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ANDRISEN MORTON Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2013

FALL FASHION

CATCH CABIN FEVER DESIGNERS GET PERSONAL THERE’S AN APP FOR THAT: GOLF GOES DIGITAL JOURNEY TO AFRICA

Andrisen Morton 270 St. Paul Street Denver, Colorado 80206 303-377-8488 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti

FEATURES 4 6

8 10 14 48 58

Welcome Letter Some Funny Things Happened On the Way to 35 Years What’s in a Name (Or Two)? People: John Jaster A Conversation with Kevin Mitchell Tech: In Full Swing Fitness: Hit the Mat

FASHION 18 20 22 28 30 34 40

Profile: PT01 Style: On the Rise Designers: Talking to the Talent Profile: Doriani 1 Suit. 7 Ways. Log House of Style The Fall Guy

DEPARTMENTS 12 16 44 52 56

As I See It… Ask Craig & Lindsay Man of Style: All About Al Travel: African Adventure Food: America’s French Farm Boy 60 Spirits: Hi-Tech Drinking 62 At Your Service 64 End Page: Restaurant Rules

CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

John Frascone

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2013. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN

FALL/WINTER 2013 PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 16, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

Our fathers have told us

welcome

Thirty-five Years

AND MOVING FORWARD Thirty-five years ago this August, we founded Andrisen Morton. Then in 1999, we consolidated our downtown and DTC stores to move to our beautiful 10,000 square-foot store here in Cherry Creek North. Time really does fly when you’re having fun. And thanks to you, our customers, fun is exactly what it has been. Whether you’ve been shopping with us from the very beginning or just since the beginning of this past year, the pleasure is all ours. Your trust and friendship means the world to us. Finally, to our employees: you are our friends and our extended family. Without your hard work and love of the business, Andrisen Morton would be nothing. Thank you all from the bottom of our hearts. Here’s to many more years of fun! Warmest regards,

Dave & Craig

SOME FUNNY THINGS HAPPENED ON THE WAY TO 35 YEARS. Craig and Dave have shared a lot of laughs and memorable moments over the years as friends, co-workers and business partners. Here are a few of their most unforgettable customer stories.

As Craig recalls: “A man rushes into the downtown store and it’s pouring outside. He picks out a raincoat and umbrella and wants to write a check. Dave asks him for some ID, but all he has is a Denver library card! We don’t know him and we say no. Then he inexplicably pulls out cash, pays for the merchandise and in a very weird way, demands that Dave give him a ride home. Dave gets sort of ticked-off and tells him to take a hike. That night, I see a story on the news about a guy arrested for a

shooting and it’s the same guy! As he’s being led away in handcuffs, I notice he’s using our raincoat to cover his face from the camera. I phone Dave and say, ‘Man, good thing you didn’t give that nut a ride home.’” One of Dave’s favorite stories comes from the first year Andrisen Morton was open: “A customer wants to buy a couple of nice suits, which in 1979 are about $300 apiece; he asks if he can charge them. We’re desperate for sales, and I say sure! He works for some downtown firm and I figure he’s good for it. So we tailor the suits on the spot, he leaves… and we never see or hear

from him again. Lesson learned, right? Now fast-forward 20 years to our Cherry Creek store. The same guy walks in and asks for me—I have no idea who he is. He hands me a check for 600 bucks and says, ‘Thanks for letting me charge those suits 20 years ago. I didn’t really have the money then, but I never forgot how you trusted me.’ I was floored. Isn’t that something?” Then almost simultaneously, they both mentioned a story that Dave took great pleasure in re-telling: “One of the first two or three customers to ever come into the store was a gentleman named John Bitzer, who’s still a customer and great friend of ours. John had purchased a suit from us, but after wearing it, he thought the trousers were a little too long. So he stopped by and asked if we could shorten them. I wrote it up, tagged the pants and took them upstairs to the tailor shop. The next day, John came in to pick up the pants, looked at them and said ‘Holy crap, what happened to my pants? They’re golf shorts!’ Apparently, I wrote the ticket incorrectly, so instead of shortening the trousers

one-half inch, the tailor turned Mr. Bitzer’s suit pants into a perfectly hemmed and pressed pair of shorts! We were just mortified, apologized profusely, and of course gave him another suit. John still laughs about it with us to this day. In fact, John’s son is now a customer too.” Dave was just 26 and Craig was 28 when they began their business, and they were just starting their families. So to save money on downtown parking, they commuted to work together. Dave would pick Craig up every morning in his blue-on-blue 1973 Super Beetle with an AM radio. When they opened, the staff included Craig, Dave, a part-time salesman, a bookkeeper and one tailor. Not long after, the guys hired Tom Marsico part-time, who was just starting out in the financial business and also worked part-time at Boettcher & Company. Tom moved to New York about a year later. The rest is history. Today, Andrisen Morton employs 20 people, including six tailors.

Perhaps the biggest influence on their long-term careers as clothiers was Judy Bell, who ran the Broadmoor Shops at the resort in Colorado Springs. “She was a visionary marketing person,” says Craig, “who taught us so much about what retail is today. Judy was so far ahead of her time. She was the one who told us you have to attract customers to come through the door by making it a fun place to be, by having events and being in front of your customers all the time. She had a phenomenal marketing mind.” As Craig and Dave reminisced about the past 35 years, it’s very apparent what a great team they are and how much fun they have together. But many of the stories that flew around the room that day were not suitable for reprint in this magazine!

ephemera What’s in a name (or two)? BACK IN THE DAY, EVEN THOUGH WE WERE A SMALL RETAILER, MUCH OF THE CLOTHING WE CARRIED WAS UNDER OUR OWN PRIVATE LABEL. We were proud to put our name on such high-quality apparel and know our customers were equally proud to wear it. And while the look of the label — which ultimately was our logo — changed over the years, our commitment to high-quality and high-touch personal service remained constant. Also pictured is the store’s first branded garment bag.

The All New F-Type is here, and itâ€™s spectacular.

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people

You can go home again. JOHN JASTER PROVES IT!

John Jaster was born and raised in Denver, and in fact, still lives in the neighborhood where he grew up. With eight brothers to emulate and certainly to contend with, John learned at an early age that he had to work hard to be successful in life. John was a cook at Mercy Hospital and a DU student when he interviewed with Dave Morton over 30 years ago. He wore what he thought was a very stylish black and white houndstooth suit. Despite his apparent lack of fashion sense, Dave and Craig saw something special in John that day, and they hired him on one condition: that he immediately discard that garish suit! After working at Andrisen Morton from 1979–89, John was lured away by Saks Fifth Avenue at Cherry Creek Shopping Center, where he became director of their entire menswear department. But when Andrisen Morton opened in Cherry Creek North in 1999, John came back home to the store as managing director, overseeing activities on the sales floor among many other responsibilities.

“John is uniquely consistent in who he is, the service he provides to his large cadre of customers, and the way he always has our backs. Words can’t adequately express our gratitude to him for everything he does,” gushes Dave.

CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: Clint Eastwood (John does a great impression, too.) HOBBY: Fly-fishing, camping or picnicking with his family FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: Any beach with his family KNOWN FOR MAKING: Green chili, from an old railroad cook’s recipe WHY ANDRISEN MORTON IS SPECIAL: “The latitude we have to take such good care of our clients is empowering, and it’s not found in other stores.” 10

as I see it...

THIS PAST AUGUST, ANDRISEN MORTON CELEBRATED 35 YEARS IN BUSINESS. DAVE MORTON CONTEMPLATES HOW THAT HAPPENED.

I think there are many reasons Andrisen Morton has enjoyed such longevity.

A STRONG IDENTITY. When we opened, there were many somewhat high-end clothing stores around. Craig felt if every other store sold nice ties for $15 (remember, this was 1978), then we would sell the very best $25 tie. We created a strong identity of carrying better, higherquality products than anyone else.

PASSION. We’re passionate about the business; we love the people and the product. Great merchants are typically all about product. What sets us apart is that when we get up in the morning, we think about people — how we can attract new customers and help current customers — and also that we better have great product. Here, people are #1 and product is #1A.

INTEGRITY IN SELLING. Anybody can sell to somebody once; we try to build relationships for a lifetime. We tell the truth, honor commitments, and expect our customers to become friends.

OUR WORD IS OUR WARRANTY. Customers don’t have to read our return or warranty policies, because we’ve never written any! Our policy is simple: if a customer is unhappy with the clothing they’ve purchased, for whatever reason, they can return it, exchange it, whatever makes them happy. No questions asked. They have our word on it.

EMBRACE EMPLOYEES. We care for our employees like they’re family members. They all do a great job and we’re sure we tell them. We keep expectations high and reward excellence.

CARE WHAT CUSTOMERS THINK. A recent customer survey found that over 70 percent rated their satisfaction with us at “very high” or higher. Of that group, nearly 100 percent said “service” was the primary reason they shopped here. Our high service platform sets us apart from other places men can buy high-quality clothing, whether it’s other shops, department stores or online. Men appreciate high-touch service.

RECOGNIZE OUR CUSTOMERS ARE VALUE-ORIENTED. As expensive as much of our merchandise is, we understand that our customers are not the type to buy a suit, wear it for one season, toss it, and buy next year’s new suit. They want highquality, classic clothing they’ll look great in now and for years to come.

STAY CURRENT AND KEEP IT FRESH. Men’s fashion changes season-to-season, year-to-year. Our customers want to look good. We stay up-to-date with what’s trending, because we’d do them a disservice if we sold the same old thing season after season. From our point of view, our merchandise is current without being extreme fashion. As looks change, Craig and Lindsay do a great job of bringing that current look to our clientele.

THE POWER OF NEW. The power of “new” drives businesses to succeed long-term. It’s not the status quo.

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE TEAM:

a conversation with Kevin Mitchell

The offices of Denver private equity firm Lariat Partners (formerly RedCloud Capital) are what one might expect — sleek contemporary space, modern art and so on. What’s unexpected is that founder Kevin Mitchell isn’t in the big corner office with killer views of the city and mountains, but in a small center-hall office like everyone else. Kevin chose to make the corner space into a common area where the whole team can brainstorm, collaborate or relax. This speaks volumes about his approach to business — and life. Kevin grew up on the outskirts of Napa, California and soccer was his passion from a very young age. Like his hero Diego Maradona, he was a talented midfielder known for his ball handling and scoring skills. He was a member of the California “State” soccer team as well as elite club teams, and dreamed of turning pro. He attended University of California at Berkeley on a soccer

scholarship, but after two years hung up his cleats and focused on his education. He received an Economics degree from Berkeley in 1990. Kevin worked a few years in Washington D.C., where he met his wife, Nancy. They moved to Ann Arbor, and in 1995, he earned an MBA in Finance from the University of Michigan. The couple relocated to Denver shortly thereafter. Today, they live in Lafayette with their 14-year-old daughter and three sons, ages 12, 10 and 8. Kevin loves golf, as does the whole family. He is also an avid runner and occasional fly-fisherman. Kevin met Dave when the Cherry Creek store opened in ’99 and they’ve been friends ever since. From the first time he walked into the store, he was impressed with the high-quality merchandise and the amazing personal service from the whole team. “But Dave is amazing,” Kevin says. “He knows what I will and won’t like, yet has a knack for getting me to try new things that end up becoming my favorite. For instance, my suede Gravati loafers — I would have never bought ‘em on my own, but Dave said, ‘Trust me, you’re going to love these.’ And he was right!”

His best Andrisen Morton story involves Craig, when Kevin came in on a busy Saturday with his three little boys in tow. “I was stressed. It’s a nice store and I had to leave my three mischievous little boys unattended while I worked with Dave. So I gave them a stern talk about being good and sat them on a couch in the Zegna store. Craig noticed I was stressed and took over. He told stories, played with them and kept them out of trouble. He made it easy for me to do what I had to do. That’s why I love them! Those guys take care of you in any way they can; in this case, Craig was a babysitter for an hour. And my kids still talk about him.” In 2004, Kevin Mitchell co-founded RedCloud Capital, a private equity investment firm that invests in lower-middle market companies primarily in agribusiness and energy services. The company is being re-branded today as Lariat Partners. He serves on the advisory board of ACE Scholarships, a Denver non-profit focused on low-income scholarships and school choice programs. The firm is also involved in the Mile High 5 Foundation, which on Friday, September 27, 2013 will present Mile High MMAyhem, a black-tie fundraising dinner and party featuring a full card of boxing/MMA matches.

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ask craig & lindsay When it comes to men’s style, there are no bad questions—only bad results if you don’t know the right answers.

Q: HOW DO YOU MIX PATTERNS AND SOLIDS? A: There’s a trend to wearing pattern on pattern, but the trick is not to overdo it. If you wear a patterned sportcoat with a patterned shirt, then top it off with a solid tie. Always think understated. In fact, solid silk and knit ties are actually becoming their own trend.

Q: WHAT’S WITH CHUNKY, HEAVY-WEAVE SWEATERS? A: Unique chunky sweaters with cable or micro-weave patterns are now being worn as outerwear: a very new, very hip trend. Try it and you’ll stand out.

Q: I HAVE A FEW DRESS SHIRTS WITH FRENCH CUFFS. THERE ARE TWO CUFFLINK HOLES ON THE INSIDE PART OF EACH CUFF, BUT ONLY ONE ON THE OUTSIDE PART. HOW COME? A: The two holes are there to help you adjust the tightness of the sleeve, although not all makers include this option. French cuffs and cufflinks certainly add a touch of class and uniqueness, so kudos! Bowties, pocket squares and tie clips can also add personality to any executive look.

Q: I’M NOT DIGGING THE WAY MY BOXERS BUNCH UP WHEN I WEAR THOSE NEW SLIM-FIT PANTS. WHAT TYPE OF UNDERWEAR WORKS BETTER? A: Boxer briefs are the way to go. They offer the trim fit of a brief combined with the comfort of a boxer short. And they won’t bunch up!

Q: IT SEEMS MY DARKER, HARDER-FINISH WOOL SUITS LOOK A LITTLE SHINY AFTER DRY CLEANING. SOMEONE TOLD ME TO GO OVER THE FABRIC WITH FINE SANDPAPER TO REMOVE THE SHINE, BUT THAT SCARES ME. A: We’re guessing you’re dry cleaning your suits far too often. So skip the sandpaper (really?) and cut back on the dry cleaning. If a suit gets soiled, spot cleaning immediately after you take it off is best; dry clean as infrequently as possible. And whoever gave you that advice should stick to carpentry.

ATTENTION TO DETAIL is what has turned Eton into one of the world’s finest shirt makers. Founded in 1928 by husband and wife Annie and David Pettersson, Eton’s dedicated belief in quality and craftsmanship has helped spread their story from the small village in Gånghester in the west of Sweden to some of the world’s most exclusive stores. Today, Eton is still run by the Pettersson family and remains loyal to its heritage as a specialist shirt maker.

celebrating 85 years of fine shirt making 1928–2013

profile

SMARTPANTS

thing new. “It’s true that there were a lot of brands making pants,” he explains, “but most had a more traditional, larger-cut leg. It was time for a better silhouette: not tight, but a little more proportionate on the leg.” And luckily, specialty retailers like us agreed. PT01 currently offers 15 models (Editor, High-Tech, LaRochelle, etc.) in 8 different fits (Regular, Slim, Skinny, etc.) which can be made in any of the brand’s 400 colors and fabrics (including denims, luxury cottons and Italian wools from Loro Piana). There’s a strong focus on functionality, quality construction, and of course, fit. Look for new fabrics and details each season, and try a pair on to see for yourself how PT01’s use of stretch fabrics make them some of the most comfortable pants around. Edoardo Fassino, whose family still privately owns and operates the company, serves as CEO and creative director. He manages a design team of nine, and is known to come into the office and start the day by saying, “I had a dream last night, and now I know what we

PT01 just might make the world’s most perfect pair. By Jillian LaRochelle T, which stands simply for Pantaloni Torino, knows a thing or two about pants: its parent company, Cover 50, has been making them in Italy for more than 60 years. They started out producing all kinds of bottoms under an array of brand names, but in 2007, it was finally time to streamline. The company decided to refocus their energies on one luxury line, for which they would use only the finest fabrics and develop the best fits. In short, they set out to make the perfect pant. Though PT01 was a quick success in its home country of Italy, potential retail partners in the U.S. were initially skeptical. They told Mario Maran, general manager in charge of operations, marketing and strategic development, that another line of pants was the last thing they needed. But he was adamant: “This is not just another line of pants; these are the pants!” He believed that American men were ready for some-

need to do…” The team remains on the forefront, continuing to improve and change. What never changes is their dedication to “giving the pants big personality!” exclaims Maran. “In fact, all of our models have names so they are more interesting to talk about than ‘the gray pants’ or ‘the beige pants.’ Let’s face it: our target customers don’t need pants, so our challenge was to make the people want our pants.” And the challenge seems to have been met: PT01 is now available in the best shops across the U.S. and in 36 other countries. In the five years following its rebranding, the company’s profits increased five-fold. But it really sunk in for Maran at a trunk show earlier this year, where he recalls selling 15 pairs to one happy customer. “That was very telling: here was a 56year-old normal, healthy man. He tried a pair on, looked in the mirror and immediately asked how many pairs we had in his size. I told him we had 15, and he bought every last one. He said they made him feel years younger. “And I knew then that we had achieved our goal.”

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style

ON THE RISE

Clockwise from top: Kerry Rhodes, Tahj Mowry, Adam Huss

Three up-and-coming stars talk clothes and cars. By Kelli Freeman way. I love boots, especially a pair of low-top distressed boots my father calls Oliver Twist style. Kerry Rhodes: My style depends on my mood. Generally I’m a clean-cut, tailored kind of guy. It feels great when something fits you well, straight and narrow. I wear custom-made suits to my games.

How would you describe your personal style?

You’re all really into cars. Tell us about your favorites.

Adam Huss: I’m not a big shopper, but I love clothing. My style icons are Johnny Depp and Ryan Gosling, and I’d say my taste is a mix of hip-hop, funk and grunge. I prefer a layered look, dressier denim, and old-school leather with a soft hand. Tahj Mowry: Number one: Don’t copy someone else’s style. Number two: Be comfortable and confident in what you wear and you’ll carry yourself that

Huss: I like a simple car that I can rely on, like my new Volkswagen Jetta. But there’s nothing like an old classic. A red Mercedes 560 SL: now that’s a ride you can go road-tripping in! Mowry: I have a white Audi S5 (which is faster than the A5). I love the blood-red leather seats and carbon fiber interior accents. This car gets me in trouble because it’s so fast and it distracts other drivers.

HUSS IMAGE BY MEAGEN MINNAUGH, HAIR BY CARLOS RODRIQUEZ

he scent of a brand new ride, a leather jacket or a good cigar can conjure up a feeling of success and satisfaction. Listen in as Forum chats with three talented men about to make it big. They’re all on different paths, but share a passion for fashion and the need for speed.

My next car may be a Mercedes-Benz G-Class, but I’m still an Audi guy! Rhodes: Cars are your babies! My favorite vehicle is my Range Rover, the first purchase I made once I got into the league. I get a new one every year. My second car is the first four-door Aston Martin Rapide in metallic gray, and one of the sexiest cars I’ve ever seen. I love it. My third car is a matte black BMW M3.

It sounds like you guys appreciate the finer things in life. What do you do to give back? Huss: I support any charity working to find a cure for cancer, especially leukemia. Mowry: I support The Thirst Project, which builds wells and provides clean drinking water to villages in Africa. Rhodes: I wanted to give back to the community and the people who helped me along the way, so I created The Rhodes Foundation to support educational and financial advancement for kids in underserved high schools.

What’s something people would be surprised to learn about you? Huss: I am a nerd! I love comic books and super heroes (and want to be one). Mowry: That I’m a super reality TV fan! I love The Bachelor and The Bachelorette franchise and The Colony on the Discovery Channel. Rhodes: I’m actually a better basketball player than a football player.

TRENDS THEY’RE INTO

FALL ’13 SHOPPING LIST

• boots • color • layering • slim-fit sport shirts • taking risks

• cashmere hoodie • fitted leather jacket • perfectly tailored suit • sharp dress shoes • sleek high-tops

Actor Adam Huss has appeared in NCIS: Los Angeles, CSI: NY and films like Resurrection County and Is It Just Me? Next, Huss stars in the feature film Find Me, which he also associate produced. He caught the acting bug at a young age: “I come from a big family. When we’d get together, I’d write a script, bring my cousins in and we’d act it out.” His passion is to tell compelling stories that invoke deep thought and feelings from the audience. NFL safety Kerry Rhodes was first drafted by the New York Jets in 2005. He was traded to the Arizona Cardinals in 2010, and will wrap up his NFL career this season. Rhodes’ philosophy about life and ‘The Game’ are one and the same: “Be smarter than your opponent. Be prepared for anything and you’ll be successful. Do the hard work, study.” With his new production company, The Come Back Kids, Rhodes hopes to transition from sports to the silver screen. “I just completed my first documentary about athletes and their inability to handle stardom or manage their money. I minored in theater, so I can see myself behind the scenes.” Tahj Mowry grew up guest starring on Full House, Friends, Sister, Sister and Who’s the Boss? before landing his own Disney sitcom, Smart Guy. He’s been a working actor since the age of four and is just coming off his second season of filming the ABC Family sitcom Baby Daddy. How does someone who’s worked through his childhood find work/life balance? “Acting is a job. I love it, but it’s not all of who I am. You have to separate it from yourself and live your life without letting your career consume you.”

designers

TALKING TO THE TALENT

Get to know your favorite designers. By Jillian LaRochelle

WHAT DO YOU NOTICE MEN DOING WRONG IN THE WAY THEY DRESS?

Eton’s Sebastian Dollinger: Some guys tend to buy the wrong size. In the U.S., the most common mistake seems to be that people buy things way too big. In Scandinavia, on the other hand, it’s generally a case of things being too tight. Gianluca Isaia: They take themselves too seriously. You must feel confident in your clothing without trying too hard to impress anyone else. Robert Graham’s Robert Stock: They don’t know how to put a jacket on properly. You have to put it on and straighten it out. It’s always hanging crooked on the shoulders or not laying flat across the chest. John Varvatos: They think too hard about the uniform and not creating their own personal style.

WHICH NEW ITEMS SHOULD A MAN PURCHASE TO UPDATE HIS WARDROBE THIS SEASON?

Brunello Cucinelli: Men don’t take enough time in the morning to get ready. When men prepare for the day, they should ask themselves what they’re feeling that day, with whom they’re meeting, what they’re planning to do. Men should pay more attention to the clothes they put on each day. The extra 20 minutes will speak volumes about the person they want to be that day.

Brunello Cucinelli BC: This fall, every man should own the Milano jacket, an ultra-light nylon style that he

ROBERT GRAHAM SWEATER, JOHN VARVATOS BOOTS

Sebastian Dollinger

can easily layer underneath his sportcoat, or over it, depending on the look and the occasion. SD: Invest in a good pair of shoes for rougher weather and a new crisp white shirt. GI: One of my favorites this season is the Cortina double-faced wool overcoat. It mixes classic sartorial details with contemporary elements. Also, the printed Donegal jacket has a very unique look. The fabric uses the latest in printing technology, and it comes with our signature sunglass pocket, measured to the exact dimensions of the original military-issued aviator. RS: Don’t underestimate the importance of socks; add a few fun pairs to your wardrobe. Sweaters are also making a comeback. JV: A suede jacket and a great pair of boots.

WHAT’S YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE?

WHAT’S YOUR GO-TO OUTFIT FOR A FESTIVE HOLIDAY GATHERING? Gianluca Isaia BC: I have five fixes, which I suppose you could call guilty pleasures: cashmere, cognac, chocolate, cigars and Champagne. SD: I buy shoes and coats that cost more than small cars… GI: Cannot tell you...my secret vice is a secret! RS: I’m addicted to the New York Rangers. I’m amazed by how hard the puck is and that it zooms toward them at 120 miles an hour. JV: Collecting vinyl, especially vintage vinyl records.

WHAT WOULD YOU BE DOING IF YOU WEREN’T A DESIGNER? BC: I love my work and I have always desired to do this. SD: I want to run my own hotel one day. The ideal location would be in a forest by a lake. GI: I would love to be a small luxury hotel keeper. RS: I would probably be a psychiatrist. I feel like I’m always giving my employees therapy anyway! Or I would have loved to be a drummer. JV: I love architecture, and of course my real passion

ETON SHIRT

BC: I love wearing our gray cashmere 1.5-breasted tuxedo for a special event. This has become my signature and I love the way it makes me feel: formal enough for a holiday gathering, but it’s comfortable enough to wear every day. SD: My brown leather boots, washed out jeans, and one of our denim shirts. That’s it. GI: Isaia denim with a tuxedo jacket. RS: A few years ago we made a jacket called the Maharaja, embroidered with 25,000 miles of silk thread. Worn with jeans and velvet slippers, it’s perfect for a party. JV: A timeless black tux jacket with a white formal shirt, a scarf and jeans.

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would have been to be a musician.

WHAT WOULD IT SURPRISE PEOPLE TO LEARN ABOUT YOU?

one place I cannot resist for a getaway. SD: Esalen in Big Sur, CA. GI: Capri. RS: I love the Caribbean Islands, I love Italy, I always have a great time in Asia… Since I can recharge in only a day or two, I love spending a few days in a lot of different places all over the world. JV: The island of Mustique.

WHAT’S A QUOTE YOU LIVE BY?

John Varvatos SD: I studied particle physics. GI: Maybe that I like to read mindfulness books, or that in the summer, I wear sandals, handmade in Capri, to make my suits a little less dramatic. RS: I’m hardworking but I really need my downtime. When I was younger I was into all kinds of Zen meditation, so I’m extremely capable of just unplugging and ignoring everything. JV: I’m pretty laid back and a bit shy.

WHERE DO YOU GO TO ESCAPE?

BC: I’m inspired by the fascinating St. Benedict, who advised the abbot responsible for his monks to be both rigorous and gentle, a demanding master and a kind father. SD: Live now! GI: It is not possible to buy great style. Every man must create his own. RS: I’d just like people to say about me, “He was a good guy.” JV: It’s only rock ’n roll, but I love it!

BC: I like very much to stay at home with my family and my wife, but if I have to plan a trip, I love going to the mountains, especially to the Dolomites in the north of Italy. There you can find beautiful landscapes and nature lives all around you. In the summer, I love Isola di Cavallo, a small island between Corsica and Sardinia. I stay at the Hôtel and Spa Des Pêcheurs. This is

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profile

How would you define Milanese style, and will American men relate to it? Top U.S. retailers first came to our shop in Milan to discover that Milanese ‘edge,’ which I describe as a combination of top-quality production and unexpected design details. Milanese style is understated. Men who buy expensive clothing understand the investment value and that quality always, always trumps quantity. Of course American men will relate to this, particularly the special pieces that become favorites in a man’s wardrobe. How have you grown your business internationally? Bottom line, we don’t sell clothes: we sell a culture, a history that spans over millennia. Once people experience Italy, especially Milano, in all its facets, they come to understand the aesthetics of so-called Milanese design. Our customers care about quality, luxury and history; they are not about impulse buying.

DISCREETLY DORIANI

A top Italian menswear brand arrives in the States, epitomizing the subtle sophistication of Milanese style. By Karen Alberg Grossman s anyone who has been there will tell you, Milanese men have a style all their own. Without much fanfare or flash, they command attention in even the simplest clothing. It’s about the luxurious fabrics, the close-to-body fit, the attention to detail (and unexpected details). It’s a look that emanates elegance and class, that appears unstudied but is in fact extremely precise in its nonchalance. Here, we speak with Doriani’s Gisberto Sassi about his third-generation clothing business (with stores in Italy’s most beautiful resorts from Portofino to Capri), and about what constitutes Milanese style.

How will that translate in the States? Ultimately I’d like to duplicate the formula we showcase in our Italian stores, where we sell, in small doses, everything (from suits to shoes) a man needs for his wardrobe. But this is a long-term goal. The U.S. market has always rewarded product innovators, so our focus for the next three to five years is to produce innovative items, especially cashmere knitwear. How would you describe your management style? I am a dreamer, but I dream in slow motion, with my feet always on the ground.

“MEN WHO BUY EXPENSIVE CLOTHING UNDERSTAND THE INVESTMENT VALUE AND THAT QUALITY ALWAYS, ALWAYS TRUMPS QUANTITY.” — GISBERTO SASSI, DORIANI 28

Maximize your investment in a classic cashmere suit with simple sartorial updates for any occasion.

1 SUIT. 7 WAYS. EXPLORE YOUR OPTIONS. Photography Jens Ingvarsson Styling William Buckley Grooming Katie Robinson

SPORTY STYLE

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HOUSE

OFSTYLE

HAIR & MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY

STYLING: WENDY MCNETT

MODEL: PETER ARGUE @ WILHEMINA. SPECIAL THANKS: WILLIAM BUCKLEY, MICHAEL & DONNA FRIEDMAN.

YOUR GUIDE T O MODERN OUTERWEAR

Photography Jens Ingvarsson Styling William Buckley Grooming Katie Robinson

Donâ€™t be afraid to mix textures, colors and patterns.

THE FALL GUY Outerwear classics get a modern update with new treatments and details.

A pocket square adds pop.

The lined lightweight material takes you through changing seasons.

Casual Luxury WITH FITTED SILHOUETTES AND LUXE DETAILS, THESE PIECES PULL DOUBLE DUTY FOR WORK AND WEEKEND.

Distressed fabrics look great with jeans. Wide lapels define shoulders. Donegal fabric is dressy but cool.

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MODELS: JONATHAN RILEY, MITCH FERRIN, CEDRIC @ FORD; LEANDRO SOUZA @ Q MODEL MANAGEMENT. TAILOR: JASON SANTIAGO.

Keep the length short for a modern take on casual.

Vests

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man of style

ALL ABOUT AL

But fortunately, when we had Superstorm Sandy and the Oklahoma tornado and those types of severe events, we were pretty much right on target. As our computer modeling improves, so does our accuracy.

How important are clothes in your life? What are your personal style preferences? I’d describe my style as fairly traditional: I don’t take major fashion risks; in fact, the biggest decision I had to make this season was cuffs or no cuffs on my pants. (I opted for no cuffs…) But what most distinguishes my style, I suppose, is that I’m not afraid to wear bold colors. I think it’s fun! For television, I like a tailored look. I used to be a basic blue blazer kind of guy, but as I’ve gotten older, I’ve evolved to more sophisticated Italian clothing. Zegna, Brioni and Kiton are among my favorite suit brands; sometimes I buy custom, sometimes off the rack. For weekends, I like The biggest decision to wear jeans or khakis I had to make this season with either a polo shirt or a classic woven shirt. was cuffs or no cuffs

on my pants.

Here’s what’s happening in Al Roker’s neck of the woods… By Karen Alberg Grossman What makes a great weatherman: accuracy or personality? Obviously it’s a combination of both, but accuracy is more critical than ever these days. With so many extreme weather events recently, getting it wrong can be life threatening. Of course, today’s improved technology enables more accurate forecasting. As for the personality part, whatever flavor you want, you can find it. Prefer a simple straightforward forecast, just the facts? You can find it! You want personality and showmanship, you can find that too. With so many TV channels, there’s a weatherman for every preference.

Is it fair to ask your accuracy percentage? It’s not a good question since I’m now forecasting over such a broad area. When I did local news in Cleveland or D.C. or Syracuse, it was easier because it was a clearly defined geography; now it’s the entire country.

(Lately, I’ve been buying checks.) I like easy comfortable sportswear and here, I’m less concerned about designer names.

Who are your fashion role models? Well Matt Lauer has definitely influenced my style since he always looks so perfect (probably because he worked at an upscale menswear store as a teenager…). If I had to pick a celebrity fashion role model, I’d say Daniel Craig and George Clooney. (But how likely am I to ever look like them?) Actually, a 75-year-old guy who I don’t even know became a fashion role model for me. I had spotted him at a fundraiser in Washington, D.C. wearing a fabulous black watch tartan dinner jacket; I asked him where he got it and he told me he bought it 40 years ago at the flagship Brooks Brothers store on Madison Avenue. So I went looking for that fabric and had a similar one made up for me by Zegna. I wore it to a red carpet

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assignment and got lots of compliments!

Do you have a good luck tie? Not really. But I’ve been wearing a lot of Brioni ties lately: I like the heft. Also Zegna and Drake’s…

What about the slimmer-fit clothing they’re showing these days: are you wearing it? Not so much. For me, it will take some getting used to. Once you’ve been overweight, you don’t want to be reminded of when everything was too tight…

meet this incredibly brave woman whose courage changed the course of history, for not just African Americans but for all Americans. And Charles Schultz because I too am an avid cartoonist and comic book fan; I’ve always been in awe of his talents. (I still sketch a bit but I’m not really pursuing it these days.) Who I’d most like to interview? Probably Obama. I’d ask him about his views on climate change.

Other passions? I love cooking and reading. My most recent culinary accomplishment was grilled Chilean sea bass with roasted Brussels spouts and quinoa. My most recent great read was Thomas Jefferson: The Art of Power by Jon Meacham.

Speaking of which, tell us about your new book. It came out in January; it’s called Never Goin’ Back: Winning the Weight-loss Battle for Good. It’s simply the story of my personal journey with weight loss. I think there’s a lot of good stuff that might help people along their own journeys, but it’s definitely not a “how-to” book…

What are you most proud of? Hanging in there: I’ve been working for the same company (NBC) for 30-plus years. And of course my three children: my 26year-old Courtney is a chef in New York City; Leila (14) is studying performing arts; my son Nicky (10) is a master in Tae Kwon Do. I would have thought you’d be most proud of your unique ability to connect with people... I don’t know that it’s such a special talent: I simply treat people the way I’d want to be treated. It’s how my parents raised us, and it’s the lesson I’d most like to teach my children. And while we joke around a lot on the Today show, it’s especially important that we’re never laughing at somebody, only with them.

“If it’s someone you love who’s overweight, the best thing you can do is shut up.”

What advice would you give to someone wanting to lose weight who has not yet begun the journey? I don’t believe in giving advice on weight loss since it’s got to come from within. For me, it literally took seeing my dad on his death bed and promising him I’d change my life… Everyone gets to that point eventually, but no amount of lecturing will do it. Look at Governor Christie — he has young kids and a young wife and after all these years he finally made the decision to take control of his future… No one could have persuaded him. So that’s the advice I’d give people: do it for yourself, not for anyone else. If it’s someone you love who’s overweight, the best thing you can do is shut up. Because guess what: we know we’re fat! We don’t live in a world without mirrors…

Who was your best interview ever and who would you like to interview next? My two favorites so far were Rosa Parks and Charles Schultz: Rosa because it was just such an honor to

Who is your personal hero? Probably New York’s Cardinal Dolan. I was raised Catholic (my mom was a devout Catholic, I lean toward Catholic Lite) but with Dolan, it’s less about his religion and more about his humility, his humanity, how readily he can talk about his own failings (e.g. losing weight!). I’ve never officially interviewed him but we spent time together in Rome for the installation of the new Pope, and we’ve had dinner a number of times. He’s a straight shooter and a pretty tolerant fellow; I truly admire him.

tech

“When people see themselves for the first time on video, they generally think about quitting golf,” laughs Chuck Quinton, founder of RotarySwing.com, an online instruction site. “But you can’t make a change without realizing exactly what you’re doing wrong. That may seem incredibly obvious, but you’d be surprised how many people don’t know what their swing looks like.” Golf analysis took a huge leap forward in the mid-’90s, Quinton says, when cameras capable of capturing high-speed athletics became smaller and more affordable than the TV-sized cameras previously required. Improved camera technology, combined with analysis software that previously cost thousands of dollars but which is available today from a $5 app, means instructors can now measure just about everything and qualify cause and

IN FULL SWING

Virtual data can help improve your physical game. By Christian Chensvold t a press conference following this year’s Masters Tournament, Tiger Woods was asked what he thought of 14-year-old golf phenom Tianling Guan. He credited golf apps that use high-speed video analysis for the success of today’s prodigies, who’ve grown up with laptops and smart phones as integral pieces of golf equipment. They’re accustomed to filming themselves, and more important, they’ve learned to analyze what they see. Whether it’s Konica Minolta’s SwingVision camera, which can break down Tiger’s swing into 18,000frames-per-second slow motion on your TV screen, or a grainy cell phone clip of a high handicapper struggling to improve, technology has brought unprecedented insight into the mechanics of the golf swing. But how many golfers are brave enough to uncover the naked truth of their faulty swings?

Technology has brought unprecedented insight into the mechanics of the golf swing.

effect in a student’s faulty swing. The most important thing video analysis reveals, says Quinton, is a golfer’s impact position: golf’s so-called moment of truth. The number of faults that can lead to a poor impact position are myriad, and are all revealed under the ‘CAT-scan’ of golf analysis software. For a membership fee, RotarySwing.com lets golfers upload biweekly video clips for analysis by instructors, who write up what they’re seeing and suggest drills and changes. The workload, Quinton says, is bordering on overwhelming. His staff of 25 certified instructors shares the duties, with one full-timer devoted entirely to swing reviews. Most of RotarySwing.com’s students use the golf app by V1, which founder Chris Hart says is an indispensable tool in a golfer’s perennial struggle to keep his sanity. V1 costs a mere $4.99 and uses a smart

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phone’s camera to record golf swings, which can then be analyzed with software that measures body angles and compares clips of good and bad shots side by side, all of which users can store in a virtual ‘locker room.’ Clips can also be uploaded directly to coaches for professional analysis (cost varies). The company is currently working on score tracking and shot analysis features that will allow golfers to hit a bucket at the range and get a full set of data on where their shots went, a far more reliable means of ball flight tendencies than short-term memory. This will be combined with a golfer’s performance during their rounds of play. “There’s what you do on the range and what you do on the course,” says Hart, “and we want to have it all in one spot from which you can get feedback.” That’s right: you’ll soon have a convenient portable database with stats on all your slices, shanks and missed two-foot putts. While apps are cheap and convenient, nothing compares to today’s indoor golf simulators, which combine virtual play on famous courses such as Pebble Beach with advanced analysis software and multiple camera angles. XGolf’s top-of-the-line laser-based system goes for about $65,000. About half of sales are to indoor golf facilities, the other half to private homes. The simulator allows users to get side-by-side swing comparisons with clips of their favorite pros. And a feature called On Course Training makes lessons more engaging. “A student practicing 96-yard wedge shots can have it set up as an approach shot on a specific hole at Pebble Beach,” explains XGolf’s manager of sales and business development Ryan D’Arcy. “They can see the results as the ball lands on

different parts of the virtual green.” As with any other piece of technology, there are upsides and downsides. In golf there’s a common issue called ‘paralysis by analysis,’ the point at which the golfer has so many technical thoughts in his mind he can no longer trust his swing to the part of the subconscious that controls muscle movement. Obsessing over angles and positions on your smart phone at the range can be as bad as texting at the dinner table. “Once you begin to leverage video analysis, you have to learn when to close the door,” says Quinton. “Every golfer goes through paralysis by analysis at one time

THE MOST IMPORTANT THING VIDEO ANALYSIS REVEALS IS A GOLFER’S IMPACT POSITION: GOLF’S SO-CALLED MOMENT OF TRUTH. or another, and you need to be your own doctor and recognize the symptoms. [Relying on] video analysis can be a very slippery slope if you’re not careful.” In the same press conference in which he mentioned how much technology is helping the next generation of golfers, Tiger Woods talked about visiting Korea, where indoor golf simulators are extremely popular. New players hit on them exclusively and religiously for six to 12 months, he said, then head outdoors “and have perfect golf swings.” They all look the same, he noted, but maybe sameness is a fair trade-off for perfection.

travel

AFRICAN ADVENTURE

Calling all thrill-seekers (who also crave fine wines, gourmet dining, spa treatments and more). By William Kissel

sit in awe as the open-air vehicle makes its way over an expansive field of oat grass in the northern Serengeti. Suddenly, we’re nose-to-nose with a herd of 400-pound wildebeests all with the same features: a buffalo’s face, a camel’s hump and a horse’s backside. Tens of millions of migrating animals, including the homely, docile wildebeest, call this northernmost region of Tanzania home. If you’re lucky enough to visit East Africa during the off-season (mid-December through March), when the animals are calving and before the great migration gets underway in late July, you’ll find yourself viewing this magical scene almost entirely alone. The endless stream of Land Cruisers that jockey for the best viewing positions during Africa’s peak months in the fall are nowhere to be found on this warm January day: it’s a peaceful moment in nature everyone yearns to experience but few actually do. We drive slowly through a herd of feasting elephants, one of which is nursing a day old calf. We watch three hyenas unsuccessfully stalk a rare black rhino and her newborn offspring, a trio of cheetahs

snake through the tall grasslands, and a lone lion nap under a thorny acacia bush. This is the Africa of your imagination. The panorama of wildlife has drawn visitors since long before the days when Hemingway came to hunt. But now, with the help of two of Africa’s most celebrated tour companies — Nomad Tanzania and Asilia, working in collaboration with Canadian custom tour operator Trufflepig — it’s time to revisit Africa’s original safari destination. East Africa’s safari outfitters have responded to competition for tourism dollars by building plush, deluxe camps and upgrading amenities to appeal to adventure-seekers who also want access to fine wines, spa treatments, pool time and other pamperings. Naturally, getting to these remote camps is a big

Below: The author’s tastefully appointed tent at the Serengeti Safari Camp

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part of the adventure. A commercial flight via South African Airways to Johannesburg is just the first leg in a 36-hour journey. From there we board a second flight to Tanzania, where one of Tanganyika Flying Company’s 12-seat planes awaits to ferry us to Arusha, the gateway town to Serengeti safari. Here we board another small plane for a flyover of Tanzania’s famed Ngorongoro Crater (the largest intact volcano caldera in the world) to Ndutu, a rock-filled airstrip, where the first of many Land Cruisers awaits our arrival. We cross the snake-like Mara river past a pool of hippos and a few crocodiles, and continue on to Ubuntu, one of three mobile camps designed to follow the migrating animals. Rested and well fed, we travel another three hours to our first camp at Olakira. These mobile setups are actually lavish tent cities that require two full days and three trucks to relocate,

and each canvas structure is enormous by anyone’s standards. At both Olakira and Serengeti Safari Camp, tents are self-contained suites with oversized beds, sitting areas with lovely writing desks, and private bathrooms with a chemical toilet and stall shower in lieu of actual plumbing. Even in the remotest part of the world, these private sanctuaries are filled with little amenities to make outdoor living a four-star experience: gas- or battery-powered lighting, daily laundry service, and hot showers provided by stewards who boil water and fill your cistern on demand. Among Tanzania’s few permanent camps is Sayari,

which is operated by Asilia and listed as one of the top five new luxury lodgings in Africa. It’s located in a remote valley five miles from the border of Kenya, home to the Kuria tribe. A mobile camp that found its permanent home just four years ago, Sayari is something of an anomaly among African camps. Its 15 tented structures are shaped like the large tabletop mountain called Turner’s Hill (after Miles Turner, the first warden of the Serengeti), visible in the distance. The tents are outfitted Asian-style with teak floors, shoji screen walls and massive marble tubs to wash away the residue from the raw, dusty plains. It’s a bit disconcerting to be in one of these tubs when a leopard passes by, but the small creature comforts far outweigh the predatory creature discomforts. (Sayari, like most camps, provides each guest with his own private askari, or night watchman, to guard against wild animal attacks.) Unlike Sayari’s Zen Buddhist vibe, few sites scream Africa more than Lamai Serengeti, a one-year-old permanent camp developed by Nomad Tanzania on the rocky Kogakuria Kopje peaks, just a few miles from where the great migration across the Mara river begins. Honored with the 2013 Best New Property in Africa award, it boasts 12 sumptuously appointed thatched roof structures, each with its own wraparound deck. Resident game lingers just outside at sun up, and during the day the playful vervet monkeys can be spotted feasting on the sour plums that dangle from the native Ole Lamai trees, from which the camp gets its name. In case you haven’t guessed, a safari is not the time to catch up on your sleep. Instead, you’ll wake before sunrise for the first of two game drives of the day. Those initial hours on safari are the most adrenaline-filled, especially as you catch your first glimpse of the big five — lion, rhino, leopard, buffalo and elephant — everyone comes to see. Once you’ve spotted them, usually within hours, your mind will open to Africa’s other amazing flora and fauna. Lavish lunches and dinners after each drive offer the perfect opportunity to reflect in solitude or share stories with fellow travelers. And at day’s end, a surprise sundowner cocktail — a nightly African tradition — always awaits where and when you least expect it.

Left: Women of the Kuria tribe in full ceremonial regalia Above right: One of the spectacular bathtubs at Sayari camp

Knowledge. Wisdom. Truth

food

Daniel Boulud, right, with Tyler Shedden, taste testing in Toronto.

clam and parsley broth. My entrée, the duo of cumbra beef, consisted of a dry-aged strip loin alongside red wine-braised short ribs and spinach subric. The grapefruit givré — a frozen grapefruit shell filled with sorbet, grapefruit wedges and rose-flavored Turkish delight, crowned with fluffy threads of halvah and a torched sesame cracker — was a visual masterpiece that playfully juxtaposed textures and temperatures. As the man who invented the gourmet burger, Boulud naturally has ‘mad’ love for beef, and never strays far from the other three Bs: bacon, butter and brioche. I spoke with the master about his successes, his roots on the farm, and what he likes to cook with his daughter, Alix.

Is true fine dining a thing of the past? Fine dining is very much alive and kicking in the greatest cities of the world. But the definition, in many ways, has evolved.

How do you define fine dining? It doesn’t have to be pompous or boring. Fine dining is exciting and rare. For me it can be a $2.50 [piece of] sushi or sashimi made with the highest-quality ingredients. Or going to Brooklyn for the best pizza made with local clams, local herbs, the perfect crust… while

AMERICA’S FRENCH FARM BOY

Chef Daniel Boulud’s dishes are haute but homey, and always from the heart. By Shira Levine o eat a meal crafted by Daniel Boulud is to be dazzled with a full-sensory culinary experience. My epicurean evening took place in Toronto, at the James Beard award-winning chef’s latest restaurant project. Called Café Boulud (like its New York and Palm Beach counterparts), the fine dining hotspot is positioned within the glassy-chic Four Seasons Toronto, recently redone in exquisite style. The multi-cultural culinary Mecca already has its share of hip eateries, yet visitors and locals alike are hungry for a bite of Boulud. Dbar is the lobby bar and café, but it’s the mezzanine-level restaurant outfitted with Mr. Brainwash pop art pieces that has people talking. Indeed about the art (an unexpected pairing with French haute cuisine), but more about the equally jaw-dropping menu. My tasting began with octopus à la plancha followed by a British Columbian black cod persillade in a

it might be casual, it can be fine dining. Of course it’s about the food, but it is also very much about the service, and then the ambiance. Fine dining is about living well and enjoying life.

What is the universal thread that runs throughout your 14 restaurants? Detail. I pay a lot of attention to service and training. Even though fine dining is becoming more casual, it is also more focused on details, more and better service, with more attention paid to making the customers feel at ease with the experience.

You’ve been living in the U.S. for many years; do you still consider yourself a French chef? When you're French you can’t take it out of you. I live in America, and I love America; my daughter was born here. But I am certainly French.

American foodies have embraced regional Italian cooking. Do you think you have been suc-

IMAGE BY CHRISTIAN HORAN

Art by Mr. Brainwash is a lively addition to the décor at Café Boulud. cessful in spreading knowledge about French regional cuisines? Well, you tell me! I love all of it and I think it is fair to say people like my food. The cuisine regional — especially the specialties of cheese and charcuterie — is what has made me ‘stay French’ and feel so proud to cook French. Like many countries we also have the cuisine bourgeois: the food of the people. We have a history of cooking meals that are very elaborate yet very soulful. Then you have brasserie cooking for the big city; bistro is smaller scale and local. Lyon de bouchon is also very special: it’s the micro-scale restaurant where there is no choice on the menu because they serve you what they have made that day. It’s cooked with love. I have lived and worked all my life for haute cuisine: the best of the best. It takes a lifetime to master and it’s still never enough.

What city’s food scene inspires you most? Copenhagen is really exciting. I lived there 32 years ago and I could see then that this place was going to be something amazing one day. I love their street food so much. I love the little skinny hot dog with the tiny bun! There is so much young Danish talent inspiring the culinary world with the way they are thinking about and making food. I also love Charleston, South Carolina. San Francisco and Chicago are longtime favorite food cities.

“Fine dining is about living well and enjoying life.”

These micro-scale restaurants seem to be more appealing to today’s foodies. This is the challenge for young chefs. They open a place with $100,000; it’s a shack, but they cook amazing food. Yes, it is fine cuisine, but the idea is to elevate the town with a fine restaurant. You don’t want a town with all the restaurants imitating one another.

You grew up on a farm in France and weren’t always accustomed to fine dining. What do you make for a home-cooked meal?

I keep it really easy; I cook with my daughter sometimes. I live above Daniel so usually what I do is go down to the restaurant and grab a roast or a fish, and then on the spot propose something for us to make.

Can you envision making your own Jiro Dreams of Sushi film? Maybe Daniel Dreams of Butter? Not like that, but I am working on a documentary. It’s around a new cookbook I have coming out that celebrates 20 years of Daniel. It’s called My French Cuisine. It shows that I’m proud of my French identity and that no matter where I travel and what I experiment with, I still think French food is the best.

fitness

HIT THE MAT

Bikram Yoga is a 90-minute practice performed in a heated room (105 degrees Fahrenheit with 40 percent humidity). Created by Bikram Choudhury, it consists of a sequence of 26 postures and two breathing exercises. “It’s a common misconception that yoga is about sitting cross-legged and chanting,” says instructor Eoin Thomas Sharkey. “Bikram is an intense, physically challenging workout.” “Men generally think that yoga is somehow subsidiary to other, more macho forms of exercise,” says instructor Chris Totaro. “We see it all the time: the girlfriend brings the guy for his first class. He enters the room presumptuous and overconfident, but it’s not long before he’s gawking at the display of strength surrounding him.” Yoga is not just for flex-y, skinny people either; it’s actually more beneficial for those less flexible. The most common excuse is “I’m not flexible enough to do yoga. I can’t even touch my toes,” shares Corinne Idzal, a yoga teacher in New Consistent practice York City. “That’s like saying, will help to increase ‘I’m too sick to go to the doctor.’

strength, stamina and mental focus.

Think yoga has nothing to offer men? Think again. By Elise Diamantini here’s a reason athletes like David Beckham, Kobe Bryant, Kareem Abdul-Jabbar and Andy Murray moonlight as Bikram yogis. Murray, a pro-tennis player who’s currently ranked third in the world and is the reigning Olympic Singles Champion, credits Bikram Yoga for increasing his mental and physical endurance during matches. And Abdul-Jabbar has said that if it weren’t for Bikram Yoga, he could never have played NBA basketball for as long as he did with so few injuries. A consistent yoga practice has been known to increase strength, stamina, flexibility and mental focus, while decreasing stress. Yoga helps prevent and alleviate sports-related injuries by strengthening the muscles around major joints. It creates more flexibility, so it’s a perfect way to improve your golf or tennis swing. And on the superficial side: consistent practice will help you look great in that new modern-fit suit!

It will only get worse if you don’t do something about it.” Idzal says that in general, men are tighter than women because of the anatomical and physiological differences in their bodies. “Not to mention that ‘typical’ male sports tend to create tightness because of high-impact and repetitive movements.” Bikram yogi Anthony Rebholz says a lot of athletes, especially boxers, come into the studio because they need to find more flexibility for their sport. “Working out at the gym is all about contraction and resistance; yoga is about expansion and extending — opening up rather than closing down. Men work a lot of the primary muscle groups at the gym, but yoga works the secondary and tertiary groups. Yoga also makes you become more aware of how you move your body during other forms of exercise.” Totaro, who says he has been more or less injury free for the past decade, also points out that “strength and

flexibility have a reciprocal relationship. The more muscle mass built around a joint, the more the jointâ€™s mobility is decreased. In other words, as weight lifters continue to add bulk, their joint flexibility continually decreases. The comprehensive stretching exercises in a yoga class allow for a more balanced relationship between strength and flexibility.â€? Yoga has also been known to help people heal their injuries, avoid surgery and wean themselves off medicine. A telling example from yogi Nick Graham: â€œA few years ago I was experiencing neurological problems: blackouts, migranes, extreme nausea. I was admitted to the hospital and for a week I was drugged, hooked up to machines and miserable. Soon after, I passed a Bikram studio and stopped in for my first class. After the best night of sleep in my life, I went back the next day, and the next. Finally I stopped taking my meds. All the while I was being tested for myriad things, but I just practiced Bikram as often as I could, and eventually my symptoms disappeared.â€? Yogaâ€™s therapeutic effects are not limited to the physical. Those who practice report that it helps them focus, set goals and explore their potential. Plus, yoga helps keep your emotions in check. â€œYou wonâ€™t act on

impulse,â€? explains instructor Jakob Schanzer. â€œThis was a gradual change for me, but I noticed that I was reacting to things more calmly.â€? If youâ€™re still not convinced, Idzal can offer a few more arguments: â€œYoga is badass! You will sleep better, work better, relax better, make love better... Beginners are shocked by the life-transforming power yoga can have. Physical change is just the beginning.â€?

GETTING STARTED

Tips for beginners from Bikram Yoga instructor Corinne Idzal â€˘ Talk to your teacher before class and let him or her know youâ€™re a beginner. They can ease your mind and give you modifications during class if you need them. â€˘ Go to class hydrated and on an empty stomach. â€˘ Take electrolytes before practicing yoga to help with stamina and muscle cramping. Natural sources like coconut water or green juice are best. â€˘ Itâ€™s not a competition. No one cares if youâ€™re stiff or canâ€™t hold a posture. Even that dancer with her feet behind her head is too focused on her own struggle to be judging you. â€˘ Go often, especially at first. Youâ€™re never the best at something the first time you try it, but the more you practice the better youâ€™ll become.

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feeds highlight upcoming events. But McTear’s, a Scotland-based house, offers timed online auctions, extensive search and notification features, and “Text It,” a free preliminary valuation service allowing customers to snap a picture and text “value.” Meanwhile, ScotchWhiskyAuctions.com is a fully virtual auction house also based in Scotland, hosting weekly events. • Once you have those fancy wines and whiskies, what to do with them? You could buy a Sub-Zero and be done with it, but consider Seattle-based Phenol 55 instead. The new state-of-the-art facility offers not only storage, but also dedicated iPad-based tracking, interaction and bottle summoning. Individual QR codes and professional images help track your bottles, no matter the size of your collection. • While there are dozens of online wine and spirits stores, Caskers.com is the only one to both reflect the trend for flash retailing and curate rare and limited spirits and liqueurs. Offering members short-term sales, email and text updates, specialized clubs and exclusive pre-releases, “we curate carefully,” says cofounder Moiz Ali. “Men in particular don’t like rifling

HI-TECH DRINKING

Technology and alcohol move beyond cocktail apps. By Robert Haynes-Peterson Upgrade to Drinking 2.0, very aspect of our lives has become increasingly hi-tech. There’s no reason our enjoyment of fine wines and spirits shouldn’t also receive an upgrade. Sure, there are cocktail recipe apps, mostly of the ’80s party variety (Sex on the Beach, anyone?), but check out Drinking 2.0: • Wine connoisseurs should consider replacing their iPhones with the Vertu Ti. The latest release from this luxury brand (phones range from $9,600 to $11,500) features a “Vertu key,” providing direct access to professional concierge services including a top sommelier at Berry Brothers & Rudd, Britain’s most well-respected wine and spirits merchant. From exclusive wine tastings to upscale pairing, purchasing and auction advice, it’s unlikely the Pocket Wine app will measure up. • Wine and whisky auctions are increasingly accessible online. Most houses, like Bonhams and Sotheby’s, maintain fairly standard websites, and apps or RSS

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through 1,000 products while they’re wine storage, tracking shopping. We keep the numbers down and bottle retrieval at so you can connect to the product and Seattle’s Phenol 55. find the story behind the distiller.” What could be better than speed and ease?

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yourself; it’s generally better to be overdressed than underdressed and these days, a slim suit scores extra points. 7. Acquire the taste for a good cocktail, straight up. It’s cool to order and enjoy a classic — Manhattan, Rob Roy, Martini, Negroni, etc. — when you’re out on the town. (When in New York, do it at the King Cole Bar in the St. Regis Hotel.) 6. Suggest that your significant other also cultivate a favorite drink to enjoy before dinner. I love it when a lady replies promptly to a bartender’s request for her order. A confident response is sexy. 5. Red wine should be stored and served cool; experts suggest 57 degrees, not room temperature. However, it should be opened and set on the table about 15 minutes before you plan to enjoy it, so it can breathe and warm up just slightly. (Good restaurants know this.) 4. Never let your cologne precede your presence, especially in a restaurant, where fragrance and food smells are not a great combination.

RESTAURANT RULES

Stuff men should know (but probably don’t…) By Frank Schipani hen it comes to certain gentlemanly topics, including dress codes, a generation gap can often impede credibility. Receiving fashion advice from gray-haired guys in suits is not necessarily what young men crave, even if it’s what they need. That said, when it comes to wining, dining and women, experience counts. Here, the top 10 time-tested tips that are bound to score. 10. Always give the lady a facing-out seat (her back against the wall) in a restarant. A woman quite literally ‘dresses’ the room; she should have the observing seat to see and be seen. 9. Turn off your digital devices before entering a restaurant. You’re there to share an experience, not to worry about missed messages. (What could be more insulting?) 8. Always dress in a modern manner no matter where you’re going. Your appearance is how you represent

3. When making any kind of reservation, always note the name of the person you spoke to and the time you called. (Stuff happens; you may arrive only to have someone say “I don’t see your name here…”) 2. Better still, develop a relationship with the manager of a go-to place where you can get in on short notice. All popular restaurants say “We have nothing open but 5:00 or 10:00!” Fact is, they always save a table or two during prime time that they can easily give to loyal clients at the last minute. (If they know and like you, they’ll act like you had an actual reservation and simply make another party wait a little longer.) 1. Tired of dining out or ready for something more intimate? In addition to throwing steaks on the grill, learn how to make at least one dish for the stovetop or oven. May I suggest a basic tomato sauce for your pasta course? Buon appetito!

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When it comes to wining, dining and women, experience counts.

T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R S

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