Ο Θεατής στον Μεταλλασσόμενο τόπο Δυνατοτήτων των Επιδείξεων Μόδας by GRADreview

Architectural promenade,

The fashion industry from the mid-19th century and onwards held an important place in society, with the Fashion Houses gradually realizing the influence of the spectacular fashion shows and creating scenarios that have the potential to affect the viewer. The configuration of the space where the runway show is taking place, plays an important role in this, as the need for fashion is realized, to be presented through a visual context, in which the observation and the experience of architecture coexist.

This research paper examines how the ‘position’ of the viewer has changed in relation to the changes in the idea of fashion shows and their evolution over time. Focusing on the period from 1990 onwards, a turning point in the history of the catwalk, when fashion shows are transformed into artistic events and no longer aim exclusively at promoting clothes but create narratives commenting on contemporary social issues. The movement and the space contribute to the creation of an event, in which space is perceived in relativity to the cause of which it is created. The planned, or not, activity at the venue is inextricably linked to the performances that take place at the same time, that of the models, the spectators, and the photographers, in order to create an atmosphere that will have an impact on the spectator, thus constituting a different experience. Through the reading of important fashion shows in their socio-political and cultural context, the dialectical relationship of fashion with the society becomes apparent.

Key words: fashion shows, spectator, space, experience, body, tour, catwalk, architecture, Architectural promenade, visual/digital representation

“Fashion is consumed visually. Τhough it is created for wear on the body, it is conceived and given form as a visual exchange”

-Bradley Quinn, The Fashion of Architecture, 2003

0 1 2 3 4 5

1-2

‘Fashion space distances itself from the real’ – Bradley Quinn

1 Bradley Quinn, The Fashion of Architecture (New York: Berg, 2003), 16.

2 Quinn, The Fashion of Architecture

3 Tiziana Ferrero-Regis & Marissa Lindquist, Staging fashion: the fashion show and its spaces (Great Britain: Bloomsbury Publishing Plc, 2021), 2.

4 Quinn, The Fashion of Architecture, 35.

‘People don’t want to see clothes. They want to see something that fuels the imagination.’ - Alexander McQueen

(dressmaker)

- Charles Anastase, “The History of the Fashion show.” Fashionartdaily, Φθινόπωρο 2006, http://fashionartdaily.blogspot.com/2009/11/the-history-of-runway.html#.YcIz5WhByUk

12 Maria M. Margaria, “The Catwalk as an Interior Architectural space: A brief history outlooks”, ResearchGate, Δεκέμβριος 2018, https://www. researchgate.net/publication/329670721_The_Catwalk_as_an_Interior_Architectural_space_A_brief_history_outlooks

13 Caroline Evans, “The Enchanted Spectacle,” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, Volume 5: issue 3 (2001). doi: 10.2752/136270401778960865, 6.

H. Kaplan & Sheila Stowell, Theatre and Fashion: From Oscar Wilde to the Suffragettes (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1994), 119.ω

15 Παπαβασιλείου, “Nervous Sustems”.

16 Maria M. Margaria, “The Catwalk as an Interior Architectural space: A brief history outlooks”, ResearchGate,

2018, https://www. researchgate.net/publication/329670721_The_Catwalk_as_an_Interior_Architectural_space_A_brief_history_outlooks

House of Worth atelier, Παρίσι.

Ο couturier Paul Poiret

Jacques Richepin

Théâtre de

Poiret

couturiers

Poiret

17 ό.π.

“Nervous Sustems”.

19 Evans, “The Enchanted Spectacle”, 2.

21 Παπαβασιλείου, “Nervous Sustems”, 37.

(A spectacle of the most delirious refinement).Nancy J. Troy, “Paul Poiret’s Minaret Style: Originality, Reproduction, and Art in Fashion,” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, Volume 6: issue 2 (2002). doi:10.2752/136270402778869055

Worth.

Paul Poiret, 1925.

27 Caroline Evans, The Mechanical Smile: Modernism and the First Fashion Shows in France and America 1900-1929 (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2013), 11.

28 Maria M. Margaria, “The Catwalk as an Interior Architectural space: A brief history outlooks”, ResearchGate, Δεκέμβριος 2018, https://www. researchgate.net/publication/329670721_The_Catwalk_as_an_Interior_Architectural_space_A_brief_history_outlooks

(speciality lines). - Valerie Mendes & Amy de la Haye, Fashion since 1900 (London: Thames & Hudson Ltd, 2010), 6. 30

Sustems”.

Venus de Milo with Drawers and The Anthropomorphic Cabinet -Salvador Dali.

9-10

35 Palmer White, Elsa Schiaparelli: Empress of Fashion (London: Aurum Press, 1986), 164.

36 Evans, The Mechanical Smile.

37 Maria M. Margaria, “The Catwalk as an Interior Architectural space: A brief history outlooks”, ResearchGate, Δεκέμβριος 2018, https://www. researchgate.net/publication/329670721_The_Catwalk_as_an_Interior_Architectural_space_A_brief_history_outlooks

38 Παπαβασιλείου, “Nervous Sustems”

39 Mendes & De la Haye, Fashion since 1900, 6.

40 Maria M. Margaria, “The Catwalk as an Interior Architectural space: A brief history outlooks”, ResearchGate, Δεκέμβριος 2018, https://www. researchgate.net/publication/329670721_The_Catwalk_as_an_Interior_Architectural_space_A_brief_history_outlooks

1973

Chambre Syndicale du Pret-a-Porter des Couturiers et

43 Mendes & De la Haye, Fashion since 1900, 220.

44 Παπαβασιλείου, “Nervous Sustems”, 93.

45 Evans, “The Enchanted Spectacle”, 35.

Sustems”.

The space

Paris/Interior of Couture Houses/ Decorated as a Prisian domestic interior/ Space of production inside of couture houses/ Enlargment of space as popularity grows/ Use of themes to get attention/ Constructed spaces/ USA/ Department stores/ Elongated catwalk/ Space for performance/ Variety of formats/ The other spaces: clubs, theater, public arena/ Conceptual spaces/ Experimental spaces/ Minimal spaces/ Introduction of the virtual space/ The digital screen as background/ Video as space/

The

action

Present and promote the collection/ Models moving inside of decorated room/ Clothes in movement/ Choreographed bodies/ Performance/ Catwalk/ Represantation/ Artistic fashion show/ Conceptualization/ Construction of desire/ Sensorial speculations/ Production of images/ Production of ephymerality/ Close interaction/ Interconnectivity/ Like/ Share/ Comment/

The

audience

Rich clients/ Buyers/ Idea stealers/ Journalists/ Critics/ Photographers/ Television/ Celebrities/ Historians/ Bloggers/ Fashion journalists/ Web/ Live streaming/ Uninvited guests/ All/ No one/

46 Gustavo Santos, “Constructed Fashion: The Catwalk System as an Architectural Project.” (Ερευνητική

47 Ferrero-Regis & Lindquist, Staging fashion, 85.

48 ό.π.

49 Skov et al. The Fashion Show as an Art Form (Copenhagen: Creative Encounters, 2009).

53 Ferrero-Regis & Lindquist, Staging fashion, 21.

54 ό.π., 115.

55 Quinn, The Fashion of Architecture, 30.

57 Ferrero-Regis & Lindquist, Staging fashion, 21.

Staging a fashion show in a wasteland reveals another layer of social exchanges that can be identified in such heterotopias.

- Bradley Quinn

Bernard Tschumi- Bernard Tscumi & Nigel Coates, The Discourse of Events (London: Architectural Association, 1983), 15.

objects/buildings movements

events

Prada61 “Outdoor/Indoor/Outdoor”

Fondazione Prada,

60 Office for Metropolitan Architecture (OMA),

Ferrero-Regis & Lindquist, Staging fashion, 146.

64 […], and a desert or an indoor playground for the women show […]-ό.π.

65 Ferrero-Regis & Lindquist, Staging fashion, 108.

“[…] AMO investigates natural elements and their relationship to indoors. These encapsulated environments explore new forms of experience of the space and of the show by the audience.” -AMO

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjiiEpMbaO8&ab_channel=Prada

•https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYdqW5mkxgk&ab_channel=Prada 22

Rem Koolhaas.

63 Between a lake, a cave or an indoor pool for the men show […]- (https://www.oma.com/projects/2015-ss-prada-men-women-show-outdoor-indoor-outdoor)

66 […] while a thin line of technical lights marks the perfectly white walls as a horizon […]- (https://www.oma.com/projects/2015-ss-prada-menwomen-show-outdoor-indoor-outdoor)

67 Ferrero-Regis & Lindquist, Staging fashion, 85.

68 Quinn, The Fashion of Architecture, 125.

The metaphor of “skin”: The flesh as the first skin, clothing as the second and architecture as the third

– Ingrid Loschek

‘Clothing defines the intimate zone around the body, architecture a much larger one.’ - Hussein Chalayan

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgG_ vsIpXW4&ab_channel=Chalayan

70 Evans, Fashion at the edge, 288.

71 Mitchell O. Smith, Alison Kubler & Daphne Guiness, Art: Fashion in the 21st Century (London: Thames & Hudson, 2013), 17.

Installation art has been critically recognized as a form apparently more resistant to Benjaminian issues of reproduction, and this, apparently also resistant to commoditisation. Often engaging sound and other senses beyond sight, firsthand experience of an installation ostensibly resists reproduction as an image or textual account. Like the fashion show, it seems to structurally insist on the presence of the viewer at its original presentation […] It is “site-specific”, bound to a certain place at a certain time and thus to a fixed audience of viewers. – Grant Johnson

Hirst

Ferrero-Regis & Lindquist, Staging fashion, 105.

73 Peter Zumthor, Atmospheres (Berlin: Birkhäuser, 2006), 40.

Zumthor:

Bruder Klaus Chapel.»

2017), 25.

75 Ferrero-Regis & Lindquist, Staging fashion, 71.

Juhani Pallasmaa

199977

Alexander McQueen

Givenchy,

McQueen

Paul Delaroche ‘The Execution of Lady Jane Grey’

ο McQueen

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzp06SVyQqY&ab_channel=Scroobily

©Mark McGlynn

Karl Lagerfeld,

80 Santos, “Constructed Fashion: The Catwalk System as an Architectural Project”, 3.

Lagerfeld

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4N1yjZnebDk&ab_channel=LaRitournelle

84 Ferrero-Regis & Lindquist, Staging fashion, 183.

85 Evans, Fashion at the edge, 285.

Chalayan.

‘A form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months’

‘Visuality occurs when gaze meets desire.’

– Bradley Quinn

•https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qynzgm9i4LI&ab_channel=AlexanderMcQueen 33

‘In the staging of this show McQueen oscillated between beauty and horror, turning conventional ideas of beauty upside down.’

-Caroline Evans

90 Barthes, The fashion system, 10.

Katy England.

με θέματα όπως

θάνατος, πτώματα, άτομα με διαφορετικά φυσικά

χα-ρακτηριστικά πάνω τους, που παρουσιάζονται σε

(It is a depiction of an egoless being, a shaman in existence here and beyond).

100 Lexi Manatakis, “Six photographers who helped us visualize the human psyche.” Dazed, 4 Μαρτίου 2019, https://www.dazeddigital.com/ art-photography/article /42924/1/photographers-visualise-human-psyche-joel-peter-witkin-dora-maar-roger-ballen

ARCHITECTURAL PROMENADE

Architecture is experienced as one roams about in it and walks through it…So true is this that architectural works can be divided into dead and living ones depending on whether the law of ‘roaming through’ has not been observed or whether on the contrary it has been brilliantly obeyed.

- Le Corbusier

101 Platform for fashion shows

102 A place to walk

103 The ‘promenade architecturale’ – the observer’s pathway through the built space. – Flora Samuel, Le Corbusier and the Architectural Promenade (Basel: Birkhäuser, 2010)

104 Amanda Ramon, “The Fashion catwalk through the promenade Architecturale.” Somethingfashion, Αύγουστος 2017, http://www.somethingfashion.es/2017/08/fashion-catwalk-architectural-promenade-somethingfashion.html

105 Κατά το έτος 1928

Jan Kenneth Birksted, “Beyond the clichés of the hand-books: Le Corbusier’s architectural promenade,” The Journal of Architecture, Volume 11: issue 1 (2006). doi:10.1080/13602360600636123

σύμφωνα για τον Le Corbusier, η οποία έχει δημοσιευτεί σε άρθρα

Archetype, 14 Ιανουαρίου 2019, https://www.archetype.gr/blog/arthro/to-architektoniko-schedio-os-michanismos-diereunisis-ton-epistimologikon-metallagon-tis-architektonikis

109 ό.π.

110 Birksted, “Beyond the clichés of the hand-books: Le Corbusier’s architectural promenade”.

111 Το 1996 ολοκληρώθηκε η

112 Lauren Crockett, “Loyis Vuitton’s Cruise ’17 Collection Unveiled at Niemeyer’s Niteroi Contemporary Art Museum.” Archdaily, 9 Ιουνίου 2016, https://www.archdaily.com/788715/ lv-cruise-collection-at-niemeyers-niteroi-contemporary-art-museum

113 ‘Brazilian idealism and Rio de Janeiro are the starting point for Cruise 2017. The collection captures the country’s vitality, energy, multi-culturalism, freedom, urban futurism and romanticism — all the dynamic feeling the city inspires. The architect Oscar Niemeyer harmonizes the paradox of civilization versus the natural, while Brazil and its environmental utopia provides the ideal backdrop.’ -Louis Vuitton

114 [...] the building to emerge “from the ground” and “continuously grow and spread.”Oscar Niemeyer

115 Samuel, Le Corbusier and the Architectural Promenade, 162.

116 Παπαβασιλείου, “Nervous Sustems”.

117 Nam Sungtaeg, “[A new spatial grammar for Fashion shows] Hermés: A Zigzag Promenade.” SPACE, Μάιος 2021, https://vmspace.com/eng/report/report_ view.html?base_seq=MTQzMw==)

118 Γάλλος αρχιτέκτονας της Beaux-Arts

119 Samuel, Le Corbusier and the Architectural Promenade.

120 Τοποθετήθηκε ένας διάδρομος

“The promenade would be designed to resentise people to their surroundings, leading ultimately to a realignment with nature.” -Flora Samuel

122 Ferrero-Regis & Lindquist, Staging fashion, 23.

123 Evans, Fashion at the edge, 74

124 Flavia Loscialpo, “From the physical to the digital and back: Fashion exhibitions in the digital age,” International Journal of Fashion Studies, no. 3: issue 2 (2016). doi: 10.1386/ infs.3.2.225_1

125 Santos, “Constructed Fashion: The Catwalk System as an Architectural Project”, 4.

126 “The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction”(https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/

The_Work_of_Art_in_the_Age_of_Mechanical_Reproduction?fbclid=IwAR3I0BNpP1I17CU1mmmjJjlZeUnHZz_b6yJtOmsKvzcOr9bFFwUENmle0u8).

127

128 Evans, Fashion at the edge, 74.

129 Santos, “Constructed Fashion: The Catwalk System as an Architectural Project”, 4.

John Galiano

Margiela

130 […] as a synthetic sunset fixed within a 3-dimensional blank space. - ΑΜΟ

131 AMO (https://www.oma.com/projects/2016-ss-prada-real-fantasies)

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3bGmpHubaHo&ab_ channel=MaisonMargiela

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZHESOq-Gkw

As a medium of artistic production, the moving pictures does not create cult value for the motion picture, itself, because “the audience’s identification with the actor is really an identification with the camera”. Consequently, the audience takes the position of the camera; its approach is that of testing.” Therefore, the film makes the cult value recede into the background, not only by putting the public in the position of the critic, but also by the fact that, at the movies, this [critical] position requires no attention.”

– Walter Benjiamin

AMO PRADA

The explosion of the internet triggered a progressive spectacularization of the fashion show, delivering visually heightened and sensorial experiences.

-Staging the Fashion show

•https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9s62gtr3-0U&ab_channel=Prada

‘First I was really fascinated by film, by cinema, because what is film it is space entered by protagonists, people who move around but acting within a space in such a way that you could say that space was a protagonist.’

-Bernard Tschumi

archetype.gr/blog/arthro/ to-architektoniko-schedio-os-michanismos-diereunisis-ton-epistimologikon-metallagon-tis-architektonikis

Archetype, 14

2019 https://www. archetype.gr/blog/arthro/ to-architektoniko-schedio-os-michanismos-diereunisis-ton-epistimologikon-metallagon-tis-architektonikis

134 ‘First I was really fascinated by film, by cinema, because what is film it is space entered by protagonists, people who move around but acting within a space in such a way that you could say that space was a protagonist.’ -Bernard Tschumi

•https://www.instagram.com/tv/CAhDULhAFvG/?utm_source=ig_embed

135 Natashah Hitti, “Hanifa digitally debuts Pink Label Congo fashion collection using 3D models.” Dezeen, 5

2020, https://www.dezeen.com/2020/06/05/hanifa-pink-label-con

go-fashion-collection-3d-models/

136 Η Anifa Mvuemba

‘Today fashion is establishing itself as a space for both speaking and listening, as an open forum where individual expression can connect with the broadest political issues. It is establishing itself as a vehicle for collective reflecting and a site for protest. Fashion space reframes the way we understand and engage with advertising campaigns, virtual space and retail architecture.’ – Bradley Quinn

Quinn, The Fashion of Architecture,

Barthes, Roland. The fashion system. United States: University of California Press, 1990.

Evans, Caroline. Fashion at the edge: spectacle, modernity and deathliness. London: Yale University Press, 2007.

Evans, Caroline. The Mechanical Smile: Modernism and the First Fashion Shows in France and America 1900-1929 New Haven: Yale University Press, 2013.

Ferrero-Regis, Tiziana & Lindquist, Marissa. Staging fashion: the fashion show and its spaces. Great Britain: Bloomsbury Publishing Plc, 2021.

Kaplan, Joel H. & Stowell, Sheila. Theatre and Fashion: From Oscar Wilde to the Suffragettes. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1994.

Mendes, Valerie & de la Haye, Amy. Fashion since 1900. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd, 2010.

Quinn, Bradley. The Fashion of Architecture. New York: Berg, 2003.

Samuel, Flora. Le Corbusier and the Architectural Promenade. Basel: Birkhäuser, 2010.

Skov, Lise. Skjold, Else. Moeran, Brian. Larsen, Frederik and Csaba, Fabian F. The Fashion Show as an Art Form Copenhagen: Creative Encounters, 2009.

Smith, O. Mitchell. Kubler, Alison & Guiness, Daphne. Art: Fashion in the 21st Century. London: Thames & Hudson, 2013.

Tscumi, Bernard & Coates, Nigel. The Discourse of Events. London: Architectural Association, 1983.

White, Palmer. Elsa Schiaparelli: Empress of Fashion. London: Aurum Press, 1986

Zumthor, Peter. Atmospheres: Architectural Environments. Surrounding Objects. Berlin: Birkhäuser, 2006.

Birksted, J. Kenneth. “Beyond the clichés of the hand-books: Le Corbusier’s architectural promenade.” The Journal of Architecture, Volume 11: issue 1 (2006). doi:10.1080/13602360600636123

Evans, Caroline. “The Enchanted Spectacle.” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, Volume 5: issue 3 (2001). doi:10.2752/136270401778960865

Loscialpo, Flavia. “From the physical to the digital and back: Fashion exhibitions in the digital age.” International Journal of Fashion Studies, no. 3: issue 2 (2016). doi: 10.1386/infs.3.2.225_1

Troy J., Nancy. “Paul Poiret’s Minaret Style: Originality, Reproduction, and Art in Fashion.” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, Volume 6: issue 2 (2002). doi:10.2752/136270402778869055

. “Nervous Systems: Ecologies of the fashion show from the modern to the contemporary era. Introduction to the Guerrilla show.”

ΑΡΘΡΑ ΣΕ RESEARCH BLOGS

Χαριτωνίδου, Μαριάννα. «Το

Archetype, 14 Ιανουαρίου 2019, https://www.archetype.gr/blog/arthro/to-architektoniko-schedio-os-michanismos-diereunisis-ton-epistimologikon-metallagon-tis-architektonikis .

18 Φεβρουαρίου 2022.

Hitti, Natashah. “Hanifa digitally debuts Pink Label Congo fashion collection using 3D models.” Dezeen, 5 Ιουνίου 2020, https://www.dezeen.com/2020/06/05/hanifa-pink-label-congo-fashion-collection-3d-models/ Πρόσβαση στις 18/2/2022.

Margaria M., Maria. “The Catwalk as an Interior Architectural space: A brief history outlooks.” ResearchGate, Δεκέμβριος 2018, https://www.researchgate.net/publication/329670721_The_Catwalk_as_an_Interior_Architectural_space_A_brief_history_outlooks . Πρόσβαση στις 18 Φεβρουαρίου 2022.

WEB LINKS

Anastase, Charles. “The History of the Fashion show.” Fashionartdaily, Φθινόπωρο 2006, http://fashionartdaily. blogspot.com/2009/11/the-history-of-runway.html#.YcIz5WhByUk Πρόσβαση στις 18/2/2022.

Crockett, Lauren. “Loyis Vuitton’s Cruise ’17 Collection Unveiled at Niemeyer’s Niteroi Contemporary Art Museum.” Archdaily, 9 Ιουνίου 2016, https://www.archdaily.com/788715/lv-cruise-collection-at-niemeyers-niteroi-contemporary-art-museum Πρόσβαση στις 18/2/2022

Fortini, Amanda. “How the Runway Took off.” SLATE, 8 Φεβρουαρίου 2006, https://slate.com/culture/2006/02/abrief-history-of-the-fashion-show.html Πρόσβαση στις 18/2/2022.

Manatakis, Lexi. “Six photographers who helped us visualize the human psyche.” Dazed, 4 Μαρτίου 2019, https:// www.dazeddigital.com/art-photography/article/42924/1/photographers-visualise-human-psyche-joel-peter-witkin-dora-maar-roger-ballen Πρόσβαση στις 18/2/2022.

Ramon, Amanda. “The Fashion catwalk through the promenade Architecturale.” Somethingfashion, Αύγουστος 2017, http://www.somethingfashion.es/2017/08/fashion-catwalk-architectural-promenade-somethingfashion.html Πρόσβαση στις 18 Φεβρουαρίου 2022.

Sungtaeg, Nam. “[A new spatial grammar for Fashion shows] Hermés: A Zigzag Promenade.” SPACE, Μάιος 2021, https://vmspace.com/eng/report/report_view.html?base_seq=MTQzMw==) Πρόσβαση στις 18/2/2022.

(https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Work_of_Art_in_the_Age_of_Mechanical_Reproduction?fbclid=IwAR3I0BNpP1I17CU1mmmjJjlZeUnHZz_b6yJtOmsKvzcOr9bFFwUENmle0u8) Πρόσβαση στις 18/2/2022.

FASHION SHOWS VIDEOS

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjiiEpMbaO8&ab_channel=Prada) Πρόσβαση στις 25/2/2022.

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYdqW5mkxgk&ab_channel=Prada) Πρόσβαση στις 25/2/2022.

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgG_vsIpXW4&ab_channel=Chalayan) Πρόσβαση στις 25/2/2022.

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzp06SVyQqY&ab_channel=Scroobily) Πρόσβαση στις 25/2/2022.

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLDUXZ4X5b8&ab_channel=CHANEL) Πρόσβαση στις 25/2/2022.

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4N1yjZnebDk&ab_channel=LaRitournelle) Πρόσβαση στις 25/2/2022.

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qynzgm9i4LI&ab_channel=AlexanderMcQueen) Πρόσβαση στις 25/2/2022.

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4NOf5bH4OI&ab_channel=FFChannel) Πρόσβαση στις 25/2/2022. (https://www.hermes.com/us/en/story/274888-women-fashion-show-spring-summer-2021/) Πρόσβαση στις 25/2/2022.

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JtvxJi3Ttg&ab_channel=FFChannel) Πρόσβαση στις 25/2/2022. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juhscgB-RSE&ab_channel=FFChannel) Πρόσβαση στις 25/2/2022.

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3bGmpHubaHo&ab_channel=MaisonMargiela) Πρόσβαση στις 25/2/2022. (https://youtu.be/PZHESOq-Gkw) Πρόσβαση στις 25/2/2022.

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9s62gtr3-0U&ab_channel=Prada) Πρόσβαση στις 25/2/2022.

(https://www.instagram.com/tv/CAhDULhAFvG/?utm_source=ig_embed) Πρόσβαση στις 25/2/2022.

1 LIllustration Cover - Directoire Gowns at Longchamp, 1908 | www.lillustration.com

5 Mendes, Valerie & de la Haye, Amy. Fashion since 1900. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd, 2010.

6 www.runwaymagazines.com

7 Comoedia Illustré 1913 no. 13 Léon Bakst, Le Minaret, Paul Poiret.

8 Comoedia Illustré 1913 no. 13 Léon Bakst, Le Minaret, Paul Poiret.

9 Margaria M., Maria. “The Catwalk as an Interior Architectural space: A brief history outlooks.” ResearchGate

10 http://www.avictorian.com/worth_fashion.html

11 http://www.avictorian.com/worth_fashion.html

12 Παπαβασιλείου, Αγγελική. “Nervous Systems: Ecologies of the fashion show from the modern to the contemporary era. Introduction to the Guerrilla show.”

13 http://www.avictorian.com/worth_fashion.html

14 http://www.avictorian.com/worth_fashion.html

15 http://www.avictorian.com/worth_fashion.html

17 The Guardian: The view from the front row, a history of the fashion show-photo essay.

18 Mendes, Valerie & de la Haye, Amy. Fashion since 1900. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd, 2010.

1939 The Women: https://vimeo.com/112028153

20 The Guardian: The view from the front row, a history of the fashion show-photo essay.

21 The New York Times Style Magazine

Pinterest 25 Στιγμιότυπα από: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzp06SVyQqY&ab_channel=Scroobily

26 www.artuk.org | Guildhall Art Gallery London

27 Στιγμιότυπα από: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzp06SVyQqY&ab_channel=Scroobily 28

από: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzp06SVyQqY&ab_channel=Scroobily

29 Στιγμιότυπο από: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLDUXZ4X5b8&ab_channel=CHANEL

31 Στιγμιότυπο από: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLDUXZ4X5b8&ab_channel=CHANEL

34 Pinterest

35 Pinterest

36 www.monoskop.org | Joel-Peter Witkin Forty Photographs 37

από: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qynzgm9i4LI&ab_channel=AlexanderMcQueen

39 Στιγμιότυπο από: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qynzgm9i4LI&ab_channel=AlexanderMcQueen

από: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qynzgm9i4LI&ab_channel=AlexanderMcQueen

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qynzgm9i4LI&ab_channel=AlexanderMcQueen

από: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qynzgm9i4LI&ab_channel=AlexanderMcQueen

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qynzgm9i4LI&ab_channel=AlexanderMcQueen

Villa Savoye, Poissy | flickr

video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRWzOO_MXso&t=48s&ab_channel=FashionChannel 50

video: https://www.hermes.com/us/en/story/274888-women-fashion-show-spring-summer-2021/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JtvxJi3Ttg&ab_channel=FFChannel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juhscgB-RSE&ab_channel=FFChannel

55 Mies van der Rohe, Ludwig (1886-1969) | Georg Schaefer Museum Project, Schweinfurt, Germany, Interior perspective with view of site, 1960-1963. New York, Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) Mies van der Rohe Archive. | © The Museum of Modern Art, New York/Scala, Florence / VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn, 2016

Φιλιππίδη, Μυρτώ 20

Μαριάννα 3, 33, 34

AMO 16, 39, 40, 34

B Balenciaga 39

Barthes, Roland 26

Baudelaire 33

Benjamin, Walter 39, 45

Böhme, Gernot 20

Chalayan, Hussein 19, 25 Chanel 24, 25

Dali, Salvador 7

Delaroche, Paul 14

Eliasson, Olafur 14

England, Katy 29

Evans, Caroline 4, 7, 4, 26, 45

Exposition Universelle 4

Fellini, Federico 39

Ferrero – Regis, Tiziana 25

Foucault, Michel 15

Galiano, John 39

Ghesquière, Nicolas 33

Hanifa 43, 48

Heidegger, Martin 20

Hermes 35

Hirst, Damien 20

J Jacquemus, Simon Porte 36 Johnson, Grant 20

Koolhaas, Rem 16, 40

L Lady Duff Gordon 4

Lagerfeld, Karl 24

Lambert, Marcel-Noël 35, 50

Le Corbusier 2, 15, 24, 33, 35, 36, 47, 50

Loschek, Ingrid 19

Louis Vuitton 33

Lucile 4

Margiela, Martin 15, 39

McQueen, Alexander 2, 14, 25

Mendes & De la Haye 7, 9, 4

Mies van der Rohe, Ludwig 40

Mondrian 20

Mugler, Thierry 9

Mvuemba, Anifa 43

Niemeyer, Oscar 33

Olley, Michelle 26

Pallasmaa, Juhani 20

Poiret, Paul 1, 5, 6, 47, 50

Prada 7, 16, 18, 40, 34, 49

Quinn, Bradley 6, 1, 15, 25, 26, 45

Reichlin, Bruno 25

Richepin, Jacques 5

Samuel, Flora 24, 36

Schiaparelli, Elsa 7, 9, 47

Schumacher, Patrick 1

Steele, Valerie 3

Sungtaeg, Nam 35

The Fashion system 26

Tschumi, Bernard 15, 34, 50

Wanamaker 5

Wieser, Claudia 35

Wilde, Oscar 4, 26, 27, 47

Witkin, Joel Peter 26

Worth, Charles Frederick 4

Zumthor, Peter 20, 47