09.06.17
menswear edition grace wales bonner
The woman shaping men’s fashion
Barre flies
Hanging out with London’s ballet boys
Curiouser & bi-curiouser
Charlie Gilmour’s sexual awakening
Plus: The modern dandy’s little
black book and how to wear this season’s trends
jared leto An intimate audience with a counterculture icon
contents HAVAIANAS espadrilles, £30 (havaianas-store.com)
7 Menswear, Moriarty and makes-ya-think art in CAPITAL GAINS 8 Laura Craik on holiday dressing down in UPFRONT 10 Our MOST WANTED are Camper’s kicking trainers 12 Alexa Chung can do no wrong in FLASHBULB 15 From tartan to skatewear, the MEN’S TRENDS to know 21 Designer beats and grooming treats in MEN’S STYLE 22 Just JARED LETO: Oscar-winner, fashion muse, rock climber COVER Jared Leto photographed by Cedric Buchet. Styled by Jenny Kennedy. DIOR HOMME blazer, £980 (020 7355 5930). VERSACE top, £430 (versace.com). CARRERA sunglasses, £116, at eyewearbrands.com
30 London’s hottest BALLET BOYS take a bow
GRACE WALES BONNER , menswear maven 38 What it means to be HETEROFLEXIBLE 43 Your essential grooming guide in BEAUTY 45 GRACE & FLAVOUR embraces salad days
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at Maple & King’s
Here are the ES team’s top five summertime men’s fashion must-haves
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the shoes ‘These classic espadrilles are perfect to hide the toes away during the warm weather.’ Eniola Dare, fashion assistant
47 Viva la España with TART’s chorizo stew
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49 Sensible sipping in DRINKS 50 Dermot O’Leary’s MY LONDON
the bag ‘Red alert — this rucksack by Dior Homme is a must-have for the season.’ Jenny Kennedy, fashion editor
Belstaff sunglasses , £165 (belstaff.com)
the sunglasses ‘Belstaff has just launched eyewear and these lightweight aviators are handmade in Japan and fitted with premium Zeiss lenses.’ Katrina Israel, fashion features director
DIOR HOMME Newave rucksack, £1,150 (dior.com)
2 etro straw Panama hat, £155, at mrporter.com
the hat ‘The Panama is a classic holiday essential, and this one with a sunny peach and red trim transports me to central Havana before I’ve even stepped on the plane.’ Andy Taylor, acting art editor
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the shorts ‘From morning workouts to lunch in the sun, the Orlebar Brown + Bodyism collab Gym to Swim shorts are possibly the most versatile men’s holiday piece to pack.’ Wendy Tee, acting art director
orlebar brown Bellamy Gym to Swim shorts, £125 (orlebarbrown.com)
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Editor Laura Weir Acting Editor Charlotte Ross Deputy editor Anna van Praagh Features director Alice-Azania Jarvis Acting art director Wendy Tee Fashion director Nicky Yates Fashion features director Katrina Israel Commissioning editor Dipal Acharya Beauty editor Katie Service Associate features editor Hamish MacBain Features writer Frankie McCoy Lifestyle assistant Lily Worcester
Art editor Jessica Landon Picture editor Helen Gibson Picture desk assistant Clara Dorrington Social media editor Natalie Salmon Office administrator/editor’s PA Niamh O’Keeffe
Merchandise editor Sophie Paxton Fashion editor Jenny Kennedy Fashion assistant Eniola Dare Chief sub editor Matt Hryciw
Contributing editors Lucy Carr-Ellison, Tony Chambers, James Corden, Hermione Eyre, Richard Godwin, Daisy Hoppen, Jemima Jones, Anthony Kendal, David Lane, Annabel Rivkin, Teo van den Broeke, Hikari Yokoyama Group client strategy director Deborah Rosenegk Head of magazines Christina Irvine
ES Magazine is published weekly and is available only with the London Evening Standard. ES Magazine is published by Evening Standard Ltd, Northcliffe House, 2 Derry Street, Kensington, London W8 5TT. ES is printed web offset by Wyndeham Bicester. Paper supplied by Perlen Paper AG. Colour transparencies or any other material submitted to ES Magazine are sent at owner’s risk. Neither Evening Standard Ltd nor their agents accept any liability for loss or damage. © Evening Standard Ltd 2016. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of ES Magazine without prior permission of the editor is strictly prohibited
09.06.17 es magazine
LOU DALTON jacket, POA (loudalton.com). SUNSPEL vest, £30 (sunspel.com). GUCCI necklace, £220 (gucci.com)
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do not dive lightly ‘Iinto the abyss any more’ Oscar-winner. Rock star. Style icon. Is there anything Jared Leto can’t do? Richard Godwin visits the multi-talented star at home to hear about getting clean, hanging out with Leo and why he doesn’t want children PhotographS BY cedric buchet stylED BY jenny kennedy
J
ared Leto made a three-word resolution for 2017. ‘Don’t. Waste. Time.’ He raps his fist on the table to emphasise each word. He has been reading a book by the Roman Stoic philosopher Seneca on the ‘shortness of life’, he explains, his turquoise eyes shimmering under the California sun. ‘It’s incredible that this guy lived a couple thousand years ago and you read it and it sounds like someone who’s alive right now. We’re on borrowed time. We only have so much energy. It’s important for me to spend it really wisely.’ If Leto, 45, has been pissing around up to this point, you worry what he might accomplish when he gets serious. He has spent a career diving head first into roles — as teen idol, oblivion-seeking hedonist, method actor, emo frontman, rock-climber, start-up founder, fashion plate — and always landing on his feet. He won an Oscar for his turn as an HIVpositive transgender woman in The Dallas Buyers Club in 2014. Soon, he’ll add Denis Villeneuve’s long-awaited Blade Runner sequel to a CV that includes Fight Club,
PRADA jumper, £1,375; trousers, £595 (prada.com). CARRERA 130/S sunglasses,£141, at redhotsunglasses.co.uk
American Psycho and Requiem for a Dream. His most acclaimed roles arrived after he disregarded all Hollywood counsel and spent four years touring with Thirty Seconds to Mars, the band that he started with his brother, Shannon, back in 1998. It stands out among actor side-projects in not being embarrassingly crap, selling 15 million records of pleasingly histrionic arena rock and entering the Guinness World Records for performing 300 shows in one tour. He’s currently mixing their fifth album. ‘It’s easy to write four songs a day, the real work is editing it all down,’ he laments. Leto also serves as chief Instagram muse and confidant to Gucci creative director
Alessandro Michele, and managed to pull off a lilac violet dressing gown at its recent cruise collection show. Today he’s in Carrera ski shades (he’s the brand’s 2017 ambassador) and a ripped T-shirt by the cult Parisian label Enfants Riches Déprimés. He was an early investor in Uber, Airbnb, Nest and Reddit, and in 2011 founded the live-streaming service VyRT. He scales 3,000ft cliff faces in Joshua Tree National Park to wind down from this. And even his tomfoolery is nextlevel — he once sent some anal beads and a dead pig to Margot Robbie and the rest of his Suicide Squad castmates to get in the zone to play The Joker in the twisted superhero film. You might put his industriousness down
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Raising the barre Modelling this season’s hottest trends, London’s top male ballet dancers talk to Dipal Acharya about power breakfasts, Netflix addictions and the songs that get them on the dance floor PhotographS BY ELLIOT KENNEDY stylED BY ROSE FORD
thiago soares
Soares’ rise to principal at The Royal Ballet has been a colourful one. The 36-year-old Brazilian began his training not at the barre but at circus school in Rio where he ‘learnt all the basics of movement and acrobatics’. A brief stint with a local hip-hop crew followed, during which a choreographer encouraged him to apply to Rio’s Centre for Dance. Since then, Soares has performed with St Petersburg’s Mariinsky Ballet and the Bolshoi — ‘My first big role was Solor in La Bayadère. I was full of energy. I was like a little animal.’ He eventually joined The Royal Ballet in 2002, where he partnered with Marianela Nuñez — both on stage and off — becoming one half of the RB’s golden couple (the pair divorced in 2015 but remain on good terms). Next up, Soares is the subject of a new HBO documentary by director Felipe Braga, which is out later this year. What’s your pre-performance ritual? ‘Eating bananas. On show day it can be as many as eight. I’m like a monkey.’
DIOR HOMME trousers, £530 (dior.com). Jewellery, Soares’ own
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e isaac hernandez
Having come from a dancing family — both his parents were dancers in Guadalajara, and of his 10 siblings his brother Esteban now dances with the San Francisco Ballet — Mexican Isaac Hernández is at the vanguard of a wave of talented Latin American dancers who have taken the capital by storm (and is rumoured to have stolen fellow ENB star Tamara Rojo’s heart). ‘To have an internationally known career at my age has created a lot of opportunities for me to raise the profile of dance back home,’ he says. To prove this point, Hernández has curated a show this summer in Mexico City, which will bring together 14 companies and perform to a crowd of 10,000 people. Does it ever feel daunting? ‘It’s been three years since I’ve been back in Mexico City, but it’s home so I felt it was important to go back.’ What’s your one indulgence? ‘I love a good burger — perhaps the result of living in America for 10 years. The one at Burger & Lobster is my favourite.’
DRIES VAN NOTEN coat, £1,000; shorts, £300 (driesvannoten.com). HOMME PLISSE ISSEY MIYAKE top, £135 (020 7851 4620)
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my london
dermot o’leary as told to lily worcester
Home is… The front garden is Primrose Hill and the back garden is Camden. My wife and I have been there for five years and I love it — it’s got a sense of community, but in that London ‘mind your own business’ way.
Most romantic thing someone has done for you? My wife once got me a ride in a Spitfire (above). What would you do as Mayor for the day? I’d give all Uber drivers the day off on full pay. Earliest London memory? I was five and running down my auntie’s street in Queen’s Park and the elastic in my shorts gave out and my pants fell down... it was awful.
Last play you saw? Recently I’ve seen Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf? (Imelda Staunton, above, is such a great actor) and Hamlet — Andrew Scott was something else, I love watching that guy work.
Favourite London discoveries? Camden Coffee Shop, a tiny little hole in the wall run by a guy called George. You can only buy beans and the machinery is as beautiful as the coffee. Best meal you’ve had in London? I love eating out. I don’t care about how expensive or hip it is, it’s all about authenticity for me. For fish I go to Bentley’s or J Sheekey, I’m loving Temper at the moment and Bocca di Lupo is an old favourite.
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The TV presenter gets pasta from Lina Stores, plays football in Brixton and heads to Milroy’s basement bar for late-night whisky Last album you bought? Billie Marten’s Writing of Blues and Yellows; it’s this beautifully written, melodic piece of work. Which shops do you rely on? Wow… this is an ‘open a bottle of red and have a chat’ sort of a question. Lina Stores (below) the Italian deli in Soho, does great pasta; my barber Joe and Co; and the fishmonger La Petite Poissonnerie in Marylebone. I cook a lot so this place is a lifesaver and Nic who runs it is a legend.
Who do you call when you want to have fun? Moonman (Neil McCallum) or Joe and the gang — they’re my oldest friends in London. We hold seasonal supper clubs and the stakes are always so high. It’s my turn to host the summer one shortly; I’m quietly confident! Where would you go for a nightcap? The downstairs bar at Milroy’s of Soho whisky shop is a terrific spot.
Where do you go to let you hair down? I’ve had some of my best nights out in the Brixton Academy. I also play football once a week in Brixton and have just started Psycle in Fitzrovia. There’s nothing like getting a good sweat on. Best piece of advice? From my old boss Phil EdgarJones: ‘Turn up on time, don’t be a dick.’ Best thing a cabbie has said to you? Desmond, I loved you on that show... Ever had a run in with a policeman? Only to pet his horse. 24.hr Grooming for Men by Dermot O’Leary is available exclusively at M&S (marksandspencer.com)
Alamy; Getty Images
First thing you do when you arrive back in London? There’s something about Soho that always draws me in; it’s Mayfair and Fitzrovia’s naughty cousin. I’m a TV boy, so I’ve spent most of my working life there.
Biggest extravagance? Thom Sweeney suits and Arsenal season tickets.