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V OL U M E 1 5

GREECE / MOROCCO / SABA / SINGAPORE By

BEAUTY IN BARBADOS Come for the pristine beaches, stay for the Caribbean island’s vibrant culture

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What’s Inside

Contributors

In Brief

From our Editorial Director

9 What’s new and notable in the world of travel.

Packing List

14 Coastal-ready pieces for a stylish getaway on the water.

Will Travel For

16 A seafood salad that captures the flavors of the Bahamas.

Interview

19 We chat with Palestinian author Aziz Abu Sarah.

On the Cover Local guide Georgina Callender poses in front of a colorful door in Bridgetown, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, wearing traditional folk dress. Photo by Junior Sealy

Roundup

20 Soar above the sights on four iconic hot-air balloon rides.

Viewpoint

22 Why the beach may be one of the last neutral places on Earth.

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PHOTOS: CHARLIE VENABLES/UNSPLASH (OCEAN); IGOR SPORYNIN/UNSPLASH (GOING PLACES).

Going Places

PHOTOS: KATIE SEHL (FEATURES); COURTESY OF MUSEUM OF OLD AND NEW ART (WHERE NEXT).

Features

Where Next

Diving into Saba

26 In the deep water surrounding the tiny island of Saba, scuba divers have uncovered a world of untouched marine life.

Barbados Beyond the Beach

Try This

32 Join managing editor Simone Olivero as she learns about the island nation’s rich history and vibrant culture (monkeys, included).

58 Discover the heart of Crete through pottery, wine and an encounter with a cuddly goat.

Port of Call

60 Everything you need to plan your pre- or post-cruise stay in Singapore.

Taking It Cay by Cay

40 A journey through Saint Vincent and the Grenadines will bring you across land, sea and air.

The Many Tiles of Marrakech

Itinerary

54 Upscale restaurants, a provocative gallery and more: Here’s how to spend 24 hours in Hobart, Australia.

44 Photographer Alex Crétey Systermans explores the palaces, gardens and historic buildings where Morocco’s signature zellige tiles take center stage.

Exclusive Offers

65 Find a range of itineraries from Ensemble partners.

Outtake

72 One more moment in travel.

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2 Q U E E N S T R E E T E A S T, 1 8 T H F L O O R TORONTO, ON M5C 2G7 EDITORIAL Editorial Director

Dominique Lamberton Managing Editor

PRODUCTION Senior Director, Brand & Marketing

Valerie Lenoir Marketing Coordinator

Simone Olivero

Harshika Singh

Managing Editor, Digital

Robert Liwanag

SALES Senior Director, Partnership Marketing & Engagement

ART Creative Design Director

Danielle Clement

Stefanie Sosiak

Senior Director, Partner Relations (Hotels)

Photography Director

Lori Morgan

Kim Kearns

CONTRIBUTORS Erica Commisso, Christian Heurtelou, Renée Morrison, Jody Robbins, Alessandro Sarno, Junior Sealy, Katie Sehl, Claire Sibonney, Alex Crétey Systermans, Doug Wallace

President

Michael Johnson SVP, Marketing

Shahla Lalani SVP, Operations

Kristina Boyce SVP, Commercial

Daniel Finkel VP, Member Relations

Mark Stubbert VP, Cruise

Director, Partnership Marketing (Land)

Rachel Grogan

Franca Iuele

VP, Destination & Specialty Partnerships

Director, Partner Relations (Destination & Tourism Boards)

Amy Bailey

Kateryna Havrylova

RESEARCHERS Tara Dupuis, Corinna Reeves

Senior Manager, Partner Relations (Cruise)

COPY EDITOR Christopher Korchin

Senior Manager, Partner Relations (DMC, Car, Rail & Specialty)

Jocelyn Saldana

Kristine Liao

PROOFREADER Diane Carlson

Publisher

Jeff Willner

Manager, Partner Relations (Cruise)

Nicole Baker

What is Ensemble?

Ensemble is a leading travel organization comprised of top-tier travel agencies throughout the U.S. and Canada. As a valued client of one of our member agencies, you gain access to exclusive perks, amenities and experiences as well as expert advice and exceptional customer service from the foremost authorities in the travel industry. ensembletravel.com

Read more Range online rangetravel.com

Range: Volume 15 (Fall 2026). All rights reserved, Ensemble Travel Ltd. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise duplicated without the permission of the publisher. Range is published on behalf of Ensemble Travel Ltd. member agencies. TICO: #50022140 | CST: 2141530-70

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Registration numbers vary by agency. Advertising and marketing inquiries can be sent to marketing@ensembletravel.com For editorial inquiries, please email range@ensembletravel.com

Contributors

Renée Morrison

Doug Wallace

WRITER

Hometown and home base Montreal

PHOTOS: JAMAR SILVA ( JUNIOR SEALY); DAVID LEYES (DOUG WALLACE).

I never travel without my goldtoned Casio watch, which I bought while strolling through Montpellier, France. My grandfather wore a similar one. I keep it set to the time zone back home, so I always know when to call. When I’m not writing for Range, I write about travel, wellness and food for Afar, Offshore Magazine and Experience. I also enjoy lake-hopping on my paddleboard in Quebec’s Laurentians and spending time outdoors with my daughter. The Power of the Beach — page 22

Junior Sealy P H OTO G R A P H E R Hometown and home base Bathsheba, Barbados The sun destination that’s still on my bucket list is Bahia, Brazil. It has a strong cultural history that would be lovely to explore. I yearn for a place with great food, color and a rhythm that will force me to dance in the streets. When I’m not shooting for Range, I contribute to publications like Harper’s Bazaar, make music, manage a few businesses and take care of my mom and adopted son.

Hometown Pilot Mound, Manitoba Home base Toronto My earliest travel memory is visiting Badlands National Park in South Dakota at the age of five, where I received a pair of black, hand-tooled cowboy boots that I didn’t take off all summer. When I’m not writing for Range, I write about travel, food and wine for The Globe and Mail, the Toronto Star and BOLD Magazine. You can also find me at the beach, in the kitchen, practicing yoga or writing humor essays for fun. A Perfect Day in Hobart — page 54

Barbados Beyond the Beach — page 32

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UNLIKE THE REST Defined by Detail Whether you seek quiet moments, new friends, or the pleasure of simply doing nothing at all, days and nights unfold through a series of spaces designed for comfort and ease. Every detail finds its place, and so do you.

Contact your Ensemble travel advisor and enjoy exclusive Ensemble amenities.

PHOTO: ALLISON SETO.

Beneath the Surface I’ve always been captivated by the Caribbean. Growing up in landlocked Alberta, Canada, films that transported me to tropical islands edged with aquamarine coastlines (like 1993’s Cool Runnings) had an outsized effect. My first Caribbean destination was Saint Lucia. On the volcanic isle, I was introduced to the region’s verdant landscapes (snorkeling beneath the iconic Pitons), lively nightlife (dancing at the Friday-night Gros Islet Street Party) and that signature turquoise-water, white-sand combination that made me do a double take. But it wasn’t until I visited Martinique, on assignment for Range, that I fully grasped the breadth of history and diversity within the Caribbean islands. My first stop in the French Overseas Territory was La Savane des Esclaves. Built by local Gilbert Larose, the open-air museum walks visitors through 400 years of history, recreating everything from what life would have looked like for the Indigenous Kalinago people before French colonization to the living conditions of enslaved Africans up to the mid-19th century to rural lifestyles post abolition. With Indigenous, African, European and Asian heritages, the Caribbean is one of the most multicultural regions on Earth. Wandering Larose’s 7.4-acre park was a reminder of how much there is to discover. There are times when you simply want a sunny stretch of sand to relax on. But when a beach destination offers more, that’s the best kind of all-inclusive vacation. Managing editor Simone Olivero experienced this on her recent trip to Barbados, which she chronicles in our cover story (page 32). She set out envisioning swaying palms and sugary sand — while Barbados delivers this, Simone spent most of her time meeting locals (like our cover star, Georgina Callender) who shared their stories, history and culture, resulting in a far richer trip. The way Simone toured Barbados is how Aziz Abu Sarah, who I spoke to for the Interview (page 19), recommends all travelers explore. The Palestinian author, peacemaker and entrepreneur is known for pioneering a “dual narrative” approach with his company Mejdi Tours, offering itineraries with multiple perspectives in places from Northern Ireland to Israel and Palestine. “If a trip has a single story, look for what’s missing,” he says. Whether you’re headed to the beach or elsewhere, here’s to going deeper — and leaving with more. 

Dominique Lamberton Editorial Director

Visit us online! Find more immersive stories, plus expertly curated travel guides and exclusive offers, at rangetravel.com

@RangebyEnsemble

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travel that

sets you

Every traveler is different – and so are Globus touring styles. Whether you crave fully guided Classics, the intimacy of a Small Group Discovery, the flexibility of Independent tours and City Stays or the thrill of going Undiscovered, our touring styles are designed to fit your travel personality perfectly.

HIDDEN TREASURES OF SOUTHERN ITALY | UNDISCOVERED 9 days—Naples to Alberobello Area In the Apulia region, known for its centuries-old farmland, whitewashed towns, and miles of scenic coastline, the water is bluer, the produce is fresher, and the pace is delightfully slower.

PORTUGAL IN DEPTH | CLASSIC 11 days—roundtrip from Lisbon With its refreshing Atlantic breezes and live-life-to the-fullest Mediterranean ways, the sun-drenched country of Portugal invites you to dip your toe—and entire body—into a sea of relaxation.

INDEPENDENT PERU HIGHLIGHTS | INDEPENDENT 8 days—roundtrip from Lima Timeless temples, textiles, and tantalizing dishes are all on the menu on this free-spirited sojourn in Peru, including the I-time you crave to explore on your own.

CAPTIVATING SPAIN | SMALL GROUP DISCOVERY 9 days—Madrid to Barcelona Journey Madrid to Barcelona, exploring Hemingway’s inspiration, Granada’s Alhambra, Valencia’s Moorish heritage and paella, with exclusive small group experiences beyond traditional tours.

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details.

TEXT: DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON. PHOTO: JUSTIN HEAP/UNSPLASH.

GOING PLACES

ON TREND

When Day Turns to Night On certain trips, like beach vacations, watching the sunset is a daily highlight. “Dusking” takes this ritual a step further: A Dutch practice, it involves slowing down and connecting with your surroundings as the day transitions to night. Dusking can be done anywhere, but, like watching the sun go down on a sandy shore, some destinations offer more striking backdrops as you take in the sights and sounds at twilight. Try dusking in seaside towns (on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, for instance), amid natural wonders (such as the Grand Canyon or Jordan’s Wadi Rum desert) or in historic cities (stroll along Kyoto’s Shirakawa Canal or grab a seat on one of Lisbon’s terraced viewpoints to soak it all in).

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IN BRIEF

NEW AND NOTEWORTHY

Go Deeper with National Geographic G Adventures is entering the luxury market, teaming up with National Geographic to launch a collection of high-end, in-depth itineraries focused on immersive cultural experiences, meaningful local connections and “Signature Moments” — all while accomodating guests at some of the world’s most lavish properties. On the National Geographic Signature tour of Morocco, for example, travelers will get introduced to the ancient art of hikayat (storytelling) while exploring the medina through the eyes of a master storyteller, then retreat to The Oberoi, Marrakech, a grand five-star hotel surrounded by citrus orchards and olive groves.

LOCAL LINGO

El mar lo cura todo While the multibillion-dollar wellness travel industry continues to boom, fueled by trends like biohacking and contrast therapy, the Spanish have long lived by a simple rule: El mar lo cura todo (the sea heals everything). Whether you’re dipping your toes or diving in, cruising aboard a vessel or simply enjoying the view from shore, studies have shown that spending time in, on or around the ocean can have a positive effect on everything from the physical body to mental health. Time to book that coastal getaway.

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TEXT: SIMONE OLIVERO. PHOTOS: BELLA FALK FOR G ADVENTURES (NEW AND NOTEWORTHY); CHARLIE VENABLES/UNSPLASH (LOCAL LINGO).

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IN BRIEF

NOW OPEN

The Rimrock in Banff, Alberta, already had an epic location, nestled into Sulphur Mountain high above the alpine resort town. Now, following a $115-million renovation, the property’s interior is as impressive as its exterior. Rebranded as Rimrock Banff, Emblems Collection, the hotel puts an emphasis on well-being with guest rooms that feature gym and recovery equipment, a 9,600-squarefoot thermal spa with a mountain-facing infinity pool and four new food and beverage venues, including the Listening Lounge, where you can relax with a nightcap and your choice of vinyl after a day spent hiking the trails that set out right from the hotel’s doorstep.

MUST-HAVE E

Whipped to Protect

TO R - T

TED

TEXT: DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON (NOW OPEN); SIMONE OLIVERO (MUST-HAVE, ARTS AND CULTURE). PHOTOS: COURTESY OF RIMROCK BANFF, EMBLEMS COLLECTION (NOW OPEN); COURTESY OF VACATION (MUST-HAVE); COURTESY OF LUCAS MUSEUM OF NARRATIVE ART (ARTS AND CULTURE).

A Revamp for the Rimrock

Applying sunscreen has never been so easy — or so much fun. This novel product from Vacation, a brand lauded for its retro-style packaging and addictive-smelling formulas, has the look and feel of whipped cream — complete with the can and nozzle — and a sun protection factor of 50. Formulated with aloe vera, coconut oil, vitamin E and niacinamide, the light and airy mousse is hydrating and easy to apply, with a dreamy coconut aroma (just don’t be tempted to give it a taste). Classic Whip SPF 50, US$23, vacation.inc

ARTS AND CULTURE

Three New Innovative Museums LUCAS MUSEUM OF NARRATIVE ART, LOS ANGELES This museum in south L.A. explores themes like family, love, work and play through the private collection of filmmaker George Lucas, with everything from film archives to paintings by Frida Kahlo on display.

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SUZHOU MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, CHINA Located on the shores of Jinji Lake with a design inspired by classical Suzhou gardens, this sprawling museum opens in late 2026 with dedicated exhibition galleries, educational spaces and a lakeside theater.

LONDON MUSEUM Housed in Smithfield’s General Market building, this free-tovisit museum is set to open in November, featuring a display dedicated to the Great Fire of London in 1666 and a train-viewing window where you can spot real-life commuters on the Thameslink line.

GOING PLACES

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IN BRIEF

CHECKING IN

The undergrad lifestyle is trending, and Hilton is taking note. In 2027, the hotel chain will open the first property under its new Undergraduate by Hilton brand, a collection of upper-midscale hotels in college and university towns, designed to serve everyone from students and families to alumni, sports fans and business travelers. An offshoot of the boutique Graduate by Hilton, Undergraduate hotels will have social spaces with an off-campus feel, dedicated study corners in guest rooms and 24-hour markets where you can fuel up on late-night snacks and cocktails that capture the spirit of your favorite college dive bar. Class dismissed.

READING LIST

Crack Open a New Vacation Read HOLLYWOOD, ENDING BY JOHN GREEN In his first foray into adult fiction, John Green, who’s known for his young-adult fiction (The Fault in Our Stars) and adult non-fiction (The Anthropocene Reviewed), follows young actors Kai and Juniper as they navigate fame and feelings while filming an Andy Warhol biopic.

BIG LITTLE TRUTHS BY LIANE MORIARTY It’s been more than a decade since Big Little Lies was published, and in this sequel the story also jumps ahead 10 years. Madeline, Celeste, Jane, Renata and Bonnie are each facing challenges as they raise teenagers — what little truths are they hiding from them?

A THOUSAND LITTLE GOODBYES BY LUCY GILMORE Planning a road trip? This novel from the author of The Lonely Hearts Book Club is the perfect companion, chronicling best friends Chrissie and Scarlett’s journey across the U.S. and the surprises, and heartbreak, that accompany them.

CRUISE NEWS

Step Ashore for Wellness Tai chi at a monastery in Vietnam. Kandyan dance therapy in Sri Lanka. A soak in Patagonian hot springs in Chile. These are just a few of the more than 50 Wellness Discovery Tours that Oceania Cruises has introduced in destinations across Asia, Europe and South America. A response to both the skillcation (learning a new skill while traveling) and wellness travel trends, this new collection of small-group experiences encourages passengers to find connection through local culture and traditions in their ports of call. Back on board, keep up the mindfulness with programming from yoga classes to creative art workshops.

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TEXT: SIMONE OLIVERO (CHECKING IN); DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON (READING LIST, CRUISE NEWS). PHOTOS: COURTESY OF UNDERGRADUATE BY HILTON (CHECKING IN); COURTESY OF SOURCEBOOKS INC. (READING LIST); XPACIFICA/GETTY IMAGES (CRUISE NEWS).

Hilton Goes Back to School

Oceania Sonata

™

A SY M P HO NY O F LUX U RY

THE NEXT EVOLUTION ON THE OCEANIA CRUISES FLEET

Oceania Sonata invites you to discover the world in perfect cadence. A true masterpiece of design, she will deliver a symphony of unforgettable experiences that captures the essence of reﬁned seagoing luxury. Every detail considered. Every moment uniquely yours.

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PACKING LIST

Anchors Aweigh

Boat Shoes

Crewneck Sweatshirt

Shell Clip

When it comes to boat shoes, Sperry Gold Cup is the gold standard. After falling off his boat, sailor Paul Sperry designed the non-slip shoes, taking inspiration from his dog’s paw pads. Gold Cup Authentic Original 2-Eye Boat Shoe, US$195, sperry.com

This heavyweight cotton sweatshirt by La Paz, a Portuguese menswear label that’s informed by the people and traditions of the Atlantic coast, is a great piece to throw on after the sun dips below the sea. Cunha Sea Soul Ecru, €94, lapaz.pt

You’ll want to shell out for this hair clip: Not only is the silhouette pretty and playful, but the marbled acetate is hand-painted by Solar Eclipse’s allfemale team in its New York studio. Solar Eclipse Hand-Painted Claw Clip, US$28, freepeople.com

Water Wings

Rope Bracelet

Nautical Socks

Keep your tiny swimmer buoyant — in more ways than one — with these inflatables. The seafaring motif and smooth-seam design ensure style and comfort, plus they’re easy to pack. Shirley Swim Wings, €26, liewood.com

Simple yet chic, this bracelet by jewelry brand Pig & Hen — named for the 17th-century sailors who tattooed pigs and hens on their feet for good luck — is crafted from nautical rope. Franky Bracelet, US$99, pighen.com

Whether you’re pairing these socks with boat shoes or not, they’ll give your outfit a subtle maritime vibe. The lived-in feel makes them ideal for pulling on at the end of a beach day. Nautical Beach Break Socks, €30, thunderslove.com

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TEXT: DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON.

From classic boat shoes to a stylish sailor hat, these sea-inspired pieces will add a nautical nod to your coastal getaways.

GOING PLACES

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PACKING LIST

Sailor Hat Ahoy! Channel your inner mariner with this chic chapeau, made of 100-percent cotton and finished with a charming bow. It’s the perfect topper for pool hangs, boat rides or cruise-ship cocktails. Anglo Tie Sailor Hat, US$48, anthropologie.com

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GOING PLACES

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WILL TRAVEL FOR

NASSAU, THE BAHAMAS

A Taste of the Islands

P h o t o s by A l e s s a n d r o S a r n o

On Nassau’s Arawak Cay (lovingly referred to as the “Fish Fry”), writer Erica Commisso discovers how one conch salad stands above the rest.

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GOING PLACES

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WILL TRAVEL FOR

More ways to savor conch ADD FRUIT The tropical conch salad mixes in diced mango, pineapple and goat pepper for a sweet and spicy twist. SAMPLE IT FRIED Bite into the Long Islanders Conchy Conch Fritters, which come in two portion sizes. The deep-fried and battered balls are served hot with calypso sauce, a combo of ketchup, mayo, cane sugar and coconut rum. GET THE PLATTER Taste more Bahamian seafood with a build-yourown platter that includes your choice of lobster, shrimp or conch, and sides like coleslaw, potato salad and mac ’n’ cheese.

I know I’ve arrived when the warm sun hits my face, I feel a cool ocean breeze in my hair and the soothing rhythm of steel drums fills the air. Everything comes together as I raise a spoon to my mouth and my taste buds zing with the bright flavors of orange, lime and briny seafood. It doesn’t get more Bahamian than this. On my first visit to Nassau, locals insisted I make my way to Arawak Cay, a 100-acre man-made island nicknamed the “Fish Fry,” where residents go for a night out or to have a sit-down meal with loved ones. While there are dozens of restaurants to choose from, Drifters at Da’ Fry, which is tucked in near the middle of a row of stalls and eateries, has gained a reputation as the place for a classic Bahamian conch salad. Conch — a tropical marine mollusk — is the Bahamas’ national dish, a staple in its cuisine because of its versatility, accessibility and widely appealing flavor. It’s mild and slightly sweet, almost like a cross between crab and calamari. It’s also revered on the archipelago: There are rules around farming the shellfish to make sure it doesn’t go extinct, so even locals give thanks

to nature’s bounty before tucking into a hearty conch dish. I take a seat on Drifters’ sun-drenched patio, joining a mix of Bahamians and tourists gathering around picnic tables sipping Kalik beer and switcha, a tart Bahamian limeade, from recycled tin cans. Set against the white walls and beachy decor, it’s a classic Caribbean scene where the vibes are high and the fish is as fresh as it gets. Right on cue, a smiling server comes over to take my order: I go for the scorched conch salad. What makes it stand out from the hundreds you’ll encounter across the islands is that the raw conch is “scorched,” or scored, with a knife to tenderize the meat. It’s then chopped into bigger pieces than standard versions, to allow for more flavor, and combined with finely diced tomatoes, onions and bell peppers. A citrus-heavy marinade of lime and orange adds a zesty finishing touch and helps cut through any fishiness. I can’t help but feel content as I take in the moment, goombay music pumping, belly full and not a care in the world — just the way it should be when you’re living on island time. 

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WHERE TO TRY IT Drifters at Da’ Fry Arawak Cay West Bay Street Nassau

THE CARIBBEAN Paradise from a new point of view

ORANJESTAD, ARUBA

Here’s to finding new color in Caribbean landscapes. To strolling blush-hued beaches, roaming emerald jungles, and drifting away on aquamarine waters. This close to the equator, golden afternoons stretch on, inviting you to linger on secluded shores, slip further into local rhythms, and dive deeper to discover underwater worlds. Between explorations, return to your sanctuary at sea — where extraordinary moments rival the destinations you visit. Here’s to hiking St. Lucia’s Pitons and toasting new friendships in St. Barts. To seeing familiar isles with fresh eyes, and uncovering unexpected treasures along the way. To Finding More.

Contact your Ensemble Travel Advisor for more details.

GOING PLACES

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INTERVIEW

Aziz Abu Sarah Through his “dual narrative” approach to tourism, the Palestinian author, activist and entrepreneur ensures no story goes untold — and in the process, shows how travel can be a force for peace. By Dominique Lamberton

ziz Abu Sarah’s fascination with travel began when he was five, before he’d ever set foot outside his hometown of Jerusalem. He went to school inside the compound of Al-Aqsa Mosque, where he’d pose for the camera-toting tourists who came to see the holy site. “I started learning English, and soon I was offering them tours,” he says. Today, Abu Sarah has worked in travel by way of peace-building for over two decades. In 2009, he co-founded Mejdi Tours, known for its “dual narrative” model, where destinations are explored through various perspectives (in Northern Ireland, tours are led by both Catholic and Protestant guides). His new book, The Future Is Peace, co-authored with Israeli Maoz Inon, a fellow peace activist, also takes this approach. The two traveled across the Holy Land, discovering it through each other’s points of view. “We don’t have to agree on the past, as long as we focus on today and what we can do to make the future better.”

Range Why is the dual narrative approach important to you as a travel entrepreneur? Aziz Abu Sarah If you don’t do it this way, you’re leaving a big part of the story out. No place is homogenous. I’ve been to about 100 countries, most of them many times, and I have yet to find a place where there’s only a single story — I don’t think it exists. R Your latest book, The Future Is Peace, is also structured this way, sharing both your perspective and experiences as a Palestinian and Inon’s as an Israeli. How come? AAS When we wrote The Future Is Peace, we decided that we wouldn’t tell the other what language to use or silence certain voices. I wanted Maoz to tell the Israeli narrative, and I wanted to tell the Palestinian narrative. And then the two of us, in every chapter except for the first, wrote a joint ending. We show there are two different narratives, but that doesn’t mean we can’t work together.

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R What’s one thing all travelers can do to work toward a more peaceful future? AAS When you travel, meet with people. If the trip has a single story, whether you’re traveling with an organization or alone, look for what’s missing. On every tour in every place you go, there are people who aren’t included. Look for their stories and, if possible, connect with them. In my experience, those are the most powerful moments on every trip. R What do you believe the impact would be if the 1.5 billion people who traveled internationally last year embraced this? AAS I don’t think we’d have anywhere close to the number of conflicts and wars we have today, because those connections affect how our politicians can sell us fear and division. It would transform the way we view the world and create more collaboration in every aspect. We wouldn’t see the other as a threat, but as a partner. 

GOING PLACES

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ROUNDUP

Up, Up and Away The perfect blend of adventure and ease, hot-air balloon rides take you above and beyond your favorite destinations.

AUSTRALIA

FRANCE

Canberra

Loire Valley

In the air, get a snapshot of both the natural and manmade beauty of Australia’s capital city. You’ll see the Australian War Memorial, the National Library and the National Gallery of Australia, and popular sporting venues like the Corroboree Group Manuka Oval and GIO Stadium Canberra, punctuated by Black Mountain and Lake Burley Griffin. Earlier this year, the 40th anniversary of the Canberra Balloon Spectacular saw roughly 40 hot-air balloons from across the globe take flight over the nine-day festival, turning the sky into a show of shapes and colors.

Raise a glass of Sancerre or Crémant de Loire as you float high above the storybook landscape of the Loire Valley. Known as the “Garden of France,” the valley — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — is just over an hour’s train ride from Paris and offers a romantic rural escape with rolling hills, world-class vineyards and fairytale, Renaissance-era towns. Capture the grandeur of the famous châteaux, including Chenonceau, Amboise and Chaumont, and see the geometric patchwork of manicured gardens as they were meant to be seen — from above.

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PHOTOS: BRUCE/ADOBE STOCK (AUSTRALIA); MARTIN BARON/UNSPLASH (FRANCE).

By Simone Olivero

PHOTOS: AZATHOTH PICS/ADOBE STOCK (TANZANIA); IGOR SPORYNIN/UNSPLASH (TURKEY).

GOING PLACES

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ROUNDUP

TANZANIA

TURKEY

Serengeti National Park

Cappadocia

Each year, Tanzania’s oldest national park welcomes more than 350,000 visitors to its pristine savanna. Explore large swaths of the 5,700-square-mile park by hot-air balloon to see one of the highest concentrations of predators in Africa, including cheetahs and spotted hyenas. Also on view are wildebeest, zebras and more than 500 species of birds. From up high, you’ll have a bird’s-eye vantage for spotting the Big Five (lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants and African buffalo) as the sun crests over the horizon and nocturnal predators tuck away out of sight.

There’s a reason hot-air balloons are a fixture on Cappadocia itineraries. Not only is the weather ideally suited for flight, but if you want to see the expansive, multicolored rock formations — some fashioned into dwellings by ancient societies — it would take days to do so by foot. You’ll soar over Pigeon Valley, the Göreme Open Air Museum, Uchisar Castle and one-ofa-kind cave hotels with fairy chimneys, all on a single flight. While most balloon rides offer an escape from the crowds, in Cappadocia the sea of brilliant balloons rising with the sun is a spectacular sight unto itself.

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PHOTO: JOHANNES MÄNDLE/UNSPLASH (IPANEMA BEACH).

GOING PLACES

22 — VIEWPOINT

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GOING PLACES

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VIEWPOINT

The Power of the Beach There are few places left in the world where you can come as you are. The beach is one of them, writes Renée Morrison — here’s why the shoreline is sacred ground.

n Rio de Janeiro, the thing to do is applaud the sunset at Pedra do Arpoador, a rocky peninsula at the edge of Ipanema Beach. It’s an easy 45-minute stroll along the shore from Copacabana Beach, so I’m a bit reluctant to admit that on my recent honeymoon, my husband and I set out more than once and never made it even halfway by dusk. Each time, the beach itself stole the show: vendors selling freshly muddled caipirinhas and Christ the Redeemer trinkets; kids building sandcastles beside napping grandparents; locals playing altinha, or keep-up, next to guests who’d wandered down from five-star hotels. The nearly 2.5-mile stretch of coast runs past neighborhoods of wildly different means — gilded apartment blocks sit at sea level and favelas fill the hills behind — but the shoreline doesn’t know the difference. Everyone comes together by the water. In a world that’s increasingly divided and digitized, the beach is one of the few places that resists both. There’s no VIP section in the water. Everyone looks silly trying to apply sunscreen to that unreachable spot between the shoulders and lower back. And nobody

leaves without a little sand, sweat and frizz. Beaches fall under the category of third places, the spaces where community is fostered on neutral ground. Cafés, markets, public parks and plazas all qualify, but the shore might be the purest of them all. Long before beach culture was a concept, people gathered at the water’s edge to bathe and be together. As far back as the 8th century BCE, Homer was setting scenes on the mythical shores of Scheria in The Odyssey; by the late 1700s, it was documented that Hawaiians were riding the waves of Kealakekua Bay for the sheer pleasure of it; around the same time, the English decided the sea was a health cure. Centuries later, we still treat the shoreline as sacred territory. The beach belongs to everyone, and some destinations have turned that notion into law. In Antigua, all 365 of the island’s pristine beaches (one for every day of the year, as locals love to mention) are public and free. In laid-back Anguilla, the small British Overseas Territory in the eastern Caribbean, megaships are banned from docking in what tourism board coordinator Kohn Richardson says is an intentional move “to make sure there’s

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always a spot on the sand for everyone.” A few years ago, in Greece, where my pappous (grandfather) is from and where every beach is public property, residents responded to clubs charging for lounge chairs with the “Towel Movement,” showing up by the hundreds to lay towels at the increasingly monetized seafront. I can understand the instinct: On a backpacking trip years earlier, throwing my own towel onto the pebbly shore at Varkiza, on the Athenian Riviera, felt like a small rite of passage. Through every season of change — breakups, career pivots, the birth of my daughter — a trip to the beach has eased the way. It’s a place where we’re untethered from our roles and the stresses of the everyday: Nobody is focused on our job titles, zip codes or follower counts. There’s little expectation and even less to do, which is exactly the point. So, when you find your next slice of sand, whether it runs along a far-flung coast or a windswept body of water closer to home, look around and notice who’s there: toddlers and retirees, locals and tourists, hard bodies and soft ones, the bronzed and the SPF-devout. All under the same glorious, generous sun. 

The Caribbean: Water so blue it’s almost otherworldly, unspoiled stretches of sand, lush rainforests, volcanic peaks and rich cultures that blend Indigenous, African, European and Asian heritages — it’s no wonder the Caribbean is the top choice for Americans when they’re looking to escape to the beach. Whether you’re after adventure or craving a history lesson, here are three destinations to consider for your next sun-soaked holiday.

Three Ways

PHOTOS: JULIAN BERENGAR-SOLTER/UNSPLASH (TOP); CHLOE CHRISTINE/UNSPLASH (MIDDLE); JUSTIN LEWIS/GETTY IMAGES (BOTTOM); ALLEC GOMES/UNSPLASH (BACKGROUND).

SABA

Diving into Saba By Claire Sibonney

At only five square miles, you could blink and miss this Caribbean island tucked into the Lesser Antilles. But as many divers have discovered, its untouched nature extends to the surrounding waters, where a treasure trove of sea life awaits.

’m sitting on the edge of a small boat aptly named Shark Bait, trying to steady my nerves as I gear up for my first dive in more than a decade. The spandex of my wetsuit feels too tight and the tank on my back too heavy for me to fully enjoy the clear cobalt water below. My heart is pounding and I’m questioning my decision to reconnect with my younger self, the one who loved diving but hasn’t made space for it since welcoming her first child 12 years ago. The day before, I landed on the Dutch Caribbean island of Saba by way of a light twin-prop plane from neighboring Sint Maarten, a 12-minute flight to the world’s shortest commercial runway at Juancho E. Irausquin Airport. Until a few months ago, I’d never heard of the so-called “Unspoiled Queen of the Caribbean.” From the air, Saba (pronounced SAYbah) rises dramatically from the Caribbean Sea, a single rainforest-covered mound formed by dormant volcano Mount Scenery, which rises nearly 2,900 feet above the ocean’s surface. On the ground, the island feels just as remote as it looks from the air. There’s only one winding road and no streetlights, high-rises or cruise-ship port. There’s not even a real beach. Most people come for hiking or diving — I’m here to dive.

Nearly two decades ago, on my first open-water dive in Turks and Caicos, I had a transcendent encounter with a massive green sea turtle — and I was hooked. I chased that feeling through Costa Rica and Thailand. Saba, a lesser-known bucket-list diving destination, felt like the kind of place worthy of refreshing my diving license. In 2023, Saba, along with the nearby Saba Bank, was named a Mission Blue Hope Spot — a first in the Dutch Caribbean — in recognition of the extraordinary marine life surrounding the island. This designation helps explain why divers speak of Saba with such reverence: Its waters are known for volcanic pinnacles, dramatic drop-offs and healthy reefs, and for providing regular encounters with sea turtles, sharks, rays and swarms of technicolor reef fish. I couldn’t pass over the opportunity to suit up. As we idle above Tent Reef Shallow dive site, just a five-minute boat ride from Fort Bay Harbor, our Sea Saba instructor, Dutchman Marc Vermaas, briefs us with a hand-drawn map of what lies below. The seabed begins in clear, sunlit water before dropping quickly into deeper blue. A mild current is pushing toward the reef, so the plan is to descend together and stay close. I adjust the weights in my scuba vest and slip on my fins before doing the world’s most awkward waddle to

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PHOTOS: CHRIS KURZATKOWSKI FOR SABA TOURISM BUREAU (TOP); CHAD NUTTALL FOR SABA TOURISM BUREAU (BOTTOM).

SABA

OPENING SPREAD, FROM TOP The Quill, a dormant volcano, peeks through the greenery on Saba; a traditional lifeguard stand in Barbados’ Folkestone Marine Park and Museum; clear water surrounds a boat off Mopion, a tiny sandbar in Saint Vincent and the Grenadines. THIS PAGE, FROM TOP Red-roofed homes dot Saba’s lush rainforestcovered landscape; beneath the surface, a group of divers explore a volcanic ledge.

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SABA

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PHOTOS: CHRIS KURZATKOWSKI FOR SABA TOURISM BUREAU (LEFT); KAI WULF FOR SABA TOURISM BUREAU (RIGHT).

SABA

THIS SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT Dense moss, verdant ferns and colorful palms line the path up to the mist-shrouded summit of Mount Scenery; on approach, Saba rises dramatically from the Caribbean Sea.

the side of the boat. I clench the regulator on my mask so tight, I feel the silicone give. I remind myself that once I’m underwater, the only thing I really have to do is keep breathing, slow and steady — panic is what gets divers into trouble. Extending one leg forward, I close my eyes and take the plunge. As we descend, I’m still focused on my breathing and my buoyancy, as I drift too high above the reef or too close to the ocean floor. I follow my guide Robins Pierre Antoine, a Haitian divemaster, as he moves calmly ahead of me, clasping his hands to show just how relaxed you’re supposed to be underwater. Garden eels sway like blades of seagrass, and schools of bright blue tang, giant silver barracuda and yellowhead wrasse pass against the reef. Pierre Antoine points toward what, at first, looks like nothing but is in fact an Atlantic nurse shark napping on the ocean floor. A few minutes later, a green sea turtle the size of a coffee table glides above me with such otherworldly grace, it brings me right back to my carefree dive in Turks and Caicos. Watching it disappear into the blue, I lose all sense of time. I spot a huge Caribbean spiny lobster — a first for me in the wild — casually making its way across the ocean floor with its enormous alien-like antennae.

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Then Pierre Antoine motions me closer, this time to something impossibly small: a pair of brightly colored lettuce sea slugs clinging to the reef, their ruffled neon bodies looking more like tiny underwater flowers than sea creatures. On my own, I would have floated right past them, and I’m struck by how much of the world reveals itself only when you slow down enough to pay attention. An hour later and back on the surface, I ask Sea Saba co-owner Chad Nuttall what makes diving here special. He tells me that the waters around Saba are protected down to around 200 feet within the Saba National Marine Park, where fishing has been restricted for decades. That protection extends outward to the vast Saba Bank, the largest submerged atoll in the Atlantic. And the conservation efforts show. “Unlike some places, we tend to have really good interactions with green sea turtles because they’re not being harassed,” says Nuttall. The combination of no cruise ships and supervised dives means the animals aren’t under the same pressure as those in other dive havens. “They come right up to you,” he says. Nuttall has watched sea turtles drift through dive groups. They’ve even tapped his mask with their beaks, curious about their own reflection.

SABA

On land, Saba feels just as singular. Home to only about 2,000 people (including a few hundred international students attending the island’s medical school), Saba has four villages and five small hotels. Even with the recent arrival of the Scenery Hotel, a luxury 30-room property, Saba’s total room count remains around 140, a scale that all but rules out mass tourism. Instead, the island is dotted with traditional Saban homes — matching whitewashed cottages with green shutters and red roofs — that cling to steep hillsides beneath Mount Scenery. The morning after my dive, I meet senior national park officer Tom Brokke for a gentle hike to Mas’ Cohones — a small stretch of trail up Mount Scenery. (Hiking to higher elevations too soon after scuba diving can increase the risk of decompression sickness, or “the bends,” when pressure changes cause gases in the body to form bubbles.) As we walk through the rainforest thick with elephant ears, orchids and wild heliconia flowers, Brokke points out breadfruit trees, medicinal herbs and the soft call of the bridled quaildove, a sound now absent from neighboring islands. Brokke arrived from the Netherlands six years ago for what was meant to be a short internship with the Saba Conservation Foundation researching ways to

trap invasive lionfish. He never left. A divemaster who spent time in Thailand and Vietnam, where overfishing has depleted marine life, he was struck by Saba’s awe-inspiring dive sites. Conservation groups like his are working hard to keep them that way. Brokke tells me about research underway at the island’s marine lab, overseen by the Saba Conservation Foundation, where Alwin Hylkema — a Dutch university professor focused on coastal ecosystem restoration — is testing ways to help coral reefs recover. After the mass die-off of long-spined black sea urchins in the 1980s, algae began overtaking reefs across the region. Researchers are now rebuilding that grazing pressure by reintroducing the sea urchins and cultivating species like Caribbean king crabs. As a diver, it’s easy to notice how fragile our oceans are. You’re immersed in mind-boggling marine life, while also seeing how quickly these ecosystems can change. On Saba, this wildness and fragility feel especially close to the surface. For more than a decade, I resisted the pull of the ocean. But somewhere during that first dive, as my breathing finally slowed and the panic gave way to wonder, I found myself more present, more awake and deeply grateful that protected places like Saba still exist. 

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THIS SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Patrons lounge on the patio of the Bizzy B, a café and bakery in the town of Windwardside; a hand-painted sign directs hikers; the vibrant marine life around Saba features sea fans, sponges, a variety of coral and pinnacles (volcanic spires).

SABA

More ways to explore Beyond diving and hiking, there’s much to discover on this Dutch Caribbean island. SEE THE LACE L A D I E S AT LAMBEE’S PLACE

PHOTOS: CHRIS KURZATKOWSKI FOR SABA TOURISM BUREAU (LEFT, TOP RIGHT); BRENT DURAND/GETTY IMAGES (BOTTOM RIGHT).

Brought to the island by Venezuelan nuns in the 1800s, lace is still a celebrated craft on Saba. At Lambee’s Place in Windwardside, join the artisans in action. VISIT THE SEA & LEARN F O U N D AT I O N

At the science-driven nature center, attend expert talks and participate in field activities like turtle monitoring or spotting fluorescing scorpions on night hikes. EXPLORE THE HARRY L. JOHNSON MUSEUM

Set in a picturesque garden, this 1840s sea-captain’s cottage houses island curiosities like vintage photos of Dutch royals, Saba’s first telephone and a centuryold pump organ.

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BARBADOS

Barbados Beyond the Beach B y S i m o n e O l i v e r o — P h o t o s by J u n i o r S e a l y

Chattel houses, tuk bands, sugarcane plantations and even monkeys: The Bajan experience has been shaped by so much more than the white-sand beaches and crystalline water.

“W

hen you en’ got horse, ride cow.” It’s one of the many Barbadian (or Bajan) sayings I hear during my visit to the independent island nation, the easternmost landmass in the Lesser Antilles. The rough translation: Use whatever resources are available. As I learn over the next few days, it’s classic Bajan. “Bajans have a tendency to make things their own,” says tour guide Georgina Callender, who’s wearing a traditional full-length skirt, white frilled top and colorful headscarf. “They’ll take a fishing village named after Austin, a 17th-century English plantation owner known for his partying ways, and transform it into Oistins, a rowdy fish fry where locals go for a fun night out.” Callender runs a local tour company offering Bridgetown walking tours and island bus tours that weave together Barbadian history and folklore, led by guides in customary Barbadian dress. “Barbados culture is a fusion of the British Isles and the western coast of Africa, something you won’t find anywhere else in the world.”

We’re riding the fire-engine-red Bajan Bus along the west coast of the island, where the water is calm and chattel-style houses dot the landscape in a blur of fuchsia, kelly green and yellow. Chattel houses — so called because they could be easily packed up and moved once the work was finished on a plantation — are still found throughout the island, though they’re now firmly grounded in place. As we drive through Holetown, Callender points out the Chattel House Village where a row of buildings made to resemble old chattel houses sell T-shirts and souvenirs. “Holetown was the first British settlement on the island, originally named Jamestown, after the former King of England, James I,” she says. “As you explore the island, you’ll start to notice the merging of these two cultures everywhere.” The English first arrived on the shores of Barbados in 1625 and quickly established the “plantocracy” — an elite class that controlled the sugarcane plantations, using enslaved laborers from West Africa. Despite this oppressive past, Bajans have adopted

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BARBADOS

RIGHT Michael Trotman (left) and Georgina Callender wear traditional Barbadian folk costumes on their tours.

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BARBADOS

THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Bridgetown’s colorful McGregor Street is home to Mustor’s Restaurant, a popular Bajan comfort food spot; Callender carries a basket of “fish cakes and bakes” (fried snacks); made of local coral limestone, the Parliament buildings were built in neo-Gothic style; Trotman in front of one of Bridgetown’s iconic painted buildings.

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PHOTO: TOM JUR/UNSPLASH.

BARBADOS

ABOVE A traveler takes in a stretch of turquoise coastline.

many aspects of British culture as their own, from afternoon tea to a fierce love of cricket (it’s the national sport). Only recently, in 2021, Barbados became a republic and officially removed the British monarch as head of state. “Our past is part of who we are today,” says Callender. After my week in Barbados, more than the sun, beaches and turquoise water I’d gone for, it’s this discovery that Bajans reflect these impossibly intertwined cultures and histories that sticks with me most. From Holetown, the tour travels to Bridgetown where a tuk band is setting up a cultural immersion event for Crop Over, the island’s annual Carnival-style celebration that takes place from the first Saturday in July to the first Monday in August, its name rooted in the English end-of-harvest celebration, the Harvest Home festival. With a set of drumsticks in hand, I’m led through a basic lesson on the snare drum: bam bam bada dum; bam bam bada dum. “African drums used to be banned,” says Callender as I struggle to keep rhythm. “Tuk music was created using British military-style instruments played with traditional African beats as a way of preserving that culture.” Falling in line with a musician playing a double-headed bass drum and another on the Scottish

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fife, we watch as “Mudda Sally” — a folkloric character with an exaggerated bosom and a padded bottom — moves to the music, a symbol of fertility with roots in West African culture. After the lesson, we return to the bus and head inland, where recently harvested sugarcane fields stretch toward the horizon. As we zoom past a sprawling peach-hued estate, Callender notices me craning to look and explains that the property used to be a plantation. “There are hundreds on the island,” she says. One of the oldest, Sunbury Plantation, is now an event venue, while Sweetfield Manor is a boutique hotel. “Many have been converted into private homes, restaurants or even businesses — and some still lie derelict,” says Callender. The next day, I have the opportunity to visit one as a guest of Franklyn and Juliet Jeffers when I participate in the island’s new Dine with a Bajan program, a bookable experience that invites visitors to have a meal with a local family in their home. The Jeffers’ house sits at the end of a long drive flanked by two rows of Caribbean Royal palm trees — something Callender had described as a classic plantation marker. On the breezy veranda with decorative wood trim (or fretwork), I sip a homemade rum punch while

BARBADOS

“Barbados culture is a fusion of the British Isles and the western coast of Africa, something you won’t find anywhere else in the world.”

the Jeffers recount what they know about the history of their home. “It originally belonged to a sugarcane plantation manager, and enslaved people worked here,” says Juliet. Taking her hand, Franklyn shares how they were immediately struck by the beauty and quiet calm of the property when they came to see it — but its historical significance isn’t lost on them. “We had two options,” says Franklyn. “Cover up the past and start over, or reclaim it as our own.” They chose the latter. “We talk about what may have happened here,” he says, gesturing to the house and surrounding grounds. “We understand that people — our ancestors — toiled here and worked hard. We embrace them and accept that this was their life.” Over the last 10 years, the Jeffers have been slowly renovating the original house, painting decorative accents such as the porch and veranda in Plantation green (an acknowledgment of the past) and inserting pieces of themselves, from photographs of their kids to the large dining table where they now host dinners for Dine with a Bajan. “I love to cook,” says Juliet. “Bringing people into our home is such a powerful way to connect and have these conversations.” The Jeffers are among several hosts inviting visitors in as part of this initiative developed by the Barbados tourism board to help create deeper local connections. In the kitchen, Juliet has laid out the ingredients for pumpkin fritters, a simple yet beloved dish you’ll find on menus at some of the island’s top restaurants. As we mix grated Caribbean pumpkin (a milder version of North American pumpkin) with sugar, eggs, flour, cinnamon and baking powder, Juliet previews the evening’s menu. Among the many dishes are two that nod to English influence, but with a Bajan twist.

Juliet’s shepherd’s pie uses generously seasoned Barbados Blackbelly sheep, a native species I spot grazing on the neighbor’s lawn next door, in place of traditional ground beef or lamb, and her bread pudding gets a kick from cinnamon-spiced rum. While dinner’s cooking, Franklyn and I stroll the four-and-a-half-acre property filled with pink and yellow frangipani and fruit trees like mango, guava and starfruit. Scanning for ripe produce, I ask Franklyn what kind of yield they get and he laughs, pointing just over the fence to a gully where a troop of 15 or so green monkeys wrestle and jump between the trees. The monkeys are descendants of the primates brought over on the slave ships from West Africa during the 17th century. “I have six mango trees and I’ve yet to taste a single mango,” says Franklyn. Despite their knack for stealing fruit, the mischievous yet adorable monkeys have been adopted as a national symbol, their image featuring prominently on local products like popular confectionery brand The Green Monkey Chocolatier. Earlier that day, I received another history lesson while sitting at a large marble-topped bar in Bridgetown’s Pelican Craft Centre with Tamara Gibson, artisan perfumer and founder of fragrance brand Native Caribbean. I’d come to her shop to make a personalized reed diffuser, but our conversation quickly shifted to how she has built her company on the island’s ancestry, using the past as a source of inspiration for her fragrances. “I like to think of my scents as cultural records,” she says. This is most evident with her line of perfumes, which are made using organic sugarcane alcohol as a base — a reference to the strong hold sugarcane has had over the island for almost 400 years. Her

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BARBADOS

THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Caribbean royal palms tower over the Jeffers’ home; Juliet and Franklyn Jeffers with local plantain, avocado and Caribbean pumpkin; mature sugarcane awaits harvest and will be processed into Bajan rum; a salad of mixed vegetables from the Jeffers’ Dine with a Bajan spread.

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BARBADOS

THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Native Caribbean fragrances come in travel sizes for easy souvenirs; the vibrant royal poinciana (or Flamboyant) tree; Tamara Gibson inside her shop at Pelican Craft Centre; one of the island’s elusive green monkeys.

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PHOTO: CHLOE CHRISTINE/UNSPLASH.

BARBADOS

ABOVE Locals enjoy the sunset from the water in Speightstown, on the island’s northwest coast.

Inheritance fragrance was influenced by an ancient Yoruba recipe used to break fevers. It’s a reminder of the island’s duality — a mixture of Christian beliefs and African spirituality. The Plantation Gold scent features bergamot and a sugarcane accord with hints of pimento berry and tobacco, acknowledging the tobacco and sugarcane plantations that built the foundation of Barbados. “The perfumes tell the other side of these stories, but not with any malice or anger,” she says. “It’s about the resilience, the craftsmanship — a different story than what you get in the history books.” Over swatches of oils infused with white cotton flower, amber and nutmeg, I start to recognize how scent affects my own emotions. I’m surprised to find myself turning away from a cedar-infused oil, but then being drawn to a blend of cashmere, an enveloping scent that makes me feel safe and calm, and wassail, a spicy citrus that reminds me of sunscreen and driving with the windows down when my family would embark on our annual road trip from Toronto to Florida. “Scent is the only one of our senses that goes directly to the surface of the brain,” Gibson says. “That’s why you can smell something and remember a place or a person — it’s connected to memory, our personal history.”

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Back at the Jeffers’, Franklyn and I return from our walk, greeted by the aroma of earthy herbs and sweet plaintain. Juliet’s Bajan spread covers the dining table: I spot the fritters we cooked together earlier, her shepherd’s pie with an island spin, baked macaroni pie and a bright salad, among other mouthwatering dishes. We sit down and dig in. Over dinner, we fall into an easy rhythm, talking about our families and traditions. There’s nothing scripted, nothing prescribed. It’s the kind of genuine experience I always hope to have when I travel, but which rarely happens organically. When it’s time to go, I find myself reaching out for hugs and pausing in each embrace. It’s only been an evening and yet I feel as though we’ve been through something more than just a meal. The chattering of monkeys breaks the silence and we pull apart, bidding each other good night. As I head back down the palm-lined drive, I recall another saying I heard on the island: “Tekkin’ time ain’t laziness.” It means that sometimes you need to slow down to get it right — and it feels like I’ve done just that by learning about the island’s history and the people who call it home. This may have started as a beach vacation, but I’m leaving with so much more. 

SAINT VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES

Taking It Cay by Cay W o r d s a n d P h o t o s by K a t i e S e h l

Journey by plane, van and watercraft across Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, a Caribbean nation of islands that’s best explored with locals — and a curiosity for the past.

“F

or the love of travel,” declares a balloonfestooned sign at Saint Vincent’s Argyle International Airport. Vincy, as Vincentians call the island, fronts a band of 32 isles and cays known as the Grenadines, which trail south toward Grenada in the eastern Caribbean Sea. Love has been in the air since Valentine’s Day, 2017, when the brand-new airport’s inaugural international commercial flight touched down. Since then, despite a volcanic eruption, hurricane and global pandemic, the island once served by palm-glancing turboprops has opened its arms to jumbo jets and well over one million air travelers. Now, the nation is one of the region’s fastest-growing destinations, welcoming a record number of overnight arrivals in 2025 — a 17.4-percent increase over the previous year. As I watch travelers shuffle through the customs line in the balmy terminal, I think, they’re going to need a bigger airport. Argyle itself was no small feat: Three mountains were toppled, two valleys were raised and the Yambou River, paved over, now runs partially under the runway. “It has a lot of sentimental value to the people of Saint Vincent,” explains “Captain”

Quency Lewis, who runs a local tour company with his wife Julecia, often sporting epaulets while taking travelers around the island in his stickered, 16-seat van. “Now we can travel freely, and with as much luggage as we like.” My own little carry-on bloats over four wheels as Lewis reaches for it. In a wash of sun and heat, we sail down the road, setting off on a journey through Saint Vincent and the Grenadines by land and sea. SAINT VINCENT BY LAND The island’s roads trace a topography ridged with the fingerprints of Carib, African, French and British hands. At times, it’s a jerky ride. “Everything is up, up, down and around,” says Lewis. From up north, the highway wraps down and around the coast, passing through the capital, Kingstown, before snaking up leeward through Petit Bordel and Chateaubelair, the gateway to Dark View Falls. Eighteenth-century French maps marked the capital by its Indigenous name, Ouashegunny. After the Union Jack replaced the French flag in 1763, the British Crown took a more possessive tack. “It rankles,” said Camillo Gonsalves,

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SAINT VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES

FROM TOP Friendship Bay, on Bequia’s southern coast, is known for its calm water, making it ideal for swimming and snorkeling; the grounds of Bequia’s Firefly Estate yield fruits, herbs and veggies for its on-site restaurant, open to all.

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SAINT VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES

the former Minister of Finance, on a radio appearance in 2025 where he floated the idea of phasing out colonial-era names. “We’re at the stage in our consciousness where we need to make a few changes.” Roads are named for where they take you — and where you’ve been. Cutting inland, Mespo Highway teethes its way through Mesopotamia’s dense valleys. A pause at the Belmont Lookout reaps a bountiful view: Nutmeg and breadfruit trees fill hillside terraces, homes speckle slopes like confetti and greenery creeps across telephone wires. “Things just grow here,” says Lewis. Breadfruit, served roasted as part of the national dish alongside fried jackfish, took root after its introduction by British Royal Navy Captain William Bligh, commander of the HMS Providence. Some of the saplings Bligh carried from Tahiti were planted in Kingstown’s Botanical Gardens, the oldest in the Western Hemisphere. While Bligh made it to Saint Vincent, Christopher Columbus did not. Until recently, the Spanish explorer was thought to have “discovered” the island on January 22, 1498, the feast day of Saint Vincent of Saragossa. Turns out he was in Spain. Nevertheless,

the island didn’t need a christening. The Carib people already had a name for it: Hairouna. “It means ‘Land of the Blessed,’” says Augustine DeSilver, my guide on a morning ATV tour near Brighton. “Nothing exciting happens here, so we create our own adventures,” DeSilver says, dismounting his ATV on a cliff edge that drops into Stubbs Bay, our first stop. He tells me the story of the Garifuna, a people of mixed Caribbean and African ancestry who resisted British rule before being forced into exile. The country gained independence from the United Kingdom in 1979, before my time, and DeSilver’s, too. When we return to base camp, he passes me a Vincentian beer. It’s called Hairoun. Its slogan? “Hold your own.” BEQUIA BY SEA A voice comes over the loudspeaker as the Bequia Fast Ferry pulls away from Kingstown’s port. “Hey guys, what’s up?” It’s Captain Garvin Ollivierre, wearing an upturned brimmer with the weathered bearing of a cowboy of the sea. The ferry made its maiden voyage on April 13, 2025, reducing the travel time between Saint Vincent and Bequia, the largest of the

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THIS PAGE, LEFT TO RIGHT The view from the Bequia Fast Ferry before it sets off from Kingstown’s port; the Princess Margaret Trail and Belmont Walkway wind, at times over the water, from Princess Margaret Beach to Port Elizabeth.

SAINT VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES

ABOVE Quieter than nearby Princess Margaret Beach, Friendship Bay offers views to neighboring Mustique, where the namesake royal vacationed.

Grenadines, by more than 30 percent, to a breezy 35 minutes. Many a famous vessel has bobbed in Bequia’s wind-tousled harbor, once the “boat-building capital of the West Indies.” In 1717, pirate Captain Edward Teach — better remembered as Blackbeard — sailed the captured French slave ship La Concorde into Admiralty Bay, where it was reborn as the fearsome Queen Anne’s Revenge. In the 1970s, Bob Dylan came knocking to commission Water Pearl, a 60-somefoot schooner. Like a swashbuckling rolling stone, Johnny Depp’s former private yacht, Vajoliroja, skimmed the horizon during the filming of the Pirates of the Caribbean franchise. British royalty left its mark ashore, with the port called Elizabeth and a beach named for Princess Margaret, who often vacationed on nearby Mustique. On the regal sea-grape-tree-canopied beach, the afternoon sun gilds the mellow sea. From a slow-passing yacht, the tricolor flag flaps blue, green and gold. “It is said that if you say yellow, we’ll tell you it’s actually gold,” a local tells me. The Belmont Walkway wraps the water’s edge to Port Elizabeth,

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where gingerbread-trimmed buildings bunch in taffy tones. Leviathan jawbones arch over the entrance to Whaleboner, Bequia’s oldest family-run restaurant. At its bar, sundowners sip rum punch on stools made of a humpback’s vertebrae and wooden pegs. I travel by water taxi to the uninhabited island Petit Rameau, a windswept slip of sand in the coral-ringed Tobago Cays, to taste the bounty of the sea from Alphonso’s Lobster BBQ — the backwater lunch stars heaping platters of grilled lobster and fried plantain. Some of the best meals owe as much to the journey as the ingredients. The same goes for drinks: Before sundown, a speedboat steers me to Bar One, a floating canteen moored near Princess Margaret Beach. Patrons lean over the bar, water dripping from their swim trunks. Others sway on swings dangling from the gently sloping roof, jars of passion-fruit rum punch in hand. Built by former boat engineer Kerry Ollivierre (a distant relative of Captain Garvin), the solar-powered platform drifts in the winking waters with the kind of languid torpor that can only be hard-won. Won for the love of travel — and the freedom to float on. 

MOROCCO

The Many Tiles of Marrakech P h o t o s by A l e x C r é t e y S y s t e r m a n s — Wo r d s by R o b e r t L i w a n a g

For photographer Alex Crétey Systermans, Morocco offered an abundance of vivid scenes, from bustling souks to camel caravans. Yet one subject shone brighter than any other: the spectacular zellige tilework adorning the palaces, gardens and historic buildings of Marrakech. “Every tile is made from memory,” he says. “Then it’s all assembled by hand like a giant puzzle.” First used in the 10th century and rooted in Moorish traditions, these clay tiles have become one of Morocco’s trademarks, their vibrant colors and geometric patterns embodying the country’s craftsmanship and sense of self.

MOROCCO

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MOROCCO

Dar El Bacha

In a city famed for its estates and riads (traditional Moroccan houses built around an interior courtyard), few rival Dar El Bacha. Constructed in 1910 as the residence of Thami El Glaoui, the region’s pasha (governor), it also served as a meeting place for foreign diplomats and artists during the French protectorate. “It was built to impress,” says Crétey Systermans. After decades of decline, the palace was renovated in 2017 and reopened as the Museum of Confluences Marrakech. Today, visitors wander through its sunlit rooms and cool courtyard, where zellige mosaics, cedarwood ceilings and Arabic calligraphy reveal the timeless artistry of local maalems (master craftsmen). The museum’s collections extend past Islamic art, too, with objects on permanent display from Africa, Asia and the Americas. Stop by the popular Bacha Coffee, which greets guests with 200 single-origin coffees beyond its grand wooden doors.

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MOROCCO

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MOROCCO

Medersa Ben Youssef

Marrakech is home to a handful of historic educational institutions, among them Medersa Ben Youssef near the old medina. Reconstructed in 1565, this legendary college once trained up to 800 students at a time in Islamic law, as well as other fields. Just a few seconds in its famous central patio are enough to show visitors why it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. “The contrast between the patio and dormitories is so powerful,” says Crétey Systermans. “The rooms are small, austere and meant for work, while the common space represents the power of God and religion.” Zellige is used extensively throughout the building, lining walls, columns, floors and fountains, with tiles measuring more than an inch in thickness — double that of conventional zellige tiles. Meanwhile, the space’s use of sculpted plaster and repeating, symmetrical designs is meant to evoke a sense of order and harmony.

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MOROCCO

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MOROCCO

Le Jardin Secret

Gardens are prized spaces in the Islamic world — for many Muslims, they represent paradise on Earth and serve as places for prayer, meditation and worship. Le Jardin Secret, tucked away from the noise of Marrakech’s bustling Mouassine district, dates to the 16th century, when it was home to the palace of a sultan from the Sa’adian dynasty, which ruled Morocco between 1550 and 1688. It later became a riad in the 19th century before opening to the public in 2016. The garden’s two spaces — one a traditional Islamic garden and the other devoted to exotic plants, both lined with exquisite zellige walking paths — are undeniably beautiful, but even more impressive is what lies beneath: a historic irrigation system that once drew water all the way from the Atlas Mountains. “Marrakech is crazy and chaotic,” says Crétey Systermans. “But there are a lot of hidden places like this where it’s so quiet, peaceful and beautiful.” 

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EXPLORE ANTARCTICA WITH THE PIONEERS OF POLAR TRAVEL Lars-Eric Lindblad led the first expedition cruise to Antarctica in 1966, pioneering a style of immersive exploration that continues to shape every National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions voyage. Guided by 60 years of expedition heritage, our veteran captains, expedition leaders and naturalists follow opportunity rather than a fixed itinerary, adapting to weather, wildlife and ice to reveal Antarctica at its most extraordinary. With more time exploring off the ship, the ability to venture farther into the ice and a range of expedition styles—from itineraries that fly over the Drake Passage to extended voyages across the Southern Ocean—you can experience Antarctica your way without compromising the depth of the experience. Every departure also includes a National Geographic Photographer, whose expert guidance helps you see—and capture—the White Continent in unforgettable ways. PLEASE CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DETAILS.

©2026 Lindblad Expeditions. All Rights Reserved. Lindblad Expeditions and the Eye are the trademarks of Lindblad Expeditions, LLC. ©2026 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC EXPEDITIONS and the Yellow Border Design are trademarks of the National Geographic Society, used under license.

TEXT: SIMONE OLIVERO. PHOTO: STEFANIE SOSIAK.

WHERE NEXT

Crete, Greece The car-free fishing village of Loutro, located about 40 miles south of Chaniá in west Crete, appears like a mirage at the bottom of a steep 1,968-foot limestone cliff with picture-perfect whitewashed homes and impossibly turquoise water. Believed to have been the port of ancient Anopolis, Loutro translates to “bath,” named for the Greco-Roman baths formerly found here. Today, you can only reach the idyllic bay by foot or ferry (a 20-minute ride from Chora Sfakion), making it an ideal reprieve from the crowds. For more ways to discover Crete, the largest Greek island, turn to page 58.

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WHERE NEXT

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ITINERARY

A Perfect Day in Hobart Framed by Kunanyi (Mount Wellington) and the River Derwent, the capital of Tasmania, Australia’s island state, is visually striking, culturally engaging — and just plain fun. By Doug Wallace

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PHOTO: SUNIL NEPALI/PEXELS.

ustralia’s second-oldest city has more than a few stories to tell, not all of them linked to its penal-colony past. Even after more than two centuries — the city was founded in 1804 — Hobart’s buzz is still anchored to the waterfront, a working port that has kept much of its authentic feel. Sandstone warehouses that were once used for whaling and trade have been converted into trendy watering holes and luxury shops, while fishing boats, Antarctic supply vessels and lavish yachts pitch up to the piers in harmony. Then there’s the impressive array of restaurants — all farm- and fishing-boatto-fork — an unexpected bonus for a city of just over 200,000 people. Exploring the outskirts is encouraged for activities both contemplative and adventurous, from picturesque Russell Falls and Richmond Bridge to the snow-capped Kunanyi. And if you do have a hankering for a piece of the past, Hobart Convict Penitentiary is a great place to start.

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ITINERARY

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF MUSEUM OF OLD AND NEW ART (01); COURTESY OF FARO BAR + RESTAURANT (02); COURTESY OF LITTLE MISSY PATISSERIE (03).

Morning My day begins at Little Missy Patisserie, a French-style bakery known for its Provençal-inspired treats. I tuck into the vanilla slice, a fresh and flaky millefeuille topped with shards of caramel bark, freeze-dried raspberries and crushed pistachios, and make my way to the waterfront for the half-hour ferry ride to the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA). While you could drive, the direct ferry is the easiest way to get there from the city center — I book the Posh Pit experience with snacks and complimentary sparkling wine, but the standard fare features quirky seating on fiberglass sheep and tigers. MONA is rather like a bunker: Though artworks cover the avant-garde gallery’s grounds — concrete installations and wrought-iron sculptures — the primary collection is subterranean. I weave my

way through some provocative yet fascinating pieces: an army tank made of beige leather; a room that looks like a fossilized garbage dump; a glass shard “ruined library” with oversized lead “books”; and a machine that simulates digestion and produces waste. It would be exhausting if it weren’t so entertaining. Lunch at the on-site Faro Bar + Restaurant proceeds in the same artistic vein. A smokedwallaby dish is listed as Carcass in Swamp, a seafood risotto as Sea Porridge. I opt for Down the Rabbit Hole, a rabbit-and-wildpork terrine that is like a colorful sculpture. While you eat, performance artists move solemnly through the dining room to slow synthesizer accompaniment. MONA’s chief curator, Jarrod Rawlins, says the gallery wants visitors to “begin bewildered and leave curious.” Mission accomplished.

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01 Inside the Museum of Old and New Art’s Heavenly Beings installation. 02 A wild Tasmanian venison dish gets the theatrical treatment with a spritz of jus at Faro Bar + Restaurant. 03 The showstopping vanilla slice mille-feuille from Little Missy Patisserie. OPENING PAGE Australia’s oldest trading ketch, the May Queen, is moored in front of Maritime Museum Tasmania.

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ITINERARY

Afternoon From the gallery, I head north to Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary, which cares for animals found orphaned or injured in the wild — everything from tiny possums to kangaroos. Sanctuary manager Jono Thomas ushers me around, and within minutes a pair of echidnas, Luigi and Tamagotchi, are slurping up a gooey, gray paste of raw chicken from my (rubbergloved) hand. A couple of injured tawny frogmouths also anticipate their handfed lunch. These are stocky birds that look like tree branches, a clever evolutionary disguise. We meet Dewey, an orphaned wombat that Thomas picks up and cradles in his arms. “He’s big, but not full-grown,” he says. “In Tasmania, they can get twice as big as this.” After saying goodbye to my furry friends — including a shy Tasmanian devil and a rare albino pademelon (or “scrub wallaby”) — I stop at Every Man & His Dog Vineyard, settling into a terrace chair overlooking the tidy vines for a wine and chocolate tasting. A delicious chocolate-apple bonbon is introduced with sparkling wine,

04 Guests enjoy Every Man & His Dog Vineyard wines in the Coal River Valley. 05 At Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary, a brushtail possum peeks out from its nesting box. 06 Australian artist John Wren sets up an exhibit of his work at the Salamanca Arts Centre’s Long Gallery.

a berry-chocolate morsel paired with a Cabernet, a milk-chocolate grenache for the Pinot Noir (the region’s signature grape), and so it goes. After the 30-minute drive back to Hobart, there’s souvenir shopping to be had. Salamanca is the neighborhood with the best concentration of indie and artist-run stores — expect studio-style shops at Salamanca Arts Centre selling paintings, ceramics, jewelry and more, and secondhand book shops like Déjà Vu Books with early editions of everything from Lonely Planet guides to novels by Tasmanian authors. If the heat of the day wears you out, cool off with a scenic walk or a swim in the calm, shallow waters of Long Beach in Sandy Bay, an urban waterfront beloved by locals and tourists alike.

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PHOTOS: COURTESY OF EVERY MAN & HIS DOG VINEYARD (04); COURTESY OF BONORONG WILDLIFE SANCTUARY (05); COURTESY OF SALAMANCA ARTS CENTRE (06).

WHERE NEXT

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ITINERARY

PHOTOS: FIONA VAIL PHOTOGRAPHY FOR RESTAURANT MARIA (07); COURTESY OF MARY MARY (08); COURTESY OF DOUBLETREE BY HILTON HOBART (WHERE TO STAY).

07 Seared Tasmanian scallops, kingfish crudo and oysters with wild fennel pollen are served harborside at Restaurant Maria. 08 A bartender at Mary Mary reaches for a bottle of Hillwood Whisky, a Tasmanian single malt.

Evening The Tasman Hobart sets the tone for the night ahead — the storied hotel’s architecture is a mashup of three eras: 19th-century Georgian sandstone, 20thcentury art deco and a contemporary glass pavilion. Inside you’ll find Mary Mary, a speakeasy-style haunt serving up classic cocktails using spirits from Tasmania. I sidle up to the bar with a vodka martini and watch the mixologists at work. For dinner, I carry on to Brooke Street Pier overlooking the harbor and unfold my napkin in front of the open kitchen at Restaurant Maria, enveloped in sculpted wood furniture and a mirrored ceiling. The focus here is on Mediterranean flavors, says chef and co-owner Christian Ryan. “This is a style of food I love eating, so I wanted to see how we could infuse some Tasmanian ingredients.” Tiny, indulgent

dishes are served in handmade stoneware, rendering them even more delicious. The meal begins with small bites of octopus and macadamia hummus, then oysters followed by fresh Tasmanian scallops. The lamb shoulder practically melts in my mouth. After the last bite of a sorbetmeringue dessert, I wonder how I’ll ever top the experience. For my final stop, I visit another speakeasy, Pablo’s Cocktails & Dreams, on tucked-away Harrington Street, a relaxing 15-minute stroll toward downtown. It’s a rustic hidden gem, doubling as a live venue for jazz, folk and indie bands. My day has been full, but with Hobart’s soothing mix of urban institutions and nearby rural escapes, it’s one of those rare places where you can tick all the boxes yet not feel rushed or exhausted at the end of it all. 

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W H E R E T O S TAY DOUBLETREE BY HILTON HOBART

With a prime location, walking distance from the core’s attractions and retail action, this 206-room haven lends a warm welcome in the Central Business District. Rooms have a contemporary feel, with large photographs nodding to the city’s maritime heritage and panoramic views of either the water or the mountains. Relax in the heated indoor pool, then grab a nightcap at the brasserie-style Leatherwood Bar & Kitchen, with its all-day, locally inspired cuisine.

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TRY THIS

Finding Crete’s Soul From storied monasteries and hand-molded ceramics to fresh feta and a cool glass of Vidiano, a tour of this timeless Greek island has something for everyone. By Stefanie Sosiak

“We’re headed into the heart of Crete,” says our guide, Theodore Vlachopoulos, as we wind along narrow roads between olive groves. It’s the first time my partner and I have been to Crete and we’re on a private full-day tour with Luxury Tales, an outfitter that crafts immersive itineraries throughout Greece. Since Crete is the largest and most populous of the Greek Islands, Vlachopoulos has designed a tour for us around one section of it: Mylopotamos, an area rich in agriculture, craft and history, just east of where we’re staying in Chaniá, on the island’s northwestern coast. “In every corner you can find a cultural jewel,” says Vlachopoulos. We explore one of these at Kapsaliana Village, a former settlement built around an olive-oil mill from the 1700s that’s

been transformed into a boutique resort. Along narrow, stone-walled paths with cascading pink bougainvillea, we walk toward the abandoned mill, now a historical feature on the property. Here, we learn the process for making olive oil — with no modern mechanics, just human ingenuity and traditional stone and wood tools. The mill supplied oil to the still-active Sacred Monastery of Arkadi, a well-known Cretan symbol of freedom and strength, and our next stop. In 1866, during the Cretan Revolt, the fortress-like monastery was a stronghold against Ottoman forces, a place where the resistance operated and locals sought shelter. In a historic two-day siege, rather than surrender to the army, Cretans blew up the gunpowder room they were gathered in — a heroic stand against the Ottoman Empire.

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PHOTOS: STEFANIE SOSIAK (LEFT); COURTESY OF KLADOS WINERY (RIGHT).

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT Michalis Arkadiano, owner of Arkadianos Farm, strikes a pose in the cheese-tasting hut; nestled between rolling hills of olive groves, Klados Winery produces local grape varieties including Liatiko, Kotsifali and Vidiano.

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TRY THIS

OUTFITTER

Luxury Tales

This woman-owned outfitter launched in Athens in 2000. It offers immersive experiences across Greece with organized multi-day or bespoke itineraries, including chartered yacht trips and weddings in Santorini. DURATION

Full day WHEN TO GO

From spring to fall, but it’s best to visit late September to early October to beat the crowds and enjoy the Mediterranean Sea at its warmest. UPGRADE

From Kapsaliana, we travel east to Margarites, a village famous for pottery. At Tsikalario, a local ceramics workshop and museum, I admire the terracotta-colored vessels lining the terrace — called pitharia, they were historically used to store olive oil, wine and grains. “Since these vessels are so large, they needed to be built in layers,” Vlachopoulos says, pointing to the stratifications. We spot an artisan at work and wander over to watch as she throws a beautifully sculpted vase on the wheel. When it’s my turn to try, I guide the slippery clay with my fingers, but despite some prior experience, I end up with a wobbly-looking bowl. I think I’ll leave it to the pros. For lunch, we sit under a thick canopy of trees at local taverna Mántalos, and share plates of perfectly grilled lamb chops doused in fresh lemon juice and the Cretan specialty chochlioi yahni (local snails stewed in tomato sauce). The meal ends the Cretan way with small glasses of raki, a strong pomace brandy. Lunch inspires us to learn more about the local cuisine, so we head north to Arkadianos Farm, a third-generation dairy farm producing goat- and sheep-milk goods. Owner Michalis Arkadianos introduces us to some of the animals — and hands me a surprisingly large, three-month-old goat. I balance its round belly in my arms as it gobbles down a mouthful of leaves from the tree that’s mercifully shading me from the midday sun.

“Each season, our sheep produce 300 to 350 liters of milk, and our goats 500 liters,” says Arkadianos, leading us to the small factory where they turn the milk into cheeses, yogurts and desserts like rice pudding. The air is thick with the briny smell of fresh cheese as trays of feta drain on a nearby metal table. In a small wood-paneled hut, we sample feta, myzithra (a Greek whey cheese similar to ricotta), yogurts and a layered vanilla and chocolate pudding. All have a lovely mild flavor that has me going back for seconds and thirds. We take some of the sheep yogurt and chocolate pudding to go. Dusk sets in as we arrive at family-run Klados Winery, our last stop. Our vineyard guide, Christina Ploumi, describes the varietals they use to make the wines they’ve been producing here for nearly 30 years. I’m most interested in the Vidiano, a white grape indigenous to the region that was close to extinction up until the early 2000s. Klados was one of the first wineries to commercially bottle Vidiano, and today it’s the most prized grape variety in Crete. The fruity and herbal Heritage 2909/22 is made with 100-percent Vidiano grapes and is the perfect way to end our Cretan day. As we head back to Chaniá, the sun setting behind the peaks of the White Mountains, we think about all we experienced and how much there still is to discover. We know we’ll be back one day. 

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Trips can be customized based on interests, location and desired duration. Ask your Ensemble travel advisor about designing a private or exclusive experience.

Contact your Ensemble travel advisor to book this experience.

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PORT OF CALL

FAST FACTS

Singapore

Currency Singapore dollar (SGD)

Languages Malay, English, Mandarin and Tamil

By Jody Robbins

Tipping Not expected, but many restaurants will add a 10% service charge.

Temperature Average daily high of 88–91°F/31–33°C

SINGAPORE TRIVIA

History Formerly inhabited by fishermen, Singapore became a British trading hub in the 19th century. Following the Second World War, it briefly joined Malaysia, but was expelled in 1965, prompting rapid industrialization.

Geography

ingapore fits an entire nation into a footprint roughly the size of New York City. Filling every square mile intentionally, the island city-state has spent centuries layering cultures, cuisines and ambitions on top of each other. Chinese temples, Indian spice markets and golden-domed mosques sit within walking distance of one another, linked by hawker centers turning out some of the best eats in Asia (many of Singapore’s hawker stalls are recognized in the Michelin Guide). Colonial shophouses share streets with futuristic skyscrapers, and the Garden City is going greener by the year: By 2030, Singapore aims to have nearly 500 acres of skyrise greenery and plant at least 170,000 more trees in industrial areas. While other cities lean on history or reinvention, Singapore moves between both with ease.

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Singapore is an archipelago of more than 60 islands. Through land reclamation, it’s expanded by approximately 25 percent since becoming an independent republic.

Chew on This While importing and selling gum is prohibited, chewing it is perfectly legal. Disposing gum improperly, however, is an offense that can carry hefty fines.

CRUISE SHIP ILLUSTRATION: CLAIRE M c CRACKEN. PHOTO: JOHN SEATON CALLAHAN/GETTY IMAGES (TRIVIA).

Plan to arrive in Singapore well before your cruise: From architectural marvels and futuristic gardens to bustling hawker markets, there’s loads to explore in this modern, multicultural metropolis.

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PORT OF CALL

E AT T H I S

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF SUPERMAMA (THE SOUVENIR); DANIEL WELSH/UNSPLASH (CAN’T MISS); TOPNTP/ADOBE STOCK (EAT THIS – HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE); IKA RAHMA/ADOBE STOCK (EAT THIS – KAYA TOAST); DEVANSH BHIKAJEE/UNSPLASH (INSIDER TIP); COURTESY OF MALAY HERITAGE CENTRE (NEW IN TOWN).

THE SOUVENIR

Blue and white porcelain has been part of Singapore’s history for centuries. For its Singapore Blue collection, Supermama celebrates this heritage, collaborating with local artists to reinterpret everyday scenes and landmarks on porcelain plates and housewares that deserve to be carefully packed and shown off at home.

CAN’T MISS

Gardens by the Bay

Eighteen Supertrees — some reaching up to 16 storeys high — tower over this sprawling park attraction like a forest reimagined. Planted with thousands of ferns and orchids, these vertical gardens also collect rainwater, generate solar power and act as bioincinerators. Each evening, the whole grove lights up in a free music-and-lights show. Worth the price of admission is a stroll along the aerial OCBC Skyway between the trees.

Hainanese Chicken Rice The city-state’s unofficial national dish is more than the sum of its parts. Rice is the hero, simmered in aromatics and chicken broth, but the exceptionally tender poached chicken comes a close second.

Kaya Toast To make this breakfast staple, white bread is grilled over charcoal, then slathered with butter and kaya (a spread made from coconut milk, eggs, sugar and pandan). Dip it in the soft-boiled eggs whipped with soy sauce that are served alongside.

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INSIDER TIP

It’s worth it to arrive at Jewel Changi Airport even earlier than recommended. Part international airport, part indoor nature park, part lifestyle complex, it’s home to the world’s tallest indoor waterfall. Shop the mall to score a reprieve from the 9% sales tax (eligible visitors can claim a GST refund at self-help kiosks) — and don’t miss the free massage chairs along the way.

NEW IN TOWN

Malay Heritage Centre After a multi-year renovation, the Malay Heritage Centre recently reopened in Kampong Gelam, the heart of Singapore’s Malay and Muslim communities. Housed in a former Malay palace, its redesigned galleries trace how migration, trade and cultural exchange shaped Malay identity across the region. Entry is free for visitors, including guided tours of the center and the Kampong Gelam neighborhood.

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PORT OF CALL

Pan Pacific Orchard, Singapore

DAY T R I P

Johor Bahru, Malaysia A 45-minute drive across the Causeway from central Singapore, Johor Bahru awaits with grand mosques, royal heritage and a slower pace that contrasts with Singapore’s bustle. Explore the 19th-century Sultan Abu Bakar State Mosque, then linger over lunch or a spa visit — your money goes further here than in Singapore. A rapid-transit link opening in December 2026 will quicken the commute.

Set at the cusp of the city’s premier shopping belt, four open-air terraces stacked with tropical plantings give this sleek hotel vertical rainforest vibes. If there’s no time for the beach, the lagoon-style pool fringed with palm groves is the next best thing.

DRINK LIKE A LOCAL

DID YOU KNOW?

Almost half of Singapore’s land area is covered in greenery, and the majority of the city’s neighborhoods enjoy tree canopy coverage of at least 30 percent. Under the government’s LUSH (Landscaping for Urban Spaces and High-rises) program, developers are required to replace any greenery lost to construction with rooftop gardens, sky terraces and vertical plantings.

Kopi is the lifeblood of Singapore’s hawker centers and kopitiams (traditional coffee houses). Packing twice the caffeine of Arabica coffee beans, Robusta beans are wok-roasted with a fat source (butter, lard or margarine) and sugar to create a thick, caramelized buzz.

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Marina Bay Sands A stay at this bucket-list property grants exclusive access to the famed 57th-floor infinity pool, complete with unobstructed views of Gardens by the Bay and the bustling harbor. Below, an on-site casino, celebritychef restaurants and a luxury shopping mall mean you never need to leave the premises.

Ask your Ensemble travel advisor about exclusive amenities at these propertites.

PHOTOS: RETROSTUDIO/ADOBE STOCK (DAY TRIP); TANG90246/ADOBE STOCK (DID YOU KNOW?); THAMKC/ADOBE STOCK (DRINK LIKE A LOCAL); COURTESY OF PAN PACIFIC ORCHARD, SINGAPORE (WHERE TO STAY); COURTESY OF MARINA BAY SANDS (WHERE TO STAY).

W H E R E TO S TAY

Stories for Life.

Explore the World in Truly All-Inclusive Luxury Sail the sparkling Mediterranean aboard Scenic Eclipse, The World’s First Discovery Yacht™️, where sun‑drenched coastlines, hidden coves, and timeless seaside villages create moments of wonder at every turn. From relaxed days on the water to immersive discoveries ashore, every moment is designed for effortless indulgence. Every detail is seamlessly taken care of, with enriching excursions designed to bring each destination to life as you relax and experience it in effortless comfort.

TRULY ALL INCLUSIVE

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details.

Devossion by Live Aqua Playa del Carmen Every stay is designed to become a story worth sharing. This adults-only, allinclusive escape blends elevated dining, immersive experiences, and vibrant nightlife with the relaxed energy of Playa del Carmen—perfect for couples, celebrations, and unforgettable escapes.

Grand Fiesta Americana Los Cabos Where dramatic desert landscapes meet the Sea of Cortez, this all-inclusive retreat delivers championship golf, exceptional dining, and spectacular ocean views. It’s a destination for travelers seeking relaxation, discovery, and unforgettable moments from sunrise to sunset.

Fiesta Americana Condesa Cancun A favorite for families and friends alike, this vibrant beachfront resort pairs warm Mexican hospitality with endless activities, exceptional dining, and one of Cancún’s most desirable stretches of Caribbean beach—creating vacations everyone remembers.

Fiesta Americana Riviera Nayarit From sunrise walks along Banderas Bay to evenings filled with regional flavors and unforgettable sunsets, this beachfront escape celebrates the easy rhythm of Mexico’s Pacific coast. Every stay invites guests to slow down, reconnect, and discover why Mexico’s Pacific coast has become one of its most captivating escapes.

PLEASE CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DETAILS. ACAP ULCO • C A NC Ú N • C OZU M E L • LO S CA B O S • P L AYA D E L CA R M E N • P U E R TO VA L L ARTA PU NTA C A NA • RIVIE R A N AYA R I T • S A N M I G U E L D E A L L E N D E

PHOTO: COURTESY OF G ADVENTURES.

EXCLUSIVE OFFERS

Inspired Itineraries Discover a range of journeys — from a small-group tour of Egypt to a two-week river cruise through the heart of Europe — and take advantage of exclusive offers only available when you book with your trusted Ensemble advisor.

EXCLUSIVE OFFERS

G Adventures

See the World Differently with G Adventures

GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS

Experience the world in a more active, immersive way with The Geluxe Collection by G Adventures. Hike, cycle, kayak and connect more deeply with every destination on these premium small-group adventures, featuring elevated accommodations, exceptional dining and unforgettable local experiences. Now’s the perfect time to discover adventure, upgraded.

Ecuador: Volcanoes, the Amazon & the Galápagos Islands

Egypt: Ancient Wonders & Temples of the Nile

Bali and Komodo: Dragons, Rice Terraces & Cultural Ceremonies

1 5 D AY S

7 D AY S

1 2 D AY S

D AT E : January 9, 2027 (additional dates available)

D AT E : February 8, 2027 (additional dates available)

D AT E : February 19, 2027 (additional dates available)

ITINERARY Quito, Ecuador êCotopaxi, Ecuador (overnights) êBaños, Ecuador (overnights) êThe Amazon, Ecuador (overnights) êQuito, Ecuador êPuerto Villamil, Ecuador (overnights) êPuerto Ayora, Ecuador (overnights) êQuito, Ecuador

ITINERARY Cairo, Egypt (overnights) êAswan, Egypt (overnight) êKom Ombo, Egypt (overnights) êLuxor, Egypt (overnight)

ITINERARY Ubud, Indonesia (overnights) êMunduk, Indonesia (overnights) êKomodo, Indonesia (overnights) êCandi Dasa, Indonesia (overnights) êDenpasar, Indonesia

ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE OFFER Book by October 31, 2026, and save 10% per person for travel by May 31, 2027

From US$8,010 | CA$10,125

From US$3,150 | CA$3,825

From US$3,150 | CA$4,320

per person. Taxes and fees included.*

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Holland America Line

Sun Escapes with Koningsdam

VANCOUVER, CANADA

Sail conveniently from the west coast aboard Holland America’s magnificent Koningsdam. Explore Hawaii, Mexico and the South Pacific — where relaxing sea days lead to vibrant cultures, pristine lagoons, volcanic landscapes, rich history and unforgettable coastal cuisine.

Circle Hawaii 1 7 D AY S

D AT E : October 2, 2027 S H I P : Koningsdam ITINERARY Vancouver, British Columbia êDays at Sea êNāwiliwili, Kauai, Hawaii êHonolulu, Hawaii (overnight) êKona, Hawaii êKahului, Maui, Hawaii êHilo, Hawaii êDays at Sea êVancouver, British Columbia ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE OFFER US$75 onboard credit per stateroom

Mexican Riviera & Sea of Cortez

Hawaii, Tahiti & Marquesas Legendary Voyage

1 0 D AY S

3 5 D AY S

D AT E : November 27, 2027 S H I P : Koningsdam

D AT E : February 19, 2028 S H I P : Koningsdam

ITINERARY San Diego, California êDays at Sea êCabo San Lucas, Mexico êPichilingue (La Paz), Mexico êLoreto, Mexico êDays at Sea êMazatlán, Mexico êPuerto Vallarta, Mexico êDays at Sea êSan Diego, California

ITINERARY San Diego, California êDays at Sea êHilo, Hawaii êKahului, Hawaii êHonolulu, Hawaii (overnight) êNāwiliwili, Kauai, Hawaii êDays at Sea êTabuaeran (Fanning Island), Kiribati êDays at Sea êRaiatea, French Polynesia (overnight) êPapeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia (overnight) êBahia d’Opunohu, Moorea, French Polynesia (overnight) êDays at Sea êFakarava, French Polynesia êDays at Sea êTaiohae, Nuku Hiva, French Polynesia êDays at Sea êSan Diego, California

ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE OFFER US$75 onboard credit per stateroom

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ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE OFFER US$100 onboard credit per stateroom From US$3,453 | CA$5,041

From US$1,961 | CA$2,843

From US$7,277 | CA$10,551

per person (VE), based on double occupancy and promo LG. Fare includes taxes and fees.*

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EXCLUSIVE OFFERS

AmaWaterways

Unlock Exclusive Upgrade Rewards

STRASBOURG, FRANCE

Embark on an unforgettable AmaWaterways river cruise and take advantage of our special upgrade rewards program on select 2027 Europe, Asia, Egypt and Colombia sailings. Enjoy valuable added amenities that can be combined with other exceptional offers, including complimentary land packages, triple savings and more, making your journey even more rewarding.

Best of Holland & Belgium

Captivating Rhine

Melodies of the Danube

7 NIGHTS

D AT E : March 17, 2027 S H I P : AmaViola

D AT E : March 21, 2027 S H I P : AmaStella

D AT E : April 7, 2027 S H I P : AmaSonata

ITINERARY Amsterdam, Netherlands (overnight) êHellevoetsluis, Netherlands êGhent, Belgium êBrussels, Belgium êAntwerp, Belgium êDordrecht, Netherlands êAmsterdam, Netherlands

ITINERARY Amsterdam, Netherlands (overnight) êDüsseldorf, Germany êRüdesheim, Germany êLudwigshafen, Germany êStrasbourg, France êBreisach, Germany êBasel, Switzerland

ITINERARY Budapest, Hungary (overnight) êBratislava, Slovakia êVienna, Austria êWeissenkirchen, Austria êLinz, Austria êPassau, Germany êVilshofen, Germany

ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE OFFER US$300 onboard credit per stateroom on select sailings

From US$3,899 | CA$4,857

From US$3,899 | CA$5,262

From US$4,299 | CA$5,802

per person (Fixed Window Stateroom), based on double occupancy. Fare includes taxes and fees.*

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ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE OFFER US$300 onboard credit per stateroom on select sailings

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Globus

Travel that Sets You Free

A M A L F I C O A S T, I TA LY

Today’s travelers want more than a trip — they want a trip that fits them. That’s where Globus comes in. Globus has evolved the traditional tour into something smarter, more flexible and far more personal, from multiple touring styles and built-in free time to experiences designed to bring travelers closer to the places they visit.

Italian Tapestry 9 D AY S

D AT E : April 3, 2027 ITINERARY Venice Island, Italy (overnights) êFlorence, Italy (overnight) êSiena, Italy (overnight) êRome, Italy (overnights) êSorrento, Italy (overnights) ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE OFFER Book a select 2027 Globus Europe departure and receive a US$100 per person optional excursion credit*

From the Liffey to the Thames

Paris, Normandy, & Châteaux Country

1 3 D AY S

9 D AY S

D AT E : July 7, 2027

D AT E : August 14, 2027

ITINERARY Dublin, Ireland (overnights) êKillarney, Ireland (overnight) êLimerick, Ireland (overnight) êSligo, Ireland (overnight) êBelfast, Northern Ireland (overnight) êEdinburgh, Scotland (overnights) êYork, England (overnight) êStratfordupon-Avon, England (overnight) êLondon, England (overnights)

ITINERARY Paris, France (overnights) êDeauville, France (overnights) êMont Saint-Michel, France (overnight) êLoire Valley, France (overnights) êParis, France (overnight)

ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE OFFER Book a select 2027 Globus Europe departure and receive a US$100 per person optional excursion credit*

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ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE OFFER Book a select 2027 Globus Europe departure and receive a US$100 per person optional excursion credit*

From US$4,199 | CA$5,837

From US$4,619 | CA$6,420

From US$3,299 | CA$4,586

per person. Taxes and fees included.*

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Royal Caribbean

Wow-worthy Weekends

R OYA L C A R I B B E A N

Put your hands together for Oasis Class weekends, packed with award-winning entertainment and nonstop nightlife. Watch daring AquaTheater dives, stunt-filled ice shows and adults-only comedy. Sip cocktails at 13 bars, salsa the night away at Boleros and belt out favorites at spotlight karaoke. Discover why Royal Caribbean has been voted Best Entertainment by Travel Weekly readers for nine years running.

Perfect Day at CocoCay & Bahamas

3 NIGHTS

5 NIGHTS

4 NIGHTS

D AT E : May 7, 2027 S H I P : Utopia of the Seas

D AT E : August 28, 2027 S H I P : Harmony of the Seas

D AT E : September 27, 2027 S H I P : Wonder of the Seas

ITINERARY Port Canaveral (Orlando), Florida êNassau, The Bahamas êPerfect Day at CocoCay, The Bahamas êPort Canaveral (Orlando), Florida

ITINERARY Port Canaveral (Orlando), Florida êDay at Sea êNassau, The Bahamas êPerfect Day at CocoCay, The Bahamas êDay at Sea êPort Canaveral (Orlando), Florida

ITINERARY Miami, Florida êPerfect Day at CocoCay, The Bahamas êNassau, The Bahamas êDay at Sea êMiami, Florida

ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE OFFER Up to US$100 onboard credit

From US$757 | CA$1,013

From US$789 | CA$1,081

From US$675 | CA$915

per person (Oceanview Balcony), based on double occupancy. Fare includes taxes and fees.*

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ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE OFFER Up to US$100 onboard credit

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EXCLUSIVE OFFERS

Viking

Unpack Once and Explore Europe with Viking

COLOGNE, FRANCE

There’s simply no better way to experience the rivers and oceans of the world than from the comfort of one of Viking’s elegant, small ships. Viking provides destination-focused, culturally enriching voyages designed for English-speaking, mature couples with curious minds and an interest in history, culture and geography.

Explore France’s Riviera & Tuscany

A Region Shaped by Tradition

Travel Through the Heart of Europe

8 D AY S

1 5 D AY S

D AT E : February 3, 2027 S H I P : Viking Vesta

D AT E : July 23, 2027 S H I P : Viking Mani

D AT E : September 23, 2027 S H I P : Viking Tir

ITINERARY Civitavecchia (Rome), Italy êLivorno (Florence), Italy êMonte Carlo, Monaco êMarseille, France êSète, France êBarcelona, Spain

ITINERARY Amsterdam, Netherlands êKinderdijk, Netherlands êCologne, Germany êKoblenz, Germany êRüdesheim, Germany êSpeyer, Germany êStrasbourg, France êBreisach, Germany êBasel, Switzerland

ITINERARY Budapest, Hungary ê Vienna, Austria êMelk, Austria êPassau, Germany êRegensburg, Germany êNuremberg, Germany êBamberg, Germany êWürzburg, Germany êWertheim, Germany êKoblenz, Germany êKinderdijk, Netherlands êAmsterdam, Netherlands

ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE OFFER US$200 shipboard credit per stateroom on select 2027 voyages

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ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE OFFER US$200 shipboard credit per stateroom on select 2027 voyages

From US$2,699 | CA$4,049

From US$3,799 | CA$5,699

From US$10,299 | CA$15,499

per person (Deluxe Veranda, DV6) based on double occupancy. Fare includes taxes and fees.*

per person (Veranda, B) based on double occupancy. Fare includes taxes and fees.*

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O U T TA K E

Beyond the buzz that defines Marrakech lies a quieter side of the city. Gueliz, a district northwest of the medina, offers a slower pace and a cosmopolitan vibe. Established in 1931, it’s now home to elegant boutiques and restaurants. “This is my wife, Sidonie,” says photographer Alex Crétey Systermans. “I couldn’t help but notice her dress was the same shade as the iconic Marrakech green.”

PHOTO: ALEX CRÉTEY SYSTERMANS. TEXT: ROBERT LIWANAG.

Marrakech, Morocco

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IT’S ALWAYS SUMMER IN THE CARIBBEAN

Your biggest, boldest weekend ever starts onboard Allure ®, Utopia ®, Wonder ® and Oasis of the Seas ®. Escape to the sun and party it up with your choice of five shimmering pools and adrenaline-pumping waterslides. Enjoy over 18 dining destinations that make every meal momentous and take your pick from more bars & lounges than ever before, plus world-class entertainment. Every short sailing stops at the award-winning Perfect Day CocoCay. So, grab your crew and weekend bolder, only on Royal Caribbean ®.

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details or to book.

Coco Beach Club ® — Perfect Day CocoCay

Wave Pool — Thrill Water Park

The Perfect Storm ® Waterslides

Travel Better Thank you for traveling with us in the latest issue of Range by Ensemble. Start planning your next journey — beyond these pages — with your trusted Ensemble travel advisor.