ISSUE 28 JAN 2021
Helmut Newton & 100 B
homage
th
irthday celebration
faddymagazine
2
F A D DY Mag
faddymag
3
4
F A D DY Mag
FOLLOW, CONTACTS Instagram: faddymagazine Instagram Showcase: faddyshowcase Facebook Page: faddymag Email: faddymagazine@gmail.com FADDY Magazine submissions: candicevalentinesolomon@gmail.com Web Page: http://faddymag.com MANAGING EDITOR Biagio De Giovanni FADDY MAGAZINE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF & ARTISTIC DIRECTOR Candice Valentine Solomon FADDY SHOWCASE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Biagio De Giovanni SVP SALES AND ADVERTISING Candice Valentine Solomon candicevalentinesolomon@gmail.com FADDY SHOWCASE REVIEW CHIEF Alessandra Galati JOURNALIST/WRITER Linda Arroz Gabrielle Smith Jamie Valentino Anneysa Gaille Rhett Butler EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ASSISTANT Helen Wilkey GRAPHIC DESIGN CONSULTING Massimo Storari GRAPHIC Giulio Cesare Silvestri & Biagio De Giovanni FADDY MAGAZINE HEADQUARTERS FERRARA - 44124 - Via Giglioli 28/A 5
Editor’s note
to dream and most of all to be free to explore both sides of myself,
When my dreams becomes a reality…
the femme and the androgynous.
I would like to venture into 2021 with deep gratitude for all the cre-
I would like to thanks Matthias Harder, the curator and director of
atives and people who I collaborate with to make Faddy Magazine
the Helmut Newton Foundation and the Helmut Newton Estate for
great.
this beautiful honor and priviledge to feature Helmut Newton´s
When I first thought about how I wanted to enter into 2021, I
photography and share his legacy with our readers.
thought to myself “Candice it needs to be special and meaningful.“
I would also like to thank Matthias and Nadine (Dinter, press officer
Then I said to myself “It must be the master and most legendary
of the HNF) for collaborating with me and trusting my vision for
photographer in the world, Helmut Newton.” Helmut Newton has
this beautiful homage and 100th birthday celebration of Helmut
been an integral part of my life’s journey since the budding age of
Newton.
12.
I hope everyone enjoys this beautiful salute to the incredible and
I remember vividly the day I purchased “Sleepless Nights” and
iconic Helmut Newton.
“White Women.” These books had a profound influence on my life
Happy 2021!
changing it for good, as if the “light switch was turned on.” I found
Wishing everyone a blessed year ahead.
“myself as a person” in his glorious images and most of all a place where I had the freedom to dream and fantasize.
Candice Solomon
I want to thank Helmut Newton for allowing the little girl inside me
Editor in Chief Faddy Magazine
C
andice Solomon a native
segment of the fashion industry. She also operates a highly suc-
New Yorker, resides in Man-
cessful e-commerce showroom servicing blue ribbon customers
hattan with her fiancé and
globally. She is Editor-in-Chief and Artistic Director for FADDY
artist Robert Santore.
Magazine and the Sr. Vice President of Sales & Advertising.
Candice is a world traveler and the
Candice Solomon has an accomplished and impeccable reputa-
quintessential Native New Yorker.
tion in the world of fashion and fashion design as;
She is a highly successful female en-
•
Creative director
trepreneur running the operations,
•
Design director
“day-to-day” and strategic business
•
Editorial strategist & executive produce
offerings in the highly competitive
•
Stylist
and ever-changing landscape of the fashion industry. She is an
•
Content creator
award winning bridal and evening wear designer noted for her in-
•
Fashion merchandizing strategist
ternational and celebrity red carpet patrons.
•
Fashion and style trendsetter and Mentor
She has been featured in People Magazine’s “Best Dressed” for
•
Branding specialist
dressing her distinguished clientele, most notably, Donna Ha-
•
Instagram & social media influencer & strategist
novers wedding dress in People Magazine and “Town And Coun-
•
LikeToKnowIt influencer
try” magazine. In addition, she was featured in multiple concurrent years in the
Candice is renown throughout the fashion industry as the “go
highly prestigious “Best Of” in New York Magazine. Candice was
to girl” for “anything and everything” from sourcing incredible
regularly featured in the New York Times, “Style and Fashion”
location for editorial photo shoots, engaging with and securing
sections, and in many global publications, both print and digital
the worlds best and acclaimed photographers, stylists, award
editions.
winning hair and makeup professionals to securing multi-million
She was the executive producer and an on-screen commenta-
dollar apparel pulls for promotions and presentation, as well
tor for the award winning documentary “7 Years Underground”
as working with an inclusive, multidimensional pool of talent as
which focused on the early years of Rock & Roll, Jazz and Blues at
models.
the famous “Café A Go Go” located in Greenwich Village in New
She is passionate and a life-long supporter of the LGBT Commu-
York City. “7 Years Underground” winning awards in film festivals
nity, Trans Lives and mentor to many talented young people who
around the world.
have become incredible successful under her guidance.
Candice is the owner of a boutique consultancy/agency in New York City focusing on optimizing strategic placement, strategy and trend management for a broad cross section and inclusive
6
F A D DY Mag
LINDA ARROZ - Writer Linda Arroz is a writer based in California. The first plus sized spokesmodel to get a contract with a major brand, Spiegel Catalog, Arroz’ career spans the evolution of her skill sets. During her three years with Spiegel, she learned how to tell stories, discovered the story behind the story, the art and craft of the pitch, and how to produce and style a TV segment. Co-author of “Affordable Couture,” published in 2012, Arroz’ experience includes working as an apparel firm marketing director, magazine editor, fashion stylist, and TV personality, producing hundreds of morning television makeovers. Her portfolio of work has always been a voice of inclusivity. Her consulting firm, Makeover Media, continues to advise clients on a range of issues and opportunities. Arroz is currently working a memoir of her years working on the assembly line at General Motors. GABRIELLE SMITH - Writer Gabrielle Smith is a freelance journalist and creative copywriter. The London College of Fashion alumna has written widely about fashion and culture, with her work published in numerous magazines such as; Harper’s Bazaar UK, House of Solo Magazine, French Fries Magazine, Overdue Magazine etc.
ANNEYSA GAILLE - Writer Anneysa Gaille is a poet, educator, and journalist based in New York City. In 2018 her chapbook, No Such Thing As, was published by the Center for the Study of Gender and Sexuality at the University of Chicago. She is currently an adjunct lecturer in the English Department of Brooklyn College. Gaille also serves as the poetry and visual arts editor for the Brooklyn Review.
JAMIE VALENTINO - Writer Colombian-born writer, Jamie Valentino is the Editor-at-large of POP Style TV, and his column Sexpert is published biweekly in PROVOKR. You can read his essays and interviews in Google Arts & Culture, W42ST Magazine, LUXE Magazine, The Queer Review, Vulkan Magazine, and more.
RHETT BUTLER - Writer Rhett Butler is a print and broadcast journalist from New York City. His work has appeared in TIME Magazine, Money Magazine, UFC Magazine, JET Magazine, Heavy.com, The Shadow League, and more. He is also a Boxing Writer’s Association of America Member, Play-By-Play Commentator, and Combat Sports Insider.
HELEN WILKEY - Assistant to Senior Fashion Editor Helen Wilkey spent her first two years out of The University of Chicago working in talent, most recently at Paradigm Talent Agency. Ready to explore realms beyond her desk, Helen looked to fashion for hands-on production experience. She is now assisting on shoots in and around New York City.
7
table of contents 266
242
Mark Seidenfeld
Personal Feature
218
8
Personal Feature
Mark Williamson Film in Noir
190
Yves Kortum
326
Miss Aniela
160
Steven Lyon
124
Mark Arbeit
Personal Feature
Jacky Wruck
Exclusive Interview
F A D DY Mag
Antoine Verglas
Exclusive Interview
10
Helmut Newton Homage & 100th Birthday celebration
152
72
George Holz
Exclusive Interview
Gero Von Boehm
Exclusive Interview
304
Gianluca Fontana
Personal Feature
286
Freddy Koh
Personal Feature 9
Helmut Newton homage & 100th Birthday celebration
This page and on Back Cover: Helmut Newton, Rue Aubriot, French Vogue, Paris 1975, © Helmut Newton Estate courtesy Helmut Newton Foundation and Center of Contemporary Art, Torun
Helmut Newton, Woman examining Man, Calvin Klein, American Vogue, St. Tropez 1975, Š Helmut Newton Estate courtesy Helmut Newton Foundation
19
Installation view of the exhibition “HELMUT NEWTON. ONE HUNDRED”, Berlin 2020, photo by Dinter/Koczorowski
52
F A D DY Mag
Installation view of the exhibition “HELMUT NEWTON. ONE HUNDRED”, Berlin 2020, photo by Dinter/Koczorowski
53
MATTHIAS HARDER
M
atthias Harder has been the curator of the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin since 2004 and also the Foundation’s director since 2019. The Newton exhibitions Us and Them; Sex and Landscapes; Helmut Newton’s Private Property; A Gun for Hire; Yellow Press; Playboy Projections; Men, War and Peace; WANTED; Fired; Sumo; Polaroids; White Women / Sleepless Nights / Big Nudes; World without Men / Archives de Nuit; Paris Berlin; Unseen; Pages from the Glossies, and Permanent Loan Collection as well as Alice Springs; Veruschka’s Self-Portraits; Pigozzi and the Paparazzi; Three Boys from Pasadena; Greg Gorman; Frank Horvat; Guy Bourdin; Saul Leiter; David Lynch; Inez & Vinoodh; Vanessa Beecroft; Cindy Sherman, and Mario Testino have been presented over the course of his engagement. He also has been teaching photography and photo history at the Free University of Berlin since 2002. Prior to his current position at the Helmut Newton Foundation, he was the director of the Kunstverein (non-for-profit art organization) in Glueckstadt, near Hamburg, for two years and a guest curator at the Photomuseum Munich for three years, where he curated the retrospective shows of German pho-
54
F A D DY Mag
tographers Herbert List and Stefan Moses, among other projects. As a freelance curator, he has organized numerous exhibitions of contemporary art and photography around the world since 1995, among others in museums and other institutions in New York, Montreal, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Tel Aviv, Kiev, Triest, Omaha, Paris, Helsinki, Stockholm, Budapest, Venice, Genova, and Rome. He also has served as an advisor and a jury member for numerous competitions. Dr Harder is a member of the German Society of Photography and a board member of the Berlin Photography Festival and the European Month of Photography in Berlin. He publishes regularly in respected international magazines, such as Art in America, Eikon, Aperture, Foam, and Photonews. He has written numerous articles for books and exhibition catalogues as well as he has edited or co-edited monographic books on Herbert List, Stefan Moses, Nelly, Max Scheler, Willy Ronis, Dirk Reinartz, Luzia Simons, Moritz Partenheimer, Vera Mercer, Stephan Erfurt, and Viktoria Binschtok in collaboration with publishers like Distanz, Taschen, Hatje Cantz, Schirmer/Mosel, Prestel, Dumont, Kehrer, Kerber, Reimer, Hirmer, Sieveking, Monacelli, and Seuil.
Matthias Harder at the Helmut Newton Foundation in the group show „Body Performance“ in front of a Vanessa Beecroft photograph, photo David von Becker
55
George Holz
74
F A D DY Mag
George Holz ”Souvenir from Berlin” Photo by June Newton ©2009
Rebecca Romjin Pink Motel Burbank ©1999 George Holz
77
GEORGE HOLZ GEORGE HOLZ EXCLUSIVE I N T E RV I E W BY ANNEYSA GAILLE
In a 1996 interview,
shot in Los Angeles or Berlin
intimately—you don’t have to
Helmut Newton says, “My
or Paris or anywhere around
go to the four corners of the
camera is a way of show-
the world—were really a re-
world, to “exotic” locations to
ing the world my kind of
flection of his upbringing and
make great pictures. Often,
universe, the world how I
point of view. Helmut would
the best things are right
would like it to be or how
often shoot very close to his
under your nose, in your own
I think it is. But it isn’t like
home. He went back to Berlin
home or backyard. I think that
that at all, of course.” Do
and did many pictures there
his pictures showed that.
you agree with this sen-
that were a reflection of his
timent? Is following this
childhood and upbringing in
ethos in photography an
pre-Nazi Germany. Of course,
act of capturing or ma-
he left, but I think he always
nipulation? Do you think
had a soft spot for the Ger-
those categories are even
many he remembered; and
apt ways of describing it?
I think his very statuesque, very powerful women were a
I do think that the camera was a kind of mirror into his life. He definitely had a point of view—a very strong point of view. To me, all his pictures—whether they were 78
F A D DY Mag
lot like those early very heroic pictures. He always would go back to familiar themes like that. He often would say that your most interesting pictures are going to be in your backyard because you know it
Helmut showed with his camera almost like a writer would with words. In a way they were like documentary pictures, but they were fantasy documentary pictures—more so than some of his contemporaries, though not necessarily those working in the same vein. For example, Guy Bourdin and Chris von Wangenheim also made amazing pictures, but
Madonna Hollywood Š1983 George Holz
79
Film in Noir by Mark Williamson
220
F A D DY Mag
Creative direction and concept by Mark Williamson @markwilliamson45 @aristmanagementmiami Photography Jaun Pablo Castro @juanpablo.castro Assisted by Sebastian Toro @iamcu4tro @someoneagency Model and muse Kasey Wamsher @kasey_aw At Elite models Miami @elitemiami
Styling by Steven Lassalle @stylebylassalle at Agency Gerard @agencygerardartists2 @confessional_showroom_miami Assisted by Stacey Jackson @flawlessly_stacy Make up by Pablo Rivera @pabloriveraart for Artist Management Miami @artistmanagementmiami Hair by Mark Williamson @markwilliamson45 for Artist Management Miami @artistmanagementmiami using @amikapro
Jacket and pants by Rossi - Shoes by Prada
Monica Bellucci, Paris 2017
Matilde Gioli, Private Sitting, Milan 2018
Miss Aniela
White witch awakening