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TRAVEL GUIDE

River Cruising in Europe

Welcome on Board!

Inside these pages youâ€˜ll find insider tips, city highlights, and where

to find some of the most beautiful sites along your AMADEUS jour-

ney. Whether you join us on an excursion or explore on your own, these insights will help you to get the most out of your time ashore.

Scattered throughout these pages is information on our eco-friendly stops as well as historical tidbits. The beauty and history of

Europe is at your fingertips. Whether you like to plan in advance or read on site, we are excited to share Europe, the Amadeus Way.

Index 2 4

overview map Europe

Netherlands & Belgium 5 Netherlands 6 Amsterdam 9 Rotterdam 11 Middelburg 11 Arnhem 12 Belgium 13 Antwerp 14 Ghent

16 Rhine 17 Western Germany 18 Cologne 20 Koblenz 21 Cochem 22 Rüdesheim 24 Heidelberg 25 Speyer 26 France 27 Strasbourg 30 Switzerland 31 Basel

34 main 35 Bavaria (Franconia) 36 Wertheim 36 Würzburg 38 Bamberg 40 Nuremberg

Symbols yz Insider-Tip h Highlight a

Scenic sight

g Nature stop: For ecological opportunities

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42 Danube 43 Bavaria (Bavarian Forest) 44 Regensburg 45 Passau 48 Austria 49 Linz 50 Salzburg 52 Wachau 52 Vienna 56 Slovakia 57 Bratislava 60 Hungary 61 Esztergom 62 Szentendre 62 Budapest 65 Puszta 65 Kalocsa 66 Serbia 67 Novi Sad 68 Belgrade 71 Iron Gate 72 Romania 73 Bucharest 75 Danube Delta

& Saône 76 RhÔne 77 Southern France 78 Lyon 79 Mâcon 80 Chalon-sur-Saône 80 Avignon 82 Arles 83 Ardèche

84 seine 85 Northern France 86 Paris 89 Les Andelys 89 Rouen 91 Honfleur 92 Le Havre 95 Étretat

96 Imprint 1

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Europe

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netherlands & Belgium NETHERLANDS Amsterdam

t as

Rotterdam Arnhem

Middelburg R

h in

Antwerp

F l an

Ghent

BELGIUM

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WELCOME TO THE NETHERLANDS! “Thinking about Holland, I see broad rivers slowly moving through endless lowlands.” Every Dutch schoolchild knows the first verse of Hendrik Marsman’s poem. Water plays an important role in this country – from the water to its north to that of the many rivers, lakes, waterways and canals covering the country like a fine net. The Rhine river from Germany and the Moselle river from Belgium flow across the country and into the sea at Rotterdam. Both rivers separate the Netherlands as if into two parts. While the people of the boven de grote rivieren (above the great rivers) are mainly Protestant in character, the people of the Catholic south (beneden de grote rivieren) are characterized as those who enjoy the fine things in life, who enjoy food and drink, who celebrate the annual carnival and who are generally more carefree than the people of the north. However, the North Sea is also important, with its beaches drawing many tourists.

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places of interest

Amsterdam

guinage today. However, the last remaining beguine died in 1971.

Amsterdam has no fewer than 8,500 historical monuments to offer. Most of them lie within easy walking distance of each other in the city center – either in De Wallen, the oldest part of the city, or in the Grachtengordel, Amsterdam’s canal district. No one should leave the city without first having extensively wandered along the Singel, Herengracht, Keizersgracht or the Prinsengracht neighborhoods. But some of the newer and less well-known districts are also worth a trip. Those wishing to first get an overview of Amsterdam should climb the Westertoren tower of the Westerkerk. And those wishing to see the highlights of Dutch art history don’t have to go far in the city: The Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum and Stedelijk Museum are the country’s three most important museums and are all located in the Museumplein.

Nieuwmarkt h Extending around the old weighing house in the red light district is Nieuwmarkt: a marketplace with many terraces, music cafés and Asian food eateries. It received its name in the fourteenth century when a section of the Kloveniersburgwal was drained to create more space. It originally served as a cattle market and execution site. Today, it is the site of a food market from Monday to Saturday, as well as the occasional antique and book market. Due to the size of the square, in summer it is possible to enjoy the last rays of sun on the café terraces right up until sunset.

Places of Interest Begijnhof h An oasis of peace in the bustling city center. A collection of white houses are clustered around a small church and a few chestnut trees; the miniature gardens are lovingly tended. Founded in 1346, the beguinage was originally located at the edge of the city. It was populated by single women living in a religious community, but who didn’t wish to become nuns. They primarily dedicated themselves to caring for the elderly. Two fires almost completely destroyed the courtyard in the fifteenth century. Most of the building work today originates from the seventeenth century. In contrast, house number 34 was built in 1470 and is supposedly the oldest house in the Netherlands. Around 100 people still live at the be-

Oude Kerk h Amsterdam’s main and oldest church was built in 1300. Originally its patron saint was Saint Nicolas, who is the patron saint of sailors. As a result of the extensions made to it over the years, Oude Kerk is quite disparate in its appearance from the outside. The narrow aisles were widened as early as 1350. Then the chancel was enlarged, followed by the addition of the ambulatory. Several chapels were added in the fifteenth century and in the sixteenth century, the nave and tower were heightened. The construction was reinforced with wooden balconies, despite the risk of fire, because the sandy ground would not have otherwise been able to support the weight. Today, the church is home to temporary exhibitions of modern art. Grachtenring h The fully intact historic ensemble of the Grachtengordel is literally Amsterdam’s largest attraction. The old city canals of the Singel, as well

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Amsterdam

Bakfiets The fiets (bike) is the most popular form of transport in the Netherlands. In the past, the streets were dominated by the black Dutch bikes with backpedal brakes. However, the last few years have seen a renaissance of the bakfiets. These are longer bikes with a crate attached to the front in which children or merchandise can be transported. The bikes were originally used in the 1930s by bakers to transport

bread; construction workers would also use them to transport bricks, and fishmongers would sell from them – until the bikes were replaced by cars. When the city became congested by traffic, some inventive people recreated the black bakfiets. This resulted in premium-quality, colorful, trendy models which can be augmented with children’s seats with seatbelt and Plexiglas shells.

as the Herengracht, Keizersgracht, and Prinsengracht, along with the countless smaller intersecting canals, encompass the Medieval city center in semi-circles. Around 160 canals and 600 bridges cover an area of around 8 km². The Grachtengordel is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

ding was designed by the architect Pierre Cuypers, who was also responsible for the central train station. Embellished over and over, at first glance it is more reminiscent of a castle or cathedral than a museum. The entrance is located in a cycling and pedestrian tunnel beneath the building. On the far side of the modern foyer are halls with lavish historical wall decorations and simply overwhelming amounts of art treasures that primarily focus on paintings of the Dutch Golden Age.

Anne frank House h “Dear Kitty...”: Every schoolchild knows the words that begin Anne Frank’s diary entries. The Jewish girl hid for two years with her family in this house on the Prinsengracht during World War II – only to be deported to Bergen-Belsen close to its end, where she died. Today, the house is the headquarters of the Anne Frank Foundation as well as the site of a museum. The rear building is entered through a secret door that leads into the small apartment in which the family was forced to live. The original diary is also part of the museum’s impressive exhibition. The museum is always busy: Buy tickets online in advance to avoid lengthy lines. Rijksmuseum h Opened in 1885, this magnificent buil-

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van gogh Museum h Who doesn’t know the paintings Sunflowers, Bedroom in Arles and The Starry Night? Van Gogh is and remains one of the most highly prized and popular artists of all times. The city’s Van Gogh Museum houses one of the world’s largest collections of the Dutch Post-Impressionist painter. The artist created about 2100 works of art during his lifetime and left most of them to his brother in thanks for his financial support. The paintings remained in the family for many years. In 1963 the family bequeathed a collection of painitngs and drawings to the museum.

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SHOPPING yz HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM The largest branch museum of the famous Hermitage Museum of Saint Petersburg is located in a wonderfully restored former deanery on the Amstel from the seventeenth century. It holds temporary exhibitions of objects from its parent museum. The same building is also home to the Neva café restaurant, which has a patisserie and lunch menus based on the exhibits. In summer, its sun terrace is a fantastic place to sit. www.hermitageamsterdam.nl SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM h The interior courtyard of the maritime museum is covered by a spectacular glass and steel dome. Beneath it, visitors can choose which interactive maritime experience they wish to dive into: Golden Age, whale hunting or Amsterdam’s harbor. Enthusiasts can also enjoy a path along historical navigation instruments, ship models and antique globes. It is also possible to board and explore the Amsterdam moored in front of the museum. This is a replica of a ship which sailed to and from the East Indies. VONDELPARK h Do not expect an oasis of peace: On sunny afternoons it is all but impossible to see the park for the people. Vondelpark is one of the city’s few green areas and serves as a meeting place, cycling route, event location and playground for the local residents. In the Sixties, it was a gathering place for hippies from all over the world, who would occasionally camp there for months on end, until the police ended the occupation in 1975. The park’s origins were quite democratic. The 48 hectare park was created in 1877 as Amsterdam’s first official public park and was named after the Renaissance poet Joost van den Vondel. Wealthy citizens

got together to create a green area in their new residential neighborhood south of the Grachtengordel. Vondelpark is home to a stage which is used for free open-air performances in summer. Directly behind it is the Blauwe Theehuis, which is probably Amsterdam’s sole beer garden.

SHOPPING JACOB HOOY & CO h Entering this spice store is like taking a trip back in time. 500 herbs and spices perfume the air. They are stored in wooden drawers and barrels with gold lettering. Behind the counter are around 30 jars of drop – salty or sweet Dutch liquorice. Kloveniersburgwal 10–12 yz KAASHUIS TROMP Dutch and international cheeses are stacked to the ceiling in this small store on Utrechtsestraat. The staff are incredibly helpful and offer samples. Utrechtsestraat 90

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ROTTERDAM

Cube Houses

BIJENKORF h Founded in 1870, the department store is chic and upscale. Gucci and similar brands populate the marbled ground floor. The upper floors are home to more affordable designer labels. Dam 1

ROTTERDAM The city (population ~618,000) with Europe’s largest harbor has transformed itself into a modern metropolis since the end of World War II, one which is not short on new architecture or international flair. Rotterdam has been In existence as an important port since the tenth century, when a few settlers set up residences at the river Rotte. Thanks to its favorable location at the North Sea, the city rapidly developed an important port. However, as the cargo ships became bigger and the harbor ever shallower from sand, the city lost its importance. That didn’t change until the nineteenth century when Nieuwe waterway

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between Rotterdam and Hoek van Holland was built, creating a better connection to the sea. Trade ships were then able to once more sail to Rotterdam harbor. With its first refineries in the twentieth century, more and more oil tankers came as well. The large ships arriving at Rotterdam brought and still bring goods and immigrants, making the Netherlands’ second largest city a melting pot of numerous nationalities. In recent years, the harbor has been systematically enlarged and fitted with ultramodern container sites. The western point of the harbor is transforming 20 km² of the North Sea into container sites. For the increasingly bigger container ships, new harbor basins up to 20 m deep are being dredged. This land reclamation project is projected to cost 3 billion euros and planned for completion in 2030. World War II had devastating consequences for Rotterdam: City bombardments by the German Luftwaffe in 1940 killed 1000 people; the city center was almost completely reduced to ash and rubble. After

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PLACES OF INTEREST Huig Aart Maaskant in 1960 even extends above the newer buildings with its height of 185 meters. From its top, it’s possible to see a large section of the Dutch coastline in clear weather. The elevator runs up along the facade and is not intended for those with a fear of heights. For a fee, the brave at heart can even abseil down past the surprised restaurant guests from a height of 100 meters.

De Witte Huis

the Second World War, in contrast to many other destroyed places, the city of Rotterdam decided on a new, and occasionally brave, style for its redevelopment. This has resulted in the city boasting some of the country’s most interesting urban architecture in the Netherlands. A good example of this is the partially adventurous overbuilding of the Wilhelmina Pier. Flowing through the center of the city as its lifeline is the Nieuwe Maas. The banks of the river are populated with landmarked buildings. The north and south of the city are connected by numerous bridges and tunnels, including the Erasmus Bridge, which connects Kop van Zuid to the inner city and whose 139 meterhigh asymmetrical pylon makes it a prominent feature of the skyline.

PLACES OF INTEREST EUROMAST a The slender tower built by the architect

CUBE HOUSES h At the old harbor, in the midst of the entertainment district, are these spectacular architectural creations by Piet Blom: the Blaakse Bos cube-shaped houses, which are set atop pillars at an angle. One of these cube homes, the Kijk Kubus (tour cube) is open to visitors. www. kubuswoning.nl yz MARKTHAL g Living, working and shopping in the same building: All this is possible in the spectacular horseshoe-shaped market hall not far from the city hall. Among the almost 100 stalls of fresh, often organic, vegetables, meat, fish and cheese vendors, the tapas bars, French fries stalls and eco-bars all vie for the attention of the visitors. The magnificent ceiling comprised of 4000 colorful glass shards displays a still life of insects, fruit and vegetables. The impressive construction can expand by up to 75 cm during heavy storms. www.markthalrotterdam.nl MUSEUM BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN h One of the most significant Dutch museums for both modern and classical art. The exhibition includes numerous works by renowned artists, such as Rembrandt, Titian, Monet, Gauguin, Picasso, Matisse, Kandinsky and Dalí. www.boijmans.nl

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middelburg Shopping The L-shaped Lijnbaan was among Europe’s first car-free shopping streets in 1953. Another shopping paradise is the Beurspassage. Kop van Zuid is a renovated neighborhood in the old city center near the marina and is home to many designers, interior design stores and a huge exotic supermarket.

Middelburg h The old city gates and the handsome patricians’ houses remain to this day characteristic of the charming capital of the province of Zeeland with its 48,000 inhabitants. In the thirteenth century, the town on the island of Walcheren was an important center for the textile industry. In the seventeenth century, the United East Indian Company was even based here. Numerous warehouses serve as a reminder of the glory days of sea travel. The town center, which was substantially destroyed by the German Luftwaffe during World War II, was rebuilt in the characteristic red brick style.

Sehenswertes Abdij The greatest attraction of this former monastery is the 90 meter high octagonal Lange Jan tower. During the summer, a concert with its 49 bells is held each Thursday at noon. Today, the former monastery serves a material purpose: It is the government building for the province of Zeeland. A wing of the building also houses the Zeeuws Museum (www.zeeuwsmuseum.nl), which, among other things, has a collection of traditional costumes from the region. The interior courtyard

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also has an herb garden. Abdij 4

shopping Middelburg is well-known for its ethnic market on Thursdays. Many traders set up their stalls in front of the city hall.

arnhem In September 1944, British paratroopers landed in the provincial capital of Gelderland (population ~150,000) to assume control of the strategically important Rhine Bridge. The Medieval town center was almost completely destroyed during this and later battles. In recent years, Arnhem has made a name for itself particularly as a fashion center. A fashion biennale is held in uneven years and many graduates of the fashion and art academy have opened hip fashion or design stores in the town (Trix en Rees | Bakkerstraat 70; Coming Soon | Kerkstraat 23; The Globe | Rijnstraat 20; Ami-e-toi | Weverstraat 23; Superduper | Kortestraat 28).

places of interest Eusebiuskerk a The three-aisled church was severely affected during the Battle of Arnhem. After being restored, a glass panorama elevator was also added. This travels up past Europe’s biggest carillon to a height of 93 meters and a spectacular view. www.eusebius.nl Netherlands’ Openlucht Museum On foot or by streetcar, a tour of this huge open-air museum takes you past old farms, manor houses and workshops to provide a glimpse of everyday Dutch life in the past. www.openluchtmuseum.nl

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WELCOME TO BELGIUM! Flanders. The mere mention of Belgiumâ€™s northernmost region conjures vivid pictures: cities with imposing city halls, impressive bell towers, belfries (Dutch: belforts), picturesque beguinages, and vibrant markeplaces. Museums full of masterpieces by artists such as Hans Memling, Hubert and Jan van Eyck, Peter Paul Rubens and Anthonis van Dyck. A coastline where the hospitality makes up for the occasionally miserable weather. The Romanesque exuberance for life expressed in the colorful processions, spirited festivals and culinary treats. Looking closer, the contrasts then become clear: between the towns and countryside, old and new.

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antwerp

Antwerp Sinjoren, as the men of Antwerp proudly call themselves, while referring to their city (population ~505,000) as a metropool. In the capital of Brussels, they claim, money is handed out – in Antwerp, it is earned. All of Belgium laughs at this propensity for pomposity. But who can resent the sinjoren for regarding their city as the center of everything? Antwerp’s harbor is the second largest in Europe. Four specialized markets trade more than half of the diamonds and precious stones in the world. Antwerp also offers huge amounts of fashion designers, painters and musicians, while enticing theater producers, dancers, poets and publishers to provide a vibrant cultural scene. And all this set against the city’s rich history: Located on the banks of the Scheldt, in the sixteen century, the city was one of Europe’s most important centers of trade and finance. Following the turmoil of the religious wars, the Counter Reformation ushered in a second Golden Age at whose center the painters Peter Paul Rubens and Anthonis van Dyck shined. Despite heavy German bombardments during the winter of ‘44 to ‘45, many buildings and art treasures survive from the glorious past of a city in which life pulses like nowhere else in Flanders.

places of Interest yz ’t Eilandje The old port is the new fashionable neighborhood in the north of the city and is a wonderful place to stroll through. Warehouses have been converted into lofts, theaters and discos. Spectacular modern buildings were de-

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signed by the star architects Hans Kollhoff and Richard Meier. At the end of the Kattendijkdok, Zaha Hadid has transformed the old customs buildings into a futuristic new headquarters for the harbor management. Now and then a barge moors while the yachts bob by the quayside. For all the glamour, the atmosphere here is rawer than in the neighborhood of Zuid. MAS h Built in the old harbor by the architects Willem Jan Neutelings and Michiel Riedijk for the MAS (Museum aan de Stroom), the tower is made of sandstone and corrugated glass expanses, and rises up to 60 meters. The Wandelboulevard with escalators takes you up to the viewing platform on the tenth story, where a genuinely captivating panoramic view of the city and surrounding area awaits. The halls exclude natural light and illustrate the history of Antwerp, the development of sea travel, and the everyday life and customs of the multicultural city. The eighth story has an exquisite collection of pre-Columbian delights to admire. The forecourt is decorated by the giant Dead Skull mosaic by Luc Tuymans. The museum also has a café with a beautiful terrace, an excellent store and the Michelin Star restaurant’t Zilte. Hanzestedenplaats 1 | www.mas.be ModeNatie h The fascinating building by the architect Marie-José van Hee houses the fashion museum MoMu. It features attractive exhibitions, the art academy’s fashion department and cabinets for avant-garde projects, as well as the Flanders’ Fashion Institute, which makes the city’s fashion creators famous throughout the world. The fantastic library is public and freely accessible. The Copyright bookstore

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shopping (www.copyrightbookshop.be) is excellently stocked. Nationalestraat 28 | www. momu.be Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal h The exterior of the Gothic Cathedral of Our Lady appears disjointed with its unfinished tower. Inside, the five-bay, wide nave is impressive and is joined by the bright, raised transept and chancel. Famous Rubens paintings hang here: In the transept are the Elevation of the Cross (1610) and the Descent from the Cross (1624). In the center of the Baroque high altar is the Assumption of the Virgin Mary (1626; the woman in red at the grave is Rubens’ first wife Isabella Brant, who died of the plague in 1626). The Resurrection of Christ (1612) hangs in the second side chapel on the right. Regular organ concerts. Monday evenings are for carillon concerts. The view from the tower a is fabulous. Handschoenmarkt | www.dekathedraal.be Rubenshuis h Peter Paul Rubens not only painted for Europe’s elite, he was also a passionate collector and skilled diplomat. The Renaissance palace, which he commissioned in 1610 – along with a pantheon for his treasures, his studio and pleasance – reflects his status. The highlights include some of the most beautiful self-portraits by the master. Regular world-class exhibitions. Wapper 9–11 | www.rubenshuis. be

shopping Antwerp is a shopping paradise. Store chains dominate the Meir, luxury boutiques populate Huidevettersstraat and Schuttershofstraat. The boutiques of Antwerp’s fashion designers and the secondhand stores are found around Nationalestraat. Kammenstraat offers quirky

trends. The Zuid neighborhood and Mechelse Steenweg are home to hip art galleries and interior design stores. Conscienceplein and Leopoldstraat are where fine antiques can be found. Kloosterstraat is great for bric-a-brac. Expensive jewelers are located between Vestingstraat and Rijpstraat.

ghent Ghent (population ~250,000) receives visitors with the liveliness of an old university town. 65,000 students are strolling on its streets, chatting and partying. Alongside Antwerp, it is only Ghent that offers a diverse nightlife and genuine culture scene in Flanders. The backdrop of impressive monuments repeatedly returns the city’s history to the forefront. Ghent had one of Europe’s wealthiest textile industries, along with confident citizens and guilds. And when the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V wanted to raise a new war tax, Ghent was defiant. When the textile industry flourished again in the nineteenth century, the Flemish workers’ movement began here. Today, Ghent has many wonderful sights to offer. The Lieve and Leie flow into the Scheldt and are connected by canals and waterways. Tree-lined banks make for a wonderful way to walk and let the city’s diversity work on you. From the onset of dusk to midnight, yz the city center is lit like a fairytale and during the Festival of Light (every three years in January), designers and artists enchant the crowds with breathtaking effects on the city’s facades.

places of interest Belfry a In the middle of the wide expanse bet-

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ghent ween the cathedral and the old post office, the Medieval belfry (built 1313–80) rises up into the air. It marvelously expresses the former power of the city’s patricians and guilds. Founded in 1613, the exclusive Guild of St. Michael still practices foil fencing on the second story of the attached and severely small Cloth Hall. The tower with its carillon offers a wonderful panoramic view. Between the belfry and the cathedral, the architects Paul Robbrecht and Hilde Daem built an avant-garde interpretation of a hall and a forum – a new, highly controversial landmark. Sint-Baafsplein Gravensteen h Around the year 1000, the counts of Flanders began building a moated castle of gray stone from the Scheldt. Over two centuries, a symbol of their power arose in the form of 24 towers. The center point is the 30 meter high hall. Later, the castle served as a court, a torture chamber of the Inquisition and as a cotton mill. Old court records, weapons and torture tools illustrate the former roles of the castle. Sint-Veerleplein Sint-Baafskathedraal h The Ghent cathedral brings together several styles. The chancel and transept are in the clear style of Scheldt Gothic. The three-bay nave and the tower are typical of the later playful Brabantine Gothic style. The mixture of red brick, gray Scheldt stone and French limestone is confusing. The impressive Baroque interior was added after destruction caused by the religious wars. The cathedral is internationally renowned for the Ghent Altarpiece by Jan and Hubert van Eyck. The middle panel displays the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. The panels have been gradually restored in the voor Schone Kunsten muse-

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um. It is possible to watch while work is carried out. Even more spectacular is the website yz closertovaneyck.kikirpa.be by the Royal Institute for Cultural Heritage, which allows you to see the tiniest details of the masterpiece. Sint-Baafsplein S.M.A.K. h The Municipal Museum of Contemporary Art has become world-renowned thanks to its long-serving director Jan Hoet. With the help of artists and art patrons he has assembled a fascinating collection (including Marcel Broodthaers, Joseph Beuys and Luc Tuymans). Superb exhibitions. Popular artists café (open until 1 a.m.) Citadelpark | www. smak.be Stadhuis h The city hall is built in the styles of Late Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque. It doesn’t inhabit a square, but is very democratically placed on two street corners. Inside, splendid halls attest to the city’s power and wealth. Botermarkt 1

shopping The chain stores have settled on and around Veldstraat. Kalandeberg, Koestraat, Kortedagsteeg and Walpoortstraat provide chic boutiques. Fine antiques and design stores can be found around Onderbergen. The flea market (8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Fr–Sun) is around Sint Jacob church. Kortrijksepoortstraat and Dampoortstraat offer many secondhand stores. yz Het Hinkelspel g Fine cheeses made from unpasteurized organic milk from the region. The Pas de bleu blue cheese is astounding. F. Lousbergskaai 33

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Rhine NETHERLANDS

G E R M ANY

Cologne Rh i

BELGIUM

Koblenz

l se

Cochem id

Rhi dle

n e Va l l e y

RÃ¼desheim

Speyer

FRANCE

Heidelberg

sa c e

Rhi

Strasbourg

Basel

thw

it n Sw r e t s

z er l an d

SWITZERLAND

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WELCOME TO WESTERN GERMANY! The Rhine Gorge is a beautiful place to behold, with the narrow ravine in the Upper Middle Rhine Valley and jagged rocks growing from the river and the bank. The forests in this region are dense and magical, the villages picturesque, and the conditions for winegrowing are perfect on the rocky terraces. For centuries, this stretch of the river with its fortresses and castles has been considered one of the most beautiful â€“ a veritable magnet for painters, poets, and lovers alike. All this was recognized by UNESCO when the organization declared the Rhine Gorge a World Heritage Site.

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places of interest AMADEUS Silver

cologne The World Heritage Cologne Cathedral and Romanesque churches, the museums, and the view of the Rhine: according to official statistics, those are the tourist highlights Cologne has to offer. Of course, there is also the carnival – the Shrove Monday procession attracts up to 1.5 million visitors, who join the locals in their exuberant celebrations. Most landmarks are located in the city center districts and can be easily reached on foot. By the end of WWII in 1945, 90 percent of Cologne city center had been destroyed. The faithful reconstruction of the Romanesque churches and the City Hall’s tower took until the 1980s. The tower’s exterior is decorated with 124 stone figures depicting eras of Cologne’s history from ancient Rome to present today. The old town of Cologne is full of history, but the city also has a fascinating modern side: After 1980, Museum Ludwig and the Rheingarten were built in the area between Cologne Cathedral

and the Rhine. At the western edge of the city center, the MediaPark was constructed after 1990, and in more recent days, the old Rheinauhafen received a makeover. However, the past is still visible around many a corner between Eigelsteintor and Severinstor, where visitors to the city encounter relics from two millennia of history, such as Roman excavations or vestiges from the Middle Ages and the dawning of the Machine Age. These are witness to a proud and confident public spirit – and it is this spirit to which Cologne owes its many museums: Ever since Canon Ferdinand Franz Wallraf (1748–1824) saved a trove of ecclesiastical treasures that would otherwise have been destroyed during the Napoleonic secularization around 1800, citizens of Cologne have frequently compiled art collections and donated them to the public.

Places of interest Cathedral h The legends surrounding Saint Gereon and Saint Ursula have been around since the early Middle Ages and established the “hillige Kölle” (Holy Cologne) as a pilgrimage site. In 1164, the remains of the three Magi were brought from Milan to Cologne, where they were to be kept safe in a newly constructed shrine. It took until 1215 for the goldsmiths to complete this masterpiece; now it would require a suitably grand cathedral as a home, the cornerstone of which was laid in 1248. Master Gerhard, first of the cathedral master builders, preferred the High Gothic style of the French Coronation Churches. However, the plague and the city’s subsequent economic downfall caused construction to be abandoned in 1560. The Protestant Prussians, of all people, completed the cathedral in 1880 and used it for their political

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cologne ambitions by celebrating it as their national cultural bastion. After all, at the time of its completion, Cologne Cathedral was the highest building in the world. www. koelner-dom.de Alter markt h From the café’s terrace, you can enjoy a wonderful view of City Hall, the Jan von Werth fountain, and the “Hüsjer bunt om Aldermaat” (colorful houses at the old market) as featured in a popular folk song. Beneath the rain pipe of house no. 24, the figure of the Kallendresser (rain pipe pooper) presents you his naked derrière. But no worries: according to cabaret artist Juergen Becker, the Kallendresser does not relieve himself on tourists’ plates. The Jan von Werth fountain was constructed in 1884 and is based on a legend: The maidservant Griet rejected Jan von Werth, a young peasant, for his low birth. When he returned as a proud cavalry general at the end of the Thirty Years’ War, Griet was selling flowers at the city gates and regretted not having married him. yz Overstolzenhaus The building with its stepped gable is the only preserved patrician house in the Romanesque style. Built in 1230, the exterior of the vintner family Overstolz’s home still looks grand to this day. The rooms with the high ceilings were very drafty and uncomfortable in the past, though. Rheingasse 8 Museum Ludwig h Museum Ludwig is considered the “flagship” among Cologne’s museums, as it is home to the city’s complete art collection from the twentieth and twentyfirst centuries. The collectors Irene and Peter Ludwig entrusted the city of Cologne with their Pop Art collection back in

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1968. Later, Peter Ludwig also brought relatively unknown works of the Russian avant-garde to the city on the Rhine. Even throughout his final years of life, Ludwig (who died in 1996) discovered works of art in China and Cuba that embodied the idea of “global art” – the expression of a shared spirit among young generations of artists notwithstanding their place of origin, be it Havana, Shanghai, Berlin, or New York. HeinrichBöll-Platz 1 | www.museum-ludwig.de Historic city hall h The City Hall’s 61 meter high tower in the Late Gothic style was completed in 1414. It stood for the confident bourgeoisie and was built to rival the Great St Martin Church. A graphic representation of the city’s proud public spirit, the “Platzjabbeck” – a medieval, painted wooden head – sticks out its tongue at observers every hour on the hour. Construction of the Renaissance-style City Hall Loggia was finished in 1573. The “Piazzetta”, a 12 meter high atrium in the interior of the City Hall, is freely accessible. Its northern wall offers a view of the tower. Near the City Hall, a portico from the first century was discovered, which can be accessed from the City Hall basement. The Piazzetta (foyer area) is open to the public during the day. Romano-Germanic Museum h The museum is home to many interesting archeological finds from the founding days of the city in the first century A.D. when it started out as a colony of the Roman Empire. The most valuable exhibit featured in the museum is the Dionysus mosaic from the dining hall of a fourthcentury Roman town villa. Another notable monument is the sepulcher of the Roman veteran Poblicius (about A.D. 40). The showpiece of the world’s largest coll-

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shopping ection of Roman glass is the tricolored cage cup from the fourth century. There is a reason why so many pieces of jewelry are exhibited: their usefulness in Late Antiquity. Bracelets and necklaces were both financial asset and currency during the Migration Period in the first millennium A.D. Roncalliplatz 4 | www.museenkoeln.de Koblenz

shopping Are you looking for a souvenir to remember your trip to Cologne? If you desire something authentic, you should visit Printen Schmitz, where you can buy an edible miniature Cathedral – with or without chocolate icing – as well as many droll marzipan figures that you might actually find too cute to eat. The large stores and chains are mostly located on Hohe Straße and Schildergasse. Connected to this traffic-free area are the shopping arcades around Neumarkt. Special shops for masks, costumes, decoration, and party items are busy all year round because Cologne does not limit its party life to the Carnival season.The art scene has thinned out noticeably ever since many of Cologne’s galleries moved to Berlin. These days, in addition to a few galleries in the

city center, the two main venues to attract avant-garde art aficionados can be found in Riehl (An der Schanz 1 A) and near the South Bridge (Schönhauser Str. 8).

Koblenz At Koblenz, the Moselle and Rhine meet to create a mélange of modern sobriety and Mediterranean nonchalance. The city (population ~110,000) merges Roman history with high-tech research, and trendy cultural avant-garde with commerce. The university town is located at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle. Approaching it from the Koblenz interchange, you will most likely be reminded of the suburbs of an American metropolis. The four-lane roads will take you through commercial areas with shopping malls and billboards, but past the bottleneck that is the Europabrücke, a different world begins. It is a world of cobbled alleys in the old town, parks around the Electoral Palace, and the Deutsches Eck (German Corner) with its impressive Wilhelminian monument and its romantic promenade along the Rhine bank with view of the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. While Koblenz features the pedestrian zones common to German cities, only a few steps away are small cafés and rustic bars, elegant shops selling expensive tobacco and leather goods, dimly lit thrift stores, or artists’ studios. Ever since the Bundesgartenschau 2011 (Federal horticulture show), the “castellum apud confluentes”, as the city was called when it was still just a small Roman settlement, has had a particularly “flowery” side: flowers now grow on former parking lots.

places of interest DEUTSCHES ECK (German Corner) h a At the border of the old town, the Mo-

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cochem selle flows into the Rhine. On the bank, German Emperor William I has sat atop his horse high above the two rivers since 1897. During WWII, the 37 meter high monument lost its larger-than-life general, but in 1993, both horse and rider were restored to their former glory. Most of the approximately 2 million visitors coming here each year mainly enjoy the view of the Rhine and the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. Konrad-Adenauer-Ufer (Konrad-Adenauer bank) EHRENBREITSTEIN FORTRESS h The fortress is the second largest in all of Europe. It was constructed by the Prussians between 1817 and 1828, but the first settlers of the plateau can be traced back to Antiquity. You can reach the fortress by cable car, which was built for the Bundesgartenschau 2011, from the Rhine riverbank in the old town. In order to protect the World Heritage status of the Middle Rhine Valley, the cable car was supposed to be dismantled once the Bundesgartenschau was over. However, the citizens of Koblenz successfully petitioned for it to stay, and Unesco signed off on its continued operation. From the viewing platform in the sweeping fortress park, you can enjoy a spectacular view of the Moselle estuary and the city. The site is also a backdrop for events and concerts. Furthermore, the fortress is home to Landesmuseum Koblenz (www.landesmuseum-koblenz.de) – a museum that will captivate you with its collection of technological antiquities and archeological finds. KAISERIN-AUGUSTA-ANLAGEN h The design of this part of the Rhine promenade between Deutsches Eck and the Electoral Palace was commissioned by Empress Augusta (wife of Emperor William I) and built by landscaping genius Peter Lenné, who created this park with its art mo-

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numents and sculptures. Much of it was destroyed during WWII, but on the occasion of the Bundesgartenschau, everything was restored according to the original designs. Today, the wide steps leading down to the Rhine embankment are a meeting place for sun worshippers, water enthusiasts, and all who just want to relax.. STOLZENFELS CASTLE h a The light walls and pinnacles, along with the park and the gardens give this castle from the thirteenth century a fairytale air. Even the footpath to the castle past a waterfall and a grotto takes you back in time. The original building was destroyed by the French in 1689 and rebuilt in 1836 based on the designs of the famous architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel. Its interior features an impressive great hall and summer hall. A special highlight for small groups are the yz dramatized guided tours each evening: the history of the castle and its inhabitants are presented to visitors with great gusto. Am Schlossweg 1 | Koblenz-Stolzenfels | www.schloss-stolzenfels.de

Cochem This district town (population ~5,500) is one of the biggest attractions along the Lower Moselle and popular with the tourists all year round. That does not diminish its charm in the slightest, as it helps to keep the narrow, mostly pedestrian-only alleys in the old town lively. The best view of the old city, with its jutties and timber-framed houses, can be had at a distance: if you cross the bridge over the Moselle into the Cond district, you will behold a picture-perfect panorama, complete with the Weiße Flotte – mostly white passenger ships cruising Germany’s continental waterways – and swans on the river, the silhouette of the

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places of interest Cochem Imperial Castle, and the densely forested hills of the Eifel on the horizon.

palces of interest CAPUCHIN MONASTERY a From the old town, climb the small stairs, embracing the quiet and calm, leaving behind the hustle and bustle of the city center. The Capuchin monastery from the seventeenth century offers a grandiose view of the Tal der Wilden Endert (wild Endert valley) and the Winneburg castle ruin, which was once the ancestral seat of the noble House of Metternich. These days, the secularized monastery is an arts center that stages cabaret, concerts, and other events (mainly during the winter season). Klosterberg 5 MARKET SQUARE Cochem’s heart is round and small like a living room: gorgeous timber-framed houses are nestled close together, and in the center of the market square, the Martinsbrunnen from the eighteenth century stands proudly. The city hall was also constructed in that era. Just take a seat, relax, and enjoy the atmosphere. REICHSBURG (IMPERIAL CASTLE) h a This is where people from all nations meet, as do all kinds of architectural styles. The imperial castle is the most romantic knight’s castle west of the Lower Moselle. During the summer season, a bus shuttle carries tourists from Endertplatz to the spectacularly beautiful castle, but there’s also a hiking trail for all who prefer to enjoy the walk. The path begins down in the city at Martinstor and winds its way up the slope, passing the colorful and fragrant landscape garden created by the erstwhile lord of the castle Louis Ravené. The castle was built around 1000 and crouches on a shale

hill overgrown with grapevines. During the reign of the Staufen, it became an imperial fiefdom but was soon destroyed by the troops of the French Sun King Louis XIV, like so many other castles lining the banks of the Moselle. In 1868, the Berlin merchant Louis Ravené bought the ruins and transformed them into the Neo-Gothic fairytale castle of today. While it does not bear any resemblance to the historic original, it perfectly expresses the romantic ideals of his time. The interior is a colorful mix of styles from different epochs and creates a fantastic piece of art. Schlossstr. 36 | www.reichsburg-cochem.de

shopping Wajos Genussmanufaktur This factory is located in the old city and sells liqueur and vinegar specialties prepared by the Walter J. Oster vineyard and produced in Cochem-Dohr. Sauces and choice gourmet ingredients are also available. Markt 7

rüdesheim With the slogan “144 meters of joie de vivre”, the city characterizes its biggest attraction: the world-famous Drosselgasse that’s home to its great variety of wine taverns. In fact, Rüdesheim (population ~7000) is the town with the most tourists per inhabitant in Germany. The town center and its Rhine romanticism has inspired many a poet and musician. Johannes Brahms composed his Symphony No. 3 in Rüdesheim while attending the completion of the Niederwalddenkmal. The Rheingau’s most famous town also has a lot of culture to offer, such as the historic manors in Oberstraße or the Adlerturm in Grabenstraße – a remnant of the old city wall and fortification

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RÜDESHEIM from the fifteenth century. Another monument that’s weathered the test of time is the Brömserburg, which is one of the oldest castles in the Rhine region. Gourmets will thoroughly enjoy a visit as almost nowhere else in Rheingau offers such varied cuisine. Furthermore, restaurants, bars and Strausswirtschaften (local wine taverns open at certain times a year) regularly offer live music events. Stores catering to tourists are also open on Sundays. The atmosphere is particularly tranquil in the town’s district of Eibingen, located in the midst of the region’s vineyards. Of course, here you will find numerous inns and wine taverns where you can stop and savor the region’s delicacies. The town is also famous for the work of Saint Hildegard of Bingen, who founded a monastery here in 1165.

facts about the breeding and hunting habits of these majestic animals.

PLACES OF INTEREST NIEDERWALDDENKMAL h Even from a distance, the national monument’s Germania is clearly discernible towering above Niederwald’s southern slopes. After the Franco-Prussian War (1870–71), it was built from 1877 to 1883 and engraved with the inscription “Zum Andenken an die einmuethige siegreiche Erhebung des deutschen Volkes und an die Wiederaufrichtung des Deutschen Reiches 1870–1871” (“In memory of the unanimous victorious uprising of the German people and of the reinstitution of the German Empire 1870–1871”). The 12 meter tall and 32 ton Germania holds the crown of the emperor in her right hand and the imperial sword in her left hand. From the a large terrace at the foot of the monument, you can enjoy an incredible panoramic view of the Rhine Valley. Many visitors come here by cable car from Rüdesheim. The nearby Adlerwarte is also worth a visit. Here, you can watch numerous native birds of prey and find out many interesting

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Drosselgasse Rüdesheim

RHEINGAU WINE MUSEUM BRÖMSERBURG The Brömserburg was built around 1000 A.D. on the foundations of a Roman fort on the banks of the Rhine. It was the seat of the Rüdesheim noble house Brömser. The guest book has entries from famous historical figures such as Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Heinrich Heine, the Brothers Grimm, and Felix MendelssohnBartholdy. Today, the castle is home to over 2000 exhibits and the oldest collection of objects for wine-making and consumption displayed across twelve rooms. These include historical wine presses and wine glasses from all significant epochs. Rheinstr. 2 | www.rheingauer-weinmuseum.de

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Shopping shopping Käthe Wohlfahrt 365 days of Christmas: In this place, everything is about this important annual celebration. If you are looking for traditional German Christmas tree decorations, you will certainly find inspiration here. The specialty store also sells hand-made classics from Nativity figurines and Christmas pyramids to smoking men and nutcrackers. Oberstr. 35 | www.kaethewohlfahrt.de

Heidelberg Visiting Heidelberg for just a few hours? It is possible. However, the city is not made for a quick sight-seeing trip. That which inspired poets, painters, and philosophers in the past and the present can only be discovered with time to explore the history of the city. Heidelberg’s old town can be divided into two parts: “unne” and “owwe”, which mean “lower” and “upper”. The “lower” western section begins at Bismarckplatz (Bismarck square) and covers the area all the way to Universtitätsplatz (university square) where you can cross over into the “owwe” section – the historic center of Heidelberg. Here, you’ll encounter stone witnesses to the city’s eventful history on every corner – first and foremost the university, which was built in 1386. You can explore the city’s colorful past more deeply during a visit to one (or more) of the many museums: For example, Kurpfälzisches Museum (Palatinate Museum), the President Friedrich Ebert Memorial, and the museum of the University Heidelberg are all home to impressive historical exhibits. Hauptstraße (Main Street) is a magnet for tourists and a mecca for shopping, but you can find interesting shops in the small alleys, too. There you

will also get the chance to enjoy the beauty of the many courtyards and gabled houses. Take your time strolling through the streets and remember to bring comfortable shoes, as most of the roads in the historic center are cobbled.

places of interest Old Bridge h Johann Wolfgang von Goethe reflected on the bridge upon seeing it for the first time in 1797 with the words “Die Brücke zeigt sich von hier aus in einer Schönheit wie vielleicht keine Brücke der Welt …” (“From this view, the bridge has a beauty which likely no other bridge in the world can surpass ...”). Indeed, it would not even need the three statues, all of which are copies, as an adornment to reveal its natural beauty. The ensemble of the bridge and bridge gate, which leads to a small square, has been a favorite motif for painters and photographers of all eras. The Karl Theodor Bridge, as it is officially called, has a turbulent past: it has been rebuilt nine times. The last time in 1788, saw the bridge and its eight pillars fashioned completely from stone for the first time. It was erected by Elector Charles Theodor, who was immortalized with his own statue on the bridge right next to that of Pallas Athena. MOUNTAIN RAILWAY h a A trip with the Heidelberg Mountain Railway is an amazing experience any time of year. The entire length of the route to the city’s landmark mountain, the Königstuhl (586 m), offers fantastic views of Heidelberg. The two historic cars running between Molkenkur and Königstuhl were fully refurbished a few years ago to preserve the city’s genuine historical treasure. Today, two superlatives meet: the trains in the lower part are considered the most modern mountain railways in

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speyer Germany, while the upper route is traversed by the oldest electrically powered cable car. The valley station is at Kornmarkt. www.bergbahn-heidelberg.de castle h Heidelberg without its castle is unimaginable. The view from the Schlossaltan, the elector’s balcony, is unique and stirs the heart and soul. It is a must-see for anyone who really wants to experience Heidelberg. The whole complex, comprising of the castle and the castle garden, looks back on an eventful history of construction, destruction, and partial restoration. The different master builders and owners are evident in the varied architectural styles of the building. market square h Opinions differ on which is the most beautiful square in the city: Marktplatz (market square) or Universitätsplatz (university square). The market square has some noteworthy advantages over its competition in the form of the City Hall, the Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Spirit), and the gorgeous fronts of the Ritter and baroque Hofapotheke..

shopping The heart of Heidelberg city center is Hauptstraße (Main Street). Every shopping tour should start here at Bismarckplatz in the “lower” part of Heidelberg. On your way to the “upper” part of the city toward Karlstor, you will be tempted by the great variety of articles on sale. For the full experience, you should also explore the shopping district’s small alleys. The first leads to St. Anna-Gasse, the second to Neugasse. Following these two narrow passages, you will soon reach the Plöck – the main street’s “little sister” running parallel to it. Staying on Hauptstraße will first take you to The-

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aterplatz. On the way there, you pass numerous fashion boutiques and shoe stores, as well as equally as many cell phone stores. The side streets are home to second-hand bookstores, wine stores, and Italian delis. Near Universitätsplatz, yz Untere Straße branches off from the main street. This narrow alley is packed with small stores where you can find a variety of avant-garde fashion, jewelry, and art and knickknacks. If you need a break from all the shopping, you can enjoy coffee and cake in one of the many cafés or stop at a restaurant for a hearty meal.

Speyer The imperial city (population ~49,700), replete with old merchant and timberframed houses, is about 25 kilometers east of Neustadt. When visiting, you should make sure not to miss out on one of the most important Romanesque buildings in the region: the grand Cathedral from around 1030. Let the fascinating interior captivate you while you walk in diffuse lighting beneath the high dome, and take a moment to marvel at the master builders’ exceptional craftsmanship. If you climb the 304 steps to the 60 meter high a observation deck on the western side of the cathedral, you are rewarded with a beautiful view of the Baden region and the city of Speyer. Other architectural highlights of the city besides the cathedral are the Memorial Church, the Dreifaltigkeitskirche (Trinity Church), and the Mikveh. The Historical Museum of the Palatinate features fascinating exhibitions on a variety of topics from Egypt to the Vikings and even Playmobil. One of the most interesting pedestrian zones in the Palatinate connects Altpörtel and the Cathedral.

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WELCOME TO FRANCE! Alsace is a region with many different speeds. A downhill cyclist in the Vosges going way too fast. A TGV on a straight stretch of railway traveling 320 kilometers an hour. A man and a woman on a houseboat gliding at walking pace. Saturday afternoon in Mulhouse, Colmar, Strasbourg: Alsace is a region with many different speeds, people and vehicles traversing the main street. In the past, the main arguments for a vacation in Alsace were its rural charm, the wine route, and the philosophy of “Living like God in France”, but this list has been greatly expanded since then. Over 8280 km², you will find a lot more than the popular places of interest such as Strasbourg Cathedral and the Isenheim Altarpiece, Alsatian cuisine and wine taverns, or music and theater festivals. The region also offers two large nature reserves – the Ballons des Vosges and Vosges du Nord –, the cross-border Palatinate Forest North Vosges Biosphere Reserve, and many other biotopes, such as marsh areas and wetlands.

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Strasbourg

strasbourg Directly in front of the cathedral’s main entrance sits a stout man who breaks into song in an angelic voice: overtone chanting. In the visible distance, a gypsy band belts out music while a mime moves in slow-motion opposite. Maybe there is a demo for or against something, but there is definitely a farmers market, selling fruits, vegetables, cold meat, cheese, and clothes. All that and more is Strasbourg. The street cafés are crowded, something interesting is going on around every corner, and the babble of voices is Babylonian. People not just from Europe but from all over the world have found a home here. Three major religions thrive in the city and each year, millions want to see the capitale Européene (population ~270,000). There are many marvels to behold around Munster, this vast pedestrian zone on the World Heritage Site of Grande Île, where the Romans first set up camp more than 2000 years ago. Next came the Alemanni, later the Merovingians, the Germans, and finally the French. In the twentieth century, the city also experienced a change of language. Did its eventful past hurt Argentoratum – the “silver castle” – as the Romans called it? No. Even though it had to undergo all these changes, the city has benefited from it, as is particularly evident in the varied and genuine European architecture everywhere. You will find numerous timber-framed houses – some small and lopsided, others beautiful and proud – from the era when Strasbourg was a free city and nation states were still unknown. Neo-classical palaces and Victorian squares can be found in all the places where French governors had a hand in the city’s development. However, even the rather short German era left its

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mark with Historicism and Art Nouveau. And yet today the city is known by its French name Strasbourg. It is a leading force in trade, economy, and education, and is constantly reinventing its urban planning. Despite its urbanity, Strasbourg has preserved its Alemannic soul. In Strasbourg, longing means coziness, even though it is alive with theater, dance and music festivals like any other metropolis.

places of interest STRASBOURG CATHEDRAL h Coming from the Alsatian plain, Strasbourg Cathedral is the only building you will see on the horizon for a long while until eventually, the whole city comes into view. How did this impressive view affect people in the days before high-rises found their way inside the Strasbourg city limits? Until 1875, the 144 meter high cathedral was the highest building in the world. It was originally a Romanesque church that, after being struck by lightning, was rebuilt between 1176 and 1439 using the red sandstone of the Vosges. Its architecture was modeled after the Gothic cathedrals popular in France at the time. Particularly prominent is the 142 meter high northern spire that would never have the twin that was planned in the original design. Instead, you can follow in Goethe’s footsteps, who climbed the 332 steps to the church’s a platform in an attempt to rid himself of his acrophobia. yz Château Musée V odou If skulls disgust you, you might want to skip a visit to this place. The voodoo museum is housed in an old water tower from 1878 and showcases West African religions in all their manifestations. The ancestor worship is particularly remarkable. Most exhibits were assembled during the second half of the twen-

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shopping tieth century in Ghana, Togo, Benin, and Nigeria by Strasbourg collector Marc Arbogast. Masks, traditional costumes, sculptures, and “enchanted” objects of everyday life are presented on four levels. 4, Rue de Koenigshoffen | www.chateau-vodou.com EUROPEAN QUARTER h Strasbourg certainly lives up to its title of European City. The glass-and-steel palaces of the European Parliament are situated along the bank of the Bassin de I’Ill, opposite the Orangerie. Only a stone’s throw away is another architectural masterpiece: the Cité Ungemach, the workers’ colony from 1920. yz MUSÉE ALSACIEN The Alsatian museum was founded in 1907 and is housed in a timber-framed building from the seventeenth century. Here, you can stroll through rooms decorated true to the original, such as a living room in the Renaissance style, a pharmacy, a smithy, and much more. Each room is furnished liberally with furniture, paintings, objects of everyday life, tools, and toys from the respective era. 23–25, Quai Saint-Nicolas | www. musees.strasbourg.eu STRASBOURG MUSEUM OF MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY ART (MAMC) h The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art has such an incredible collection that it can regularly present new and surprising exhibitions on short notice. Strasbourg artists Hans Arp and Gustave Doré are frequently featured. The museum shop has a great variety of photobooks, Japanese sketchbooks, and art books. You can enjoy an amazing view of the city from the a terrace of the Art Café on the second floor. 1, Place Jean Arp

| www.musees.strasbourg.eu PETITE FRANCE h You have not seen Strasbourg if you haven’t visited Petit France. With its alleys, nooks and crannies, bridges and water gates, as well as the imposing Alemannic timber-framed houses and the vast expanse of water, it is considered the most picturesque part of the city. Even on foggy days – bonjour, mélancholie – the place is beautiful. Although thousands of tourists descend on the quarter every day, you can still find a few quiet spots. Viewing it from the a Barrage Vauban weir reveals just how enchanting the quarter is. yz german quarter Following in the Emperor’s footsteps: After 1871, billions were spent on building a whole quarter in the historicism and art nouveau style. To this day, the Wilhemian “German Quarter” stands intact. The largest, most notable sight is the Imperial Palace (known today as Palais du Rhin), the smallest is the Emperor’s profile in the palace’s wrought-iron banister. Another treasure from the city’s past is the Maison Egyptienne (10, Rue Général Rapp). yz WINE CELLAR OF STRASBOURG CITY HOSPITAL The city hospital’s wine cellar was built in 1392 and is the heart of Alsatian wine. The best vintages are stored here, and you can take not only a tour of the building but also buy excellent wines. The oldest wine is from 1472, and this relic is not for sale. 1, Place de l’Hôpital | www.vins-des-hospices-de-strasbourg.fr

shopping When it comes to shopping, the Alsatians are truly French: They are crazy for

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strasbourg

Storks The white stork does not only deliver babies, it also brightens your day – at least in Alsace, a native habitat of the stork since time immemorial. The bird was even elevated to heraldic animal. Just like in many other places in Europe, the stork population declined in Alsace, until there were only nine mating pairs left in 1974 – an all-time low! Every spire, every chimney looked empty and sad. Thanks to captive breeding programs and conservationist activities, it was possible to reintroduce the adorable birds. Today, the storks are on the rise again, and the population is up to more

than 300 pairs nesting in the region between the Vosges and the Rhine. Many of the birds do not even undertake the annual migration to Africa and back anymore, but rather prefer to remain in the region instead of traveling the 20,000 kilometers. The reason for this change in behavior is a controversial issue: Some experts believe that the behavior was “unlearned”, as three years in captivity suppressed the natural instincts. Others are convinced that the reason is that Alsace and its Storckadörfern (stork villages) are simply too beautiful to leave!

shopping malls like Les Halles (Place des Halles) or one of the 90 stores of Rivetoiles (3, Place Dauphine | www.rivetoile.com) south of the city center. Most of the city’s fashion and designer boutiques can be found in the Rue des Hallebardes, Rue Mésange, and Rue des Grandes Arcades, as well as in the network of streets and alleys around the cathedral. Delicatessens selling wines, cheese, and cold meats are most common in the side streets. Important note: Many businesses are closed on Monday mornings.

a Strasbourg original, where you will find beer brands from all around the world. Naturally, the shop also carries creations from the Alsatian microbreweries. 22, Rue des Frères

yz Bretzel Airlines Alsace without storks, knackwurst, and pretzels is unimaginable, but that does not mean there cannot be a modern take on the region! Two brothers use cheeky picture language to elevate Alsace to a cool global brand: their shirts, posters, and stickers really are something! Rue Juif/ Rue du Parchemin | www.bretzelairlines.com Le Village de La BiÈre The “Beer Village”, run by Alain Pesez, is

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yz LE THÉ DES MUSES g Have a cuppa: With more than 300 different types of tea (even organic) from all around the world, who could resist? You can then settle down comfortably in the adjacent tea room salon de thé and enjoy your tea with some relaxing jazz music. Prices for half a liter of tea start at 3.50 euros. 51, Rue du Fossé des Tanneurs | thedesmuses.blogspot.com ARTS & COLLECTIONS D’ALSACE Every tourist shop carries tablecloths and bread bags made from Alsatian Kelsch fabric, as well as historical photos, crockery, and ceramics. This one is different; it is less cluttered and better organized. There are no plush storks! 4, Place Marché aux Poissons | www.artscollections-alsace.comtorische

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WELCOME TO SWITZERLAND! The sound of Switzerland. The ringing of the giant copper cowbells reaches the village square long before any cows are visible. The sound seems to echo down from the blindingly blue sky. The farmers are all dressed up, proudly wearing their red traditional costumes and hats with flowers while they drive the cattle. The large animals have to get to the pastures by evening, high up in the mountains that rise behind the village. For hundreds of years, the Swiss have been celebrating the Almauftrieb (driving cattle to the mountain pastures) this way. The village, the sky, the mountains, the alpine pastures, the tradition: all this is Switzerland.

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BASEL

BASEL The city offers so much variety that you certainly will not be bored during your visit. Basel is old and modern, elegant and casual, busy and relaxed all at the same time. Part of the reason for the city’s contradictory character are the people of Basel, many of whom arrived here from all over the world: students, industrialists, and workers ride the same streetcars and meet along the banks of the Rhine for a beer. Everyone participates in the wealth because everyone who is someone in the “Basler Teig” (the rich upper class) invests their money into culture. Therefore, it should not come as a surprise that Basel is world-renowned for its art. You may also notice the Mediterranean atmosphere in the two halves of the city: Großbasel, left of the Rhine, with the historic city center, and Kleinbasel with is colorful quarters full of culture on the other side of the river.

meeting in one of the Buvettes, the local beer gardens. Turn off at the Klingentalfähre to get to the remodeled barracks (Klybeckstr. 1b | www.kaserne-basel.ch), an alternative culture center with expansive lawns, clubs, and bars in the trendy yz Matthäus quarter. Between Klybeckstrasse and Feldbergstrasse are small shops, great restaurants, and the old florist Flore (Klybeckstr. 5 | florebasel. weebly.com), which a Frenchman named Miron Londreau has turned into a wine tavern with café. Occasionally there are oysters on the menu. The Feldbergkiosk (Feldbergstr. 60 | www.feldbergkiosk.ch) is a first-rate diner. The farmers’ market in Feldbergstrasse is open every Saturday morning.

PLACES OF INTEREST yz GEDENKSTÄTTE FÜR FLÜCHTLINGE (REFUGEE MEMORIAL RIEHEN) During WWII, hundreds of thousands of refugees fled Nazi Germany to seek asylum in Switzerland. Not all were admitted, others only survived thanks to the help of courageous Swiss. The memorial tells the story of this widely unknown chapter in Swiss history. Tinzlingerstr. 44 | Riehen | www.gedenkstaetteriehen.ch KLEINBASEL The h Basel Riviera is located on the sunny side of the Rhine. When the weather is fine, half of Basel gathers here, either tanning along the river bank or

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Basel Minster

KUNSTMUSEUM h On its opening day in April 2016, enthusiastic arts aficionados waited in line

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places of interest View of the Münsterberg

outside in the pouring rain. For a good reason: the modern building itself is already worth a visit, and there is no better setting for contemporary art. Even the underground tunnel that connects the old building to the new is a work of art. St.-Alban-Graben 16/20 | www. kunstmuseumbasel.ch

(www.design-museum.de) in the neighboring German town Weil am Rhein. The building housing the museum there is a sight to behold! The five kilometer long path passes through vineyards and 24 colorful objects by the artist guide the way. For the full Basel experience, you should take the tram for the trip from Weil back to Basel. www.24stops.info

Basel Minster a The beautiful red spires of the Basel Minster offer a fantastic view of the city – once you have climbed the 242 steps to the top. The cathedral was built in 1180 and has stood witness to historic events, such as the election of a counter pope in 1439. It is also the burial place of the scholar Erasmus of Rotterdam (1466/69 to 1536), who was laid to rest in the side aisle. Entry fee for the tower. www.baslermuenster.ch

Rheinuferweg St. Johann What an amazing promenade! The 30 meter wide Elsässerrheinweg was opened in 2016 and starts at the park in the St Johann district, passes the modern Novartis Campus (where every building was designed by a different famous architect) and winds its way through the countryside all the way to France. It is also perfect for biking and skating! Start at St Johanns Park

yz Rehberger path Crossing borders: This path was designed and constructed by the artist Thomas Rehberger and leads from Fondation Beyeler to Vitra Design Museum

Tinguely-Museum The sound of rattling and squeaking never stops in this museum, which was remodeled in 2016: The colorful, moving machines fashioned by the artist Jean

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Basel Tinguely from scrap metal and other random objects may work, but they do not fulfill a purpose. They are still lots of fun, though! Paul-Sacher-Anlage 2 | www. tinguely.ch

shopping Basel’s main shopping street is on Freie Strasse, located between the bank association and the market square. A farmers’ market is held there Monday to Saturday. The Marktgasse, which runs from here to the Rhine, has small shops like the Xocolatl (www.xocolatl.ch) specialty shop for all things chocolate or the Changemaker (www.changemaker.ch), a small store selling fair products. A selection of small, hip stores can be found in

Feldbergstrasse in the Matthäus-Viertel (Matthew Quarter). 1fach This is where beard combs can be found next to cake mixes and flasks next to bow ties: 1fach sells practically everything because everyone can rent a box (or a hanger) for their products. The result: a surprising variety! Güterstr. 97 | www.1fach-basel.ch Läckerli Huus Enjoy trying Basler Leckerli – a local gingerbread specialty – in an historical setting. If you find something that you like, you can purchase it right then and there in package sizes up to one kilogram. Gerberstr. 57 | www.laeckerli-huus.ch

National Referendum Please note that this is a test: Are you all for having 50 percent more vacation days than before? Do you vote “Yes” for the state paying you 30,000 Swiss francs a year without question or conditions? Or for the 40-hour work week (which in Switzerland means fewer working hours)? If you answered “No” to all three questions, you are Swiss (at least at heart) because all three proposals were rejected by the vast majority of the population in referendums. Why would the Swiss do such a thing? Some say it is because of their sense of responsibility. Others put it down to a fear of change. But one thing is certain: Nowhere in the world do citizens have as much influence on the work of politicians, which is why Swiss politicians often do not act until the population has cast its vote. But even if they

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act before a referendum, the people have to vote after the fact nonetheless. Three times a year, actually. All proposals must get a majority of the votes (“Volksmehr”) and the majority of the cantons must also agree (“Städtemehr”). More than once, these referendums have caused tension between Switzerland and other countries. For example, in the case of the controversial minaret ban (there were only three in all of Switzerland) or the strict immigration quota on citizens of the European Union (costing Switzerland a lot of EU money and friends). In such cases, politicians try to fix the mess before the next referendum. By the way: If you want to put something to the vote, just become Swiss and collect signatures from 99,999 other people. That is all you need to get your proposal off the ground.

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WELCOME TO BAVARIA! So you want to know about Franconia in Bavaria? Well and good, but be warned! Once you get to know this region, you will not want to leave! It might even be the beginning of an intense and lifelong relationship because Franconia is not made for a fleeting acquaintance or a brief stay. This part of Germany between Aschaffenburg and Hof and between Ansbach and Coburg is simply too multifaceted. Franconia wants to be conquered one step at a time and with all the senses. The region also offers a trove of cultural treasures and unique landscapes, whose â€œcolorful, shining gemsâ€? have inspired travel writers from as early as the nineteenth century. Even after the advent of Modernity, exploring Franconia inadvertently leads to discovering these gems: romantic timber-framed houses, cobbled alleys, impressive and artistic cathedrals and basilicas, sleepy castles and palaces, dark forests, and lakes sparkling in the sun. And when you stop at one of the cozy inns to chat a little with the inhabitants over a beer, a wine and a good meal, you will not be able to shake the feeling that this is living like God in Franconia.

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places of interest

Wertheim The old town of Wertheim (population ~22,500) is located in the triangle between the Main and Tauber rivers. High above the city rises the castle that was built in the twelfth century. The most stunning timber-framed buildings in the city – the old city hall and the Haus der vier Gekrönten – are home to the Grafschaftsmuseum (Rathausgasse 6–10 | www.grafschaftsmuseum.de), where you can not only admire art exhibits but also learn about viniculture and fishing. The quaint Museumsschlösschen (Würzburger Str. 30 | www.schloesschen-wertheim.de) is only ten minutes on foot from the old town. It was turned into a museum with exhibits ranging from valuable china to paintings from the time of the Berlin Secession. 18 kilometers away along the Main in the direction of Miltenberg is the idyllic Fechenbacher Grund (Am Schützenhaus | www. bogenparcours-collenberg.de) near Collenberg, where you can enjoy an exciting bow and arrow “hunting trip” shooting wooden boars, stags, and foxes. www.wertheim.de

würzburg Countless church spires give the city’s silhouette its distinctive look. The Cathedral and University City of Würzburg (population ~125,000) lies sheltered in a basin. The almost Mediterranean climate of the region is excellent for wine growing and the city is surrounded by vineyards. The southern climate is also evident in the lively bars, restaurants, boutiques, and farmers’ markets snuggled amidst the sacred architecture. Even when viewed from Marienberg Fortress, it is hard to determine how many spires the 1300 years old city has. The Main river, the many

world-famous buildings of the bishop’s seat, and the 20,000 schoolchildren and students in particular make life in this city so varied

palces of interest Alte Mainbrücke The oldest bridge in Würzburg (eleventh century) with its eight broad stone arches connects the fortress district with the old town. Among the twelve larger-than-life sculptures of saints flanking the bridge are statues of the three Franconian martyrs Kilian, Kolonat, and Totnan, as well as other saints from the region. A popular pastime among Würzburg residents is enjoying a yz Brückenschoppen (“bridge pint”), which is served at places like the Alte Mainmühle wine tavern. There you can sip your drink and enjoy the view from the bridge. Marienberg fortress a With its high, chiseled walls and towers, Marienberg Fortress (seventh century) seems impregnable. From here, you have the best view of the old town on the other side of the Main river. The Kommandantenbau houses the Mainfränkische Museum with exhibits of Franconian art and history as well as the largest Tilman Riemenschneider collection (comprising of 81 sculptures). The Fürstenbau Museum next door has a stunning, huge wooden model of the city before 1945. The fortress itself was home to the prince-bishops before they eventually moved into the Würzburg Residence. Käppele a The Rococo building in the midst of the lush, green forest of the Nikolausberg is a graceful response to the chiseled Marienberg Fortress on the neighboring mountain to the left. Featuring narrow oni-

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wertheim on spires and a white and yellow facade, you can reach the Käppele (built 1748) via the many steps of the Kreuzweg (access marked with road signs from Nikolaistraße). The church’s interior impresses with ornate pews and paintings framed in stucco. When it was constructed in 1748 by Balthasar Neumann, the church was officially christened Wallfahrtskirche Mariä Heimsuchung, but today, even the street signs call it by its Franconian nickname Käppele. yz Lusamgarten Behind Neumuenster Church is an archway that leads to a serene courtyard overgrown with ivy and offering shady trees. A large, white stone sarcophagus holds the remains of the lyric poet Walther von der Vogelweide (1170 to 1230). Chances are high that you will encounter couples kissing above the stone lid: after all, Walther was the creator of one of the most famous love poems of the Middle Ages: “Du bist mîn, ich bin dîn …“ (“You are mine, I am yours ...). Würzburger Residence h It took several decades (1720 to 1780) until construction of the ambitious design by Balthasar Neumann was completed. Its beauty and faithful realization of the late Baroque style in both its interior and the exterior prompted Unesco to declare it a World Heritage Site in 1983. The massive Baroque front dominates the back part of the old town. Together with other buildings, porticos, and obelisks, it surrounds a large, cobbled square (partially used as a parking lot today) that is home to the Franconia Brunnen (Franconia Fountain). The wrought-iron gate to the left leads to the Hofgarten (Court Gardens). Even more beautiful than the fountain and the expertly trimmed boxwood trees are the many small putti in sometimes erotic poses along the arcades and stairways of the garden. Inside the residence, you can ad-

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mire the world’s largest ceiling fresco of 670 square meters in the Treppenhaus (staircase). This marvel pays homage to the prince-bishop and was created by the Venetian painter Giambattista Tiepolo (1696 to 1770), who finished the Allegory of the Planets and Continents after three years in 1753. In the Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall), you will find another astonishing piece of art high above your head: the painters and stucco workers created numerous amazing effects and visual illusions in this ceiling painting. The Hofkirche (Court Chapel) was constructed around 1750 in the southwestern wing of the Residence and can be easily missed because it was so seamlessly and smoothly integrated into the building’s facade. On the inside, the chapel is a masterpiece of Baroque art: altar paintings by Tiepolo, stucco, gold, spiral columns and an abundance of marble create an air of royal splendor. The princebishop who ordered the chapel’s construction was adamant it not mar the overall view of the Residence, so architect Balthasar Neumann used every trick in the book to discretely “vanish” the indispensable, but distracting, church spire. While still visible when viewed from Theaterstraße, it becomes smaller the closer you get to the building, until it seems to have vanished completely. Deep beneath the Residence is the Staatliche Hofkeller (www. hofkeller.de) – one of the most beautiful wine cellars in the world. www.residenzwuerzburg.de

shopping Weineck Julius Echter In the tasting room, you are treated to the wide range of excellent wines from Juliusspital winery, which was founded in 1576 and which cultivates vineyards in Franconia’s prime winegrowing locations. Koellikerstr. 1/2 | www.juliusspital.de

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places of interest

Bamberg Bamberg (population ~72,000) is also known as the Franconian Rome for its seven hills, as the Franconian Prague for its city palaces, and the Franconian Venice for its many idyllic rivers. But above all, Bamberg is the lively hub of Upper Franconia. 2,000 houses and properties in the city have been declared historic monuments. The old town, a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1993, is a fascinating maze of alleys, squares, palaces, statues, and fountains. In the labyrinth of small alleyways, passages, and narrow streets between the Baroque fronts of the buildings, it is easy to lose orientation. Here is a tip: If the direction you are taking is mostly uphill, you will eventually reach the impressive buildings around the Cathedral. If you are walking downhill, you will quickly get to one of the many bridges and jetties offering amazing views across the Regnitz, and which will lead you to the old craftsmen’s district. The Sandviertel (sand district) at the foot of the Domberg is a popular meeting point for students and young people. Many of the pubs, wine taverns, and restaurants have atmospheric vaulted cellars. The Sandkerwa, a tumultuous folk festival held in the old town in August, derives its name from this quarter. On your wanderings through Bamberg, you will frequently encounter the poet E. T. A. Hoffman, creator of fantastically bizarre tales. Hoffmann lived and worked in the city from 1808 to 1813. Much of what he experienced here – unrequited love and the Apfelweibla (old apple seller) – he processed in his literature.

places of interest old town h The old town lies on the so-called Insel-

stadt (island city) between the two arms of the Regnitz river that flow around the Domberg. Here, you will find the majority of the approximately 2,000 houses in Bamberg that were declared protected monuments. One of them is the Böttingerhaus, a beautiful Rococo palace in Judenstraße. Another impressive sight is the Baroque Karmelitenkloster (www.karmeliten.de/orte/bamberg) with its sandstone facade. Located at the Kaulberg, it was built in 1273 and comprehensively reconstructed in the eighteenth century. Do not miss out on the beautiful Romanesque cloister. bamberg cathedral h The high gates with their wrought-iron ornaments are certainly a sight to behold, and the interior is no less impressive. The cathedral, with its four towers, was built between the eras of Romanticism and Gothic and impresses with its extraordinary atmosphere and untreated sandstone brickwork. Right in front of the eastern chancel lies the tomb created by Tilman Riemenschneider. Therein are laid to rest the remains of the cathedral’s benefactor Holy Roman Emperor Henry II (973 to 1024) and his wife Kunigunde (980 to 1033). You will find the Marienalter carved by Veit Stoß (1447 to 1533) in the side chapel. The Bamberger Reiter (Horseman of Bamberg) from the thirteenth century is one of the oldest equestrian statues of the Middle Ages. To this day, two questions have not been answered: Who does the statue depict? And why? Behind the richly decorated bishop’s chair in the west chancel lies the only tomb north of the Alps in which a pope is interred: Pope Clemens II (1005 to 1047). www.bamberger-dom.de Klein-Venedig (Little Venice) Along the bank of the Regnitz are the houses of the Bamberg fishermen who

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BAMBERG

City Hall of Bamberg

called this quarter their own from the fourteenth century on. Timber-framed homes, small river gardens, fishing nets, and barges create the Franconian-Venetian atmosphere that also gives the quarter its name. z y The most beautiful view of Little Venice can be had from the a quayside „Am Leintritt“ on the opposite bank. NEUE RESIDENZ (NEW RESIDENCE) The residence (1613 to 1703), with its four wings, is located opposite the Alte Hofhaltung and contains elements from both the Renaissance and Baroque eras. It was once the seat of the prince-bishops. Today, it houses the Staatsgalerie (State Gallery) with many Late Gothic masterpieces. The Kaisersaal (Imperial hall) is particularly impressive with its paintings that create the illusion of stucco. With its 4,500 rose bushes and Baroque sandstone statues, the Rosengarten (rose garden) is a beautiful sight to behold. Domplatz 8 | www.residenz-bamberg.de E.T.A.HOFFMANN’S HOUSE You can reach the narrow building at Schil-

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lerplatz 26 via the Nonnenbrücke. This house was home to the poet from 1809 to 1813. Hoffmann often wrote under the influence of alcohol, and the z y hole in the corner through which he had punch handed to him is testament to that. The writer was forced to leave the city in 1813 after falling in love with Bamberg resident Julia Mark, who was only 15 years old. Schillerplatz 26 | www.etahg.de

SHOPPING You can get the Apfelweibla in a variety of shops and made from different materials and ingredients. If you have a sweet tooth, you might want to visit Haus zur Trommel (Judenstr. 17). KRÄUTERGÄRTNEREI MUSSÄROL g Do you like licorice? If you do, you should visit the organic nursery and taste-test some of the z y licorice Bamber was once famous for. The roots of the plant are not just used to make tasty treats. They are also often an ingredient in remedies. Nürnberger Str. 86 | www.biokraeuter.info

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PALCES OF INTEREST

NUREMBERG Once the richest city of the High Middle Ages with many trade routes throughout the world, it is today a modern metropolis (population ~500,000). Much is still preserved from the High Middle Ages in the city center. The city wall and its giant towers, the castle with its distinctive walls, donjon, and pitched roofs rising high above the city, and the large and ornate Patrician houses around the castle hill tell a story of the success and wealth of Nuremberg’s merchants and nobles in the Middle Ages. The Nuremberg Rally Grounds and courtroom number 600 also grant an insight into the darker episodes of the city’s

Nürnberger Bratwurst

history, as this is where the NSDAP held its annual rallies and where the race laws of 1935 and later were passed. This is also where the Nuremberg trials took place, during which war criminals such as Hermann Göring were sentenced to death between 1946 and 1948. The metropolitan region of Nuremberg, of which the city is the center, is one of the most important economic regions in Europe.

PLACES OF INTEREST HOUSE OF ALBRECHT DÜRER Today’s multimedia age makes it pos-

sible for Dürer’s wife Agnes to guide you through the Renaissance artist’s household. The many rooms – faithfully recreated with iron stoves, carved furniture, and, above all, a dark, sooty kitchen – take you on a trip 500 years back in time. The workshop has daily printing presentations, during which visitors can create their own prints to take home as souvenirs. Albrecht-Dürer-Str. 39 | www.museen. nuernberg.de/duererhaus yz CASTLE HILL Something even some Nuremberg citizens do not know: the castle hill is riddled with tunnels. Up to 15 meters below ground is a network of rooms and corridors dating over several centuries. Most of them were used as beer cellars, but also as hideouts. During WW II, many people found shelter from the numerous bombardments in the old cellars. The Förderverein Nürnberger Felsengänge organizes guided tours through this fascinating underground warren. Bergstr. 19 | www.felsengaenge-nuernberg.de NUREMBERG DB MUSEUM The legendary “Adler” was the first steam engine on German railways and is the museum’s centerpiece. On three floors, the museum takes you on a fascinating trip through time, from the early beginnings of railroad travel to today. The “Adler” also undertakes tourist trips between Nuremberg and Fürth. Lessingstr. 6 | www. dbmuseum.de DOCUMENTATION CENTER NAZI PARTY RALLY GROUNDS h In the giant, horseshoe-shaped complex of the Rally Grounds, an audio tour guides you through the exhibit “Fascination and Terror” and explains the means by which the Nazi government used architecture and large events to indoctrinate the masses. In

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Nuremburg addition to this permanent exhibition, the museum also offers regularly changing exhibitions on the Third Reich. Bayernstr. 110 | www.museen.nuernberg.de/dokuzentrum Germanisches Nationalmuseum h It is simply impossible to see the complete, world-famous collection housed the old Nuremberg Charterhouse in a single visit. The museum displays paintings by Dürer, sculptures by Ernest Barlach and Joseph Beuys, a vast hall with swords, shields and armor for horse and rider, as well as one of the most distinguished collections of historical musical instruments. It also gives a comprehensive review of the history of fashion and folk art in the German-speaking regions of the world. The impressive huge historical paintings depicting ancient battles and the collection of antique medical appliances are worth a visit, too. With 300,000 pages, the graphic arts collection is the largest of its kind in Europe. Kartäusergasse 1 | www.gnm.de IMPERIAL CASTLE a The path up to the castle (eleventh century) may be steep, but the view of the old city and the craftsmen’s quarter is certainly worth it. You can also visit the round, massive Sinwell Tower on a guided tour. Next door, the imperial stables were once housed beneath the large roof with its many dormer windows. Today, the building is a hostel. The Imperial Castle museum is home to a collection of ordnance, halberds, and firearms. Auf der Burg 13 Schöner Brunnen It is quite a feat to find the gold brass ring among the vibrant Gothic decorations of the Schöner Brunnen (late fourteenth century) on the main market. Gold-plated saints with lances and croziers tower

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above on the almost 20 meter high fountain, distracting the seeker from the prize – the ring that is said to bring luck to those who touch and spin it. According to legend, spinning it once grants three wishes. Those who spin the ring three times are blessed with a wealth of children. Nuremberg Zoo Dolphins glide through the water, African lions doze next to Siberian Tigers in the rocky compound: this is Nuremberg Zoo, one of the most beautiful landscape zoos in Germany, with 2,500 animals over 70 hectares. The shows in the dolphinarium (daily at 11 a.m. and 2 and 4 p.m.) are an all-time favorite with visitors. Since 2011, the zoo is home to a dolphin lagoon – the first outdoor habitat for dolphins in Germany. It is a great playground. Am Tiergarten 30 | www.tiergarten.nuernberg.de

shopping You can find the large department stores in Kaiserstraße, Königsstraße, and Breite Gasse. The former workers’ quarter Gostenhof (www.ingoho.de) north of the old city is also known as “Goho” (in reference to New York’s famous Soho neighborhood). Here you will find a thriving cultural and economic life, comprising of galleries, designer shops, studios, and clubs between Turkish grocery stores and alternative cafés. If you wish to take a break from shopping, you can rest and enjoy a red beer and a hearty meal in the small brewery with adjacent beer garden: Brauerei Schanzenbräu (AdamKlein-Str. 27 | www.schanzenbraeu.de). Handwerkerhof Nuremburg For fans of traditional craftsmanship: At Handwerkhof, you can watch gingerbread bakers and potters at work. If you want a memento of your visit, the most beautiful works are also available to purchase as souvenirs. Königstor | www.handwerkerhof.de

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WELCOME TO BAVARIA! The forests of southeastern Bavaria, also known as the Green Roof of Europe, are an inviting holiday region offering fascinating contrasts. The continentâ€™s largest forest region includes the Bavarian Forest and Bohemian Forest national parks with nature and cultural treasures waiting to be discovered. Among these are unfathomable depths, peaceful forests, wild ravines and streams, summer meadows and mysterious upland moors. The 200-million-year-old peaks remain to this day a carefully developed hiking paradise. A network of paths and routes crisscross the region, with 300 km in the German National Park alone, plus 660 km along the Goldsteig.

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PLACES OF INTEREST

REGENSBURG Mainly spared the ravages of war and time, Regensburg’s city center (population ~144,000) is the very last remaining Medieval city in Germany. The city, its cathedral (Bishopric established in 739) and its Stone Bridge, which was considered a world wonder in the Middle Ages, gained status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2006. Today, the university and technical college city is a center of modern industry. At the same time, however, Regensburg is a living museum of architectural and art landmarks from the second to the twentyfirst centuries.

Bridge Gate and Cathedral

PLACES OF INTEREST STONE BRIDGE h It took from 1135 until 1146 to build the 336 meter bridge with its 16 arches (of which 15 are still visible) over both arms of the Danube. The “scorned world wonder” is in bad shape, primarily under at-

tack from melting snow with a high content of de-icing salt. Arch XII has come close to collapsing. But perhaps it’s the devil seeking his revenge because the bridge’s building master once doublecrossed him. According to legend, the bridge architect made a bet with the cathedral architect that his bridge would be finished before the cathedral. To ensure success, he sought Satan’s help, promising him three souls. The architect won, but the devil had to make do with a rooster, a hen, and a dog. ST. EMMERAM h As was not unusual in the past: Saint Emmeram was murdered and the duke had him buried outside the city in 685. His grave became a pilgrimage destination and from the site grew a monastery. The monastery became powerful enough to split away from the Hochstift. Since 1812 it has served as the Princely Palace of the Thurn and Taxis family that, along with the cloister, is today partially open to the public. Impressive are the ballroom and library with ceiling fresco (1737) by Cosmas Damian Asam. The Princely Treasure Chamber may be visited separately. St. Emmeramsplatz | www.thurnundtaxis.de OLD CITY HALL Today the building, whose oldest wing is from the thirteenth century, houses the Document Reichstag exhibition. The expansive Reichssaal has a woodcut ceiling from 1408 for viewing. Rathausplatz REGENSBURG CATHEDRAL Work has been continuing on the cathedral since 1275. With its two impressive towers (105 m), a facade rich with figure work, and an interior that captivates with its artworks, spaciousness, and stained glass windows (fourteenth cen-

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Passau

tradition In many places it is the old who strictly ensure that the young preserve history and stories. Those who do not want to play an extra in a local pageant, like grandfather and father did, have only one choice: to leave. Many traditions are shaped by religion, often with their roots throughout old Bavaria, such as shaking the clattering wooden rattles on Good Friday when the church bells fall silent. In great secular contrast to this is the stealing of the bride, when the wedding guests whisk the bride away to another tavern and keep on drinking until the groom frees

her. Young village residents meet at the war memorial or the bench where their grandparents got to know each other years before. From there the men – almost all of them in the volunteer fire brigade, the female equivalent being the Catholic Women’s League – move on to their favorite inn. Women have long since joined their ranks or established their own regular meetups. Also found everywhere are singing and folk music clubs, as well as theater groups, which spend the year rehearsing a piece to perform a few times – usually in the parish hall.

tury), it is a principal Gothic work in Bavaria. The cathedral cloister features fantastic funerary monuments and the Domschatzmuseum (cathedral treasure museum) includes delights from throughout the centuries. In summer an yz organ concert can be enjoyed every Wednesday evening (www. domorgel-regeurg.de). The cathedral complex – alongside the cathedral is the Church of St. Ulrich – is home to interesting chapels and architectural monuments. Domplatz

Passau

Museum of Bavarian History Building work on the new museum began in 2015. At the time of press, its planned opening was May 2018. According to the 22 million euro concept, the foyer will connect the old city to the Danube and integrate Hunnenplatz. The Österreicher Stadel (a landmarked warehouse) will also be integrated to house the museum’s portfolio. The ground floor will be freely accessible as an appetizer for the exhibition. Donaumarkt

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Passau (population ~50,000) is today a dazzling city. The global economy, the Rhine-Main-Danube waterway, and students have been bringing the conservative provincial backwater to life since the eighties. Today Passau is a multicultural city with a modern local government. Unmissable is the facetted, 2000-year history of the cathedral city. Its location at the meeting point between the Inn, Danube and the Ilz has contributed to its nickname as “Three Rivers City” and the “Venice of Bavaria”. The eastern expansion of the EU and the disappearance of border controls to Austria and the Czech Republic have ensured that the city is situated at the navel of Europe’s economic life. The city center has been revamped as the “New Center” with a business tower block, car park, central bus station, multiplex cinema, fountains, park and a chic city gallery.

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places of interest places of interest St. Stephen’s Cathedral h The mother church of St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna is a Passau landmark enthroned above the old city. The chancel, transept and crossing tower are late Gothic. The nave is the largest baroque cathedral construction north of the Alps. Next to the window, yz cherub legs protrude from the image in the crossing dome: a baroque illusion by the painter Tencalla – as does the hand on the balustrade left of the northern lateral doorway. Enjoy a concert played on the world’s largest Catholic church organ. Domplatz Oberhausmuseum h A branch of the municipal gallery, the Oberhaus Museum’s theme-based exhibitions on the salt trade, guilds and craftsmanship, the Bohemian Forest, fire department and more are popular across the regions. Immediately above the museum, you can enjoy the probably best view of the city from the a Batterie Linde and the terrace of the Das Oberhaus pub. A bus commutes each half hour between the city hall and Georgsberg from 10 a.m. www.oberhausmuseum.de Niedernburg Monastery The monastery near the highest point of the area was first mentioned in 888 and enjoyed its golden age as an imperial abbey from 1010. It suffered badly in the city fires of 1662 and 1680: Of the three monastery churches, the main church of St. Pantaleon and the Holy Cross remain; the Parz chapel keeps the grave of St. Gisela, the former abbess and first queen of Hungary. For a long time, English women ran a school for girls here. Due to a lack of replacements their numbers have dwindled and the run-

ning of the school must continue without them. Place of interest: Roman frescoes and the Roman portal, formerly in the church of St. Marien, now in the school hall. Klosterwinkel Diocesan Museum Just inside and to the right in St. Stephen’s Cathedral is a spiral staircase leading to the prince-bishop’s treasure chamber with a video library and displays (also accessible via the new residence). Freudenhain The early classicist summer castle in Hacklberg was built in 1785 on the order of Cardinal Josef Graf von Auersperg. The grounds include a rococo garden in an English park. Today it is home to a high school for music. Glass museum Assembled by Georg Höltl, the collection includes over 30,000 exhibits of Bohemian glass art from over 250 years in Hotel Wilder Mann on Rathausplatz. It is the world’s largest collection of its kind. Even the first man on the moon, Neil Armstrong, was here: He opened the museum in 1985! Höllgasse 1 | www.glasmuseum.de Hals Formerly ruled by a dynasty of earls, it is today incorporated into Passau. The castle is in disrepair. The town hall at the marketplace is preserved with its pillories. This is where Franz Lehar composed Wiener Frauen. Strolling along the right bank of the Ilz to Hals reveals country living in the city. The route from the farm over to the cattle track barrier is picturesque. Museum of Modern Art The Wörlen Foundation dedicates three

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PASSAU

St. Stephen’s Cathedral

stories in the old city on the Danube waterfront to world class artists. Riverside windows offer a fantastic view of the Veste and the suspension bridge. Bräugasse 17 | www.mmk-passau.de NEUE-MITTE-TURM The hotly discussed architecturally and colorful, 38 m high, granite shale green building is actually supposed to become even higher. For now, the top floor offers a a café with an unbeatable panoramic view of the city. The tables on the Inn side have a great view of the old city and river Inn estuary. Nibelungenplatz OBERHAUS Building work began on Veste Oberhaus as a counter castle for the prince bishops in 1219. In 1298, 1367 and 1387 the city’s residents rose up against the bishops. Peace returned in 1443 with an arbitration ruling in which Passau recognized their sovereignty. It wasn’t until secularization in 1803 that new governance in the form of citizen self-rule was introduced.

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CITY HALL The City Hall with Bavaria’s biggest carrilon had to be founded three times. The people first stood against it in 1298 in the long battle against the prince bishop and it was immediately cannoned by Oberhaus. Frescoes by the historical painter Ferdinand Wagner (1890) illustrate the city’s history in the halls of the city hall. Schrottgasse MARIAHILF PILGRIMAGE CHURCH a Another Passau landmark, it was built from 1624–27 on the right bank of the river Inn. In 1683, Emperor Leopold I prayed here during the siege of Vienna by the Turks. Its liberation succeeded with the battle cry “Maria hilf!” (“Help us Virgin Mary!”). This is how the Mariahilf icon became the state image of mercy of the Habsburger monarchy. Looking like a balcony perpendicular to the monastery is the ceiling over the 321 steps of the pilgrims’ staircase. From there you have a wonderful and extensive view of the city. Mariahilfberg

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WELCOME TO AUSTRIA! Austria is one huge cultural treasure chest and jewel of nature in equal measures. This makes vacations here extremely varied as the grand culture and enchanting nature often lie close to each other: the baroque monastery in the Alps National Park, the prehistoric salt mine on the shore of an idyllic lake, the Medieval castle in the midst of dense forest. And so that no one is forced to go hungry during an excursion, there are first-class refreshment opportunities almost everywhere, from traditional to trendy, which are more often than not found at the most wonderful places. The mentality of the people also means that you can enjoy everything in peace, thanks to the relaxed pace of the Austrians, who donâ€™t like to be rushed, and which is highly catching.

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Linz

Linz The main square of the Upper Austrian state capital (population ~201,600) is lined with baroque facades and ornamented with the impressive Trinity column (1723) in the center. Despite being one of the biggest built-up squares in Europe, the real attraction of Linz lies in its recent history as an industrial and, more recently, cultural metropolis. In 2009, Linz was the European Capital of Culture.

places of interest Ars Electronica Center h The interactive exhibitions are about people and their environment. From various perspectives, they ask questions such as, how have our lives evolved? How do they look today? How could they look in the future? Particularly wonderful is the animated facade which lights up every evening. Ars-Electronica-Str. 1 | www. aec.at Main Square The giant square in the heart of the city is lined by impressive houses, mostly baroque, and is one of the biggest in the whole of Austria. In its center is a 20 m, richly decorated Trinity column in opulent baroque style (1723). House number 18 has a glockenspiel. Lentos Art Museum The museum with the austere facade of glass and cement is located directly at the Danube. It is home to a considerable collection of works of classic modern art, including by Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele, Oskar Kokoschka and Max Pechstein, as well as contemporary paintings by Maria Lassnig, Arnulf Rainer, Markus

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Lüpertz and more. Temporary exhibitions also show international young art. ErnstKoref-Promenade 1 | www.lentos.at Pöstlingberg a The forested town of Pöstlingberg with its distinguished pilgrimage church sits above the town as its landmark. The historical cable car is the steepest on the continent, taking you up in 20 minutes. Those wishing to may also exit at the halfway station to visit Linz zoo. Landgutstr. 19 Schlossmuseum Linz a Austria’s biggest universal museum. With permanent exhibitions on nature and technology, as well as temporary exhibitions. Unforgettable is the view from the terrace over the roofs of the houses. Schlossberg 1 | www.landesmuseum.at Voestalpine Stahlwelt Multimedia, interactive exhibition on steel. A tour of the plant is the chance to see yz steel production up close. Voest-Alpine-Str. 4 | www.voestalpine.com/ stahlwelt

shopping The main road leading from the station to the main square is the city’s shopping street, with big stores and covered arcades; smaller specialized stores and boutiques are also found in the side alleys. The perfect gift to bring when visiting friends is Linzer Torte (pastry with redcurrant jam), which can be purchased in attractive wrapping at the Bäckerei Hofmann (Landstr. 27), among other places. On Fridays between 9 a.m. and 2 p.m. is a g farmer’s market on Linz’s main square. On Saturday’s between 7 a.m. and 2 p.m. is a flea market.

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PLACES OF INTEREST

SALZBURG Salzburg (population ~152,000) is the home of Mozart and Jedermann and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Salzburg means huge churches and magnificent palaces, narrow alleyways and quiet corners. Looking out from the fortress or from the museum of modern art’s terrace at Mönchsberg is a good way to see the beauty of the city and its surrounding area. It was salt that gave the region and city its name. Christian missionaries settled where Celts and Romans already had their places of worship. The prince bishops then made the city into what it is, particularly Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau, who gave it its baroque flair.

PLACES OF INTEREST HOHENSALZBURG CASTLE h Enthroned upon dolomite at a height

of 199 meters, it was built out over 600 years to become one of the biggest castles of central Europe. A highlight are the magnificent rooms, which are among the most beautiful Gothic secular rooms in Europe. www.salzburg-burgen.at MOZART’S PLACE OF BIRTH h The yellow house on Getreidegasse is a pilgrimage site for Mozart lovers. Here, Wolfgang Amadeus was born on January 27, 1756. The former apartment contains original musical instruments, such as Mozart’s children’s violin and clavichord, as well as furniture, paintings and copies of letters. Getreidegasse 9 CATHEDRAL Built by Santino Solari, the early Baroque building holds over 10,000 people. Eyecatching is the bright interior design, which is underscored by the 75 meter high dome. The facade, with its two towers, is an impressive backdrop for perfor-

View of the City of Salzburg

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Salzburg

Hohe Tauern National Park Natural, untouched wild Alpine landscapes and mountain farming regions kept over the centuries are the two faces of Austria’s first national park. It opened in 1981 and has been successively expanded to become the largest nature reserve throughout the Alps. 1856 km² of protected, connected areas range through the federal states of Carinthia, Salzburg and Tyrol. The area includes around 10,000

species of animals and 1,800 species of plants, from chamois and golden eagles to black vanilla orchids. Hohe Tauern National Park is special in that from the basin on the valley to its highest point 3000 meters above sea level it encompasses a huge variety of habitats. Its wildest parts appear untouched. Even Hollywood has been here to film parts of Seven Years in Tibet.

mances of the play Jedermann. Residenzplatz/Kapitelplatz

famous heart of the palace. www.hellbrunn.at

Domquartier A tour (with audio guide) leads you from the magnificent rooms of the prince bishops’ Alte Residenz to the arcades to the Cathedral (Dom), in whose side oratories there are now special exhibitions and treasures of the Dom museum on view. The tour continues to the art and curiosity chambers, to the Baroque paintings of the Lange Galerie and to the precious art treasures of the monastic Museums St. Peter. After looking at the Gothic chancel of Franziskanerkirche, the tour ends in the splendid Carabinieri Saal of the Residenz. Residenzplatz 1 | www.domquartier.at

Museum der Moderne Art from the twentieth and twenty-first centuries is displayed in two locations, curated in thematic and monographic exhibitions: in the baroque Rupertinum of the old city, as well as in the spectacular new building at a Mönchsberg high above the roofs of the city. The architecture itself is absolutely worth seeing. Wiener Philharmoniker Gasse 9 and Mönchsberg 32 | www.museumdermoderne.at

Hellbrunn Palace h It was commissioned in 1612 by Salzburg’s prince bishop Markus Sittikus von Hohenems. As a lover of Italian art and culture, he entrusted the cathedral builder Santino Solari with the task. The water is a defining design element, hidden in the shade of trees and bushes or leaping forth from carefully concealed hideaways. The fountains are the world-

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Salzburg Museum Neue Residenz The former guest palace of Wolf Dietrich is on the western side of Residenzplatz. The permanent exhibition in the magnificent rooms focuses on Salzburg’s history, art and culture since the beginning of the modern era. Mozartplatz 1 | www. salzburgmuseum.at

shopping Many traditional manufactures, from liquor producers to confectioners, are located in the romantic inner courtyards

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places of interest around Getreidegasse. Particularly long standing are, for example, Schirmhandel und -manufaktur Kirchtag in Getreidegasse, Alte fürsterzbischöfliche Hofapotheke on Alte Markt, Schokoladenfachgeschäft Holzermayr, Knopferlmayer on Rathausplatz, Leder- und Trachtenbekleidung Jahn-Markl, and Konditorei Schatz. However, before going shopping, remember to fill your wallet – Salzburg is expensive.

Wachau Around 30 km between Melk and Krems is a narrow breakthrough valley of the Danube, creating one of Europe’s most beautiful river valleys. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Wachau is characterized by vineyards, idyllic wine villages that have retained their Medieval heritage, apricot gardens and impressive castles and monasteries. The most important sights include a the ruin of Aggstein Castle (www.ruineaggstein.at), which sits 300 meters high on a narrow cliff over the north bank. Weissenkirchen (www.weissenkirchen.at), with its fortified church and Teisenhoferhof is one of the region’s most beautiful Renaissance courts and certainly worth stopping at. Spitz is a picturesque market town which has a vibrant Marillenkirtag festival on the second to last weekend of July each year. The crowning glory of any tour of Wachau is Dürnstein. The view of the water is stunning. You can also escape the many tourists in Dürnstein by climbing up to the a castle where Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned in the twelfth century. The Gothic ossuaries, the Medieval pillories, and the abbey church are worth seeing there. On hot days, you can swim in the Danube in stunning scenery, such as at Rührsdorf in Rossatz (west of central Rossatz). You

can park on the side lane, walk over the bridge, and arrive at beautiful beach in two minutes.

vienna “We may not have an emperor anymore, but we still have the crown jewels.” This saying reflects how Vienna regards its grand role in history. The Vienna of today distinguishes itself through its vibrant music, musical and theater scene. There is also a wide range of cuisine and countless restaurants, cafés and bars, called Beisl here, contributing to the unmistakable face of the city. Over recent years the inner city has flourished and is increasingly becoming a luxurious area. The districts around it have discarded all the gray to become a young, urban, and vibrant scene. Public transport will take you right through the city. (www.wienerlinien.at)

places of interest Albertina Albertina is a visitor magnet among museums. The collection, which goes back to Duke Albert von Sachsen-Teschen, includes 50,000 drawings and 1 million print graphics from Late Gothic to the present day. Dürer’s Betende Hände and Hase are part of the collection, but not always on display. A highlight is the permanent exhibition Monet to Picasso from the Batliner collection. Also worth seeing are the rare classicist staterooms of the city palace house in the museum. Albertinaplatz 3 | www.al bertina.at Belvedere h A must for every visitor is the former summer castle of Prince Eugen. The ex-

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VIENNA

Belvedere

pansive ground with two palaces is not only a masterpiece by Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt, it is one of the most grandiose Baroque creations in existence. The a Obere Belvedere (1721–23) enthroned on a hill places all of Vienna at the viewer’s feet and was built for state functions by the general from Savoy and the hero of the war against the Turks. The elongated, masterfully organized building houses to this day a gallery of Austrian art in lavishly furnished rooms. At the forefront are local classics from the Biedermeier (Ferdinand Georg Waldmüller, Rudolf von Alt), Late Romantic and Gründerzeit (Leopold Kupelwieser, Hans Makart), art nouveau, expressionism and post-war periods (Egon Schiele, Oskar Kokoschka). Moreover, excellent works by international artists are also on view, including Caspar David Friedrich, Claude Monet, Vincent van Gogh, Emil Nolde and Edvard Munch. The visitor magnet is Gustav Klimt, whose work Der Kuss is one of the most important works of art nouveau. However, the Baroque Collection

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and Medieval masterpieces also have their place. The “Noble Knight” lived in the Untere Belvedere (1714–16), an only slightly more modest building that also has a marble hall lushly decorated with frescoes and stuccowork, as well as a hall of mirrors and a splendid gallery. The neighboring Orangerie houses temporary exhibitions of classic modern and contemporary art. In the nearby gorgeous stables are permanently displayed Medieval works. Between both castles stretches a 500 meter garden that has been reconstructed in the original Baroque style. Prinz-Eugen-Str. 27 | Rennweg 6 | www.belvedere.at HOFBURG h No other building epitomizes the power of the House of Habsburg more clearly than Hofburg. Hofburg is a palace-like complex of buildings that developed over centuries in the heart of Vienna. Today, the offices of the president and congress reside there among the many staterooms and museums. The national library with the fascinating and magni-

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PLACES OF INTEREST ficent reading hall is also housed there, along with the riding school, palace chapel (in which the Vienna Boys’ Choir performs on Sundays at High Mass), the silver chamber and the treasure chamber that displays the throne of the emperor of the Holy Roman Empire along with treasures of the Order of the Golden Fleece. During the time of their regency,

MUSEUMSQUARTIER h MQ for short, the museum complex is among the ten largest cultural centers in the world. Numerous independent cultural initiatives are held here, but are always in the shadow of the two internationally renowned museums: Museum Leopold (www.leopoldmuseum.org) displays a panorama of Austrian art from the end of the nineteenth century, with the largest Egon Schiele collection in the world and excellent works by Gustav Klimt. The MuMok (Museum Moderner Kunst Stiftung Ludwig – www.mumok.at) is home to rotating special shows of pieces from the extensive collection of international twentieth century art. The cafés and sofas of the MQ’s interior courtyard have attained cult status and there are regular free events. www.mqw.at NASCHMARKT Vienna’s Naschmarkt is a market with a long history, but today few fruit and vegetables are sold there. The old stores have been inhabited by chic bars and delis. The Naschmarkt is Vienna’s dining mile and you can breakfast here until 4 p.m. A vibrant flea market is held here Saturdays.

Naschmarkt

each Habsburg ruler occupied different premises than his predecessor. The former chambers of Sisi in the Amalia Residence are a highlight, particularly the dressing and exercise room of the eccentric empress.

SCHÖNBRUNN h The stretched, sun-yellow Baroque castle is among the most beautiful of its kind in Europe. The imperial summer residence has 40 of its 1441 magnificent rooms open to the public. Further attractions are the Baroque gardens with the a Gloriette as a look-out point, as well as the palm house and the oldest zoo in the world. Planning a whole day for your visit is recommended. www.schoenbrunn. at | www.zoovienna.at PRATER The huge public park draws the crowds

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vienna with its famous a Ferris wheel (61 m diameter), ultra-modern rollercoasters and flight simulators. It is encircled by a large local recreation area. St. Stephen’s Cathedral The basic shape of St. Stephen’s Cathedral was created when the second Roman Catholic church was built at the start of the thirteenth century, before later becoming a Gothic cathedral. The main gate, the two Roman Towers and the Western Gallery originate from this period. The Southern Tower was completed in 1433. At a height of 136.7 meters, it was the tallest church tower in Europe for a while, and remains the tallest in Austria to this day. An elevator ascends to the a viewing platform that offers a fantastic panoramic view of the whole city. The Pummerin is considered the aural landmark of Vienna and is only heard on high holidays and special occasions. Ringstrasse h After Emperor Franz Joseph I ordered Vienna’s old fortifications to be demolished in 1857, he commissioned a magnificent boulevard in their place. This encircles the historical city center and leads to two points along the bank of the Danube canal at Franz Josef Quay. The 4.4 km ring road is lined with many splendid private and public buildings in the “ring road style”. They all imitate the architectural styles of earlier periods, from Greco-Roman to Cathedral Gothic and Renaissance and Baroque to all kinds of style combinations from historicism. Inaugurated in 1865, this architectural work of art know as the Ring remains unparalleled throughout Europe. Following Ringstrasse, pedestrians must occasionally share the sidewalk with cyclists.

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Karlskirche Vienna’s most important Baroque church with a dome rising 72 meters high. Building work was begun by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach and finished by his son Joseph Emanuel. The fountain stands in exciting contrast to the facade with a sculpture of Henry Moore. Kunsthaus “All about Hundertwasser” is the motto of the general hall in which the world’s only permanent exhibition of the marvelous realist Friedensreich Hundertwasser is kept. Untere Weissgerberstr. 13 | www. kunsthauswien.at Kunsthistorisches Museum Built by Gottfried Semper and opened in 1891, the building houses the famous painting gallery of Venetian, Flemish, Old Dutch and Old German painting from the fifteenth to seventeenth centuries. It is also home to an art chamber displaying the collected knowledge of its time – occasionally in curious ways. Maria-Theresien-Platz | www.khm.at

shopping The best and most expensive addresses are in Kohlmarkt and am Graben, the neighboring Golden Quarter (Tuchlauben/ Bognergasse/Am Hof), and Kärntner Strasse. Slightly cheaper is Innere Mariahilfer Strasse between the Museumsquartier U2 station and Westbahnhof. There are large department stores and many international fashion chains. Between Mariahilfer Strasse and Spittelberg, where artisan wares are sold, is the home of the local fashion avant-garde. z y Shopping tours run by yz have stylists to help you find what you’re looking for (www.7tm. at). Antiques are found in the narrow alleyways of the first district.

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WELCOME TO SLOVAKIA! The mention of Slovakia still causes most western Europeans to ponder, was it part of Yugoslavia or former Czechoslovakia? Slovakia still remains one of the least known countries of Central Europe, which most people suspect is somewhere in the east. Even for Germans living in the north it is a single day’s drive and has much to offer tourists beyond the capital city Bratislava and the picturesque High Tatras mountain range. And indeed, Slovakia now welcomes almost as many tourists as it has inhabitants – with more than four million in 2015. Tourism is one of the country’s most flourishing industries, bringing in foreign capital of more than two billion euros a year. The main attractions for foreign visitors are the untouched nature, the hospitality of the Slovakians and the fact that, apart from beaches and sea, all the different types of central European countryside is found there. Most visitors come from the neighboring countries of Czech Republic and Poland.

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Bratislava

Bratislava When arriving from the west, the Slovakian capital also displays the obligatory prefab housing estates. The Petržalka district, with a population of 130,000, has become a city within a city. In contrast, the almost fully restored historical city center at the foot of the castle seems actually small. The castle mound served as a fortified outpost as far back as the time of the Romans. In the early Middle Ages, the German colonists arrived; in 1291, the Germanspeaking Pressburg received city status. As the Hungarian Pozsony, the city became the capital after the Ottomans occupied Buda in 1526. Some successors to the throne, including Maria Theresia, were crowned the ruler of Hungary here. After 1918, the city received its Slovakian name, but the multicultural life of the city continued until 1945. Many of the old inhabitants were driven out or left voluntarily. The Jewish community of Bratislava was decimated during the war. With the arrival of Communist rule (1948– 89), not only did the facades and historical value of the city suffer, people’s lives became drearier too. The situation is very different today. The capital (population ~465,000) earns the title “young” not only because the country only received autonomy in 1993. The flourishing economy, several universities and vibrant cultural scene are mainly drawing the young here. Cafés, bars and restaurants are sprouting up everywhere. Bratislava, the political, economic and cultural center of the country, is well on its way to becoming a livable, modern city in the heart of Europe.

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places of interest yz Blue Church (Modrý Kostolík) This unusual church (1910-13) is outside of the old city, but still central. In gaudy swimming-pool blue, and decorated outside with tiles of the same color, this is an original example of traditional art nouveau. Bezručova ul. Bratislava Castle (Bratislavský Hrad) h a The angular castle sits atop a cliff with its four towers over the old city. The first documented mention of it dates back to 907. However, archeologists have found evidence of a much older construction at this strategically important position along the Danube (2500 BC). The foundation for today’s building is a construction from the fifteenth century. After the relocation of the Hungarian government to here, it was “modernized” and fortified. Still impressive today is the generous Baroque staircase. The southwestern, widest tower, became the Royal Tower, where the coronation insignia were kept. Sent as a gift from Hungary, a faithful replica of the Holy Crown of Hungary was returned in the seventies. Today, the castle is home to different museums and it is used by the president and parliament for state visits. Grassalkovič palace (Grassalkovičov Palác) The summer residence of Count Anton Grassalkovič, it was outside the city walls in the past. Now it serves as the president’s office. The Rococo palace was completed in 1760. When the flag flies over the roof, the current occupant is in the country. The park-like gardens are largely open to the public. Access via Štefánikova ul.

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Places Of interest Historical Museum (Historické Múzeum) The headquarters of the historical museum are in the castle. On display are commonly used furnishings and traditional practices. A section is dedicated to historical musical instruments. More significant are the exhibits of the treasure chamber in the basement. A glass cabinet protects the oldest artwork on Slovakian soil: the Venus of Moravany. It is estimated to be 23,000 years old and was carved from a mammoth tusk. Bratislavský Hrad Hummel house (Hummelov Dom) The actual birthplace of the Baroque composer Johann Nepomuk Hummel (1778–1837), who was taught by Mozart, is no longer there. However, the small exhibition on the life and works of the musician are an opportunity to discover the diverse musical scene of Pressburg during earlier centuries in this pretty Renaissance building. Klobučnícka 2 Michael’s Gate (Michalská Brána) The last remaining city gate (thirteenth century) and its tower are a city landmark. Sturdy and well fortified, the tower was renovated from 1753–58, during which is received its delicate Baroque point with a statue of Michael. Accommodated in the tower is an exhibition of Medieval weapons and armor. In the Baroque house of the twin fort gates is a pharmaceutical museum that also displays the inventory of the former pharmacy Lekáreň Červený rak. Michalská ul. 22 Mirbach Palace (Mirbachov Palác) The enchanting Rococo palace with a typical wooden courtyard is home to a display of Baroque paintings and statues. A small treat are two wood panel cabinets

with a collection of French Rococo artworks. Františkánske nám. 11 Primate’s Palace (Primaciálny Palác) The pink stately building on the Primatial square was built from 1777–81 as a city palace for the archbishop of Esztergom and is Slovakia’s biggest classicist building. History was written there in 1805: After the battle of Austerlitz, it was here the representatives of Austria and France signed the Peace of Pressburg. A wall board in the entrance provides information on this. A second branch of the municipal gallery in the Primate’s Palace exhibits tapestries, paintings and sculptures. Primaciálne nám. 1 Slavín a The way to the Slavín memorial is worth it just for the panoramic view of the city and a changing perspective of the neighboring castle. The memorial remembers the almost 7000 Slovakian soldiers who lost their lives liberating Slovakia from the fascist government. The 40 meter granite column with a soldier atop is visible from a distance. The soldier is raising a flag of victory over the conquered territory. Access via the stairs to Na Slavíne street Slovakian National Gallery (Slovenská Národná Galéria) The former water barracks, so named for their location on the Danube, are home to the largest municipal art collection: Slovakian art from the Gothic period to present day. In the adjoining Eszterházy Palace are interesting temporary exhibitions, including of contemporary artists. nám. Ľ. Štúra č. 4 St. Martin’s Cathedral (Dóm sv. Martina) h The cathedral is an old fortified church ad-

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BRATISLAVA

NATIONAL PARKS The oldest and best-known is Tatra National Park (since 1948); second place in size is Low Tatras (1978). Then there are also Pieniny National Park (1967) as well as the Slovak Paradise and smaller Fatra National Park. In the nineties came the Muráň Plateau National Park and the Poloniny National Park on the Polish-Ukrainian border. joining the city wall, which is why its entrance is somewhat hidden. Construction over a previous Roman building began in the fourteenth century, resulting in the three-aisled cathedral. Its significance lies primarily in some of its decorations and its former function as a coronation cathedral. Only the font (1403) remains from the Gothic period. Between 1563 and 1830, eight Hungarian kings and a few spouses were crowned here. The cathedral was decorated in the lush Baroque style to create worthy surroundings for the elaborate ceremonies. However, at the end of the nineteenth century, the decorations were partially removed. Still available to admire today are the chapel of St. John the Merciful and the large sculpture of St. Martin to the right of the altar. Both works are by the Baroque artist Georg Raphael Donner. Rudnayovo nám. 1

SHOPPING A long pedestrian zone around Michalská ulica makes a shopping stroll a pleasure. The municipal arts and crafts center (ÚĹUV | Obchodná 64 | www.uluv.sk) lets you see behind the scenes and even try your hand working different materials. Good music stores for pop, folk and jazz are Artforum (Kozia 20) and Dr. Horák (Medená 19).

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The Malá Fatra National Park has also been made into a natural reserve. The national parks have strict rules. Those who transgress them can face high fines – and park rangers make their rounds daily. Many of the information centers offer guided tours through the most beautiful areas, some of which are blocked to lone visitors.

St. Martin’s Cathedral

For classical music and new music there is Hummel Music (Klobučnícka 2). The wine store Vinotéka Sv. Urbana offers a large selection of domestic wines. Tastings with food are possible (Klobučnícka 4). If you would like to see how Slovakians love to go shopping, visit the Aupark department store on the right bank of the Danube: In addition to international fashion and sports brands, there are also local products available.

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WELCOME TO HUNGARY! Breathtaking views, glorious relaxation in thermal pools: Many places across Hungary combine fantastic countryside, leisure enjoyment, and a rich heritage of a thousand years of history. The numerous bathing paradises and returning wineries have transformed more and more places and regions into oases of well-being. Magnificent cities nestle in mountainous regions, unique steppes, idyllic lakes and countryside marked by rivers follow the paths of the Danube and Tisza. Traveling through Hungary means experiencing, above all, exceptionally diverse nature and the revival of an enormous cultural heritage. The diversity of the nature ranges from the fauna and flora of the Pannonian Steppe to the still untouched forests of Bakony, the wine regions, and the Alpine foothills in the west. Discovering the cultural treasures there is like taking a fascinating trip back through time. The Roman era comes alive in excavations such as Tรกc-Gorsium or the garden ruins in the midst of Szombathely.

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Esztergom

danube swabians Danube Swabians are the people brought to Central and Southern Europe by the Habsburg family in the late seventeenth and eighteenth centuries following the devastating occupation of the Turks. To help rebuild Hungary, primarily farmers and craftsmen were brought over. Among the migrants who were to settle the devastated

tracts of land were half a million Germans, who primarily came from south Germany. They were all considered “Swabians”. After the end of World War II, the majority of the Hungarian-Germans were driven out. Today around 130,000 live in Hungary as German minorities. To this day, they preserve their culture and language.

Esztergom

chamber includes garments and liturgical objects since the Carolingian period. The dome offers a wonderful view. But a warning for those scared of heights: The platform is no wider than a single foot. Szent István tér | www.bazilika-esztergom.hu

From the direction of Visegrád, the bight of the Danube and the mountain castle with the basilica offer a fantastic view. For the most beautiful approach to Esztergom (population ~28,500), park in SzentIstván tér. Once there, don’t take the steps up to the basilica, but go back a short way and a follow the street up. Esztergom, formerly a royal palace and archbishop’s residence, is, in the consciousness of the Hungarian people, the cradle of the nation and was a royal residence for 250 years.

places of interest Basilica of the Blessed Virgin Mary Assumed Into Heaven (Főszekesegyház) h a The classicist church is about 118 meters long and 48 meters wide and was built between 1822–69. It is Hungary’s biggest church. The 100 meter high central dome has a diameter of 35 meters. Franz Liszt composed Graner Mass for the consecration of the cathedral in 1856. The Bakócz chapel inside was built by Italian master craftsmen from 1506–11. The treasure

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Castle complex (VÁr) / Castle Museum (VÁrmúzeum) a The museum complex alongside the cathedral includes a restored castle and the former royal palace (Királyi palota). In the Middle Ages the area came into the possession of the church, whose most senior representatives lived as luxuriously as the secular rulers. The former reception rooms of the archbishop are adorned by magnificent murals from the early Renaissance, including a fresco by Sandro Botticelli (1444–1510). Szent István tér 1 | www.mnmvarmuzeuma.hu Christian Museum (KeresztÉny MÚzeum) Outstanding collection in the former palace of the Primate of Hungary (including Medieval panel paintings, sculptures, works by Italian masters, and tapestries). Mindszenty tér | www.keresztenymuzeum.hu

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places of interest Round Church (Kerek Templom St. Anna) The impressive building (built 1828–37) with its columned entrance was designed by the master cathedral builder Johann Pákh. Rudnay tér | on the road to Dorog

szentendre The h Fő tér (main place) lies close to the Danube boulevard (Dunakorzó) and is the heart of the city. The iron-wrought plague cross from 1752 is also here. Since the thousand-year anniversary celebrations of Szentendre in 2010, extensive renovation work has been done in the old city center of this historical jewel. Szentendre was established in the eleventh century as Sanctus Andreas. The city experienced its golden years as a trade center at the end of the seventeenth century, thanks to the Serbian merchants and craftsmen who had fled there. The city enjoyed a rebirth with a local colony of artists founded at the end of the 1920s. Many art museums serve testament to their creations. Most of the museums are closed between the end of October and the end of March. During the season, most are open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday.

places of interest Open-Air Museum (Skanzen) Buildings from all over the country have been built over the 46 hectares of land. A treat is the Greco-Catholic church from Mándok (1670). There is also an exhibition on living and everyday culture in Hungary from the mid-eighteenth century. ASztaravodai út | www.skanzen.hu | on the road to Visegrád, 3 km north-west of Szentendre Catholic Parish Church (Római

Katolikus Plébániatemplom) a The church is the only remaining witness of the old fortified village of St. Andreas. In the eighteenth century, it was redesigned in the Baroque style by Catholic Croatians. The church square offers a beautiful view over the town. On the castle hill (Templomdomb) Margit-Kovács-museum The ceramic artist and sculptor Margit Kovács (1902–77) spent many years abroad before settling in Szentendre in 1960. The museum offers a comprehensive overview of her art. In 2011, the building was reopened after renovations and the addition of a new wing. Annunciation Church (Blagovestenska-kirche) The late-Baroque Orthodox church (built 1752–54) has a dazzlingly beautiful wall of icons (Iconostasis). Above the side entrance is Constantine the Great with St. Helena, his mother, available for viewing. Opposite the church, the castle steps lead to the a castle mound. Fő tér

shopping Folk art stores are primarily found in the alleyways of Fő tér. It’s worth exploring all the alleyways because there are many boutiques and antique shops to be found.

Budapest On one side is the hilly Buda with a castle hill and a fisherman’s bastion. On the other is the flat Pest, with the parliament. Between them are the Danube and its bridges.Budapest is as spectacular as it is well-located. The eclectically characterized face of the

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BUDAPEST

Fisherman’s Bastion

city (population ~1.76 M) is the result of an unparalleled construction boom in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The most important sights are close to each other on the castle hill and the inner city of Pest.

PLACES OF INTEREST BUDA CASTLE (BUDAVÁRI PALOTA) The first (and later completely destroyed) royal residence was built in the thirteenth century. Building work on a Baroque palace began in 1715. After World War II, the castle palace was given a neo-Baroque face. It houses the national library and several museums. Szent György tér

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FISHERMAN’S BASTION (HALÁSZBÁSTYA) h a The steps and bastion ensemble was built on the walls of a Medieval fortress complex from 1899–1906. The name refers to the fact that the fisherman’s guild was responsible for defending this part of the castle wall in earlier times. Szentháromság tér GELLÉRT HILL (GÉLLERTHEGY) 135 meters high, the hill features a liberty statue over the Buda’s bank of the Danube. The citadel at the peak offers the widest view over the city. At the foot of the hill, near the freedom bridge (Szabadság híd) shines the magnificent and famous Gellért thermal bath (Kelenhegyi út 4 |

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SHOPPING www.gellertbad.hu), where you can relax from sightseeing with a vigorous massage. Szirtes út | Citadella sétány

ding antiques and graphics). The most significant is the gallery of old masters. Dózsa György út 37 | www.mucsarnok.hu

z y HOUSE OF HUNGARIAN ART NOUVEAU (MAGYAR SZECESSZIÓ HÁZA) The Bedő building (1903) and its furnishings are an Art Nouveau work of art that has been turned into a wonderful private museum. Honvéd utca 3 | www.

MARGARET ISLAND (MARGITSZIGET) The 2.5 km long and 500 m wide island in the Danube is a relaxation and entertainment park with hotels, open-air stages, indoor and outdoor pools, a Japanese garden and a monastery ruin. It’s ideal for a long walk and taking a break in nature. Or for jogging along the island’s idyllic running track OPERA (OPERAHÁZ) A magnificent building (1875–84) by Miklós Ybl. The theater hall captivates with its luxurious gold leaf, splendid chandeliers and murals. Best viewed during a performance. Tickets are often available last minute online. They can also be printed out at the desk. Andrássy út 22 | www.opera.hu PARLIAMENT (ORSZÁGHÁZ) From 1885 to 1902, around 1000 people worked on the building each day. It is 268 meter long and up to 118 meters wide. With it, the architect Imre Steindl created eclecticism. By tour guide only. Preferably buy tickets in advance, but there are also often free places at the last minute. The new, chic visitors center is in the fully renovated Kossuth tér. Kossuth Lajos tér | www.parlament.hu

Market Hall

magyarszecessziohaza.hu HALL OF ART (MŰCSARNOK) AND MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS (SZÉPMŰVESZETI MÚZEUM) Both classicist buildings on Heldenplatz were completed in 1895 and 1906. The Hall of Art displays temporary exhibitions of contemporary art. The Museum of Fine Arts houses permanent collections (inclu-

CITY FOREST (VÁROSLIGET) Primarily on offer in the large city park is the small castle. For some it is kitsch, for others it’s an eclectic fairytale. There is also the Zoological Garden (www.zoobudapest.com) and a circus (www.fnc.hu). ST. STEPHEN’S BASILICA (SZENT ISTVÁN BAZILIKA) The city’s largest church offers 8500 places and a 96 meter high dome. Built 1851–1905, it is in the Neo-Renaissance

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Puszta style. Szent István tér | www.bazilika.biz

shopping The shopping high street Váci utca is completely pedestrianized. More original than the upper section is the section between Szabad sajtó út and Fővám tér. Around Móricz Zsigmond körtér (near Gellért baths), the z y small stores have retained their old style – from clothes to hats to hairdressers, who are definitely not frequented by tourists.

Puszta The Puszta! For visitors, the typical Hungarian countryside is a romantic myth. In Hungarian, the land to the east of the Danube is called alföld. The Puszta begins south of the Budapest– Debrecen line. It is bordered to the west by the Danube, to the east by Romania, to the south by Serbia and Montenegro. The desolation of a once heavily forested area is the result of the Mongol invasion in the thirteenth century and one hundred and fifty years of Turkish rule. The people fled to the fortified market regions and the land withered to a desolate Steppe in which wandering shepherds scraped by with a miserable existence. In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, some of the market regions flourished into cities and the typical Puszta isolated farmsteads (tanya) arose. Today, most of the region is used for livestock (geese, turkeys, cattle, horses) and for farming vegetables, fruit and wine. The original Puszta nature survived in the national parks Hortobágy and Kiskunság.

Kalocsa The cathedral square of the peaceful,

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small town (population ~17,000) is rich in Baroque splendor. The archbishopric (established in 1008 by King Stephen) was the second most important bishop seat after Esztergom. Kalocsa is also famous for its sweet pepper fields and vibrant folk art. The train station (1882) is wonderfully painted in this tradition.

places of interest Cathedral (Főszekesegyház) h The Medieval cathedral was destroyed during the war of religions. The Baroque archbishopric church was built 1735–54. The interior is decorated by fine stucco doors and Baroque altars. Szentháromság tér Archbishop’s Palace (Érseki palota) The wonderful Baroque residence from 1776 houses a unique library. Szenthá romság tér 1 yz sweet pepper museum (Paprika Múzeum) The history of sweet peppers in the region (Kalocsa is the sweet pepper capital) and their use in the cuisine of the people is charmingly explained before your eyes. Szentháromság tér 2–3 Károly-Viski-Museum (Viski Károly Múzeum) A local history museum with different collections (folk art, minerals, coins, precious stones). István király utca 25

shopping House of Folk Art (Népművészeti ház) A restored farmhouse exhibits famous Kalocsa needlework and other typical local folk art. Tompa Mihály utca 5–7

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WELCOME TO SERBIA! From Budapest, the ships glide out into the Hungarian part of the Pannonian Basin. At the border of Croatia and Serbia, the Danube has traveled, with 1433 km of river behind it, over half the journey from the Black Forest to the Black Sea. The section of the Danube forming the border between Croatian Slovenia in the west and Serbian Vojvodina in the east is almost 150 km long. The precise border resulting from the bitter war of 1991â€“95 continues to be disputed because the Croatians would like to keep the old Danube bights on the east bank. Currently, the border is in the middle of the river.

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NOVI SAD

NOVI SAD Even the first impression from the ship is positive. The Danube, at 1260 km, forms a wide arc to the north. On the right cliff bank protrudes the expansive Petrovaradin Fortress. On the left bank is the city center. And over everything is a sliver of the southern ease that makes life in Novi Sad (population ~300,000) enjoyable.

PLACES OF INTEREST INNER CITY From the dock it’s only a few minutes along Dunavska street to the cozy city center. On the water you pass the pretty Dunavski park and the Museum der Vojvodina (Dunavska 35-37 | www.muzejvojvodine), which has an extensive archeological and ethnographic collection. The Dunavska feeds into the pedestrian zone Zmaj Jovina, whose southern cafés quickly fill with young people on mild summer evenings – Novi Sad is a popular university town. To the left the pedestrian zone leads to Trg Slobode (Liberty Square), which is dominated by the NeoRenaissance City Hall and the Neo-Gothic The Name of Mary Church. The Hungarian architect György Molnár is responsible for both buildings. This neighborhood still displays strong signs of its Hungarian heritage. PETROVARADIN FORTRESS h However, Novi Sad’s most important sight is on the opposite shore of the Danube. Following peace in neighboring Karlowitz (today Sremski Karlovci), the Habsburgs were able to take Vojvodina from the Ottomans in 1699, and immediately began building out Petrovaradin Fortress, which lies high above the Da-

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The Name of Mary Chruch

nube. For the plans they engaged the renowned French fortress builder Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban, who was tasked with building an impregnable stronghold. After Prinz Eugen was able to repel a renewed Turkish assault near Petrovaradin in 1716, the power of the Habsburg family was ensured in Novi Sad for the next 200 years. Petrovaradin’s lower town is reached on foot via Duga bridge. Stairs lead from the Franciscan church up through the Ludwig bastion to the 110 hectare fortress. The terrace offers a beautiful view over the Danube and inner city. The fortress’ sights include the 16 km of subterranean corridors as well as the Novi Sad Municipal Museum in the heart of the fortress.

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places of interest

belgrade The white city (population ~1.7 million) lies at the confluence of the Danube and Sava. The first foothills of the Balkan Mountain Range begin here. And here beats the heart of modern Serbia. Belgrade is an extremely vibrant and dynamic city, which is primarily known for its turbulent nightlife.

places of interest Cathedral and Palace h The cathedral was built between 1837 and 1845 as a visible sign of the growing Serbian autonomy in the face of the Ottoman Empire. Until the completion of the Church of Saint Sava, it was the center of the religious community. On the other side of the street is the patriarch’s residence. A visit to the neighboring museum in the Palace of Princess Ljubica is worth it. The wife of the Serbian prince Miloš Obrenović was given the house located in a small park as her residence in 1831. Inside are typical interior furnishings from the nineteenth century. Of primary interest are the Ottoman salons. Only later were Central European styles adopted. The Kralja Petra leads to the pedestrian zone in the Knez Mihailova. This popular strolling and café mile connects the modern inner city to Belgrade’s fortress on the right and Kalemegdan park on the left. Kalemegdan Park The park’s name comes from the Turkish for “battlefield”. Here, between the fortress and the city was an open space the military kept clear as a shooting range. For the Ottomans however, Kalemegdan was a place of meditation because ap-

parently here they could drink their Turkish coffee in peace and enjoy the view over the Sava and Danube. A commemorative stone at the entrance of the park serves as a reminder of the handover of Belgrade’s fortress to prince Mihail in 1867. The date is significant to Belgrade as the end of the 350 years of Ottoman rule. The open area in front of the fortress was converted into a park. Today, the people of Belgrade stroll here, play chess, and meet and chat – Kalemegdan is a very relaxing place. Belgrade Fortress h Through the Karadjorde Gate is the fortress’s outer area. Further on you pass the impressive inner Stambol Gate and the prominent Sahat Tower (clock tower) on the way into the inner area. The last two gates in particular continue to testify to the impressive defensibility of the fortress. There have been fortifications on the plateau since the time of the Celts. The Romans founded the town of Singidunum here and all later rulers – Hungarian, Turkish, Austrian, Serbian – quickly established defenses once in possession of the city. Most of the fortress gates in this area of the complex go back to the middle of the eighteenth century, when the Ottomans erected comprehensive defenses after taking the city back from the Austrians. An Ottoman general from the eighteenth century is commemorated with a hexagonal mausoleum situated diagonally left behind Sahat Tower. The Damad-Ali-Pascha Türbe is a rare piece of Ottoman heritage. In contrast, on the north side of the fortress’s bastion, the naked figure of the Victor (by Ivan Meštović) commemorates liberty. The dove in the left hand and the sword in the right unite peace and war. However, the Serbian people take issue with the hero’s na-

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BELGRADE

Chruch of St. Sava

kedness ... From the bastion, the view of the Sava goes all the way to New Belgrade, which was expanded as a socialist model city after World War II. The Austro-Hungarian empire began on the other side of the river up until 1918. The Veliko Ratno Ostravo (Great War Island) is a natural reserve and important relic of the old Danube-Auen. Looking north from the fortress walls, over the endless Pannonian Basin, it is possible to understand why the fortress was so strategically important. Belgrade was one of the most important junctions between the East and the West. Further along, the fortress wall leads back to the fifteenth century. Both the impressive ruins of the Dizdar Tower and Gate, as well as the Zidan Gate go back to the time when Serbia, Hungary and Turkey fought over the rule of Belgrade. Between the two gates leads a path past two Orthodox cha-

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pels into the former lower town on the banks of the Danube. The Austrians built barracks here. Today, one walks over a green meadow in which unexpected remains of the old fortress stand. CHURCH OF SAINT SAVA On the horizon of the Terazije and Kralja Milana it is possible to make out the silhouette of the Church of Saint Sava. Saint Sava was a prince’s son and is considered the founder of the Serbian Orthodox Church. The monumental building serves as a sign of the church’s greatness since the end of the Tito era. With a dome height of 80 meters and standing room for 15,000 people, it is the third largest Orthodox church in the world. NEBOJŠA TOWER & SAVA ESTUARY A relic of the lower town worth seeing is the Nebojša Tower (Kula Nebojša), which

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PLACES OF INTEREST

Iron Gate

was restored and converted into a museum in 2011. From the fifteenth century, the tower defended Belgrade’s harbor mouth. Today, it provides a glimpse into the early nineteenth centuries. From here, you can go over the pretty boulevard along the Sava estuary, past the numerous restaurants and cafés, back to the harbor. CITY CENTER h The lively pedestrian zone of Knez Mihailova connects Kalemegdan park to the modern inner city. Here the city’s young people hang about the many cafés and there is always something happening in the evenings. Halfway between, the Muzej Zepter (Knez Mihailova 42 | www.zeptermuseum.rs) exhibits contemporary art on three stories. The building of the former Bank of Croatia (built 1922) alone is worth seeing. Around the central Republic Square (Trg Republike) the National Theater and

National Museum catch the eye. Northeast of the square adjoins the atmospheric restaurant Skadarska alleyway, which provides evening entertainment with music. A little Balkan romance is found here. UNIVERSITY DISTRICT Around Studentski Trg square are the central university buildings. Worth seeing is the Ethnographic Museum with its diverse exhibition on traditional costume and farming lifestyle culture. Included in the carnival costumes on display are Busójárás masks from Mohács in Hungary. A few streets further is the Bajrakli Mosque in which is the Gospodar Jevremova – an important monument from the Ottoman period. It was built in 1575 and is still used today. Everything is furnished with prayer mats and the minaret is still preserved. If the mosque is open, please remove your shoes before entering.

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IRON GATE other side of Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra is where the Serbian parliament (Dom Narodne Skupš tine) is sited.

SHOPPING The small market Zeleni is always lively and provides the people of Belgrade with fresh fruit, vegetables, fish and meat.

IRON GATE

OLD & NEW PALACEh To the south, extending from Republic Square is the long and broad Terazije boulevard, which becomes the Kralja Milana and leads to the Old Palace (Stari dvor) and the New Palace (Novi dvor), which was built in 1918. The Obrenović dynasty that ruled Serbia at the end of the nineteenth century governed from the Old Palace. However, the royal family was ill-fated and King Alexander and his wife were murdered in the palace in 1903. The Karadjordjević dynasty came to power as a result. Its royals also didn’t all die of natural causes; King Alexander I of Yugoslavia was murdered in 1934. The residence was then moved to its current position at the edge of the city to the Royal Palace. Today, Belgrade’s municipal government is housed in the Old Palace. The federal president resides in the New Palace and on the

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Sailing down the Danube, ships pass two fortresses on the way to the Iron Gate on the southern bank. Smederovo and Golubac were built in the fifteenth century with elaborate effort as a way of standing up against the Ottoman attackers. However, the effort was fruitless and the Hungarians and Serbians had to yield the field to the Turks at the beginning of the sixteenth century. Golubac (approx. 130 km from Belgrade) marks the start of the 100 km long section of beautiful countryside that is today known as the Iron Gate. At the end of the narrow valley, at the 934 km mark, is the Djerdap I power station. In 1964, the Romanian chief of state Gheorgiu-Dej and his Yugoslavian counterpart Marschall Tito decided on the construction of the mammoth community power station. The water level was raised by up to 35 meters. 17 villages were flooded in 1972 and 25,000 people had to be resettled. Also submerged was a small island a little further up from the dam. It had been a Turkish enclave and enjoyed a fairly exotic status. The height of Djerdap I is so immense that the dammed waters reach almost all the way to Belgrade. The lower course of the Danube begins at the power station.

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WELCOME TO ROMANIA! “For Heaven’s sake! Why would you go there?” This is probably the most common response upon hearing of a trip to Romania. Yes, why would you go to this country on the edge of the EU? To a country that most associate only with headlines about corruption and discrimination? They would be amazed. Romania actually has almost everything a traveler could wish for: Those seeking peace and solitude will find it in the remote, untouched mountains of the West Carpathians, which are home to many peaceful monasteries sporting beautifully painted facades, such as Suceviţa in north Moldavia and the gently rolling hills of Transylvania, like the thinly populated Harbach valley (Valea Hârtibaciului), in which life moves at a slow pace.

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Bucharest

Bucharest The city on the Steppe (population ~2.3 million), called Bucureşti in Romania, splits opinion. Many Romanians hate it, but no fewer love it for its raw Balkan flair and certain savoir-vivre. The Bucharest-haters complain of the general aggressiveness of the people there. Fast drivers harass pedestrians over the crosswalks and park inconsiderately in front of garage entrances and on sidewalks. The traffic is a constant potential source of causing a stroke. Exhaust fumes pollute the air. Bucharestlovers treasure dancing on the edge of a nervous breakdown because it highlights the unmistakable humor of the Romanian capital. Typical residents are quick-witted, a little mean, and self-deprecating. Visually, Bucharest is split into contradictory worlds. In the north are the green villa neighborhoods of politicians and diplomats, bordered by the huge Herăstrău park. The city center is divided into a cross of the vibrant boulevards of Bălcescu, Magheru, Elisabeta and Carol. To the south are run-down prefab housing quarters in which the majority of minor civil servants, workers, teachers and students live. In the middle is the poor Romany neighborhood of Ferentari. Not all dare to enter for fear of violent crime. Bucharest’s market area was first mentioned in 1459. The name of the place goes back to a shepherd called Bucur, who once built a fortified home here, a so-called han. The most famous caravansary, Hanul lui Manuc (Str. Franceză 62–64 | Tel. 021 313 14 11 | www.hanumanuc.ro), was built in the nineteenth century. Today the pub is home to Romanian and Lebanese cuisine, as well as a beer gar-

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den and a wine cellar. Bucharest enjoyed its first Golden Age around 1900 when the Hohenzollern dynasty began to build frantically, following the example of the French Fin de Siècle. The private builders had a lot of freedom. For this reason, some areas display a charming diversity of styles. Houses in the old Romanian style of columns and decorated circular arches stand alongside Italian-style villas, Gründerzeit alongside Bauhaus and Art Decó. Many buildings were destroyed during Allied bombing raids in 1944, others by the earthquake of 1977. Particularly devastating however was the thirst for destruction displayed by Nicolae Ceauşescus in the eighties. He laid three old neighborhoods to waste to create space for his monstrous People’s House. 20 churches were leveled by the earthquake. Eight were saved by relocation. Today they stand squashed between dull tenement blocks. With all its contradictions, Bucharest offers a vibrant, exuberant image. More and more restaurants are opening, most offering Italian cuisine and design. Elegant people saunter along the inner city boulevards. On the corners stand Romany women in colorful skirts, selling flowers. Almost everyone speaks English or French.

places of interest Village Museum (Muzeul Satului) The impressive open-air museum is in the middle of Herăstrău park to the north of the city center. It displays around 300 centuries-old farmhouses, churches and mills from around the country. In the summer there is a regular g yz market selling organic products. Access Şoseaua Kisseleff

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places of interest Museum of Romanian Farmers (Muzeul Ţăranului Român) h The award-winning museum displays old costumes, folk art, tools and Christian cult objects. Of particularly significance are two wooden churches from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The yz museum shop is highly recommended. There are, among other things, original, old farmer textiles that farmers’ wives are still clearing out of the chests and bringing to the museum. There are also ceramics and CDs of authentic folk music. Şoseaua Kisseleff Parliament Palace (Palatul Parlamentului) h Built by the dictator Ceauşescu, the monstrous palace is 450,000 m² and, after the Pentagon in Washington, the second biggest building in the world. For many people of Bucharest it is an architectural wonder. It is certainly worth seeing if only for its ugliness and immensity. 700 architects and 20,000 workers worked on it 24 hours a day for five years. Its 3000 rooms, 60 corridors and 64 reception halls are decorated with kitsch marble reliefs. From the ceilings hang crystal chandeliers that weigh tons. The building costs of 3.5 billion USD caused the people additional misery. Atop an artificial hill, the palace dominates a newly built avenue in the same style. Today the House of Representatives and numerous government agencies are housed here. Bd. Unirii Stavropoleos Church h With elaborate wooden carvings in the Neo-Brâncoveanu style, it is Bucharest’s most beautiful church in the old merchant district. The interior courtyard houses the remains of frescoes and churches from Bucharest’s historical center, which

were torn down during the Communist era. Str. Poştei 6 National Gallery (Muzeul Naţional de Artă) The National Gallery in the former royal palace displays the whole gamut of Romanian paintings from the tenth century to Modernity – with more than 70,000 exhibits. Significant names are the painter Theodor Aman and Gheorghe Tăttărascu, the founder of the Romanian art academy at the close of the nineteenth century. There are also artworks from the fifteenth century and later by German, Dutch, Italian and French masters. Palatul Regal | Piaţa Revoluţiei | www.mnar.arts.ro Museum of History (Muzeul Naţional de Istorie) The entire history of Romania under one roof. Highlights are the treasure chamber with the coronation crown of the Romanian queens and jewelry from the pre-Roman era. Of particular value is a collection of Gothic objects from the fifth century: Precious stone-encrusted vases, fibulas, rings, plates and bowls made of gold, which were discovered in the village of Pietroasa in the Carpathians in 1876. A curiosity found in the Stone Age section is “The Thinker of Hamangia” (Gânditorul de la Hamangia). The clay statuette looks like a modern sculpture, but is 6000 years old and was found near Cernavodă at the Black Sea. Calea Victoriei 12 Herăstrău Park With its greenery stretching over 187 hectares, the park at the north end of the city serves as its lungs. Playgrounds, two lakes, rowboats and paddleboats for hire, as well as café terraces all lure many visitors when the weather is good. Şoseaua Kisseleff

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Bucharest

danube delta The Danube Delta is a Mecca for nature lovers and adventurous vacationers. Tributaries feed the wide river along its 2840 km journey into the Black Sea. At Tulcea it divides into three major distributaries: The Chilia to the north, the Sulina in the middle, and the Sfântu Gheorghe to the south. Between them lies a labyrinth of canals, lakes, swamps, reed marsh and forests. 80% of the delta region, which totals 4,500 km², consists of water. On

100,000 floating islands of reeds live pelicans found nowhere else in Europe, along with wild boar, foxes, muskrats, deer and cormorants. Altogether there are 1,688 types of plant and 3,864 types of animal, of which around 300 are types of bird and 160 are types of fish. Just 14,500 people share this paradise with them. They live from fishing and harvesting reeds, and reside in villages along the canals or on islands in the swamp.

University Square (Piaţa Universităţii) The square in front of the Classicist university building (1875) is rich in history. It is here that protesters against the exCommunists in government gathered in May 1990. The ongoing demonstration was brutally ended by hordes of violent miners, who were called in by the new President Ion Iliescu. Crossing Bd. Bălcescu and Bd. Regina Elisabeta

rest in the northern inner city, where the farmers expect wealthy customers. The modern market hall is home to a rich offering and the prices are put up accordingly. The side alleys have many delicatessen markets. Piaţa Doboranţi

Revolution Square (Piaţa Revoluţiei) It was here that the high point of the bloody revolution played out in 1989. It was from the roof of the former building of the Central Committee of the Romanian Communist Party, opposite the Royal Palace, that the dictator and his wife fled by helicopter from angry demonstrators – three days before he was executed. Minutes before, Ceauşescu had given his last speech from the balcony.

shopping Dorobanţi market The place for the well-heeled of Bucha-

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Lipscani-Viertel The oldest merchant district in Bucharest – on the Biserica Curtea Veche. In the winding streets of Lipscani (Leipzig), Blănari (furrier) and Kovaci (smith) small stores and workshops stand alongside each other. You can find everything there that you would in a department store – just cheaper: clothing and fabrics, food, screws and bathroom tiles. Lipscani street is so called because German import goods were sold here around 300 years ago. Particularly enticing is the gallery paradise Hanul cu Tei (Blănari 5–7). Heavy black wrought-iron doors and store windows adorn the stores designed by artists in this courtyard. Here is where painters buy their easels, screens and paints. The galleries display contemporary Romanian art and all sorts of things for the home.

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FRANCE

Rhône & Saône Bu

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Mâcon

Saône

Chalon-sur-Saône

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Lyon

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Sea

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WELCOME TO SOUTHERN FRANCE! High mountains, deep valleys, eternal ice and burning heat, snow-white peaks and the azure sea – the southeast of France brings together contrasts like no other corner of the country. Rhône Valley and the Alps, Provence and the Côte-d’Azur, Languedoc and Roussillon (with its Catalan influences) – all these places are favored by the weather and offer regions rich in nature and glorious countryside. Bathing spots and excellent restaurants abound in the Côte d’Azur. The coastline, with its pebble beaches in the east and white, sandy beaches and islands in the west is considered a chic refuge of relaxation. The hinterland is a vibrant idyll of lavender fields, olive groves and fields of white roses around the perfumery town of Grasse. In sharp contrast, the northeast is crowned by Mont-Blanc (4809 m), the highest mountain of the Alps. From the mountain down into the valley runs the Rhône slightly further north, meeting the Saône in Lyon before traveling further south, past Avignon and Arles before running into the Mediterranean in Camargue. East of Rhône lie the rolling hills of Provence, with the mountain villages of Luberon, the towns of Aix-en-Provence and Marseille, and the three legendary mountains Mont Ventoux, Montagne Sainte-Victoire and Massif de la Sainte-Baume.

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places of interest Walk alonge the Rhône

markets, trade shows and sports events.

places of interest Croix-Rousse This district of the city is home to many of the traboules typical to the old city – narrow passages and alleyways, corridors partly interconnected in a labyrinthine way, courtyards and stairways. The hill is named so because of a red stone cross that marked a crossroads before the Revolution. Today, the steeply ascending district, formerly the center of the silk industry, is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

lyon h The wealthy city of Lyon (population ~450,000) is the third largest city in France, situated at the confluence of Saône and Rhône. Biochemistry and high-tech firms have replaced the old printing and silk industries and have made Lyon a flourishing economic center. Over recent years, the city has also been making efforts to elevate itself culturally: with biennales, concerts, theater, minor arts, opera, ballet,

Musée des Beaux-Arts The museum exhibits one of France’s richest collections of paintings, with works by Paolo Veronese, Peter Paul Rubens, Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse. 20, Place des Terreaux | www. mba-lyon.fr Musée Lumière Earning their livelihood making photographic plates, it was in the Lumière family apartment that Auguste and Louis developed cinematography. 21, Rue du 1er Film | www.institut-lumiere.org Presqu’île The peninsula between Saône and Rhô-

fragrant fields The lavender fields are in full bloom from June to August: violet blossoms as far as the eye can see. Approximately 70 percent of global lavender oil production and 90 percent of hybrid lavender oil are from Provence. When you pass through this area, the plants

you see are often not lavender but rather a crossbreed of wild and English lavender. Those hybrids have a stronger scent and are perfectly suited to pharmaceutical products and cosmetics. English lavender, on the other hand, is oiler and has a milder scent.

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Mâcon ne is abundant in squares. Two of the most beautiful are the large, rectangular Place Bellecour and Place des Terreaux at the city hall. The peninsula is also a paradise for shopping and going out (Rue du Président Édouard Herriot). In the very south, at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône, international star architects are building the yz La Confluence on industrial wasteland (est. completion 2030). (www.lyon-confluence.fr). Eye-catchers are architectural icons such as the two cubes Cube Orange and Cube Verte by Jakob + MacFarlane, as well as the Musée des Confluences (86, Quai Perrache | www.museedesconfluences.fr) by Coop Himmelb(l)au, which attempts to convey the development, dreams, and fundamental questions of humanity in time and space. Vieux Lyon The beautiful old city (UNESCO World Heritage) on the right bank of the Saône is a district for entertainment and strolling around among the old half-timber houses, narrow, cobbled alleyways and beautiful courtyards from the Renaissance. The most significant street is Rue Saint-Jean with the cathedral.

Mâcon With their pastel colors, high windows and colorful wooden stores, the stately houses along the Saône in Mâcon have forsaken the traditions of Burgundy to align themselves with Provence. A pretty panoramic overview of it all can be enjoyed from a St-Laurent bridge (18th cent.). A trade center used by even the Gauls, the city (population ~34,500) has had the misfortune of being destroyed so many times that all that remains of its long history are a few mo-

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numents. Even the old Mâcon Cathedral is but a ruin. The vineyards of Mâcon stretch to the city limits, producing fruity white wines and sun-kissed red wines. Equally numerous and characteristic of the city are the merchant houses from the early nineteenth century.

places of interest Hôtel-Dieu A landmark of the early Classicist former hospital is the impressive dome. The paneled pharmacy from 1775 possesses an extensive collection of druggist jars. Rue du 11 Novembre 1918 yz La Maison du Bois A relic from early Mâcon is this half-timbered house adorned with wonderful woodwork from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The Brasserie of the same name on the ground floor has, unfortunately, paid little attention to preserving history. 13, place aux Herbes Musée Lamartine Rarely read anywhere else in France anymore, the books of Alphonse de Lamartine (1790–1869) still have a place of honor in his birthplace. At Hôtel Senecé (18th cent.) you’ll find an exhibition on the life of the Romantics and politicians in a suitably historical setting. 41, rue Sigorgne Musée des Ursulines The municipal collection is colorfully thrown together in the former Ursuline convent (17th cent,): local history, ethnology, paintings up to classical modern, history of air travel and ceramics. However, the most important items are the prehistoric finds by Solutré. 5, rue des Ursulines

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places of interest Vieux St-Vincent Since the storming of the Bastille in 1789 during the French Revolution, only the Romanesque antechamber and two octagonal towers of the old cathedral are still standing. In the ruin’s Lapidarium, ancient sarcophagi and the remains of the former Cordeliers Convent are on exhibit. 240, rue de Strasbourg

Chalon-sursaône The city (population ~47,000) is located north of Tournous and owes its rise to becoming a popular industrial base to the construction of the Canal du Centre in the late eighteenth century. Once you have made it past the suburbs and industrial areas, you behold the surprisingly beautiful old city with its cathedral, timber-framed houses, and Renaissance buildings. The picturesque St. Laurent island on the Saône river is home to numerous restaurants. A local character of note is Nicéphore Niepce: the inventor of photography, who was born in 1765 in Chalon. The Musée Nicéphore Niepce (28, quai des Méssageries | www.museeniepce.com) on the bank of the Saône is dedicated to him and his inventions.

old, 4.3 kilometer city wall. The palace, churches, cardinal residences, and the manors of the bourgeoisie form an impressive backdrop to the world’s biggest theater festival. Each year, thousands of young people come to the city in droves, which then turns into one giant stage. The a Rhône island of La Barthelasse offers the most beautiful view of the city, the Papal Palace, and the most famous bridge of Avignon.

places of interest Lambert Collection The refurbished and remodeled Palais Hôtel de Caumont from the eighteenth century is home to fascinating temporary exhibitions and contemporary art from the private collection of the merchant Yvon Lambert. 5, Rue Violette | www.collectionlambert. com

Avignon

Epicurium Montfavet, a suburb to the southeast, has the first European museum focusing exclusively on fruit and vegetables. Gourmet chef Christian Etienne is the patron of this institution. Its scientific approach, interactive presentations, conservatories, and gardens are a source of all there is to know about fruit and vegetables. There are also cooking classes and workshops for young and old. Rue Pierre Bayle | www.epicurium.fr

The period during the fourteenth century in which popes reigned in Avignon is but a brief period in the history of Christianity. Even today, the city (population ~90,000) on the banks of the Rhône is still dominated by the colossal Palais des Papes (Papal Palace) and the 700 year

yz Musée Angladon The foundation established by the artist couple Angladon-Dubrujeaud presents masterpieces from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Among them are works by Cézanne, Picasso, Dega, and Modigliani. 5, Rue Laboureur | www. angladon.com

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AVIGNON MUSÉE CALVET The beautiful grand residence is home to a comprehensive collection of artworks from prehistoric times, Asia, and Egypt, as well as drawings, sculptures, and paintings from artists such as Joseph Vernet (1714 to 1789), who immortalized his birthplace in many of his works. 65, Rue Joseph Vernet | www.musee-calvet-avignon. com MUSÉE DU PETIT PALAIS North of the vast courtyard of the Papal Palace stands the Petit Palais: a former cardinal’s residence. Today, it is an art museum with exhibits of Gothic and Romanesque sculptures, paintings by Italian masters from the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. There are also examples of the Avignon School from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Place du Palais PALAIS DES PAPES (PAPAL PALAST) h In the fourteenth century, it took Popes Benedict XII (Palais Vieux) and Clemens VI (Palais Neuf) nearly 30 years to have the massive citadel with its two palaces and 50 meter high walls built. Except for a few frescoes, fireplaces, ceilings, and mosaics, not much was left of the interior after the French Revolution. However, a tour through the chambers is enough to impress the grandeur of the building. During summer, the palace is a venue for art exhibitions, and the Cour d’Honneur is transformed into a stage for theater plays. The cathedral NotreDame-desDoms is also part of the complex, featuring its plain Romanesque dome and a statue of Mary from 1859. Behind the church lies the a Rocher des Doms park with its terraces and great views of the Rhône Valley and Mont Ventoux. www. palais-des-papes.com

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PLACE DE L’HORLOGE The lively square is only a short distance from the Papal Palace. Here, at Avignon’s main meeting point, you can visit dozens of cafés and restaurants, view the city hall, the clock tower and, of course, the opera from which a Molière statue gazes upon the hustle and bustle. PONT SAINT-BÉNÉZET Only a part of the famous bridge of Avignon has survived the test of time: only four arches of the construction that once spanned the Rhône are still standing after the bridge was abandoned in the seven-

Pont d’Avignon

teenth century. While the bridge was never wide enough to dance on, the island of Barthelasse on right bank of the Rhône has ample room for celebrations. On this bridge, Mireille Mathieu inaugurated the modern Musée de la Chanson, in which visitors can create their own video clips.

SHOPPING Avignon is a true metropolis with stores

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places of interest between Rue de la Républic and Rue Joseph Vernet selling fashion from almost all major brands markets The farmers’ market takes place from Tuesday to Sunday in the Halles (Place Pie). A flower market is held on Saturdays. A flea market is organized on Sundays on Place des Carmes. A grocery market along the city ramparts (Rempart Saint-Michel) opens its gates Saturdays and Sundays.

Arles Arles was the seat of Constantine the Great in the fourteenth century. Frederick I (also known as Frederick Barbarossa) visited the former capital of the Kingdom of Burgundy in the twelfth century. Lastly, the Dutchman Vincent van Gogh picked the city as a motif for his paintings. Besides Marseille, Arles (population ~55,000) is one of the oldest cities in France and exhibits a calm resolve consistent with its past and present.

As a result, the traditional bullfights in the arena (www.feriaarles.com) are as much a part of the everyday culture as the international photography festival (www.rencontres-arles.com) that attracts the best photographers in the world each summer. They will meet and greet in exceptional exhibition venues such as the closed former railroad workshops, the old chapels, or even the cloister of the Church of Saint Trophime.

places of interest Les Arènes (Amphitheater) One of the largest amphitheaters from the Roman era (first century) was expanded into a fortified city in the Middle Ages and rediscovered in the nineteenth century. Today, the arena is a popular venue for bloody bullfights but also hosts concerts and folklore festivals. The older and smaller Théâtre Antique is only a short distance away. Two marble columns remain from the ancient stage. Rond-point des Arènes Espace van Gogh The Dutch painter created more than 300 pieces of art in Arles between Febru-

Olive oil: Story of an Elixir Olive oil has a high percentage of unsaturated fatty acids. It is considered one of the secret ingredients of healthy eating. The gnarled trees can grow up to 1,000 years old and even survived the heavy frosts of 1956 and 1985. Today, the pride of Provence is subsidized by the EU, which makes cultivation of younger trees possible. In 1994, the tanche – the black olive from the area around Nyons – was the first to be

awarded the coveted certification of origin for olive oil from southern France: Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP). Since then, Aix-en-Provence and Alpilles have also been awarded an AOP certificate: Les-Baux-de-Provence. Olive oil made from cultivars such as grossane, salonenque, or aglandau is not only sought after by gourmets and celebrity chefs as a healthy superfood and has consequently become rather expensive.

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ardéche ary 1888 and May 1889. However, none of his paintings remained in the city. In exchange, the garden of a former hospital (which today is a media center with cafés and boutiques) was rebuilt according to his drawings. Free access | Place Félix Rey yz Vincent van Gogh Foundation The lost son returns to the city in which he created most of his masterpieces. A building from the fifteenth century was remodeled into a modern culture center that regularly exhibits Vincent van Gogh’s paintings along with contemporary art. 35ter, Rue du Docteur Fanton | www. fondation-vincentvangogh-arles.org yz Musée Départemental Arles Antique The bold, triangular building on the peninsula of Cirque Romain houses the antique treasures of the city and was designed by Henri Ciriani. The museum itself presents models of the city and other exhibits, such as the funerary monuments from Alychamps Cemetery that will open your eyes to the past of the modern city. The temporary exhibits are also worth a visit. Av. 1ère Division France Libre | www.arles-antique.cg13.fr Musée Réattu The diligently renovated former Maltese Palace on the bank of the Rhône is home to almost 60 drawings by Pablo Picasso as well as sculptures and paintings by other artists, such as Ossip Zadkine, César Baldaccini, and Germaine Richier. 10, Rue du Grand Prieuré | www. museereattu.arles.fr Saint-Trophime h The cathedral from the eleventh to twelfth century opposite the Baroque city

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hall is home to two treasures: the cloister is one of the most elegant buildings in Provence, and the church gate from the twelfth century, which is reminiscent of a triumphal arch, is rivaled only by a similar construction in Saint-Gilles (a town 15 kilometers west of Arles). Its sculptures depict the Doomsday court. Place de la République baths of constantine Only a small part of the Roman bath built under Emperor Constantine in the fourth century has been excavated, but it is still the largest facility of its kind in Provence. Access via Rue Maïsto opposite Musée Réattu

shopping The market on Saturday attracts approximately 600 merchants to Blvd. des Lices and is one of the largest in the region. On Wednesdays, you can find a farmers’ market on Blvd. Émile Combes. The exquisite music label Harmonia Mundi (3, Rue du Président Wilson | www.harmoniamundi. com) sells its CDs in its own store.

ardèche The river that has its source in the Massif Central gives the Départment its name and look. The rushing waters deeply eroded the karst bedrock. The “Devil’s Bridge” Pont du Diable near Thueyts in the upper section of the river is a sight to behold. The middle course between Aubenas and Ruoms leads through a wide valley that is also perfect for hiking. The famous gorge Gorges de l’Ardèche further down the river between Vallon-Pont-d’Arc (with its incredible natural bridge) and Saint-Martin d’Ardèche is a paradise for kayakers and canoeists.

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G R E AT B R I TA I N

ann

Ã‰tretat Le Havre Honfleur Normand

Rouen y

Les Andelys

Se ine

Paris

FRANCE

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WELCOME TO NORTHERN FRANCE! Bad weather and widespread industrialization are just two prejudices northern France has to combat. Do not let this dissuade you, as the regions Hauts-de-France and Haute-Normandie are definitely worth a visit. Northern France is also known for its hospitality, breathtaking cliffs, impressive architecture, grand cathedrals, charming Glockenspiele, merry festivities, huge flea markets, and ample tasty food and drink. The northernmost region of France reaches from the English Channel (La Manche) to the Ardennes. The expansive Picardie has beautiful forests to explore. The seaside cliffs of Haute-Normandie with their spectacular chalk rocks and sophisticated bathing resorts are not just favorites among Paris residents. West of the river, you can hear the call of ArdĂ¨che, CĂŠvennes, and the coastal region of Languedoc-Roussillon, which extends all the way to the Spanish border.

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places of interest

Skyscrapers and Super Metropolis The city of Paris as such has only 2.2 million citizens, but more than 10 million live in the suburbs. The 30 billion euro project “Grand Paris” aims to merge both and turn the capital of France into a model metropolis of the twenty-first century. By 2030, 72 new stations are planned for the fully automated Grand Paris Express loop line. The first of the new routes are scheduled to be operational in 2017. The development of public transport, e-mobility, and bicycle traffic is part of the radical ecological changes necessary to save a city that is gasping for fresh air with ever greater regularity: bans on driving due to high levels of particulate matter are common occurrences.

14 urban planning agencies are busy designing the Paris of the future – including 70,000 additional apartments. Prestigious projects realized by international celebrities are to brighten up the sea of houses: The 180 meter high pyramid of Tour Traingle by Herzog and de Meuron is a modern interpretation of the Eiffel Tower in the fifteenth Arrondissement. In the thirteenth Arrondissement, Jean Nouvel erected the two towers (115 and 180 meters respectively) of the ZAC Rive Gauche, and the 170 meter high tower of the palace of justice in the district Quartier des Batignolles of the seventeenth Arrondissement reaches into the sky.

Paris

polis has it all. There is always something happening in Paris. International celebrities come for a visit, economic conferences are a daily occurrence, major sports events and art exhibitions happen every week. And as a fashion capital, Paris attracts fashionistas from all over the world twice a year with Prêt-à-porter and Haute Couture shows. However, the never ending flood of people also has its disadvantages: the city’s streets are clogged, which causes a high degree of air pollution. The Quartier Oberkampf is one of the most densely populated districts in all of Europe. The city of Berlin is eight times the size of the city of Paris, but maybe it’s this cramped environment that gives the place such a romantic air.

The capital of France (population ~2.2 million in the city) is one of the most visited places in the whole world. The reasons for this are economical, administrational, and touristic. Many people consider Paris to be the most beautiful city in the world. All traffic arteries run together in the agglomeration of Paris (population 12.3 million). The city has Europe’s second largest airport (Charlesde-Gaulle). International organizations such as Unesco and OECD are based there. Paris also has more than 160 museums. This accumulation of masterpieces makes the city a paradise for art enthusiasts from all over the world. Thanks to its multilingual, multicultural, and multi-religious inhabitants, Paris is teeming with life and full of surprises. Monuments, architectural masterpieces, cultural sites, restaurants, bars, and stores: the metro-

places of interest Centre Pompidou h a The building was constructed from steel frames in 1977. Its elevators and escala-

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PARIS tors move along the glass front, and the center is considered a unique architectural monument of postmodern industrial chic. It is also one of the most frequented culture centers in the world and has the largest collection of art from the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. An extensive library includes important music documentation as well as a cinema, a café, bookstores, and conference rooms. Place Georges-Pompidou | www.centrepompidou.fr CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES The shopping and event mile of Paris is 2 kilometers long and has five Metro stops between Place de la Concorde and the Arc de Triomphe. Check out the designer stores, such as Louis Vuitton, Guerlain, Cartier, Yves Rocher, etc. At night, the cinemas and theaters call – Le Lido de Paris among them. For the parade on Bas-

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tille Day and the final leg of the Tour de France, all of Paris gets together on the Champs-Élysées. And in the weeks before Christmas, the boulevard glitters beneath all the lights. EIFFEL TOWER (TOUR EIFFEL) h a La Dame de fer, the Iron Lady as the French call the impressive tower, is a must on everyone’s first visit to Paris. The iconic landmark of the city was the highest tower (324 meter) in the world for 40 years. It was built by Gustave Eiffel for the world exhibition in 1889. You can climb to the second platform on foot, but after those 704 steps, you have to take the elevator the rest of the way to the top. Once there, with the wind in your hair, you have an amazing bird’seye view of Paris. Particularly in the evening, the lights of the city below are particularly enchanting. You can celebrate

Tour Eiffel

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Places of Interest this memorable moment with a drink at the Bar à Champagne. On every full hour at night, the Eiffel Tower lights up. The best view of this lighting show can be had from the Palais du Trocadéro and Palais de Chaillot opposite the tower. If you want to avoid waiting in line for hours, we recommend purchasing a ticket (with a specified visiting time!) online. But be warned: if you are late, you will not be allowed up. Stair tickets are only available over the counter. www. tour-eiffel.fr Louvre h You cannot see everything in the Louvre in one day. The biggest museum in the world is divided into eight sections. Approximately 35,000 works of art are displayed over 60,000 m2. Due to the vastness of the task, most first-time visitors focus on the Italian Renaissance, including Leonardo da Vinci’s “Mona Lisa” in the Salle des États and the masterpieces of French painting in the Sully wing. www.louvre.fr Marais h The former marsh was drained in the twelfth century and used as building site by the aristocracy. Even today, this district is still considered Paris’ center of Jewish life, and you will see many orthodox Jews in the streets around here. The Marais is a trendy district and its heart is the Place des Vosges square with its arcades. The Marais is home to many beautiful city manors, such as the city museum Musée Carnavalet (16, Rue des Francs-Bourgeois | www.carnavalet.paris.fr | closed for renovations until 2019) and the Hôtel de Béthune-Sully (62, Rue Saint-Antoine | www.sully.monuments-nationaux.fr). Tours of the interior are not possible, but the courtyard and garden act as a passage to Place des Vosges and are therefore open to the public.

Montmartre The district on the highest hill in Paris has retained its nostalgic village charm, which is the main reason for its attractiveness to many tourists. If you are trying to follow in the footsteps of famous painters such as Pablo Picasso, Paul Gauguin, Henri Rousseau, Maurice Utrillo, and Amedeo Modigliani, this is the place to visit. Even today, many street artists can be found on Place du Tertre. The history of the quarter and Paris’ Bohemian society and party scene of the nineteenth century are displayed in the Musée de Montmartre (12–14, Rue Cortot | www.museedemontmartre.fr) right around the corner. But whatever you do, do not miss out on the ascent to a Sacré-Cœur! Not only is the snowy white, Roman-Byzantine basilica worth a visit, the view of the city from here is the most beautiful to be had. Musée du Quai Branly h This museum is home to art from Africa, America, Oceania, and Asia. The epic building near the Eiffel Tower was designed by the architect Jean Nouvel and lies on the bank of the Seine. Its collection comprises 300,000 exhibits. 37, Quai Branly | www.quaibranly.fr Sainte-Chapelle h The palace chapel of the former royal residence is an underestimated treasure. It was commissioned by Louis IX of France (also known as Saint Louis). Built in the thirteenth century, it is considered a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. The lower part of the chapel has a height of only 7 meters. The upper part has the oldest windows in Paris, which bathe the interior in an otherworldly light. 4, Blvd. du Palais | www. sainte-chapelle.monu ments-nationaux.fr

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les andelys shopping Paris is a paradise for shopping. Stores of the major fashion labels can be found on Rue de Rivoli and Rue de Rennes. If you prefer a more intimate shopping atmosphere, the best places to visit are the Marais around Rue des Francs Bourgeois and the streets running parallel to Rue Bonaparte in Saint-Germain-desPrés. The best shopping boulevard, however, is Blvd. Haussmann, where you can find the department stores Galeries Lafayette and Le Printemps. Recommendable covered shopping passages are, for example, Passage des Princes (5, Blvd. des Italiens) and Passage des Panoramas (11, Blvd. Montmartre). You should also pay a visit to the Belle Époque department store Le Bon Marché (24, Rue de Sèvres) and the huge delicatessen section La Grande Épicerie (38, Rue de Sèvres)! The bouquiniste who set up shop along the banks of the Seine to sell their antiques alongside the portrait painters are world-famous. Contemporary books, CDs, DVDs, classics in literature, music, and film, as well as electronics can be bought in the many branches of Fnac in Paris. The largest in Paris are located on Champs-Élysées and in Forum-Les-Halles. Rue Malebranche, where Woody Allen shot parts of “Midnight in Paris”, is a portal to the wonderful world of Michèle Cointe and her store Antiquités (11, Rue Malebranche). If you have a weakness for museum shops, you can find art prints, artistic photography, engravings, and various souvenirs from all the national museums at www.boutiquesdemusees. fr. Macarons from the confectionary Ladurée are considered the best in the city. They are available in many different varieties in the four stores. The one at number 75 Av. des Champs-Elysées also has an adjacent café and bar.

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les andelys On a limestone rock high above the picturesque curve of the Seine and 40 kilometers from the serene city (population ~8,300) sit the massive ruins of the fortress Château Gaillard. It was built within a year in 1196 by the Norman duke and English king Richard Lionheart. The fortress was an important Norman bastion against France. The ruins, but especially the ramparts and the donjon with moat, are as perfect a motif for photos as is the amazing panoramic view of the Seine Valley.

Rouen The significance of the city on the banks of the Seine is a controversial issue. h With a population of ~110,000 (or 500,000 if you add the large number of suburbs), it is the capital of the region. Located 90 kilometers from the coast, it will come as a surprise to many that it is also home to the fifth largest seaport in France. Every year, more than 3,500 ships travel upriver and back to the sea because Rouen is an important entrepôt of Paris. The tides are very noticeable in Rouen. Every four to six years in June (next time in 2019), the city is host to the Armada (www.armada.org), a large festival with millions of visitors. Over eleven days, proud sailing ships from dozens of nations arrive at the harbor. The “city of 100 church spires” and 1,000 timber-framed houses looks back on 2,000 years of eventful history. A sad highlight was the burning of Joan of Arc on Place du Vieux-Marché. The rich architectural heritage of beautiful ecclesiastical buildings, grand castles, and stately manors in different styles gave Rouen its second

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places of interest byname of “Museum City” (central website of the museums in Rouen: www.rouen-musees.com). Harbour in Honfleur

two artistically designed clock hands that still work accurately to this day. You can also view the mechanism inside the building. The moon calendar, which is also part of the installation, was an important tool to estimate whether an expected tall ship would be able to enter Rouen Harbor, as the moon phases influence the tides and thus the water level beneath the keel. If you climb to the top of the fourteenth-century a beffroi (bell tower), you can enjoy a panoramic view of the historic center. Musée des Beaux-Arts The museum exhibits a rich collection of paintings and sculptures, with works by Veronese, Rubens, Caravaggio, Ingres, Monet, Degas, and Modigliani. 26, Esplanade Marcel Duchamp

places of interest yz Aître Saint-Maclou East of the Church of Saint-Maclou in Rue Martainville lies a courtyard hidden between timber-framed houses. The insignias of the gravediggers in the frieze hold the explanation: this was the place where victims of the plague were buried in a mass grave. When the weather is fine, the shady trees offer a perfect place to relax. Even the art students from the nearby academy don’t disturb the peaceful quiet. 186, Rue Martainville Gros-Horloge The Gros-Horloge from the sixteenth century is built into a Renaissance archway and can be found in the lively Rue du Gros-Horloge. On both sides of the clock displaying the days of the week are the

Musée Flaubert d’Histoire de la Médecine The birthplace of Gustave Flaubert is full of mementos of the famous writer and also houses an interesting exhibition on medical history. Flaubert’s father was a doctor. 51, Rue de Lecat Musée National de l’Éducation In the interior of the beautiful timberframed house, you can learn a lot about the history of childhood and schools in France since the sixteenth century. 185, Rue Eau-de-Robec Musée Le Secq des Tournelles The former Church of Saint Laurent is an elegant setting for the largest artist blacksmith collection in the word (6,000 exhibits). 2, Rue Jacques-Villon Notre-Dame de l’Assomption This Gothic cathedral from the twelfth to sixteenth century is not only the centerpiece of the old town but also one of

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honfleur the most beautiful church buildings in France. It has a grand, flamboyant facade that is flanked by the Tour de SaintRomain on the left and the Tour de Beurre, which was built later (sixteenth century) on the right. The building is often called “butter tower” because it was financed by a tax on dairy products during the fasting period. The equally impressive crossing tower that stands 151 meters tall is the highest church tower in France. Between all the towers, the cathedral has 56 bells. The chancel houses several tombs, among them the burial places of the first Norman duke Rollo (tenth century) and Richard Lionheart. Palais de Justice In the past, the parliament of Normandy met in the grand courthouse in Rue aux Juifs. It is one of the few civil Gothic buildings in France that also has plenty of Renaissance ornaments. Place du Vieux-Marché The old marketplace is surrounded by Norman timber-framed houses on one side and the modern Church Sainte-Jeanne d’Arc, which looks like a Viking ship. On this square, the national saint was burned at the stake on May 30, 1431. A memorial has been erected in her memory. Saint-Ouen If you follow Rue Damiette, you will soon reach the abbey church (abbatiale) of a Benedictine cloister founded during the reign of the Carolingians. The grand Gothic building also has a crossing tower in the Flamboyant style. The interior has beautiful glass windows and a giant organ from the sixteenth century. The ruins of the cloister can be seen on the northern side.

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shopping The city center is a great place for shopping. The pedestrian zone Rue du GrosHorloge has one store after the other. Of course, you will also find the usual brands and chains here. East of the market hall at Place du Vieux-Marché are several small boutiques and delis parallel to the pedestrian zone. The famous Rouen faience wares and handicraft can be found in the former library quarter north of the cathedral. In Rue Saint-Romain, near Place Barthélémy, and in Rue Martainville you can browse a great number of antique shops.

honfleur Picturesque in the truest sense of the word: Claude Monet, Eugène Boudin, and many others set up their easels here. And even today, artists are drawn to the harbor city (population ~8,300) on the Seine estuary, as it has lost nothing of its charm. The only difference to the olden days are the weekends and holidays: you now have to share the place with countless others, and particularly with visitors from Paris. The port basin Vieux Bassin from 1681 has lost nothing of its authentic nautical atmosphere. Several galleries, restaurants, and cafés have opened in the narrow, slate-clad houses. Along the quay, you behold a colorful mixture of fishing boats, yachts, and classic sailing boats. The timber-framed houses in the romantic quarter Sainte-Catherine around the wooden church of the same name invite you to a relaxed stroll. Another recommended sight in Rue de la Ville are the well-preserved salt storage houses from 1670, where once 10,000 tons of salt could be stored. The mineral

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places of interest was needed by both the local fishermen from Newfoundland to conserve cod and by the city of Paris.

places of interest Les Maisons Satie A scenic homage to the composer Erik Satie, who was born in Honfleur in 1866. The museum introduces the works, life, and philosophy of the avant-garde musician who also influenced Débussy, Stravinsky and more modern musicians such as Brian Eno. 67, Blvd. Charles V Mont Joli The winding road to the west of the city leads to the chapel Notre-Damede-Grâce, which was built in the seventeenth century. The square before the a pilgrims’ chapel offers a fantastic panoramic view of Honfleur, the Seine estuary, and the Pont de Normandie. Eugene Boudin Museum Has a considerable collection of pre-impressionistic and contemporary paintings, as well as an exhibition of traditional Norman costumes. Place Erik Satie Pont de Normandie h a Construction of this breathtaking, 2 kilometer long bridge across the Seine estuary to the east of Honfleur was finished in 1995. From the middle of the bridge, you have an incredible view of the estuary. If you want to enjoy this panorama fully, you should leave your car near the Honfleur exit on the free parking lot on the south bank before following the signs to the right of Leclerc supermarket. Just choose the correct side first: to the north lies the Seine estuary, to the south you can behold the hinterland.

Sainte-Catherine The wooden church from the fifteenth century in the old city has to parallel naves and one unconnected bell tower sheeted with shingles made of chestnut. It was originally meant to be only a temporary construction, but today, its simplicity is one of its assets.

shopping The boutique La Voilière (Rue des Lingots) near the church tower sells textiles and accessories in the sailor style. It also has incredibly cute items for children. In addition to its great variety of (mainly) alcoholic beverages made from apples, Gribouille (16, Rue de l’Homme de Bois) also offers other products from the region, such as homemade confitures. Several interesting art galleries can be found around the port basin.

Le Havre On the northern side of the 9 kilometer wide Seine estuary lies Le Havre. The h major port and industrial city (population ~193,000) owes its founding in 1522 and its development to the silting of the old Harfleur harbor upriver. Today, Le Havre is one of the most important export and container harbors in France and a significant hub of sea traffic. It takes the ferry to England approximately five hours to reach Portsmouth from here. The catamaran is even faster (only three hours fifteen minutes). Cruise ships regularly dock at the erstwhile transatlantic terminal. The city was destroyed almost completely in 1945 but then rebuilt under the direction of architect and “concrete poet” Auguste Perret. The mentor of Le Corbusier completed this difficult task with flying colors:

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le havre the 150 hectare city center feels open and weightless, just like the sea. The ensemble of 12,000 apartments, shops, government buildings, culture and religion has been declared a Unesco World Heritage Site. A new bridge has made the old dry docks accessible from the city center. Since then, the Quartier de l’Eure has become a quarter full of life, with shopping passages, cafés, cinemas, hotels, and office buildings. It is hard to imagine today, but Le Havre is also the birthplace of Impressionism. The spot near the harbor where the Semaphor control tower rises high into the sky is where Claude Monet painted his “Soleil levant”.

places of interest Espace Oscar Niemeyer You can make out the Volcan even from afar. It was built in 1982 and dominates the square named after the Brazilian architect. At the moment, the area is being remodeled. Once the work is done, this place will have a large media center. The Le Volcan (www.levolcan.com) theater will also move back to this address. On the opposite side, you can find the Bassin du Commerce port basin and the international trade center. Harbour The sea port of Le Havre is huge: it has 1,100 docks and 30 kilometers of quayside. It covers a 5 kilometer wide and 27 kilometer long area from the west to the east. The 75 regular lines sail to 500 sea ports all over the world. Two fifths of French petroleum imports are handled in Le Havre. With more than 16,000 jobs, the harbor is also one of the biggest employers in the region. The terminal quays of the container port Port 2000 can admit the world’s largest container ships.

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Hôtel de Ville Located only a short distance from Espace Oscar Niemeyer, the large Place de l’Hôtel de Ville lies at the foot of the city hall with its 72 meter high a panorama tower. While the mayor’s seat is reminiscent of socialist architecture, the park honors the Résistance with a memorial. Maison de l’Armateur The chic ship owner’s villa from the eighteenth century can be found at the heart of the city. It has been tastefully remodeled and is now a town history museum. 3, Quai de l’Île Musée d’Art Moderne André Malraux The art museum is housed in a bright glass, steel and concrete building and exhibits some impressive collections. You will find Impressionistic works (approximately 300 works by Boudin, six Monets, and seven Pissarros), as well as pieces in the Fauvism or Cubist style. During the winter months, you can watch the sun set over the ocean and yz ships setting out to sea from the museum’s café. 2, Blvd. Clémenceau | www.muma-lehavre.fr Notre-Dame The cathedral from the sixteenth century is one of the few buildings still standing from the early days after the founding of the city. It was damaged several times and different architectural styles were introduced with rebuilding works. Part of it is clearly Gothic, but the facade already shows a strong Renaissance influence. The church was remodeled after World War II. Sainte-Adresse The once flourishing port city is a suburb of Le Havre along the coastal highway to Étrat. Today, it is a seaside resort with an

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shopping a amazing view from the Neo-Gothic chapel Notre-Dame-des-Flots that is well worth a visit. Upstream are the rocky formations of Cap de la Hève and the old Fort de Sainte-Adresse. Saint-Joseph When Auguste Perret was commissioned to rebuild the City Le Havre, he also replaced the parish church that had been destroyed during the war with a new one. Of course it is made from concrete – 50,000 tons of it. The 109 meter high, octagonal tower rises up like a beacon in homage to the maritime importance of the city. The 6,500 glass windows fashioned by Marguerite Huré bathe the interior in a different light depending on the position of the sun.

shopping Like with many European port cities, Le Havre’s formerly rather unattractive waterfront has been given a new purpose. This has led to an interesting mixture of the time-honored architecture of the docks and the modern department store Docks Vauban (70, Quai Frissard). 50 retail shops selling labels of greater and lesser known brands, restaurants, and a cinema are open to customers even on Sundays and bank holidays. Photo-Trehet F. Marine (65, Rue de Paris) is a little more particular: the store has a large selection of more than 75,000 photos of ships from all countries and eras, as well as images of the city from the past and

Cheese from Normandy Camembert – During his flight to escape the revolutionaries, a priest from Brie thanked the farmer Marie Harel from the village of Camembert for her help and gave her the recipe for this cheese. Produced with the milk from the local Norman milk cows, the cheese and its unmistakable chipboard packaging quickly became famous. Traditionally, you have dry cider with the cheese (instead of red wine), remove the cheese rind, and only eat the dough with a green salad. Neufchâtel – This cheese is possibly the oldest in France and was mentioned in writings as early as 1050. It got its name from the village of Neufchâtel-en-Bray, where it is produced. The typical form is heart-shaped.

Livarot – The origin of this farmer cheese can be traced back to the Late Middle Ages. It was named after the village of Livarot, but its nickname “Colonel” comes from the five reed ribbons tied around its orange-red, washed rind (a French colonel wears five stripes on his shoulders and sleeves). Pont-l’Évêque – This cheese was also named after its place of production, and it has been around for about 700 years. Like the other three mentioned above, this is another soft cheese made from cow’s milk and bears the A.O.C. status (trademarked origin). An organic pigment from Australia gives its rind the orange color. The flavor is slightly salty with a hint of fruit or hazelnut.

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ÉTRETAT present. A veritable treasure trove!

ÉTRETAT What was once a quiet fishing town 30 kilometers north of Le Havre has developed into a lively seaside resort (population ~1,600) that attracts many visitors. The grandiose backdrop of white limestone lining the pebbled beach on both sides is a particularly a sight to behold. To protect your mental well-being as well as the environment, you should refrain from trying to find a place to park your car in one of the narrow alleys. Instead, you can drive straight to the large parking lot near Rue Guy de Maupassant (D39) that is only approximately 400 meters from the city center. The city has a beautifully renovated wooden market hall (in the past, the goods were sold downstairs and the money was counted upstairs). To the west lies cape a Falaise d’Aval. From here, you have a great view of the Aiguille rock needle and the cliffs of the

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Manneporte natural archway out at sea. To the east, a yz Falaise d’Amont offers a beautiful panoramic view of the town and the photogenic rocky formations vis-à-vis. The peak rising high into the sky brings to mind Charles Nungesser and François Coli. The brave pilots would have become pioneers of aviation history before even Charles Lindbergh when they attempted to cross the Atlantic to New York. Unfortunately, they were last seen in the skies above Étrat ... 4 kilometers to the north east lies a Cap de Belval, where you can admire another rock needle – the Aiguille Belval. Leaving the town in the direction of Le Havre, you will pass Le Valaine, where Agnès and Bernard Dherbécourt take care of around 60 goats on the grounds of their elegant home Manoir de Cateuil (Route du Havre | www.levalaine.com). They make their own delicious cheese, ice cream, and chocolate from the milk, and you are welcome to watch the process. Their products are sold in the farm shop.

Clifs in Étretat

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IMPRINT © 2017 MAIRDUMONT, MAIRDUMONT BUSINESS SOLUTIONS Marco-Polo-Straße 1, 73760 Ostfildern, Tel. 0711/4502-0, Fax 0711/4502-351 The name Marco Polo is a registered trademark. All national and international rights reserved. No part of this publication - or extracts of this publication - may be used, transmitted, copied, translated, adapted, micro-filmed, stored or processed in any elecronical system without the express permission of Mairdumont GmbH & Co. KG. Concept and outworking: Jennifer Elsner & Franziska Kastner Photo credits: Photos: DuMont Bildarchiv: Tom Schulze (47, 64, 67, 70/71), Sabine Lubenow (23), Thomas Linkel (5), Rainer Kiedrowski (10), Ralf Freyer (31, 32, 63), Georg Knoll (35, 39, 40), Peter Hirth (44), Ernst Wrba (53, 54), Anzenberger-Fink (50), Michael Pasdzior (90); Laif/hemis.fr: L. Montico (30); Franz Zwickl (12, 20, 42/43, 48, 60, 96); Lüftner Cruises (17, 18, 69); Florin Andreescu (72); Alain Huon (85) Dear Reader, We endeavour to provide you with the most up to date information. However, facts often change very qickly and sometimes errors creep in - despite in-depth research by the autor. All information provided was correct at the time of going to press of this travel guide. Despite careful scrutiny, no warranty/liability can be assumed for the accuracy on the information. MAIRDUMONT isn’t responsible for the content of external links.

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Your Amadeus Cruiser Club

Have you been on a cruise with us before and made lots of exciting discoveries and really loved it? If so, then you are warmly invited to join our Amadeus Cruisers Club. Hundreds of destinations, thousands of kilometers of rivers and endless options: whoever travels with us is rewarded for his loyalty with many advantages starting with the very next cruise.

Your AMADEUS CLUB Rewards: Membership in the Amadeus Cruisers Club:

You can become a member after your very first cruise on board an Amadeus ship, and enjoy the following benefits: • An exclusive on-board credit of € 30,- per person on your next cruise • Private AMADEUS CLUB cocktail reception with the cruise director

Amadeus Cruisers Club STAR membership:

After your 3rd cruise on an Amadeus ship, you become a STAR MEMBER and enjoy the following benefits:

• An exclusive on-board credit of € 50,- per person on your next cruise • Private AMADEUS CLUB cocktail reception with the cruise director • A welcome gift in your cabin • An invitation to sit at the captain’s table during the Captain’s Gala Dinner • Free upgrade of your cabin to the next category at the start of your cruise (subject to availability)

Find out more on board or on our website www.amadeus-rivercruises.com