Malouf’s Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2012
A CHANGE OF SEASONS WARMING UP TO COOLER WEATHER
WHY CUSTOM?
WHY NOT? WE DEBUNK SOME COMMON MYTHS
© D. YURMAN 2012
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Moonlight Ice Collection
Passion for Nature Featuring “Oasi Zegna” Landscape
Malouf’s Kingsgate Center 8201 Quaker Avenue #106 Lubbock, TX 79424 806-794-9500 Southlake Town Square 190 State Street Southlake, TX 76092 817-416-7100 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman
DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle
PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
FEATURES 2
Welcome Letter
54 Collections: Auction Awe 56 Décor: If Walls Could Talk 60 Food: Roll With It
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti
CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell
MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell
DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi
FASHION 12 Jet-Set Into Fall 24 Designers: Sebastian-Style 26 Designers: Very Vivek 30 Fit: The Evolution of the Suit 33 Why Choose Custom? 38 The Merits of Made to Measure 40 A Change of Seasons
DEPARTMENTS 8
Ask John
10 Ask Kendra 50 World Scene 62 End Page: Enough Already 64 In-Store Services
PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones
CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
APPAREL FORUM
Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-6866821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 15, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
FALL FASHION TIPS FOR HER
DESIGNED BY EDWARD WILKERSON
LAFAYETTE148NY.COM
designers
Sebastian Dollinger
ETON’S DESIGNER BRINGS A FRESH YOUNG TAKE TO LUXURY SHIRTINGS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
tantly took a job in the Eton stockroom, then gradually worked his way up. “I took the long road at Eton, determined to prove myself without favoritism. (Editor’s note: Since his dad has a different last name, few people were aware of the relationship.) I went from the stockroom to a London-based position to a sales job, where I increased volume in my Swedish accounts by 800 percent. At that point, I felt vindicated and was excited to move to a design job.” Explaining the success of Eton, Dollinger sums it up simply: “We don’t take shortcuts; we spend on quality. We use the best French and Italian mills for our fabrics. We’ve developed a special finishing process that takes four-and-a-half weeks extra but adds luster and life to the shirts.” Other success secrets: a sophisticated use of color, pattern and detailing so the shirts are interesting but not over-the-top. “Balance is important,” says Dollinger, who also paints. “There’s a way to combine elements so it’s not screaming or in your face.”
SEBASTIAN-STYLE ith DeVotchKa blasting in the background, it was hard to hear Sebastian Dollinger, conducting this interview from the studio in Sweden where he designs the world-renowned Eton shirt collection. “Yes, I design to music; it’s a big part of my life,” he confides. “I’m a DJ and a drummer when I’m not designing shirts…” He came to designing Eton shirts in a roundabout way: since his father, Jan Borghardt, has worked for the company since 1981, it was the last thing he’d planned to do. “My dad is from Holland; he met my mom on a sailing trip to Sweden, fell in love and needed a job. He started in the Eton stockroom and is now number two at the company. I was born in ’83. I was a wild kid who got kicked out of school and took various jobs pumping gas and waiting tables. But when I ultimately took a stockroom job, I made sure it was the cleanest stockroom in the universe. My dad taught me to take pride in my work, whatever it is…” After serving in the army for a year, Dollinger reluc-
“Don’t wear one brand from head to toe. Be your own brand: it’s more fun that way!” says Dollinger. Finally, there’s the fit factor: Eton shirts come in three different fits so that they feel custom-made. “Eton isn’t just another global brand with extensive marketing; it’s quality in every way. Plus we’re one of very few companies to specialize in shirts.” When he’s not designing, Dollinger is out and about. “My body clock is reversed: I work late and come alive even later. I never watch TV; I’m out doing things. In addition to music (these days he’s listening to Joy Division, Demolition, The Black Keys, Muddy Waters) and design, I love writing (poetry, song lyrics), and also cosmology. I was always that strange little boy who studied the stars every night…”
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CAN A MANʼS TROUSER OR JEAN, A NECESSARY BASIC ITEM OF CLOTHING, BE TRANSFORMED INTO A “MUST HAVE?” ̶HILTL THINKS SO
T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . AND JEANS
designers
VERY VIVEK!
“I try not to use big factories. Instead, I support the artisans: it’s product from their hearts and souls.”
AMONG THE QUIRKIEST MENSWEAR DESIGNERS OUT THERE, VIVEK NAGRANI KNOWS THAT DETAILS COUNT! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN He’s been in the menswear business for 14 years, starting with socks because “no one
was doing it right! “Throughout history, fancy socks have been associated with the aristocracy because they’re expensive to make. Especially today, when men don’t have to conform, whimsical socks allow self-expression. The right socks indicate refinement, culture, confidence; they take your look from average to way above. Sinatra wore orange socks. Spanish matadors wear pink socks. (And what’s more manly than fighting a bull?) Socks are probably the most expressive items we wear, so why settle for boring?” His whimsical socks in the finest knits (produced in small, family-owned workshops in Italy and Peru) are not just top quality; they also give back to the community. Among the many events Nagrani has created over the years, most involve a charitable component. For example, last year’s Big Brothers Big Sisters event featured socks designed by kids in need. “We sold 3,200 pairs in a single store, but it was more about the impact of this project on these kids, most of whom are so underprivileged it’s hard to describe. Suddenly there they are showing off their own designs on the
evening news! You cannot imagine their happiness, and what that did to their self-esteem…” Nagrani also does special items, like custom socks for wedding parties and custom underwear (some with rather risqué sayings on the band). One year he did a pure vicuña sock packaged in a mahogany box for $895. “We sold only 27 units, so not a huge success, but for me, risk-taking is the only way to move forward.” Nagrani’s newest division of socks and underwear is called Ugly Vix, a slightly lower-priced, retro-inspired collection aimed at younger guys. He describes it as “good taste gone bad.” “Young guys don’t want to dress like their dads, but they might want to dress like their grandpas,” he maintains, showing off the shorter-length socks he’s personally wearing: not quite mid-calf length but designed to stay up, enough for today’s shorter pants. When he’s not working or traveling to stores (he spends 150 days each year on the road), Nagrani loves to golf, cook, hang out with his beautiful wife and threeyear-old daughter (already a fashionista) and create, create, create! “I watch people shop and then figure out what I can do to enhance the product and/or the experience. If I can’t inspire, why am I in business?”
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fit
SLIMMING DOWN Shoulders: Narrower by about an inch, they are less padded and more natural than they once were.
Lapels: Narrow is more modern (but peak lapels are fashion forward, said to have “attitude”).
Chest: Less padded than it used to be, since it’s now made with lighter-weight canvases and interlinings.
A TRIMMED-DOWN SUIT MEANS A TRIMMER-LOOKING YOU!
Button Stance: Lower, with two buttons more fashionable than three. Sleeves: Should hit at or slightly above the
wrist to show some shirt cuff (about a quarter to a half inch). Sleeves below the wrist are much too long!
Jacket Length: At least an inch shorter than five
years ago (now 30 inches long on a size 40 regular).
THE EVOLUTION Trousers: Much slimmer than they were. Flat-fronts
are dominant over pleats, but both are acceptable as long as the pant is not too billowy. Most makers have shortened the thigh and the rise measurements by about an inch, the knee by a half inch.
You might not have noticed much difference from one year to the next, but look back five years and the change in men’s suits is blatant! Gone are the broad padded shoulders and loose billowy trousers. No more wide lapels or padded chests. Today’s suits are neither tight nor restrictive, but they skim the body in a way that’s flattering to all physiques. A new slimmer suit can make you look your best. Give it a try!
Break: Modern trousers should have either no break or a slight break that hits mid-shin. The hem should just cover the top of the shoelaces. If you’re tripping on your trouser bottoms, they are clearly dated! Cuffs: Flat-front pants do not take cuffs; cuffs are optional but not necessary with pleated trousers.
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Civita di Bagnoregio
The State is the actuality of the ethical idea
SERGIO KURHAJEC WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY STYLING BY
Why choose
CUSTOM? The benefits of a timeless sartorial tradition.
Quite simply...
The best thing about custom is that it’s made just for you.
The modern suit as we know it was born in mid-19th century England. A style of men’s clothing evolved that interwove influences from the landed gentry, the military, surgeons, sports and the Industrial Revolution. Ever since, gentlemen the world over have sought to perfect it.
Individual style and comfort. Unsurpassed fit. Today, more and more men are choosing custom.
A custom suit is not only the ultimate expression of a man’s individual taste and style; it also allows superior comfort and, of course, fit. Custom clothing has increasingly grown in popularity in recent years. Our forebears would be envious of the fabric, model and detailing options available today!
CHANGE AS LITTLE AS YOU WANT... If you’re a 40 Regular and you just want a slightly different colored fabric.
“Most men try custom for the vast choice of fabrics. Then they discover all the other wonderful subtleties.” menswear merchant Russ Mitchell
CHANGE AS MUCH AS YOU WANT... fabric
/ -$ 'Ĺż*+/$*).Ĺż$) '0 Ĺż2**'.Ĺż*!Ĺż varying weights and weaves, cashmeres, flannels, linens, cottons and highly technical new performance fibers. Add to that a dizzying array of patterns, pinstripes and color shades and you can create something that is truly your own.
Or, if you’re difficult to fit and want a flannel double-breasted suit with aubergine lining, patch pockets, horn buttons and two pairs of pants. model
Jacket length, pant cut, button stance, lapel width, vents, pleats, pocket style, cuffs... these are some of the many style features you can customize. Some of the design decisions you will get to make and enjoy are:
PANT
ĕſſ ' / ſ*-ſôſ /Č!-*)/Ěſ ĕſſ 0ïſſ*-ſ)*ſ 0ïſĚ ĕſſ )"/#đſ # - ſ/*ſ - &Ě ĕſſ "ſ*+ )$)"đſ *2ſ.'$(ſ*-ſ2$ Ě
lining
From solid to paisley and subtle to wacky, a custom lining gives you the opportunity to add a splash of color or a surprise that can be your own little secret.
Undeniably, the greatest draw of custom is the extraordinary variety of choices available in fabric. While stores can only buy and hang a limited amount of ready-to-wear options, the fabric selection in custom is in the thousands!
buttons JACKET
ĕſſ * 'Ä‘Ĺż - $/$*) 'Ĺż*-Ĺż Ĺż new slimmer silhouette? ĕſſ $)"' ÄŚ - ./ Ĺż1.Ä?Ĺż *0 ' ÄŚ breasted ĕſſ 0//*)Ĺż./ ) đſýſ*-ſÞĚſ *2Ĺż#$"#Äš ĕſſ + '.Ä‘Ĺż *2Ĺż2$ Ěſ */ # Äš ĕſſ * & /Ĺż./4' ĕſſ )/Ĺż./4' ĕſſ & /Ĺż' )"/# ĕſſ ' 1 Ä‘Ĺż )"/#Ěſ *-&$)"Ĺż 0//*).Äš
Down the front or at your wrists? Two or three, gold or silver, blue or bone? Buttons are another fun way to make a suit uniquely yours.
CUSTOM 101: THE SHIRT fabric
Contrary to what you may have heard, custom is not just for dress shirts. A couple of custom sport shirts are fabulous go-to pieces for your casual wardrobe as well. Dressy or casual, the variety of colors and patterns can be a bit overwhelming, but you can create stunning signature looks that could never be achieved off-the.# '!ďſ ' 4ſ2$/#ſ/# ſ / $'.ďſ 1 ſ some fun!
Our most popular custom item is the custom shirt. Try one and see why so many say that “once you go custom, you never go back.” collar
Whether you prefer straight, spread, curve point, cutaway, band collar or any other style, you’ll be amazed how something as simple as a change in collar can customize your look.
common MYTHS about custom: Custom is only for the difficult to fit.
While custom tailoring ensures men of every body type the best possible fit, custom is every bit as sought-after by men who can readily wear off-the-rack clothing. They choose it for the signature look they can create as well as for the extensive fabric selection.
Custom takes forever.
cuffs
Aside from the classic straight two-button cuff, there are many cuff options to choose from to give your shirt that certain je ne sais quoi, including the one-button round cuff,
pockets
' $)Ĺż+* & /Ä?Ĺż 0//*)Ĺż+* & /Ä?Ĺż Square pocket. Or no pocket. Do you like the front smooth or do you prefer a place for your glasses?
buttons
An unexpected button color, material or design is another great detail to work (or play) with.
monogram
the one-button angle cuff and of course, the French cuff... which also comes in several variations!
A monogram is the ultimate way to make a shirt uniquely yours. Simple yet elegant, pick a style that ranges from the traditional to the very modern. And choose from many placement options, too!
*/Ĺż /Ĺż ''Ä?Ĺż ) Ĺż )Ĺż 3+ -$ ) tailor has taken and recorded all of your measurements, they are stored just for you. You simply pick out your details and your suit should be ready $)ſýſ/*ĹżÄ Ĺż2 &.Ä?
Custom is costprohibitive. With the
rising popularity of custom clothing, designers are stocking larger libraries of fabric and details and are equipped with several made-to-measure models as starting points. This has brought down costs. You no longer have to be a CEO (or royalty) to wear it!
By William Kissel
The Merits of
MADE TO MEA
_____________________________________ Any man who’s bought an off-the-rack suit in the past half century probably thinks that what you see on the sales floor is what you get. If the fit, fabric or color you want isn’t in stock, you’re out of luck. Not so fast. Thanks to the rapidly growing concept of made to measure, top fashion brands like Zegna, Isaia, Samuelsohn, Canali, Kiton and Brioni have slowly transformed the once-bland process of buying a business suit (or sportcoat) into a very personal expression of a man’s good taste and sense of style. Want a broken pinstripe on a medium-blue super 150s wool, or a windowpane check in a soft brown cashmere/silk blend? Consider it done. Looking for that hard-to-find trimcut, double-breasted jacket and want to customize it with a lining in your wife’s favorite shade of lavender? It’s yours simply for the asking. Just a few decades ago, the only way to have a suit made your way was to visit a custom tailor, a process that required you to dig deep into your wallet, be patient enough to sit through multiple fittings, and then wait the required six-month production time. But after Ermenegildo Zegna became inspired by a concept the Japanese had developed in the early 1970s, he and other luxury suit makers found a way to speed up the
process and drastically lower the cost. Made to measure also allows stores to offer much more product than what fits on the sales floor. “When my father first started selling Zegna in Japan, he was quite surprised to see the small amount of real estate they had for retail,” explains Gildo Zegna, group chief executive at the family-owned Ermenegildo Zegna brand. “Back then our collection was very big, and he thought to himself, ‘How can I show it all?’ He found the Japanese had a clever system where they would show all the fabric swatches, like in a showroom, and let the customer pick the pattern and style. Within a few weeks the jacket was made to order for him. My father thought, ‘If the Japanese can make this work, why can’t we?’” A hybrid form of custom suit making, made to measure cuts out the more costly practice of creating a separate pattern for every customer from scratch (as a bespoke tailor would do). Made-to-measure suits are produced from a pre-existing pattern that is later
_____________________________________ 38
SURE
_____________________________________ altered at the factory to meet your own physical ing, depending on the fabric) and your personal requirements. “The difference in quality between cus- sense of style. tom and made to measure is maybe none,” offers one In the past, only hard-to-fit men—those with sloping luxury suit maker. “The only difference is how you get shoulders, curved backs, protruding abdomens or through the process.” In the case of made to measure, extremely large or small bodies—took advantage of you simply try on a jacket at these suit making services. Today the store that’s close to your it’s all about choice. “Superior fit is size and style preference, and certainly a big factor. But I’d say the suit maker adjusts the the larger factor is men wanting to pattern for a more precise fit. be different and own something Along the way you choose unique,” explains Arnold the fabric (from literally Silverstone, creative director at thousands of choices beyond Samuelsohn. “It’s a particularly those offered ready-made at great service for guys who are the store) as well as the super fit and require more than details—from working or the standard 6-inch drop found on FASTER THAN YOU’D THINK... non-working button holes, off-the-rack clothing,” he says. “A Because made to measure cuts center or side vents, and the guy might be a 42 Regular on top out the practice of creating a number of pleats (or no but waist-wise he’s a 32, which is a separate pattern for every pleats) on your trousers, to 10-inch drop. You won’t find that customer from scratch, suits are the number, size and shape of combination off the rack.” produced from a pre-existing the pockets and even the There’s one more reason for pattern that is later altered at the color of the interior lining. choosing made to measure: factory to meet your own Need an extra interior pocket “Clothes are very expensive and physical requirements. to house your cigarettes or most men who spend $1,000 or cell phone? You’ve got it. more on a suit want it to last from Want mother of pearl or titafive to seven years,” explains one nium buttons? They’re yours. Then, a mere four to six suit maker. “If a guy is going to live with it that long, weeks later, you have a suit that fits both your budget it better have all the details he loves. And the best (only about 20 percent more than off-the-rack pricway to ensure that is to create it himself.”
_____________________________________ 39
Days are getting shorter. Waves rougher. And that increasing nip i s in the air! As summer sun gives way to autumn leaves, here are some ways to adapt... with style.
A CHANGE OF
SEASONS
PHOTOGRAPHY HAIR & MAKEUP STYLING
SERGIO KURHAJEC CLAIRE BAYLEY WENDY MCNETT
A CHANGE OF
SEA SONS
Texture. Drawn from nature
itself, fall’s fibers are a bit wild and roughly hewn: thick knits, coarse wools and cottons, heavy twills...
A CHANGE OF
SEA SONS
Layers. There’s no more
stylish or practical way to stay warm than with a few versatile layering pieces. Pile on or peel off as needed!
A CHANGE OF
SEA SONS
Warmth! Chunky cables, soft suedes and cashmeres, luxurious leathers, fur trim. And don’t forget a cozy scarf or two...
FALL 2012 We made Bills better by not changing a thing.速
Cut & Sewn in the U.S.A.
world scene
DISCOVERING PERU
N
ear the Andes Mountains and Cuzco, the site of the Inca Empire’s capital, Peru is probably on your destination wish list. For travelers who, after spending their days exploring this intriguing region, want to relax in sumptuous surroundings, there’s Palacio Nazarenas. Orient-Express, in collaboration with Peru’s National Institute of Culture, has restored this former 16th-century convent, carefully preserving the property’s heritage while elevating the accommodations to luxury standards. Located in an exclusive enclave in downtown Cuzco, Palacio Nazarenas has personal butlers, and Chef Virgilio Martinez presents specialty dishes featuring indigenous herbs and decorated with edible flowers. For the adventurous guest who needs to unwind after a day of sightseeing or climbing the Andes, there’s the Hypnôze Spa, which uses Peruvian ingredients such as pink Andean salt, flowers and herbs in tailor-made body treatments.
Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson
AFTER HOURS
MATTHEW BUCKLEY
A
s a child, Gary R. Sullivan began collecting antiques, particularly clocks. Today, Sullivan’s an expert on the subject: he’s seen regularly on Antiques Roadshow, lectures on early American clocks, and contributes often to books and scholarly research. Clock aficionados can drop into his shop in Sharon, Massachusetts and discover an impressive collection of American antique furniture from the Queen Anne through Classical periods, and many remarkable clocks. There’s one with a rocking ship movement, another boasting fruit and fern detail. Sullivan’s crowning clock is perhaps the mahogany Wood & Taylor star inlaid case clock, which stands at over eight feet tall. This flamboyantly decorated clock has a patriotic star motif and exotic contrasting mirror inlays. A nice way to watch time pass.
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S I N C E 1 93 3
LY N C H B U R G , VA
SHOWN: WEEKEND BAG BROMPTON BROWN, TUSCANY COGNAC & TUSCANY RIVER
FANCY FOOD FROM THE FOREST
I
n New York’s Hudson River Valley, Crown Maple Farms sits on 800 acres of rich soil where 25,000 century-old sugar and red maples flourish, producing a superior sap for maple sugaring. The farm’s “syrup sommelier” oversees separation of the syrups, and this autumn (in time for National Maple Syrup Day on December 17) the Grade A Dark Amber has such a rich flavor it’s risen to the dizzying heights of haute gourmet. Many of the top chefs in the country, including six of the seven 3-star Michelin restaurants in New York City, have chosen Dark Amber as a marinade or culinary ingredient, even using it to make ice cream. Of course, you don’t have to be a great cook—Crown Maple Farms’ syrups drizzle perfectly over pancakes, too.
CUSTOM CRUISING
F
rom November 15, 2012 through February 27, 2013, Amanresorts will launch a series of extraordinary five- and seven-night voyages through the Indonesian Archipelago of Raja Ampat, one of the world’s most exceptional marine areas, on their custom-built, 105-foot Amanikan coastal cruiser. Scuba divers can view over 1,300 species of fish, 603 species of hard coral, 57 species of mantis shrimp and 15 mammal species. The islands are home to rare orchids, sea eagles, tree kangaroos and birds of paradise. The very chic Amanikan offers just three luxury cabins with king-sized beds and ensuite bathrooms (suitable for three couples or a single family) and the crew of 10 includes a dive instructor and private chef.
NEW YORK CITY was built on nightlife One night the party ended We stopped dancing on tables Bring back the night...
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GOODING & CO.
collections
A 1957 Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa Prototype sold in 2011 for $16,400,000.
Pablo Picasso’s Nude, Green Leaves and Bust sold in 2010 for $106,482,500.
CHRISTIE’S
CHRISTIE’S
IT’S AMAZING WHAT MONEY CAN BUY…
AUCTION AWE
The Elizabeth Taylor Diamond sold in 2011 for $8,818,500.
BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE A rare $1 coin from 1804 sold in 2008 for $3,737,500.
Abraham Lincoln’s 1864 Victory Speech sold in 2009 for $3,442,500.
CHRISTIE’S
HERITAGE AUCTIONS
Detective Comics #27 (DC, 1939) sold in 2010 for $1,075,500.
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Eric Clapton’s Fender Stratocaster guitar, “Blackie,” sold in 2004 for $959,500. CHRISTIE’S
HERITAGE AUCTIONS
SCP AUCTIONS
Babe Ruth’s 1920s New York Yankees jersey sold in 2012 for $4,400,000.
BRENIA
TELMA FOR A COMFORTABLE AND EFFORTLESS WALKING EXPERIENCE. The SOFT-AIR TECHNOLOGY of MEPHISTO makes tired feet a thing of the past. The flexible SOFT-AIR mid-sole minimizes the shock resulting from walking which offers protection to your feet, relief for your joints and proper care for your back.
décor
IF WALLS COULD TALK Who doesn’t love a good story? When the Coney Island boardwalk was repaired with concrete and plastic, the South American wood was “rescued” and restored, and the new owner of this iconic material now has quite a tale to tell. A hot trend in home design, reclaimed wood is available in varieties ranging from 600-year-old bog or swamp oak to remnants of historic buildings. Accent walls, flooring, benches, tables, decking—its applications are limited only by one’s imagination. Antique redwood, originally railroaded across the country and recently rescued from now-defunct New York City water towers, is particularly desirable because redwood is no longer harvested. Constructed by barrel makers in the 1800s, these towers were used
to store and deliver water to the top floors of New York skyscrapers. Strong yet light and water-resistant, this wood can be creatively optimized by highlighting the patterns made over time by water. Combining the interior, water-stained wood with exterior wood that was exposed to rain, wind and local natural elements takes the time-worn look up a notch. And owning a piece of the New York skyline is priceless. Gus Retsinas, a wood flooring specialist at Manhattan Forest Products, insists that the days of tossing scrap materials are gone. “Green is in. When a building is demolished, someone wants the bricks, someone else the wood.” Their New York Showroom features a walk-in closet with reclaimed wood flooring, finished with natural oils to bring out its intrinsic color and beauty. (The treatment
56
LITTLENY
RECLAIMED WOOD TELLS ITS OWN TALE. BY LENORE RICH
FOR
Each time-worn board has its own character, thanks in part to its original geographic location. Oak from New England isn’t identical to oak from Michigan.” When building their Santa Fe home, the Alexanders used reclaimed wood extensively. Ceiling beams were constructed from trees that died naturally and had intrinsic rustic character. Some flooring was purchased from an upstate New York mill that cut the wood before the tree was downed. By so doing, the width of the planks measures in at an exceptional 24 inches; there are also fewer seams and an undeniable originality. Old barn wood appealed to them because it had been hand chiseled. Yet another wood they selected was milled
CONVERSATION STARTER Reclaimed wood has its own unique color and character.
BRICK WALL Wooden “bricks” fashioned from Coney Island’s famous boardwalk, pictured on previous page.
EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN Wood from New York City’s water towers can be a part of your home.
“OWNING A PIECE OF THE NEW YORK SKYLINE IS PRICELESS.”
in 1882, their building was destroyed in a 2010 fire. The owners could not rebuild, much of the wood was reclaimed, and so the story lives on. “People are knowledgeable and discerning,” says Retsinas. “Many seek out a specific source or finish.
and three inches thick, providing a unique look as well as superb soundproofing. Is leather your preference? Ecodomo’s line of reclaimed (recycled) leather comes from tanneries that produce for BMW, Coach and the like. Made from at least 70% pre-consumer recycled material, it’s shredded and bound with natural latex and bark. Versatile and economical, it can be used anywhere wood veneer is applied. Remodeling your entertainment area? Why not opt for wood flooring from a famed brewery, a chandelier crafted from antique wine barrels and a recycled BMW sofa? It’s all about the look…and the story!
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MANHATTAN FOREST PRODUCTS
does for wood what hand cream does for dry skin.) Many customers, including well-known celebrities, seek this material out for “the look” as well as “the story.” Prices range from roughly $11 to $40 per square foot. Another popular source for wood as conversation piece: the stock of reclaimed wood from the Marsellus Casket Company, famed for fine wood caskets used by notables like John F. Kennedy, Jacqueline Onassis, Richard Nixon and Mickey Mantle. Established
f you’re looking for something light to eat, few things satisfy like sushi. With properties that promote better memory and overall well-being, it’s long been one of the staples of the East. But over the last two decades, Americans have increasingly wanted to make it for themselves. The good news is, it’s not as hard as you may think—but it will require patience. Wing Lam, owner and head chef of Zen Sushi, says making sushi rolls at home comes down to two things: practice and creativity. “It’s like anything: keep at it and [the finished product] will continue to get better,” he says, “…as long as you buy good rice!” Beyond that essential ingredient is seaweed, which forms the outside of the wrap, and then whatever you choose to put inside. It’s best to use rice that’s short and thin, mixed with vinegar, salt and sugar. To save time, Lam suggests buying the pre-made rice mix at your local Asian market (or order online at asianfoodgrocer.com). Now for the seaweed. Ever wonder how chefs are able to wrap it so perfectly around the rice? Using a bamboo mat is their clever secret. Decide how thick you prefer your sushi rolls to be and choose your mat accordingly: the thicker the individual bamboo sticks that make up the mat, the thicker the roll will be. Cut one-half to twothirds of a sheet of your purchased seaweed, place it in the center of the bamboo mat, and cover all except the outer edges of the seaweed with rice. Now comes the creativity. You can put anything
STYLE IS AS MUCH A PART OF SUSHI AS SUBSTANCE.
inside a sushi roll. However, there are certain standbys to consider. The California roll is among the most popular, containing crabmeat, cucumber, avocado and carrot. The Philadelphia roll highlights salmon and cream cheese, sometimes along with avocado or cucumber. Or make up your own! Once you’ve decided, make sure to distribute the ingredients evenly over the width of the seaweed; otherwise, when you cut the roll, some pieces may not contain any filling. Then lift the edge of the bamboo mat and begin to push it forward, rolling the contents within. Slowly open the mat and slice your finished roll into individual sushi pieces. Even once you’ve created your roll, the product still isn’t finished. You’ll notice many sushi establishments don’t just throw them on the plate; style is almost as much a part of sushi as substance. Try artfully drizzling your chosen sauce over the plate in an eyecatching design, or lining up individual sushi pieces to form a pattern. In addition, consider the serving plates you use: smaller ones tend to accentuate the sushi’s own beauty. You can even perfect your at-home sushi experience right down to the music. Choose soft melodies to enhance the already relaxing atmosphere which goes along with eating a light and healthful meal. “Making sushi takes skill, but don’t be afraid to try different things,” Lam emphasizes. “Some of the best flavor combinations come from experimentation.”
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YOU DON’T HAVE TO EAT OUT TO EAT SUSHI. BY ERIC BUTTERMAN
WHY TOO MUCH IS TOO MUCH. BY HANS GSCHLIESSER
“RESEARCH REVEALS THAT PEOPLE SCORE HIGHER ON THE HAPPINESS INDEX IF THEY LIMIT THEIR CHOICES.”
TOWN OR COUNTRY? A look from Thom Browne’s fall/winter 2012 collection
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ENOUGH ALREADY!
On a recent shopping excursion, I came to the conclusion that too much of a good thing is not necessarily good. Like most people, I don’t enjoy being overwhelmed by an avalanche of irrelevant and dizzying options. Who wants to spend hour upon hour searching for something presentable to wear? You know what I mean. In everyday life, despite the myriad cable channels, YouTube videos, Twitter feeds and social media posts, there’s little that actually holds my attention. This goes for the overabundance of fashion messages as well. Looking at hundreds, if not thousands, of posted images from fall 2012 menswear shows in Milan, Paris and New York, I’m tempted to buy nothing at all. The reality is, I’m not inclined to look like a deranged escapee from a Thom Browne fashion show, nor am I ready to wear a skirt. All I really want are some nice-looking, appropriate, slightly slimmer-cut suits and sportcoats to make me look somewhat in the know. As it turns out, it’s not just me: Experts confirm that drowning in decisions is a symptom of society’s current excesses. This is well documented in psychologist Barry Schwartz’s insightful book, The Paradox of Choice: Why More is Less. “As the number of options increases, the effort required to make a good decision escalates as well, which is one of the reasons that choice can be transformed from a blessing into a burden,” Schwartz writes. “It’s also one of the reasons we don’t always manage the decision-making task effectively.” Once you realize that too many choices are unhealthy, it’s a welcome relief to find a store that offers a well-curated assortment of great clothes you actually want to wear. This removes unnecessary stress from the decision-making process and purportedly raises one’s happiness index. (And who doesn’t want to be happier?) So for those with a penchant for Armani, Zegna, Canali, Hugo Boss and Ralph Lauren, check out your local independent menswear store for a well-edited mix of beautiful clothing. You’ll take comfort in a simplified shopping experience, great service and an easy-to-understand presentation of the best of the best. “Can one desire too much of a good thing?” ponders William Shakespeare in As You Like It. And the answer is, emphatically, yes!
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