06.10.17
frieze curated:
What to SEE who to know and where to go
Modern Muse
Masterpiece dressing this season
Plus:
IDRIS KHAN Nicholas cullinan and sue tilley
The Art
issue
London’s moment in the frame
CONTENTS 5 What a wheeze, it’s time for Frieze in CAPITAL GAINS 7 The art of uninhibited ambition in UPFRONT 9 Our MOST WANTED are Erdem x H&M’s kitten heels 10 Portrait of an artist: IDRIS KHAN 17
ART: a blagger’s guide
25 Hermès on spin cycle in STYLE NOTES 26 Thoroughly modern MUSE
EDITOR Laura Weir
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@JESSIECAVE ‘Jessie Cave is a comedian who pens hilarious illustrations about life that are so real you can’t help but laugh.’ Helen Gibson, picture editor
33 Freud, Fendi, Kate Moss… SUE TILLEY has seen it all
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39 The sweet smell of success in BEAUTY 45
GRACE & FLAVOUR tastes the magic at Ella Canta 46
Here are the ES team’s five favourite Instagram art feeds
TART roast some rainbow carrots
49 The Eastern promise of autumn in HOMEWORK 50 Nicholas Cullinan’s MY LONDON
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@SURREAL _COLLAGE_BY_SOLAR ‘Mysterious cut ’n’ paste junky sØlar nails it every time with his surreal cosmic collages. His non-digital work uses vintage imagery, scissors and scalpel, creating a lo-fi analogue feel.’ Andy Taylor, acting art editor Cover: model photographed by Natasja Fourie. Styled by Sophie Paxton. MARQUES’ALMEIDA top, £585 (marquesalmeida.com). ACNE STUDIOS earrings, POA (acnestudios.com)
@ATELIER_BINGO ‘Collage, screenprints and digital all feature in French duo Maxime Prou and Adèle Favreau’s fun, frenetic, colourful work that lights up my Insta feed.’ Niamh O’Keefe, office administrator/ editor’s PA
@ELECTIONARTIST2017 ‘The obliquely wry work of Cornelia Parker has charmed me for years. She is official “election artist” this year and her Instagram pages are full of gently witty visual one-liners about the state of the nation.’ Nick Howells, deputy chief sub editor
Visit us online: standard.co.uk/esmagazine • Follow us:
@MARGUERITELONDON ‘I love this snapshot into the world of Marguerite, the salon for women working in the visual arts.’ Dipal Acharya, commissioning editor
@eveningstandardmagazine
@ESmagofficial
@ESmagofficial
Editor Laura Weir Deputy editor Anna van Praagh Features director Alice-Azania Jarvis Acting art director Emma Woodroofe Fashion features director Katrina Israel Commissioning editor Dipal Acharya Associate features editor Hamish MacBain Features writer Frankie McCoy
Acting art editor Andy Taylor Art editor Jessica Landon Picture editor Helen Gibson Picture desk assistant Clara Dorrington
Beauty editor Katie Service Deputy beauty and lifestyle editor Lily Worcester
Social media editor Natalie Salmon Office administrator/editor’s PA Niamh O’Keeffe
Merchandise editor Sophie Paxton Fashion editor Jenny Kennedy Fashion assistant Eniola Dare Chief sub editor Matt Hryciw Deputy chief sub editor Nick Howells
Contributing editors Lucy Carr-Ellison, Tony Chambers, James Corden, Hermione Eyre, Richard Godwin, Daisy Hoppen, Jemima Jones, Anthony Kendal, David Lane, Mandi Lennard, Annabel Rivkin, Teo van den Broeke, Nicky Yates (style editor at large), Hikari Yokoyama Group client strategy director Deborah Rosenegk Head of magazines Christina Irvine
ES Magazine is published weekly and is available only with the London Evening Standard. ES Magazine is published by Evening Standard Ltd, Northcliffe House, 2 Derry Street, Kensington, London W8 5TT. ES is printed web offset by Wyndeham Bicester. Paper supplied by Perlen Paper AG. Colour transparencies or any other material submitted to ES Magazine are sent at owner’s risk. Neither Evening Standard Ltd nor their agents accept any liability for loss or damage. © Evening Standard Ltd 2016. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of ES Magazine without prior permission of the editor is strictly prohibited
06.10.17 ES MAGAZINE 3
capital gains What to do in London by FRANKIE M c COY
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Taco the town
Superhero SQUATS
Wildly inventive and wickedly delicious Mexican food is the Breddos boys’ raison d’être — and with their second, larger site on Kingly Street, there’s all the more room to play around, with breakfast quesadillas, a basement cocktail bar and all-new bone marrow nachos with dripping bread. Salud to that. Opens 7 Oct (breddos.com)
Want Wonder Woman’s body? How about Scarlett Johansson’s in Avengers? Better head to the Corinthia Hotel’s BodySpace studio from David Higgins, trainer to the stars, where Dynamix classes, flywheel training and regeneration pods should give you abs to kick the ass of any baddie. Now open (body-space.co.uk)
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Three tequila more, as Tequila & Mezcal Fest descends on The Old Truman Brewery with a partystarting ocean of agavebased booze, Aztec ceremonies, Mexican dancing and ‘sip and savour’ workshops to cure you from your salt ’n’ lemon slammer ways. £20. 7-8 Oct (tequilafest.co.uk)
17 Acute Unequal Angles by Bernar Venet
Alamy; Landmark Media
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One tequila, two tequila...
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arm yourself
On your marks: brilliant street artist Adam Neate is releasing precisely 18 multiples of a new artwork, The Hug, to buy exclusively through Elms Lesters Painting Rooms. Trust us, the kudos you’ll get with this on your wall is priceless. Available 5 Oct (elmslesters.co.uk)
Arty PARTY
Prepare to ponder your way around Regent’s Park as Frieze London and Frieze Masters kick off, with hundreds of global galleries and all the highly politicised art you could hope for, including a whole section dedicated to feminism since the Sixties, and debates about alternative facts. Tickets from £27.95. 5-8 Oct (frieze.com)
last chance: Go cry for Argentina before Andrew Lloyd
Webber’s musical Evita, charting the life of Argentine dictator Juan Perón’s wife Eva, closes at the Phoenix Theatre on 14 October.
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Charlotte Hope in Albion at the Almeida
upping the replicante
Blade Runner is one of the most loved cult sci-fi films of all time — so, no pressure on director Denis Villeneuve, as long-awaited sequel Blade Runner 2049 is released, starring Ryan Gosling and Harrison Ford (again). Book your Imax tickets now. Out 5 Oct
Brit school
Mike Bartlett and Rupert Goold have great form: the writer and director last worked together on King Charles III. Their new play is even more state of the nation-y: Albion, at the Almeida, explores Britishness in 2017. Let the clever comments about Brexit flow. Tickets from £10. 10 Oct to 24 Nov (almeida.co.uk)
look ahead: Poetry please, as the Southbank Centre
welcomes Poetry International weekend on 13-15 October, this year dedicated to saving languages through poetry. (southbankcentre.co.uk)
06.10.17 es magazine
Studio styling Molly Goddard gathers her signature pleated tulle into textural brushstrokes MOLLY GODDARD dress, ÂŁ895, at Dover Street Market (020 7518 0680)
Private view Undulating tulle, a lightness of touch and painterly prints bring a stroke of style to the season PhotographS BY Natasja Fourie stylED BY Sophie Paxton 06.10.17 es magazine 27
my london
nicholas cullinan as told to lily worcester
Home is… Oval — I moved there two years ago when I came back from New York. I’m a dedicated south Londoner. If you could buy any London building and live there, which would it be? Admiralty Arch (above) — it would make my walk to work much quicker.
Where would you recommend for a first date? Andy Warhol said: ‘I believe in low lights and trick mirrors.’ So I’d go somewhere with some atmosphere and where it’s quiet so you can have a good chat, like Andrew Edmunds (above). What would you do if you were Mayor for the day? I would cut the internet so that people could look up from their screens and talk to each other. Favourite London pub? The Holly Bush in Hampstead is a nice place to go to after a swim in Hampstead Ponds, and also perfect for a Sunday roast. It used to be George Romney’s house — he is one of my favourite British artists. Last play you saw? I saw Thomas Ostermeier’s electrifying production of Richard III at the Barbican earlier this year. I don’t go to the theatre as much as I would like, but I do see a lot of dance and opera. In July I went to see Otello at Covent Garden with Elizabeth Peyton — she painted Jonas Kaufmann (right), who was performing in that production.
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The director of the National Portrait Gallery gets trendy at Frank’s Cafe and takes dating advice from Andy Warhol Which shops do you rely on? Thomas Heneage in St James’s for art books. If you had to be locked in a building overnight, which would it be? The V&A — it would be great to have all those galleries to yourself. Favourite London discovery? Rivoli Ballroom in Brockley — it was the setting for Tina Turner’s ‘Private Dancer’ video and is the perfect place to throw a party.
Where do you go to let your hair down? Frank’s Cafe (left) in Peckham; it’s on the roof of a multi-storey car park and has spectacular views across London. Best meal you’ve had? Xu on Rupert Street; it’s a Taiwanese restaurant and the food (right) is excellent. I recently went with my friend Angela Choon, who is senior partner at David Zwirner gallery. She always knows the best restaurants to go to.
What was the last album you bought? I listen to a lot of music. Right now, I’m into Ady Suleiman, who is just about to release his first album. Best piece of advice you have been given? Paris is Burning is a documentary from the early Nineties about ball culture in New York. The closing scene is of Dorian Corey doing his makeup, saying, ‘Pay your dues and just enjoy it. If you shoot an arrow and it goes real high, hooray for you.’ Wise words. Nicholas Cullinan is speaking at Cliveden Literary Festival on 14 October (clivedenliteraryfestival.org)
The Progress 1000, in partnership with Citi and supported by Invisalign, is the Evening Standard’s celebration of the people who make a difference to London life. #progress1000 Alamy; Rex; Jan Vrhovnik; Chris Floyd
Who’s your hero? Cy Twombly (Second Voyage to Italy, left). I worked on the Tate Modern show in 2008 with him. It was a privilege spending so much time with such a great artist and I guess it left an impression on me.