001_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 27/06/2022 17:09 Page 1
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
JULY/AUGUST 2022
a self-care state ofmind
DPS NEW_Layout 1 22/06/2022 09:48 Page 1
DPS NEW_Layout 1 22/06/2022 09:48 Page 2
004_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 27/06/2022 17:35 Page 4
18
PRO HAIR LOVES: Client colour
27
SELF-CARE SPECIAL: personal, team and client wellbeing.
36
DESMOND DIRECTS: the creative collab comes to an end.
CONT SELF-CARE SPECIAL
REGULARS
BUSINESS
7
FIRST WORD
22 STEVE ROWBOTTOM
8
HEADLINES
23 PHIL SMITH
29 SELF-CARE SPECIAL
13 LOVE: TEXTURISERS
24 TINA HOLLIS
30 ME TIME
17 LOVE: PARLUX
26 DOM BLAKE
32 TAKE CARE OF YOUR TEAM
18 LOVE: CLIENT COLOUR
27 QUIF
34 ENHANCED EXPERIENCE
004_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 27/06/2022 17:36 Page 5
ISSUE 07 JULY/AUGUST 2022
50 PORTFOLIO:
Joseph Ferraro
61
COMPETITIONS: your chance to win a styler, colour brushes and hair care.
64
VISIT: Jack & the Wolfe
TENTS PORTFOLIO
PRODUCTS
36 DESMOND DIRECTS
57 SPOTLIGHT: ASP
40 HEADMASTERS ARTISTIC TEAM
58 SPOTLIGHT: REVLON PRO YOU
46 FABRIQ
59 SPOTLIGHT: FABRIQ
50 JOSEPH FERRARO
60 DROPPED: LATEST PRODUCTS 62 SPOTLIGHT: L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL 63 SPOTLIGHT: GOLDWELL
63 05
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 27/06/2022 10:43 Page 1
007_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:01 Page 7
Your Good Health Self-care habits, mindfulness and mental health are becoming increasingly popular topics and are an integral part of everyday routines for a lot of us, not only in our personal lives but in our working environments too. Investing in yourself and actually practising self-care will strengthen your resilience, increase your confidence and benefit your business. Recognising this and creating a healthy journey for you and your team will inspire and motivate everyone in the salon, making for a happier and thriving workplace. Hopefully our Special on page 29 will bring a smile to your face and put some wellness wind in your self-care sails as salon owners share their experiences and tips on personal and staff wellbeing. On a separate note, looking at the financial health of your business, I wanted to pull out a quote from our new business columnist Dom Blake from The Blushes Hair Collective (page 26): “If you are charging the same as last year, then you are charging less.” Something to think on – we will discuss it in the next issue… Wishing you a happy and healthy summer!
@PROHAIRMAG
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
Q @PROHAIRMAG
WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK
Editor
Designer
Nicola Shannon
Donna Booth
JULY/AUGUST 2022
nshannon@hamerville.co.uk Assistant Editor Megan Danskine mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk Digital Manager Rebecca Mcgeoch rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk
Group Production Manager Carol Padgett Production Assistant Claire Swendell Group Sales Manager Oliver Shannon
Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799 Fax: 01923 246901
oshannon@hamerville.co.uk
a self-care state of mind HAIR: HEADMASTERS ARTISITIC TEAM
25,291
• July 20 – June 21
Subscriptions to Professional Hairdresser are avaliable at the following rates: UK: 1 year - £30 post paid Europe and Overseas: 1 year - £50 post paid AIRMAIL: 1 year - £65 post paid. To be removed from this magazine’s circulation please call 01923 237799 or email circulation@hamerville.couk. ©2022 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be acceoted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.
07
008_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:02 Page 8
@PROHAIRMAG
Q @PROHAIRMAG
WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK
HEADLINES AMBASSADOR ANNOUNCEMENT Fabriq has announced acclaimed stylist Sally Brooks as its Global Brand Ambassador.
BACKSTAGE PASS Fudge Professional Global Ambassador Jonathan Andrew had a backstage pass to the UK’s biggest summer party as he styled Capital FM radio presenter Sonny Jay’s hair for the Summertime Ball.
THE GREAT WESTROW WALK A team of hairdressers are swapping their brushes for boots in a 100-kilometre charity challenge to raise funds for a Yorkshire children’s charity. Over three days, staff from award-winning Westrow Hairdressing Group will cross West and North Yorkshire, clocking up visits to all nine Westrow salons in support of The Principle Trust Children’s Charity.
008_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:06 Page 9
NEW FOR NEÄL & WØLF
MATRIX HITS MANCHESTER Matrix held it’s biggest UK event to date in Manchester. Matrix Evolve was packed with high-energy creativity and inspiration, and was a celebration of community, inclusivity – so much fun from start to finish. Watch the show at www.rdr.link/HAA001
Neäl & Wølf has launched into 160 Regis and Supercuts salons across the UK, and will also be available for consumers to purchase direct from the salon.
SCHOLARSHIP SUCCESS
20 YEARS OF MARC ANTONI The team at Marc Antoni are delighted to be celebrating 20 years since they first opened their Fleet salon, one of four salons within the Marc Antoni Group.
After a day of rigorous judging, the winner of the Sassoon Scholarship has been chosen. Phoebe Carraro will receive her choice from four Sassoon courses to learn and enhance her skills in cutting, colour and styling, as well as a professional tool kit and expenses courtesy of Denman International.
09
DPS NEW_Layout 1 27/06/2022 09:46 Page 1
DPS NEW_Layout 1 27/06/2022 09:47 Page 2
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 27/06/2022 09:49 Page 1
013_PHR_JUL22 DON NEW_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:03 Page 13
PRO HAIR LOVES: 8 TEXTURISERS FOR TOUSLED TRESSES Whether it’s bouncy volume, piecey texture or natural movement you’re after, here are eight texturisers to try out in the salon.
AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT Airy Texture Spray Designed to create tousled looks with texture and volume, the formula’s combination of Bamboo Cellulose, modified Rice Starch and Fairtrade Tapioca Starch provides laid-back, pliable volume. www.rdr.link/HAA002 Fudge Professional Texture Spray Instant volume, body and hold with a dishevelled natural style, this lightweight dry mist instantly lifts roots and adds texture. It provides non-sticky volume, all day hold and effortlessly brushes out. www.rdr.link/HAA003
INDOLA Texture Spray Indola Texture Spray enhances lived-in, tousled texture and volume of hair. Its lightweight formula gives a pleasant, non-sticky feel and allows natural movement and easy brushing. www.rdr.link/HAA004
Matrix Total Results High Amplify Root Lifter This styler features a targeted applicator for lift that can be directed at the root area. Or for a more voluminous and textured finish, spray Root Lifter all over. www.rdr.link/HAA006
Schwarzkopf Professional SESSION LABEL THE TEXTURIZER A texture spray for undone looks from SESSION LABEL with Tapioca Starch and Panthenol to create lightweight texture and volume for fuller-looking, tousled hair with a moisturised feel. www.rdr.link/HAA005
L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Pli Thermo-modelling Spray This strong hold memory spray is activated by heat. It helps control hair, locks in texture and is easy to brush out. It is perfect for creating a base and finishing a look - locking down flyaways, and adding gentle shine. www.rdr.link/HAA007
ALTERNA CAVIAR Professional Styling Perfect Texture Spray A combination of dry shampoo and hair spray, CAVIAR Perfect Texture Spray builds invisible scaffolding, body, shape and texture into the hair without a powdery or sticky finish. www.rdr.link/HAA008 KMS HAIRPLAY Dry Texture Spray This multi-purpose texture spray is designed to add airy volume and a textured finish. Use it in place of a dry shampoo to refresh any style or to quick and easy re-shape a second day look. www.rdr.link/HAA009
13
DPS NEW_Layout 1 18/05/2022 11:08 Page 1
DPS NEW_Layout 1 18/05/2022 11:08 Page 2
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 18/05/2022 11:09 Page 1
017_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:03 Page 17
THIS MONTH
IS LOVING THE NEW PARLUX DIGITALYON Thanks to its professional digital technology Parlux has created an exceptional lighter weight hairdryer that still maintains the reliability that the brand is known for. It has made it possible to increase power and heat, improving and speeding up the work of the most demanding professionals.
The new professional digital motor is very light with a longer life-span, 2400 watt of power (most powerful Parlux yet!) and an air flow of 88 m3/h. You’ll love it can guarantee superior performance and provide maximum power, able to face continuous use in demanding work environments. The new ‘wave’ resistance allows an increase in the temperature, maintaining a constant and more uniform heat distribution.
It also still has all the much loved features of the Alyon including: ♥ Air Ionizer technology for healthy static-free results ♥ HFS – Hair Free System ♥ Antibacterial treatment ♥ Anti-heating’ front body ♥ 2 ‘SOFT’ switches for better comfort of use ♥ Cold air button ♥ 3.30 metres of super ,strong cable ♥ 4 temperatures ♥ 2 speeds
The new redesigned filter has been designed and patented to trap more of the dirt that gets into the hairdryer, while keeping its power completely unaltered.
width of the most brushes, so as to speed up and improve the work of straightening the hair.
Get excited about the new SLIM nozzle has been specially designed to give a
With an elegant and attractive design, the
‘straightener effect’, creating straight and
Parlux DIGITALYON is available in two stylish
shiny hair in no time at all.
and apt colours: Silver and Anthracite.
Its shape allows you to uniformly dry a
For more information please visit WWW.RDR.LINK/HAA010
greater surface of hair, almost equal to the
17
018_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:03 Page 18
PRO HAIR LOVES...
CLIENT COLOUR Daniel Couch, Head of Colour at Russell Eaton Salons spreads the Shinefinity love with this simple step by step to effortless, stunning colour
DANIEL’S STEPS TO DOING WHAT HE LOVES
1. FOIL IN HAIR I pre-lightened my client’s roots using Wella Professionals Blondor with 6% Welloxon Perfect Developer. This is my go-to lightener for all my lifting needs, it gives the perfect lift. My colour placement was a classic face framing technique, working from front hairline to crown placing foils around the front hairline. After 40 minutes of development, I rinsed and treated with Blondor Seal and Care creating the perfect canvas for toning. 2. SECTION PATTERN My chosen section pattern is a “Halo” section. This pattern created two distinctive quadrants to apply colour. This is the perfect section pattern to add colour and interest whilst working to a salon-friendly time frame. 3. APPLICATION SECTION 1 For the lower section I wanted to create an area that added depth and contrast to my overall look. My chosen colours were equal parts of 09/65 + 07/59, I mixed this with the Shinefinity “bottle usage” activator
for a faster application. I allowed both toners to sit for 15 minutes without heat. Because Shinefinity is a zero damage product there is no negative impact on the hair and zero lift on the natural colour. 4. APPLICATION SECTION 2 In my top section, I applied Wella Shinefinity 09/65 from root to tip using the ‘no drip gel cream’ bowl and brush applicator. This product has zero ammonia, zero silicones, zero alcohols and zero direct-dyes and it is the perfect glaze for a fast in-salon service. 5. BLOW DRY/CURL Once I rinsed my client using Wella Colour Motion Shampoo and Conditioner, I blow-dried before curling. I used Wella EIMI Thermal Image Heat Protection spray for a light protected finish. This service was quick and easy allowing me to offer the perfect on trend look whilst working to a commercial salon time. This colour will slowly lighten ‘true to tone’ up to six weeks after application based on three shampoos a week.
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 22/06/2022 09:57 Page 1
DPS NEW 2 separate pages_Layout 1 22/06/2022 09:56 Page 1
DPS NEW 2 separate pages_Layout 1 22/06/2022 09:56 Page 2
022_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:04 Page 22
EDUCATE to
INNOVATE
Steve Rowbottom, Co-Director, Westrow and Revlon Professional’s Business Development Ambassador on why education should be the heartbeat of your business. In business, education is everything; it’s the most powerful weapon you can use to ensure your salon has a competitive commercial advantage, helping you secure and maintain your position as not just experts in your field, but more importantly, leaders. Businesses that aren’t afraid to evolve place huge emphasis on internal education, which externally highlights a dedication to both people and progress. This progressive mindset is key: investment in skillsets creates more energised mindsets, as new ways of working are developed and your business is enhanced as a result. Enhancement and education have always been at the heart of the Westrow brand, launched by me and my business partner, Marc Westerman in 1987. We launched Westrow because we loved hair, and have always been fully invested in the process of sharing. The evolution of our business and 150+ people within it certainly wouldn’t have been possible without a huge investment in the continual professional development and wellbeing of our team. This development was hallmarked with the launch of our 5,000 sq ft Westrow House Academy in the heart of Leeds, West Yorkshire in 2014. Now a multi-award-winning centre of educational excellence, our £1m investment was our dynamic statement of our dedication to education, an extension of our 35-year-old, eight-salon group, that continually allows us to unearth and develop the next generation of hairdressing talent (both from within our business as well as the 100+ affiliated salons we provide apprenticeships to). This is something we’re hugely passionate about. As hairdressers and salon owners, we all know that it’s training and talent that underpins everything we do. For your business to evolve you need to be passionate about professional development and dedicated to the evolving needs of your team. If you invest in their development, you’ll have a salon that flourishes from the inside out, while future proofing your business as well as the industry at large.
Here’s why I truly believe an investment in continual education pays: Innovation and education are interlinked. The more you know, the more you can do. Learning new skills empowers your team to think differently, to challenge the status quo, to provide fresh solutions to new or existing problems and help embed a progressive mindset within the rest of your team. A growth mindset isn’t intimidated by the unknown, but enticed by it. Instead of purely keeping up with the competition, think bigger: a growth mindset, paired with relevant learning opportunities, will help drive everything forward. Training should always take a tailored approach that supports individual proficiency. Most salons’ critical objective is service, which relies on CPD, so ensure all knowledge is cascaded down to other members of your salon team, so everyone can benefit from individual professional development. Any financial investment will pay dividends long term, with up-skilling helping boost employee performance and engagement, while cultivating a more motivated, valued team as you go. This, in turn, creates loyalty, ensuring you don’t just attract the best people, but crucially, retain them. Always look to recruit people who value investment in their continuous growth. This investment means they become better in their day-to-day work, redefining processes and roles to help make your business better and stronger along the way. While internal education processes allow you to formalise your team’s existing knowledge, external education courses offer an outside perspective and opportunity to enjoy fresh ways of thinking independent to your own policies and practice. Utilising the methodology of your product partners and affiliates is a great way to up-skill your team on key areas, such as product knowledge or extensions, which can help you utilise resources more effectively across your business as a whole, while improving the collaborative capabilities of your salons and staff. Training and development are much more than just tools to enhance your team’s skills, they can add value to your business, while positively impacting your team’s performance levels and your bottom line as a result. As Benjamin Franklin once said: ‘an investment in knowledge pays the best interest’, get it right and your salon business, and the people within it, will flourish.
023_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:45 Page 23
business
FITfor BUSINESS Phil Smith tackles another of your tricky post-Pandemic business issues...
I’ve never entered my salon into any awards but I’m beginning to think I should. It just seems like a lot of time, effort and paperwork involved. Is it worth it?
PHIL SAYS:
“If there’s one thing there’s no shortage of in the hair industry, it’s an awards competition. It can feel like there’s a trophy out there for everything. Factor in local business awards and you could be entering something every five minutes. Yes, it can seem like a lot of fuss and the entry form can be long and complicated. Other than the thrill of winning there are other reasons why I believe that entering awards makes good business sense. Here’s why…
1) STAFF MOTIVATION I’m sure you give the staff in your salon plenty of recognition for a job well done. But having an award to prove it takes it to another level. I’ve always believed that enabling talented members of your team to enter a big photographic award pays off in the end. It’s a big investment on your part but I believe you see a long-term gain. Real stars within your team will be hungry for the opportunity to prove their creativity by taking part in shoots. Backing them in their quest for awards should be treated like any other benefit or perk that you offer to attract and retain the best possible team members. My salon enjoys a very low rate of staff turnover and I genuinely believe this is down to the motivation and reward that getting involved with awards offers them. 2) TEAM BUILDING Even when a team member may not be entering an award individually, it’s still a huge motivation to see ‘their’ salon up for a top award. It feels great to be recognised by your peers and let’s face it, most ambitious staff will look to be employed by what’s seen as ‘the best’ in their local area. Everyone loves a ‘pat on the back’ and your staff will feel rightly proud of seeing you take part in awards
competitions, even if you don’t ultimately win. Whether they’re helping compile information for an entry, assisting on a shoot or having a great night out if you’re lucky enough to reach the final, it’s all a huge boost for working together and – hopefully – winning together. 3) CREDIBILITY FOR YOUR BRAND Yes, there is an element of vanity about entering awards. But it’s not just about recognising ’you’. Being an ‘award-winning salon’ lends a lot of cachet to your brand and it will 100% get you noticed. Growing the visibility of your salon to clients and in the local area is one of the best PR strategies there is. Everyone loves a success story. Make sure you talk about your entries and showcase your achievements within the salon and to the local press. My salon recently got coverage for making the shortlist of a major awards, which goes to show that your local media will support you if you can give them reason to. If you’re smart, you will capitalise on the publicity that entering awards can bring. 4) LEGACY FOR YOUR BUSINESS When all is said and done, you’re right that entering awards costs you in both time and money. But I would absolutely say that it brings a return on your investment. If approached in the right way, you can truly convert those entries into extra business. You will gain an insight into your business by putting its achievements into a measurable context and in my experience, you’ll attract new clients too. One final point – it’s worth getting a professional to put your entry together. Having great content, presented in a knockout way will make all the difference. With the combination of positive PR, great exposure and a fantastic recognition for your team, I think that entering awards is a business no-brainer. Good luck!
23
024_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 11:33 Page 24
business
THE lonely
BOSS LADY
Meet Tina Hollis, aka The Lonely Boss Lady, our new, straight talking business columnist with tons of practical advice born out of first-hand experience This month she’s telling you to Mind Your Own Business, breaking down the basics you shouldn’t be scared of… Do you know your business? I mean REALLY know it? If I were to ask you what your breakeven is for a week or month, would you know the answer? Do you keep track of your clients’ rebooking? Your client retention rates? Do you know how much it costs to deliver a service like a full head tint? To be completely honest with you I was just going through the motions of running my salon, I worked behind the chair five days a week and spent my ‘days off’ working out what bills needed paying, what stock needed ordering and basically I was just winging my way through! Like many business owners I’ve had some hard times, but I got through them. I sometimes ask myself how! But in all honesty it’s down to hard work and educating myself. Speaking to fellow stylists and salon owners, it’s amazing how many are in the same boat that I was. Why should you educate your business brain? I believe that we should all educate ourselves to keep on top of not only our skill set, but also the business side of things. Your column is your business at the end of the day, be that as an employed stylist, self-employed stylist or salon owner, if you don’t know your targets then how do you know if you’re doing well or not? What’s your client rebook percentage like and what’s the average time between those appointments? What services are earning you more? When I’ve worked with other stylists or salon owners they are all just like I was, basically working on the basis that if there’s money in the bank at the end of the month then it must have been a good month, if not then it wasn’t great How can you educate yourself? Nowadays there are so many ways to learn! Since the pandemic we have lots of online courses out there that work well for those that want to learn but find it hard to commit to a full day course. I personally prefer having education via a day or week-long course, or mentoring. Why? Because I love
interacting with others. When I teach courses I’m not just the educator, I learn from the people attending too. When I go on courses, sharing experiences and ideas, making new contacts and learning with others is just something that I thrive from. Likewise, I enjoy the personal approach of mentoring. It’s tailored to mine or the clients’ needs, it has a much more unique approach and for me that means I retain a lot more information. As hairdressers we aren’t used to just sitting down watching someone speak, and that’s why we can shy away from business education courses. 1 – Business stuff is scary. 2 – Business is boring. 3 – Business education means we can’t bury our heads in the sand. But finding the right educator for you is paramount: If you like how that person is, if you click, you’ll learn so much more. When I teach business courses I prefer it to be a conversation, I want everyone involved, bouncing ideas off of each other, I want the room buzzing! With mentoring, I’m fully committed to my customer. I know I’m there for a reason and I’m there to deliver and help them learn their business without it being scary. Tea, biscuits and a friendly approach help! Reality hits… When I learnt what I needed to do to make my business profitable, the reality hit that I had to make changes. And change is scary. You need to educate your team on running their columns properly, if you’re self-employed you have to consistently monitor yourself and your column to achieve your set goals. When the content is hard, any course, be it online or face to face should get you fired up. But it’s down to you to put the work in and take what you’ve learnt and put it into practice, otherwise what’s the point? It’s up to you to Mind Your Own Business!
To read Tina’s article in full click here.
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 22/02/2022 11:29 Page 1
026_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 11:33 Page 26
A NEW CHAPTER In a new series Dom Blake, Managing Director of The Blushes Collective discusses getting ready for the future.
People want to enjoy and feel fulfilled in their work, and we The Blushes Collective is more than 30 love to see that. We encourage our team to put forward their years old and during that time there’s been aspirations for their careers and for us to be able to support lots of changes in the industry and in them in getting there. business. Now, as we’re half way through 2022, we’re feeling And so came the inception of extremely Dom’s top tips for success Co-Working, supported by our three opportunistic; whilst in the current climate new pillars, Creative, Business and our industry along Environment. We are pioneering the with others, has been co-working revolution, a way to bridge through hell and back after Covid-19, out Be adaptable. Just because your the gap between being employed and of these times of apprehension comes model used to work doesn’t mean it self-employed, enabling stylists to revolutionary ideas. In order to survive and does now. The habits of your team found and grow their businesses, on thrive in the next chapter, it requires you to and customers have changed and their own terms. look at things differently and solve you must move with it. problems, coming at things from a new Working in synergy to provide all the perspective. When you look back at these Charge your worth. Because of amenities, support and community-feel periods of disruption, it’s where the best frequency, inflation, rising costs, if you would have working as an ideas have come from, using that time for you are charging the same as last employed stylist, and the freedom, reflection and to propagate a new chapter. year, then you are charging less. benefits and earning potential of self-employed stylist, our Creative, In a post-Covid landscape there’s certainly Focus on the next generation. been a shift in people’s attitudes in Business and Environment departments Recruitment is the hardest it’s ever general, both from a team and client allow co-workers the benefits of both been. There has never been a perspective. We’ve found clients to be a worlds. better time to explore new ways to mixed bag; some are leaving longer create your own. between their appointments, looking for a Co-workers can expect the support of a more lived-in style of colour and cut that business team to help them set up their Know your numbers. You must gives them longevity, perhaps investing in businesses, help with tax/accounting keep an eye on profitability. We are a larger more transformative appointment and marketing support within fully a fine margin business and tough that means the frequency they visit us can serviced environments. With all the nitty times can quickly turn into losses if be less. But on the other hand, there’s gritty of running a business taken care action isn’t taken. You must give been a resurgence of clients who’re keen of, we’re setting creative entrepreneurs yourself the knowledge and to retain their 6-8 week appointment free to have the time and space to do chance to act. schedule - giving them that renewed what they love. sense of normality and a massively Remember that your digital shop renewed appreciation for being able to The way the industry is working is window is more important than visit that regularly. changing and as business owners we your physical one. Whilst word of need to adapt too. We’re all creatives at mouth and referrals will always be From our internal team’s perspective, we heart and whether you’re employed or a the best form of generating new are seeing more and more the desire to freelancer, we can and should be able business, you are missing a trick if have a more flexible work/life balance, to work together in harmony. you aren’t boosting those numbers and a desire to really embark on aspects by focusing on your online of hairdressing that they truly love. business. To read Dom’s article in full click here.
027_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:07 Page 27
business
THE cost of COLOUR
Jonathan Littler, Managing Director of Alan Howard and Distributor of Quif, looks at the soaring prices of hair colour and what you can do to save.
According to latest research, UK inflation has hit a 40 year high with National Insurance contributions upped by 1.25%. Fuel, food, electricity…everything is going up and the coming months don’t seem to be any brighter. In fact, we definitely are facing one of the worst cost of living crises in recent years. This is affecting both our home and work lives across all sectors, including the hair and beauty industry. Due to factors such as Covid 19, Brexit and the war in Ukraine, many companies have faced supply chain issues when sourcing vital ingredients and packaging. This has particularly resulted in delays and massive disruptions throughout businesses across the hair and beauty industry. That is the reason why the NHBF (National Hair and Beauty Federation) determines that as a sector, hair and beauty has been hit worse than most sectors by the pandemic and still faces an uncertain future. Some salons have claimed to be spending approximately an extra £1,000.00 per month on utilities, stock and wages, for example. As a result of this, around 43% of businesses have raised their prices over the past few months with a further 58% to follow. At a glance, from 2019 to 2022 most colour brands have raised their prices by about 7%. With the usual yearly price increase of between 1% and 2%, this figure over a three to four year period might be tolerable for most hairdressers. However, certain brands on the market have risen their prices by an almighty 20% costing customers around £1 extra per tube of colour. As well as this, more
frequent price increases have occurred with some brands raising their prices twice to three times a year. If we take the case of two salons in the UK with Salon A spending £1,000 a year on colour and Salon B spending £15,000 a year on colour. If there is a 20% increase on their colour tube, which is likely to be twice as much as the current UK inflation, the same order on colour would cost salon A an extra £200 a year while salon B would be paying an extra £3,000 a year. So whether it be a small or big salon, the price increase will impact every business across the industry. In a nutshell, like we have seen in different industries, many suppliers in hair and beauty have increased their prices lately, and will probably continue to do so. However, some retailers like Boots or Superdrug have announced recently that they will freeze prices on many products for at least a year. With regards to the salon industry, the distributor Alan Howard is leading the way on this topic. As a matter of fact, as a long standing partner of hair and beauty professionals in the UK for nearly fifty years, to show their continued support to their passionate and creative community of hairdressers, Alan Howard will not increase prices on particular exclusive colour brands until 2024. To find out how much you can save on colour per year, get in touch with your dedicated Alan Howard Business Development Manager or Advisor in your local store. You also can find the information on their website: www.alanhoward.co.uk
TIPS ONE Energy & Insurance – Regularly look for the best deals available on the market.
TWO Disposable towels – Many salons are able to make cost savings by switching to disposable towels
THREE Colour usage – Measure and monitor how much colour is being used on each client so you can cut down on wastage.
FOUR Marketing – Look at what return you are getting on your marketing and reduce or remove any that doesn’t show a return
FIVE Price of the products you use – Make sure your product suppliers are offering a good balance between the price they charge and the level of education and business support they offer.
27
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 22/06/2022 09:57 Page 1
029_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:08 Page 29
self-care special
self care style -
Put some wellness wind in your self-care sails as salon owners share their tips and experience on mindfulness, mental health, the wellbeing of your clients and colleagues and, of course, looking out for ‘number one’.
29
029_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:10 Page 30
ME TIME
Mindfulness isn’t something that happens overnight. Like most things that genuinely improve your life, it takes time. Here’s advice from three hairdressers on how to look out for ‘number one’.
Morning ritual HARE & BONE’s Sam Burnett shares his mindful morning routine. Morning rituals help set up my day in the right mindset and allow me to take this attitude into the salon. The significance of morning routines cannot be under-estimated. Small, new healthy habits first thing in the morning can help you respond to life rather than react. If you wake up and immediately pick up the phone you’ll be on the back foot all day. However, if you shower, exercise, eat breakfast, meditate, walk the dog – whatever works for you – before you check in with the outside world, your day will improve significantly. Creating a short morning routine for yourself can get you mentally and physically ready for your day. We thrive on positive routines and they can strengthen our mindset and increase our health and wellbeing. I know we are all busy and appreciate that instinctively we want to get started on work as soon as possible but I promise, creating a morning routine and prioritising yourself at the start of the day will see vast, positive shifts in your energy, attitude and business.
THIS IS THE MORNING ROUTINE THAT WORKS FOR ME: Check in: Before I open my eyes I like to take a minute to check in with how I’m feeling, mentally, making a list of a few things I’m appreciative of. Breathe: After washing my face with cold water and I sit and breathe deeply for two minutes - I breathe in for four counts, filling my stomach up with air and then breathe out for six counts, exhaling all the air fully out. Slowing down my breath signals my body to relax and shifts the nervous system into a more restful state. Meditate: For 20 minutes I close my eyes and just breathe slowly and gently. Meditation develops mental awareness. It can reduce stress and reduce anxiety. There are various meditation apps but you can also meditate by repeating a mantra or sitting still.
Move: I do five minutes of light movement such as sit-ups or jogging on the spot. This releases tension and toxins. Three times a week I’ll replace this with a 45 minute HIIT workout. Then whilst I eat breakfast I will listen to an uplifting podcast. Set My Intention: Whilst in the shower I think about how I want to feel and what I want to experience in my day, for example, ‘my intention is to respond to life calmly today no matter what challenges I face.’ Using your intention like an anchor and returning to it whenever you need to will keep you on track. Start: I am ready to look at emails and start my working day.
029_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:10 Page 31
Matrix’s Ria Kulik shares monthly rules to live by to bring out the best you.
■ Put yourself first, your self-care is as important as anyone else – Take a breathe, book yourself out and take a break. Delegate if you can and write everything down. Sometimes when it’s out of your head things are clearer and not as bad as you think. ■ Set boundaries on the hours you work – the times you are available to answer client’s queries or team issues. Then stick to these hours, you can’t be there for everyone so stop trying. Just make sure you are there for yourself. Protect yourself from early starts or late nights for other people and ask them to find another appointment that suits them.
■ Step away from the phone – the worst thing about social media is you are contactable every hour of the day. Set times when you will respond and add an automated response to your DMs so clients don’t expect an answer within minutes! Before you know it they will soon stop messaging you at midnight! ■ Have something to look forward to – whether this is a weekend break, a night away or just some time to yourself to read a book. ■ Invest in yourself – give yourself a boost in your skills and your confidence. It’s also a great way to meet others in the same position.
Mental check-in
Pulp Riot’s Heffy Wheeler talks tips for prioritising personal mental health. When I talk about mental health, I come at it from someone with mental health issues, so my tips and advice come from a very personal place. When it comes to our mental health, we have to prioritise it and its importance; it’s all about finding that balance. I will over work and try to distract myself from low moods or depression, but we all cope in different ways. If we don’t prioritise our mental health, we will crash and burn then won’t be able to work and function properly. In our jobs we are talking to everyone else about their problems and concerns and it’s easy to forget about our own.
HEFFY’S FIVE TOP TIPS FOR TACKLING BURNOUT
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Educate yourself on what burnout means to you. Recognise your own signs and don’t ignore them. Face them and realise it’s not a bad thing not to be OK. There is still a taboo about mental health and it’s easy to push it to the back of your mind, but that’s not healthy or sustainable.
Try to identify the source of your burnout and work out how to cope with it. Take a few days away from clients or your boss, and if you’re really struggling go and see a doctor.
Prioritise self-care. It’s not easy to do this, especially when you’re running a business, growing your clientele, and keeping on top of social media. Whether that’s watching a film in bed, going for a run, or reading a book, there’s no right or wrong way so find what suits you.
Set some boundaries and limits – for example not working all day and evening! Stick to your limits and don’t worry about saying no to someone or something.
It’s easy to internalise your struggle, but the most important thing you can do is reach out. I talk about mental health on my social media and have connected with other people who feel similar to me, which has been really helpful. One in three people struggle with burnout, so you’re not alone.
31
self-care special
Monthly mindfulness
FIVE THINGS EVERY HAIRDRESSER SHOULD DO AT LEAST ONCE A MONTH:
029_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:11 Page 32
TAKE Employment ethos CARE OF YOUR TEAM
Melissa Timperley, owner of Melissa Timperley Salons, Manchester and Ambassador for Authentic Beauty Concept shares how she engages her team with a string of initiatives tailored to them. My team is everything to me, which is why I have always sought new ways to ensure I’m looking after them at work. As a result of some of the schemes I’ve introduced, we’ve never had any issues with recruiting (or maintaining) a team. I believe that an employed team is an engaged team and I want everyone to feel like they’re included in the business, and that we’re all part of the same family. Being employed also means they get maternity and sick pay, and everyone is paid a good salary too.
As a salon owner or manager, the wellbeing of your team is your responsibility. Here are suggestions of changes you can make to align with changing workplace culture and to keep the lines of communication open with your colleagues.
Some of the systems I implemented to keep the team happy include: ■ Our ‘one team member, one client’ ethos isn’t just a client benefit – it means nobody is rushed off their feet and they have proper breaks. By not expecting the team to multi-task, they have better balance and more time and energy. It also means they might only see two or three clients a day and still be fully booked, so they feel more relaxed and focussed. ■ Everyone currently gets regular Saturdays off, so they don’t have to use up their holiday time to enjoy a normal weekend. This is virtually unheard of in our industry and is a major morale boost for all! ■ From September, I’m also introducing flexitime. That means someone could work an extra 90 minutes on a Friday, then finish earlier one night in the week if they have a gig to go to. I want everyone to have the best work/life balance possible, so flexible hours and consecutive days off are key. ■ Mental health initiatives. We have invested in mindfulness apps for each team member, as well as running yoga and Pilates sessions during lockdown. Since the pandemic, we all have a fresh appreciation for keeping ourselves mentally and physically healthy. ■ I hold ‘My Future Vision’ meetings with each team member to keep them motivated and focused on their goals. ■ Regular team nights out are a must – they are always super fun and a great way to connect with each other away from the salon floor. Being a forward-thinking and flexible team leader has always been a priority, not only because it’s the right thing to do – but also because it’s good for business.
029_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:11 Page 33
self-care special
Communication is key The thread that allows our, and all, culture change is communication. Making the time to listen to each other, to understand different view points and figure out a way to make the changes required. The good news is that as hairdressers we excel in communication. Creating a safe space that allows, even invites, your team to have open conversations comes from you. As the salon owner you need to show vulnerability in order to connect with everyone. Doing so can lead to great things. Colin McAndrew, Medusa
Wellbeing week Simon Hill, Owner of SESH Hairdressing, suggests the idea of a Wellbeing Week to encourage empathy and compassion amongst team members. At SESH Hairdressing, I have always placed a lot of focus on the wellbeing of the team. I am very conscious that mental health is just as important as physical health. All members of the SESH family know they can approach me about anything and I have a very much open door policy which works for us. For several years, we have held an annual ‘Wellbeing Week’ where we dedicate a whole week to our mental health and wellbeing. I have worked with Pilates experts, nutrition companies, exercise professionals, healing experts and more to provide sessions for the team to explore their mental health and ensure we are all healthy. The team are so appreciative of this and it not only encourages us to look inwards at our personal mental wellbeing but also find compassion and empathy for team members who may be struggling a little. Introducing things such as a quiet space for staff to take a short break could help to ensure wellbeing for a team. At SESH, the team can pop outside for a few minutes between clients to gather their thoughts and I think this works well. Perhaps daily morning meetings could work to and team members can share their thoughts. This would help to identify any potential issues and again reinforce the open line of communication.
Cultural change Brooke Evans, Owner of BE Ironbridge, recognises what her Gen Z team want from their workplace culture. Generation Z want more flexibility with their hours. Since coming back from Covid, at BE Ironbridge, we’ve introduced a four day week, it’s gone down extremely well with the team in the salon as it gives them more of a work life balance. I also don’t limit their Saturday holidays as often as other salons, in most salons you get four Saturdays a year off but we do five and Christmas, New Year and some bank holidays. We’re shut Sunday, Monday and Tuesday but I make sure the team get all of their bank holidays back. I’m not fussed on Christmas parties and when I spoke to the team, the feeling was mutual so we’ve decided to go on a team holiday together for three days in August instead. I think when it comes to Gen Z they want to be a part of something, they want to feel like they’re wanted and have a choice. It all comes down to communication and taking everyone’s thoughts and opinions in to consideration and giving everyone a voice.
33
029_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:11 Page 34
ENHANCED EXPERIENCE
Clients come to you to feel better, whether that’s through your expertise in making them look their best, or just for some simple down time. What can you do to enhance their experience?
The client journey
Dan Mewies, Owner of Mewies & Co. offers a spa-like service to allow clients to unwind. We have spent a lot of time researching and understanding our customers wants, needs and lifestyle and this has informed every element of Mewies & Co’s offering. From our product partner, to the interior design and the services offered, our clients are at the heart of every decision made. Taking our cue from the luxe welcoming spas that have inspired our business, the client journey begins with a meet and greet, with genuine warmth and a focus on letting clients know that they are here for a blissful experience – not ‘just’ a haircut or colour. We want everyone to feel truly welcomed, and we have a dedicated seating area where they can relax, enjoy some personal space and wait with their choice of drink. A four-step consultation process is next, as we believe that successfully accumulating as much information as possible about each client is key to great results. The process involves a personal greeting, open consultation, education on self-care and the formulation of a bespoke hair spa plan. The client’s service follows, including the time spent at our hair spa. This involves an eye mask, scented essential oils, head and hand massages and the prescribed plan of products and treatments. We prefer to talk about products in terms of offering advice rather than placing too much pressure on a client to buy. This blissful service is the pinnacle of the visit for most clients, providing true escapism and time to switch off. This is the space that we’re most proud of, with four backwashes divided from the main floor and its own music to create a real sanctuary from the outside world. Our passion to really understand our customer, sense of community, to build strong relationships with like-minded local businesses and an authentic belief in what we do as a business marks us out as a truly different hairdressing space.
029_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:12 Page 35
self-care special
Renewal ritual
Every Aveda salon offers a ritual of renewal to all clients, no matter what service they are having. We have a range of rituals depending on what the client is looking for; from a stress-relieving hand ritual to a comforting tea ritual to help calm the senses. A guest knows that any Aveda salon they visit will bring them the same experience, wherever they are in the world. Hayley Hughes, National Education Manager for Aveda
Delete distractions
Robert Eaton, Creative Director of Russell Eaton Hair, has a simple technique to make a client’s service all about them. Across our two salons, generally we do not allow our team to have their phones on the salon floor. This is because the client experience is so important to us and we therefore feel it is vital that our stylists are not distracted by their phone. However, I appreciate that we live in a very different world now and there is a place for capturing salon life, using phones. We are more flexible now than we have been and we’re not opposed to our team using their phone as a consultation tool, but only if this enhances the client experience, or to occasionally record their work. We have rules to manage this, for example no phone calls or texting on the salon floor. Our clients are always the priority, and we want them to feel comfortable and relaxed at all times - their time in the chair should be all about them and their hair.
35
036_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:12 Page 36
Dean Lawton-Taylor
Our exclusive collaborations with Desmond Murray have appeared in Pro Hair for the first half of 2022 and we have seen some awesome talent in up-and-coming hairdressing stars working with him. It was thanks to Desmond and his vision and enthusiasm that saw them produce some cracking creative content. Let’s look back at some of their work…
directs
036_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:13 Page 37
Ryan Drew
“What a whirlwind this has been – absolutely fantastic opportunity to get back to some sense of creative normality after the pandemic with everyone itching to do their very best. To be honest I could have carried on and on and on. Each stylist that I worked with was a complete gem – and the collaboration of the talented make-up artist and photographer was amazing.”
37
036_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:13 Page 38
Emy Roccabella
036_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:15 Page 39
George Smith Natasa Stantic Brajovic
“I’d like to thank my team – Photographer, Chris Bulezuik, Make-up Artists, Lauren Mathis and Grace Hayward and Fashion Stylist Amelia Nevitt.”
39
040_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:21 Page 40
040_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:21 Page 41
HEADMASTERS Future’s Bright
Hair Headmasters Artistic Team Make-up Lan Nguyen-Grealis Styling Clare Frith Photography Jack Eames Art Direction Andrew Barton
040_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:22 Page 42
040_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:22 Page 43
040_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:23 Page 44
040_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:23 Page 45
046_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:26 Page 46
FABRIQ
046_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:27 Page 47
046_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:27 Page 48
046_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:27 Page 49
Hair Team Fabriq: Nikita Fisher, Rheanna Wood, Karoliina Saunders, Kayleigh Twigg, Lauren Bell, Jamie Brooks Make-up Megumi Matsuno Photography Jack Eames Art Direction Sally Brooks
050_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:28 Page 50
050_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:29 Page 51
Joseph Ferraro Decadion
050_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:32 Page 52
050_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:33 Page 53
Hair Joseph Ferraro Art Team Make-up Grace Hayward Styling Rubina Marchiori Photography Jamie Blanshard
054_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:38 Page 54
step by step
Curls allowed
ACHIEVE A NATURAL CURLY FINISH WITH GREAT LENGTHS
Step 2
Step 1 Great Lengths perm comes in three different textures, ranging from loose to tight curls. This look was created using 200 bonds in colours 03 Royal Oak and 05 Heavenly Hazel, using a red rod creating Texture 03 – medium curl.
Step 5
Step 4 Prep the hair with Great Lengths Clean Remover Shampoo, this will removing excess oils and any residue.
Step 7
Spray the perm with water to soften the curls. Run through your hands, stretching out the curl, allowing the hair to drop.
Section the client’s hair ready for application. Take a ¼ inch by ¼ inch square section. Place the Protective Shield into the hair, lining up the top line with the horizontal section – this is your guide.
Step 3 Cut the Great Lengths bonds down to half the size, matching the client’s hair density.
Step 6 Place the bond below the hair and fuse using the application arm, roll between fingers. Continue this to complete a full row.
Step 8
Continue this method working row by row up the head, alternating colours to create a seamless blended effect.
Cut and blend the hair extensions with the client’s natural hair, leaving a texturised effect. Apply Great Lengths Hair Serum to the ends of the hair, leaving a beautiful, natural finish.
TO LEARN MORE VISIT WWW.RDR.LINK/HAA028
Finish
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 22/06/2022 09:56 Page 1
056_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:38 Page 56
get the look
PEARL PERFECTION Create this cool-toned blonde by Colin Caruso, in collaboration with PAUL MITCHELL.
Before: natural level 8, canvas level 9
COLOUR STEPS
1
Section four segments off the natural part. Create a small triangle from the natural part that includes the fringe.
2
Begin the application in the fringe segment using Formula 1. Start at the front hairline with two back-to-back babylights and continue through the hairline, alternating babylights and slices.
3
In side and back segments, weave diagonal back sections using Formula 1 and Formula 2, alternating between two highlights to one lowlight.
4 5
Hand-paint hair in between sections with Formula 3 to brighten ends.
Process until desired lightness, then rinse and shampoo with Paul Mitchell Color Protect Post Color Shampoo.
6
Towel-dry and apply Formula 4 to tone and refine from base to ends. Process for 20 minutes.
7
Rinse, shampoo with Paul Mitchell Color Protect Post Color Shampoo and condition.
COLOUR FORMULAS Formula 1 | Highlight 1 well-rounded scoop SynchroLift+ + 2 oz. (60 g/ml) 20 volume Paul Mitchell Cream Developer
Formula 2 | Lowlight 1 oz. (30 g/ml) The Demi 7P (7/8) + 1 oz. (30 g/ml) 7N (7/0) + 2 oz. (60 g/ml) Paul Mitchell Processing Liquid
Formula 3 | Hand-Paint 1 full scoop Skylight + 1.5 oz. (45 g/ml) 30 volume Paul Mitchell Cream Developer
Formula 4 | Tone and Refine 2 oz. (60 g/ml) The Demi 10P (10/8) + 2 oz. (60 g/ml) Paul Mitchell Processing Liquid
FIND OUT MORE ABOUT PAUL MITCHELL HAIR COLOUR AT WWW.RDR.LINK/HAA011
057_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:39 Page 57
spotlight
BLONDE AND BRIGHT ASP adds an Anti-Yellow Mousse to its System Blonde collection. ASP System Blonde Anti-Yellow Mousse Brighten natural blonde, pre-lightened or grey hair with this violet toning mousse. Colour-correcting pigments neutralise unwanted yellow tones and protect against brassiness. White or greying hair is enhanced with a hint of silver. It creates volume, texture and shine, whilst extracts of goji berry and blackcurrant leave hair nourished and hydrated. ✔ Brightens natural blonde, pre-lightened, or grey hair. ✔ Nourishes and hydrates with goji berry and blackcurrant. ✔ Creates volume, texture, hold and shine.
ALSO IN THE RANGE… ASP System Blonde Anti-Yellow Shampoo Restore the brightness of natural blonde, pre-lightened or white hair with this violet toning shampoo, which gently removes impurities while colour-correcting pigments neutralise unwanted yellow tones and protect against brassiness. ASP System Blonde Anti-Yellow/Anti-Orange Conditioner For use after System Blonde Anti-Yellow or Anti-Orange Shampoo to maintain the effect, this conditioner is enriched with violet colour pigments and special cationic ingredients. It hydrates the hair, leaving it smoother and brighter with luminous shine.
GIVEAWAY We have five sets of the ASP System Blonde Anti-Yellow range, including the brand new mousse, to give away. Simply enter your details at WWW.RDR.LINK/HAA012 to be in with a chance of winning.
57
058_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:39 Page 62
BANISH THE BRASS GIVE BLONDE HAIR THE LIGHT IT DESERVES Get instant and long-lasting neutralisation with this dynamic duo from Revlon Professional. The formula is enriched with the Violet Bright System which instantly mutes warm undertones to neutralise brassiness from the first application.
WHO’S IT FOR? PRO YOU Neutralizing Shampoo and PRO YOU Neutralizing Foam are the perfect prescription for blonde, bleached or grey hair. PRO YOU Neutralizing Shampoo cleanses deeply and instantly, muting warm undertones to neutralise brassiness from the first application. The no-rinse PRO YOU Neutralizing Foam further enhances by eradicating warm undertones, whilst condition the hair to improve combability.
TO LEARN MORE VISIT WWW.RDR.LINK/HAA013
059_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:40 Page 61
spotlight
Protein Want to give your clients stronger, smoother, healthier hair in under 30 minutes? Then take a look at QUICK FIX.
“Fabriq offers a solution to clients who struggle to manage their unruly hair. With Quick Fix, I’m able to transform hair to make it more manageable without compromising the health of the hair.” NIKITA FISHER, TEAM FABRIQ
Quick Fix from Fabriq is an in-salon protein treatment that achieves great results on all hair types. Clients will be living their best hair life quickly and for longer, with healthy, shiny and easy-to-manage hair. It takes under 30 minutes to apply and the results last up to a month. There are two Quick Fix options depending on hair type: ReHydrate – adds moisture without weight and is good for coarse, dry or damaged hair, as it will hydrate to just the right level to maximise the proteins, for a soft, silky finish.
ReBuild – creates semi-permanent strength by coating the outside with proteins whilst slightly penetrating it at the same time, for luxurious results on fine, thin or limp hair. The unique blend of flexible, heat-activated proteins in Quick Fix reach maximum effect as they become completely dried in, retaining the shape of the hair while adding strength, hydration and shine. Whether your clients want sleek and straight or want to embrace their natural curls and texture, this treatment will deliver. For an intense boost of hair repair, Quick Fix + has greater power and takes slightly longer at 45 minutes. TO LEARN MORE VISIT WWW.RDR.LINK/HAA014
GIVEAWAY...
£700
We have one Fabriq Starter Pack worth over including the two Quick Fix treaments to give away. Simply enter your details at WWW.RDR.LINK/HAA015 to be in with a chance of trying this new range.
59
060_PHR_JUL22 Don_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:40 Page 60
1. CLARIFYING CARE Olaplex No. 4C Bond Maintenance Clarifying Shampoo, a weekly deep cleansing shampoo formulated with a broad-spectrum clarifying system to remove impurities that weigh down hair and cause damage without stripping hair. www.rdr.link/HAA016
2. #SPLASHYATRASH Green Salon Collective has partnered with Foil Me to create a bespoke, eco-conscious colour foil that increases awareness of recycling solutions for salon waste. Each eye-catching foil depicts the nine simple steps that GSC uses to recycle all salon metals, with a call to action to #SplashYaTrash. www.rdr.link/HAA017
1
2
3. ALL-NEW ASH INDOLA’s latest XpressColor Ash Shades, 5.1, 7.1 and 9.1, which will sit under the Fashion Shades are perfect for the solo stylist on the go. With INDOLA’s #XpressColor shades, root re-touches, partial colours and short crops are now three times faster. www.rdr.link/HAA018
3
4
5
4. SURF’S UP Bumble and bumble Surf Wave Foam is a quick-drying buildable wave maker that instantly adds separation and definition to make styling and restyling a breeze, with the added benefit of UV protection. www.rdr.link/HAA019
5. SPRAY-ON SOLUTION
6
Matrix Instacure Spray is designed to target porosity in the hair, while detangling and smoothing the cuticle. This miracle product, now available in 200ml retail size, also helps balance PH and tame frizz. www.rdr.link/HAA020
6. FRIZZ-FIGHTING FOAM
7
THESE NEW PRODUCTS HAVE JUST
DROPPED
AVEDA’s nutrient-rich styling foam delivers luxurious hydration, natural shine and soft hold. The nourishing formula of Nutriplenish Styling Treatment Foam conditions and softens hair without stiffness or build-up, and helps fight frizz and fly-aways. www.rdr.link/HAA021
7. DROPS OF DELIGHT Philip Kingsley Density Preserving Scalp Drops contain an innovative active complex designed to help maintain follicle condition and protect hair density and quality over time. They improve hair condition, reduce scalp visibility and slow hair loss. www.rdr.link/HAA022
060_PHR_JUL22 Don_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:42 Page 61
GiVEAWAY...
GiVEAWAY...
JOICO DEFY DAMAGE COLLECTION WORTH OVER £65
DENMAN X JACK HOWARD PRECISION COLOURING KIT WORTH £25
Have your clients protect what they love this summer with the JOICO Defy Damage range, which protects against UV exposure, environmental pollution and heat styling. The damage-limiting regime consists of a Defy Damage Protective Shampoo, Conditioner and Masque, a Defy Damage Protective Shield for daytime and a Defy Damage Sleepover overnight nourishing treatment.
Denman’s Precision Colouring Brushes come in three sizes: Small–for detailing and micro-Balayage; Medium–for classic Balayage, re-touching and highlights; and Large–for panel colouring, pasting, and glazing. Also included is the Balayage Board which was created using Jack’s own extensive experience and skill as a Balayage artist, and a Mixing Brush exclusively for mixing and preparing colours, leaving the Precision Brushes solely for the technical work, avoiding splaying and prolonging the brushes’ pristine condition.
We have six travel sets of the JOICO Defy Damage range to give away, each coming with a full-size JOICO Defy Damage Sleepover. Enter your details at www.rdr.link/HAA023 to be in with a chance of winning one.
We have three Denman Precision Colouring Kits to give away. Enter your details at www.rdr.link/HAA024 to be in with a chance of winning one.
WIN... HH SiMONSEN TRUE DiViNiTY MK2 STYLER WORTH £96
The elegantly designed styler delivers exceptional performance, whether you’re using it as a straightener or a curler. The double titanium and Teflon-coated plates with oils and tourmaline seal cuticles and protect hair from damage, leaving it silky smooth and full of gorgeous and healthy shine. Thanks to a sleek, ergonomic design and minimum weight, the styler is super easy and comfortable to work with. 쎲 쎲 쎲 쎲 쎲 쎲 쎲
Touch temperature setting from 120-230° C Dual function (110V-240V~) Ready in less than 10 seconds Sleep mode function Double coated ceramic surfaces with Teflon, oils and and tourmaline Matching heat resistant bag Three metre rubber cord
Passion4Hair has kindly gifted us with three True Divinity MK2 Stylers in pink to give away. Enter your details at www.rdr.link/HAA025 to be in with a chance of winning one.
61
062_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:49 Page 62
PEDAL TO THE METAL L’ORÉAL PROFESSiONNEL’S METAL DETOX RANGE iS THE BREAKTHROUGH iN-SALON TREATMENT.
Even the cleanest, purest water that comes through a tap contains metal because of pipe erosion. However, wash after wash, copper can build up and accumulate inside the hair fibre which can make it more vulnerable to breakage during colour, balayage and lightening. When the excess copper meets the oxidant (the hydrogen peroxide that activates the dyes), there is an increase the risk of breakage. L’Oréal Professionnel has found a solution in a specific molecule: Glicoamine. Metal Detox is enriched with Glicoamine and neutralises excess copper in the hair. The result? A reliable colour that looks even, shiny and healthy-looking with up to 87% reduction in breakage.
THE BREAKTHROUGH IN-SALON TREATMENT: L’Oréal Professionnel Metal Detox Pre-Treatment The first step is to neutralise excess copper in the hair in salon before colour is applied. The L’Oréal Professionnel Metal Detox Pre-Treatment is sprayed onto dry hair and by the time the stylist has prepped the colour, the hair will have air dried. Once the hair has been coloured, the cleansing cream shampoo cleanses the hair fibres to gently remove the excess copper and colour, thus ensuring the colour’s clarity.
THE AT HOME CARE COLLECTION: L’Oréal Professionnel Metal Detox Shampoo and Masque Following the in-salon treatment, clients can maintain care at home by using the shampoo along with the anti-deposit protector mask to continue protecting the hair during washes. This is especially important because after technical services the hair fibre is even more porous. Both products have a delicate citrusy scent with a woody base note. Developed exclusively by the nose Frederique Terranova, it ensures a sensory experience every time the products are used – and voila! For clients looking for ways to keep their hair in good condition and for professionals who don’t want to see their colour services compromised, Metal Detox is set to be a gamechanger in the colour category. TO LEARN MORE VISIT WWW.RDR.LINK/HAA026
063_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:42 Page 63
spotlight
SHOW OF STRENGTH
Goldwell’s new intensive professional regime provides instant strength and resilience for weak, fragile hair that is prone to breakage.
Offering a full range of technologically-advanced hair formulas suitable for all hair types, it instantly reinforces and restructures hair from roots to ends achieving strong, more resilient and beautiful hair. How does it work: An innovative Inter-Amino-Bond Builder fortifies hair from the inside out. Peptides and amino acids penetrate into the hair cortex, targeting the damaged areas. Compounds of red and brown algae extracts form ionic and hydrogen bonds, embedding these peptides in the inner cortex, making the hair fibre stronger and more resilient. At the same time, Goldwell’s proprietary MicroPROtec Complex distributes all of the essential ingredients quickly and evenly for results you can instantly see and feel.
THE STRONG LEADERS: ■ Fortifying Shampoo: Instantly delivers structure and care for weak fragile hair while its Goldwell exclusive FadeStopFormula minimises colour fading with every use. ■ Fortifying Conditioner: Immediately creates stronger hair with visibly less breakage while protecting against further mechanical damage when combing or brushing. ■ 60Sec Treatment: Instantly strengthens hair fibre by up to 100% in 60 seconds, to prevent breakage and split ends and seal the cuticle for smoothness, combability and protection - all without weighing down the hair. ■ Repair & Structure Spray: Smooths the hair’s surface and preps it for styling while providing long-lasting cuticle protection and resilience against day-to-day stressors, even on fine, fragile hair. ■ Day & Night Bond Booster: Instantly reduces breakage and split ends by up to 99% while imparting long-term strength and stability to each individual hair strand. This specific formula supports the Bond Protein network and provides the ultimate strengthening benefits with the highest concentration of the Inter-Amino-BondBuilder in the range.
TO LEARN MORE VISIT WWW.RDR.LINK/HAA027
63
064_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:43 Page 64
visit
Jack & the Wolfe Bringing a little bit of ‘London’ to the quaint quarter of Lymington in the New Forest, Jack & the Wolfe is the delightful salon owned by uber-cool couple Jack Mead and Lydia Wolfe.
How did you decide on the style of your salon interior? A lot of the salon concept was born from the location of the property and the age of the building. It was built in the 1700s and has a colourful history of smugglers tunnels running through the cellar and was the location of brothels for the passing sailors and traders from the Quay. We had visions of an ‘oldy-woldy’ hideaway like something out of Harry Potter but with an edge of contemporary quirkiness that comes with our own personal styles. Where did you find the inspiration for your design? So much of what inspired us was drawn from the building’s original features: Wonky walls and floors, narrow passageways, original beams and a large fireplace. Did you use an interior designer? We didn’t. I guess part of the fun of being creatives is being able to create your dream salon environment. However when we expanded we used an interior architect called Emma Edward, who helped us navigate planning permission and gave us good ideas on how to best utilise what could be quite an unpractical space.
Describe the vibe created by your interior? Cosy, calm and quirky: Our interior vibe is a marriage of luxury with eccentricity. Whilst the entrance and waiting area is very dark green, almost black, with low ceilings and pockets of lowlighting, our upstairs salon is bright white and greens with high ceilings. It creates different zones which in turn have their own vibes. What do you hope is your clients’ first impression when they walk in? Inviting and calm but still bursting with creativity. Our entrance is dark and cosy but your eye is drawn through to the bright and airy sun room studio at the back. We also have pink neon lights for a contemporary contrast.
064_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:43 Page 65
What salon software do you use and what feature of it do you find most useful? Fresha and the online booking which clients find really easy to use and can be linked through our own app. What salon furniture have you chosen and why? Our salon furniture is the Insignia Texas range from Salon Supplies. We have the chairs and the basins which are a black Chesterfield style design which we thought went perfectly with our eclectic antique theme. They were affordable and comfortable and we’re really happy with them.
Do you have any curated pieces or special features/areas in the salon? On our first floor salon we have a mural of an 18th century oil painting. We’re based in the New Forest National Park and I loved that the painting depicts a treeline that brings together our surroundings inside the salon, plus the age of the painting is the same age as the building which I feel tied it together. Tell us what are the key elements of your salon design? To the rear of the ground floor of our salon we have a self-contained private studio complete with one chair and one basin. It has a beautiful view across our mature garden and caters for clients who desire more privacy for services such as hair replacements or those who are still nervous about proximity in a post-Covid world. How have you embraced sustainability within the design? The majority of our fittings and furniture including mirrors, stations, storage and artwork are upcycled or antique. This started off out of necessity where we wanted to create a luxurious space on a super tight budget - we literally could not afford to buy anything except our basins new, but we love our upcycled
elements so much that it became a key feature of the overall salon design. Every mirror is unique because they were all sourced individually second hand and the stations are made from the ends of antique dining tables that we sourced on Facebook Marketplace and were given a new lease of life by securing them with antique brass brackets to the walls. Each is unique.
Did your product brand/colour house influence your style of interior design? We use Goldwell colour which comes in canisters instead of tubes. With our colour bar area we designed built-in storage for our canister racks which are a real feature. The way the cans are all lined up is so satisfying and that has become a talking point in itself.
Do you have dress code/uniform for your team? Our dress code is smart/casual in any colour. We want the team to be able to express their individuality and we’re also passionate about looking smart. We have an affluent clientele and want to be esteemed as a luxury yet creative environment. I think our team’s look is a great representation of our vibe.
65
066_PHR_JUL22_Layout 1 28/06/2022 10:43 Page 66
hairdressers at home Current British Hairdresser of the Year, Robert Eaton, here’s what he is watching, reading and doing.
best music I have a really varied taste in music! My playlist is a mash-up of Ibiza classics I have enjoyed many Ibiza holidays over the years! Bands from the 90s, including Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Pulp and of course the iconic Oasis – especially their first album (Definitely Maybe). I also love 80s music too being an 80s child myself – it was such a great decade for music – Blondie, Duran Duran, New Order, David Bowie, Queen and Eurythmics are just some of my favourite 80s artists. I am often listening to different music whilst thinking of sound tracks for shows I work on.
best sport I am a cycling fan and love to get out on my road bike... when I can! I live in Yorkshire and luckily for me, I am surrounded by some really beautiful but challenging biking routes including many of the Tour de Yorkshire rides!
best food I love all food but a Sunday roast would definitely be my favourite meal of the week – it has to include Yorkshire puddings. I do also have a sweet tooth and love any kind of chocolate!
best films If it’s up to me I will always pick a sci-fi movie – Matrix and Alien are two of my favourites, thanks to their storylines and special effects (which were so advanced at the time!). However, most of the time my two daughters choose what we are watching and Disney’s Encanto is a firm favourite in our household at the moment.
best box set It has to be Stranger Things – I have been gripped since the very first episode. I love the soundtrack and the nods throughout to classic 80s films I grew up watching myself such as Ghostbusters and Indiana Jones. I can easily binge two or three episodes at a time but always regret the late night the next morning!
best podcast Dom Lehane’s How to Cut It is amazing and has done so many great things for the industry. I find it fascinating listening to people’s stories and insights into our industry.
best magazine I love fashion magazines such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. They are a great resource for inspiration and identifying trends that I can translate to our salon clients.
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 19/04/2022 10:08 Page 1
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 27/06/2022 12:45 Page 1