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Here’s How Much San Antonio Congressmen Were Paid to Let Internet Providers Sell Your Browser History: “Don’t you liberals know this has already been happening for years lol just keep the fake news coming :) Facebook hasn’t been this funny in years! 8 to be exact.” — The Sourcer JMac Texas State Student to Anti-Choice Protester: ‘Get the Fuck Out of Here With This Bullshit’: “The pro-lifer is just exercising his freedom of speech. I don’t know why it is so difficult to agree to disagree. If I got in the face of everyone I didn’t agree with, I would be yelling all day. If you don’t like what he’s saying, just move on.” — Adrianna Allen Bill to Decriminalize Marijuana in Texas Clears First Big Hurdle: “It will do you no good to legalize it without FDA approval. The people that really could benefit from it still can’t use it. Hospice patients in nursing homes. Children with seizure disorders. This whole thing is so backwards.” — Rebecca Francoeur ICE Arrests 64 Undocumented Immigrants in San Antonio Over 12-Day Period: “Smh. The illegals that were arrested all had criminal histories, including drugs, DUI, domestic violence, sexual assault, aggravated assault with a weapon. Do you really want these people living in our community?” — Susan Clements

IN THIS

ISSUE Issue 17_15 ///April 12-April 18, 2017

NEWS

Trust Issues Jury in wrongful death lawsuit clears city, officer who shot and killed Marquise Jones No Show Guess whose political forums Mayor Taylor has been skipping

COVER For the past 16 years, Jason Dady’s career has paralleled’s San Antonio’s growth as a culinary city. As the face of the Jason Dady Restaurant Group, he helms a handful of beloved eateries, while also helping foster talent. He’ll put all the skills he’s learned to the test as he takes on Food Network’s Iron Chef Gauntlet on April 16. Art direction by Sarah Flood-Baumann 8

CURRENT • April 12-18, 2017 • sacurrent.com

FEATURE

Bring on the Gauntlet How Jason Dady’s career prepared him for Food Network’s Iron Chef reboot

CALENDAR

Our top picks for the week

Blurred Lines Texas’ top Republicans want Congress to smash the decades old barriers separating church and state Cash Flow Here’s how much San Antonio congressmen were paid to let internet providers sell your browser history

ARTS + CULTURE

Nostalgic Glamour Meet Daiquonne Lanier, a young designer with an old soul

ON THE

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Can It Big Hops brings back crowlers after TABC axes stupid rule

SCREENS

Ghost in the Closet Kristen Stewart plays a melancholy medium in the genre-defying Personal Shopper

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Music Calendar What to see and hear this week

FOOD

Food Court Mixtli praise, popsicle news, and two very unfortunate closings

ETC.

Savage Love Jonesin’ Crossword Freewill Astrology

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NEWS

TRUST ISSUES Jury in wrongful death lawsuit clears city, oﬃcer who shot and killed Marquise Jones MICHAEL BARAJAS | @MICHAELSBARAJAS

≥

Last week, a jury weighing the wrongful death claim filed by the surviving family of Marquise Jones ruled in favor of the City of San Antonio and the officer who shot and killed Jones the morning of February 28, 2014. Robert Encina was working an off-duty security job at the Chacho's restaurant on Perrin Beitel Road that morning when he encountered a drunk driver in the restaurant's drive-thru lane. Encina told fellow San Antonio Police Department officers investigating the scene that morning that Jones jumped out of the passenger seat holding a silver or chrome revolver in his hand. In a statement he gave investigators, Encina said he fired eight bullets at Jones after he "looked over his shoulder at me" while running away. A single bullet hit Jones in the back, perforating a lung and lacerating the right atrium of his heart before lodging somewhere in his chest. Lawyers for Jones' family have been poking holes in that story ever since. While a Chacho's manager told police that morning that he saw Jones with what "looked like a handgun," five other eyewitnesses signed statements that morning saying they either didn't see a gun or that Jones did not have one. James Brantley, who says his car was parked right next to the one Jones ran from, testified at trial that Jones didn't have a gun when he was shot. Brantley says Encina even ran up to him right after the shooting, repeatedly saying, "You seen a gun, right?" — he hadn't. Not only did police never take a statement from Brantley (who others confi rmed seeing that morning), he testifi ed on the stand that police even asked him to back his car out of the crime scene before telling him he could go. He was so close, he testifi ed, that offi cers had to help him maneuver the vehicle around bullet casings. (As we've previously written, Brantley also claims some other very shady stuff happened to him after he came forward with his story last year. See more coverage of the case at sacurrent.com.) It's rare for such officer-involved shooting cases

CURRENT • April 12-18, 2017• sacurrent.com

to even make it to trial, and even rarer that the plaintiffs succeed. But the fact that the courts allowed the Jones case to move forward at all is even more striking because of what the plaintiffs were alleging: a coverup. It was SAPD's own investigation into the shooting that allowed for the allegations to take root — creating, as one federal magistrate put it, "a genuine factual dispute regarding whether Jones had a gun and whether he made any threatening gestures to justify the use of deadly force." Throughout the case, Daryl Washington, the attorney representing the Jones family, pointed to a so-called “prosecution guide” SAPD gave the Bexar County District Attorney’s Office after its own investigation into the shooting, which Washington says conveniently glossed over evidence or information that would have challenged Encina's narrative of the shooting. Jerry Staton, a police expert hired by Washington to review SAPD's investigation, told the jury in federal court that, more likely than not, multiple SAPD officers “tried to conceal evidence in this investigation that would have contradicted Encina’s version of events.” On the stand, Staton said he was genuinely troubled by the conclusion, adding, “It’s why I couldn’t sleep last night.” Meanwhile, lawyers for the city and Encina have pointed to a gun found some 25 feet away from where Jones collapsed dead on the pavement — which, like most things in the Jones case, has its own cloudy history. Police say Jones must have thrown the gun while he was dying. Yet, for years officials said they hadn't tested the gun for fingerprints or any DNA evidence — therefore, according to investigators who testified in court depositions, police could never tie the gun to Jones. The case got even curious-er when the city began to reveal even more information about that gun on the eve of trial. A week before lawyers started jury selection on the case, San Antonio City Manager Sheryl Sculley announced, out of the blue, that the

gun actually had been tested for fingerprints — in January 2016, nearly two years after the shooting — and that no prints were recovered. And then, sometime during trial, the defense revealed that the gun had also been tested for DNA years after the fact, again with no luck. On the stand, SAPD Chief William McManus had no answer when asked why the tests were ordered so late. When asked about whether procedures exist for evidence involved in city litigation, he responded, "I suppose that would probably be a good idea, yeah." After three years of the city insisting there was nothing wrong with its investigation or handling of evidence in the case, Sculley tapped an outside law firm to conduct a review "out of an abundance of caution." No telling yet when that might be done. Sculley issued a prepared statement on the case after the verdict came down last week clearing the city and officer of any liability in Jones’ death. "While we agree with the jury’s verdict, we fully recognize that there is never any victory in a fatal shooting," she said. "Our condolences continue to be extended to the family of Marquise Jones on the loss of a loved one." While lawyers for Encina argued he genuinely feared for his life when he shot and killed Jones (which is about all officers really have to argue as a defense in such cases), city attorneys dismissed any allegations of a coverup as nonsense. Jones' attorneys implied the gun had been planted, pointing, for instance, to a photo of the drive-thru scene that morning where the weapon doesn't seem to be there. In closing arguments Wednesday, assistant city attorney Deborah Klein questioned why someone would plant a gun 25 feet away from Jones instead of right near him if that was the intent. She acknowledged that SAPD "might not have done the perfect investigation," but said the coverup theory "doesn't make any sense." Crappy investigation or crappy coverup — those are apparently the options. How confidence inspiring.

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sacurrent.com • April 12-18, 2017 • CURRENT 11

N SA OF Y S

ONIO.GOV ANT

CO UR T

NEWS

< NO

SHOW

Guess whose political forums Mayor Taylor has been skipping MICHAEL BARAJAS | @MICHAELSBARAJAS

≥

Mayor Ivy Taylor has earned a tense relationship with San Antonio's LGBTQ community. The rift dates back to the 2013 battle over an equal rights ordinance here, when homophobic and transphobic backlash from religious-right groups failed to stop City Council from passing protections against discrimination based on sexual orientation and gender identity. While Taylor, then a District 2 councilwoman, wasn’t as forceful as some of her conservative council colleagues in opposing the ordinance (like former councilwoman Elisa Chan, who remained unapologetic after being caught on tape calling trans people “disgusting”), her stance against protections for the LGBTQ community was unapologetic. "I will not sacrifice my core values and beliefs for political gain," Taylor, who often talks about her Christian faith, said at the time. "If that was the expectation for me as a black woman, you’ve got the wrong sister in this seat." It was a defensive, sharp-elbowed response. Later, when she was running for her first full term as mayor, she told a crowd gathered at John Hagee’s Cornerstone megachurch: "I do

not feel we should have even been debating that issue … I thought it was a waste of time." Not long after, many in the community started calling her “Poison Ivy.” Robert Salcido is among those who have tried to ease that tension during Taylor's first term, serving on an LGBT advisory group the mayor would rarely even meet with. His and others' push for a city office that would actually receive and investigate allegations of discrimination eventually paid off — sort of. Months before her election in 2015, Taylor created the skeleton-crew Office of Diversity and Inclusion at City Hall, which advocates like Salcido are still pushing to make more effective (like, say, giving it subpoena power so it can actually investigate things). Salcido, the volunteer director and board chair for Pride Center San Antonio, says he's remained engaged with the mayor's office because the passage of a non-discrimination ordinance only scratched the surface of what the city's LGBTQ community needs. Indeed, he's faced his share of criticism for it. Last year, when Taylor accepted his invitation to address a somber vigil after the mass shooting at

BLURRED LINES

Texas’ top Republicans want Congress to smash the decades old barriers separating church and state ALEX ZIELINSKI | @ALEX_ZEE

CURRENT • April 12-18, 2017• sacurrent.com

an Orlando gay club, some turned their backs on her and yelled "shame on you." She finished her Bible verse ("Blessed are those who persecute you") and quickly left the mourning crowd. Now, with the May 6 election fast approaching, Salcido says he's frustrated by how little he has to show for that engagement. Last week, he watched inside the Fiesta Room at the downtown Luby's as the two other leading mayoral contenders — Bexar County Democratic Party Chair Manuel Medina and Councilman Ron Nirenberg — debated issues of diversity and inclusion at a candidate forum organized by the local League of United Latin American Citizens (LULAC) LGBT Council. Taylor, while invited, was absent. Just as she was for all LGBTQorganized candidate forums last year. Just as she has been for all three organized so far this year, at which virtually every other mayoral candidate has made an appearance. Taylor's campaign folks blamed "scheduling conflicts." Salcido has another theory: "It's impossible to get her in a room full of queer people if they're going to be asking questions."

> Last week, Texas' top officials took time out of their week to urge members of Congress to pass a bill that unabashedly blurs the line between church and state. "Religious liberty is a cornerstone of our republic," wrote Gov. Greg Abbott and Attorney General Ken Paxton in a joint letter to House Speaker Paul Ryan and Senator Majority Leader Mitch McConnell. "From the birth of the nation until passage of the Johnson Amendment, churches and pastors played a vital role in bringing a faith

Among the questions that have come up at these forums: how to make sure local LGBTQ-owned businesses are adequately considered for city contracts, or how to boost the community's representation on city boards and commissions. At Monday's LULAC forum, both Nirenberg and Medina publicly said they'd support expanding the city's non-discrimination ordinance to cover not just city operations and contractors but also private businesses operating in San Antonio. Both said they'd support city funding for LGBTQ resources in the community. Salcido already figures how Taylor might answer those questions. A few months ago, while he was meeting with the mayor, he says the notion that the city might help support an LGBTQ resource center came up. "She told me she wouldn't necessarily stand in the way of it," he said. "But then she said she'd still oppose spending any taxpayer money on what she called 'a controversial issue.'" Perhaps we shouldn't be surprised that, in her bid for a second term as mayor, Taylor's ignoring a whole segment of the community that she considers "a controversial issue."

perspective to the pressing political issues of the day." The two Republican state officials have asked Congress to pass the Free Speech Fairness Act, a measure that would override the Johnson Amendment — the 60-year-old rule barring tax-exempt organizations, like churches and non-profits, from endorsing political campaigns. Or, in the words of New York Times political reporter Jeremy Peters, "one of the brightest lines in the legal CONTINUED ON PAGE 15 >

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On view through June 4

This exhibition is organized by the Brooklyn Museum. Lead funding at the McNay is most generously given by the Elizabeth Huth Coates Charitable Foundation and The Brown Foundation, Inc. Additional support is provided by the Marcia and Otto Koehler Foundation, the Nathalie and Gladys Dalkowitz Charitable Trust, Frost Bank, The Joan and Herb Kelleher Charitable Foundation, the G.A.C. Halff Foundation, the Director’s Circle, and the Host Committee. Berthe Morisot, Madame Boursier and Her Daughter (detail), ca. 1873. Oil on canvas. Brooklyn Museum, Museum Collection Fund, 29.30. Photo: Sarah DeSantis, Brooklyn Museum

CURRENT • April 12-18, 2017• sacurrent.com

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separation between religion and politics." Abbott and Paxton argue that the Fairness Act — or House Bill 172 — would allow pastors to speak without the threat of censorship, and even help improve political dialogue. They use an arguably bizarre example to prove this point. "Churches...played less well-known, but certainly significant, roles in political discussions, including legislation in the early 1800s to criminalize dueling." In the early 1800s, the U.S. government also created an entire bureau to force Native Americans to convert to Christianity, believing it was their only chance at survival. Naturally, Abbott and Paxton didn't mention this. The two also didn't mention the major self-serving benefit of this bill's passage. Overturning the Johnson Amendment, named after Texas' own Lyndon B. Johnson, would allow tax-free donations from a church or charity organization to directly fund a political campaign. Unsurprisingly, conservative Christian organizations (like the notoriously anti-LGBT Family Research Council), who fill the pockets of far-right Republicans like Paxton and Abbott, wholeheartedly support this reversal. But many other religious and non-profit groups oppose this move. A coalition of 99 religious and denominational organizations — representing Baptist, Islamic, Seventh-day Adventist, Catholic, Jewish, and dozens of other religious groups — sent a letter to congressional leaders last week asking them to throw out HB 172 to preserve religious integrity and credibility. "The charitable sector, particularly houses of worship, should not become another cog in a political machine or another loophole in campaign finance laws," the group wrote. "Houses of worship are spaces for members of religious communities to come together, not be divided along political lines, faith ought to be a source of connection and community, not division and discord." Non-religious members of the tax-exempt sector seem even less pleased to be dragged into the partisan conversation. Both the Council on Foundations (representing charitable organizations) and the National Council of Non-Profits wrote letters to Congress urging lawmakers to keep the Johnson Amendment intact. "Our society is better today, because 501(c)(3) organizations operate as safe havens from the caustic partisanship that currently is bedeviling our country, as places where people can come together to actually solve community problems rather than just posture and remain torn apart," write the NCN. "Repeal or revision of the law would damage the integrity and effectiveness of all charitable nonprofi ts and foundations." But Paxton and Abbott were unapologetic in their support of smashing these decades-old barriers — and applauded President Trump's simply-worzed support of HB 172. "Churches have been kept on the sidelines of political debate," they write. "We agree with the president that Congress should 'totally destroy' the Johnson Amendment."

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CASH FLOW Here’s how much San Antonio congressmen were paid to let internet providers sell your browser history ALEX ZIELINSKI | @ALEX_ZEE

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CURRENT • April 12-18, 2017• sacurrent.com

@ H ey E y e C a n dy

> In late March, Congress quietly passed a bill to unroll internet privacy protections put in place by the Obama Administration. In short, the vote has given internet services providers (or ISPs) like Verizon, Comcast, and AT&T the green light to sell your browsing history to advertisers without your consent. Understandably, there are few internet users who support this vote, regardless of their partisan beliefs. But that didn't stop every Texas Republican member of Congress from voting in favor of undoing the ISP privacy act. It may have helped that these major telecommunications providers who could profit off these ad sales have bankrolled each and every one of these lawmakers' most recent campaigns. In total, ISPs have given Texas Republicans at least $866,000 in campaign donations in their most recent run for office. In fact, since 2012, U.S. Sen. John Cornyn has received more campaign dollars from ISPs than any other U.S. Senator in the country (he argues the reversal will help create jobs). And Congressman Will Hurd, a San Antonio conservative, has received more ISP campaign contributions than any other Texas representative in Congress. Hurd, a former CIA agent, was given at least $63,000 from ISPs in his 2015 campaign, including major contributions from Comcast, AT&T, and the nation's largest telecom lobby, the National Cable and Telecommunications Association. This contribution doubles the amount of ISP contributions received by the majority of Texas lawmakers. Asked to explain the reasoning behind his vote, Hurd's offi ce gave a puzzling response.

“I support rolling back the FCC's rules that would create different, bureaucratic privacy protection frameworks for different parts of the internet," Hurd said in a prepared statement to the Current. "I will continue to fight...to enforce fair and level privacy standards across the entire internet ecosystem... because the families who depend on San Antonio’s burgeoning tech industry deserve a fair and competitive regulatory environment.” In Hurd's mind, it appears, if some other unspecified "parts" of the internet aren't protected, then none of it should be. Instead of placing privacy laws on ISPs, he voted to "level privacy standards" by removing them altogether. The only other San Antonio conservative member of Congress, Lamar Smith, has also received some of the heftiest campaign contributions from ISPs in the state. In his 2015 reelection campaign, Smith received at least $56,200 from telecom providers — nearly half from Verizon and AT&T alone. This comes as less of a surprise, since Smith authored the 2011 Stop Online Piracy Act (nicknamed SOPA), the internet censorship bill that fi zzled out in committee. Houston Congressman Pete Olson is the only other state congressman who's received anything close to Smith or Hurd's ISP donations — most lawmakers representing metropolitan areas haven't been given more than $30,000 in telecom donations. Thanks to these Texans' votes, ISP giants now have the untethered ability to profit off your browser history. And there's no going back — part of the measure makes sure the FCC can't implement this kind of protection in the future.

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sacurrent.com • April 12-18, 2017 • CURRENT 17

FEATURE

WORDS BY JESSICA ELIZARRARAS @JESSELIZARRARAS

Bri n g on the 18

HOW JASON DADY'S CAREER PREPARED HIM FOR FOOD NETWORK'S IRON CHEF REBOOT

u n t a l e G

CURRENT • April 12-18, 2017 • sacurrent.com

FEATURE

Iron Chef Gauntlet premieres on the Food Network Sunday, April 16 at 8 p.m. Reserve your seat at Shuck Shack's viewing party by emailing rsvp@jasondady.com.

THE BARTENDER POURED A TRIO OF TEQUILA SHOTS INTO CLEAR PLASTIC GLASSES, TURNED AROUND AND HANDED THEM OVER TO THE NE'ER-DO-WELLS NE'ER-DO THAT WERE ABOUT TO HOP ON STAGE AND PUT THEIR CHEF SKILLS TO THE TEST DURING THE SPROUTS CULINARY SHOWDOWN. THIS TIME, THOUGH, JASON DADY WASN'T WHIPPING UP A DISH IN LESS 30 MINUTES LIKE HE HAD THE PAST THREE YEARS. INSTEAD, THE RESTAURATEUR WAS MASTER OF CEREMONIES. Dady clinked his plasticware, unfazed by the tequila burn, and hopped on stage. “How’s everyone doing tonight?” From there, the extroverted Dady kept the 1,200 food lovers at Flavor, the Current’s annual foodlovers’ bacchanal, entertained, ribbing his fellow chefs, praising the local celebrity competitors, checking in with judges and explaining how exactly the competing duos could prepare Dungeness crab. Working a crowd isn’t new for Dady, the chef-owner and face of Jason Dady Restaurant

Group, which is also managed by wife Crystal and younger brother Jake. After 16 years in San Antonio’s culinary scene, the 6’4” chef has innumerable local TV appearances and hundreds of food events under his toque. He’s in his element in front of a crowd. Dady will need to hone every ounce of that skill as he sets foot on the biggest stage of his career yet — competing in Food Network’s Iron Chef Gauntlet this April. But his journey there began in the early 2000s. sacurrent.com • April 12-18, 2017 • CURRENT 19

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FEATURE

CHERRY GLAZED BABY BACK RIBS FROM TWO BROS BBQ MARKET, FRESH PASTA FROM TRE TRATTORIA, AND OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL FROM SHUCK SHACK.

ntimate, romantic, and set inside a renovated Castle Hills estate, The Lodge became one of the it locations for special occasions. Dinners there meant choosing between five or eight courses, and settling in for several hours worth of oohing and ahhing at picturesque plates. “San Antonio had a very different dining scene, with few restaurants doing high-end innovative cuisine. Dady, trained at the California Culinary Academy, established a team that quickly became a critical favorite and a noted spot for romantic dining,” wrote the San Antonio Express-News when Dady announced The Lodge’s closing in 2011. The 24-year-old Texas Tech University grad was looking to make a scene when he made his way to sleepy San Antonio, where he made a splash by opening The Lodge, a fine dining restaurant with elaborate tasting menus. “It was inventive…where he opened a fine dining restaurant in this beautiful mansion — it hadn’t been done in a while,” says Karen Haram, former Express-News food editor for 28 years. No, The Lodge wasn’t the only restaurant of its caliber at the time, but it was one of the few in the Alamo City, its only real peer being Andrew Weissman’s Le Rêve, which opened in the late ’90s. Otherwise, the city had a few big names like Mark Bliss and Bruce Auden, who were tackling projects such as Silo Elevated Cuisine and Biga on the Banks. Nowadays, the number of chefs the city can brag about continues to grow and now include areas in Southtown, The Pearl, and throughout San Antonio. The Lodge wasn’t it for Dady. Ron Bechtol, local critic since the late ’70s (and frequent Current contributor), put it succinctly. “[He] initiated what was apparently his plan all along: the culinary conquest of San Antonio. And beyond.” Empire sounds too colonial, but it’s one of the words that come to mind when describing Dady’s group of restaurants. Here’s what Dady’s done in the last 16 years. In 2004, he opened BIN 555 with modern American cuisine and followed it with Tre Trattoria’s Tuscan Italian in 2007 in Alamo Heights. Dady delved into his love of smoke

when Two Bros BBQ Market opened off West Avenue, and showcased new American dishes inside The Fairmount Hotel’s Restaurant Insignia in 2009. His answer to the food truck craze came in 2010 with Dady’s Underground Kitchen, or DUK Truck for short, with DUK tacos of duck confit and steamed buns. They weren’t all winners, but one of Dady’s greatest strengths appears to be his chameleon-like ability to adapt and reinvent. In 2011, he scrapped Insignia for Tre Trattoria Downtown. He looked at national trends that showed the declining popularity of fine dining and closed The Lodge on New Years Eve of that year. In early 2014, BIN 555 closed and Dady opened Umai Mi, a funky, rap-filled fusion Asian eatery that was probably too edgy for its time here, and followed that up by partnering with Jody and Steve Newman to open Southtown barbecue joint B&D Ice House that March. Umai Mi’s location proved its major weakness, so Tre Enoteca replaced it in 2015 with burrata and house-made pastas. Dady took a chance at casual and opened Shuck Shack on Fourth of July of 2015 with oysters on the halfshell, lobster rolls and patio pounders off Grayson Street. Most recently, Dady reimagined BIN 555 as The Bin, a tapas bar filled with gin and tonics and sangria. Oh, and he gave up coffee and Diet Coke as of last March. Through it all, he’s cultivated a celebrity chef persona — he joined Twitter in March 2009 and interacts with his close to 7,000 followers on a daily basis. Same goes for Instagram, where more than 5,000 fans have double tapped his eclectic posts since June 2013. He rarely turns down a TV appearance, shares recipes whenever he’s asked and has been a part of the Food + Wine Festival circuit since 2001. The father of three makes it work with help from business partner and wife Crystal, brother Jake, a gaggle of managers and chefs at each eatery and catering company, all tasked with executing his vision. He’s also shaping San Anto’s future by surrounding himself with a team that’s gone on to do well on their own. His end goal: helping the city get the attention it deserves. “2017 is San Antonio’s year. Mark my words,” he posted on Facebook this January. Dady's impact is felt through the local talent he’s

fostered in his restaurants. A 20-year-old Robbie Nowlin was attending St. Philip’s culinary program when he first applied to work at The Lodge. “I learned the importance of salt and balance from the kitchen perspective,” Nowlin says. Nowlin, now 33, went on to work at Thomas Keller’s French Laundry before relocating back to San Antonio to helm Citrus and is currently the executive chef for sister eateries Boudro’s Texas Bistro and Zinc Bistro & Wine Bar. Moreover, Nowlin says, Dady helped create jobs in the city. “He’s made a lot of jobs! It’s funny ‘cause he doesn’t get the benefit of that. He’s made up 250 jobs for our city and that’s a big deal,” Nowlin says. Over in Monte Vista, former Tre Trattoria chef Mark Weaver is still learning lessons from Dady as he maneuvers his first solo venture, Periphery. After seven years with Dady, Weaver opened Periphery in early February with rustic new American dishes. Though he can’t pinpoint any one specific lesson from Dady, Weaver says it all started to make sense to him when he was the one dealing with the numbers. “You start to understand things [as an owner] that, as a chef, would have pissed you off,” Weaver laughs. “Numbers are everything. [Dady] has this motto: ‘Make it happen,’ that’s really true. Whatever troubles you’re going through, the guests don’t care, you just make it happen.” He points to Dady as a mentor and friend who took him on trips he wouldn’t have had the opportunity to go on, but he also notes Dady’s hands-off leadership style. “He put a lot of trust in me, left me alone, let me make mistakes, let me play and experiment,” Weaver says. And again, Dady's love for his adopted city comes up. “We get overlooked a lot, and in a way, he makes it personal,” Weaver says. “He knows everybody, everything that’s going on.” At King’s Hwy. Brew & Q, Emilio “Emo” Soliz, says he learned everything from Dady, including how to do a onehanded quenelle (read: the fanciful egg-shaped dollop of ice cream or whipped cream restaurants use to wow diners). “I never learned the other way,” Soliz says. Before leaving to open Sweet Christi’s food truck and King’s Hwy. in 2015, Soliz served as garde manger, or pantry chef, for Dady at The Lodge and later pitmaster at sacurrent.com • April 12-18, 2017 • CURRENT 21

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aybe 2017 will be San Antonio’s year to bask in the spotlight. Last month, The New York Times shared a spoton guide on how to spend 36 hours in the Alamo City. The Pearl routinely draws attention from national publications, but as of yet, the city hasn’t hit that rolling boil of constant media nods. San Antonio's time in the spotlight, until recently, has been focused on its TexMex traditions. Diana Barrios-Treviño, owner of Los Barrios, La Hacienda de los Barrios and Viola’s Ventanas, has had her fair share of experience with national media. According to Barrios’ website, her appearances include The White House, representing Southwestern United States at the Congressional Picnic; Good

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Two Bros BBQ Market. He says he learned how to conduct himself in the public eye, how to run numbers, keep inventory, and be a family man from Dady. “Stefan [Bowers] was my Obi-Wan, but Jason is my yoda,” Soliz says. And seemingly Dady still carves out time to coach former chefs on all manners of things. Soliz will text him questions about how to balance family life (Dady has three children, Soliz has four), handle situations with employees or rude guests, or price a catering menu. The texting continues in a three-way conversation between Dady, Nowlin and Stefan Bowers, who worked for Dady as chef de cuisine at The Lodge for three years building creative menus and plating beautiful dishes. “The best thing that ever happened to my career was getting fired by Jason,” Bowers says. “He knew it was time to get fresh blood in there.” At just over 18 months Dady’s senior, Bowers’ relationship with his chef involved a lot of pushing and pulling, until he finally pushed too hard. (“I got fired for being a total asshole. I was too much, you have to know whose house you’re in.”) He left The Lodge in 2008 and landed at 20Nine Restaurant & Wine Bar. The chefs didn’t speak for more than three years. They eventually patched things up after Bowers opened Feast in 2012 and Dady walked in with an olive branch. “I never could understand what Jason Dady was when I was a sous chef. Once Feast opened, I realized the stress and responsibility of making a restaurant successful,” Bowers says. These days, they text about what it’s like to keep several eateries afloat at once, as Bowers serves as executive chef and co-owner of three restaurants that are also bringing national attention to the city: Feast, Rebelle inside The St. Anthony Hotel (which drew accolades after opening from the Current, San Antonio ExpressNews and Texas Monthly) and the recently-opened Battalion, a two-story beast of a restaurant that serves house-made pasta, luxurious sauces, and amaro-filled cocktails inside a renovated firehouse. “We’re ready for that national attention. I know at least my three restaurants are,” Bowers says.

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FEATURE

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WILL ALTON BROWN BE DADY'S BIGGEST FOE? Morning America with Emeril Lagasse; the Food Network, Food Nation with Bobby Flay; the Weekend Today Show on NBC Good Morning America with Sam Champion; Throwdown with Bobby Flay; the Today Show on NBC with Ann Curry; Martha Stewart Living Radio Show with Mario Bosquez, to name a few Though Los Barrios opened in 1979, Barrios says her appearance with Emeril Lagasse in 1999 was what really helped catapult the brand. “It just wasn’t our turn until then,” she says. These days, she’s recognized across the U.S. and even while on vacation in Mexico. Dady’s former chefs point to his height, good looks, and extroverted personality as reasons why he’ll make for good TV. Barrios agrees. “Well he’s cute as can be. He’s really tall, but he’s also very passionate about what he does,” she says while noting his diverse palate and ability to navigate several cuisines as evidenced by his slew of eateries. The general consensus is it’s Dady’s time to shine. That wasn’t the case in 2011 when he was cut as a “cheftestant” from Top Chef: Texas the night before it was set to begin filming in San Antonio, a secret only a select few have been privy to until now. The 40-year-old wasn’t always levelheaded enough to hold his cards so close to his chest. His chefs have seen the restaurateur mellow out from earlier years (“the nickname Emo comes from him saying Emilio was too long to yell,” Soliz says). Now, Dady steps away from social media before going down a rant-filled rabbit hole (“we get to an age where you realize attacking people is not how you’ll gain credibility or fellowship,” Bowers says.). Or as Dady puts it: “I’ve always known that holding on and being patient would result in the best opportunity.” Six years after being cut, Dady will take on former Top Chef winners and finalists along with friends he’s made from his travels (including Chicago’s Stephanie Izard and Cleveland’s Jonathon Sawyer) when Iron Chef Gauntlet debuts on April 16. The show’s format will involve a Chairman’s Challenge, where food nerd Alton Brown chooses the best and least successful dishes. The chef with the lowest score will face off against a competitor chosen by the winning chef for a Secret Ingredient Showdown, which will be judged then the loser gets sent home. The eventual winner of all of the showdowns will compete against Bobby Flay, Masaharu Morimoto and Michael Symon. And while he can charm most SA diners — though Dady does have a few detractors, as all top dogs do — he’s got to face Brown, of Good Eats fame. “He’s so intense, so smart. You’re not going to pull the wool over his eyes. The biggest thing I took away was that you’re talking to the expert of all experts — your food will speak for itself.” Dady’s strategy: Being himself. “You take it one dish at a time,” Dady said in an earlier interview. “I wanted to compete as myself and not be anything other than what I am.” After 16 years in San Antonio, that strategy seems to have paid off. sacurrent.com • April 12-18, 2017 • CURRENT 25

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Greater Tuna THEATER Writer/director Jaston Williams brings his cross-section of life in the “third-smallest town in Texas” to the Tobin this week as part of the latest tour of Greater Tuna. A hit since its premiere in Austin in the early ’80s, Greater Tuna sends up outmoded thinking without malice in its affectionate portrait of a town in which “the Lion’s Club is too liberal and Patsy Cline never dies.” Like a countrified Canterbury Tales, the show moves across a tableau of characters that range from small-town radio disc jockeys to God-fearing members of the town’s morality police, the “Smut Snatchers.” For many, Greater Tuna evokes all-too-familiar childhood trips to visit elderly relatives in the middle of nowhere, but this recognition isn’t required to get a kick out of the show, which this time around stars Ryan H. Bailey, Tim Leavon and Will Mercer. $19.60-59.50, 7:30pm, Tobin Center for the Performing Arts, 100 Auditorium Circle, (210) 223-8624, tobincenter.org — Kelly Merka Nelson

THU

OUR TOP PICKS FOR THE WEEK

Long before humans, thousands of species of dinosaurs ruled the earth — even inhabiting what we know today as the Lone Star State. Texas contains evidence of over 36 species of prehistoric reptiles that date back as early as the Permian era, nearly 300 million years ago. Fossils and footprints can be found in five national and state parks in Texas. Government Canyon Natural Area, the only public area in Bexar County containing dinosaur footprints, is located right here in Northwest San Antonio. In conjunction with its Louis A. CO U and Frances B. Wagner Series, the Witte presents “From Dinosaur Bones to Footprints: Over 100 Years of Fossil Discoveries in Texas,” a dino-namic discussion led by Dr. Thomas Adams, curator of paleontology and geology. Brush up on the history WED of dinosaurs in Texas as Adams TALKS references the larger-than-life PLUS Acrocanthosaurus and Tyrannosaurus Rex skeletons on display along with footprints and fossils of these ancient reptiles. The lecture comes after the recent unveiling of an impressive new museum extension that includes the Naylor Family Dinosaur Gallery and an interactive Dinosaur Lab offering visitors a hands-on paleontology experience. $5-$10, 6:308:30pm, Witte Museum, 3801 Broadway St., (210) 357-1900, wittemuseum.org. — Kimberly Rivera

CALENDAR

▲ Since its inception in 2009, RuPaul’s Drag Race has simultaneously championed and challenged drag as an art form — pushing contestants closer to social media stardom, touring gigs and recording contracts while shifting local spotlights away from established and emerging queens alike. (Addressing this conundrum, season eight favorite Thorgy Thor put it in a nutshell by telling Queerty “RuPaul’s Drag Race has sort of killed drag for queens who are not on the show.”) With a recent and significant move from LGBT-centric Logo TV to Viacom-owned VH1, the Emmy-winning reality series recently kicked off its ninth season with a record-breaking premiere that attracted nearly 1 million viewers — thanks in no small part to an appearance by Lady Gaga. Promising “more stars, more stunts and more shenanigans than ever before,” season nine is stacked with 14 queens, including Austin native Farrah Moan. Concocting her name from both late Texan icon Farrah Fawcett and basically “being a whore,” the 23-year-old performer favors a largerthan-life aesthetic that’s part showgirl, part fetish vixen. The Las Vegas-based drag starlet lands in the Alamo City for two Wednesday night performances courtesy of Rey Lopez Entertainment. $10-$25, 10:30pm & midnight, Heat Nightclub, 1500 N. Main Ave., (210) 386-4537, reylopezentertainment.com. — Bryan Rindfuss

‘From Dinosaur Bones to Footprints’

SARAH HOLDEN

LINDA PACE FOUNDATION

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Alejandro Diaz Book Release Party

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FW I T T E MUSE UM

◀ Although he relocated to New York more than 15 years ago, accomplished artist Alejandro Diaz has maintained an unmistakeable presence in his native San Antonio via inclusion in collections and exhibitions, and the continued influence of Sala Diaz, the experimental art space he launched in Southtown in 1995. As he told the Current in 2015, Diaz started making “populist art” as a way to make ends meet in New York City, selling tourists curious cardboard signs printed with phrases such as “Mexican Wallpaper” and “Audrey Hepburn Was Here” (which he naturally sold in front of Tiffany’s). Often employing humor and language to investigate identity politics and Tex-Mex THU culture, Diaz returned to the Alamo City two years ago for the solo ART + WORDS show “It Takes a Village.” Organized by the Linda Pace Foundation, the exhibition addressed class and culture via works that reinterpreted iconic styles and involved artistic collaborations with local faux-bois master Carlos Cortez and artisans from Guadalajara. Anchored by that 2015 show, the hardcover catalog Alejandro Diaz: It Takes a Village goes beyond the exhibition to unpack, celebrate and explore the significance of Diaz’s work through witty commentary provided by San Antonio art star Franco Mondini-Ruiz and insightful essays penned by LPF trustee Kathryn Kanjo and curator/art historian Rita Gonzalez. In celebration of its recent publication, LPF brings Diaz back home for a book release party and signing that comes complete with refreshments and musical entertainment. Free, 6-8pm, Brick, 108 Blue Star, (210) 227-8400, lindapacefoundation.org. — BR

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‘No Filters’

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THEATER + MUSIC Arts education programs nationwide have faced drastic defunding in recent years, but some organizations remain resilient in their support of young artists. Local nonprofit SAY Sí has been providing San Antonio’s youth with quality, tuition-free artistic education for over 20 years. Their ALAS Youth Theatre Company encourages students to use their life experiences, ideas and observations to create original productions. A local educator and musician, Dr. Marco Cervantes believes in empowering young minds and the use of artistic expression to advocate for social issues. His hip-hop alter ego Mexican Stepgrandfather is part of the Afro-Chicano ensemble Third Root. Their music, which he labels “scholarly rap,” is filled with messages about socio-economic divides, social injustice and uniting communities. A National Poetry Month collaboration between Cervantes and ALAS, “No Filters” offers SAY Sí students a platform to share their original music, poetry, and performance pieces at two shows preceded by open mic sessions. $5 (free for youth), 7-9pm Fri-Sat, SAY Sí, 1518 S Alamo, (210) 212-8666, saysi.org. — KR

‘Intersecting Boundaries’

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▲ A Southwest School of Art professor who also co-directs the cooperative studio/gallery hybrid Clamp Light, artist Sarah T. Roberts often references the childhood trauma of her mother’s death in draped installations crafted from women’s garments, and powder-coated aluminum sculptures that resemble lace masks. Building from her own interest in ways metalsmithing “overlaps with and questions the boundaries between sculpture, performance and body adornment,” Roberts has organized “Intersecting Boundaries,” a group show uniting Kat Cole, Sarah Holden, Tova Lund and Renée Zettle-Sterling. Bound in part by conceptual approaches to jewelry, the quartet touches on an unusual array of themes, methods and media — including enamel and steel neckpieces and sculptural constructions (Kat Cole), lace-like brooches and large-scale “soot drawings” inspired by Queen Elizabeth I (Sarah Holden), heavy found-object jewelry addressing equally heavy subject matter (Tova Lund) and “Western culture’s relationship with death and mourning” (Renée Zettle-Sterling). Free, 7-10pm, Clamp Light Artist Studios & Gallery, 1704 Blanco Road, Suite 104, (620) 218-1568, clamplightsa.com. — BR

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A Pastie Pops Fiesta!

BURLESQUE

◀ Just as many San Antonians are prepping to get dolled up in guayaberas, bedazzled chanclas and jingling medals, the Pastie Pops are plotting the most seductive ways to shimmy and shake out of the trappings of Fiesta. Billed as a “high-energy burlesque and variety show,” the sexy spring extravaganza sees the troupe’s core cast (Vixy Van Hellen, Jasper St. James, Mary Annette and Lucy Lips) putting an irreverent twist on the Alamo City’s most cherished tradition. Hosted by suggestively named provocateur Camille Toe and sponsored by Sexology Institute and Boutique, the evening of classic tease, boylesque and drag features special guest performances by Austin-based Aurora Hart, Chola Magnolia (crowned San Antonio Queen of Burlesque in 2015) and Lola LeStrange of Austin’s famed Jigglewatts Burlesque Revue. $20$50, Jump Start Performance Co., 710 Fredericksburg Road, (210) 227-5867, pastiepops.com. — BR

SAT

Exotic Easter

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TEMPLE OF FLESH

PAN DULCE GALLERY

SPECIAL EVENT

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‘Hot Wax’

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▲ In an interview that recently aired on Vice News Tonight, White Stripes frontman and Third Man Records boss Jack White said that the huge resurgence in the popularity of music on vinyl is occurring because, among other reasons, vinyl is “reverential.” That seems about right. There’s a certain sense of respect and even awe that accompanies the large, physical article. Inspired by their love of vinyl, the folks of Pan Dulce Gallery are presenting “Hot Wax: An Art Exhibition for Vinyl Lovers.” Featuring work rendered on vinyl records by 20-plus local and regional artists, the event one-ups that reverence White mentions. By creating works of art on old vinyl records, these artists have repurposed the artifacts in a way that celebrates their past lives, as well as their materiality/texture. Among the local artists showing are Hello Reg (unique, feminist, often bawdy graphic design), Daphid (pop art, often featuring musicians and other celebrities) and Jason “PopGuy” Ibarra (quirky, often dramatic, puro San Anto). Free, 7pm-midnight, Pan Dulce Gallery, 1005 N. New Braunfels Ave., (210) 797-2628, facebook.com/ pandulcegallery. — James Courtney

▶ If chocolate bunnies, egg hunts and Marshmallow Peeps make you want to crawl into a dungeon, local “fetish production company” Temple of Flesh has just what the doctor ordered. Known as both Exotic Easter and the San Antonio Fetish Ball, the always-provocative celebration has embraced myriad themes (pinup girls, vaudeville, steampunk and beyond) while hippity-hopping across town (from the Cameo Theatre to Sam’s Burger Joint to the Korova and points in between) and collaborating with burlesque performers, adult film stars, artists and musicians. Benefiting the local nonprofit BEAT AIDS, Exotic Easter 17 puts a naughty spin on Holy Week with an evening inspired by famous villains old and new. Co-hosted by pageant-winning drag diva Sasha Taylor and fetish performer Jericho Edge, the adults-only extravaganza serves up a boundarypushing buffet of “fetish frivolities,” including an original melodrama by Jules Vaquera, performances by aerial artist Queen Anthuros and Austin-based outfit EBM Dollz, an erotic installation created by Tofenburg Media, complimentary latex body painting, vendors specializing in adult novelties and a “fully equipped dungeon” for “curious seekers of pleasure and pain.” $20-$25, 8pm-2am, Players Club, 11431 Perrin Beitel Road, (210) 691-2050, safetishball.com. — BR

Book Launch for Cornyation

WORDS

◀ In 2009, Trinity professor Amy Stone attended Cornyation for the first time and was taken by both the diversity of the crowd and the campy farce itself — which was first produced in 1951 as a satire of the notoriously elite Coronation of the Queen of the Order of the Alamo and has evolved into a wildly popular, allencompassing spoof. Certifiably hooked, Stone started digging into the history of Cornyation in 2012 as something of a “pet project” that led to two years of research. Five years in the making, Stone’s new Trinity University Press book Cornyation: San Antonio’s Outrageous Fiesta Tradition presents her many findings in a format that’s part scrapbook, part crash course. Brought to life through 40-plus interviews, excerpts from scripts and more than 100 photos that date as far back as the 1950s, the book offers a fascinating look at Fiesta’s development into a more inclusive “party with a purpose” and Cornyation’s transformation from a “Fiesta for the little people” to a major fundraiser that’s donated more than $2 million to local HIV/AIDS charities. Recently highlighted through a San Antonio Book Festival panel, Cornyation officially launches with a reception, talk and book signing with Stone at Trinity’s Holt Center. Free, 4-5:30pm, Trinity University Holt Center, 106 Oakmont Court, (210) 9998884, tupress.org. — BR CONTINUED ON PAGE 35 ▶

CURRENT • April 12-18, 2017 • sacurrent.com

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Stage 3

Bud Light / Y100 Country Stage

Bud Light / KXTN 107.5 Tejano/Latin Stage

p.m. 5:30 5:45

p.m. 6:15 6:30

Bud Light / The Beat 98.5 R&B / Hip Hop Stage

DJ ULTRASONIC & DJ ROBBIE ROB

5:15

Stage 5

ECLIPSE

CACTUS COUNTRY

Children’s/Family

FRI

NETWORK FOR YOUNG ARTISTS

DANZAVIDA DE SAN ANTONIO

p.m. 5:15 5:30 5:45

THE WESTSIDE HORNS ONE DESTINY

(Tribute to Journey)

Stage 6

p.m. 6:15 6:30

6:45

p.m. 7:15 7:30

6:45

ECLIPSE

(Tribute to Journey)

7:45

p.m. 8:15 8:30

MIDLAND

RAM HERRERA & THE OUTLAWS

p.m.

EDDIE MONEY

8:30

WILLIAM CLARK GREEN

DAVID LEE GARZA Y LOS MUSICALES

8:45

NETWORK FOR YOUNG ARTISTS YING YANG TWINS

10:15 10:30 10:45

p.m.

Fireworks Spectacular

EVENT ENDS

OYSTERBAKE.COM

No Video or Audio Taping Fiesta Oyster Bake entertainers allowed!

Violators of this policy are subject to removal from the Fiesta Oyster Bake grounds and items are subject to conﬁscation.

CURRENT • April 12-18, 2017 • sacurrent.com

p.m. 9:15 9:30 9:45

p.m.

10:15

Entertainment is subject to change.

p.m.

CARLTON ZEUS

9:15

7:45

p.m.

9:45

7:30

8:15

(Tribute to Journey)

9:30

p.m. 7:15

BLAKE

ECLIPSE

8:45

CHEER-RIFFIC

10:30 10:45

p.m.

FIESTA OYSTER BAKE SAT 11

Stage 1

Stage 2

Bud Light/99.5 KISS Rock Stage

Stage 3

Bud Light/KJ 97 Country Stage

Bud Light/KXTN 107.5 Tejano/Latin Stage

Stage 5

Bud Light / MIX 96.1 Variety Pop Stage

Stage 6

SAT

Children’s/Family

a.m.

11:15

11:30

11:45

p.m.

NETWORK FOR YOUNG ARTISTS

12:15 12:30

12:30

12:45

p.m. 1:15 1:30

THE BEANS

1:45

Tori Rose Band

SMALL TOWN HABIT

BOMBASTA

1:30 1:45

IMAGE DANCE COMPANY