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Larrimor’s Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2012

A CHANGE OF SEASONS WARMING UP TO COOLER WEATHER

WHY CUSTOM?

WHY NOT? WE DEBUNK SOME COMMON MYTHS

LARRIMOR’S 249 Fifth Avenue, Pittsburgh 412-471-5727 The Galleria, Mt. Lebanon 412-344-5727 Larrimors.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

FEATURES 22 Parking in Pittsburgh 28 Nothing Generic About Andrew Kozusko

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi

36 Happenings

PRESIDENT AND CEO

44 People Really Do Visit Pittsburgh

CHAIRMAN AND COO

Britton Jones Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

FASHION 8

Fall Fashion Forward

42 Fit: The Evolution of the Suit 47 Why Choose Custom? 52 The Merits of Made to Measure 56 A Change of Seasons

DEPARTMENTS 20 Ask Forum for Her 32 Ask Forum for Him 66 Food: Roll With It 68 Icons: The Marilyn Mystique

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-6866821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 15, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

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FALL FASHION FORWARD

BY LISA SLESINGER, CO-OWNER & BUYER | PHOTOGRAPHY BY TOM CWENAR

LARRIMOR’S FOR HER, we

in rich colors and seasonless fabrics. Bright, bold colors from

are excited to announce that we are “expecting” a

this past season transition into deep jewel tones—look for

number of new additions this season! As a matter of

colorblock jackets and sweaters, and super-clean sheath

fact, thanks to your great feedback, friendship and support,

dresses from Rachel Roy and Escada. Pants are either wider

we are on our way to doubling our seasonal offerings.

(look for fabrics with some movement to keep them looking

N BEHALF OF YOUR FRIENDS AT

Welcome to our evolution! Our designer, lifestyle and

feminine) or slim. Yes, leggings are still with us; look for novelty

contemporary selections have never been more expansive.

fabrics, leather trim, or self fabric patches and pair with more

There is and will be an ever-changing selection of looks from

volume on top or a fitted jacket over a long layer as a base.

new and beloved designers that include more styles, more sizes and a wider range of price-points than ever before.

Don’t forget to finish your look with the perfect accessories. Our team has a solution for every challenge! Style is in the

Some of your current favorite designers, like Etro, Santorelli

bag with B May, Will Leather, Kooba, Hammitt, Romy Gold,

and Lafayette 148 New York, are joined by newcomers

Plinio Visona, MZ Wallace and Treesje. Structured or soft,

Escada, Lida Baday, St. John, Armani Collezioni, Fuzzi and D. Exterior. We have also expanded lifestyle sportswear to include more of what you want: Autumn Cashmere,

Thanks to your great feedback, friendship and support, we are on our way to doubling our seasonal offerings.

Aldo Martins, Caroline Rose, Damask, Kinross, Beija Flor and XCVI.

look for muted “fall” colors or new neutrals punched up by

Our “ageless” contemporary gives you more special items,

textural interest. Wrap yourself in our ever-growing selection

each one “on trend” from current and new favorites: Vince,

of scarves and shawls from Emilio Pucci, Etro, Brightly

Jakett, Magaschoni, Yoga Jeans, Rachel Roy, Gender Bias,

Twisted, Me & Kashmere, Yarnz, Kinross and Pashma. Get

Lola & Sophie.

your shine on with our newest jewelry collections, including

This season, look for feminine and flattering dresses from every line including, Issa—which Kate Middleton has made part of her signature look. The resurrected pantsuit from Armani, Escada, Lida Baday and Santorelli looks as chic as ever

Alexis Bittar, Deborah Grivas, Vita Fede and new great styles from Gillian Julius. Turn the page for a peek of what’s in store for you this season.

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Including

the Next Generation in the Financial Planning Process When you meet with your financial advisor, are your children, grandchildren and other beneficiaries included in the process? If the answer is no, you are not alone. More often than not, when I ask clients if they wish to include children in our discussions, the responses range from, â€œOur children are doing fine.â€? to â€œThey donâ€™t need to know about our finances.â€? I believe it is prudent for those closest to you, particularly as they grow older, to be included in every step of the financial planning process. They should know about your lifestyle, assets, liabilities, attitudes about money, future goals, and to whom and where you want your money to go once you are gone. NADAV BAUM Executive Vice President, Financial Advisor

INCLUDE THE NEXT GENERATION AS YOU ESTABLISH AND PRIORITIZE YOUR FINANCIAL GOALS:

Mr. Baum can be contacted at NBAUM BPUINVESTMENTS COM

s 3HARE YOUR FINANCIAL PLAN WITH THEM $ISCUSS YOUR SHORT AND LONG TERM PLANS ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE NEARING RETIREMENT OR HAVE RECENTLY RETIRED

s 4ELL THEM WHAT YOU PLAN TO DO DURING RETIREMENT SUCH AS RELOCATE DOWNSIZE TRAVEL

s "E SURE THEY KNOW HOW YOU PLAN TO COVER YOUR HEALTH CARE AND IF NECESSARY LONG TERM CARE NEEDS

s -AKE THEM AWARE OF YOUR LEGACY PLANS INCLUDING WHAT YOU PLAN TO DO NOW

Financial discussions can be difficult, even among the most congenial of families. Still, if you begin sharing information early on in the process, you can feel more confident, avoid future conflicts, and make better decisions today that can affect long-term financial goals.

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nb061212

The accuracy and completeness of this information is not guaranteed. The opinions expressed are those of the author and not necessarily those of BPU Investment Management, Inc. or its affiliates. The material is solely for informational purposes and is not a solicitation of an offer to buy any security or instrument or to participate in any trading strategy. Though our firm provides planning services, we do not render specific legal, accounting or tax advice. Always consult an appropriate professional before implementing any planning decisions. Asset allocation, diversification, and rebalancing do not assume a positive return or protect against loss. ÂŠ 2012 BPU Investment Management, Inc.

FASHION TIPS FOR HER

What’s new in contemporary fashion?

We are constantly tweaking our contemporary mix, as fashions change quickly, but we always want your clothes to offer you versatility. At LARRIMOR’S for her, we look for modern knits, sweaters and shirts that can be worn with your favorite jeans or leggings. Some of our picks for fall 2012 include Vince’s supersoft tees in a variety of shapes, Autumn Cashmere’s colorblocked sweaters and knit dresses, and Gender Bias’s double-knit jackets and tunics. We are also excited to bring you Rachel Roy’s newest collection, featuring double-faced dresses and jackets in fabulous colors that go from day to dinner with ease. Finally, ISSA dresses— made even more popular by Kate Middleton—are as chic as they are feminine...just like Kate!

How can I get more mileage out of my outerwear?

In Pittsburgh, the need for layering is especially important. Luckily, this season brings many warm coat options that are still lightweight, sleek and feminine, and can be worn over chunkier sweaters (or not). When you’re not sure what the weather has in store, try a coat from Barbour, whose equestrianinspired designs are at home in town or country. Look for our Barbour tent at the Family House Polo Match in September. If you miss the event, just

stop in at either store and ask to see the zip-in vest: it’s a great option to help extend your Barbour season! We are focused on finding you outerwear that’s fresh and different. Look for great waterproof coats from Jane Post, and the ultimate Urban Parka from SAM. Also, fur continues to be chic and sporty in textured vests, and luxe but practical in super-light carcoats that reverse to rainwear. The quality pieces always have a modern twist, and offer multiple layers for your changing needs. If you buy only one coat this season, make sure it’s a shaped, three-quarter length, mid-weight style that’s versatile enough in color and texture to layer with the rest of your clothing.

What are you most excited about this season?

Do I have to pick just one thing? Sorry, but it’s too difficult! We have added so much new women’s product for fall that we’ve dedicated a photo spread in this magazine to it, just to whet your appetite! We also have more events slated than ever before. On our schedule are trunk shows from Autumn Cashmere, Nina McLemore, Lafayette 148 New York, Jane Post, Escada, St. John, Peggy Jennings, Alta Moda… and so much more! Make sure to let us know (via phone, email, or during your next visit) what you’re looking for, so that we can keep you in the know when new fashions from your favorite designers arrive.

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INSIDER SECRETS

TO SUCCESSFUL PARKING IN DOWNTOWN PITTSBURGH by Tom Michael, president of Larrimor’s, with contributions from Merrill Stabile, president of ALCO Parking Corporation

E’VE ALL HAD THIS EXPERIENCE.

You’re heading into

Downtown Pittsburgh for lunch with friends and a carefree afternoon of shopping in the most livable

city in the country. But the broad smile on your face is soon replaced by a steely frown as you find parking garage after parking garage “FILLED” or posted with the dreaded “LEASES ONLY” sign. The demand for parking is ever-present, and here to stay, because we have a dynamic and growing Downtown Pittsburgh. Our city is filled to abundance with vibrant cultural, sports and shopping opportunities, a growing residential presence, and more and more business, corporate and riverfront development. No wonder people want to come to Downtown in greater numbers than ever before! That is a trend that we should welcome and encourage—now and in the future. (continued)

TOP 4 INSIDER SECRETS TO DOWNTOWN PARKING

Shop at Larrimor’s We validate customer parking for time spent in our downtown store. So the simple statement that “I’m going to Larrimor’s” at 3PNC Plaza or Mellon Square garages will always elicit a knowing smile from the parking attendant patrolling the filled-to-capacity structure. With the wave of a hand, you will be ushered to a coveted parking space. Check out Larrimors.com (“Locations” tab) for the simple instructions.

Download the FREE ParkPGH App With this efficient tool in hand, you can easily identify which garages in the Cultural District have “availability,” are “approaching capacity,” or have “few spots available.” And with one simple click on the garage of choice, view its precise location on the map of Downtown Pittsburgh AND rates for parking. Plus, it’s only going to get better as future apps expand to include more garages outside the Cultural District and become even more high tech (imagine pre-paying your parking spot and swiping a barcode on your smart phone for immediate garage entry). For more info, visit ParkPGH.org.

Market Square’s Valet Parking Turn onto Market Street from Fifth Avenue, make a quick right and pull up to the well-marked valet stand in Market Square manned Monday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to midnight. Here’s how it works (at presstime): Everyone pays $5 up front. Visit any Market Square restaurant and they’ll validate your ticket so that no further payment is needed. If you go outside of the Square (to another restaurant, a ballgame, the Arts Festival or other venue of your choice), you pay only $2 more when you pick up your keys. Tri-State Valet attendants park your car in the well-lit, secure environment of the 3rd Street Garage and don’t leave until you return.

Call PDP To Reserve Your Parking Space With just a phone call—or a mouse-click—you can reserve your Downtown parking space in any of the 11 participating garages. Simply call Pittsburgh Downtown Partnership at 412.566.4190 or visit downtownpittsburgh.com/gettingaround/parking/reservation. A minimum 24-hour advance notice is required and a few restrictions apply (most notably, this courtesy program is only offered Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.).

But to realize our city’s full potential, one must understand the

prime times of Monday to Friday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., there is

business realities associated with that desire. The collateral need

often an EXCESS of parking spots thereafter—a paradox which

for accessible parking is an obvious consideration. Ironically, in

is obviously good for you, but costly for the garage owner. We

a city that services the daily needs of 130,000 downtown work-

recommend visiting downtown late afternoon and weekends

ers with approximately 20,000 parking spaces, the business of

when the parking is more plentiful and economical. Go shop-

providing parking to those customers and constituents is actu-

ping at 3 or 4 p.m. and have dinner afterwards!

ally a low-margin and relatively unattractive business venture for

What can you do you make your next parking adventure a more pleasant experience?

...the simple statement that “I’m going to Larrimor’s” at 3 PNC Plaza or Mellon Square garages will always elicit a knowing smile from the parking attendant...

As longtime members of the Executive Committee of Pittsburgh Downtown Partnership (PDP), we have closely studied this situation for years. The PDP works together with residents, businesses and civic organizations to foster economic vitality and improve Downtown life. As proud ambassadors and conscientious advo-

Pittsburgh developers. Startup and building costs for con-

cates of the City of Pittsburgh, our collective goal is to see that

structing and managing these facilities are significant and,

everyone’s visit to our great city not only meets, but exceeds, their

without government subsidies, it is a highly risky enterprise.

needs and expectations…and that begins with parking.

Change can occur, but only when taxpayers begin to demand

So have hope, take note and arm yourself with these top four

more affordable and accessible infrastructures in the cities where

insider secrets to parking karma in Pittsburgh. Then, don’t be

they work, live and play.

bashful; pass them on!

While you may encounter a lack of parking spaces during the

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NOTHING GENERIC ABOUT THIS ATTORNEY (EXCEPT HIS CLIENTS) New K&L Gates partner Andrew Kozusko launches the firm’s generic drug practice—artfully.

by Ann Trondle-Price

firms, but now big firms like ours are seeing that there’s as much opportunity representing generics as there is with the big pharmaceutical brands—maybe more.” Formerly head of patent litigation for Mylan North America, Kozusko brings an in-house perspective to his new employers that he believes will help grow the practice. Plus, he believes generics may be that rare recession-proof product. “Generics are hot. A lot of states have mandatory substitution laws and eventually they all will. These laws are favorable to generics and, as the industry consolidates, investors are becoming very interested. If you’re in an acquisitive mood, generics may be a good way to go.” One of his biggest clients, Lupin, is a good example of the solid generics companies he’s been seeing—well–managed, growing and boasting phenomenal stock performance. “Generics products are also evolving into big pharma companies as PHOTO: ARCHIE CARPENTER

they launch their own brands. So while they made their name in generics, they’re now competing with big pharma.” All good news for the man whose job it is to build the K&L Gates pharma portfolio. Spending time overseas, particularly in India where many generics are headquartered, is one way he’s accomplishing that.

in his new

“I love India,” he says with genuine feeling. “In particular, I

office at K&L Gates, although the space still feels like a

spend a lot of time in Mumbai, and while it has its own beautiful

work in progress. On one shelf, the iconic British WWII

culture, it still reminds me somewhat of England. It retains

propaganda poster beseeches all who enter to “Keep Calm and

that British feel, particularly in its hotels, where you can get

Carry On.” On another, a map of his beloved Nantucket that will

unparalleled service in a fabulous hotel for $300 a night.”

NDREW

KOZUSKO

LOOKS VERY MUCH AT HOME

cover almost the entire wall. Both are still waiting to be hung.

Kozusko’s delight for things well crafted and beautifully pre-

But Kozusko has more pressing matters: namely, managing

sented pops up often in conversation. His tailored blazer, pocket

K&L Gates’ new generic pharmaceutical practice. Although the

square and designer shoes immediately give him away as a man

practice just launched in April, the growth of the generic drug

who cares about style. But this self-proclaimed “clothes hound”

market has him already moving at top speed. “Generics is an

is most passionate about food and wine. He’s also proud of

exciting practice area,” he explains. “It started off with the smaller

working his way onto some very exclusive mailing lists after

waiting, in some cases, more than 10 years. “Marcassin and Sine Qua Non are two wineries I worked very hard to crack,” he

side, that love of art and beauty.” Kozusko is also a donor to WQED-FM and the Pittsburgh Symphony. “I truly believe that for a smaller city, we have a very

says with a smile. His appreciation of artisanship also extends to his collection of

rich arts community,” he says. His one regret is that the film com-

Lionel trains, which number in the hundreds. “My 5-year-old son

munity isn’t more robust. “We don’t get a lot of the great films

Roman and I collect them,” he says. “Right now, we’re having a

that are being made today,” he laments. “We get the big block-

layout built at home so we can run the trains all year round.” In

busters, but not the great indie and foreign films that other cities

the past, Kozusko’s collections have also included collector cars,

do. It’s too bad.”

although now he’s down to the M3 he currently drives. “I had a pristine Porsche 911 that I traded for the M3. I’m still looking for that next car,” he laughs. As both an attorney with a focus on pharmaceuticals and a collector with an eye for detail, one might wonder how Kozusko developed such a left-brain/ right-brain orientation. “I’ve always been a somewhat

“[Generics] started off with the smaller firms, but now big firms are seeing that there’s as much opportunity representing generics as there is with the big pharmaceutical brands—maybe more.”

split personality,” he explains. “At Grove City College, I earned

Today however, from K&L Gates downtown, Kozusko is

degrees in both English and molecular biology.” (He’s currently

focused on raising the curtain on generics. His view on where he

involved in the $80 million re-do of the campus’s scientific infra-

wants to take the practice is clear, like the view out his window.

structure as a trustee of the college.) “But I still have that other

A thing of beauty, even. Which suits him to perfection.

We’ve been here for three quarters of a century. Come and see why.

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FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

styles represent a new genre of sportcoat that blurs the boundary between sportswear and tailored clothing. They can be dressed up with a tie or worn casually with jeans: comfort, class and cool, all in one item!

My expensive topcoat is looking dated. Should I have it altered?

This season’s pant styles are narrower than they used to be: not tight but definitely more fitted (and no longer down to the floor). For fall 2012, we love five-pocket pants in cottons, wools and wool blends. When it comes to jeans, fit is all-important. If your closet is full of droopy denim, let us show you how great you can look in jeans that actually fit.

If I buy only one item this season, what should it be?

We love refined soft sportcoats in wool blends and cashmeres (both solids and subtle patterns) as well as the quintessential knit blazer. These

With global warming, do I really need sweaters?

Although chunky sweaters are very much in style, light and medium weights are also trending, and these have little to do with the weather. A modern or retroinspired cardigan, either button or zip-front, can often replace a jacket or sportcoat. Today’s trimmeddown, fine gauge knits also work well underneath sportcoats since they breathe comfortably—good news for guys who tend to run hot. Cashmeres, merinos and new blends in great colors mean lots of strong sweater options this season.

What footwear do I need for fall?

The wrong pair of shoes can instantly ruin an outfit, so don’t forget to consider your footwear as carefully as your clothes. One must-have for fall 2012 is a pair of slightly chunky oxfords in suede or burnished leather, to add a bit of character. Think updated wingtips that are substantial enough to wear with jeans and can also lend an English sensibility to a suit. In addition, there are tons of great boot options, from rugged contemporary styles to beautiful polished dress versions, that add instant personality to your look.

CANALI

I haven’t lost weight but my pants seem baggy. What’s up with that?

Probably not. There’s only so much you can change with alterations, and yesterday’s long billowy coats (topcoats and trenches) are totally OUT in 2012. So give them away to someone in need and buy a new shorter, trimmer-fit overcoat or raincoat. From knee-length on up is the modern way to wear outerwear this season.

We salute Lee Oleinick named to Barron’s Top 1,000 Financial Advisors For leading in a world that has changed. For perfecting the art of listening. For proactively responding to clients’ needs. For building strong relationships. We applaud Lee Oleinick and his most significant accomplishment—winning clients’ trust. Advice you can trust starts with a conversation.

Lee Oleinick Senior Vice President–Investments 412-665-9914 800-458-2224 lee.oleinick@ubs.com Walnut Wealth Management UBS Financial Services Inc. 5600 Walnut Street Pittsburgh, PA 15232 ubs.com/team/walnut

We will not rest

As a firm providing wealth management services to clients in the U.S., we offer both investment advisory services and brokerage accounts. Advisory services and brokerage services are separate and distinct, differ in material ways and are governed by different laws and separate contracts. It is important that clients understand the ways in which we conduct business and that they carefully read the agreements and disclosures that we provide to them about the products or services we offer. For more information clients should speak with their Financial Advisor or visit our website at ubs.com/guidetofees UBS Financial Services and its affiliates do not provide legal or tax advice. Clients should consult with their legal and tax advisors regarding their personal circumstances. ©UBS 2012. All rights reserved. UBS Financial Services Inc. is a subsidiary of UBS AG. Member SIPC. 1.32_Ad_7.5x9.75_OJ0613_OleL

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DESSERT TASTING FOR A CAUSE

There has been no greater “touchdown moment” than what we witnessed at the recent Dessert Tasting for a Cause, hosted by Larrimor’s on April 16.Guests mingled with former Pitt Panthers teammates and NFL veterans Torrie Cox, Kris Wilson and Lousaka Polite, swayed to the smooth sounds of The Alton Merril Trio and savored a feast of desserts.The sweet evening benefited three foundations—The Cox MVPs Foundation, The Kris Wilson Foundation, and The Polite Way Foundation—whose visionary efforts on behalf of at-risk youth and single mothers garnered countless high fives among our stylish gathering of loyal and appreciative fans. Don’t miss out on exciting future events! Give your email address to your sales associate and we’ll be certain to add you to our VIP invitation list.

HELPING WOMEN HELPS THE WORLD PHOTOS: ARCHIE CARPENTER

Giving back to the community is, and always has been, a proud Larrimor’s tradition. For more than 70 years, we have celebrated our passion for Pittsburgh by showcasing those who share a commitment to our city and our neighbors in need. On May 31, Larrimor’s opened its own home to Bethlehem Haven’s Helping Women Helps the World lecture series—a distinct program that brings together dynamic women from around the region and supports BH’s mission to provide a continuum of care for homeless women that leads toward self-sufficiency. Among a capacity crowd, Demetria Boccella (Utopia) moderated a distinguished panel of fashionable entrepreneurs including Susan Farber (Susan Farber Collections), Kiya Tomlin (Kiya Tomlin Designs), Kelly Simpson-Scupelli (Kelly Lane Design), Ava DeMarco (Littlearth) and Susan Gregg Kroger (ModCloth). These women not only share a mutual passion for fashion, but also a passionate desire to make a difference in the world through their success.We applaud each woman for following her dream, and the tireless work of Bethlehem Haven for enabling so many others to reach that goal. Don’t miss out on exciting future events! Give your email address to your sales associate and we’ll be certain to add you to our VIP invitation list.

TRUNK SHOW • THURSDAY OCTOBER 1 1 • ONE PNC PLAZA

fit

SLIMMING DOWN Shoulders: Narrower by about an inch, they are less padded and more natural than they once were.

Lapels: Narrow is more modern (but peak lapels are fashion forward, said to have “attitude”).

Chest: Less padded than it used to be, since it’s now made with lighter-weight canvases and interlinings.

A TRIMMED-DOWN SUIT MEANS A TRIMMER-LOOKING YOU!

Button Stance: Lower, with two buttons more fashionable than three. Sleeves: Should hit at or slightly above the

wrist to show some shirt cuff (about a quarter to a half inch). Sleeves below the wrist are much too long!

Jacket Length: At least an inch shorter than five

years ago (now 30 inches long on a size 40 regular).

THE EVOLUTION Trousers: Much slimmer than they were. Flat-fronts

are dominant over pleats, but both are acceptable as long as the pant is not too billowy. Most makers have shortened the thigh and the rise measurements by about an inch, the knee by a half inch.

You might not have noticed much difference from one year to the next, but look back five years and the change in men’s suits is blatant! Gone are the broad padded shoulders and loose billowy trousers. No more wide lapels or padded chests. Today’s suits are neither tight nor restrictive, but they skim the body in a way that’s flattering to all physiques. A new slimmer suit can make you look your best. Give it a try!

Break: Modern trousers should have either no break or a slight break that hits mid-shin. The hem should just cover the top of the shoelaces. If you’re tripping on your trouser bottoms, they are clearly dated! Cuffs: Flat-front pants do not take cuffs; cuffs are optional but not necessary with pleated trousers.

P E O P L E R E A L LY D O V I S I T P I T T S B U R G H BY CRAIG DAVIS PRESIDENT & CEO OF VISITPITTSBURGH

HREE RIVERS .

T WO

INCLINES .

O NE

REINVENTED CITY.

No wonder National Geographic Traveler named Pittsburgh among the best places in the world to experience in 2012.

VisitPittsburgh proclaiming that “Tourism Matters,” you know what we’re talking about. According to VisitPittsburgh surveys, nearly 70 percent of our visitors stay for two or more nights, providing ample time to enjoy

At VisitPittsburgh, we are proud of these bragging rights. We

renowned Pittsburgh attractions. And there are plenty of attrac-

should be. After all, we’re the official tourism promotion agency

tions to enjoy, because Pittsburgh is on the map when it comes

for Pittsburgh and Allegheny County—and our job is to market

to arts and culture.

Pittsburgh to the world. It’s a job that we love, especially when we read positive coverage like this:

Our city’s rich legacy of community investment and involvement from well-known industrial and corporate leaders has

“On all counts, the Steel City’s transformation over the past

built the foundation of the city's rich cultural environment.

long concluded, this western Pennsylvania city changed jobs and

Think Carnegie, Mellon, Heinz, Frick, Scaife, Benedum, Phipps,

reclaimed major assets: a natural setting that rivals Lisbon

Hillman and a host of others.

and San Francisco, a wealth of fine art and architecture, and a

Visitors tell us they come to Pittsburgh specifically for the rich

quirky sense of humor,” writes the National Geographic Traveler.

cultural offerings like The Andy Warhol Museum, Duquesne

Yes, indeed. Pittsburgh is included amongst the “Best in the

Incline, Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens, and the

World” with the likes of Sonoma County, Calif., and London. Take

Pittsburgh Symphony Orchestra. According to our surveys, 35

that Diamond Jubilee!

percent of visitors come specifically because of our cultural

It is incredibly exciting to be among 20 destinations worldwide

amenities.

selected for this ‘Best Of’ list. Those of us who reside here know

We love promoting the world-class entertainment found in

well that the city’s amazing amenities combine to create a

Pittsburgh’s Cultural District, the 14-block area downtown that

tremendously desirable place to live, work and visit. And visitors are indeed coming to Pittsburgh. By the millions. In fact, over 10 million overnight trips are taken in the Greater Pittsburgh region every year. No wonder. Pittsburgh is home to championship sports teams, world-

These visitors spend big money, too. Visitor spending in Allegheny County amounted to $4.8 billion in 2010...

class attractions and enviable cultural amenities. These visitors spend big money, too. Visitor spending in Allegheny County amounted to $4.8 billion in 2010, according to

dazzles with creative urban energy and charm. Thanks to the Pittsburgh Cultural Trust, more than 2,300 performances are offered each year in the Cultural District.

Tourism Economics Inc., a tourism consulting firm. This breaks

And, not surprisingly, visitors like to shop. In fact, nearly a

down to $1.5 billion spent on transportation, $993 million spent

quarter of our visitors say they come specifically to shop. They

on food and beverage, $894 million on recreation, $793 million

spend a lot of money, too, with 22 percent of our visitors indi-

on retail and $611 million on lodging. So when you hear

cating that they have an income over $100,000. More than 13

PHOTO: COURTESY OF VISITPITTSBURGH

percent of visitors report that they spend more than $500 while

we promote unparalleled family attractions, including the Pitts-

shopping in the Pittsburgh area. Of course, quality shops such

burgh Zoo & PPG Aquarium, National Aviary, Kennywood Park,

as Larrimor’s make shopping experiences memorable.

Sandcastle, Carnegie Science Center, Children’s Museum of

Visitors appreciate history, as indicated by the 33 percent of

Pittsburgh and the Gateway Clipper fleet. It’s an easy sell.

our visitors who say they are attracted to the region’s historical

With one state park, four major city parks and 22 miles of river-

landmarks. They love Pittsburgh’s storied past as showcased

front trails, it’s no surprise that nearly a third of our visitors say

inside one-of-kind attractions such as the Senator John Heinz

they visit a city park or trail. It’s a perfect fit for VisitPittsburgh’s

History Center, Frick Art & Historical Center and Nationality

“Get Healthy in Pittsburgh” campaign to encourage visitors to let

Rooms at the University of Pittsburgh. Steel heritage tours

the city be their gym. And, thanks to the soon-to-be-complete

offered by Rivers of Steel take visitors back in time with hard hat

Great Allegheny Passage, which will connect Pittsburgh to

tours of the former U.S. Steel Homestead Works and trail rides

Washington, D.C., the workout just got a little more intense!

of Pittsburgh’s industrial heritage. We also love promoting Pittsburgh as a great destination for families, because we know that one-third of our visitors travel to Pittsburgh with children. We say “Pittsburgh Is Kidsburgh,” as

With everything that Pittsburgh has going for it, it’s no surprise that visitors want to come back. In fact, 90 percent say they are likely to visit again. And that’s good news for everyone.

Hand Made in Chicago

SERGIO KURHAJEC WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY STYLING BY

Why choose

CUSTOM? The benefits of a timeless sartorial tradition.

Quite simply...

The best thing about custom is that it’s made just for you.

The modern suit as we know it was born in mid-19th century England. A style of men’s clothing evolved that interwove influences from the landed gentry, the military, surgeons, sports and the Industrial Revolution. Ever since, gentlemen the world over have sought to perfect it.

Individual style and comfort. Unsurpassed fit. Today, more and more men are choosing custom.

A custom suit is not only the ultimate expression of a man’s individual taste and style; it also allows superior comfort and, of course, fit. Custom clothing has increasingly grown in popularity in recent years. Our forebears would be envious of the fabric, model and detailing options available today!

CHANGE AS LITTLE AS YOU WANT... If you’re a 40 Regular and you just want a slightly different colored fabric.

“Most men try custom for the vast choice of fabrics. Then they discover all the other wonderful subtleties.” menswear merchant Russ Mitchell

CHANGE AS MUCH AS YOU WANT... fabric

/ -$ 'Ĺż*+/$*).Ĺż$) '0 Ĺż2**'.Ĺż*!Ĺż varying weights and weaves, cashmeres, flannels, linens, cottons and highly technical new performance fibers. Add to that a dizzying array of patterns, pinstripes and color shades and you can create something that is truly your own.

Or, if youâ€™re difficult to fit and want a flannel double-breasted suit with aubergine lining, patch pockets, horn buttons and two pairs of pants. model

Jacket length, pant cut, button stance, lapel width, vents, pleats, pocket style, cuffs... these are some of the many style features you can customize. Some of the design decisions you will get to make and enjoy are:

PANT

Ä•ĹżĹż ' / Ĺż*-ĹżĂ´Ĺż /ÄŚ!-*)/ÄšĹż Ä•ĹżĹż 0ĂŻĹżĹż*-Ĺż)*Ĺż 0ĂŻĹżÄš Ä•ĹżĹż )"/#Ä‘Ĺż # - Ĺż/*Ĺż - &Äš Ä•ĹżĹż "Ĺż*+ )$)"Ä‘Ĺż *2Ĺż.'$(Ĺż*-Ĺż2$ Äš

lining

From solid to paisley and subtle to wacky, a custom lining gives you the opportunity to add a splash of color or a surprise that can be your own little secret.

Undeniably, the greatest draw of custom is the extraordinary variety of choices available in fabric. While stores can only buy and hang a limited amount of ready-to-wear options, the fabric selection in custom is in the thousands!

buttons JACKET

Ä•ĹżĹż * 'Ä‘Ĺż - $/$*) 'Ĺż*-Ĺż Ĺż new slimmer silhouette? Ä•ĹżĹż $)"' ÄŚ - ./ Ĺż1.Ä?Ĺż *0 ' ÄŚ breasted Ä•ĹżĹż 0//*)Ĺż./ ) Ä‘ĹżĂ˝Ĺż*-ĹżĂžÄšĹż *2Ĺż#$"#Äš Ä•ĹżĹż + '.Ä‘Ĺż *2Ĺż2$ ÄšĹż */ # Äš Ä•ĹżĹż * & /Ĺż./4' Ä•ĹżĹż )/Ĺż./4' Ä•ĹżĹż & /Ĺż' )"/# Ä•ĹżĹż ' 1 Ä‘Ĺż )"/#ÄšĹż *-&$)"Ĺż 0//*).Äš

Down the front or at your wrists? Two or three, gold or silver, blue or bone? Buttons are another fun way to make a suit uniquely yours.

CUSTOM 101: THE SHIRT fabric

Contrary to what you may have heard, custom is not just for dress shirts. A couple of custom sport shirts are fabulous go-to pieces for your casual wardrobe as well. Dressy or casual, the variety of colors and patterns can be a bit overwhelming, but you can create stunning signature looks that could never be achieved off-the.# '!ďſ ' 4ſ2$/#ſ/# ſ / $'.ďſ 1 ſ some fun!

Our most popular custom item is the custom shirt. Try one and see why so many say that “once you go custom, you never go back.” collar

Whether you prefer straight, spread, curve point, cutaway, band collar or any other style, you’ll be amazed how something as simple as a change in collar can customize your look.

common MYTHS about custom: Custom is only for the difficult to fit.

While custom tailoring ensures men of every body type the best possible fit, custom is every bit as sought-after by men who can readily wear off-the-rack clothing. They choose it for the signature look they can create as well as for the extensive fabric selection.

Custom takes forever.

cuffs

Aside from the classic straight two-button cuff, there are many cuff options to choose from to give your shirt that certain je ne sais quoi, including the one-button round cuff,

pockets

' $)Ĺż+* & /Ä?Ĺż 0//*)Ĺż+* & /Ä?Ĺż Square pocket. Or no pocket. Do you like the front smooth or do you prefer a place for your glasses?

buttons

An unexpected button color, material or design is another great detail to work (or play) with.

monogram

the one-button angle cuff and of course, the French cuff... which also comes in several variations!

A monogram is the ultimate way to make a shirt uniquely yours. Simple yet elegant, pick a style that ranges from the traditional to the very modern. And choose from many placement options, too!

*/Ĺż /Ĺż ''Ä?Ĺż ) Ĺż )Ĺż 3+ -$ ) tailor has taken and recorded all of your measurements, they are stored just for you. You simply pick out your details and your suit should be ready $)ĹżĂ˝Ĺż/*ĹżÄ Ĺż2 &.Ä?

Custom is costprohibitive. With the

rising popularity of custom clothing, designers are stocking larger libraries of fabric and details and are equipped with several made-to-measure models as starting points. This has brought down costs. You no longer have to be a CEO (or royalty) to wear it!

By William Kissel

The Merits of

MADE TO MEA

_____________________________________ Any man who’s bought an off-the-rack suit in the past half century probably thinks that what you see on the sales floor is what you get. If the fit, fabric or color you want isn’t in stock, you’re out of luck. Not so fast. Thanks to the rapidly growing concept of made to measure, top fashion brands like Zegna, Isaia, Samuelsohn, Canali, Kiton and Brioni have slowly transformed the once-bland process of buying a business suit (or sportcoat) into a very personal expression of a man’s good taste and sense of style. Want a broken pinstripe on a medium-blue super 150s wool, or a windowpane check in a soft brown cashmere/silk blend? Consider it done. Looking for that hard-to-find trimcut, double-breasted jacket and want to customize it with a lining in your wife’s favorite shade of lavender? It’s yours simply for the asking. Just a few decades ago, the only way to have a suit made your way was to visit a custom tailor, a process that required you to dig deep into your wallet, be patient enough to sit through multiple fittings, and then wait the required six month production time. But after Ermenegildo Zegna became inspired by a concept the Japanese had developed in the early 1970s, he and other luxury suit makers found a way to speed up the

process and drastically lower the cost. Made to measure also allows stores to offer much more product than what fits on the sales floor. “When my father first started selling Zegna in Japan, he was quite surprised to see the small amount of real estate they had for retail,” explains Gildo Zegna, group chief executive at the family-owned Ermenegildo Zegna brand. “Back then our collection was very big, and he thought to himself, ‘How can I show it all?’ He found the Japanese had a clever system where they would show all the fabric swatches, like in a showroom, and let the customer pick the pattern and style. Within a few weeks the jacket was made to order for him. My father thought, ‘If the Japanese can make this work, why can’t we?’” A hybrid form of custom suit making, made to measure cuts out the more costly practice of creating a separate pattern for every customer from scratch (as a bespoke tailor would do). Made-to-measure suits are produced from a pre-existing pattern that is later

_____________________________________ 52

SURE

_____________________________________ altered at the factory to meet your own physical ing, depending on the fabric) and your personal requirements. “The difference in quality between cus- sense of style. tom and made to measure is maybe none,” offers one In the past, only hard-to-fit men—those with sloping luxury suit maker. “The only difference is how you get shoulders, curved backs, protruding abdomens or through the process.” In the case of made to measure, extremely large or small bodies—took advantage of you simply try on a jacket at these suit making services. Today the store that’s close to your it’s all about choice. “Superior fit is size and style preference, and certainly a big factor. But I’d say the suit maker adjusts the the larger factor is men wanting to pattern for a more precise fit. be different and own something Along the way you choose unique,” explains Arnold the fabric (from literally Silverstone, creative director at thousands of choices beyond Samuelsohn. “It’s a particularly those offered ready-made at great service for guys who are the store) as well as the super fit and require more than details—from working or the standard 6-inch drop found on FASTER THAN YOU’D THINK... non-working button holes, off-the-rack clothing,” he says. “A Because made to measure cuts center or side vents, and the guy might be a 42 Regular on top out the practice of creating a number of pleats (or no but waist-wise he’s a 32, which is a separate pattern for every pleats) on your trousers, to 10-inch drop. You won’t find that customer from scratch, suits are the number, size and shape of combination off the rack.” produced from a pre-existing the pockets and even the There’s one more reason for pattern that is later altered at the color of the interior lining. choosing made to measure: factory to meet your own Need an extra interior pocket “Clothes are very expensive and physical requirements. to house your cigarettes or most men who spend $1,000 or cell phone? You’ve got it. more on a suit want it to last from Want mother of pearl or titafive to seven years,” explains one nium buttons? They’re yours. Then, a mere four to six suit maker. “If a guy is going to live with it that long, weeks later, you have a suit that fits both your budget it better have all the details he loves. And the best (only about 20 percent more than off-the-rack pricway to ensure that is to create it himself.”

_____________________________________ 53

412-561-4000

www.galleriapgh.com

Ann Taylor Anthropologie Aurora’s Fine Jewelry Bravo! Cucina Italiana Caché Carmike Galleria Cinemas Chico’s Charming Charlie Coldwater Creek Crabtree & Evelyn Dragonfire Japanese Steakhouse Footloose & Footloose Etc.

Godiva Chocolatier Gymboree Gymboree Play & Music H. Baskin Clothier Houlihan’s Janie & Jack Jernigan’s Tobacco Village Jezebel Larrimor’s Learning Express Mark Pi’s China Gate Mitchell’s Fish Market Panera Bread

A Pea in a Pod Pottery Barn Kids Restoration Hardware Signatures Soma Intimates Starbucks Coffee Talbots/Petites/Woman/Shoes Today’s Tiffany Lamp Co. Track ’n Trail Trombino Piano and Organ Tutto Bella Williams-Sonoma

£xääÊ7>Ã }Ì Ê, >`ÊÊÊÊÊÊUÊÊÊÊÊÊ* ÌÌÃLÕÀ} ]Ê* Ê£xÓÓnÊÊÊÊÊÊUÊÊÊÊÊÊÊ{£Ó xÈ£ {äää

For that finishing touch. Shoes in warm premium leather, hand - f i n i s he d with unsurpasse d atte n tio n to d e ta il. M ade in the U.S . A .

TRUNK SHOW

THURSDAY & FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 13 & 14: ONE PNC PLAZA SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 15: GALLERIA

Days are getting shorter. Waves rougher. And that increasing nip in the air! As summer sun gives way to autumn leaves, here are some ways to adapt... with style.

A CHANGE OF

SEASONS

PHOTOGRAPHY HAIR & MAKEUP STYLING

SERGIO KURHAJEC CLAIRE BAYLEY WENDY MCNETT

A CHANGE OF

SEA SONS

Texture. Drawn from nature

itself, fallâ€™s fibers are a bit wild and roughly hewn: thick knits, coarse wools and cottons, heavy twills...

A CHANGE OF

SEA SONS

Layers. Thereâ€™s no more

stylish or practical way to stay warm than with a few versatile layering pieces. Pile on or peel off as needed!

A CHANGE OF

SEA SONS

Warmth! Chunky cables, soft suedes and cashmeres, luxurious leathers, fur trim. And donâ€™t forget a cozy scarf or two...

f you’re looking for something light to eat, few things satisfy like sushi. With properties that promote better memory and overall well-being, it’s long been one of the staples of the East. But over the last two decades, Americans have increasingly wanted to make it for themselves. The good news is, it’s not as hard as you may think—but it will require patience. Wing Lam, owner and head chef of Zen Sushi, says making sushi rolls at home comes down to two things: practice and creativity. “It’s like anything: keep at it and [the finished product] will continue to get better,” he says, “…as long as you buy good rice!” Beyond that essential ingredient is seaweed, which forms the outside of the wrap, and then whatever you choose to put inside. It’s best to use rice that’s short and thin, mixed with vinegar, salt and sugar. To save time, Lam suggests buying the pre-made rice mix at your local Asian market (or order online at asianfoodgrocer.com). Now for the seaweed. Ever wonder how chefs are able to wrap it so perfectly around the rice? Using a bamboo mat is their clever secret. Decide how thick you prefer your sushi rolls to be and choose your mat accordingly: the thicker the individual bamboo sticks that make up the mat, the thicker the roll will be. Cut one-half to twothirds of a sheet of your purchased seaweed, place it in the center of the bamboo mat, and cover all except the outer edges of the seaweed with rice. Now comes the creativity. You can put anything

STYLE IS AS MUCH A PART OF SUSHI AS SUBSTANCE.

inside a sushi roll. However, there are certain standbys to consider. The California roll is among the most popular, containing crabmeat, cucumber, avocado and carrot. The Philadelphia roll highlights salmon and cream cheese, sometimes along with avocado or cucumber. Or make up your own! Once you’ve decided, make sure to distribute the ingredients evenly over the width of the seaweed; otherwise, when you cut the roll, some pieces may not contain any filling. Then lift the edge of the bamboo mat and begin to push it forward, rolling the contents within. Slowly open the mat and slice your finished roll into individual sushi pieces. Even once you’ve created your roll, the product still isn’t finished. You’ll notice many sushi establishments don’t just throw them on the plate; style is almost as much a part of sushi as substance. Try artfully drizzling your chosen sauce over the plate in an eyecatching design, or lining up individual sushi pieces to form a pattern. In addition, consider the serving plates you use: smaller ones tend to accentuate the sushi’s own beauty. You can even perfect your at-home sushi experience right down to the music. Choose soft melodies to enhance the already relaxing atmosphere which goes along with eating a light and healthful meal. “Making sushi takes skill, but don’t be afraid to try different things,” Lam emphasizes. “Some of the best flavor combinations come from experimentation.”

ULTRAPRO

food

YOU DON’T HAVE TO EAT OUT TO EAT SUSHI. BY ERIC BUTTERMAN

bigburrito.com

icons

THE MARILYN

MYSTIQUE My first on-screen crush was Natalie Wood in

Rebel Without a Cause. I was 16. Wood’s soulful eyes and short-sleeved angora sweaters were magical, though the film was already 30 years old. Marilyn Monroe, on the other hand, wasn’t on my radar. There was the Elton John song, and every cartoon I grew up with did a riff parodying the flying white skirt scene in The Seven Year Itch. I knew she’d been in Playboy, and that was kind of hot. But I was more interested in the current crop of celebrities undressing in my dad’s magazines: Victoria Principal, Barbi Benton, Kim Basinger. Monroe has outlasted and outshined them all, despite having died 50 years ago in August. Last year witnessed My Week With Marilyn (starring Michelle Williams as Monroe), artist Seward Johnson’s 26-foottall cartoony homage, Forever Marilyn, in Chicago (relocated to Palm Springs in May), and a special bottling of the very popular Marilyn Merlot wine, celebrating its own 25th Anniversary. The NBC show Smash chronicles the lives of theater actors, writers and pro-

ducers as they work to bring a Marilyn-themed musical to Broadway. Monroe’s image also graced this year’s poster for the 65th anniversary of the Cannes Film Festival and the cover of Vanity Fair, promoting the release of previously unpublished nudes by photographer Lawrence Schiller. The other blonde bombshells of the 1950s—Jayne Mansfield, Mamie Van Doren, Sheree North and so on—haven’t enjoyed the same posthumous career. “When you look at photographs of her, she has this ability to express herself in so many ways,” says Donna Holder, co-founder of Marilyn Wines. “I don’t think she’s this dumb blonde at all. She was just kind of a straightforward person. A beautiful person.” Why this hold on us in 2012? Contemporaries speak of an emotionally fragile, but highly canny, comic actress. In outtakes from the Laurence Olivier film The Prince and the Showgirl (the setting for My Week With Marilyn), we see an actress repeatedly missing her lines and cues, frustrating the prim Olivier. Yet we also see her vulnerability, beauty and overwhelming desire to be appreciated. When she finally gets a scene right, she nails it. While watching these clips I finally understood the Marilyn Magic, and developed a new classic screen crush. You ache to protect her as much as to kiss her. Norma Jeane Mortenson Baker, that spunky kid from L.A., continues to attract new generations of fans. On Facebook, a quote attributed to Ella Fitzgerald has been making the rounds, in which the African-American jazz singer credits Monroe with expanding Fitzgerald’s fan base into the mainstream. Monroe’s own Facebook fan page boasts 3.2 million fans, over half of which are younger than 25. I recently joined Pinterest, a bulletin board-style website used for organizing all the web stuff you want others to see. One of my “followers” on the site, a young woman of maybe 25, had two boards (categories) I noticed immediately: “Old Hollywood” and “Movies I Love.” Guess whose platinum-haired visage graced both?

GETTY 1/MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES

50 YEARS AFTER HER DEATH, SHE'S STILL TURNING HEADS. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

CAN A MANʼS TROUSER OR JEAN, A NECESSARY BASIC ITEM OF CLOTHING, BE TRANSFORMED INTO A “MUST HAVE?” ̶HILTL THINKS SO

T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . AND JEANS

L A R R I M O R ’ S F O RU M FA L L 2 0 1 2