Issuu

THE ANDROGYNY ISSUE

SUSSY

WHERE THE DEEPEST FLAWZ ARE FORCED OUT OF ART & FASHION, CREATING AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE

flawzmagazine.com flawzmagazine FLAWZmagazine FLAWZ | THE MAGAZINE

EDITORS

LETTER FROM THE

ndrogyny has always played such a vital role in fashion. With the industry, focusing more on gender-neutral clothing, or unisex clothing, androgyny is more of an art form than just a man wearing a dress. It’s Gaga dressing up as a man in her video “You and I”, and staying true to character. It’s Grace Jones's ability to use her masculinity to not define her, but to own it and let it be a part of her very being. It’s David Bowie, Prince, Madonna, Boy George, and countless others. I knew I wanted to bring awareness of this concept to SecondLife in a way that will shine a light on those who have also embraced their androgynous side. This issue is also a dedication to those amazing artists, pioneers, and storytellers we call designers and editors, who have passed away in the last few months. Virgil Abloh, who past away in November. André Leon Talley, who passed away recently on January 18th and a few days after, Manfred Thierry Mugler, who died January 23. Its been so devastating losing these three men who have, in their own way, changed the course of fashion as we know it. Abloh, who took over as artistic director of Louis Vuitton and ran his own brand Off-White, was the first black man to do so. He brought his own street-urban style to the LVMH brand. Mr. Talley who I myself have only come across, never got the chance to meet personally but have been in his presence. He became the first black editor-at-large for Vogue and the first black male creative director. He was a huge inspiration to me for so many reasons. And of course, we have the legend, Thierry Mugler, who became known for his outlandish, avant-garde, architectural, hyper-feminine and theatrical approach to haute couture. All three men have left memorable legacies behind that will never be matched. Our cover boy, Sussy, graces the cover of our 9th issue. Our editor Venus sits and talks to him about his cover, fashion, and what androgyny means to him. We based this issue off of him, we wanted to show androgyny has nothing to do with being gay. Androgyny has everything to do with a mood and feeling. Being able to convey femininity, without it feeling like a costume. It’s camp in all its glory.

This issue's TRENDZ report and of The Top Shop on SL that design unisex clothing spired by androgyny. The TRENDZ report to wear come Spring/Summer 2022 and Life brands have already captured the Top 10 brands will cater to your androgyn a fashion-forward and stylish manner.

On the eve of our 10th issue, I reflect on From our first issue to our 5th and now have accomplished, broken barriers, set shined a light on the injustices and disc this country in our magazine. We will con the boundaries of fashion, and controv that affect all of us. We are looking to FLAWZ and the future is bright! We tha who has had a part and has contributed want to thank my editors as always, an work and dedication to this magazine. A to all of those who have supported us an tinued to support us. Stay tuned for what the near future.

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J’ADORE RA RONIN

FOUNDER + EDITOR IN CHIEF

appy New Year! What a roller coaster of a year for us all. With all of the highs and lows of the past year, one thing is for sure creativity never ceases to amaze. I want to personally thank each and every one of our participants for showcasing your amazing creations. It truly showcases what the essence of Second Life is all about and that creativity knows no bounds. With 2021 behind us and 2022 before us let us take a moment to thank all of the front-line workers who have worked tirelessly throughout the COVID-19 pandemic. I have such huge respect for all the nurses and doctors who’ve already been working flat out for nearly two years. These caring people are showing extraordinary acts of kindness to others. Thank you so much for your work and it is truly appreciated. With that being said let's get into this issue of FLAWZ! Flawz Magazine has always been a champion of celebrating individuality and has always represented the unconventional. With this issue, we wanted to showcase androgyny. Androgyny through examples of Grace Jones, Lady Gaga, David Bowie, and others has been a mainstay in pop culture. With this issue, we asked our photographers to showcase their talents relating to androgyny and convey them in their own styles. Fashion has always expressed androgyny through its runways shows, makeup, photography, and more. Within this issue, you’ll see the exceptional talents of our photographers and designers and see their takes on androgyny. As always thank you for reading and have a wonderful new year!

ARMAND PARKS

CHIEF CREATIVE DIRECTOR

ndrogyny. This theme is so exciting to me because of how powerful of a political statement this concept is, and how experimental one is able to get with said concept. On our cover for the 9th issue of Flawz Magazine, is the stunning anomaly, Sussy. They are seriously such a creative talent and I must say, this was truly a dream collaboration working with them on their editorials and cover. We aim to always strive for high-fashion with an experimental twist, and being that the theme calls for androgynous tones, Sussy fit this role seamlessly. We were inspired heavily by artist, Arca, as well as, aesthetics ranging from post-apocalyptic themes, to futuristic haute-couture fantasies. We also wanted to take this issue to honor some legends in the fashion industry that recently and tragically passed away. We lost Virgil Abloh, André Leon Talley, and Manfred Thierry Mugler. To say that we as a team, who love and appreciate fashion to the highest degree, are devastated would be an understatement. So we pay homage to them as well. Thank you to everyone who supports Flawz and our message, we hope you enjoy this striking issue.

VENUS

CHIEF FASHION EDITOR

ussy Kleinmahn graced the cover of the Androgyny issue. What a perfect match! By combining femininity, masculinity & alien chic they completely destroy the boxes society tries to put all of us in. Their creative collaboration with our chief fashion editor, Venus Germanotta, seems like a creative duo straight from heaven. Or shall I say Mars? As someone who likes to play with gender norms myself, I believe that the future is androgynous. No more boxes, no more restrictions. It’s time to break the boundaries of the binary. This issue is definitely a step towards exciting changes. Buckle up and prepare for a journey into a world of creative freedom.

MAYA REYES

EDITOR AT LARGE

Venus: Hi Sussy! We finally get to sit and chat, well how are you? And I’ve always wanted to ask you, how did you discover Second Life? Sussy: Hey V! Im doing well thanks, and I discovered Second Life when I was a teen. I was looking for a game like The Sims but online and Second Life was one of the first results. At first, I didn’t see the creative side of this virtual world and it was kind of boring not knowing where to go and all of that stuff. Venus: I think most of us relate to that. I’m so glad you were able to stay and explore Second Life more. What inspires your fashion/style? What are some things that bring you inspiration? Sussy: I get inspired by many things like art, people, and types of style. My mood of the day plays a big role too. I don’t like to put myself in a box when I can play with everything in here. Venus: That’s interesting because you have a very unique and different style about yourself. How would you describe it and how did you get into photography and fashion on Second Life? Sussy: Thank you so much! I define myself as very eclectic and I think that reflects on my clothes as well. I love fashion in general and I truly appreciate all forms of self-expression. I got into SL fashion and photography as soon as I found out that it was a thing! I adore fashion in real-life, so I thought it was cool to materialize ideas that I have in my head, onto this virtual world.

Venus: Your editorial spreads for this issue were heavily inspired by the artist known as Arca, do you resonate with her? Sussy: I absolutely love her and loved the idea. I can resonate with her as part of the lgbtiq+ community, being from South America, and being a musician as well. She’s playing such a big role for the trans community, and all the community, as well as, being a huge component in the music industry. Arca is giving us visibility, showing that we matter and that we can be appreciated. Venus: I love that you said that because when we were exploring ideas for your spreads, Arca came to mind immediately. I agree wholeheartedly with what you said, she is a source of hope for not just the LGBTQ+, but all artists alike. Your fashion and style have always played on the theme of androgyny. What are your thoughts about gender identity and gender expression on Second Life? Do you believe we have evolved to be more inclusive of said expressions and identities on the grid?

Sussy: I think that you can be or wear whatever makes you feel comfortable and connected with your true self. For example, here I can play and express more of my feminine side than I do in real life because there’s no real danger. You can just log off and go on. But in real life it is different and it can get really ugly because of the homophobia and all that ignorance and rage for minorities in general. It’s hard, it takes so much deconstruction, including me as well sometimes, but I’m positive about things changing for the better. We’re so diverse and I think that should be celebrated and respected, not the other way around. I think that real-life reflects on the grid. Second Life is run by the same humans so it’s the same for me. Venus: How did you come up with your brand/store Faceshop? Sussy: I came up with Faceshop out of curiosity. I always loved to draw and I’ve loved using photoshop since I was a 13-year-old kid, so it was something to try at any moment. Since I started seeing all that you can create on Second Life, I knew that I was going to take my shot at learning new things and well, seeing what I can accomplish with the things that I already knew. Venus: What can we expect from your store in the future? Sussy: You can expect skins! that was my first idea when I created the brand and that’s why the name is what it is. I’ve been working for so long and I’m excited for the project to finally see the light of day. Venus: I’m so looking forward to your skins! If it were up to you, what would you like to see from creators moving forward? Sussy: I would love to see new creators! If the market expands, there would be more diverse items of all kinds. To name one thing specifically, I’m hoping to see more feminine clothing rigged for male bodies and more masculine clothing rigged for femme bodies as well. Venus: What exciting things can we expect from Sussy in the future? Sussy: With Sussy, you’ll never know. There are no limits. Venus: Sussy, it has been such a pleasure getting to talk to you today. Thank you for letting us delve a little bit into your brain and seeing what drives your creativity. I can’t wait to see you continue to blossom as an artist and creator. We’re thrilled to have you be a part of the Flawz Magazine team and experience. Sussy: Thank you, V!

EDITORIALS

PHOTOGRAPHER:

SERIES:

CRUELLA DE VIL 40

GENDER-BENT SOCIETY Hello Darlings! For this issue, we are celebrating Androgyny in all sorts of ways, whether it is a man, a woman, or in-between. In this issue, I decided to highlight one of the more prominent pop, rock, and synth artists that I grew up with, and who I am still listening to! The photo with Annie Lennox in it, is of course a Eurythmics - Sweet Dreams music video inspiration, and I have to say, I am quite impressed on how I was able to create make my own little spin on it. Annie Lennox was known as the gender bender of the 80s, even though she never saw herself as one, in her own words, she was, "making a statement in a subtle way", and with that, she was saying "Look, as a woman, I can be equal to a man." The photo with the silver words named DORIAN is a tribute to the frog-mountain-dew addicted flamboyant king themselves Dorian Electra, Dorian came to me when they were rather new at making music videos, I remember seeing the music video "Our Musical Ode to the Clitoris", and YES that is a song! As a gay man who was never into pop synth, I absolutely fell in love with the spunk and the cute creativity that Dorian was making, and I will continue to love Dorian Electra. They are definitely worth a listen if you want some psychedelic music! Lastly, the photo with the person standing amongst the folk mass is basically me, and how I view the world, I see everything in gray tones around me, and the people that do stand out, get to be in color. It can mean many other things too, as an androgynous man myself (who used to do drag) I've always found myself free to express myself in any way I could, and I always do, sometimes I feel like a woman, but deep down I know that I am a man, and as a society, we should NEVER be afraid of feeling a bit feminine. Instead, we should embrace it and normalize it.

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AZONIQUE 52

BEND THE RULES

Hair - i.mesh Rings - Minimal Nails - L’Emporio&PL Earrings - Fakeicon Eye Makeup - Dotty’s Secret Lipstick - Moccino Beaute Top - David Heather Pants - OVH

Suit - Minimal Shoes - Renegade Hair - Punklist Earring - L’Emporio&PL Eyeliner - Dotty’s Secrets

Hair - Faceshop Hat - David Heather Corset - OVH Eyeshadow - Revoul Lipstick - Moccino Beaute Earrings - L’Emporio&PL and FAKE

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CAROLINA SCHÖN 58

MASC-FEMME CITY

Carolina delivers a series of striking portraits showcasing a very androgynous style. Really playing with masculine and feminine energies, she does a great job of displaying the duality that these styles can have in fashion, in a more modern-chic and lifestyle setting.

M.BIRDIE / Anorak ops set Ketan (Asian Model): tram J1213 hair(Style1) Caro: himlakropp hair

Ketan (Asian Model): M.BIRDIE / Lottie look Shirt tram K0729 hair M.BIRDIE / HanLa Look Pants Caro: Pixicat / Tova Boyfriend Jean AMITOMO / Come With Me Giz Zeorn / Riley Tank Top tram K0707 hair

Caro: M. Birdie / benni Look tram j0121 hair Ketan (Asian Model): Giz Seorn / Jenna Shorts M.BIRDIE / moos look. Jacket M.BIRDIE / moos look. HAIR M.BIRDIE / moos look. shoes

M.Birdie / Denber Look Top Caro: M.Birdie / Lootie Look Beret M. Birdie / benni Look earrings Ketan (Asian Model): M.Birdie / Denber Look necklace tram K0227 hair Backdrop MINIMAL - Downtown of Vancouver Scene

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FRANKIE DEL REY 64

DRAGGED BY ANIME

Anime and music has always been an inspiration when it comes to being creative. My submissions cater to a simple but expressive look of some of my favourite anime characters. Guess who is who? Most Makeup can be found at Dotty's Secret Mainstore.

Dotty’s Secret - The Liner [Vol 1] Dotty’s Secret - Cheek Contour Dotty’s Secret - Inner Corner Highlight Dotty’s Secret - Karma Lipstick FATHER - Sickly Eye Makeup Faceshop - Hairbase 2 BOYS TO THE BONE - Fin Trecnch Coat DOUX - Coven with Hat CULT - Devil Rings

Dotty’s Secret - The Liner [Vol 1] Dotty’s Secret - Cheek Contour Dotty’s Secret - Inner Corner Highlight FATHER - Matte Lipstick FATHER - Sickly Eye Makeup Faceshop - Hairbase 2 CULT - Devil Rings HARO - Earrings FAKEICON - Sheer Top Zibska ~ Portent !SH Noda Flexi

Dotty’s Secret - The Liner [Vol 2] Dotty’s Secret - Cheek Contour Dotty’s Secret - Pop Art Face Lines FATHER - Ghostly Lips and Eye Makeup Bonbon - Junko Hair BOYS TO THE BONE - honung blazer

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PARADOX MERCURY 72

FAME + GENDER

In this series of editorials, Dox explores the way androgyny was expressed in the world of rock n' roll music, and creates tribute styles inspired by what some of his favorite androgynous style icons famously wore. His first tribute is to Queen frontman, Freddie Mercury. In his second photo it's the enigmatic Brian Eno. The third photo is the glam starman himself, David Bowie. The 4th pic is of Genesis-era Peter Gabriel, who wasn't afraid to wear a dress on stage, and the 5th photo pays homage to the gender-bending styles of the New York Dolls, who proved that you could still have masculine swagger while crossdressing.

Crown: Kings and Queens Crown by #MG Hair: Neal by BURLEY Eyeliner: Guyliner by Izzie’s Necklace: Lustful Jewelry Set by MANDALA Nails: Bento Nail Mesh Male Pointed Grid by StunnerOriginals Heels: Eir Heels by Boys to the Bone Bodysuit: MercurySuit-Harlequin by (BYRNE)

Hair: Vogue Hair #2 by Boys to the Bone Lipstick: Lustre Tints by Action Ears: Last Pioneer Mesh Ears by PUMEC Necklace: Beads Long Necklace by Kibitz Shoulder Accessory: Raven Pauldrons by Pucca Firecaster Creations Top: Quango Crop Top by Mondo Nails & Rings: Damned Claws & Rings by L’Emporio Pants: Leather Leggings by NOCHE

Hair: Altair by Sintiklia Eyeshadow: Insta Eyeshadow by Top1Salon Blush: Glam Rock by Dotty’s Secret Forehead Tattoo: Ziggy by (BYRNE) Guitar: Jon Satriachi Guitar by Di’s Stuff Scarf: Derick Scarf- Motif by DIRAM Lipstick: Urban Statement Lipstick by Deche Coat: High Collar Jacket by Hotdog Pants: Groovy Flares by Hotdog

Hair: From Yesterday by Exile Fox Mask: Taru Fox Mask by Luova Eye Makeup: Banshee Eyeshadow by Nar Mattaru Face Paint: Thraso Face Paint by HANDverk Bracelets: Dakota Bracelets by Legal Insanity Choker: Aquilagi Choker (Lunar Mare) by Rozoregalia Dress: Angest Dress by Boys to the Bone Instrument: Pani Coin Tambourine by Soul Mates

Hair: Beckon by Analog Dog Shirt: Kalie Blouse by Stories&Co Necklace: Lestat Necklace by Garmonbozia Nails: K-Pop Nails by Ascendant Scarf: Adam Scarf- Black Stripes by DIRAM Lipstick: Urban Statement Lipstick by Deche Shorts & Boots: Remy Short with Boots by Hilly Haalan Holding Accessory: Secession Shoulder Fur by titzuki

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ANDRO COUTURIER

EVIL Evil has created a beautiful collection of images that represent how he views the concept of androgyny. He achieved this through the use of haute-couture and avantgarde pieces.

The truth is… I’ve always considered myself inspired

by and influenced by those who broke the gender norms. Those who dared to push the boundaries of what’s “expected” out of Women and Men. And if I had to be honest, before the world came to know Stefani “Lady Gaga” Germanotta. There was the one and ONLY one! Grace Jones! There was David Bowie, Prince, and even some old lady named Madonna. When it comes to fashion, androgyny has taken over in recent years. From Jaden Smith fronting Louis Vuitton’s womenswear campaign, Young Thug wearing a dress on his album cover, to Billy Porter wearing a dress to the Academy Awards, androgynous fashion has always been around in some way, shape, or form. But where exactly did it come from, and what exactly does ‘androgynous fashion’ mean? ANDROGYNOUS stems from the Latin word ‘androgyne’ used to describe a blend of male and female characteristics. So that translates to Men wearing “gender normal” Women’s clothing, and Women wearing “stereotypical” Men’s clothing.

WHERE DID ANDROGYNOUS FASHION COME FROM?

When I attended Parsons School of Design, one of the programs I took on was Design History & Practice. In which we learned that women became tired of wearing tight-fitting corsets and accentuated dresses that did nothing but take away from their daily activities. In the 1800s and 1900s, Women’s Rights activists like Elizabeth Cady Stanton and Luisa Capetillo (who was the first woman in Puerto Rico to wear a men’s suit and tie in public) began to publicly highlight to women around the world that clothes worn by men were far more convenient for movement and began to challenge the restrictive nature of female clothing. Then when World War 1 came about, men went to fight, and the women took on employment. Fashion changed to accommodate women now working in the factory mils. Design icons like Coco Chanel popularized the ‘flapper style’ which drew on male motifs. Then in 1939, the world was once again faced with another war, as World War II began. Women went back to work, and fashion again changed as the world did.

MUSIC AND ITS IMPACT ON ANDROGYNOUS FASHION

MUSIC (especially R&B, Rap, and Pop) has always played a vital role in fashion. Especially when it comes to the impact on the popularization of androgynous fashion. In the ’70s and ’80s, icons like Jimi Hendrix wore ‘women's’ blouses and high heels, and David Bowie and Annie Lennox sent cult androgynous style into the mainstream fashion world. Designers such as Saint Laurent, to Jean Paul Gaultier, continue to subvert gender norms throughout this period, and with the rise of new avant-garde designers such as Yohji Yamamoto, androgynous fashion has integrated into the mainstream fashion world.

MODERN 21st CENTURY ANDROGYNY

In today’s fashion climate, most if not all brands are adopting androgynous collections. To the point where most fashion critics have even said, women’s wear and men’s wear should be a thing of the past, only calling it autumn and winter collections, spring and summer collections, and couture fall, winter, and spring and summer. I agree! Fashion houses such as Gucci, Balenciaga, Vetements, Telfar, Louis Vuitton, Rick Owens, Raf Simons, and countless others have all adopted a unisex component in their collections to fit the norm.

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MVD

HARSHBOY

AZOURY

HOLY EVOLUTIONARY

OVERHIGH

LABEL

FAKEICON

ARCHIVEFACTION

.SHI

BOYS TO THE BONE

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REAL LIFE Second life

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TRENDZ: Winter / Spring Trends Real Life and Second Life 2022 Jan 20, 2022, by RACOUTURE Now that 2021 has come to an end, we look forward to 2022 and all it has in store for us. We could do without a few things. The major one, COVID’s continuous annoyance. But when it comes to the fashion, we are looking backwards (again) for inspiration. From pearl chokers to electric blue party dresses. 2022 seems to be more like the 1990s.

PEARLCORE

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Real Life Reference:

Second Life Reference:

First, pearlcore, the lovechild of our obsession with all things Regency, Baroque and Rococo this year. Think, grandma’s pearls. Keep them on hand to clutch alongside your three-strand Vivienne Westwood choker. The search for pearl gowns and necklaces has risen by three and seven times respectively, while pearl-themed wedding decor has increased by a staggering 185%.

SEVEN (Doja Stacked Necklaces), SEVEN (Designer Stacked Necklaces) DOPE + MERCY (M Pearl Set), AUREALIS, x OSMIA (Historia earrings and layered necklace), BLUPRNT (Cross Pearl Necklace) SEUL x PSEUDO ( Embellished Vest and Skirt).

DOPAMINE DRESSING

Real Life Reference:

Second Life Reference:

Dressing loud isn’t technically anything new. The level of loud pieces has ranged from your typical loud prints from designers such as Versace, Roberto Cavalli, Moschino, and Etro, to voluminous sleeves, ruffles, and embroidered pieces. The heavy metals and citrus oranges that have dominated the spring/summer ‘22 runways so far are joined next year by electric blue, a shade which has increased in pins on the platform by 140 %. So bring these looks into your SL style.

MELANGE (The Cancun Set), MELANGE (The Fatima Set), ROWNE (The Gabrielle Bikini Set & Daria Maxi Skirt), HEAVN (Daisy 4-piece Ensemble), MOXY (Yara Dress), MOXY (Mata Dress), DAVID HEATHER (Flan Blazer), STUDIO NOVA (Donna Dress), A BREAKFAST CONVO (Sen Blazer and Armor NYE Dress, and Kylie NYE Dress).

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OH MY GOTH

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Real Life Reference:

Second Life Reference:

Yep! Goth is still that girl! So embrace it. The alternative subculture enters the mainstream once more next year, with searches for goth business casual, and even goth pj’s. Expect corsets, fishnets, velvets and lace to creep into the fashion picture.

MVD (Glamonatrix Gown), MVD (Glamonatrix Collection), QUEENZ (Gothika Set & Mask), ROWNE (Savits Masked Bodysuit and Angel Knit Skirt), ROWNE (The Baguci Masked Bodysuit & Raut Lace Skirt), LABEL (Emily boots), HACHE (Shell catsuit), HOLY EVOLUTIONARY (Crucify Platform Boots), ARCHIVEFACTION (Circadian Rhythm Tactical Vest, Circadian Rhythm Pants & Belt, Circadian Rhythm Sneakers), ARCHIVEFACTION (Army Boots and Trousers, Tactical Vest), FAKEICON (Lumps Coat), FAKEICON (Tatum Hat and Veil).

TRENDZ: Winter / Spring Trends Real Life and Second Life 2022

CHECK YOURSELF

Real Life Reference:

Second Life Reference:

Checkerboard patterns have made a come back. After a brief dropped out of sight after a post Queens Gambit frenzy. This look, on anything from tops, coats, and bags, will definitely be a MUST have next year.

FAKEICON (Pasas Chaps), FAKEICON (Dizen Coat), HACHE (Chess Suit), HACHE (Decadence Suit), QUEENZ (Elusive Set), QUEENZ (Ornate Set), BTTB (Stoit Dress & Fördom belt), BTTB (Punkare Beret), ISON (Falconer Pleated Skirt), CATARSIS (Jamming Dress), HIMEDREAM (Mira Outfit).

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TRENDZ: Winter / Spring Trends Real Life and Second Life 2022

LOUNGE-WEAR

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Real Life Reference:

Second Life Reference:

With some of us still working from home, its become so easy to just hop out of bed, brush our hair, teeth, and to leave our bottom half of our pjs on, and throw on a top, or blazer. Lounge-wear, has exploded onto the scene, and this look will continue into 2022. Silk ensembles, and fur trimmed sets work with wearing out to any event, or meeting. Pair with one of the other 4 trends and you’re just about ready for 2022. Just don’t forget your mask!

ROWNE (The Odiele Organza Dress), TETRA (Purity Set), SILK ROAD (Dress Sexy Bitch), A BREAKFAST CONVO (Pajamas Set & Lingerie Dress), A BREAKFAST CONVO (Sasha Selfie Cover Up), A BREAKFAST CONVO (Donna Jacket), A BREAKFAST CONVO (Chinese Kitty Set), A BREAKFAST CONVO (Minorie Silk&Lace Robe), A BREAKFAST CONVO(Beile Satin Set), A BREAKFAST CONVO (Deluxe Robes), A BREAKFAST CONVO (Bib Jumpsuit), A BREAKFAST CONVO (Marabou Romper), A BREAKFAST CONVO (Doll Fur Outfit).

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BY RACOUTURE

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The date is June 21, 2018, and Virgil showcases his

first collection at the garden of the Palais Royal. The inspiration is “The Wizard of Oz”. Hence the rainbow-colored runway. This collection set the tone for what was to surely come at Louis Vuitton. The underlining theme for his shows was “Boyhood”. His entire collection, and work for that matter, all tied back to “Boyhood”. With Virgil, if you were to go back and evaluate his entire work, it all showcased his love of playing. I think back to how Michael Jackson was the same way. They both left an array of inspiration behind, but it all had humor and a joyful undertone to it.

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At his last show in Miami, November 30th, 2021, there was some ambient music and a specific quote from Virgil that sums up his career very well, he said, “I’ve been on this focus in terms of my art and creativity of getting adults to behave like children again. That they go back into the sense of wonderment. They start to stop using their mind and they start using their imagination”. Even as I write this, I can’t help but think of how as we get older, our sense of imagination, wonder, freedom, joy, and play get replaced by having to “grow up”. How we are told to “act like an adult” simply because we condition our minds to think that all of the pleasures of a young child must somehow be replaced with ditching our childlike mind into adulthood. But we still play video games (like SecondLife). We still find joy in rewatching cartoons or movies we saw as children. This is what Michael and Virgil wanted. They did not just want adults but also kids to go back to being…. Kids. Virgil never lost sight of his child-like behavior. Not even at LV, after all, isn’t fashion about fantasy? I mean I can't count how many designers have referenced or found inspiration in fantasy, whimsy, and youth. And with that, Virgil attracted millions of fans who shared that same sentiment.

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Thousands showed up at the Miami show to get a glimpse of his last show, and in their own way, to say goodbye. Virgil had passed away from cardiac angiosarcoma. For many, it didn’t come as a surprise. I’ve said to some, that I’ve noticed Virgil's appearance changing over some time, but you would have never known he was sick or suffering. Virgil hid his ailments from his fans and his work. And again, you could see the joy and freedom in his work. His last collection, from the hot air balloon to the trees protruding out of the runway, were all aspects of Virgil’s imagination. Even the trees had meaning, they were thin birch trees which was a symbol that was part of the “amen break” short film and was strongly reminiscent of the fake forest in the empty gallery in New York that served as the American flagship for the Off-White brand. The whole show was capped off with strongly colored lights that switched between the colors of the rainbow, which is another symbol that Virgil carried through his time at Louis Vuitton. The rainbow themes continued right up to the very end of Virgil’s life. The stadium across from the final runway glowed with the churning rainbow displayed through the show and the same lights were reflected on the runway.

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There are already so many working artists now who cite Virgil as an influence on their work but just imagine how much that scope is going to increase over the next 10 years. I have to admit, in the beginning, I wasn’t that big of a fan of Virgil. Never wore anything from Off-White and Louis Vuitton, wasn’t a brand that anyone was wearing, more so just having one of their leather goods from them. However, after Virgil came on, I did pay more attention to his artistic side, and how it was more influential at LV, than Off-White. I mean creatively, it was louder and bolder than it was at his label. Who knows the reason, but it remains that his time at LV was nothing short of destiny. If you ever had a chance to meet or speak to Virgil, you would know that unlike his other counterparts in this industry, Virgil spoke. He not only spoke to his friends and colleagues but to those people who he was inspired by. I had a chance to speak to Virgil after his second show, and I remember him looking at me as I told him, I loved his show, and the colors and fits. He then said to me which came as a shock “which pieces didn’t you like? I always get the, "They liked it" (lol) but, "Tell me what didn’t you like”? That took me by surprise, not because of what he said, but because of him paying attention to someone who came to see his artistry. I’ve spoken to other designers and had the pleasure to attend shows before and I can say, most of the designers I’ve met, don’t even speak to you let alone want to have anyone backstage who isn’t an editor or buyer. Virgil was never like that. He wanted the interaction and opinions of those who looked like him, came from the same humble beginnings as him. People who were art students, fashion lovers, music lovers, cartoonists, and most importantly those who had the vision and imagination of a child. At the end of his first show at Louis Vuitton, Virgil posted a picture of him standing on the runway with a caption that just read, “You can do it too”, snd he lived by that. This wasn’t just a quote, this touched and reached so many people, inspiring…. Everything. In the end, I did get emotional writing this. It’s sad when someone so influential passes way before their time. But as I said, he’s with the elders and ancestors now and as we continue on this planet, let us remember what Virgil stood for, and the message he left behind. Nothing in this world is impossible. You HAVE to have the vision and determination. Because like he said, “YOU can do it too”. Rest in Power Virgil. Rest with the ancestors. Please watch over him, and be with his wife and family. Amen.

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BY ARMAND PARKS

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On January 18th, 2022 the fashion industry was

dealt a significant blow with the passing of an iconic editor of Vogue Magazine, André Leon Talley. He was 73. His fashion sense and talent were a compass for the fashion industry and he changed how fashion could be interpreted. Coming from my hometown of Durham, North Carolina, and growing up in the Jim Crow south, the odds of him becoming a fashion editor was slim to none. On a personal note, I attended North Carolina Central University which was the same university he attended, and a couple of years ago I had a conversation about André with a professor of mine. She at the time was at the launch of her teaching career and she remembered André would come into her class always dressed with a scarf draped around his shoulders, wore vibrant colored suits, and always stood out among his peers. She recalled that his peers would constantly belittle him and insult him because he had the where-with-all to celebrate his individuality. He did not care. She stated that she was always proud of him and admired that one of her students became the success that he was. André Leon Talley was my inspiration and my initial introduction to fashion along with Vogue. I always loved the grand presentation of his clothing choices and for him, working with the ICONIC editor of Vogue Magazine, Diana Vreeland. He shattered the glass ceiling making the statement that people of color exist in this space too. With his vast knowledge of fashion labels, designers, fabrics, and more, it also came at a cost.

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As even our Editor-in-Chief, J’adore has experienced, the fashion industry has a dark and ugly side especially when it comes to people of color. This to me contributed to his death as well. To me, it was not just because of COVID-19 or a heart attack that ended his life. I believe he was also dealing with a devastating case of a broken heart. Many of his friends within the industry had abandoned him, especially since he left Vogue in 2013. Anna Wintour, the current editor in chief of Vogue replaced him as a host of the Met Gala with a Youtuber and TikTok personality that did not have the fashion expertise or encyclopedic knowledge of the fashion labels that graced its carpet. The fashion industry exploited his talent, knowledge, style sense and then cast him aside. The racist remarks he endured throughout his career, such as being called “Queen Kong”, did not dampen his love for fashion as he continued to persevere.

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His book, “The Chiffon Trenches” goes deeper into this. “I don’t live for fashion … Fashion is fleeting, style remains” – André Leon Talley, The Gospel According to Andre. With that being said, the fashion industry still has a lot of growing to do. Still, to this day, there are little to no black editors that are in high positions at the landmark fashion magazines today. Edward Enninful, who is the Editor-in-Chief of British Vogue, is one of the few that came after Talley. Edward himself thanked him for opening the door in his tribute to André on Instagram. From all the magazines he contributed to including; Ebony, Women’s Wear Daily (WWD), and Vogue, he made sure to feature black designers and models that were making a statement in the industry. André fought hard and won because he didn’t just shatter ceilings or open doors, they opened for him and shattered for him. He was a pioneer and an icon that we lost all too soon. André, thank you for all that you have done, and may your legacy endure.

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BY MAYA REYES

On January 23rd, we lost one of the most talented and unique fashion design-

ers of our time. Thierry Mugler was, is, and always will be my number one source of inspiration. His designs, aesthetics, and runway shows meant so much to me. Anytime I felt down, I would turn to his spectacular work and watch every recording of the greatness that was his runway shows. I would go online and try to find as much as I possibly could about him and his fashion shows. His pieces turned every model into literal goddesses. Their chiseled figures, elegant posing, stunning makeup, and hair left a mark on me. With every show, Thierry Mugler created a jaw-dropping fantasy world that left you craving for more. He was a visionary, a talent that inspired many. There will never be someone as great as Mugler. He truly was one of a kind. I’m very lucky to have a few of his archive pieces and from now on I’ll cherish them even more. Rest in power, legend.

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MUGLER REAL LIFE

FALL 1995 COUTURE

SPRING 1997 COUTURE

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SECOND LIFE PHOTOGRAPHERS

PHOTOGRAPHER VENUS

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MUGLER REAL LIFE

1992 COUTURE

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PHOTOGRAPHER VENUS

PHOTOGRAPHER ARMAND PARKS

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FALL 1995 COUTURE

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PHOTOGRAPHER VENUS

PHOTOGRAPHER VENUS, SHOWCASING MAYA REYES

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MUGLER REAL LIFE

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SPRING 1997 COUTURE

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PHOTOGRAPHER VENUS

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2013 MUGLER FOLLIES

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PHOTOGRAPHER ARMAND PARKS

PHOTOGRAPHER VENUS

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PLAYBOY ANNIVERSARY 1993 COUTURE

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PHOTOGRAPHER VENUS

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WINTER 1997 COUTURE

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PHOTOGRAPHER VENUS

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FALL 1995 COUTURE

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PHOTOGRAPHER VENUS

PHOTOGRAPHER MAYA REYES

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RESORT 2020

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PHOTOGRAPHER VENUS, SHOWCASING MAYA REYES

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MUGLER WORN BY MAYA REYES

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BEYONCÉ IN MUGLER, 2009

SPRING 2020 READY-TO-WEAR

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SECOND LIFE CREATORS

CREATOR DAVID HEATHER

CREATOR MOGUL

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SPRING 1998 COUTURE

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SECOND LIFE CREATORS

CREATOR SECRET DESERT

CREATOR MALENA VON DASH / MVD

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THE ANDROGYNY ISSUE