Austin Monthly May/June 2025

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64

Reflections of Light IndierockerBen Kwellerprocesses thetragiclossofhis 16-year-oldson on a newalbum, Cover theMirrors

Editor’s Letter 22

Scout

LizFox Roseberry’sviral earrings areturning heads 25

Find your ASMR fixwiththis crunchy, cracklingslime 26

Getlit with this roundupofgreat readsfromlocal authors 28

Feast

Sterrato makesclassic Italian cuisinewithAsian flair 31

Beat theheatwitha cool cocktail at these five newbarsintown 32

Inside Austin’s firstbar devotedto women’ssports 34

Beat

Newregulationcould stiflethe buddingcannabisindustry 37

This nonprofitplans to useold city busestohelplocal musicians 40 25 yearsofhomerunsand hot dogs with RoundRockExpress 42

74

May/June 2025 |Vol.33|No. 3

General Manager RandiStevenson

Editor-in-Chief Madeline Hollern

Creative Director Mara Esquivel

EDITORIAL

Executive Editor BryanC.Parker

Contributing Writers

Darcie Duttweiler,HamiltonJones,LaurelMiller, Ruvani de Silva, Sophia Talley

ART

Contributing Photographers

Kaylee Greenlee,BillSallans,ChadWadsworth

Contributing Illustrators

PaigeRenée Berry, StephanieElizabeth

DIGITAL

DigitalManager AbigailStewart

ADVERTISING

ChiefRevenue Officer Kate Weber

Senior MarketingDirector Sara Bryant

Account Director Dana Horner

Senior Account Executives Teddy Ivanova, Jenn Tully

Account Executive KielyWhelan

EVENTS

Events Director Lauren Sposetta

CIRCULATION

Audience DevelopmentDirector TomNork

CONTACTUS

PO Box2171, SanAntonio,TX78297-2127, 512-263-9133

Advertisinginquiries:advertising@austinmonthly.com

Letterstothe Editor:info@austinmonthly.com

Subscriptions, Renewals,and AddressChanges:Austin Monthly, PO Box217,San Antonio, TX 78297-2127 512-387-6234,subscriptions@austinmonthly.com or online at austinmonthly.com/subscribe.

WEBSITEAND SOCIAL MEDIA austinmonthly.com

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Editor’sLetter

Taking theTime

“YOUSHOULDleavefortheairportthreehoursearly,”mydad toldmymomandmeaswepreparedforanimpromptuwinter triptoNewYorkCity.Ilaughed,brushingitoffasaclassicfather trope.Ilive15minutesawayandweweren’tjet-settingtoParis whywouldweneedsuchanearlyarrival?ButasMomandIgot to Austin-Bergstrom InternationalAirport that December morningand drovepasta line of TSAPre-Check passengers snakingout thefront door,I hada sinkingfeeling:Dad had beenright,andnowweweregoingtomissourflight.

At first, we struggledto figure outwhere to even go,asanxious travelersundulated throughout theticketing area and employeespointed us to theend of alinethatseemedmiles fromthesecuritycheckpoint.Thankfully,therewasamethod to themadness,and we managedtomakeittoour gate with enough time.But if onething wasclear,it’sthatburgeoning Austinhadfaroutgrownitsairport

Whiledoing research forthisissue,I chattedwithAUS PublicInformationOfficedivisionmanagerKimberlyHey,who notedthatABIAwas designed to serve15million passengers ayearbut accommodated more than 21 million in 2024.Fortunately,thefacilityisundergoingamulti-yearexpansionthat willinclude20-plusnewgates,moreparkingspots,anArrivals andDeparturesHall,and13,000squarefeetofadditionalfloor space—sohelpisontheway

Thesummermonthsbeckonustohittheroadorhopona plane, whichiswhy we chronicled acomprehensive guideto travel in ourlatestcover feature, “AwayWeGo!”(page 44). In thearticle,wehighlightstatewidespotsfromviralamusement ridesandvineyardstoareaswhereyoucansurfthewaves,slide downsanddunes,ordiscoverhiddengrottos.Asanupsideto allthegrowthinthecapitalcity,ourdirectflightoptionshave also,well, skyrocketed, so we featuresomeofthe 80 available nonstopflightsinthearticleaswell(page49).

Whiletemperaturesriseand wanderlust settlesin, Ihope youtakethe time to plan agetaway with your lovedonesthis summer—not only foranescape, butanopportunity to bond andmakememories.Afterall,it’stheseindeliblejourneysthat weenduprememberingforyearstocome

MadelineHollern Editor-in-Chief madeline@austinmonthly.com @madelinehollern @madelinehollern

Earand Now

Nevermindsimplestuds or basic hoops:LizFoxRoseberryisrewritingtherulesonearringdesignwith hermix-and-match “jackets.” Inspired by artistAlexanderCalder’s wire mobile sculptureexhibit in NewYork, theformergraphic designer traded hercomputerfor pliers,whichsheusestocraftdanglingpiecesthatcan pair with any stud.PlayfulSaturnorbsshowcase herout-of-this-world spirit while hersignature matchstick earrings bringthe metaphorical heat.The versatileanodizedaluminumpiecesallfunctionaswearableart—and conversation starters.“Ilovethe possibilities with mismatching,” FoxRoseberry says.“People arealways asking,‘What’s onyourother ear?’” Thelocal designer hasgarneredmorethanhalfa million followersonTikTokwithhercandid commentaryandwhimsicaldance posts.ActressLilyCollinshaseven sportedher designson Emily in Paris.“That wassuper wild andso fun,”shesays.“It’slikehearingyour songontheradioforthefirsttime!” Shop hereponymous lineatlizfox roseberry.com. DarcieDuttweiler

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AtMaravilla @The Domain,you’llencounter captivatingneighbors, stylishambiance, chef-crafted cuisineand atantalizing arrayof creativeactivitiesand clubstoembrace.Ifthe danceoflifehas ahub,thisisit. Visit MaravillaAtTheDomain.com andcall (512)575-3839 fora personal tour. RETIREMENTLIVING, REDEFINED.

Austin. Meet the K-Team!

Mark Sweeny,DDS Founder Cosmetic &General Dentist

2020, 2021, 2022

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2018, 2020, 2022, 2023

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Atfirstglance,SterratoItalianSpecialtieshasallthetrappingsofaclassicItalianjoint—wood-firedpizzas,scratchmadepastas,choppedsalads.Butlookalittlecloser,andyou’llfindtheSouthAustinfoodtruckweavestogetheran artful fusion of Korean,Japanese, andMediterranean ingredients. Chef Thomas Malz (CarpentersHall, Bangers) describesthemenuasautobiographical,akintopaintingalandscapewhereflavorsformthecolorpalette.Asweetand-smokyShiroDashiCaesarpopswithbacon-esquekatsuobushiandumamihondashi,whileshoyulemonaioli makesthe Fritto Mistosingand Korean rice cakesreplace traditionalpenne in theTtokala Vodka. To carefully crafthispizzadough,MalzblendsItaliansemolinawithTexasryeflourlocallysourcedfromHomesteadGristmill, oneofmanysmall-batchproducersthattheeaterysupports.“Sterrato”meansdirtorunpavedroad,andMalzcreditshisco-founderBarthoSaayman’sruralupbringingswiththeirdevotiontotheland.“Sterratoisthesourcematerial—therootofthejourney—offthebeatenpathwheremostfarmsare,”hesays.Followthefoodtruck,locatedon theStillAustinWhiskeyCo.patio,atinstagram.com/sterratoatx.—RuvanideSilva

WetHotAustin Summer

From popularnew NYCtransplants to posh speakeasies, here’s wheretograb acocktailthisseason.

BY MADELINE HOLLERN

POWDER ROOM

THESCOOP:

Cleverly tucked away behind Manny’s downtown,thisdazzlingspeakeasy features plushy furniture, agorgeousgold-ceiled bar, andacosmopolitanverve that feelslikean artdecoMiami hotspot.

WHAT TO DRINK:

Siponasmoky mezcal libation like TheDogs of War(featuringclarifiedmango andSorel hibiscus)oropt fora classicOld-Fashioned made tableside.

PROTIP:

Relish thechancetounplugasyou enjoy unforgettable live musicperformancesand people watching.The baractuallyseals your phonewhile you’re there. (Trust us, this is liberating.)

DETAILS: 301W.Fifth St., loboshospitality.com/venues/ powderroomatx

MOTHER’S RUIN

THESCOOP:

AbelovedNYC transplant,thisEastSide newcomer with alarge wraparound bar feelslikeamix of Cheers and CoyoteUgly Here,the ultra-friendly staff will make you an amazingcraft cocktail—thenshake and rattle thehanging barlamps as they pour a shot into your mouth.

WHAT TO DRINK:

Cool off with aboozy Frozen Slushy or put some hair on your chestwiththe habaneroand-tequila-basedSpace Billboard.

PROTIP:

Don’tmissalate-nightorder of itsfamed OldBay wafflefries with caramelizedonion dip: Thebar’s kitchenstays open until1:30 a.m. (Practically unheardofinAustin!)

DETAILS:

1401 E. SixthSt., Bldg.A,Ste.204 mothersruinaustin.com

PAPERCUT

THESCOOP:

Forthose whosavor thefiner things in life,thisEastSidelounge pairsculture with cocktails: The bardoubles as an artgallery featuringartists like Andrew Smenos andNathanBurgess

WHAT TO DRINK:

In addition to arotatingbeverage menu basedonthe current exhibition,the spacealsohas a signaturecocktaillistincluding theWhy Wait?, made with Yokka Koji awamorialong with chocolateand peanutbutter.

PROTIP:

Look forJasmine Zelaya’s powerful muralonthe bar’sexteriorwall, which waspainted during SXSW as acelebration of reproductive freedom.

DETAILS:

908E.Fifth St Ste. 107, papercut.bar

HEYDEYSOCIAL CLUB

THESCOOP:

Perchedonthe eighth floor of the HyattCentric hotel, this breezy rooftopbar boasts breathtaking viewsofthe downtown skyline andCongressAvenue.

WHAT TO DRINK:

WhileHeydeyhas plenty of refreshing tequila-based libations, thespace also offers an impressive zero-proof menu includingaLyre’sAmalfi Spritz

PROTIP:

Grab asunsetcocktailhere before ashowatParamount Theatre, locatednextdoor.

DETAILS: 721CongressAve heydeysocialclub.com

FlowerShop

THE FLOWER SHOP

THESCOOP:

Groovy,baby! This NewYorkCity bartransportsguests into a ’70s-inspiredsetting repletewith floralbanquettes, kitschyart anda leopardpooltable

WHAT TO DRINK:

Beat theheatwithTommy’s PricklyPearMargarita or aCold Brew Martini.

PROTIP:

Come hungry—the three-story East Austin conceptmakes a mean maitakemushroomrigatoni andkatsu chicken sandwich

DETAILS:

1300 E. SeventhSt., theflowershopnyc.com/ the-flower-shop-austin

ALeagueofTheirOwn

By highlighting women’sathletics,thisnew sports pubischangingthe game BYSOPHIA

TALLEY

DEBRAHALLUMWAS

in sixth gradewhenshe realized girls’ sports were treateddifferently. Shewasabasketballguardwho couldalsothrow amean discusandshotput—butonly duringherPEclass.Hertiny hometownofMarietta,Oklahoma(pop.3,000)prioritized boys’sports, so shenever got to wear aschooluniform or rideabustoacompetition

NowanAustiniteformoretha 20 years, Hallum andher partner, MarleneduPlessis,arereadytoshift thenarrative.The pair’s highly anticipatedconcept,1972Pub,opened this spring on TheDrag, bringing thefirstwomen’ssportsbartoTexas They arecontinuingthe trendthat originatedinPortlandin2022with theSportsBra,the firstbar in the countrycenteredaroundwomen’s athletics. Namedfor theyearTitle IX wassignedintolaw—which ap-

pliedgenderequitytowomen’s sportsatcollegesanduniversities— theirnew pubhas become the14th ofitskindintheU.S.

Manylandlordsrefusedtoinka dealwith1972,thinkingtheconcept wouldn’tsucceed.“Everythingstartedtofallintoplace,excepttofinda space,”duPlessis says.“We looked at many differentplaces, andthey wouldsay, Yes,nocomment.We’ll talkaboutit.”Butafterfinallyfinding aspace across thestreetfromthe UTcampusanddebutingthisspring, 1972Pubhashadanoverwhelming response:around500customerson openingdayandlinesoutthedoor throughMarch Madness. (Inwhat felt likea divine sign from theuniverse,UT’swomen’sbasketballteam madeittotheFinalFourthisseason.)

Insidethebar,SportsIllustrated coversadornthewalls,payinghomagetohistory’s greatest female athletes.Withmorethana dozen pieces of sports memorabilia, the pubdisplaysequipment from local teamsandhaswomenwhoplayfor Austin’sfootballandultimatefrisbee teamssigntheWallofFame

Violet lighting complementspurpleseats, tables,andmerchandise,andsignaturecocktails namedaftericonicfemaleathleteslikethe“Mia” andthe“Simone”pairwellwithmenuitemssuch as elotehushpuppies or Crackerjackice cream sundaes. Allare welcome(includingmen), and familiescanbringtheirchildrenuntil10p.m. Withtheirgroundbreakingconcept,theownershopetonot only defy theoddsbut help evatewomen’s sports in turn.Aspartof this commitment,10% of 1972’s profits willbedonatedtolocaleffortssupportingwomen’s andyouth sports.That way,thenextgenerationofsixth-grade girlswillknowthattheycanbeathletes,too.1972pub.com

BuddingHeads

As Texashempbusinessesclash with lawmakers, new restrictions couldcrush agrowing industry that brings millions of dollarstothe localeconomy

BYBRYANC.PARKER

SINCEGRADUATINGFROM high school in Abilenein2001, AaronOwens hasspent the better part of twodecades cowboyinginWest Texas. He went from training horses as aranch hand to helminghis owncattleoperation specializinginCorriente,a smallbreed of bull used in rodeoropingevents. Then,in2017, Owens decidedtoinvestinTexas’burgeoninghempindustry.Withinafewyears,he’dsoldallhiscattle, movedtoDrippingSprings,and formed anew business,TejasTonic.

Although Texaswouldn’tlegalizeindustrial hempbroadlyuntiltwoyearslater,theentrepreneurhadbeenintouchwithfriendsworkingin thecannabisindustryinColoradoand could smelltheopportunitythatwouldsoonbebudding in hishomestate.In2019, HouseBill1325authorizedtheproductionandretailsaleofindustrialhempproducts,solongastheycontainless than 0.3% tetrahydrocannabinol (THC).

“Wegrewour firstcropinDrippingSprings in2020,anditwasanepicsuccess,”saysOwens, whoisalsoafoundingboardmemberoftheTexas Hemp Coalition. “Wehad amassive partywith people drivingfromDallas, Houston, andSan Antoniotohelpusput plants in thegroundfor the firsttime—it wasa cultural milestone.”

Today,herunsoneofthelargestorganichemp farmsintheLoneStarState,locatedjustoutside ofAustin,wherehegrowsandprocessescannabis to manufacturebothbeverages andgummies It’s aperfectly legalbusiness, andit’sjustone smallpartofanindustrythatgenerated $4.3 billion in revenuelastyearwithanestimated totaleconomicimpactover$10 billion.But all of that couldbeinjeopardyifsomestate lawmakersget theirway

An ardent factionofTexas Republicans— spearheadedbyLt. Gov. DanPatrick andSen CharlesPerry—havemovedforanall-outbanof THCproductsinthe currentlegislative session with Senate Bill 3. That proposed law, which wouldstill allowproductswithother chemical compoundsfound in hemp such as CBDand CBG, hasalready passed theSenateand is currentlybeing considered by theHouse. Ultimately,oneofthesebillswouldhavetoreceive approval from both chambers of thelegislature tobecomelaw.Patrickhasthreatenedtoforcea specialsessionifheavyrestrictionsaren’tpassed before thecurrent period ends in earlyJune.

HempindustryworkerslikeOwensandsome legislatorshaveconcernsaboutthebroadnature oftheSenatebill.“Myhopeisthatwecanhavea more reasonable conversation than what we’re hearingintheSenaterightnow,”DemocraticRep. JamesTalaricosays.“IwouldimaginemostTexans wouldnotbeinfavorofatotalban.”

Talarico is right: Arecentpollfromthe UniversityofHouston foundthat62% of Texans (including71%ofDemocratsand53%ofRepublicans)support legalizing marijuanafor recreationalpurposesbypeople21and older. “Dan Patrickiscertainlyinatinyminorityhereinthe statewho want to seeitbanned,”Talaricosays.

TheDemocraticlegislatorfromRoundRock isn’talone in histhinking. HisRepublican colleagueKen King filedHouse Bill 28,which servesasaresponsetothemorerestrictiveSenate billbutwouldstilldrasticallycurtailthegrowing industry.HB28calls forthe complete banofall edibles,smokables,andsyntheticcannabinoids alongwiththenewguidelinesforrigoroustesting of thechemicalpotency of products

Much is at stakein theconflictover industrial hemp

$268 million Taxrevenue generated by thehempindustry.

$32,000

Nationwide average revenuederived from one acre of floral hemp

53,300 Thenumberofjobs createdbythe hemp industry in Texas.

40,201

Jobs that couldbelostif THCisbanned entirely

100+

Differentcannabinoids foundwithinthe cannabisplant

RockandRoll

Anew nonprofit planstoturnold buses into functionalspacesfor working musiciansinAustin.

BYBRYAN C.PARKER

BANDSANDBUSEShave astoried connection, butAustiniteMichaelWinningham’slatest endeavorcouldtaketherelationshipto awhole new level. Winningham hasbeen playinginlocalgroupslikeTheGlassFamily,Palo Duro,andGoldBeachforovertwodecades,butbyday, heworksasacontractoranddeveloperofaffordablehousingwithhiscompany,Industry.Thosetwoworldscollided when he started thinking abouthow to useinsightsfrom hishousing work to benefitall theartists facing Austin’s rising cost ofliving. “I wasreallytryingto figure outhow to create spacesfor musiciansand incorporatetheminto ourprojects,”hesays.

Aftercomingupwiththe idea to turn oldcitybuses into functional resources likecrash pads, greenrooms, andrehearsal spaces,the entrepreneur formed anew nonprofit,Junkyard,topursuetheconcept.Accordingto Winningham,citybusesareattractivetotransformthanks to LEDlightingsystems,efficientair andheat, andextremelysecurecompression-powered doors. “I’llhavea weatherproofed shellthatI cangut,place on properties inAustin,andmakethemfreeandaccessibletomusicians,” heexplains

Junkyard is workingtoacquire vehicles througha varietyofsources,includingcitieslikeAustinandBastrop aswellasprivatecompaniesthataresheddingoldinventory.Theusedbusesrangefrom$8,000toover$40,000, butthatcostcan be mitigatedthrough sponsors and partnerships.Oncepurchased,Winningham’steamwill buildwallsinsidetheshellofthebusandaddfoaminsulation,soundproofing material,and other finish-outs, resultinginabout350squarefeetofflexiblespace.

Winninghamevenhasaplanforvettingthemusicians whowill usethese vesselsfreeofcharge: Junkyard will workwithestablishedentitiesthatservethemusicindustry—such as HAAM,SIMSFoundation, andthe Texas MusicOffice—toregisterparticipantswhocansignupto usea “junkpod”through an app. Thinkofthemasmusician-specificworksharespacesavailablefreeofcharge. The finalstepofthe processissecuringlocations for thebuses.Luckily,Winningham’sworkinthedevelopment worldprovidesinsightsintounderutilized urbanareas Plus,junkpod installationsdon’t need to be permanent, andtheycanoccupysmallerportionsoflargerlots.Ifthe landownerdecidestousethepropertyforsomethingelse, thebus canalwaysrollontothe next stop on thetour. Ultimately,anythingthatmakes Austin more affordable forartistsisaroutewecanallgetonboardwith.

TALENT SHOW

Readyfor abit of baseball trivia?Which team claims 1. Jose Altuve 2. MaxScherzer, 3. Yu Darvish, 4. RogerClemens,and 5. JacobDeGromasformermembers?Forgetthe Rangers, Astros,or Mets—everyoneonthatlistonceplayedfor theRound Rock Express. At varioustimes,the team hasbeenanaffiliatefor theAstrosand Rangers, both of whichhaverecentlywon WorldSeries. In otherwords,a lotoftop talent hascomethrough RoundRock.

ALTEREGOS

TheExpress hasleftthe station—please welcomethe RoundRockDonuts. Forafew gameseachyear, theExpress like to take thefieldunder an alias, complete with themed jerseysand ballcaps.The team hasalsorecentlyplayedasthe RoundRockBriskets, andtheir longstanding alternatemascot, theChupacabras,makes an appearance each year.Thisyear, theclubwillbecomethe Ryan Express34s in honorofthe pitcher’sjerseynumber.

COMICRELIEFPITCHER

Back in 2010,Billy Ray"Rojo"Johnson (aka actorWillFerrell sporting ahugefake mustache)tookthe moundatDellDiamond andcracked open abeerbeforetossing his first pitch. Afterbeing ejectedbythe umpire Rojo startedabrawl with theopposingteam by chunking hisglove at thebatterbefore finally beingchasedoff thefield.

Breaking down someeye-popping statsofaseasonwiththe Express.

1,372 1,372 1,372

LoadsofLaundry

With allthose grassand dirt stains,the organization uses abattery of high-powered industrial washingmachinestoget those uniforms cleanedquickly andefficiently.

10,800 NUMBERS

Baseballs

Even if aballgetsalittledirty or scuffed,a newone is used to make sure it’s clearlyvisible, resultinginanabundance of ballsdeployed each game.Umpires also introduceanew ball anytimeone is fouled outofplayorhit outofthe park as ahomerun—anunforgettable souvenir that moneyjustcan’t buy.

PROTIP

Don’tmisskey promotionalgiveaway nights commemoratingthismilestone season and honoring theteam’sHall-of-Fameowner: HawaiianshirtsemblazonedwithRyan’sface, alimited-edition bobblehead,and miniature replicas of Dell Diamondfeaturing an audio snippetofhis voice.

77,745 77,745 77,745

HotDogs

What’s more classicthana hotdog at theballpark? On Wednesdays at Dell Diamond, youcan chow down on this classicfarefor just $1—and that’s a pricethatevenCostcocan’t beat

BY MADELINE HOLLERN LAUREL MILLER

AWAY We We GO!

GREAT ADVENTURESFROMA TO Z

FROMCOW CUDDLING TO SURFINGTOSLIDING DOWN SAND DUNES, HERE AREDOZENSOFFUN WAYS TO GETOUT OF TOWN THIS SEASON.

SUMMER EDITION 2025

A A ARTSY

Curiouserand curiouser! Enterthe trippy,mind-bending worldofMeowWolfHouston,which opened itsdoors last Halloweeninthe FifthWard. Atreasuretrove of Easter eggs andhiddenportals,the interactivemuseumincludes theworkofmorethan60Texan artists. Don’tmissCowboix Hevvven, amysticalhonky-tonkwithinthe exhibitthat serves bitessuchasFrito Pieand friedbologna,and look for Houstonhomages like amural with awingedDJScrew (Restinpower.) meowwolf.com/visit/houston

Follow Yvette! @theaustintourist formoreadventures

Meet Reba!

Thelonghorn cuddling cow

CCUDDLING

Want to boostyourmood? Studiesshowthatinteracting with animalslowers bloodpressure, decreasescortisol, andelevateslevelsofserotonin and dopamine.Atfamily-ownedCalvary FarmsnearSan Antonio, youcan reap thebenefits in themostadorableway:snuggling with theirresidentrescues, includingcows, goats, alpacas, andminiature donkeys. Owners Mollyand JasonEittreimhavecreated akid-friendly, neurodivergent-inclusive refuge that also features a“sensorysuite”tohelpindividuals with autism control theirsensory inputand self-regulate. Guests canevensignuptocuddlewith aTexas longhorn namedReba. Holy cow! calvaryfarms.org

D D

DIRECT FLIGHTS

MAXIMIZE YOUR VACATION TIME BY FLYING NONSTOPFROMAUSTIN. No need to wastehours sittinginthe HoustonorDallasairportsona layover this summer:While thecapital city continuestogrow, so do ourdirect flight optionsout of Austin-Bergstrom InternationalAirport (AUS). As of March2025, theairport featured 80 nonstopdestinationswith248 departures,according to Public InformationOffice division managerKimberlyHey.Morethan21new nonstop flightshavelaunchedthisyear, includingnew destinations like Reno andMilwaukee.“In general, airlines will offer more direct flightsduringthe summer becausethat’swhenmostpeopleare travelingfor leisure,”Hey says.If youhavethe flexibility, sherecommendsbooking your travel formid-week: “Every dayisprettybusy, butTuesdaysand Wednesdays areour leastbusydays.” Here area fewinternational direct flightsavailable at AUS.

MEXICO CITY

NONSTOP FLIGHT: 2hours 30 minutes

AIRLINES: Aeromexico,Delta

WHAT TO DO: FeastyoureyesonspaceslikeCasa Azul (aka theFrida KahloMuseum) andthe most visitedmuseumin thecountry,the MuseoNacional de Antropología

VANCOUVER

NONSTOP FLIGHT: 4hours 40 minutes

AIRLINE: WestJet(launches May11)

WHAT TO DO: View theiconictotem pole collection at StanleyParkand take ascenicrideonthe Sea to SkyGondola

LONDON

NONSTOP FLIGHT: 9hours 25 minutes

AIRLINE: BritishAirways

WHAT TO DO: In addition to Buckingham Palace andthe London EyeFerrisWheel, checkout theinaugural SXSW London from June 2to7

AMSTERDAM

NONSTOP FLIGHT: 9hours 30 minutes

AIRLINES: Delta, KLM

WHAT TO DO: Take aboattourthrough the city’s famous canals andlearn aboutart historyatthe VanGogh Museum andRembrandt House.

PARIS

UnliketherealEiffelTower,Paris,Texas’65-footreplicaboasts aredcowboyhat.AvisittothistownneartheOklahomaborder callsforsomepâtisseriefromParisBakery,astrollaroundthe historic downtown,and perhaps, adetourtosee the“Jesusin CowboyBoots”memorialatEvergreenCemetery.

ATHENS

Otherstateshavetried to claimthe hamburgerastheir own, butcompellingresearchshows this East Texastownisthe beefysandwich’sbirthplace. Aman knownas“OldDave” is saidtohaveservedthefirstburgeratacafenearthecourthouse in thelate1880s before debuting it at the1904World’s Fair

STONEHENGE II

Skip the flight:A replicathat’s90percent theheightand 60percentthewidthoftheoriginalexistsinIngram.Made by thelateAlSheppardand hisneighborinthe ’90s,the sculpturesnowresideattheHillCountryArtsFoundation, alongwithtwo Easter Island moai reproductions.

DUBLIN

The self-proclaimed“IrishCapital of Texas” throws ahell of aSt. Patty’scelebration,but Dublin is also home to the world’soldestDrPepperbottlingplant,theRodeoHeritage Museum,and award-winningVeldhuizenCheese. Book a touratthelatterandstockuponfarmsteadcow’sandsheep’s milk cheeses.

Grab aprotein-packedsnack forthe road trip. StokeProvisionsOriginalBeefSnackSticks($22 fora10-pack)atstokeprovisions.com

Whetheryou’rehikingupEnchanted Rock or planning acamping trip to Colorado,thissturdybackpackwill protectyourbelongingsinstyle YETI27LRancheroBackpackin Olive($275)atyeti.com

Take asnoozeinthe airport, on theplane,or in thebackseatofthe car with this handypillow. KammokPuffinPillow ($4995)atkammok.com Shield your eyes at thepoolorduringanimpromptu sand volleyball game with thesestylish sunnies. ROKA SanRemoAirSunglassesinMatteBlackFrame-HC FusionMirrorLens($235)atroka.com

Fora totallytubular getaway, you don’tneed to head to thecoast Waco Surf’s unique surf lagoon simulatesthe real thingwith pneumatictechthatuses compressed airtomovethe water. “The cool thingabout apneumatic system is thevariability,” says co-owner Mike Schwaab. “Atthe push of abutton, we canchangeit from abig wave to asmall wave, from afastwavetoa rollywave.”For thosewho prefer more chillthan thrill,the park features oneofthe world’slongest lazy rivers,a nearly mile-longwaterwaythatmeanders fora full 45 minutes, plus slides anda cablepark. Butanyoneold enough to swim well canhandle thesurfexperience, Schwaab assures: “There arekidsthatcome outherethatare 6years oldthat surf better than Ido.”The full park is open May10through Sept.7,and surfing is availableMarch through mid-December wacosurf.com

ICONIC HOTELS

THEADOLPHUS

Dallas’ firstluxuryhotel was establishedbynoneother than Adolphus Busch, founder of Anheuser-Busch.Opened in 1912,the BeauxArts masterpiecehas been beloved by presidents andcelebrities alike. Butthere arealso purportedghosts, areal-deal Texaswateringhole(Rodeo Bar),and high teaatThe French Room,proving this grande dame hassomething foreveryone. adolphus.com

JJGRAND GALVEZ

Galveston’s“Queenofthe Gulf” opened in 1911 andhas withstood over acentury of hurricanes and ownershipchanges.The iconic pink SpanishColonialRevival hotelisthe only historic beachfront property on Texas’ Gulf Coast, anda 2022 remodel restored itsornateJazzAge interiorstoformerglory.The paranormal activity is also adraw; if that intriguesyou,explore the supernatural realmbyrequesting Room 501.grandgalvez.com

JEWELRY

It’s notcalledthe TurquoiseTrail for nothing. The50-mile routealong CentralNew Mexico’s Highway14 betweenTijeras andSanta Fe will thrill Native American jewelrybuffs andart lovers alike. Followinga visit to Cerrillos TurquoiseMining Museum,purchasethe namesake semi-preciousstone at tradingposts, galleries, andstudios en route before grabbing lunchatMadrid’s legendary Mine ShaftTavern andCantina.InSanta Fe, make apilgrimagetothe GeorgiaO’Keefe Museum andbookmarkAug.29: The date marksthe 101stannual burningof Zozobra,a communityculturalevent wheretheyset alight an enormous effigy in frontofa cheering crowd. santafe.org

GAGE HOTEL

At thenortherngateway to Big Bend is asleepytowncalled Marathon,where you’ll find this 98-year-oldpropertyrifewith OldWestartifacts,taxidermy, andoriginalarchitectural details like stampedtin ceilings.Relish gorgeously outfitted rooms around ahacienda-style courtyard, casitas, anda restored 1882 house. Afterhikingor lazing poolside,sip aRanch Wateratthe hotel’sWhite BuffaloBar.gagehotel.com

Want to make the little ones squeal with delight? Head to DFW to explore the new Peppa Pig Theme Park in North Richland Hills Opened this March, the wee amusement park features attractions like the Grandad Dog’s Pirate Boat Ride and Daddy Pig’s Roller Coaster, a perfect first coaster experience for kids The theme park also hosts live shows with Peppa and friends and has a splash pad to keep cool on those blazing hot summer days. peppapigthemepark .com/dallas-ft-worth

L L MOUNTAINS

LUXE

To stay in aBunkhouse Hotels property is to be dazzledbythe details. True to form,the Austin-based hospitalitycompany behind HotelSaint Ceciliaand HotelMagdalena went aboveand beyond with their firstHouston property, whichdebuted this past winter in theMuseumDistrict. At HotelSaint Augustine, slip into acustomkimonorobebeforeluxuriating on ItalianSferra linens or your ownprivate screened-inporch.Burledwalnutand marble accents, in-roomBluetooth speakers, sage greenbathrooms,and avinyl listeningroominthe lobbyare just afew of thehighlightsofthe Montrose property. bunkhousehotels.com/hotel-saint-augustine

There’sa pilgrimage that many Austinites make in thesummertime: If you can’tstand theheat, escape to Colorado.Onthe FrontRange,takeina RockiesgameatDenver’s CoorsField or hopaboardthe PikesPeakCog Railway in Colorado Springs. Foranoutdoor adventure, go whitewater raftingonthe Arkansas River,and catchone of theregion’smanyfests, from Bluegrass in Telluride(June 19-22) and Food &Wine in Aspen(June 20-22) to CrestedButte Wildflower Festival (July11-20). Lookingfor an iconic overnight? Enjoyhorseback riding at legendary107-year-old property TheBroadmoor in Colorado Springsorbrave astayat The StanleyHotel,the hauntedlodge in EstesParkthatinspiredStephen King to write TheShining. colorado.com

NNATURE

TheBurnham family haselevatedrelaxationtoan artformwiththeir dreamy two-story, one-bedroomcabin rental outsideofMarbleFalls.Situatedon200 bucolicacres, theHillCountry HammockHouse boasts modern decorwithan emphasis on naturalmaterials,a concrete shower bigenoughfor two, akingcanopybed,and abalcony frontedby12feetofsliding glassoverlooking awildflower-festooned meadow.Snoozeinthe two-person hammock, toasts’mores around the fire pit, and immerseyourselfinthe warm-weather soakingtub.The greatoutdoors, indeed instagram.com/ hillcountryhammockhouse

No need to suffer throughhighway gridlock fora briefgetaway.Bookanovernight stay with thebestviewofthe city at LorenHotel Austin.Ascendthe glasselevatorfor expansiveviews of Lady Bird Lake anddowntownatits stylishrooftop restaurant,Nido, andenjoy barsnackslikebluefintartare andoctopus carpaccioonthe breathtaking terrace. If you’re seekinga playfulstaycation, DownrightAustinHotel is just theplace to keep cool thanks to itsSwimClub, an aquaand-peony-accented feverdream billed as a“historic pool turned social club.” Featuringa barprogram designed by Travis Tober(Nickel City), thevenue is essentiallyanongoing pool partywithlivemusic andDJs.For thosewho want ahotel that doesn’tfeellikeone,headto FrameHotel -SoCo,which eschewsfront desksand utilitariandecor in favorofzen waterfeatures, privatelanais, andverdant gardenscanopiedbyHeritageOaks. thelorenhotels.com/austin;instagram com/downrightaustin;framehotel.com

“I’MJUSTASIMPLECOUNTRYGIRL”

PARTON

Sure,weall love Dolly, butHeather Sage takesher adorationa step further. Hertwo-bedroom,one-bath TexasFarmhouse–style rental at 8Sages in Gruene is aluxurious,1,200-square-foot paeantothe busty blonde singer.Dolly Cottagefeaturesvaulted ceilings,a plunge pool,and a fire pit, andit’sconveniently locatedacrossthe GuadalupeRiver from Gruene Hall.Grabaninner tube andheadtothe waterbefore exploringthe tiny town’s surprisingly lively nightlife. instagram.com/8sages_gruene

QUICKFLIGHT

Callingall millennials! If yougrewupwatching Total RequestLiveon MTV, youlikelyswooned over thesmooth vocals andslick dancemoves of theBackstreetBoys. Now, fans canrelivetheir late ’90s glorywitha direct flight from Austin to SinCity. This summer,the popquintet will quit playinggames with ourheartsduringselectdates from July 11 throughAug.17atthe city’s buzziest venue, TheSphere LasVegas. sphere.backstreetboys.com

Backstreet’s back, alright!

TERMINAL

ALOOKATALLTHEUPCOMINGCHANGESATAUSTIN-BERGSTROM

If youfeellikethe capitalcityhas outgrown itsairport,you’d be correct: “Our infrastructure is only designed to serve15million passengers,” says AUSPublicInformation Office division managerKimberlyHey.“In 2024,we served 21,762,904 arriving anddeparting travelers.”Thankfully, ABIA is undergoing amassive multi-year expansioncalledJourney with AUS. Soon,the airportwillreceive internationalarrivalsimprovements, anew outbound baggagehandlingsystem, and13,000squarefeetofadditional floorspace forsecurityscreening and passengerqueuing (tonamejusta fewofthe plannedupgrades).By2030orso, theairport will have anew ConcourseB andtunnelwithatleast 20 newgates,a Yellow Garage with 7,000spots (replacing thecurrent Red Garage), MidfieldTaxiways, andanArrivals andDeparturesHall. “It’snot just aboutaccommodating thenumber of rising passengers—it’salsoabout preparingfor thefutureand ensuring that Austin remainsa keyplayerin theglobaleconomy,” Heysays. In themeantime, theairport just welcomed Antone’s andHalfMoonEmpanadas, plus anew coffee robotinstallation. Nowthat’sAUS-some! austintexas.gov/AUSJourney

UU

UNDERGROUND

Discover what lies beneathatthistucked-away bedand breakfastnearFredericksburg.Located next to EnchantedRock, TroisEstatehas ahiddenhallway that leads to asecretslide,which ends up inside an unforgettablegrotto. Themagical underground cave features stalactiteshanging from theceiling andclimate-controlled waters whereyou canswimyear-round. Thegrottocan also be accessed viaahidden door in an oldchapelonthe property.Fuelyoursense of wonder—thencooloff as you floatinthe calmingoasis. troisestate.net/bed-and-breakfast

WINERIES W W

Getready to swirl, sniff,and siptoyourheart’s content: Fredericksburg is home to more than 75 vineyards, wineries, andtasting rooms. Featured in thetop 100ofthe World’sBest Vineyardslistthree yearsina row, William Chris hasled the missionfor Hill Countryproducers to create winesmadewith 100percent Texas-growngrapes. In addition to producingstellar vino, Becker Vineyards turnsintoa veritableProvenceinlate spring andearly summer with itsfragrantlavender fields Sparklingwinefanscan cool off with brut cuvéeand pinotnoir rosé at HeathSparklingWines,and families cantaketheir kiddos to sneaka peek of Blakethe rhinowhile they sip Chardonnay at Rhinory.For thosewho arefeelingsocial, Meierstone Vineyards hostseverythingfromstar-gazing partiesand Mother’s Daycelebrationstoestatedinners andDJ sessions.Cheers! williamchriswines.com;beckervineyards.com; heathsparkling.com;rhinory.com;meierstonevineyards.com

XTREME THRILLS

If you associate South Padre Island with calming beaches and icy cocktails, think again: The Texas Gulf Coast Island is also home to Gravity Park, which boasts one of the tallest reverse bungees in the world. Test your mettle as you strap into The Rocket, a small capsule for two that launches guests into the air at speeds of up to 70 mph Thrill seekers will also love the Skycoaster, a giant swing ride where they can pretend to be Superman while soaring through the air After braving these thrills, go ahead and reward yourself with that frozen drink gravitypark.squarespace.com

REFLECTIONS OF LIGHT

AF TER TH E TR AG IC LO SS OF HI S 16 -Y EA R- OL D SO N, IN DI E RO CK ER BE NK WE LLER NAVI GATE S EM OT IO NA L CU RR ENTS AN D SE AR CH ES FO R UN DE RS TA ND IN G ON AN EW AL BU M, COVERTHE MIRRORS.

an overcast dayinthe fall of 2024, BenKweller grabbedanacoustic guitarandcurledupinaplusharmchairinthe corner of hisDripping Springsstudiotowrite anew song Asalifelongmusicianwho’srecorded around adozen albums,Kweller haddonethiscountlesstimesbefore. Butthisinstancefeltdifferent,ashe contemplatedhowtotranslateinto musicall thegrief,confusion,and painhe’dexperiencedoverthepast yearandahalf.Peeringthroughhis tanglesofrussethair, he beganto strum, anda deluge of memories startedtoflow

“Crystalchild,doubleGemini/A millionsongsinhishead,”Kweller began. “Summersmile,a breezy laugh,longhairwavesinthewind/ Nothin’likebeingbyhisside,wish Icould seehim again/Oh,Dorian, wheredid yougo?”

Eighteen months earlier, on Feb.27,2023,Kwellerlivedthrough thewakingnightmarethateveryparentdreads. He andhis wife Liz’s16-year-old son, Dorian Zev, hadbeenhanging outata friend’s house allevening,and he wasuncharacteristically overduefor his9 p.m. arrivalhome. After checking an apponhis phone, Kwellersensed that somethingwas wrong: Thedot marking Dorian’s location hadbeenidlingominously fortoo long.HejumpedinLiz’s carand drove toward hisson as fast as he could, navigating thetwistingroads androlling terrainofthe Hill CountrywestofAustinwhere thefamily’s spacious ranchislocated

“There’s usuallya lotofdeeronthe road at night,”heremembers.“Butthere wasnothing around—itwas desolate.”

Kweller’sheart sank as thered-and-blue flashers of emergencyvehiclescameintoview. He wassuddenlytrapped inside an intrusive thoughttakingphysicalform. When acar accidentally edgedacrossthe center line of the narrow,two-laneroad, Dorian hadswerved to avoidit.Butalongtheshoulder,abrokenbranch— oneofsomanyfelledbya recent freeze—came

throughthe windshield andstruckhim in thehead, killing himinstantly.A youngwoman drivingonthe road behind Dorian’s SUVhad watchedthe sceneunfoldand pulled over to call forhelp. If it weren’tfor her, theKwellersmight never have knownexactly what happened

Dorianwasatorrentofideasandenthusiasm,a“friendto all,”ashis father puts it—alwayseager to meet someonenew andupforanyadventure.Amemberofthehighschooldrumline anda buddingmusicianwho’d just released hisfirst singleusinghismiddlename,“Zev,”asamoniker,Dorianwas scheduledtoplaya debutshowwithhis dadatSXSWinjust afewweeks.“MymiddlenameisLev,whichmeansheart,and hismiddlenameisZev,whichmeanswolf,”Kwellerexplains “Sotogether, we were theheart of thewolf.”

Dorian’s musicalawakening mirrored theage hisfather waswhenhebecameanovernightsensation.Pluckedoutof hisnativeGreenville,Texas,by majorlabel execs, Kwellerand hisbandRadishtookoff,drawingcomparisons to Nirvana andlandinghiminroomswith popstars such as Madonna when he wasjusta teenager

Above:Kwellerlounges in a chair wherehewrites music.Oppositepage: The songwriter sitsbeneath a portrait of his son, Dorian, in the family’s home

“T HI NG SS TA RT ED TO HA PP EN IN TH E

DA RK NE SS ,I NT HE AF TE RM AT HO F

LO SI NG HI M, TH AT WE RE LI TT LE

SP AR KL ES OF LI GH T. ”

ratherthanbeingconcernedwithyourownoutwardappearance

Thesetraditionstohonor thedeadare also meanttohelpthelivingbegintoheal.Whenyou’re consumedwithgrief,inthefaceofunfathomable loss,thisiswhatyoudo:calltherabbi,getoutthe Shivachairs, coverthe mirrors. Thesestepping stonesformapathwayacrossariverofsorrowto keepyoufrombeingcarriedawaybythecurrent.

Inthosetoughestdaysearlyon,moresparkles oflightemerged.Friendswerealifeline,showing upinwayslargeandsmallbutequallyvital.Continental Club ownerSteve Wertheimer andhis wife,Gabby,delivered mealstothe family ranch, andfansturnedupalloverthecountryasshows becamememorialcelebrationsoflifeforDorian.

“Weplayedhissong‘HowIAm,’whichisone ofmyfavoritetunes,”Kwellersays.“I’dbreakdown almosteverynightfromthat,justtalkingtohim andyellingathim.”

LongtimefriendandcollaboratorEdSheerancalledwithanoffertoopenforastintoftour datesthroughoutthesummer.Itwasanotheract ofkindness,andanopportunitythatgaveKweller achancetokeepworking withouthavingtobe thefocal pointevery night.

“Eveninyourown tragedies, youcan always find gratitude,”saysKweller,admitting that the remark oftencatches people off guard. “When youheara person lost theirkid,it’slike‘God, that’s so horrible.’And it is—” he says,pausing emphatically.“It’stheworstthing.Then,tohear thattheyhavegratitude?It’slike,‘Whatthef*ck is wrongwiththisperson?’”

ButKweller sawhis life moving forwardasa choice,one enabledbythe agency he’d come to

feel throughthese ritualsofhealing.“Icould be completely bitterandthink‘WhyamIsounlucky?Andf*cktheworld,f*ck God, f*ck allofit,’but that wouldbeprettymiserable,” he explains.“Or Ican tryto find thebeautythatI’vealwayshad a hunchexistedintheworld.”

JustlikeDorian,KwellerisadoubleGemini,meaningtwo differentaspectsofhisastrologicalchartareinthesamesign Forhim,it’sa lens to view theworld,and like themetaphoricaltwins representedbyhis sign,he’salwaysfound duality withinhisexperiences.OneoftheearliestbitsofBKiconographyisaskullalongsideabrightredstrawberry;theimagery hasadornedeverythingfromsockssoldatthemerchtableto thebackdrops on stages at musicfestivals.

GoingallthewaybacktohisdaysplayinginRadish,Kweller evokedthatsenseofthebittersweet.“Wecalledourmusicsugar metal,andthat’salwayssortofstuckwithme,”hesays.“Justsort ofthedualityofsalty/sweet,happy/sad,light/dark.”Hehadalready sufferedthroughthedarkesthoursofalongnight,butKweller wasbeginningtoseethesofttingesofdawnonthehorizon

AL IG HT TH AT NE VE RG OE SO UT

Ontheone-yearanniversaryofDorian’sdeath,Kweller’smom, Dee,broughtoveraYahrzeitcandle.Standinginthekitchen, family andfriends litthe ceremonial flame, whichburns for 24 hoursand signifies carrying on thelight of thedeparted family member.The Jewish traditionispracticed each year, butthe firstanniversary in particular marksa turningpoint away from grieving andbacktowardlife. It wasaroundthat time that arealization crystalizedinKweller’s mind:“Iknow I’mgoing to make anotheralbum,and clearlythisiswhat’s hittingmenow,soitwas just goingtobecolored with the emotions of losing Dorian.”

Shouting outthe feelings on tour wasone thing, butcreatinga lastingrecordthatreflectedthe depthand rangeof emotions over thepastyearpresented an entirely newchallenge. Butinthe same waythatreligious practicesprovided aroadmap,Kweller’s career as amusiciangavehim akeen senseofhow to putone foot in frontofthe other.

“Inthe middle of this complete chaosoflosingmyson,I wasabletofindcomfortandstabilityintheideaofmakingan album,”hesays. Theemotionswereraw,but he hadpractical matterstoconsider: “Analbum hastohaveanopening track. Ithastohaveaclosingtrack.Thereareboxestotick,”hesays

Musicisits ownreligion, andsongs aresacredrituals.The familiarroutineofcreatinganalbumanchoredKwellerjustas traditionsoffaithhadintheweeksimmediatelyaftertheaccident.

He also hada head start, sincehe’dalready been working onsnippetsoflyrics,melodies,andriffsbeforethattragicnight SomeofthemwereevencollaborationswithDorian—andthe songwriter waseager to give life to thoseunfinished partsof hissonthatstillhadafuture.

“Like‘Trapped,’”hegivesasanexample,“That’soneofthe last songsDorianwas workingon. We worked on it together sittingonhis bedand in this back room before thebarnwas done.” Nowconverted into aproperstudiowithwarmcedar wallsand avaulted ceiling, thespace used to be an open-air barn with adirt floorand miscellaneousitems:a punching bag,aropeswing,bicycles.“Thatwaswherewerecordedalot of Zevmusic,” he says

“I CO UL DB EC OM PL ET ELYB IT TE RA ND TH IN K

‘W HY AM IS OU NL UC KY ?’ OR IC AN TR YT OF IN D TH EB EA UT YT HATI ’V EA LW AY SH AD AH UN CH EX IS TE DI NT HE WO RL D. ”

Inaliteralway,Dorianhelpeddevelopthesongs onCovertheMirrors.AndKwellerinvitedJudah andLiz into theprocess more than ever before “Judahwouldcomeoverafterschoolandhangout with me andthe band andlistenbacktostuff,” Kwellersays.“He’sgotsuchgoodtasteinmusicthat Ireallytrustandlovehisopinions—andsamewith Liz.”Lettinggoofthereinswasabigdeparturefor thesongwriter,whosayshe’sgenerallyprettycommittedtotheversionhehearsinsidehishead

Thefamilymembers weren’tKweller’s only collaborators. CovertheMirrors also features contributionsfromKatie CrutchfieldofWaxahatchee,TheFlamingLips,MJLenderman,and JasonSchwartzman’sprojectCoconutRecords. It’s fair to seeall that communal outreach as an extensionofthetraditionalcommunitysupport that came immediatelyafter Dorian’s passing.

Oneafternoon,KwellerwassittingonDorian’s bed,playingariffhe’dbeentoyingaroundwith idly when Judahwalkedintothe room.“Dude, that’sthecoolestthingyou’veevermade,”hetold hisdad.“Make that asong.”The noodling progression endedupbecoming“Dollar Store,”a slow-burning indierockanthemthatrecalls SiameseDream–era Smashing Pumpkins and featuresbackupvocalsfromCrutchfield.“Ireallywasenjoyingeveryoneelse’sinput,andwewere allmissing Dorian,” Kwellersays.

Momentsonthe newalbum dive headlong into intenseangst andsadness,including anti-folkmissive “ParkHarveyFireDrill,” raucous firstsingle“Optimystic,”andbroodingmeditation “Depression.”The newrecordalsoincludesan abundanceofstringarrangements, ararityfor theartist.“Itaddstothefuneral-esquerequiem feel—likewe’reataceremony,”Kwellerexplains

Insomeways,hecouldcompartmentalizethe actualrecordingprocess—liketellingastoryabout somethingthathappenedtosomeone else.But attimes,therawemotionsandvisceralmemories camefloodingback—thesongrememberswhen, asTexassongwriterHughPrestwoodoncewrote.

“There were momentstrackingthisalbum withChrisMintz-PlasseonbassandRyanDean on drumsand me standing in themiddlewith my guitar,where I’dbesinging asongand just startcrying,”Kwellersays.“Definitely,therewere timeswhere it just gottobetoo much.”

BI TT ER SW EE TS YM PH ON Y

AnyonewhoknowsKweller,whetherpersonally orthroughhismusic,cantellyouthathispresence radiates with levity andsincerity.All good vibesandsmilesfromaguywho’sunafraidtobe earnest—thehuman embodiment of an upbeat text messagewithanexclamation point.

Take,for example, thecover artfor his2000 debutalbum, ShaSha:a lo-fi photograph of the

TalonShow

ThemysteriousoriginofAustin’sgreen parakeetsreinforcesthe city’s fabled weirdness.

BYHAMILTON JONES

YOUDON’T HAVE to be an avid bird-watcher to spot those relentlesslynoisygracklesastheyswarmoverH-E-Bparking lots.But there’sa more eccentricavian speciesyou mayhave seen around town:green parakeetsthathavecalledour city homeforabout50years.Thesewingedcreaturesaren’tnative tothearea, whichhas ledmanytoquestionhowthey wound up here in the firstplace.

“It’sgenerally agreed that themonkparakeets were deliberately released,probablya fewbatches at atime,”says AustinEnergy’senvironmentalprogramdirectorEricStager,a longtime Austin transplant andenthusiasticbirder. Thesefeatheredfugitivesmighthavebeenpetsthatbecame toomuchofanuisancefortheirowners,ortheymighthave flownthe coop oneday when theirhandlersweren’t paying attention.Inanycase,thepracticeofimmigrantstransportinganimals to newlands—whether intentionalornot—has alonghistory.“Sincethe 1700s, Britishimmigrantswould introducebirds from back home,suchashouse sparrows,” Stager says

Usually,domesticatedanimalsdon’tfarewellwhenliberatedintothewild,sohowhavethesebirdsmanagedtosurvive?

“The monk parakeetsare ahardy breed—ascolonizing, subtropical species, they survivethe winter temperatures from thewarmthoftheir communal nests—sometimesasbig as a car,”Stagerexplains.

Thoughnotasubiquitousasbats,armadillos,orgrackles, themonkparakeethas emergedasanother sigilofthe city forthose in theknow. They’veevengenerated enough local enthusiasm to be adoptedasthe name of oneofAustin’s burgeoningsandlotbaseballteams,theSouthAustin’Keets.

Thevibrant birdsprovide an interestingcommentaryon regional pride. When theconversationturns to “How long have youbeeninAustin?,” anynewcomerwithinsecurities canlooktothe monk parakeet fora kindredspiritwho originated elsewherebut addedsomecolor to thecity’svibrant collageofresidents.Anytimeyoufeelskittishabouthowlong you’ve nested here, find camaraderiewithmonkparakeets, theunofficial mascot of localnon-natives