27.10.17 beauty EDITION
THE NEW NATURAL
capital disruptor
beauty grows up
Sharmadean Reid strikes again
POWER PLANTS
London’s NEXT GEN herbalists
Plus:
your future face smart sleeping and bella freud’s My London
Grace Coddington
Shot by Paolo Roversi
An audience with a fashion legend
CONTENTS
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5 What could be greater than Christian Slater in CAPITAL GAINS 6 Laura Craik gets the glow in UPFRONT 8 Our MOST WANTED are Louis Vuitton’s vanity cases
THE COLOGNE ‘I love the rich notes of rose and orange flower at the heart of this new ADP scent. A new personal favourite.’ Dipal Acharya, commissioning editor
11 Keeping it merry it’s Grayson Perry in FLASHBULB 12 The coup de GRACE CODDINGTON 21 Freudian knits in MEN’S STYLE 23 A brave new BEAUTY world
HERBALIST, heal thyself 34 From cuts to styles, this is HAIR to slay 40 SHARMADEAN REID has it nailed 45 AGE BEFORE BEAUTY? The new rules 49 Read our LIPS 50 TUBEROSE is back, and smelling good 55 GRACE & FLAVOUR eats at Salon 58 Get a skinful in DRINKS 61 Put it away in HOMEWORK 65 ESCAPE to Six Senses Zil Pasyon 66 Bella Freud’s MY LONDON 31
EDITOR Laura Weir
Here are the ES team’s top five beauty picks
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TIFFANY & CO eau de parfum, £52 (tiffany.co.uk)
Cover: Grace Coddington photographed by Paolo Roversi. Jean-Philippe Woodland
ACQUA DI PARMA Note di Colonia IV, £280 (acquadi parma.com)
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THE EAU DE PARFUM ‘Tiffany’s first fragrance in 30 years does not disappoint. Iris, patchouli... what’s not to love?’ Lily Worcester, deputy beauty and lifestyle editor
MAC Happy Go Dazzlingly face powder, £24.50 (maccosmetics.co.uk)
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THE POWDER ‘You know it’s nearly Christmas when golden face powder winks at you again. This time round I’m channelling the gilded cheekbones at the recent Versace show.’ Katie Service, beauty editor
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THE GADGET ‘I’m the kind of person who accidentally sleeps in their makeup quite regularly! This hassle-free cleansing brush has reformed me, as it whips all traces off in no time.’ Eniola Dare, fashion assistant
LUNA 2 for Combination Skin by FOREO, £169, at cultbeauty.co.uk
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THE BODY SHOP Japanese Matcha Tea Pollution Clearing Mask, £17 (thebody shop.com)
THE FACE MASK ‘I have to walk to work through the traffic fumes of Kilburn High Road every morning. My skin needs a little detox and this potion is my go-to defence.’ Nick Howells, deputy chief sub editor
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Editor Laura Weir Deputy editor Anna van Praagh Features director Alice-Azania Jarvis Acting art director Emma Woodroofe Fashion features director Katrina Israel Commissioning editor Dipal Acharya Associate features editor Hamish MacBain Features writer Frankie McCoy
Acting art editor Andy Taylor Art editor Jessica Landon Picture editor Helen Gibson Picture desk assistant Clara Dorrington
Beauty editor Katie Service Deputy beauty and lifestyle editor Lily Worcester
Social media editor Natalie Salmon Office administrator/editor’s PA Niamh O’Keeffe
Merchandise editor Sophie Paxton Fashion editor Jenny Kennedy Fashion assistant Eniola Dare Chief sub editor Matt Hryciw Deputy chief sub editor Nick Howells
Contributing editors Lucy Carr-Ellison, Tony Chambers, James Corden, Hermione Eyre, Richard Godwin, Daisy Hoppen, Jemima Jones, Anthony Kendal, David Lane, Mandi Lennard, Annabel Rivkin, Teo van den Broeke, Nicky Yates (style editor at large), Hikari Yokoyama Group client strategy director Deborah Rosenegk Head of magazines Christina Irvine
ES Magazine is published weekly and is available only with the London Evening Standard. ES Magazine is published by Evening Standard Ltd, Northcliffe House, 2 Derry Street, Kensington, London W8 5TT. ES is printed web offset by Wyndeham Bicester. Paper supplied by Perlen Paper AG. Colour transparencies or any other material submitted to ES Magazine are sent at owner’s risk. Neither Evening Standard Ltd nor their agents accept any liability for loss or damage. © Evening Standard Ltd 2016. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of ES Magazine without prior permission of the editor is strictly prohibited
Grace in focus
12 es magazine 27.10.17
She’s the genius creative director at large of American Vogue and, thanks to The September Issue, a celebrity in her own right. Sarah Mower meets Grace Coddington
PhotographS BY paolo roversi Sittings editor sophie paxton
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long queue of fashion pilgrims is inching adoringly towards a desk at which Grace Coddington is seated at a book signing at Smythson in New Bond Street. The photographers and stylists, socialites and students, and a string of her ex-assistants are clutching special Smythson orange leather-bound £195 editions of GingerNutz. Actually, the book isn’t by Coddington, but the man in the flat cap who is gleefully signing away next to her. Nobody knows the creative director of American Vogue better than the illustrator-writer-filmmaker and fashion mischief-maker Michael Roberts. The pair have been friends since the Seventies. GingerNutz is the cartoon
re-telling of the life of Coddington — depicted as an orangutan. Roberts flips over his favourite pages. GingerNutz shoots to modelling fame from obscure beginnings in the Borneo jungle. ‘Her trademarks were her ever-changing hairstyles: the Gibbon, the Baboon, the Capuchin and the Rhesus.’ (Coddington was legendary for her overnight style makeovers, which would stun lesser British Vogue staff when she was fashion editor in the Sixties and Seventies.) Then he breathlessly recites the denouement: when GingerNutz goes to the MET, she explains to her parents, ‘That’s the in-crowd’s name for Monkey’s Exclusive Tea Party!’ Coddington is laughing, her red hair flaring. It’s all there, one way or the other, from her birth in Anglesey in 1941, through her
27.10.17 es magazine 13
Future perfect
So how will you look in 2018? From wellness trends to hi-tech procedures, Annabel Rivkin introduces the innovations and happenings you need to know
Benjamin Madgwick
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he beauty industry is a radical space. An early adopting space. A riskembracing space. For all the strobing and contouring, blogging and vlogging, Kardashians and influencers, there is a hungry appetite for innovation and an almost uniquely fast response time when it comes to collective concerns, be they veganism, gender-fluidity or colour. Transparency and digital connection have transformed beauty into a democratic arena; one where things happen. And here we find ourselves at the crossroads: will the next powerful narrative be all bots and avatars or will low-fi start to resonate in a bullish backlash? The truth is, both ends of the spectrum — from almost scarily advanced to retro-Luddite — are peeking over the horizon and they are going to be battling for your attention and your spend. Forget Alien vs Predator, next year is set to be Techie vs Tree-hugger, Ground-breaking vs Granola. Anyway, my beauties, whether you are au naturel or brilliantly bionic, here are some of the next big things...
27.10.17 es magazine 23
BEAUTY
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Shoot from the lip Is there anything more powerful in your beauty arsenal than a punchy lipstick? Annabel Rivkin puts the latest launches to the test
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HOLLYWOOD LIPS IN DANGEROUS LIAISON, £24 (charlottetilbury.com) Very creamy. Feels expensive. Feels very grown-up. It’s a power colour — a boardroom hue. A kind of browny, winey neutral that isn’t really a neutral. I would never in a million years wear it. I’ll never be this grown-up. It’s sort of very glamorous headmistress territory. This might belong to someone who has a fully-functioning capsule wardrobe and an ISA. I am not she.
John-Philippe Woodland
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COTTON CANDY SUPER MATTE LIPSTICK IN PINK £1.50 (primark.com) This is a very tasteful mid pink. It feels faintly bridal or even a bit like it would suit a newsreader. The texture is incredibly dry and it’s highly pigmented, so I find that it works best under a clear gloss — but it’s too mainstream for me. On its own it makes my lips feel a bit chapped and neglected. Not sure it works hard enough in the end.
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ARMANI ECSTASY SHINE LIPSTICK IN 400, £29 (armanibeauty.co.uk) Almost cerise. And rather blue in tone. This is not my colour. But it’s got a really nice, satisfying texture. It feels the way a lipstick should: ladylike and yet risqué. I’m confused as to whether it reminds me of my mother’s posh Lauder lipsticks or the incredibly crappy ones I bought at the seaside Post Office on holiday with my midnight feast money. But it makes me feel rather sentimental.
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ROUGE LOUBOUTIN METALISSIME SILKY SATIN £75 (christianlouboutin.com.) Oh, good God it’s a metallic. Somewhere between a rust and a plum. I think even a year ago I would have hated this, but something about it feels incredibly relevant and Studio 54-ish. I love the texture; it’s creamy/ sticky enough to feel like you bothered. This is one to be worn at night. I quite felt like dancing when I put it on and I hate dancing. I might even wear this at Christmas parties.
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ROUGE DIOR LIQUID IN RECKLESS MATTE, £26.50 (dior.com) At first you think this is subtle, but it’s got some poppy orange tones that somehow highlight all the imperfections in your face, so I’d need immaculate skin to pull this off. But the texture is nicely sheer and highly pigmented, and if you got it right it might feel really modern. Perfect foundation, bit of mascara and this lipstick would be the way to keep it relevant rather than granny.
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ULTRA HD MATTE LIP COLOUR IN HD GLITZ BY REVLON, £8.99, at superdrug.com Tastes horrible. Really sickening and sweet. Like cheap, synthetic peaches. I don’t know what to say. I mean when would one ever wear this? Except for Halloween. It’s annoying because if you were going to wear blue, you would surely need it to stay put so that you could make your statement. But because it’s so smeary you can’t get sense of a solid colour; just bits of pink lip poking grotesquely through.
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CHANTECAILLE LIP SLEEK IN TANGO £32, at spacenk.com This is more of a tint. It seems to fall somewhere between a lipstick and a gloss. It’s so gentle that it would be good for people who are nervous about lipstick. It’s a pumped-up coral colour and I think men would like it; it’s unthreatening. And it could be kissed off in a nanosecond. Feels like holiday lippy — light tan and a bit of this and anything could happen.
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TOM FORD PATENT FINISH LIP COLOR IN TRUE CORAL £40, at harrods.com Very red, very glossy, bright cherry-coloured. Like what a kid thinks lipstick should look like. Really fun, really sticky and really silly. It’s an instant mood enhancer. It’ll give you a 1950s movie star mouth. Pouty, glossy and actually in the end not very sexy, but kitsch. Made me laugh but also made me feel as if I were in fancy dress.
27.10.17 ES MAGAZINE 49
my london
bella freud as told to lily worcester
Home is… Ladbroke Grove (below), with my son Jimmy who is nearly 17. I’ve lived in the area for 25 years.
Best meal you’ve had? I love snacks and I’ve had some really mind-blowing ones at the Rose Bakery (left) in Dover Street Market. They had these blueberry and raisin scones and they were pretty off the scale. I hate butter so I have them with jam and cream.
What was the last play you saw? I saw Oslo at the Harold Pinter Theatre, which I really didn’t like. The Oslo process didn’t do it for me. It was a macabre mocking of real life events.
Best piece of advice you’ve ever been given? My husband James said to me, ‘You have to be able to listen to what people say.’ If I’m going to come up with a good argument, I have to be able to hear what people have to say and not just barge in with my opinion. If you had to be locked in a London building overnight which would it be? The Electric Cinema (below). I’d just watch films all night.
The designer paints the town red with Christian Louboutin, loves Ronnie Scott’s and wants a sleepover at the Electric Who is your hero? Phoebe Philo — she’s a great friend, I have a lot of admiration for what she does and how she does it. Her work is so full of integrity and it’s fun, and that’s a really beguiling combination. If you could buy any building which would it be? The In & Out club just off Piccadilly. I’d do it up as if it had never been interfered with by modernity. I’d have a salon in there and a lovely bedroom in the ballroom. It would be fun.
Where would you go for a nightcap? Somewhere where I could get a cup of tea — I love having a cup of tea in the middle of the night. I suppose I would go to The Fumoir (left) at Claridge’s for a jasmine tea. What do you collect? I like photographs and I’ve bought a few. I bought a Robert Mapplethorpe print. It’s of a young guy looking very gay and sexy.
Best place for a first date? When you are feeling extremely self-conscious and excited, sitting side by side is easier than face to face. So I’d go for a walk around the Serpentine (above) and probably end up having a black coffee in the café. I’d be far too nervous to eat. Who do you call when you want to have fun? Christian Louboutin (below) is always a really fun person to go out with. We often have lunch in Scott’s and that’s just heaven on earth. Psychoanalysis perfume and candle are available at Bella Freud, 49 Chiltern Street, W1 (bellafreud.com)
Getty; Alamy; Darren Gerrish
Which is your favourite club? Ronnie Scott’s. I’ve seen amazing people play there, like Nina Simone. I’ve been going since I was a teenager.