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18 b raiding and b raid e xtensions / 506

Why Study Braiding and Braid Extensions? / 508

Understanding the Basics / 509

Braiding the Hair / 514

Procedures / 520

19 Wigs and Hair a dditions / 538

Why Study Wigs and Hair Additions? / 541

Human versus Synthetic Hair / 541

Wigs / 544

Hairpieces / 550

Hair Extensions / 553

20 c hemical texture Services / 562

Why Study Chemical Texture Services? / 564

The Structure of Hair / 564

Permanent Waving / 567

Chemical Hair Relaxers / 583

Curl Re-Forming (Soft Curl Permanents) / 591

Procedures / 593

21 Haircoloring / 626

Why Study Haircoloring? / 629

Why People Color Their Hair / 629

Hair Facts / 630

Identifying Natural Hair Color and Tone / 631

Types of Haircolor / 636

Consultation / 642

Haircolor Formulation/ 643

Haircolor Applications / 647

Using Lighteners / 650

Using Toners / 652

Special Effects Haircoloring / 653

Special Challenges in Haircolor/ Corrective Solutions / 655

Haircoloring Safety Precautions / 663

Procedures / 664

Part 4 Skin care / 685

22 Hair r emoval / 686

Why Study Hair Removal? / 688

Client Consultation / 689

Contraindications for Hair Removal / 690

Permanent Hair Removal / 692

Temporary Hair Removal / 693 Procedures / 696

23 Facials / 708

Why Study Facials? / 710

Skin Analysis and Consultation / 710

Determining Skin Type / 716

Skin Care Products / 718

Client Consultation / 723

Facial Massage / 725

Facial Equipment / 733

Electrotherapy and Light Therapy / 734

Facial Treatments / 737

Aromatherapy / 740 Procedures / 741

24 Facial Makeup / 756

Why Study Facial Makeup? / 758

Cosmetics for Facial Makeup / 758

Makeup Color Theory / 767

Basic Professional Makeup Application / 771

Special-Occasion Makeup / 773

Corrective Makeup / 774

Artificial Eyelashes / 783

Procedures / 784

Part 5 nail care / 791

25 Manicuring / 792

Why Study Manicuring? / 794

Nail Technology Tools / 794

Professional Cosmetic Products / 803

The Basic Manicure / 807

A Man’s Manicure Service / 810

Massage / 811

Spa Manicures / 813

Aromatherapy / 814

Paraffin Wax Treatments / 815

Nail Art / 816

Only the Beginning / 816 Procedures / 817

26 Pedicuring / 842

Why Study Pedicuring? / 844

Pedicure Tools / 845

About Pedicures / 851

Disinfection / 859

Procedures / 863

27 n ail tips and Wraps / 872

Why Study Nail Tips and Wraps? / 874

Nail Tips / 874

Nail Wraps / 876

Nail Wrap Maintenance, Repair, and Removal / 877 Procedures / 879

28 Monomer l iquid and Polymer Powder n ail e nhancements / 896

Why Study Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements? / 898

Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements / 898

Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail

Enhancement Supplies / 901

Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail

Enhancement Maintenance, Crack Repair, and Removal / 904

Odorless Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Products / 906

Colored Polymer Powder Products / 907 Procedures / 908

29 u V Gels / 924

Why Study UV Gels? / 926

UV Gels / 926

UV Gel Supplies / 929

When to Use UV Gels / 931

Choosing the Proper UV Gel / 931

UV Light Units and Lamps / 932

UV Gel Polish / 933

UV Gel Maintenance and Removal / 934 Procedures / 935

Part 6 buSineSS SkillS / 955

30 Seeking e mployment / 956

Why Study How to Prepare for and Seek Employment? / 958

Preparing for Licensure / 958

Preparing for Employment / 963

The Job Interview / 974

31 On the Job / 984

Why Study What It Is Like on the Job? / 986

Moving from School to Work / 986

Out in the Real World / 987

Managing Your Money / 993

Discover the Selling You / 996

Keeping Current Clients and Expanding Your Client Base / 1001

On Your Way / 1004

32 t he Salon b usiness / 1006

Why Study the Salon Business? / 1008

Going into Business for Yourself / 1008

Operating a Successful Salon / 1019

Building Your Business / 1026

a ppendix a Associations / 1031

a ppendix b Metric Conversions / 1032

Glossary/ i ndex / 1034

Procedures at a Glance

5–1

Disinfecting Nonelectrical Tools and Implements / 96

5–2 Disinfecting Foot Spas or Basins / 97

5–3 Proper Hand Washing / 102

15–1 Pre-Service Procedure / 323

15–2 Post-Service Procedure / 326

15–3 Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment / 328

15–4 Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment / 329

15–5 Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment /330

15–6 Antidandruff Treatment / 331

15–7 Hair Brushing / 332

15–8 Draping for a Basic Shampooing and Conditioning / 333

15–9 Draping for a Chemical Service / 334

15–10 Basic Shampooing and Conditioning / 335

15–11 Scalp Massage / 338

16–1 Blunt Haircut with Fringe: Right-Handed / 384

16–1 Blunt Haircut with Fringe: Left-Handed / 388

16–2 Graduated Haircut: Right-Handed / 392

16–2 Graduated Haircut: Left-Handed / 397

16–3 Uniform-Layered Haircut: Right-Handed / 401

16–3 Uniform-Layered Haircut: Left-Handed / 405

16–4 Long-Layered (180-Degree) Haircut: Right-Handed / 408

16–4 Long-Layered (180-Degree) Haircut: LeftHanded / 411

16–5 Men’s Basic Clipper Cut / 413

17–1 Preparing Hair for Wet Styling / 448

17–2 Horizontal Finger Waving: Right-Handed / 450

17–2 Horizontal Finger Waving: Left-Handed / 454

17–3 Carved or Sculpted Curls: Right-Handed / 457

17–3 Carved or Sculpted Curls: Left-Handed / 459

17–4 Wet Set with Rollers / 461

17–5 Hair Wrapping / 463

17–6 Blowdrying Short, Layered, Curly Hair to Produce Smooth and Full Finish: Right-Handed / 465

17–6 Blowdrying Short, Layered, Curly Hair to Produce Smooth and Full Finish: Left-Handed / 467

17–7 Blowdrying Short, Curly Hair in Its Natural Wave Pattern / 469

17–8 Diffusing Long, Curly, or Extremely Curly Hair in Its Natural Wave Pattern / 471

17–9 Blowdrying Straight or Wavy Hair for Maximum Volume: Right-Handed / 472

17–9 Blowdrying Straight or Wavy Hair for Maximum Volume: Left-Handed / 474

17–10 Blowdrying Blunt or Long-Layered, Straight to Wavy Hair into a Straight Style: RightHanded / 476

17–10 Blowdrying Blunt or Long-Layered, Straight to Wavy Hair into a Straight Style: LeftHanded / 479

17–11 Thermal Waving: Right-Handed / 481

17–11 Thermal Waving: Left-Handed / 484

17–12 Curling Short Hair / 487

17–13 Curling Medium-Length Hair / 489

17–14 Curling Hair Using Two Loops or Figure 8 / 491

17–15 Soft Pressing for Normal Curly Hair / 493

17–16 Knot or Chignon / 496

17–17 Twist / 498

17–18 Pleat / 500

18–1 Preparing Textured Hair for Braiding / 520

18–2 Rope Braid / 522

18–3 Fishtail Braid / 524

18–4 Invisible Braid / 526

18–5 Single Braids without Extensions / 528

18–6 Single Braids with Extensions / 530

18–7 Basic Cornrows / 533

18–8 Cornrows with Extensions / 535

20–1 Preliminary Test Curl for a Permanent Wave / 593

20–2 Permanent Wave and Processing Using a Basic Permanent Wrap / 595

20–3 Permanent Wave and Processing Using a Curvature Permanent Wrap / 598

20–4 Permanent Wave and Processing Using a Bricklay Permanent Wrap / 601

20–5 Permanent Wave and Processing Using a Weave Technique / 603

20–6 Permanent Wave and Processing Using a Double-Rod or Piggyback Technique / 605

20–7 Permanent Wave and Processing Using a Spiral Wrap Technique / 607

20–8 Applying Thio Relaxer to Virgin Hair / 610

20–9 Thio Relaxer Retouch / 612

20–10 Applying Hydroxide Relaxer to Virgin Hair / 614

20–11 Hydroxide Relaxer Retouch / 617

20–12 Curl Re-Forming (Soft Curl Perm) / 620

21–1 Performing a Patch Test / 664

21–2 Preliminary Strand Test / 665

21–3 Temporary Haircolor Application / 667

21–4 Semipermanent Haircolor Application / 669

21–5 Single-Process Color on Virgin Hair / 671

21–6 Permanent Single-Process Retouch with a Glaze / 673

21–7 Lightening Virgin Hair / 675

21–8 Toner Application / 677

21–9 Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil (Full Head) / 679

22–1 Pre-Service Procedure / 696

22–2 Post-Service Procedure / 699

22–3 Eyebrow Tweezing / 701

22–4 Eyebrow Waxing / 703

22–5 Body Waxing / 705

23–1 Basic Facial / 741

23–2 Facial for Dry Skin / 746

23–3 Facial for Oily Skin with Open Comedones (Blackheads) / 748

23–4 Facial for Acne-Prone and Problem Skin / 751

24–1 Basic Professional Makeup Application / 784

24–2 Band Lash Application / 787

25–1 Pre-Service Procedure / 817

25–2 Post-Service Procedure / 821

25–3 Proper Hand Washing / 823

25–4 Handling an Exposure Incident During a Manicure / 824

25–5 Performing a Basic Manicure / 826

25–6 Hand and Arm Massage / 831

25–7 Polishing the Nails / 835

25–8 Paraffin Wax Treatment / 837

26–1 The Basic Pedicure / 863

26–2 Foot and Leg Massage / 867

27–1 Nail Tip Application / 879

27–2 Nail Tip Removal / 882

27–3 Nail Wrap Application / 884

27–4 Two-Week Fabric Wrap Maintenance / 887

27–5 Four-Week Fabric Wrap Maintenance / 889

27–6 Fabric Wrap Removal / 892

28–1 One-Color Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements over Nail Tips or Natural Nails / 908

28–2 Two-Color Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements Using Forms / 912

28–3 One-Color Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Maintenance / 916

28–4 Crack Repair for Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements / 919

28–5 Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancement Removal / 921

29–1 One-Color Method UV Gel on Tips or Natural Nails with UV Gel Polish / 935

29–2 Two-Color Method UV Gel on Tips or Natural Nails / 939

29–3 UV Gel over Forms / 942

29–4 UV Gel Maintenance / 945

29–5 UV Gel over Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements with UV Gel Polish / 948

29–6 UV Gel Removal—Hard Gel / 950

29–7 UV Gel Removal—Soft Gel / 951

Preface

Milady Standard Cosmetology

Congratulations! You are about to begin a journey that can take you in many directions and that holds the potential to make you a confident, successful professional in cosmetology. As a cosmetologist, you will become a trusted professional, the person your clients rely on to provide ongoing services that enable them to look and feel their best. You will become as personally involved in your clients’ lives as their physicians or dentists, and with study and practice, you will have the opportunity to showcase your artistic and creative ideas for the entire world to see!

You and your school have chosen the perfect course of study to accomplish all of this and more. Milady Standard Cosmetology was the creation of Nicholas F. Cimaglia, founder of Milady Publishing Company, in 1927. The very first edition of Milady Standard Cosmetology was published in 1938, and since that time, it has consistently been the most-used cosmetology textbook in the world. Many of the world’s most famous, sought-after, successful, and artistic professional cosmetologists have studied this very book!

Milady employs experts from all aspects of the beauty profession—hair care, skin care, nail care, massage, makeup, infection control, and business development—to write for and consult on every textbook published. Since the field of cosmetology is always changing, progressing, and discovering new technologies, services, and styles, Milady keeps a close eye on its texts and is committed to investing the time, energy, resources, and efforts to revising its educational offerings to provide the beauty industry with the most up-to-date and all-encompassing tools available.

So you see, by studying the Milady Standard Cosmetology, you have not simply opened the cover of a textbook, you’ve been adopted by a family of the most well-known and highly respected professional cosmetology educators in the world!

Foreword

A Little Advice from Successful Professionals

You have one decision to make today: Are you going to be your very best self or just get by? That’s it. After all, 90 percent of success is showing up, mentally— and physically. Are you committed to putting a laser focus on learning?

Education makes your life better, happier, richer. Specialized learning builds confidence, leads to a specific career, and opens dozens of unexpected doors. And if you listen to those who have already traversed the path before you, cosmetology training will provide you with the foundation for an exciting, artistic, limitless career that can fulfill what celebrity stylist Ted Gibson calls “Your Big, BIG dream.”

Mr. Nicholas F. Cimaglia, Founder of Milady Publishing Company.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.

“All

say I am a beauty school graduate and very proud of it. I feel fortunate to have found what makes my heart sing.”—Ted Gibson

“Being a hairdresser is like being an athlete. Work hard, focus, and ask for more responsibility. If you do, you’ll get the honor of being included with successful people.” —Beth Minardi

“Developing a great habit of going to school every day will benefit your career as a salon professional. Motivation doesn’t change things; good habits do.”—Robert Cromeans

The 2010 host of TLC’s What Not To Wear and owner of namesake salons in NYC and Washington, D.C., Gibson says that a solid, basic education is vital because what you learn in beauty school will carry you through your career:

“Your cosmetology education gives you the opportunity to do so many things, from working behind the chair to styling celebrities to doing platform work, TV, and movies,” says Gibson. “I love this business!”

The Road to Success

Before you compose your own song of success, take stock of what it will take: hard work, dedication, and plenty of practice. If you’ve been styling friends’ hair since you were ten, you may think you know a lot already, but that’s a trap.

Beth Minardi didn’t become the country’s most accomplished haircolor educator or premiere Manhattan salon owner by happenstance. When she recognized that haircolor was uniquely challenging, she did what all super-successful hairdressers do—she took a chance in order to learn all she could. Armed with a B.A. in Education and Theatre and a cosmetology license, she applied for a job with Clairol. Of her four weeks in training, the first was spent on semipermanent color, the second on the lift and deposit shades, the third on bleaching and toning, and the fourth on special effects.

“After each week, you were tested, and if you failed any test, you were fired,” recalls Minardi. “It made me realize that there is no fashion without foundation, no creativity without the basics.”

While Minardi credits her mentors for understanding that being a great colorist meant mastering theory and all color products, she stresses that success also requires commitment and a healthy body and mind: “When you go to work, it’s show time; there’s no room for gossip, personal problems or partying.”

As for creative ideas, the old adage is true: they originate from more perspiration than inspiration. Robert Cromeans, Global Artistic Director for Paul Mitchell and a Paul Mitchell The School owner, is known for cutting hair with a fork, using electric clippers to create a bob, and even using a staple gun. Here’s what he says about creative genius:

“The truth of the matter is that without the foundation of haircutting under my belt, I would never have been able to create these techniques. It is pivotal to know and understand the rules before you can break them.”

Where Milady Comes In

As you show up each day, ready to be at your mental and physical best, you will have the support of the hundreds of professionals who contributed to the creation of this revised edition of Milady Standard

my training was the best, because now I can
Ted Gibson styling actress Anne Hathaway.
Photo courtesy of Ted Gibson Celebrity Hair Stylist and Owner of the Ted Gibson Salon, NYC. Robert Cromeans.
Photo courtesy of John Paul Mitchell Systems.
Photo courtesy of Beth Minardi, President Minardi Salon.

Cosmetology. Milady was part of Cromeans’ cosmetology curriculum, as well as Minardi’s and Gibson’s. Gibson says he still refers to Milady textbooks regularly. In other words, successful stylists never stop learning.

At the Eric Fisher Academy in Wichita, KS, salon and school owner Eric Fisher, who has won numerous artistic and business awards, chose this very textbook for his students because he considers it the most comprehensive one available.

Technical and Artistic Fundamentals

Look through the Table of Contents, and you’ll see everything from cutting, coloring, perming, and relaxing to the body’s structures, infection control, makeup application, and braiding. Within each chapter, learning objectives are clearly established, terms are simply defined, and review questions help you recall all you’ve learned.

“Sometimes, you don’t even know that you have stumbled upon an aspect of the profession that you will love for the rest of your career,” comments Colleen Hennessey, a colorist, salon owner, and P&G School Manager Consultant. “That’s why it is important to learn all that you can. Without being exposed to all cosmetology has to offer, you can’t make sound choices about the direction you want to take.”

Even if you think you already know which area of cosmetology interests you most, developing skills in many disciplines is important because— combined—they provide the solid foundation that can take you anywhere.

“When I went to school, I learned roller placement, how to accommodate the hair’s movement, and how to work with bone structure,” recalls Fisher. “I’m grateful for those basics because they eventually allowed me to travel the world, own a successful business, do hair for video shoots, and more. It’s like basketball: you can run, pass, and alley-oop, but the game is won at the free throw line. Fundamentals—strong foundations—build houses that can survive any threat from inside or out.”

At Fisher’s Academy, the motto is student for life, and it works well. His students have gone on to work at top New York City salons, travel the world, and even win the student category at the North American Hairdressing Awards (something Fisher himself won in other categories).

“Every day in school, think about the kind of person you want to be,” advises Fisher. “You don’t have to be a superstar to achieve greatness—repetition and practice lead to success. Offer to help others just for the opportunity to learn. You have to do more than you get paid for, before you can get paid for more than you do.”

Strong Interpersonal Skills

With focus, foundation, repetition, and practice, anyone can master the technical aspects of this wonderful profession. But hairdressing

“Don’t be afraid to admit you have to learn more. Remember, knowledge is power.”
—Colleen Hennessey
“If you practice anything for one hour every day for 365 days, you can be a national expert. You need the attitude that goes with it, which means embracing the positive. Smile often. Make others feel welcome and important.”
—Eric Fisher

is also an emotional field, one that requires you to be a people person. What that really means is that you must have a positive attitude and be able to listen, read others, and speak their language.

That’s why this textbook includes details on conducting a great consultation, working with difficult clients and co-workers, and other life skills that you’ll begin to hone during the clinic phase of your training. Throughout the chapters, activities and real-life examples help you develop the good work habits and interpersonal skills that accomplished professionals say are a must.

“I believe anyone who shows professionalism, discipline, and commitment over many years of hard work can do what I do.”
—Nick Arrojo

“Success as a hairdresser is about more than cutting and coloring skills,” notes Nick Arrojo, who educates on platform for Wella, oversees his New York City-based Arrojo Studio and Arrojo Education, and preceded Gibson as the hair guru of TLC’s What Not To Wear. “You have to be a great communicator. You need to know the challenges of different hair types, the importance of cleanliness, both of yourself and your environment, and you must be able to retail.”

“The so-called non-artistic parts of the profession are actually arts in themselves, because you’re learning how to communicate with a person who has different tastes and desires than you do,” says Minardi. “Your body language, facial expression, and carriage are all part of being successful. After awhile, applying color is the easier part; it takes longer to do the rest well.”

Cromeans adds that developing great habits will help you through both the artistic and interpersonal aspects of hairdressing.

“Focus equally on your technical skills and on your dialogue, chairside manner, and ability to celebrate each (client),” he says.

Business Basics and Beyond

When it comes down to it, cosmetology comprises three tiers. First, it’s an artistically expressive field. Second, it relies on human dynamics and personal interaction, so that one individual can make another look and feel fabulous. Third, cosmetology is a business.

The final chapters of this book, which you will study near the end of your schooling, detail the employment search, the job interview, and business basics, from salon design to personnel management. You’ll want to refer to these chapters often as you enter the working world and progress toward achieving your big dream.

“Your passion for the art may drive your fire, but to succeed, you also need business discipline,” says Fisher. “Each stylist should know his or her average service and retail ticket, retention and prebooking rates, and future goals for next week and next month.”

Photo courtesy of Jammi York/Arrojo.

“Being a strong business person is the best way to give your creativity the freedom to flourish,” stresses Arrojo. “You must have enough money to pay the bills. Keep learning, stay focused, and continue doing the right things every day. There’s no race to the finish line. Technique, creativity, confidence, and communication can all be taught, but only with time can you gain experience. With experience, opportunities follow.”

Opportunities for Life

Many professionals say that as they grew into their careers, they found themselves wishing they had paid more attention in school. They also say that they are grateful for everything they learned, even things they hadn’t thought useful at the time. Hairdressers are no different.

Whether you want to be a Hollywood stylist, a corporate educator, the owner of a spa, or the world’s greatest braider, learning all you can now and finding a great mentor will help you achieve your goal.

“Don’t get ahead of yourself and think you’re a superstar,” cautions Hennessey. “Have a good work ethic. Be a team player. Continue your education. And be willing to put in long hours on your feet.”

Arrojo stresses that winners are always on time, respect their peers, and accept criticism as a positive learning experience. Cromeans advises forming good habits and being prepared every day to go for it: “You have to be present to win.”

“There are no shortcuts to fame,” says Minardi. “Your head, heart, and hands are what will make you a success.”

If you’re ready to apply all three, take a big step toward your future, and turn the page!

The Industry Standard

This edition of Milady Standard Cosmetology is jam-packed with new and compelling information and photography that will enable you to not only pass your licensing exams, but also to ensure your success once you are on the job.

Before beginning this revision, Milady surveyed hundreds of educators and professionals, held focus groups, and received in-depth comments from dozens of reviewers to learn what needed to be changed, added, or deleted from the previous edition. We then consulted with educational experts to learn the best way to present the material, so that all types of learners could understand and remember it. Next we went to several experts in various cosmetology-related fields to write or revise the chapters. Milady then held a seventeen-day photo shoot to update the technical art for chapter and procedural steps. Finally, we sent the finished manuscripts to yet more subject experts to ensure the accuracy and thoroughness of the material. What you hold in your hands is the result. Enjoy it, and best of luck as you start your career in the beauty industry.

Dawn Gerrain President Milady

New to this Edition

In response to the suggestions of the cosmetology educators and professionals who reviewed the Milady Standard Cosmetology and to those submitted by students who use this text, this edition includes many new features and learning tools.

Alignment

Milady has carefully aligned all of its core textbooks. This means that information appearing in more than one text—whether it be cosmetology, nail technology, or esthetics—now matches from one book to another.

Design

Milady has also dramatically changed the design of the textbook—it now has a very exciting fashion magazine feel—to reflect the innovative and unique energy and artistry found in the beauty business.

Photography and Art

You’ll also notice that there are more than 750 new, four-color photographs and illustrations throughout the book, appearing in both chapter content and step-by-step procedures. In addition, all of the new procedure photographs were taken using live models, instead of mannequins.

Pre- and Post-Service Procedures

To drive home the point that pre-service cleaning, disinfecting, and preparing for the client are important, you will find that a unique PreService Procedure has been created to specifically address the individual needs of each Part—hair care, skin care, and nail care. Additionally, a Post-Service Procedure has been created to address cleaning, disinfecting, and organizing after servicing a client. Both the Pre-Service and PostService Procedures appear in every part of the text for you to quickly and easily refer to and follow.

Why Study This?

Milady knows, understands, and appreciates how excited students are to delve into the newest and most exciting haircutting, styling, and coloring trends, and we recognize that students can sometimes feel restless spending time learning the basics of the profession. To help you understand why you are learning each chapter’s material and to help you see the role it will play in your future career as a cosmetologist, Milady has added this new section to each chapter. The section includes three or four bullet points that tell you why the material is important and how you will use the material in your professional career.

Left-Handed Instruction

This new edition includes left-handed procedures in the haircutting, hairstyling, and haircoloring chapters with full color photography. For the first time in a textbook students will see professionals using their left hand to hold and manipulate hair and tools.

All About Shears

One of the most important and costly tools a cosmetologist will buy is a pair—or several pairs—of haircutting shears, so Milady has dedicated an entire section of the haircutting chapter to never-before-available information on how to purchase, use, and maintain your shears. The section is complete with photos of the kinds of shears available and the proper way to care for them.

New Organization of Chapters

The information in this text, along with your teachers’ instruction, will enable you to develop the abilities you need to build a loyal and satisfied clientele. To help you locate information more easily, the chapters are grouped into six main parts.

Part 1: Orientation

Orientation consists of four chapters that cover the field of cosmetology and the personal skills you will need to become successful. Chapter 1, “History and Career Opportunities,” outlines how the profession of cosmetology came into being and where it can take you. In Chapter 2, “Life Skills,” the ability to set goals and maintain a good attitude is emphasized, along with the psychology of success. Chapter 3, “Your Professional Image,” stresses the importance of inward beauty and health as well as outward appearance, and Chapter 4, “Communicating for Success,” describes the important process of building client relationships based on trust and effective communication.

Part 2: General Sciences

General Sciences includes important information you need to know in order to keep yourself and your clients safe and healthy. Chapter 5, “Infection Control: Principles and Practices,” offers the most current, vital facts about hepatitis, HIV, and other infectious viruses and bacteria and tells how to prevent their spread in the salon. The remaining chapters in Part 2—“General Anatomy and Physiology,” “Skin Structure, Growth, and Nutrition,” “Skin Disorders and Diseases,” “Nail Structure and Growth,” “Nail Disorders and Diseases,” “Properties of the Hair and Scalp,” “Basics of Chemistry,” and “Basics of Electricity”— provide essential information that will affect how you interact with clients and how you use service products and tools.

Also, you’ll notice that the “Skin Disorders and Diseases” and “Nail Disorders and Diseases” chapters were moved from their previous

locations to this section, where all of the other science chapters are located—by request of instructors and students.

Part 3: Hair care

Hair Care offers information on every aspect of hair. “Principles of Hair Design” explores the ways hair can be sculpted to enhance a client’s facial shape. The foundation of every hair service is covered in “Scalp Care, Shampooing, and Conditioning,” followed by an updated “Haircutting” chapter, complete with step-by-step procedures for core cuts with fantastic new glamour shots to show the finished look. Stepby-step procedures are also found in “Hairstyling,” which includes information on new tools and techniques. Another revised chapter, “Braiding and Braid Extensions,” is followed by “Wigs and Hair Additions,” and both “Chemical Texture Services” and “Haircoloring” reflect the most recent advances in these areas.

Part 4: Skin care

Skin Care focuses on another area in which new advances have altered the way students must be trained. This part begins with a chapter on “Hair Removal,” which covers waxing, tweezing, and other popular methods of removing unwanted hair from the face and body. Next, the basics of skin care is covered in “Facials” and makeup application in “Facial Makeup.” These two chapters offer the critical information you’ll need for these increasingly requested services in the expanding field of esthetics. Procedures are included for many of the services offered in salons and day spas.

Part 5: nail care

Nail Care contains completely revised chapters that are also perfectly aligned with Milady Standard Nail Technology ,6e. These chapters include “Manicuring,” “Pedicuring,” “Nail Tips and Wraps,” “Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements,” and an expanded “UV Gels” chapter.

Part 6: business Skills

Business Skills opens with the updated chapter “Seeking Employment.” This chapter prepares students for licensure exams and job interviews, and it explains how to create a resume and a portfolio. What you will be expected to know and do as a newly licensed cosmetologist is described in “On the Job.” It offers tips on how to make the most of your first job—including the importance of learning all you can. The final chapter, “The Salon Business,” exposes students to the numerous types of salons and salon ownerships available to them.

Additional Features of This Edition

As part of this edition, many features are available to help you master key concepts and techniques.

F CUS ON

Throughout the text, short paragraphs in the outer column draw attention to various skills and concepts that will help you reach your goal. The Focus On pieces target sharpening technical and personal skills, ticket upgrading, client consultation, and building your client base. These topics are key to your success as a student and as a professional.

This feature provides interesting information that will enhance your understanding of the material in the text and call attention to a special point.

FYI’s offer important, interesting information related to the content. Often FYI boxes direct you to a Web site or other resource for further information.

The Activity boxes describe hands-on classroom exercises that will help you understand the concepts explained in the text.

These helpful tips draw attention to situations that might arise and provide quick ways of doing things. Look for these tips throughout the text.

Service Tips draw attention to situations that might arise while performing a service and provide quick ways of doing things. Look for these tips in the procedures.

Service Tip CAUTION

Some information is so critical for your safety and the safety of your clients that it deserves special attention. The text directs you to this information in the Caution boxes.

State Alert

This feature alerts you to check the laws in your region for procedures and practices that are regulated differently from state to state. It is important, while you are studying, to contact state boards and provincial regulatory agencies to learn what is allowed and not allowed. Your instructor will provide you with contact information.

The Web Resources provide you with Web addresses where you can find more information on a topic and references to additional sites for more information.

Regulato R y

Educational Chapter Formatting

Each chapter of Milady Standard Cosmetology includes specialized formatting and strategies for the presentation of material to enhance your experience while working with the chapter and to facilitate the learning process.

Learning Objectives

At the beginning of each chapter is a list of learning objectives that tell you what important information you will be expected to know after studying the chapter. Throughout the chapter you will see a special icon that indicates you have finished reading the material that corresponds to one of these Learning Objectives. LO1

Key Terms

The words you will need to know in a chapter are given at the beginning of the chapter, in a list of Key Terms. When the word is discussed for the first time within the chapter, it appears in boldface type. If the word is difficult to pronounce, a phonetic pronunciation appears after it in parentheses.

Procedures

All step-by-step procedures offer clear, easy-to-understand directions and multiple photographs for learning the techniques. At the beginning of each procedure, you will find a list of the needed implements and materials, along with any preparation that must be completed before the procedure begins. At the end of each procedure, you will find photographs showing the finished result.

In previous editions, the procedures interrupted the flow of the main content, often making it necessary for readers to flip through many pages before continuing their study. In order to avoid this interruption, all of the procedures have been moved to a special Procedures section at the end of each chapter.

For those students who may wish to review a procedure at the time it is mentioned in the main content, Milady has added Procedural Icons. These icons appear where each procedure is mentioned within the main content of the chapter, and they direct you to the page number where the entire procedure appears.

Review Questions

Each chapter ends with questions designed to test your understanding of the chapter’s information. Your instructor may ask you to write the answers to these questions as an assignment or to answer them orally in class. If you have trouble answering a chapter review question, go back to the chapter to review the material and then try again. The answers to the Review Questions are in your instructor’s Course Management Guide.

Chapter Glossary

All key terms and their definitions are included in the Chapter Glossary at the end of each chapter, as well as in the Glossary/Index at the end of the text.

Extensive Learning and Teaching Package

While Milady Standard Cosmetology is the center of the curriculum, students and educators have a wide range of supplements from which to choose. All supplements have been revised and updated to complement the new edition of the textbook.

Student Supplement S

• Contains chapter-by-chapter questions in multiple-choice format to help prepare for the written portion of licensure exams.

• Revised to meet the most stringent test-development guidelines.

• Questions are for study purposes only and are not the exact questions that will be seen on licensure exams.

• Full-color, spiral-bound guide

• Showcases additional advanced procedures for changing hair texture (10 examples) and hair color (15 examples) with step-by-step accuracy.

• Full-color, spiral-bound guide

• Showcases cuts and styles that build upon content in Milady Standard Cosmetology for both women (15 cuts) and men (10 cuts) with step-by-step accuracy.

S UPPLEMENT T ITLE

Student Supplement S

S UPPLEMENT D ESCRIPTION

• Helps with mastering the techniques, procedures, and product usage needed for licensure as covered in the textbook.

• Provides fill-in-the-blank, matching, multiple-choice, and labeling exercises that reinforce practical applications.

• Tests the knowledge of how information that is learned can be applied in real-life situations.

• Stories and scenarios closely reflect situations that are likely to arise when working in a salon.

• Helps to demonstrate how to use the information learned by calling on the concepts discussed in the classroom and applying them to real-life situations.

The study guide is designed to emphasize active, conceptual learning, and to consolidate understanding of the material in Milady Standard Cosmetology.

• Provides six easy-to-follow features for each chapter, presenting the key content in a different manner to help with overall comprehension.

• Chapter features: Essential Objectives, Essential Subjects, Essential Concepts, Essential Review, Essential Discoveries, Accomplishments, Rubrics incorporated throughout provide self-assessments to assist in overall learning.

• Attractive full-color design provides an engaging experience in order to learn the important theory and practical aspects necessary for licensure and professional success.

• Designed to reinforce classroom and textbook learning.

• Contains chapter-by-chapter exercises on theory subjects.

• Includes fill-in-the-blank, multiple-choice, matching, and labeling exercises, all coordinated with material from the main text.

• Final Review Examinations at the end of the workbook assist with test preparation.

Student Supplement S

• Interactive resource designed to reinforce classroom learning, stimulate the imagination, and aid in preparation for board exams.

• Includes:

• Over 100 video clips that demonstrate procedures and theoretical concepts

• Chapter quizzes that provide 10 questions at a time but draw from a quiz bank of more than 1,200 questions

• An ‘arcade’ with 4 different types of games

• An audio glossary that pronounces each term and provides the definition

• Content follows and enhances Milady Standard Cosmetology.

• Content-rich, web-based learning aid that presents information in a new and different way.

• 24x7 access

• Provides tools and content that allow for more effective management of time, progress checks, exam preparation, and organization of notes.

• Designed for integration of additional technology into programs that accommodate the ever-changing learning styles.

• Student Features include: Chapter Learning Objectives, Study Sheets, Online Chapter Quizzes, Flash Cards, Discussion Topics, Web Links, FAQs, Glossary, Video, Games

• Provides an alternative way to study for licensure exams, whether taken on a computer or on paper.

• Offers familiarity with a computerized test environment during licensure exam preparation.

• Features include:

• 24x7 availability and students have the flexibility to study from any computer

• Chapter tests, quizzes and comprehensive exams that draw from more than 1,200 multiple-choice questions

• All questions are available in both English and Spanish

• Immediate results with rationales to assist with knowledge acquisition

• Robust reports that help students determine areas of study they need to focus on www.miladyonline.cengage.com

Student Supplement S

Designed to be used in conjunction with Milady Standard Cosmetology textbook and the practical portion of a cosmetology program.

• Focuses on delivering the theory portions of the cosmetology curriculum in an online format.

• Extremely interactive which will engage all types of learners

• Features include:

• Interactive lectures with audio

• Video

• Interactive learning reinforcement activities including situational problems

• Games

• Automatically graded quizzes and tests

• Audio Flashcards with glossary terms and definitions

• Electronic version of Milady Standard Cosmetology for instant online access

• Requires an internet connection.

• Enables highlighting, note-taking, and bookmarking.

• Has search capabilities.

• Contains an audio glossary.

• Ability to print pages one at a time while connected to the internet

• An ‘on-the-go’ tool designed to help prepare for the written portion of licensure exams.

• Available for iPhone, iPod Touch, and iPad devices.

• Features include:

• “Question of the Day”

• Randomized multiple choice questions for each chapter

• Immediate feedback with rationales

• Progress reporting for all chapter tests

Educator Supplements

Milady proudly offers a full range of innovative resources created especially for cosmetology educators to make classroom preparation and presentation simple, effective and enjoyable.

S UPPLEMENT T ITLE

Milady Standard Cosmetology Course Management Guide Print Binder

Milady Standard Cosmetology Course Management Guide CD

Milady Standard Cosmetology DVD Series

Milady Standard Cosmetology Instructor Support Slides CD

Milady Standard Cosmetology Student CD School/Network Version

Milady Standard Cosmetology Interactive Games CD

Milady Standard Cosmetology Haircutting DVD Series

Milady Standard Cosmetology Haircutting Instructor Resource CD

Milady Standard Cosmetology Haircoloring and Chemical Texture Services DVD Series

Milady Standard Cosmetology Haircoloring and Chemical Texture Services Instructor Resource CD

Thank you for choosing Milady as your Total Learning Solutions Provider. For additional information on the above resources or to place an order please contact your Milady Sales Representative or visit us online at www.milady.cengage.com

Contributing Authors

Catherine Frangie

Catherine M. Frangie began her career in 1982 as a licensed cosmetologist, salon owner, and beauty school instructor. Since then, Catherine has held prominent positions in the professional beauty industry, including Marketing, Communications, and Education Vice President; Communications Director; Trade Magazine Editor/ Publisher; and Textbook Editor and Author.

Catherine has been a guest lecturer at conferences and trade shows, including the International Beauty Show in NYC. She has authored more than 125 featurelength magazine articles and several books on beauty trends, fashion, and the business of the professional salon. Catherine holds degrees in communications, and marketing.

In 2001, Catherine founded Frangie Consulting, LLC, a marketing, communications, and publishing firm which offers strategies for managing business objectives, creating high-performing teams, and successfully achieving goals. Her experiences and successes have given her a well-deserved reputation as an industry expert in marketing and branding, communications and education. Frangie Consulting earned seven ABBIE Awards—including two Gold ABBIEs—for marketing campaigns, new product launches, and outstanding professional educational programs.

Catherine has been involved with Milady for more than twenty years, and since 2004 has acted as the revision author/editor for its three core textbooks— Milady Standard Cosmetology, Milady Standard Nail Technology, and Milady Standard Esthetics Fundamentals.

Colleen Hennessey

Recognized nationally as a Master Haircolorist, Platform Artist, and Technical Educator, Colleen Hennessey brings many years of hands-on coloring experience to the industry. She spent eight years at the renowned Adam Broderick Salon and Spa as a Master Colorist and Director of Salon Education.

Colleen’s rare skills as an educator make her a soughtafter resource throughout the profession. For eight years she served as Senior Technical Editor of Haircolor and Design Magazine, where she wrote an editorial article entitled “The Haircolor Department.”

Beauty schools’ students also benefit from Colleen’s expert knowledge and teaching ability. Colleen is the subject matter expert chosen to write the Haircolor chapter for Milady Standard Cosmetology. In addition to her writing projects, she works as a School Manager representing the Procter & Gamble School Partnership Program to help schools keep abreast of all new product introductions and education.

An artist of many talents, Colleen is an established platform artist, performing throughout the United States and attracting crowds at mega trade shows, including Hair Color USA in Long Beach, International Beauty Show in New York City, Haircolor USA, Matrix Logics Tour, and the Midwest Show. Her easy color techniques are popular with stylists, as are her classes in effective client-communication skills, both of which have enabled her and the stylists she works with to build salon haircolor sales.

Photo courtesy of Cathy Frangie.
Photo courtesy of Colleen Hennessey.

Formally Clairol Professional’s exclusive color designer and Senior Manager of Clairol Professional’s Education Department, Colleen has brought techniques and color-correction advice direct to salon mailboxes through Clairol Professional’s Creative Connection, an educational membership program free to all licensed cosmetologists. Her color work has also been featured in Color & Style, Matrix News, Modern Salon, and Passion magazines, as well as Milady educational publications.

Wherever Colleen teaches—on platform, in salons, in textbooks, or in magazines—she communicates her love of haircolor by teaching others the precise, technical, artistic, and communication skills that have earned her the prestigious title of Master Colorist.

Dr. Mark Lees

Dr. Mark Lees is one of the country’s most noted skin care specialists and an award-winning speaker and product developer. He has been actively practicing clinical skin care for over twenty years at his multi-award winning CIDESCO accredited Florida salon, which has been awarded many honors by the readers of the Pensacola News-Journal, including Best Facial, Best Massage, and Best Pampering Place. His professional awards are numerous and include Esthetician of the Year from American Salon Magazine, the Les Nouvelles Esthétiques Crystal Award, the Dermascope Legends Award, the Rocco Bellino Award for outstanding education from the Chicago Cosmetology Association, and Best Educational Skin Care Classroom from the Long Beach International Beauty Expo. Dr. Lees has also been inducted into the National Cosmetology Association’s Hall of Renown.

Dr. Lees has been interviewed and quoted by NBC News, The Associated Press, The Discovery Channel, Glamour, Self, Teen, Shape, and many other publications.

Dr. Lees is cofounder of both the Skin Care Study Center in Los Angeles and the Institute of Advanced Clinical Esthetics in Seattle, special science-based advanced training programs for clinical estheticians.

Dr. Lees is former Chairman of EstheticsAmerica, the esthetics education division of the National Cosmetology Association (NCA), and has served as a CIDESCO International Examiner. He has also served on the national Board of Directors of the NCA.

Dr. Lees is former Chairman of the Board of the Esthetics Manufacturers and Distributors Alliance, is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, and is author of the popular book Skin Care: Beyond the Basics, now in its third edition, and the recently released The Skin Care Answer Book.

Dr. Lees holds a Ph.D. in Health Sciences, a Master of Science in Health, and a CIDESCO International Diploma. He is licensed to practice in both Florida and Washington State. His line of products for problem, sensitive, and sun-damaged skin is available at finer salons and clinics throughout the United States.

Photo courtesy of Mark Lees.

Frank Shipman

Frank Shipman has been making hair look great for more than two decades. As the owner of the nationally recognized Technicolor/TC Salon Spas, Frank is proud to have the privilege of working behind the chair. He also continues to be a beauty educator, writer, and speaker, bringing his own unique perspective to the industry.

In 2005, Frank received the prestigious Diamond Award from the magazine Day Spa to add to his many professional awards and honors.

Frank has a graduate degree in art from Boston University and has had his art exhibited nationally and internationally. Today he no longer creates precious objects but instead creates experiences. Frank is happy to be in a profession that allows him to state, “What I do is make people feel good.”

Alisha Rimando Botero

Alisha is recognized as one of the nail industry’s leading experts in training and education. In her first two years as an educator, Alisha taught classes in over 100 beauty schools and vo-techs across the US. As she expanded internationally, her focus turned to Asia, where she dedicated eight years to implementing artistic training programs and marketing strategies that resulted in the opening of over 100 nail salons and seven schools in Japan, growing that market to become the industry leader in nail art techniques.

In her fourteen years of experience, her work has been described as “groundbreaking.” She has been a platform artist and motivational speaker for more than 1,500 promotional and educational events and has competed in over 100 nail competitions around

the globe, winning a World Championship in 2005. She has been featured in multiple training videos and more than 150 beauty and trade publications and blog spots worldwide, such as Teen Vogue, Bridal Guide, Self, Fitness, and Seventeen Magazine, as well as numerous industry trade magazines like Nails, Nailpro, Scratch (UK), and Stylish Nail (Japan).

Through the years, Alisha has garnered the attention of large industry manufacturers, small business entrepreneurs, salon franchises, and nail and beauty associations. She has worked with Research and Development chemists to develop artificial nail enhancement products, nanotechnology skin care and cuticle treatments, polish collections, and natural nail treatments. One of her innovative product lines was awarded an industry ABBIE for best packaging, and several others have been recognized with readers’ choice awards for best products. Recently, Alisha has added reflexology to her growing list of competencies, ever striving to advance a more holistic approach to natural nail products and services. Alisha’s love and passion for her industry and family have led her to New York State, where she currently resides with her husband and son.

Bonnie Sanford

Bonnie Sanford is a beauty industry consultant, editor, and writer who specializes in marketing, communications, and public relations. She has worked in the professional beauty industry for over fourteen years, beginning as the Managing Editor of a national trade publication. Bonnie moved from the publishing field to the professional products industry, first as the Director of Communications and Creative Services for a leading international hair care company, then as a consultant to various hair care and skin care companies.

Bonnie was a contributing writer for the sixth edition of Milady Standard Nail Technology Student CD-ROM. She is honored to continue her work with Milady as a contributing author for Milady Standard Cosmetology

Photo courtesy of Alisha Rimando.
Photo courtesy of Frank Shipman.

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