein Casting by Nicholas Forbes Watsonz Digital assistant Arne Skade
“Sustainability is nowadays very fashionable, but it is not just a trend. To take care of the environment is beautiful, both ethically speaking and aesthetically. Wearing a fur meant be part of a certain social class - ages ago. Today, we don’t need real furs anymore to be up to date. On the contrary. Light coats, innovative fabrics respectful of nature: true luxury is sustainable. Everything else belongs to a past we don’t want to be part anymore. We want to wear the future, not the past, because some things must be left behind. This is the only way to be free to go on.”
Top Zimmermann seen at mytheresa.com
must have words Giulia Greco
If the solar year starts in January, the “spiritual” year of everyone of us starts in September. We come back to the usual routine - work, school, university - and everything starts all over again. As usual in September, we also made a list of good resolutions, to start the year in the best way. The first, most important resolution is “buy less and buy better”. We don’t need hundred new garments every new season to be up with trends. It’s way better to buy selected items which can last longer. And here you have the best trend for the following season fall winter 2019/2020, plus some trend forecasts for spring summer. In fashion we must be up to date! We had a look at the Resort collections, at the magnificent dresses shown during the Haute Couture season, and we make the point during the last fashion weeks around the world. We collected all the informations needed for smart purchases and if you follow us, success is guaranteed. During this autumn we’ll experiment a lot with colours, both pastel tones and shiny ones. Indeed, for a very effective look we should mix and match them together, in order to create funny contrasts. Power suit, one of the most powerful trend in the last year, is still a hot thing, but it is loosing its strict features, and the co-ord game is spreading all over. Gender fluidity is every day more important and feminine and masculine have blurring borders: we are free to chose who we want to be and then put together the perfect outfit for the day. Bows and shiny fabrics, but also structured jackets and shirts. The main influence is from the 80s and its taste for exaggeration and amusement. With colours, shapes and materials. And with an eye for subculture, especially punk: we really want to grab some of its sovversive spirit and make it our own. Trends fall 2019
LIVIN’ IN THE JUNGLE
1.
Technic jackets, huge pockets and natural colours are the main characteristics of the everyday look to face the urban jungle we live in. Inspiration comes from Indiana Jones and African safari, where clothes must be first of all comfortable. There is a general come back to what’s natural and wild and there is a new fascination for the (re) discover of the deep relationship between man and the surrounding landscape. We match a pair of safari-style shorts with a fluffy cardigan, to wear as a top on the skin. Knee high socks and heeled loafers make the ensemble very chic.
2.
3.
Zimmermann linen shorts €460 seen at mytheresa.com
1. Isabel Marant FW19/20 Runway show | Ph: Daneiel Oberrauch / gorunway.com 2. Gucci socks €110 seen at farfetch.com 3. The Row - cashmere cardigan €920 seen at mytheresa.com
Marni pumps €750 seen at farfetch.com
p.67
“It is good to know that, in this technological world we live in, beauty still survives. It is even better to know that human creations only own the true beauty, the incomparable one that can be recognize instinctively by the human eye. Some things can’t be made by technologies, no matter how sophisticated they are. Human sensibility can’t be reproduced, neither be negotiate.”
White
retouch Photography Elizabeth Gibson Style Paulina Gzik Model Carmen Bruendler c/o Premier Models Makeup Lica Fensome Hair style Alex Price
Total look Mother Of Pearl
THE FUTURE IS HERE:
FASHION &
TECHNOLOGY words Giulia Greco
courteys of pw-ourworld.nl
courtesy of Instagram @johwska
Fifteen years ago one of the most popular videogame between teenagers was The Sims. The game consists in controlling one or more avatars and making them “live their life”. Buy a house and buy the forniture, get a job and go to the gym twice a week. Spending some times for personal hobbies is recommended. Today The Sims is less popular than it was, but who used to play and to love it one decade ago is now adult and forms one of the most important target for fashion: Millennials. Beyond all the cultural and social dynamics The Sims underlines and makes us aware of, inside our contemporary society (have a career and a “normal” family among others), what is interesting to notice in the videogame is the deep commitment users have for their personal avatar, to whom they buy clothes, accessories and various tools to improve their - fake - life. The degree of involvement videogames like The Sims are able to create is well known by everybody. After The Sims we had Fornite and after that social media and filters, which allow users to change their physical features and publish the results online. Brands have learned the lesson quickly and many of them are now developing new online platforms and new functionalities, like Gucci’s new app, which is meant to create a virtual image through which users can “try” the Ace sneakers, or like Napapijri that uses augmented reality instead of real samples to send to clients, reducing in this way waste in the production phase. p.83
“Shiny and sharp metal meets the human skin, soft and voluptuous. This is the tactile meeting between opposite surfaces, touching and reflecting one the other. Opposites attract each other. The alchemy is unique: artificial creations made by men exalt natural beauty. ”
Metal Production Julio Barcena Studio Photography Julio Bárcena Style V Olya Model Tanya Kozina c/o Trend model management Makeup, Hair Style Jorge Balzaretti Photo Assitant Oscar Latorre Post Production Mercedes Haussman Location The Catwalk Studio
Beauty products for this fall? The answer is TECHNOLOGICAL
words Giulia Greco
LATEST BEAUTY
On the verge of 2020 beauty is all about technology and body treatments use the best and most advantaged knowledges to gift you with a sensational beauty 2.0, different from everythingl else we were used to so far.èItultimais not mondo della cosmetica by chance that the protagonista most powerfulditrend right mente un cambianow is the mento C-beauty,molto where Clontano stands for China. dall’essere The country is one of the leader in the beauty field and beauty products’ export keeps on rising. The C-beauty’s real power is technology indeed: starting with cream that change according to the seasonal temperature, going through smart mirrors that analyse the skin (yes, they exist! Just check HiMirror online) and interactive devices that cleanse deeply, this is just to name a few of the latest innovations that are now so popular all around the world. Technological beauty is especially appreciated by the young generation, which is born with smartphone used to turn to artificial intelligence in order to solve any problem. Beauty is not exception and technology can really brings sensational changes in our everyday routine, giving us the perfect ingredient to solve problems hard to treat with traditional cosmetics. Technology and self care meet not only in the newest beauty products, but they also are reason of worrying. The continuous exposition to screen (computer’s, tablet’s or smartphone’s one) can cause a premature aging, together with many other issues. Technology is a double-edged sword and we should be careful, protecting ourselves when needed. We can easily find advices and gadgets to protect your eyes and your skin from the exposition to the so-called “blue light” (the radiation spectrum of screens which has dangerous consequences on our body). There are also some very special cream, as such the Selfie COSMETICS line by Kylie Jenner with Apple. Kyle herself is enough to catch the attention but the products from the beauty line are really impressive and they have as goal to protect the face skin from the smartphone’s screen, for a figure always ready for a selfie!
Foto by Daria Shevtsova
Smart Mirror - HiMirror
p.114 p.59 p.97 p.133
“When beauty comes from the inside it shines with its own light and needs only sunlight to be enhanced. Like diamonds, which are the mist precious stones and the most pure as well. Their beauty depends on fluorescence, that is the light that shines when a diamond is exposed to ultraviolet ryes. The sparkle, commonly, which is what makes them unique.�
Shine bright like a Photography Johannes Graf
Style Andrea Tzelepides Model Nastya Brik c/o Munich Models Makeup, Hair Style Alex Lexa Using Chanel and MAC cosmetics
FEELING UNIQUE IS NOT SO DIFFICULT words Giulia Greco
ACCESSORIES: THE FALL TRENDS
Photos from left: Givenchy, Valentino, Versace (here) by Armando Grillo c/o Gorunway.com | courtesy of Vogue
Autumn has finally arrived and has brought along the usual need of renovation. Of the wardrobe first of all, that asks to be renewed and made suitable for the upcoming season, according to trends. There’s no need of shopping spree though, don’t worry. Just following our (wise) advices you can use garments you already own and make them fresher and up-to-date thank to accessories only. Even the smallest detail is helpful, like earrings or a foulard, and gives the twist to the whole outfit. This fall-winter is extremely full of novelties and trends, than it’s been for years. For what concern accessories, we have just plenty of choices. Some trends come from the past spring-summer and reaffirm their importance also for the cold season: we are not tired yet of the bucket hat for instance, and of hair accessories, like scrunchies, hairbands and colourful clips. But also the choker, minimalist or maximalist, has a part in nearly every fashion show, intended not to leave the stage for now. p.109
GIVE ME Shelter Photography Detlef Schneider c/o Kathrin Hohberg Style Adelaida Cue Bär c/o Nina Klein Model Mallory Veith c/o M4 Models Hair style, Makeup Melanie SchÜne c/o Nina Klein Post Production Ionut Matsche
TIMELESS Photography Krzysztof Zabski Style Milena Bekalarska Model Aly Turska c/o Rebel Models Makeup, Hair Style Monika Kropat Post Production Alina Celinska-Drozd / acd retouch
Dress Muses | Waterboots Hunter | Hat Asos | Opening: Shirt Cukier Puder Vintage Shop | Scarf H&M | Hat Asos
“I find ballerinas incredible. How they appear weightless, beautiful, fragile almost, yet at the same time they are incredibly strong athletes who go through so much to become this graceful being for the few moments they glide across a stage."
All images in this article ©Katie Rodgers | courtesy of Paper Fashion | Opposite page image by ph. Noah Kalina
p.136
Paper Fashion: an exclusive interview with the Artist Katie Rodgers words Ludovica Mucci
That of Katie Rodgers is mind always in movement, constantly looking for new inspirations for the future. An artist with a delicate soul, Katie has been living in the Big Apple for years, and despite the frenetic city life, she has managed to create her own small space in which to paint and find inspiration in the tranquility of her small garden. This month, Latest Magazine had the opportunity to interview her and be inspired by her ideas on art and design and by the many collaborations and initiatives she has worked on. Driven by an intense passion for fashion and its endless possibilities of interpretation through painting, Katie has made of her blog Paper Fashion a real job, arriving to collaborate with some great names of the world of luxury, including Cartier and EstÊe Lauder. In this interview, we will understand what led her to the creation of Paper Fashion. In her interesting way of narrating, Katie tells us about herself, speaking about her passion for fashion and nature, which has always accompanied her since her childhood in Georgia, and then talking about her most recent projects, like creating a line of art supplies for painting, her interest in new technological innovations and a mission that has always been the engine of her art: being able to inspire people and encourage them to create, regardless of what their passion is, being aware that giving a form to our creative ideas is always good.
p.105 p.63
Electric BARBARELLA Analog Photography Mag Juchnik Style Ewa Michalik Model Agata Wojtasik c/o Mango Models Makeup, Hair Style Koleta Gabrysiak
“I took you home And dressed you up in polyester Princess of my dreams Emotionless and cold as ice All of the things I like The way you look The way you move The sounds you’re making In Ultrachrome, latex, and steel” Duran Duran - Eletric Barbarella
Blouse, trousers, dress Papillon Atelier | Earrings Klara Kostrzewska
CELINE'S debut in menswear and what it tells us about our future words Giulia Greco
all shots by Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com | courtesy of Vogue
Last year has been about changing at Maison Celine, Parisian brand own by LVMH. Phoebe Philo left the scene to focus on more private things and Hedi Slimane wreak havoc and a huge amount of indignation among the fashion system. Slimane is himself everywhere he goes, now we know it pretty well. He changed the aestethic and the rules of the game. He also changed the name of the brand itself, which lost the accent and the French allure and, with no surprise at all, took inspirations from the English subcultures of the last two decades of the XX century. Mini dresses, exaggerated sleeves and puffed shoulders. Black is the main colour and polka dots are everywhere. Models are mainly very skinny and Caucasian. “At Celine, past has not the same importance as at Dior or Saint Laurent: we can get rid of it easily� he said to Le Figaro, earlier this February, giving an end to criticism and complains.
Generation Z is the focus of Celine’s new marketing, which is extremely fresh and new.
To which he gave no ear in any case, after his first show in Paris. When they asked the “old Cèline” back, he simply replied with his second runway, the Fall 2019 ready-to-wear, inspired by the very beginning of the brand, even before Philo’s regency. The collection had been possible after a very detailed archives’ research. This is the real Cèline, Slimane did not say but would have really loved to. Irony was subtle and mockery obvious. The collection enchanted the audience and now the number of Slimane’s followers is increasing everyday more. Straight to its way, Celine debuted with the very first menswear collection in its history, the Fall 2019. Again suppositions and speculations did not lack, because Slimane’s reputation precedes him. We should not forget that it’s thank to him menswear
radically changed at the beginning of 2000 when he worked for Dior Homme: his new suits were very slim and perfectly tailored, the style was unique (as much as Karl Lagerfeld lost forty kilos to wear one of his creation). The hype was then very high, and everyone of us wondered if Celine’s debut in menswear would have turn men clothing once again. The answer is definitely yes. The collection was amazing. Three pieces tight and sparkly, shiny fabrics and impeccable coats. There was plenty of black sunglasses and Slimane took back to the stage a very important accessory in menswear history, for long time forgotten: the thin tie. Models, as we’ve already said, were all very young and rebel. Slimane’s cliché but also due to the target of consumers Celine was addressing to. Generation Z is the focus of Celine’s new p.161 p.153 p.155
LET ME DOWN Easy Photography Edda Petursdottir & Lotte Thor Style Alex Mcfadyen Model Daniela Dominique c/o M4 Models Management Makeup, Hair Style Dirk NeuhĂśfer c/o Phoenix Agentur
What does it mean to be truly fearless for the GenZ? For them (and we hope others will follow their example in the future) gender fluidity is a totally normal condition. The author Kate Bornstein explains: "The ability to become freely and knowingly one or more of an infinite number of genres for any time and for any number of changes." The freedom to not be identified. And to feel even only for a day more male, or more female. Freedom therefore for a man to wear a skirt one day, and a suit the next day in a natural way, as it would be for a woman to wear a tuxedo. The future is free and without fears and preconceptions. It is impossible to tell when the change will be rooted in society, but the right path that has been traced is already visible.�
Dress Our Legacy Shoes Aeyde Bag Saskia Diez
LATEST PARADISE
all images courtesy of dolomiti.lefayresorts.com
LEFAY RESORT & SPA - Dolomiti
A place where nature, luxury and unspoiled beauty harmoniously co-exist: the second luxury resort in the Lefay Group, Lefay Resort & SPA Dolomiti opens on the 1 st of August and is situated within a UNESCO World Heritage site. The new Resort stands in the ski area of Madonna di Campiglio, in Pinzolo, the largest town in the Rendena Valley. The ski area is, in fact, the biggest in Trentino, with 150 km of slopes, four snowboard parks and a single pass valid for the entire ski area; the area hosts international competition such as the Alpine Ski World Cup.
The spa is a temple where you regenerate your senses and your soul and runs over four levels: the wellness area for families with a heated indoor and an outdoor swimming pool and the family sauna; the World of Water and Fire reserved for adults, featuring the indoor training pool, a large whirlpool and nine saunas; the Fitness Centre open 24 hours a day, offering a large gym with a lot of natural light and with
TechnogymÂŽ equipment; studios overlooking the garden for rebalancing activities complete the area. The extensive sauna area has been designed according to the Lefay SPA Method principles, that combine Classical Chinese Medicine with Western scientific research. An energy and therapeutic path leads from the Centre to five different stations with symbolism to evoke the rhythm of life and rhythm of life and its various
stages. With different levels of temperature and humidity and dedicated phyto- and aromatherapies, the circuits are customised according to the energy levels of the guests. Then, there’s an entire floor dedicated to treatments: the Signature treatments include energy massages, aesthetic rituals and several
treatments using local scents of the forest and alpine flowers. The menu also includes noninvasive aesthetic medicine, a medical section, Ă la carte SPA and a proposal dedicated to couples, with rituals in the exclusive Private SPAs inspired by the alpine atmosphere and the natural elements of the mountains. p.177
Seoul Mates “Yes I was going somewhere A single random meeting With your eyes and I am beaten And now I'm going nowhere I know I'm going nowhere With all the voices in my head The clever words I never said Of all the things to happen In a girl panic That's driving naked through my mind It's a crush panic She's got me atomized� Duran Duran - Girl Panic
Photography Stefano Sciuto Style Lee GyeongWon Models Reagan Angelo c/o JS AGENCY.KR and Ione King c/o JS AGENCY.KR Hair Style Park InAe Makeup Gu SungEun
NEST.CO.UK
ADVERTISE with us CONTACTS Raimondo Scintu, street 78/A6 - 00173 Rome (Italy) +39 06 - 86603422 adv.latest@gmail.com
@latestmagazine
@thelatestmagazine
thelatestmagazine
latestmagazine.net