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USEFUL CITY INFORMATION n.1 july/august 2023 OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF THE ROMAN ASSOCIATION OF HOTEL CONCIERGES “LES CLEFS D’OR“ ART AND EVENTS \ MUST-SEE FOUNTAINS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL GARDENS CACIO E PEPE \ AROUND SABAUDIA & THE CIRCEO TOP ATTRACTIONS \ RESTAURANTS GUIDE
ROME CONCIERGE

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ITALIAN RESTAURANT - PIZZERIA - CAFFE - LOUNGE BAR
INDEX ART appointments 17 MONUMENTS fountains 26 july/august 2023 13 Events: dates for your diary
Art appointments
Fashions tips: the must-have items
The Concierge Giulia Romagnani advices 26 Jeux d’eau: the city’s famous fountains
Green vibes: the most beautiful gardens
Where to try the best Cacio e Pepe in the city
A journey between Sabaudia and the Circeo N.1 ITINERARY gardens 42
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TOP PLACES 70 Museums and archaeological sites 79 Monuments 82 Churches 88 Gardens and parks 89 Palaces 90 Restaurants 94 Information travelling 96 Hotels 98 Maps ITINERARY Sabaudia and the Circeo 62 TOP PLACES churches 82 INDEX N.1 july/august 2023

Official magazine of the Roman Association of Hotel Concierges

“Les Clefs d’Or” www.romelesclefsdor.com

PRESIDENT

Ekaterina Krotova

PUBLISHER

Alex Vi orio Lana & Ma eo Parigi Bini

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Ma eo Parigi Bini

MANAGING EDITOR

Martina Olivieri

EDITORIAL STAFF

Teresa Favi, Francesca Lombardi, Virginia Mammoli

CONTRIBUTORS

Salvatore La Spina

COVER

Valentina Stefanelli

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Valentina Stefanelli, Daniele Fregonse, Joanne Bergamin, Dario Garofalo

ART EDITORS

Melania Branca, Clelia Giardina

TRANSLATIONS

Centotraduzioni, Tessa Conticelli

ADVERTISING AND MARKETING DIRECTOR

Alex Vi orio Lana

ADVERTISING

Nicola Brigandì, Alessandra Nardelli, Monica Offidani, Paola Pacio i, Stefano Papini

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BY CHRISTIAN SPALVIERI
Atelier di Roma • Via del Plebiscito 102, angolo Via degli Astalli

WELCOME TO ROME

Dear Guest, We wish you a very warm welcome to Rome, on behalf of all the Golden Keys concierges. Rome Concierge Information is our concrete commitment to making your stay in our city a truly memorable experience. In this magazine you will find all the information

you might need and, above all, our sug g estions for the best the city has to offer in July and August. In this issue, provided personally by us to you, we will share with you the events you should not miss, the most beautiful exhibitions to see in the city and the restaurants absolutely worth trying to taste authentic Roman cuisine. Along with this, the most beautiful gardens, must-see fountains in the city and a unique itinerary outside Rome, between Sabaudia and Circeo. We remain at your disposal at our hotels, delighted to receive your inquiries and requests. From all of us, have a wonderful and amazing stay!

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EDITORIAL
President of the Roman Association of Hotel Concierges “Les Clefs d’Or”
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CARACALLA FESTIVAL 2023

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

1

LA TRAVIATA

Until 9 August

Baths of Caracalla

Verdi’s La traviata returns to the Baths of Caracalla with a modern staging. In his adaptation, Lorenzo Mariani has set the story in the 1960s with a ‘Dolce Vita’ atmosphere, paying homage to the Rome of Federico Fellini. Paolo Arrivabeni is the conductor.

THE

MAGICAL MUSIC OF HARRY POTTER

26 August

Auditorium Parco della Musica

CARMEN CONSOLI AND ELVIS COSTELLO

28 August

Auditorium Parco della Musica

A great show with a live performance of the films’ most famous songs and musical pieces with a choir, a symphony orchestra, soloists and the extraordinary participation of one of the actors of the film series. 3

Rock singer-songwriter Carmen Consoli and music legend Elvis Costello come together for a concert as part of Roma Summer Fest 2023. The live performance is a journey through the extraordinarily multi-faceted and successful careers of the two artists, and includes much-loved classic hits as well as incredible new versions.

13 EVENTS
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ANNE TERESA DE KEERSMAEKER

11 September

Auditorium Parco della Musica

Following the success of Drumming, international dance icon Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker returns to Romaeuropa Festival with her company Rosas, continuing her research into the relationship between music and movement.

EXIT ABOVE – A er the Tempest is an original confrontation with the roots of Western pop.

PETER BROOK & MARIE-HÉLÈNE ESTIENNE,

TEMPEST PROJECT

26 September - 1 October

Auditorium Parco della Musica

A year a er his death, Romaeuropa Festival pays homage to the great Peter Brook, one of the most emblematic and revolutionary figures in contemporary theatre, with the Shakespearean adaptation Tempest Project, directed by his fellow playwright and assistant Marie-Hélène Estienne.

FOR MORE DETAILS AND RESERVATIONS, ASK YOUR “LES CLEFS D’OR” CONCIERGE

14 EVENTS 5
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MUSIC AND THEATRE: THE MOST BEAUTIFUL EVENTS NOT TO BE MISSED THIS SUMMER IN ROME

In the heart of Rome IN THE CENTER OF THE WORLD

CAPUT MUNDI THE MALL

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COLOUR AND LIGHT: THE LATEST WORKS

Until 2 September

Galleria Continua, The St. Regis Rome

Inside the prestigious hotel, The St. Regis Rome, in the spaces of Galleria Continua, is Color and Light: the latest works, a new exhibition by Michelangelo Pistoletto. It is an intercontinental project, aimed at highlighting Pistoletto’s art in all its forms, from its genesis to the present day.

ITALY IS A DESIRE. PHOTOGRAPHS, LANDSCAPES AND VISIONS 1842 - 2022

Until 3 September

ENZO CUCCHI. THE POET AND THE MAGICIAN

Until 24 September

MAXXI, Gallery 4

ART APPOINTMENTS 1 2 3

Like an alchemist, he bewitches and moulds his subject, and like a storyteller he evokes tales, myths and places. Enzo Cucchi (born in 1949 in Morro D’Alba), is the protagonist of the large solo exhibition ‘Il poeta e il mago’ (The poet and the magician). Instead of a classic retrospective, it is an unprecedented portrait of a multifaceted and visionary artist.

The exhibition aims to highlight both historical and contemporary photography through an extraordinary account of the representation of the Italian landscape over the course of almost two centuries - from the mid-19th century to the present day. More than 600 works that take us through an exploration of the evolution of the ways in which the Bel Paese has been represented.

EXHIBITIONS 17
Scuderie del Quirinale

METAMORPHIC PICASSO

Until 5 November

The National Gallery of Modern Art

On the 50th anniversary of Pablo Picasso’s death and 70 years after his major exhibition in 1953, the National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art celebrates the great master, an incomparable figure of 20th century art, with this major exhibition. displaying a selection of 300 works, it includes drawings and engravings from the Casa Natal Picasso Museum in Malaga. This is a unique opportunity to experience Picasso’s work.

PHILIPPE HALSMAN. FLASH OF GENIU

Until 7 January Museo di Roma in Trastevere

With more than one hundred images in various formats, both in colour and black and white, and spanning the entire career of one of the most important photographers of the 20th century, is the exhibition of Philippe Halsman. His photographs are the result of his volcanic creativity and the synergies that manifested themselves in his encounters with great and illustrious friends.

FOR MORE DETAILS AND RESERVATIONS, ASK YOUR “LES CLEFS D’OR” CONCIERGE

EXHIBITIONS 18
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LET’S DISCOVER ROME WITH GIULIA ROMAGNANI

As a Chiavi d’Oro Concierge of Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome Hotel, here are a few tips to those visiting the city to help them get the most out of their stay

My hotel experience started in 2016, one year after I moved from my birthplace - Tuscany - to Rome.

Since that moment, the Eternal City has been my second home. The thing I love the most about being a concierge is having the opportunity to do something exceptional for our guests, making the difference in their lives. This is one of the reasons why, to me, the golden keys we wear on our uniforms are much more than just a symbol:

they represent our daily committment towards our guests. In 2022, I was awarded as Best Italian Young Concierge and last March I had the honour to represent Italy at the 14th edition of Les Clefs d’Or Award, held during the 67th International LCD Congress in Istanbul, Turkey. I enjoyed every single moment of this powerful experience and above all, I strengthened a deep bond with colleagues and friends coming from all over the world.

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CONCIERGE ADVICE

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF CARAVAGGIO

Not all the paintings are inside the museums… As a revolutionary artist, Caravaggio le his trace throughout Rome: enter into the three churches that still keep his masterpieces and get up close to the Master of light.

EXPLORE MONTI DISTRICT

Immerse yourself in one of the most bohemian and lively districts of Rome: Monti. Walk through its narrow streets, admire the artisan’s workshops and fall in love with the authentic Roman soul!

SUNSET AT GIARDINO DEGLI ARANCI

Rome means Romance and the Giardino degli Aranci is the perfect place where you can enjoy a breath-taking view over the city. Be er if enriched by the warm colours of the sunset.

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

The great Opera tradition lives all year round thanks to the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma: during the Summer, don’t miss the performances played in the suggestive location of the Roman Baths of Caracalla.

ROME BY VESPA SIDE-CAR

Discover the Eternal City feeling like in a black-and-white movie riding an iconic Vespa Side-car: your Roman holidays start now!

25 TIPS
Trevi Fountain

JEUX D’EAU

The city’s famous fountains

TEXT Salvatore La Spina photo Valentina Stefanelli

The fountains are enough to justify a trip to Rome declared the great English poet Shelley during his Roman sojourn, fascinated by the beauty of the eternal city’s fountains. Indeed, no other city in the world can compare. Wherever one looks - in elegant courtyards, the grounds of ancient and noble villas, along the streets of Rome or the Vatican, isolated and solitary, in small urban gardens and piazzas - Rome’s fountains represent a fundamental element of this city, as well an immense artistic and cultural heritage.

Today Rome is home to some two thousand fountains, some of which embody in the collective imagination not only a symbol of the city of Rome but all of Italy. Describing all of them is impossible; here we will present a selection, in an itinerary that traces Rome’s architectural grandeur.

ARTISTIC AND CULTURAL

The marvelous Trevi Fountain is the most famous, and probably the most beautiful, fountain of the city. Fellini’s film La dolce vita with Anita Ekberg and Marcello Mastroianni made it so famous. This is the fountain where you must throw a coin if you want to return to Rome. The fountain is at the end of a Roman aqueduct built in 19 A.D. and it was designed by Nicola Salvi in 1735, commissioned by Pope Clement XII. The Trevi Fountain, one side of which is placed against Palazzo Poli is inspired by the sea and is inserted in a large rectangular pool with rounded corners. At the center of the scene, against the background of a rocky wall, Poseidon is driving a chariot in the form of a shell, pulled by two winged horses, which represent the different humors of the sea, sometimes stormy and sometimes calm. Beside the central niche there are two statues that represent

AN IMMENSE HERITAGE

Health and Abundance. At the edges, there are four great Corinthian columns bearing four smaller allegorical statues representing the abundance of fruit, the fertility of the fields, the wealth of autumn and the grace of the gardens. In the centre of Piazza Farnese are two magnificent fountains: essentially two large granite tubs that originated from the ancient Roman Baths of Caracalla. The first was installed by Paul III around the mid-sixteenth century. Sources from that time note that this tub had been used by nobles and city authorities such as the honorary tribune to watch the bullfights held in the piazza. The second basin was installed under Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, forty years after the first. Both tubs were originally empty of water when installed, and it was only a er the significant restoration works carried

28 ITINERARY
29 ITINERARY
TheFontanadelTritone(TritonFountain) byGianLorenzoBerniniinPiazzaBarberini
30 ITINERARY
Trevi Fountain
31 ITINERARY
The Trevi fountain is at the end of a Roman aqueductbuiltin19A.D.anditwas designedbyNicolaSalviin1735
32 ITINERARY TurtleFountain,PiazzaMattei

out on the Roman aqueduct acqua Traiana that they were transformed into fountains, by Girolamo Rainaldi in 1626. The tubs are placed within large Travertine basins, with a richly-decorated, amphora-shaped balustrade that holds a small fountain topped by the heraldic lily of the Farnese house, to decorate the space facing this palace, the richest and most magnificent of seventeenth-century Rome. In Piazza Barberini we come to the Fontana del Tritone (Triton Fountain) by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, commissioned by Pope Urban VIII during the refurbishment of the palace and piazza, built between 1642 and 1643. Made entirely from Travertine, this fountain features a triton kneeling on a large shell and blowing into another shell, out of which water flows, while propped up by four dolphins; the dolphins in turn are portrayed with

open mouths at water level, their bodies raised upwards, and the papal coat of arms with the heraldic Barberini bees in between. At the foot of one of the world’s most celebrated staircases, the Spanish Steps, is the Fontana della Barcaccia (Fountain of the Ugly Boat), built in 1626 by Pietro Bernini and commissioned by Urban VIII. Completed in 1629, the fountain originally stood in the piazza prior to the construction of the famous staircase. Young Gian Lorenzo also participated in its construction. Given the low water pressure in the area, Bernini designed a fountain in the shape of a boat, partially sunken into an oval tub that was placed under street level. At the centre of the boat, a short balustrade supports a small basin from which water spurts. The name “barcaccia” derives from the boats used to transport casks of wine in

33 ITINERARY
THE MARVELOUS TREVI FOUNTAIN IS THE MOST FAMOUS, AND PROBABLY THE MOST BEAUTIFUL, FOUNTAIN OF THE CITY. FELLINI’S FILM LA DOLCE VITA WITH ANITA EKBERG AND MARCELLO
MASTROIANNI MADE IT SO FAMOUS. THIS IS THE FOUNTAIN WHERE YOU MUST THROW A COIN IF YOU WANT TO RETURN TO ROME
34 ITINERARY
TheFontanadeiQuattroFiumi (FountainoftheFourRivers),designed andmodelledbyGianLorenzoBernini
35 ITINERARY

ancient Rome, which were very similar to the fountain with their noticeably low sides needed to facilitate the unloading and loading of casks.

In the small piazza Ma ei is an unusual and gracious fountain called ‘Delle Tartarughe’ (‘The Turtles’), built by Giacomo della Porta in 1581. Although not one of the city’s most monumental, this fountain is worth highlighting not only for the fineness of the piece but also for the popular legend associated with it: Duke Mattei, whose palazzo is right off this piazza, meaning to impress his future fatherin-law (who did not want

to agree to the duke’s marriage to his daughter), had this fountain constructed in only one night. He invited his future bride and her father to a window in the palace to ad icked up, as it still is today.

Our voyage through the fountains of Rome concludes with one of the most impressive and famous: the Fontana dei Qua ro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers). Designed and modelled by Gian Lorenzo Bernini between 1648 and 1651, and commissioned by Pope Innocent X, this fountain is located in the centre of Piazza Navona and supports an Egyptian obelisk that

36 ITINERARY
TheFontanadeiQuattroFiumi
TODAY ROME IS HOME TO SOME TWO THOUSAND FOUNTAINS THEY REPRESENT A FUNDAMENTAL ELEMENT OF THIS CITY, AS WELL AN IMMENSE ARTISTIC AND CULTURAL HERITAGE
37 ITINERARY
TheFontanadeiQuattroFiumi

At the foot of one of the world’s most celebratedstaircases,theSpanishSteps, is the Fontana della Barcaccia

40 ITINERARY
Fontana della Barcaccia

originates from Circus Maximus.

Both an architectural and sculpture work, the fountain is an example of true Baroque artifice, in its seeming to support the obelisk out of nothing. Four colossal figures represent the great rivers of the Nile, the Ganges, the Danube, and the Rio della Plata. Crowned by the dove of the Holy Spirit – the emblem of Pope Innocent X – it has been interpreted as symbolic of the Church’s triumph in the four corresponding parts of the world. A popular legend speaks of the rivalry between Bernini and Borromini, holding that the

AT THE FOOT OF THE SPANISH STEPS IS THE FONTANA DELLA BARCACCIA

raised arm of the statue of the Rio della Plata is meant to protect against the possible collapse of the bell tower or the dome of the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone (by Borromini); and that the statue of the Nile covers its face in order to not see it. In reality this is a historical anachronism, since the

fountain was completed in 1651, while the Sant’Agnese in Agone church was begun by Borromini in 1652.

It is also said that construction costs were so great that the pope made use of the bread tax to finance it, igniting the ire of the Roman people. Anecdotes and popular traditions aside, the Bernini fountain so impressed the pope that it was to become the first in a series of even more impressive works.

It is still there today, enchanting visitors from around the world in its magnificent and extraordinary se ing, Piazza Navona.

41 ITINERARY
In the centre of Piazza Farnese aretwomagnificentfountains

Oneofthelargestandmostpopular parksinthecityisVillaBorghese (ph.ValentinaStefanelli)

GREEN VIBES

Among the smells of the most beautiful gardens in Rome

When we think of Rome, we always imagine the grandeur of these majestic monuments that have fascinated tourists from all over the world for years, and forget about these wonderful green hidden corners, real havens of tranquillity, which are hardly known around the Eternal city. From the most popular ones to the least known, the capital is full of gardens, pergolas, rose bushes and breathtaking labyrinths, revealing the other part of the city as the most romantic and secretive. One of the largest and most popular parks in the city is Villa Borghese. Spanning over 80 hectares where English-style lawns intersperse with Italian gardens featuring villas, fountains, ponds, statues and splendid monuments make this one of the most admired and appreciated destinations for tourists. You can enjoy pleasant walks

GREEN HIDDEN HAVENS

surrounded by greenery, but also visit museums and admire beautiful pieces of art preserved there. Going towards the westernmost part of Villa Borghese, you will find the Pincio, a majestic public park designed by Giuseppe Valadier in 1834. It is famous for its extraordinary panorama which can be admired from the terrace and the famous “Passeggiata”, a unique and delightful itinerary. Instead, in the 7800 square metres district of Ripa on the Aventine hill, there is a magical garden, it almost looks like a fairytale garden, also known as the garden of lovers. It is the Savello park or Giardino degli Aranci, which once belonged to the Dominican friars. A place where time has stood still, from where you can admire one of the most beautiful sunsets in the city. Moving on a li le, we can find a real gem. The Order of Malta has had in its possession since 1400

WONDERFUL OF TRANQUILLITY

the wonderful Magistral Villa, close to the palace of the same name, overlooking the Emporium on the Tiber. The villa houses the headquarters of the Grand Priory of Rome and the Embassy of the Sovereign Order in Italian territory.

A beautiful area, and even more magical for its famous Keyhole, which from the entrance door allows you to get a perfect view of the Dome of St. Peter surrounded by the laurel-lined avenue. Just steps away from the Gianicolo, a very pleas-

44 GARDENS
FROM THE MOST POPULAR ONES TO THE LEAST KNOWN, THE CAPITAL IS FULL OF GARDENS, PERGOLAS AND PARKS

GiardinodegliAranci,fromwhere youcanadmireoneofthemost beautifulsunsetsinthecity (ph.ValentinaStefanelli)

45
GARDENS

Spanningover80hectares, VillaBorgheseisoneofthemost admiredandappreciated destinations for tourists (ph.ValentinaStefanelli)

XX
ThesplendidPalazzoFirenze

ThefamousKeyhole,whichfrom theentrancedoorallowsyoutoget aperfectviewoftheDomeofSt. Petersurroundedbythelaurel-lined avenue(ph.DanieleFregonse)

49 GARDENS

ant place to walk, we can find the magnificent pine forest of Villa Doria Pamphilj. Once a country estate which belonged to the noble Roman family of the same name, it is now the largest villa within the city with lawns, woods and beautiful fountains. It is a perfect place to enjoy sports, have a rest and walk. It was due to its dense vegetation that it was nicknamed Bel Respiro (a nice breath of fresh air). It is impossible to talk about the most beautiful gardens in Rome without mentioning the Vatican Gardens, these li le treasures are surrounded by a magnificent array of plants, trees,

THE COLOURS OF NATURE ALLOW TOURISTS TO ENJOY A UNIQUE SPECTACLE

flowers and shrubs from all over the world which create a real kaleidoscope of colours and scents.

The splendid art pieces combined with the colours of nature allow tourists to enjoy a unique spectacle that makes their visit even more creative and engaging. Nestled between Piazza

Santi Apostoli, Piazza della Pillo a and Via 24 Maggio, Palazzo Colonna occupies an area of almost one hectare making this the largest noble palace in the city. In Baroque style and perfectly preserved, the palace houses the magnificent Galleria Colonna and hidden among this is one of the most beautiful secretive gardens in the city, the Colonna Garden on the Quirinal hill: a visit here is a must. Also in the heart of the historic centre, we can find the splendid Palazzo Firenze, which between the end of 1500 and the beginning of 1600 represented one of the hubs of the city’s social life,

50 GARDENS
TheVaticanGardens(ph.JoanneBergamin)

TheVaticanGardens,littletreasures aresurroundedbyamagnificent arrayofplants,trees,flowers and shrubs from all over the world (ph.JoanneBergamin)

and Cardinal Ferdinando I de’ Medici organised parties and banquets there. Today, it houses the ‘Dante Alighieri’ Italian school and a sixteenth-century garden, restored to its original splendour. And last but not least, the former residence of Christina of Sweden located within the park of Villa Corsini with a part of it dedicated to the archaeological area Horti Getae. Here we can find the Botanical Garden, one of the largest in Italy, which contains natural varieties from all over the world. The Botanical Garden also features a Japanese Garden with cherry trees, camellias and magnolias along with

THE BOTANICAL GARDEN ALSO FEATURES A JAPANESE GARDEN WITH CHERRY TREES, CAMELLIAS AND MAGNOLIAS ALONG WITH TWO BEAUTIFUL LAKES

two beautiful lakes. A hidden corner of Rome not to be missed by those who are passionate about Japan.there. Today, it houses the ‘Dante

Alighieri’ Italian school and a sixteenth-century garden, restored to its original splendour. And last but not least, the former residence of Christina of Sweden located within the park of Villa Corsini with a part of it dedicated to the archaeological area Horti Getae. Here we can find the Botanical Garden, one of the largest in Italy, which contains natural varieties from all over the world. The Botanical Garden also features a Japanese Garden with cherry trees, camellias and magnolias along with two beautiful lakes. A hidden corner of Rome not to be missed by those who are passionate about Japan.

52 GARDENS XX
BotanicalGarden,oneofthelargestinItaly (ph.ValentinaStefanelli)
53 GARDENS
Botanical Garden (ph.ValentinaStefanelli)

THE CULT ROMAN DISH

Where to try the best Cacio e Pepe in the city

PHOTO Dario Garofalo

THE ORIGINAL RECIPE CALLS FOR JUST A FEW

CAREFULLY-SELECTED INGREDIENTS, LIKE LOCAL AGED SHEEP’S CHEESE

You can’t say you know Rome without having first tasted Cacio e Pepe; it would be like visiting the capital and forge ing the Colosseum! A dish that bears all the elements of traditional Roman povera cuisine, it’s found in many varieties (spaghe i, tonnarelli and rigatoni) and is subject to many surprising interpretations.

As you’ll recall, Rome’s first restaurateurs came from families of shepherds from the mountains in Abruzzo in central Italy. During transhumance,the shepherds, being away

THE DISH CONSERVES THE WORKINGCLASS SOUL OF THE CITY

for a long time, brought with them in their saddlebags high-calorie foods that kept for lengthy periods, like dry, hand-made pasta, pepper and aged sheep’s cheese, to make the distance from home less painful. This dish was later transformed in Roman restaurants from something modest into a typical and refined recipe

of tradition. The original recipe calls for just a few carefully-selected ingredients, like local aged sheep’s cheese (today a D.O.P. product). The secret to cacio e pepe, aside from the quality of the products, is in the chef’s ability to cook the ingredients until they’re sufficiently creamy without needing to use oil, bu er and cream. The preparation method varies in every restaurant, but it’s mandatory to try it because, in addition to goodness, the dish conserves the working-class soul of the city and the simplicity of Romans.

FOOD 56

Thesecrettocacioepepeiscook theingredientsuntilthey’resufficientlycreamy withoutneedingtouseoil,butterandcream

FELICE A TESTACCIO

It’s been an institution of Roman cuisine since 1936. The menu hasn’t changed since, and there’s a traditional dish for every day of the week. The tonnarelli cacio e pepe, finished tableside, are to die for (Via Mastro Giorgio, 29).

TRATTORIA SORA LELLA

Before becoming a much-loved actress, Sora Lella - aka Elena Fabbrizi - was a Roman cook in the most authentic style. Having opened a tra oria in Campo de’ Fiori, she then launched a restaurant under her own name, where you can still enjoy typical food and versions of traditional recipes. The cacio e pepe here is served with delicious ravioli filled with rico a and spinach (Via di Ponte Qua ro Capi, 16).

TAVERNA TRILUSSA

The most authentic of Roman home cooking since 1910. The first courses include the outstanding and beautiful- ly made tonnarelli cacio e pepe, served in a frying pan to evoke the sim- plicity of good old-fash- ioned Roman food (Via del Politeama, 23).

ANTICA PESA

Tradition remains central at the Panella family’s restaurant. Cacio e pepe is served with spaghe i cooked al dente, Pecorino Romano DOP and freshly ground pepper. The deliciously creamy result is a historic dish that just has to be tried (Via Garibaldi, 18).

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LA TERRAZZA - HOTEL EDEN

At Hotel Eden’s La Terrazza, chef Fabio Ciervo turns cacio e pepe into a taste of Madagascar. The traditional Roman dish is reinvented and intensified with fresh, slightly floral pink pepper, transforming it into an all-round sensory experience (Via Ludovisi, 49).

ARMANDO AL PANTHEON

The cacio e pepe at Armando al Pantheon is creamy, delicate and balanced, and has become a benchmark in the capital. No tonnarelli, but spaghe one from Martelli, cooked very al dente and emulsified with olive oil and cooking water. The only cheese used is 100% Pecorino

Romano DOP (Salita de’ Crescenzi, 31).

PIERLUIGI

Tradition meets fine dining at Ristorante Pierluigi in the heart of the Eternal City. There are two versions of cacio e pepe on the menu: one is scialatielli served with octopus, the other features an egg cooked at 65°C and served with Jerusalem artichoke cream and white truffle (Piazza de Ricci, 144).

TRATTORIA DA DANILO

The atmosphere is cosy, intimate and elegant, perfect for a romantic dinner or a business lunch. Here the cacio e pepe is mixed at the table in a cheese wheel. It’s been done this way since 2004, ever since Danilo Valente opened the restau- rant with his mother Lina (Via Petrarca, 13).

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FOOD

Oneofthemostsoughtafterandpopular destinations on the Lazio coast

THE ROMAN SUMMER

A wonderful journey between Sabaudia and the Circeo

TEXT Veronica Sgaravatti PHOTO Valentina Stefanelli
OUTSIDE THE CITY
1. Oasi di Kufra 2. Sabaudia beach 3.Saporetti beach establishment 4. Torre Paola
2 3
5. Lake Paola
1
4 5

In summer, when the asphalt is melting underfoot, frazzled Romans head out of the city at the weekend and whenever else they can, desperate for a cool swim in the sea and a bit of relaxation away from the city’s chaotic traffic. One of the most sought-a er and popular destinations on the Lazio coast is the area between Sabaudia and the Circeo. For those not keen on Ostia or Fregene, in fact, just 90 kilometers from the city center along the Pontina towards Latina is Sabaudia, from the beaches of which you can admire the Circeo promontory. There are plenty of reasons for going - the long beach with its white dunes, a beautifully clear sea, the proximity of the islands of Ponza, Palmarola, and Ventolene, but also trips to nearby Lake Paola and a wealth of sporting activ-

PERIMETER OF 20KM AND AN AVERAGE

OF 4–4.5 METERS

TAKE A TRIP TO LAKE PAOLA. DEPTH

ities. In the area there are sailing, riding, and rowing clubs, facilities for tennis and paddle tennis, minigolf, surfing, and kitesurfing, and various places where you can hire bikes and cycle around the Parco Nazionale del Circeo, stopping to admire concealed birds and animals that have chosen the area as a stopping-off point.

SABAUDIA

Sabaudia is a small town in the heart of the Agro Pontino, with a shoreline of sandy dunes and a wetland area with lakes. Prevalently flat and once marshy, many a empts were made to reclaim it over the centuries, including by the Roman emperors. But it was only in the 1920s and 30s, under Mussolini, that the whole area was reclaimed and four new towns were built there: Latina, Aprilia, Pomezia, and Sabaudia.

Sabaudia’s downtown is

certainly not the part that a racts the most a ention, but the rationalist buildings evoke the modernity of architecture and encourage us to seek out De Chirico-like metaphysical views in the town’s squares. But what makes Sabaudia a perfect destination for a weekend or a long vacation is the crystal-clear sea, the long, golden beach stretching for over 20 kilometers, the rocky footpaths of the promontory of the Circeo, long bike rides where you can encounter herons and kingfishers, and thousands of years of history linking Lake Sabaudia with memories of long-lost Roman glories.

Sabaudia’s oldest and most famous beach establishment is Sapore i, which is also very popular for an aperitif and dinner, as is another bathing station, Le streghe, and the hotel Oasi di Kufra, which has a beautiful beach, is situat-

65
OUTSIDE THE CITY
66 OUTSIDE THE CITY xx Withasurfaceareaofabout400hectares, youcanexploreLakePaolabycanoe
67 OUTSIDE THE CITY
OUTSIDE THE CITY
1. 2. 4. San Felice Circeo 3.TheportofSanFeliceCirceo, wheremanyRomans keeptheirmotorboats
2 3 4 1 5
5.ThelighthouseoftheCirceo

THE PARCO NAZIONALE

DEL CIRCEO COVERS AROUND

8,500 HECTARES

ed amidst the dunes and is distinguished by its a ention for guests. If you are here for a few days, be sure to take a trip to Lake Paola, owned by the Scalfati family. About 6.7 km long, with a surface area of about 400 hectares, a perimeter of 20 km and an average depth of 4–4.5 meters, you can explore it by canoe or book a visit to Domitian’s Villa, before stopping at the restaurant inside the dockyard, La Cruz.

SAN FELICE CIRCEO

Unlike Sabaudia, which is relatively recent - it was built in 1933 - San Felice Circeo has a very ancient history going all the way back to Neanderthal man, as the many caves present on the southern side of the promontory a est. The caves are a definite must for anyone visiting the Circeo. Some can be reached on foot, along easily marked footpaths; others can only be reached by

sea, while some are totally inaccessible. The coastal towers are also definitely worth visiting. There are six of them, all built to defend the promontory in the course of the sixteenth century. The most famous, and the only one that has retained its original form, is Torre Paola, which is situated at the end of Sabaudia beach, guarding the outlet of the canal flowing out of Lake Paola.

The Parco Nazionale del Circeo, established in 1934, covers around 8,500 hectares and was created to protect a rich patchwork of distinct environments. This has enabled the preservation of a rich biodiversity of coexisting flora and fauna. For accommodations you can choose between a wide range of small B&Bs. Alternatively, the best hotels in the area are Punta Rossa, with its fantastic private beach, and Il Faro. From the Cir-

ceo, if you have a boat, you can head for the port, where many Romans keep their motor boats for convenience and for the vicinity to the beautiful Pontine islands of Zannone, Ponza, Palmarola, Ventotene, Gavi, and Santo Stefano.

Recommended beach establishments are Carrubo and Viva Beach. A trip to the lighthouse is also a must. Beautiful by day and night, from it you can get to the Ba erie or Fortino coves, where you can swim in the open sea. In the evening it is worth taking a stroll in the old town and exploring the narrow alleyways in search of a small restaurant for dinner or an aperitif: amongst others, there is Il Gro ino, a long-established fish restaurant, or trendier places for aperitifs, like Tiki, which has a beautiful terrace and tables outdoors, and the Oversea Pub, which serves good beers.

69 OUTSIDE THE CITY
AdetailoftheSistineChapel, paintedbyMichelangelo

TOP PLACES TO SEE IN ROME

Museums, churches and all the a ractions that you should not miss in city. Reservations are recommended in some museums, ask your ‘Les Clefs D’Or’ concierge

MUSEUMS AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES COLOSSEUM

Designed to hold 50,00075,000 spectators coming to see the fights between gladiators and ferocious animals, the Colosseum is the largest amphitheatre from Antiquity, a symbol of Rome and one of the seven wonders of the world. A water system fed various fountains and allowed for naumachiae, mock naval ba les. Piazza del Colosseo, 1 ph. +39 06 39967700 parcocolosseo.it

Closed: January 1, December 25

FORA AND PALATINO

The Arch of Constantine links the Palatine Hill, adding to the houses of Livia and Augustus, and the Forums built along the Via Sa-

cra and beyond the Arch of Titus, up towards the Capotiline Hill and the Sacred Largo Argentina area, that is reopened and equipped for disabled people.

At the same time, the emperors paid homage to themselves by building their own squares, known as Fori.

Fori Imperiali | Foro Romano

| Palatino: ticket office Piazza della Madonna di Loreto and Via della Salara Vecchia ph. +39 06 39967700 coopculture.it

Closed: January 1, December 25

THE BATHS OF CARACALLA

Inaugurated by Caracalla in 216 CE, they extended for 10 hectares, vaunted a sophisticated water system for its tepidarium, calidarium, frigidarium and two gymnasiums, and included a Mithraeum, the god venerated by young soldiers.

Priceless materials stripped from the structure were recycled to build Santa Maria in Trastevere.

Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, 52 ph. +39 06 39967702 coopculture.it

Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25

CATACOMBS

These underground cemeteries carved into tuff rock were decorated with Christian symbols and located, for reasons of hygiene, outside the city walls. Beginning in the 2nd century, martyrs, Christians and Jews were all buried in them. The most evocative, near the Appian Way, are the catacombs of Domitilla, Lucilla, Callixtus, St. Sebastian and the Ardeatine.

CIRCO MASSIMO

A portion of the area gives us an idea of the original purpose of this stadium, 120 metres wide and 620 metres long, likely the largest structure ever built to stage spectacles and able to seat 250,000 people. It was used for horse races and a market. This is also where the Rape of the Sabine Women occurred. Today, it is a popular place for hosting large events. Via del Circo Massimo ph. +39 06 0608 sovraintendenzaroma.it

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CASTELSANT’ANGELO

The mausoleum of Emperor Hadrian, it later became Castel Sant’Angelo. Thanks to its secret passage connecting it to the Vatican, it was transformed into a fortress and refuge for popes. It was later a prison, barracks and museum. Inside, there are frescoes by Pinturicchio, while the bronze angel was made by Peter Anton von Verschaffelt in 1753.

Lungotevere Castello, 50 ph. +39 06 6819111

castelsantangelo.beniculturali.it

Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25

VATICAN MUSEUMS AND SISTINE CHAPEL

This collection of buildings houses one of the most impressive and visited art museums in the world. Another highlight, in addition to the Gallery of Geographical Maps, is the Pinacoteca, which conserves artworks, including pieces by Leonardo, Gio o, Titian, Reni, Caravaggio and Raphael. The la er’s

masterpiece, however, can be found in Julius II’s apartments, today known as the Raphael Rooms. Near there is the Pauline Chapel, which conserves frescoes by Michelangelo, and the Sistine Chapel. The walls were frescoed by Bo icelli, Perugino and Signorelli, while the ceiling is Michelangelo’s triumphant. On the wall behind the altar, Last Judgement.

Viale Vaticano ph. +39 06 69884676 museivaticani.va

Closed: Sunday (except for the last of the month), January 1, February 11, March 19, April 22, May 1, June 29, August 14 and 15, November 1, December 25 and 26

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Colosseum,asymbolofRome and one of the seven wonders of the world

GALLERIA BORGHESE

The gallery, adjacent to the villa that dominates the Pincian Hill, is considered the most important museum in the world for its collection of artworks by Bernini and Caravaggio, including the former’s Apollo and Daphne, the la er’s Young Sick Bacchus and The Deposition by Raphael. Piazzale Scipione Borghese, 5 ph. + 39 06 8413979

galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it

Closed: January 1, December 25

MUSEI CAPITOLINI

Housed inside Palazzo dei Conservatori and Palazzo Nuovo, in the piazza redesigned by Mi-

chelangelo, the museums conserve artworks like the Capitoline Wolf, the original statue of Marcus Aurelius, the Dying Gaul, Bernini’s Medusa and The Fortune Teller by Caravaggio. A section of the museum is now in the Centrale Montemartini. Piazza del Campidoglio, 1 ph. +39 06 0608

museicapitolini.org

Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25

GNAM – GALLERIA NAZIONALE DI ARTE MODERNA

Designed by architect, Cesare Bazzani, the National Gallery houses Italian masterpieces from the 19th and 20th centuries. Divided into two sections, the exhibition space was built for the International Exhibition and showcases works by the Macchiaioli, Futurists (Boccioni and Balla), Chini, Modigliani, Gu uso and De Chirico, as well as Klimt, Monet, Cézanne, Mondrian, Kandinsky.

Viale delle Belle Arti, 131 ph. +39 06 32298221

lagallerianazionale.com

Closed: Monday, January 1, December 25

IL VITTORIANO

Named the Vi orio Emanuele II Monument at its inauguration, it is also known as the Altare della Patria (Altar

TOP PLACES

of the Fatherland) and was built to commemorate Italian liberation. Built like a modern Roman Forum, it houses the Museum of the Risorgimento and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Today, it houses temporary exhibitions and features a large terrace with a view of the city.

Il Vi oriano:

Via di San Pietro in Carcere ph. +39 06 8715111

ilvi oriano.com

Museo centrale del Risorgimento al Vi oriano: Closed Easter, week of August 15, December 25 ; Timetable of temporary exhibitions on the site

PALAZZO BARBERINI AND GALLERIA CORSINI

The galleries housed here showcase artworks including gems like Raphael’s Portrait of a Young Woman and Holbein’s Portrait of Henry VIII, as well as pieces by Van Dyck, Tintore o and Titian. Built by Maderno for Pope Urban VIII, features a salone with Barberini Power by Pietro da Cortona.

Palazzo Barberini:

Via delle Qua ro Fontane, 13 ph. +39 06 4814591

Closed: Monday, January 1, December 25

Galleria Corsini: Via della Lungara, 10 ph. +39 06 68802323

Closed: Tuesday , January 1, December 25

barberinicorsini.org

SCUDERIE

DEL QUIRINALE

Up until 1938 it was used as a stables and carriage house, a er which it housed the Carriage Museum. Built on top of the ruins of the Roman temple of Serapis, the building boasts a view from the highest point of Rome’s historic hills.

The Scuderie was restored by the international architect Gae Aulenti for the Jubilee in 2000 and is today one of the main sites for large exhibitions. Via XXIV Maggio, 16 scuderiequirinale.it Timetable of temporary exhibitions on the site.

GALLERIA

DORIA PAMPHILJ

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj is the biggest palace that still serves as a residence and is home to important private art collections. The gallery features

TOP PLACES 77

works by Titian, Raphael, Caravaggio, Parmigianino, Lorrain, Sebastiano del Piombo, Bronzino and Bernini, as well as Vélazquez’s most famous portrait. The palace apartments and private chapel can be accessed via the gallery. Via del Corso, 305 ph. +39 06 6797323

doriapamphilj.it

Closed: third Wednesday of the month, January 1, Easter, December 25

MAAXI

The museum features art from the 21st century and was built on the site of an old army barracks, the Caserma Montello, near the Auditorium Parco della Musica by Renzo Piano. The interior space is dedicated to international avant-garde movements and the first gallery of Contemporary Architecture. Works on display include pieces by Boe i, De Dominicis, Kapoor, Richter and Ca elan.

Via Guido Reni, 4A ph. +39 06 3201954

maxxi.art

Closed: Monday, May 1, December 25

MUSEO DELL’ARA PACIS

Intended to celebrate peace in Spain and Gaul, the Ara Pacis was consecrated in 9 BCE between via Flaminia and the Mausoleum of Augustus. Decorated with the achievements of Emperor Augustus and portraits of the Giulio-Claudia gens, it has been enclosed in a protective building made of steel and marble designed by Meier since 2006.

Lungotevere in Augusta (corner via Tomacelli) ph. +39 06 0608

arapacis.it

Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25

QUIRINALE

The hill, also called Cavallo (horse) because of the statues of the Dioscuri found in the square, has always been the home of powerful people. First the popes from Gregory III to Pius IX, and then Napoleon. It was also the king’s home and finally the residence of the President of the Republic. The majestic walls of the palace

78 TOP PLACES

preserve beautiful tapestries, antique clocks and porcelain, as well as the beautiful elliptical by Mascarino and the staircase of Honour.

Piazza del Quirinale ph. +39 06 3996 7557 palazzo.quirinale.it

MONUMENTS FONTANA DI TREVI

A cross between Baroque and Neoclassicism, the largest fountain in Rome reflects the story of the Augustus-era Aqua Virgo.

It was rebuilt multiple times in Antiquity and enlarged by Bernini but finished only in the late 18th century. Traditional says that if visitors to throw a coin into the fountain, they will return to the city one day.

Piazza di Trevi

SCALINATA TRINITÀ DEI MONTI

Imposing and scenic, its shape narrowing and widening as it climbs, it connects the Church of Trinità dei Monti to piazza di Spagna. A er centuries of development, the stairway was built in 1726 based on a design by the architect Francesco De Sanctis. Its beauty is exalted in the spring, when the flowers are in bloom.

Piazza di Spagna

COLONNA TRAIANA

Ancient Roman at its finest, it is the first coclide column, erected in 113 to celebrate the victory over Dacia (today Romania), with scenes from the war depicted across a spiral, chronological frieze. Forty metres tall, it conserves the ashes of Trajan and is located in what was Trajan’s Forum. Sixtus V replaced the statue at the top with one of St. Peter.

Via dei Fori Imperiali

TEATRO MARCELLO

Begun by Caesar and located between the Tiber and the Capitoline Hill, it was completed and enlarged by Augustus. In the Middle Ages, it was used for houses and workshops. Restored in the 1920s, it is one of the few and oldest theatres remaining, and over the centuries, it has been used as a model for theatres and amphitheatres. Via del Teatro di Marcello COLONNA

DI MARCO AURELIO

It’s located opposite Palazzo Chigi, in the exact spot where it was erected by Commodus in 190 to celebrate the victories of his father Marcus

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Theemperorspaidhomage tothemselvesbybuilding theirownsquares,knownasFori

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Aurelius over the Germanic people. Forty metres tall, the frieze winds for 110 metres and was inspired by Trajan’s Column. In 1589, Sixtus V replaced the Roman statue on top with an effigy of St. Paul.

Piazza Colonna

ARCO DI COSTANTINO

With its three arches, it is the largest triumphal arch in Rome and symbolically inaugurates via dei Fori. The Senate dedicated it to Emperor Constantine in 315. Recent studies have dated it to the era of Hadrian, however. The decorations show a variety of styles, from classical to medieval: a veritable open-air “museum”.

PYRAMID OF CAIUS CESTIUS

Gaius Cestius wrote in his will that the tomb must be built in only 330 days, lest his heirs be excluded from his rich pat-

rimony. Erected out in 18 BCE and 36 metres tall, it was covered in marble and inspired by the Pyramids of Giza. Via Raffaele Persiche i

CHURCHES

BASILICA DI SAN PIETRO IN VATICANO

St. Peter’s Basilica is the most fascinating place in the world. In addition to

priceless relics and interesting tombs, there are many masterpieces inside St. Peter’s, including the Pietà, sculpted and signed by young Michelangelo, and the lavish canopy by Bernini. The bronze statue of the saint is by Arnolfo di Cambio, while the towering round dome is by Michelangelo, who was inspired by Brunelleschi’s dome in Florence.

Piazza San Pietro vatican.va

ARCIBASILICA DI SAN GIOVANNI IN LATERANO

This is the city’s cathedral and the first of the four papal basilicas. Built by Constantine following the First Council of Nicaea in 325, this is where Pope Boniface VIII announced the first Jubilee in 1300. The Constantine-era mosaics, Cosmatesque floor and ciborium remain, while the incredible “rooms of light” by Borromini can still be seen today.

Piazza di S. Giovanni in Laterano, 4 vatican.va

BASILICA DI SAN PAOLO FUORI LE MURA

This was the cemetery where St. Paul was buried. The church, built by Constantine, is one of the four papal basilicas, the second largest a er St. Peter’s and also called Ostiense.

Vaunting an imposing colon-

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nade, it was destroyed by a fire and rebuilt as it was. The ciborium by Arnolfo di Cambio is priceless, while the mosaic portraits of all the popes is a rare masterpiece.

Piazzale San Paolo, 1 basilicasanpaolo.org

BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE

The church, one of the four papal basilicas, maintains its original early-Christian structure and was built in the 4th century on the spot where snow is said to have fallen in the summer (commemorated every August 5). Inside also to the oldest Nativity, by Arnolfo di Cambio.

Piazza di S. Maria Maggiore, 42 vatican.va

PANTHEON BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA AD MARTYRES

Dedicated to all the gods by general Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa, it was later rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian. It is almost a perfect sphere, 43 metres in diameter and vaunting a concrete dome with an oculus.

In addition to Raphael, Annibale Carracci, Perin del Vaga, Margherita di Savoia and kings Umberto I and Vi orio Emanuele II are all buried here.

Piazza della Rotonda pantheonroma.com

Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25

BASILICA DEI SANTI COSMA E DAMIANO

The basilica is of the first churches built atop ancient buildings, in this case the Forum of Vespasian and the Temple of Romulus, both still visible. The apse contains a 6th-century mosaic depicting Saints Peter and Paul Presenting Cosmas, Damian, Theodorus, and Pope Felix IV to Christ. The 18th-century Nativity, which sets the scene in Rome, is worth a look.

Via dei Fori Imperiali, 1 cosmadamiano.com

TOP PLACES 83

BASILICA DI SAN CLEMENTE

One church atop another between Esquiline and Caelian hills: the first was transformed from an earlier mithraeum built on top of Roman houses. The second (4th century), conserves frescoes dedicated to St. Alexius. In the upper basilica (12th century), frescoes by Masolino dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria.

Via Labicana, 95 basilicasanclemente.com

BASILICA DI SAN PIETRO IN VINCOLI

Nothing remains of the 5th century church, the Baths of Titus and the Neronian domus. Julius II is buried here, whose tomb was designed by Michelangelo and vaunts his imposing Moses. According to tradition, the church conserves some of the chains that bound St. Peter in the nearby Mamertine Prison, the oldest in Rome.

Piazza di San Pietro in Vicoli

BASILICA DI SANTA

MARIA DEGLI ANGELI

E DEI MARTIRI

Built by Michelangelo, who recovered the building without destroying the Frigidarium

from the Baths of Diocletian, this church is where official state ceremonies are held. It was completed by Giacomo del Duca and restored by Luigi Vanvitelli. Amongst the works of art conserved here, a modern Igor Mitoraj and a sundial built for the Jubilee.

Piazza della Repubblica

santamariadegliangeliroma.it Closed on Saturdays

BASILICA

DI SANTA MARIA DEL POPOLO

Built in 1099 with funds offered by the community (popolo in Italian, inspiring the church’s name), it was altered by Maderno, Raphael, Bramante and Bernini, and is decorated with masterpieces like the Crucifixion of St.

Peter and the Conversion of St. Paul by Caravaggio in the transept. The Chigi Chapel is splendid, designed by Raphael and restored by Bernini.

Piazza del Popolo, 12 smariadelpopolo.com

BASILICA

DI SANTA MARIA IN TRASTEVERE

It is the oldest church dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

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It is said that the church was built where oil miraculously erupted from the ground. Rebuilt in the 12th century with materials taken from the Baths of Caracalla, it conserves a triumph of 13th-century mosaics, many of which are by Pietro Cavallini, as well as the historic Madonna Theotókos.

Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere

CHIESA DEL GESÙ

It is perhaps the first church built during the Counter-Reformation and was a model for all those that came later. Vaunting a single nave and a barrel vault, the church has a large side pulpit and a central altar. Desired by Ignatius of Loyola (with his breathtaking revolving altarpiece), it is also the mother church of the

Society of Jesus. Via degli Astalli, 16 chiesadelgesu.org

CHIESA DI SAN LUIGI DEI FRANCESI

The church was completed in 1587 thanks to Catherine de’ Medici. The French church in Rome is famous for its paintings by Caravaggio, in the Contarelli Chapel, dedicated to St. Ma hew with The Calling, The Inspiration and The Martyrdom.

The church also conserves frescoes by Domenichino and a copy of Raphael’s Saint Cecilia by Guido Reni.

Piazza di S. Luigi de’ Francesi saintlouis-rome.net

CHIESA DI SAN PIETRO IN MONTORIO

It is famous for the Tempie o designed by Bramante. Legend says that St. Peter was martyred here, and Beatrice Cenci has been buried here since her execution in 1599. The Tempie o was commissioned by the Spanish king Ferdinand II of Aragon in the early 16th century to dissolve a vow. Today, the former convent houses the Royal Spanish Academy.

Piazza S. Pietro in Mortorio, 2 sanpietroinmontorio.it

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ChiesadiSant’AgneseinAgone, thechurchisamasterpiece ofBaroquearchitecture

CHIESA DI SANT’AGNESE IN AGONE

Built atop the Stadium of Domitian, the church is a masterpiece of Baroque architecture, replete with optical illusions. Built according to a Greek-cross plan, it was redesigned by Borromini, who created a concave façade and separated the two bell towers, making it appear as if

it were larger. Today, it is also an elegant venue for sacred music concerts.

Piazza Navona corner Via S.Maria dell’Anima, 30/A santagneseinagone.org

CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA DELLA PACE

Commissioned Sixtus IV following the Pazzi Conspiracy in the hope for a period of peace, the church was altered

in the 17th century by Pietro da Cortona. In the Chigi Chapel designed by Michelangelo, there are paintings by Raphael. The adjacent former convent conserves the Bramante cloister (an exhibition site today); the dome was added in 1524.

Arco della Pace, 5

CHIESA DELLA SANTISSIMA TRINITÀ DEI MONTI

Overlooking the homonymous staircase by Domenico Fontana, the church vaunts a façade with two bell. Its style is between Baroque and Rococo. Inside frescoes by Daniela da Volterra, including a portrait of Michelangelo and Giovan Ba ista Naldini.

In front of the church stands an obelisk that was in the Gardens of Sallust.

Piazza della Trinità dei Monti, 3

GARDENS AND PARKS

Villa Ada Savoia on via Salaria is one of the largest parks in Rome, while one of the most beautiful parks is the Villa Torlonia in Nomentano whith lakes and gro os, ex residence of Mussolini. Located in near the ancient Appian Way, the Aqueduct Park The Rose Garden, at the base of the Palatine hill, is a must-see in the spring, while the Villa Borghese is a great classic.

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PALACES

Many palaces are still inhabited by the same families who built them centuries ago, while others have become museums, embassies, government offices. But all of them are tied to the fortunes of popes who rebuilt the city beginning in the 15th century.

From the Visconti to the Orsini, the Corsini to the Colonna to the Borgia, Piccolomini, Della Rovere, Farnese, Medici, Carafa, Borghese, Barberini, Pamphilj, Chigi and Rospigliosi, each family le an enduring mark on the city. There’s Palazzo Doria Pamphilj on the busy via del Corso, decorated in the Baroque style and vaunting loggias and courtyards elegantly frescoed. Palazzo Spada in piazza Capodiferro

is also impressive. Cardinal Bernardino commissioned its construction by Borromini, the man behind the famous Galleria Prospe ica. Since 1927, the building has housed the Council of State. Palazzo Farnese is nearby, in the homonymous piazza decorated with two Egyptian, granite tubs from the Baths of Caracalla. The palazzo, granted to France in 1939 for 99 years, it now serves as the French embassy and is open to the public on July 14. Palazzo Chigi in piazza Colonna was instead intended as a place to host elite parties. Bought by the Chigi family in the mid-17th century, it became the seat of the Austrian embassy in 1917, followed by the headquarters of the Ministry of the Colonies under Mussolini, then the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and, lastly, the Council of Ministers

since 1961. The nearby Palazzo Montecitorio has been the seat of the Chamber of Deputies since 1870. Palazzo Madama is seat of the Italian Senate since 1871, it was the Medici’s Roman residence until Cardinal Ferdinando bought Villa Medici on the Pincian Hill.

The villa is currently home to the French Academy in Rome. Palazzo del Quirinale was a papal residence and since 1946 it has been the official residence of the President of the Italian Republic. The Versailles-style 18th-century Palazzo Colonna is nearby, in piazza Santi Apostoli. Assigned to the university by Pope Eugene IV, the Renaissance Palazzo della Sapienza was later modified by Francesco Borromini, who added the Church of Sant’Ivo. The building houses the State Archives today.

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(ph.ValentinaStefanelli)

FOOD EXPERIENCES

The best restaurants in Rome. Reservation recommended, the ‘Les Clefs D’Or’ concierge is at your service

RESTAURANTS

ACHILLI AL PARLAMENTO

Via Prefetti, 15 ph. +39 06 6873446 achilli.restaurant

ACQUOLINA

Via del Vantaggio, 14 ph +39 06 3201590 acquolinaristorante.it

ALLEGRIO

Via Vittorio Veneto, 114 ph. +39 06 4554 3423 allegrio.com

ANTICA PESA

Via Garibaldi, 18 ph +39 06 5809236 anticapesa.it

ARMANDO AL PANTHEON

Salita dei Crescenzi, 31 ph. +39 06 68803034 armandoalpantheon.it

AROMA

Via Labicana, 125 ph +39 06 97615109 aromarestaurant.it

BIVIUM RESTAURANT-CAFÉ-BAR

Piazza di San Marcello ph. +39 06 86814000 sixsenses.com

BUBI’S

Via Giovanni V. Gravina, 7 ph +39 06 32600510 bubis.it

DAL BOLOGNESE

piazza del Popolo, 1 Ph. +39 06 3222799 roma.dalbolognese.it

ENOTECA LA TORRE

Lungotevere delle Armi, 22 ph. +39 06 45668304 enotecalatorreroma.com

FELICE A TESTACCIO

Via Mastro Giorgio, 29 ph +39 06 5746800

feliceatestaccio.com

GIANO RESTAURANT

Via Liguria, 28 ph. 06 894121

gianorestaurant.com

HOSTARIA DA PIETRO

Via Gesu e Maria, 18 ph +39 06 3208816

hostariadapietro.it

IL RISTORANTE - NIKO ROMITO

Via di Ripetta, 73 ph +39 06 36080410

bulgarihotels.com

I SOFÀ BAR RESTAURANT & ROOF TERRACE

Via Giulia, 62 ph. +39 06 68661846

isofa.it

IL PAGLIACCIO

Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 129/A ph +39 06 68809595

ristoranteilpagliaccio.com

J.K. CAFE

Via di Monte d’Oro, 30 ph +39 06 982634

jkroma.com

LA PERGOLA

Via Alberto Cadlolo, 101 ph +39 06 35092152

romecavalieri.com

LA PIGNA

Piazza della Pigna, 45 ph +39 06 6785555

lapignaroma.it

RESTAURANTS 92

LA TERRAZZA

Via Ludovisi, 49 ph. +39 06 47812752 dorchestercollection.com

LE JARDIN DE RUSSIE

Via del Babuino, 9 ph +39 06 32888870

roccofortehotels.com

LUMEN COCKTAILS & CUISINE

Via Orlando V. Emanuele, 3 ph +39 06 47092740 marriott.it

MOSAICO

Via Sistina, 69 ph. + 39 06 97793712

roccofortehotels.com

OSTERIA DEL SOSTEGNO

Via delle Colonnelle, 5 ph. +39 06 6793842

ilsostegno.it

PACIFICO

Lungotevere Arnaldo da Brescia, 2

ph. +39 06 3207042

palazzodama.com

PIANOSTRADA

Via delle Zoccolette, 22 ph. +39 06 89572296

PIERLUIGI

Piazza Dè Ricci, 144 ph +39 06 6868717 pierluigi.it

RHINOCEROS LE RESTAU & ROOFBAR

Via del Velabro, 9 ph. +39 06 6798902 rhinocerosroma.com

SALUMERIA ROSCIOLI

Via dei Giubbonari, 21 ph +39 06 6875287 salumeriaroscioli.it

SORA LELLA

Via di Ponte Quattro Capi, 16 ph +39 06 6861601

trattoriasoralella.it

TAVERNA TRILUSSA

Via del Politeama, 23/25

ph +39 06 5818918

tavernatrilussa.com

TERRAZZA BORROMINI

Via di Santa Maria dell’Anima, 30 ph. +39 06 68215459

terrazzaborromini.com

TRATTORIA DA DANILO

Via Petrarca, 13 ph +39 06 77200111

www.trattoriadadanilo.com

TULLIO

Via di S. Nicola da Tolentino, 26 ph +39 06 4745560 tullioristorante.it

VITTI IL RISTORANTE

BY CHRISTIAN SPALVIERI

Via Marianna Dionigi, 62 ph. +39 389 5656992 vitti.it

ZIA

Via Goffredo Mameli, 45 ph. +39 06 2348 8093

ziarestaurant.com

ZUMA

Palazzo Fendi

Via della Fontanella di Borghese, 48 ph. +39 06 99266622

zumarestaurant.com

RESTAURANTS 93

INFORMATION

GETTING AROUND IN ROME AND THE SURROUNDING AREA

Everything you need to know to move in the city and further afield

TAXI E UBER

Rome’s taxis can be booked by calling +39 06 0609, Free Now app or you can catch one at the taxi stand.

Starting price from 6:00 to 22:00 on weekdays: €3,00.

Starting price from 6:00 to 22:00, weekends and holidays: €5,00.

Starting price at night from 22:00 to 6:00: €7,00.

Fixed rate from Rome city center to Fiumicino airport: €50,00. Fixed rate from Rome city center to Ciampino airport: €31,00. Rome is also covered by Uber service with cars bookable through the Uber app.

CAR SHARING

The simple, sustainable shared vehicle solution. To access the service you need

to register with operators and download the Car Sharing Roma app. The fleets of vehicles include hybrid and electric options.

CITY BIKE AND SCOOTERS

In Rome it’s quick and easy to hire a shared bicycle or scooter: just choose an operator, download the app and follow the instructions to

register and activate the service. To hire bikes or scooters, choose one of the three operators Lime, Do and Bird (until 2026). They can also be booked via the Uber app.

BUS

Rome boasts a total of 379 bus lines (including 29 night buses). The night buses replace the metro when it’s closed, and are essential for ge ing around the city a er midnight.

Urban lines (U) operate from 5:00 or 6:30, and the service ends at midnight. Night buses (N): operate when the metro is closed, between 00:00 and 5:00 or 6:00. Bus tickets (like

94
INFORMATIONS

DISTANCE FROM ROME TO:

metro tickets) can be bought at metro stations, tobacco shops or newspaper kiosks, or on the ATAC ROMA app. A standard ticket is valid for 100 minutes from stamping, and covers one journey on ATAC public transport. The price is € 1.50. There are also day tickets (€ 7.00), 2-day tickets (€12.50), 3-day tickets (€18.00) and other options.

METRO

The metro is an alternative way to move around the city. There are 4 lines: A (Anagnina-Ba istini), B (Laurentina-Rebibbia), B1 (Laurentina-Jonio) and C

(Pantano-San Giovanni), and trains run at the weekends too.

From Sunday to Thursday, the first train is at 5:30 and the last at 23:30; on Friday and Saturday the first is at 5:30 and the last at 1:30. In August 2023, line A is partially closed for refurbishment.

TRAIN

Rome has 71 railway stations. The main one is Roma Termini in the city centre, Italy’s most important railway hub. The second-largest in terms of passenger numbers is Roma Tiburtina. Both are served by high-speed connections to the main Italian destinations. To reach the centre of Rome from Tiburtina, take the blue metro line B and get off at Colosseum.

AIRPORTS

Fiumicino international airport (IATA code FCO) is the largest of Rome’s airports. It is located 32 kilometres from the capital, and connected to Roma Termini by the Leonardo Express train and numerous shu le bus services.

Ciampino airport is mainly used by low-cost airlines, and is 17 kilometres from the centre.

INFORMATIONS 95
CAPALBIO 130 KM CAPRI 270 KM CIAMPINO 17 KM FIRENZE 280 KM FIUMICINO 30 KM FREGENE 40 KM NAPOLI 225 KM PORTO ERCOLE 150 KM SABAUDIA 95 KM SPERLONGA 150 KM
ROMA FREGENE VATICAN CITY FIUMICINO FROSINONE VITERBO RIETI LATINA SABAUDIA SPERLONGA

HOTELS

ALEPH ROME HOTEL, CURIO COLLECTION BY HILTON

Via di S. Basilio, 15 ph. +39 06 422 9001 hilton.com

ANANTARA PALAZZO NAIADI ROME HOTEL

Piazza della Repubblica, 48-49 ph. +39 06 489 381 anantara.com

BAGLIONI HOTEL REGINA

Via Vi orio Veneto, 72 ph. +39 06 421111 rome.baglionihotels.com

BULGARI HOTEL ROMA

Piazza Augusto Imperatore, 10 ph. +39 06 36080400 www.bulgarihotels.com

GRAND HOTEL PALACE

Via Vi orio Veneto, 70 ph. +39 06 47871 millenniumhotels.com

HOTEL DE RUSSIE

Via del Babbuino, 9 ph. +39 06 328881 roccofortehotels.com

HOTEL DE LA VILLE

Via Sistina, 69 ph. +39 06 977 931 roccofortehotels.com

HOTEL D’INGHILTERRA ROMA STARHOTELS COLLEZIONE

Via Bocca di Leone, 14 ph. +39 06 699811 collezione.starhotels.com

HOTEL HASSLER

Piazza Trinita dei Monti, 6 ph. +39 06 699340 hotelhasslerroma.com

INTERCONTINENTAL ROME

AMBASCIATORI PALACE

Via Vi orio Veneto, 62 ph. +39 06 47493 ihg.com

J.K.PLACE ROMA

Via di Monte d’Oro, 30 ph. +39 06 982 634

jkroma.com

PALAZZO MANFREDI

Via Labicana, 125 ph. +39 06 77591380ù

manfredihotels.com

PALAZZO RIPETTA

Via di Ripe a, 231 ph. +39 06 3231144

palazzoripe a.com

ROME CAVALIERI, A WALDORF ASTORIA HOTELS

Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 ph. +39 06 35091

romecavalieri.com

SINA BERNINI BRISTOL, AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION

Piazza Barberini, 23 ph. +39 06 488931

sinahotels.com

HOTELS 96
CONCIERGE ‘LES CLEFS D’OR’

SIX SENSES ROME

Piazza di San Marcello ph. +39 06 86814000 sixsenses.com

SOFITEL ROMA

VILLA BORGHESE

Via Lombardia, 47 ph. +39 06 478021 sofitelrome.com

THE ROME EDITION

Salita di S. Nicola da Tolentino, 14 ph. +39 06 45249000 marrio .com

THE ST. REGIS ROME

Via Vi orio Emanuele

Orlando, 3

ph. +39 06 47091 marrio .com

THE WESTIN EXCELSIOR ROMA

Via Vi orio Veneto, 125 ph. +39 06 47081 marrio .com

W ROME

Via Liguria, 26/36

ph. +39 06 894121 marrio .com

FIUME HOTEL

Via Brescia, 6 ph. +39 06 8543000 hotelfiume-roma.com

HOTEL MASCAGNI

Via Vi orio Emanuele Orlando, 90 ph. +39 06 48904040 mascagnicollection.com

HOTEL OXFORD

Via Boncompagni, 89 ph. +39 06 420 3601 hoteloxford.com

THE REGENCY

Via Romagna, 42 ph. +39 06 9468 2000 theregencyrome.it

HOTELS 97
CASTEL CITTA DEL SAN IANIC L VILLA SCIARRA N A V I A L E D E I B A S T I O N I D I M I C H E L A N G E L O V I A L E A N G E L VIALE DELLE MILIZIE PIAZZA DEI QUIRITI RI VIAA DORIA V I A L E O N E I V V I A O T T A V I A N O VIALE GIULIO CESARE VIAGERMANICO VIAPOMPEO MAGNO VIADEI GRACCHI VIACOLADI RIENZO VIALE VATICANO PIAZZA RISORGIMENTO VIA CRESCENZIO PIAZZA CAVOUR VIAPAOLO VI BORGO S SPIRITO VIADEGASPERI VIA DELGIANICOLO STAZIONE SAN PIETRO VIA AURELIA VIA DELLA CONCILIAZIONE Ponte LGTCASTELLO UmbertoPonte LGT.PRATI PIAZZALE FLAMINIO PIAZZA DEL POPOLO LGT .DEIMELLIN LGT.IN AUGUSTA V I A DEL CORSO VIA TOMACELLI V I A D I R I PETTA VIA DEI CORONARI Ponte Principe Savoia CORSOVITTORIOEMANUELEII LGT . SANGALLO LGT .GIANICOLENSE LGT . FARNESINA Ponte Mazzini LGTDEITEBALDI LGT . RAFFAELLOSANZIO PonteSisto VIAGARIBALDI V I A D E L L E F O R N A C I VIADI SAN PANCRAZIO VIA AURELIA ANTICA VILLA DORIA PAMPHILJ PIAZZA S.M. IN TRASTEVERE VIALETRASTEVERE PIAZZA DI PORTA PORTESE PIAZZA VIA DELLA LUNGARETTA LGT D . ANGUILLARA Ponte ISOLA TIBERINA LGT.RIPA LGT . V I A D I T O R R E A R G E N T I N A V COLONNA C O R S O R I N A S C I M E N T O PIAZZA NAVONA LGT CENCI CAMPO VIA Ponte V I A L E D E I Q U A V I A F E L I P.ZZA ROSOLINO VIA G ROSSETTI Ponte Nenni Ponte Cavour PonteVittorio Ponte Ponte PIAZZA SAN PIETRO PIAZZALE GARIBALDI LGT.AVENTINO LGT.TESTACCIO LGT.PORTENSE VIA MARMORATA VIAF.BORGHESE LGT.MARZIO
TERME DI VILLA CIRC MASSIM VILLA VIACONDOTTI PIAZZA TEMPIO DI DIANA VIAGALLIA PIAZZA TUSCOLO LEONI VIADELCIRCOMASSIMO PIAZZA BOCCA DELLA VERITA VIADEIFORIIMPERIALI VIACAVOUR VIA PANISPERNA BASILICA DI S. MARIA MAGGIORE VIA GIOVANNI LANZA P.ZZA VITTORIO EMANUELE II VIA MERULANA VIALABICANA VIAS GIOVANNIINLATERANO VIA S. STEFANO ROTONDO VIADISANERASMO PIAZZA S. GIOVANNI IN LATERANO VIASANNIO VIA MAGNA GRECIA VIAAPPIANUOVA RE VIA VIALE CARLO FE VIA EMANUELE FILIBERTO VIADIS.CROCEINGERUSA VIACARLOALBERTO VIA DIPORTAMAGGIORE VIAGIOVANNIGIOLITTI VIAFILIPPOTURATI VIAGIOBERTI VIACAVOUR VIANAZIONALE VIADEPRETIS FONTANA DI TREVI VIADELQUIRINALE VIADELTRITONE V I A XX I V GGAM I O DI PLEBISCITO PIAZZA VENEZIA VIAIV NOVEMBRE V I A DEL CORSO PIAZZA COLONNA VIASISTINA VIA LOMBARDIA VIAVITTORIO V OTENE VIAL . BISSOLATI VIAXXSETTEMBRE PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA PIAZZA DEL CINQUECENTO PIAZZA INDIPENDENZA STAZIONE TERMINI VIAPALESTRO R I A VIASALLUSTIANA VIA BONCOMPAGNI VIA SICILIA VIA SARDEGNA CORSO D ITALIA VIAPINCIANA PIAZZA FIUME VIAALESSANDRIA PIAZZALE DI PORTA PIA PIAZZA GALENO VIANOMENTA ERITA VIA M VIALE DEL POLICLINICO V I ALE DEL CASTRO PRETOR I O VIALEDELLU VIAMARSALA PIAZZA BARBERINI LBABUINOVIAMARGUTTA DEIVIALETRINITA MONTI VIALEAVENTINO VIALE VIADRUSO TERMINI
CIRCO MASSIMO
Via Belsiana 68, 00187, Roma www.malo.it

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