EDITOR’S LETTER LAURA WEIR
Welcome to our bumper Fashion Edition — 144 pages of pure, decadent, joyous fashion — with lots to love, things to buy and pieces to treasure. Our cover star is the controversial 21-year-old model Slick Woods; sexually charged, with limitless cheek and confidence, this free spirit is wowing the fashion world with her trademark toothy grin and challenging insouciance. From political slogan T-shirts to punk riot wear, this season has a distinctive anarchic tone and Slick embodies that mood. As always, fashion is a tale of two halves, so turn to page 67 to read about the return of modesty; it’s also time to button up, hemlines are lengthening and a pie-crust collar is all the rage. Also in this issue we launch our first ES Magazine Fashion Power 100. I spent months deliberating over our list of the supremely talented individuals making planet fashion spin. We canvassed the industry, took names off and put them back on again — and the end result is our definitive list of fashion’s most important power players. Plus, of course, we’ve decoded this season’s looks so you don’t have to. There are disco shoes, plastic coats, plus mega autumn winter knits in our shoot on page 82. Ever wondered where Debbie von Bismarck buys her boho earrings? Or Simone Rocha does her weekly shop? Our favourite London fashion folk open their little black books on page 63. The fabulous Dame Joan Collins takes us on a trip through her Eighties archive and schools us in the politics of power dressing on page 37. And, to the future; for the first time our Fashion Edition is shoppable on our @eveningstandardmagazine Instagram Stories (just swipe up to buy) and our website, standard.co.uk/esmagazine. Enjoy!
EDITOR Laura Weir
COVER Slick photographed by David Roemer. Styled by Jenny Kennedy. FENDI earrings, £395; suit jacket, £2,790 (fendi.com). Necklaces, Slick’s own
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PRADA double cashgora coat, £3,080 (prada. com)
THE COAT ‘If clothes could speak then she would be the best friend on speed dial that is ALWAYS ready for a glass of fizz and a fag on a Thursday night (it gets cold on the smoking terrace, hence the cuffs).’
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THE BOOT ‘Streamlined, elegant, with a shapely almond toe, but not too sweet — these are an ideal pair of autumn boots.’
THE JACKET ‘I missed out on the Balenciaga one, but this is better: the perfect checked, double-breasted blazer with a hefty dose of nip-and-tuck in the right places.’ MULBERRY Grace jacket, £1,100 (mulberry.com)
THE TOP ‘I mainly like this top because it’s called the ‘Dave’, which makes me laugh every time I wear it to any manner of meetings — it’s a real go-to.’
ROLAND MOURET Dave top, £575, at net-a-porter.com
JIMMY CHOO Daize boot, £875, at matchesfashion.com
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THE BAG ‘Who doesn’t love a fun bag?’
PAUL SMITH Pow faux fur clutch, £275 (paulsmith.com)
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The editor’s top five new season buys
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@ESmagofficial
@ESmagofficial
Editor Laura Weir Deputy editor Anna van Praagh Features director Alice-Azania Jarvis Acting art director Wendy Tee Fashion features director Katrina Israel Commissioning editor Dipal Acharya Associate features editor Hamish MacBain Features writer Frankie McCoy
Acting art editor Andy Taylor Art editor Jessica Landon Picture editor Helen Gibson Picture desk assistant Clara Dorrington
Jonny Cochrane
Beauty editor Katie Service Deputy beauty and lifestyle editor Lily Worcester
Social media editor Natalie Salmon Office administrator/editor’s PA Niamh O’Keeffe
Merchandise editor Sophie Paxton Fashion editor Jenny Kennedy Fashion assistant Eniola Dare Chief sub editor Matt Hryciw Deputy chief sub editor Nick Howells
Contributing editors Lucy Carr-Ellison, Tony Chambers, James Corden, Hermione Eyre, Richard Godwin, Daisy Hoppen, Jemima Jones, Anthony Kendal, David Lane, Mandi Lennard, Annabel Rivkin, Teo van den Broeke, Nicky Yates (style editor at large), Hikari Yokoyama Group client strategy director Deborah Rosenegk Head of magazines Christina Irvine
ES Magazine is published weekly and is available only with the London Evening Standard. ES Magazine is published by Evening Standard Ltd, Northcliffe House, 2 Derry Street, Kensington, London W8 5TT. ES is printed web offset by Wyndeham Bicester. Paper supplied by Perlen Paper AG. Colour transparencies or any other material submitted to ES Magazine are sent at owner’s risk. Neither Evening Standard Ltd nor their agents accept any liability for loss or damage. © Evening Standard Ltd 2016. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of ES Magazine without prior permission of the editor is strictly prohibited
15.09.17 ES MAGAZINE 15
LOEWE T-shirt, £225 (loewe.com)
MARNI earrings, £280, at matchesfashion.com
trendwatch Plastic fantastic
Turning Circles Dress up jeans with a pair of high-shine, attentiongrabbing earrings.
Suck It Retire the slogan T-shirt and replace with a graphic print. Clearly, the more abstract the better.
ECCO purse, £99.99 (gb.ecco.com)
Weekday Wallet Form meets function with this understated leather purse. PRADA cap, £250, at browns fashion.com
Bakerboy Beau Corduroy is back and this cap has plenty of 1970s street cred.
LEVI’S jeans, £110 (levi.com)
Cult Classic Peg your winter denim update to a timeless straight leg. MIU MIU coat, £1,515 (020 7409 0900)
Come rain or shine, this wash-and-wear overcoat is set to become an autumn style staple. Just Windex and go
OMEGA watch, £5,600 (omegawatches.com)
Mother of Pearl This baby blue timepiece has been a horology classic for six decades and counting.
Rigid Composure Hide your life secrets in this polished handbag.
Natasha Pszenicki
Miu Miu aw17
COACH shoe, £275 (uk.coach.com)
PANDORA rings, £35 each (pandora.net)
Ring Around Can’t pick a favourite metal? Wear all three shades at once.
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Pimp my Ride These retro loafers are elevated by a platform sole and floral appliqués. Walk on the wild side.
FENDI bag, £1,720 (fendi.com)
The Clincher Mid-rise jeans call for the return of the belt. Buckle up with some serious hardware.
RIVER ISLAND belt, £12 (riverisland.com)
Glamour personified: Joan Collins leaves Annabel’s nightclub in London, 1987
POWER HUNGRY Shoulder pads! Big sleeves! The spirit of the Eighties is back on the catwalk. About time, says Dame Joan Collins
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Dynasty years: at home in LA in 1983
TIBI AW17
ELLERY AW17
ISABEL MARANT AW17
Rex; Getty
With Marisa Berenson in 1986, above; with goddaughter Cara Delevingne in 2014, below; and in London last year, right
ust when I thought today’s modern fashion couldn’t get any more hideous, along comes a whiff of sensibility: the return of so-called ‘power-dressing’ for AW17, à la Dynasty. So, hello and welcome back even bigger sleeves (Balenciaga, Tibi), small waists (Saint Laurent, Isabel Marant) and comfortable trouser suits (Ellery and Calvin Klein). Clothes that flatter a real woman’s body. ‘Excruciatingly tasteless’ is a common assessment of the Eighties in recent years, but I’ve always felt the decade was unfairly maligned and argue that overall, it was very becoming. Granted, Eighties fashion eventually degenerated into cartoon clothes such as floppy dolman-sleeved sweaters worn over massive shoulder pads, faux Chanel jackets covered in
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Absolute Eighties: Collins, far right, and the Dynasty cast in 1981
“After I wore a suit in Dynasty, a producer sent me a memo to the effect of, ‘Don’t wear that again — it’s you we want to see, not your f***ing shoulder pads’”
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n the Eighties, Dynasty became the most popular series on prime-time TV, not least because of the gorgeous and glamorous outfits created by Nolan Miller for all the actresses. I enjoyed working with Nolan, helping to create the elegant and stylish outfits for my character, Alexis Carrington Colby. When Alexis had to command groups of men, either in her office or the boardroom, she needed to look feminine but ruthless. The look empowered women and, across the world, career women were taking to tailored suits and well-coiffed, lacquered hair. Power-dressing even proved true for me in the Nineties, when I fought the Goliath that was Random House in a real-life US courtroom drama to protect my reputation as a writer, after they tried to take away an advance they had given me for a book.
STELLA MCCARTNEY AW17
Trendsetter: Princess Diana in the US, 1985, and in Hong Kong, 1989, below
was a fine line who borrowed from whom. I like to think that we collaborated in upping the stakes of that glamorous decade. That’s not to say I didn’t go too far sometimes. In Paris, I bought an extremely avant-garde suit from Pierre Cardin with I appeared each day in enormously high angel-shaped court wearing subdued sleeves that practically covered colours and sober and my cheeks. I wore the suit in an simple outfits. I looked episode of Dynasty but a problem and felt vulnerable, and emerged when I had to answer a was bullied and harassed phone, and struggled getting the by the elderly prosecutor receiver to my ear. Our esteemed (who I thought was a total producer sent me a memo the chauvinist, by the way). I next day to the effect of, ‘Don’t eventually burst into wear that jacket again — it’s Power-dressing: Collins’ tears because I felt so you we want to see, not your lawsuit victory in 1996 i nt i m id at e d , a nd I f***ing shoulder pads.’ thought I was losing the Skimming through case. The next day, a lawyer friend sugthe August issues of gested I ‘become Alexis’ both in attitude glossy, trendsetting and outfit and stand up to Mr Prosecutor, so magazines, I couldn’t I did just that. find anything to wear I put on a vibrant blue pin-striped that would suit me, so skirt suit, a statement pearl I’m delighted that choker and white, V-necked silk there is a return to sogilet and I immediately felt, and called Eighties fashconsequently behaved, confiion. I say ‘so-called’ dently and assertively. I was because all fashion is suddenly totally in charge, cyclical and, in fact, telling the old man not those broad shoulders to come near me, to stop and cinched waists intimidating me and were all the rage in overall calling the shots the Forties, as worn in the cross-examinaby legendary film stars like tion. I believed my Joan Crawford and Lauren clothes were my armour Bacall. In fact, the Forties is a and I won the case. well-admired decade fashionPrincess Diana was also wise, which is why I find it curious that at the forefront of wearing so-called fashionistas have constantly trendsetting outfits of that decderided the Eighties. ade and I must confess that I have never stopped wearing shoulder Nolan and I sometimes borpads, big sleeves and long earrings. I strongly rowed a few of her ‘looks’ from believe, as did the iconic Claudette Colbert pictures in magazines and and Bacall, that if you find a style that suits newsreels. Although since she was you, you stick with it, because fashion is given the moniker ‘Dynasty Di’, it ephemeral but style is eternal.
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BALENCIAGA AW17
bling and dozens of gold military buttons. But at least no one went out in pyjamas.
Collins with the Queen at a reception at Buckingham Palace in 2014, the year before she was made a dame
THE HIKE OF FASHION
The hills are alive with style-setters in boots made for walking — and striking a pose, says Richard Gray
illustration BY anna bu kliewer
‘H
iking is the new yoga,’ says Sarah Andelman, the buyer at the cult Parisian store, Colette. She has just conquered ‘yet another mountain in the Catskills’ for her summer holiday. And she’s not on her own. ‘I’m obsessed with hiking,’ says Love magazine editor-in-chief and fashion stylist for Miu Miu, Katie Grand, who
goes off-road every summer. ‘It’s my chance to unplug.’ Unplug is the right term, agrees author of On Time: Finding Your Pace in a World Addicted to Fast, Catherine Blyth. ‘If you are under pressure or feel there is never enough time,’ she says, ‘switching off the phone and heading out for a stroll — preferably in sight of something green and natural — changes your sense of time, literally re-engaging you
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MATTY BOVAN MATTY BOVAN Fashion East’s catwalk mix-master clashes textures and prints to wild effect.
DANSE LENTE
YOUNGWON KIM Modern lines define this covetable handbag brand that landed in January and is already stocked at Net-A-Porter and Selfridges.
MATTY BOVAN AW17
£410, at net-aporter.com
MATTY BOVAN AW17
£441, at farfetch.com
£295, at moda operandi.com
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Slick Woods is the coolest model in the world right now. Fact. Jane Mulkerrins meets the free-spirited star to talk drugs, jail and conquering the catwalks
l s i c k ‘I PhotographS BY David Roemer stylED BY Jenny Kennedy
see myself being a new-age Black Panther, doing things that are really important. I see myself changing the world,’ Slick Woods tells me, with no discernible hint of hyperbole. ‘I see myself as the reincarnation of Tupac.’ I must look slightly confused by this second declaration, as she proceeds to explain: ‘1996, baby.’ The year the iconic rapper was shot dead and the year she was born. Confidence, clearly, is not something Woods was dealt in short supply. But if she sounds brazen and immodest, who, really, could blame her? In an industry renowned for impenetrable elitism and unattainable standards of beauty, the 21-year-old model is gleefully subverting the system. Shaven-headed, gap-toothed and heavily tattooed, the rebel with a potty mouth and a serious penchant for weed is the hottest property in fashion right now. She is the face of Fenty, Rihanna’s collection with Puma, is beloved by Jeremy Scott — creative director at Moschino, for which she fronts the current campaign — and will be walking this season for labels including Marc Jacobs and Miu Miu. She has been shot for the 2017 Pirelli calendar alongside Naomi Campbell and Lupita Nyong’o, and for Italian, Japanese and American Vogue. All of which is even more impressive when you consider that, two years ago, she was living in a ‘traphouse’ (a property where drugs are
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Add a heavy metal accent with Acne Studios’ statement aluminium earrings ACNE STUDIOS Ana earrings, £130 (acnestudios.com). Necklaces, Slick’s own
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Johnny Coca crosses the line at Mulberry with a directional spin on classic checks MULBERRY waistcoat, £2,080; skirt, £920 (mulberry.com). JIMMY CHOO boots, £1,250 (jimmychoo.com)
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Balenciaga followed suit with a similarly avant-garde asymmetrical houndstooth coat BALENCIAGA coat, £1,885; top, £1,295; boots, £1,445 (balenciaga.com). ACNE STUDIOS Ana earrings, as before
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