Sidebars present additional information on food history, food in culture and the background of professional food service. These sidebars help you understand baking and pastry arts in a wider social context.
Convenien C e Produ C ts
artisan and yeast breads 171
The popularity of freshly baked bread has led to the introduction of many products designed to make fresh bread within the reach of all types of food service establishments. Bread mixes are dry blends of flours, salt and other ingredients. In the bakeshop, yeast and water are added, then the product is mixed and fermented as for scratch dough. Mixes allow the baker to prepare a variety of breads with few additional ingredients. Bread mixes may be made from all-natural ingredients, or they can include dough conditioners and additives to speed mixing and fermentation times and ease shaping.
How and when the first yeast-leavened breads came into being, no one knows. Perhaps some wild yeasts—the world is full of them—drifted into a dough as it awaited baking. Perhaps some ancient baker substituted fermented ale or beer for water one day. In any case, the resulting bread was different, lighter and more appetizing.
Based on models, images and writings found in excavated tombs, historians are fairly certain that the ancient Egyptians saved a bit of fermented dough from one day’s baking to add to the next day’s. This use of sourdough starter continues today, enjoying widespread popularity.
label to determine whether the mix or base meets the requirements of your bakeshop. With bread mixes and bases, careful measuring and temperature control of water is still a skill required to achieve the best results. Consult the manufacturer’s recommendations because mixing and fermentation times may be different for breads prepared from these products. Forming, proofing and baking, however, are the same as for scratch products.
Other cultures developed their own leavening methods. The Greeks and Romans prepared a wheat porridge with wine, which caused their doughs to ferment. The Gauls and Iberians added the foamy head from ale to their doughs. Both methods resulted in lighter breads that retained their fresh textures longer. Since ancient times, bread baking has been one of the first household tasks readily turned over to professionals. The first cooks to work outside homes during the Greek and Roman empires were bakers. The bakery trade flourished during the Middle Ages, with a wide variety of breads being produced. Yeast-leavened breads remained the exception, not the
shaped, proofed and baked. Nuts, seeds, herbs, spices, dried fruit or other flavoring ingredients can be kneaded into the dough to customize the product. From the same dough, a restaurant can offer dinner rolls, bread sticks, pizza and sandwich bread. Fresh refrigerated bread dough is also available. Frozen dough also comes portioned and formed into loaves and rolls. It requires panning and then careful thawing, usually under refrigeration.
Bread bases are dry blends of specialty ingredients that must be added to a scratch bread formula or a mix. Bases are added to a formula in a ratio of from 25 to 50 pounds of base for each 50 pounds of flour. Bread bases come in varieties such as multigrain, cracked wheat, oatmeal, potato and herb among countless others. A small bakery that would otherwise offer a scratch product might use a base to expand the variety of breads offered. Waste is avoided because large bags of unusual flours, grains or nuts that might not be used quickly are replaced by smaller quantities of bases. Check the ingredient
Powdered sourdough starters give breads the tangy flavor of sourdough without the effort of preparing and nurturing natural yeast. Made from a starter mixture that has been dried and pulverized, these prepared starters are simply added to the dry ingredients in a yeast dough formula. Commercial yeast leavens the dough while the starter lends its tangy flavor.
▼ Questions for Discussion
Frozen bread dough enables the restaurant operator or smaller bakeshop to offer freshly baked bread even when time, space or staff are limited. The dough comes already fermented. It needs only thawing, proofing and baking. Frozen bread dough may be purchased in bulk; 10- and 20-pound cases are common. Once thawed, the dough is portioned,
norm, until well into the 17th century, however. The first real collection of bread recipes is found in Nicolas Bonnefon’s Les Délices de la campagne, published in 1654. Bonnefon’s instructions, meant for those dissatisfied with commercial products of the time, included the use of beer yeast. By the end of the 17th century, published works included recipes for breads leavened with sourdough starter and the yeasts used in breweries. Louis Pasteur finally identified yeast as a living organism in 1857. Soon after, a process for distilling or manufacturing baker’s yeast was developed. By 1868, commercial baking yeast was available in stores.
Much of the guesswork in the proofing and baking process has been removed with parbaked bread. This is bread dough that has been formed and then baked only long enough to stop all yeast activity and solidify the starches without browning the crust. The parbaked bread is then flash-frozen. The restaurant operator simply pans and thaws the parbaked loaves or rolls, then finishes the baking. With parbaked bread it is essential to bake at the temperatures and for the time indicated by the manufacturer. Fully baked frozen breads, rolls, bread sticks and other products are the ultimate convenience, if not the ultimate in flavor. Inattentive reheating and cooling will de stroy the flavor, texture and appearance of these yeast breads, however.
Questions for Discussion appear at the end of each chapter to encourage you to integrate theory and technique into a broader understanding of the material. Web-based activities, as indicated by the WWW icon, encourage you to conduct research and seek answers from outside your primary classroom material.
it becomes dormant; above 138°F (59°C), it dies. See Table 7.1. Moisture activates the yeast cells, helping the yeast convert carbohydrates in the dough into food. Salt is used in bread making because it conditions gluten, making it stronger and more elastic. Salt also affects yeast fermentation. Because salt inhibits the growth of yeast, it helps control the dough’s rise. Too little salt and not only will the bread taste bland, it will rise too rapidly. Too much salt, however, and the yeast will be destroyed. By learning to control the amount of food for the yeast and the temperatures of fermentation, you can learn to control the texture and flavor of yeast-leavened products.
Types of Yeast
Baker’s yeast, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, is available in three forms: compressed, active dry and instant. (Do not be confused by a product called brewer’s yeast; it is a nutritional supplement with no leavening ability.)
❶ Explain the differences among active dry yeast, instant dry yeast and compressed yeast. Describe the correct procedures for working with these yeasts.
Compressed Yeast
❷ Explain the differences between a sponge and a sourdough starter. How is each of these items used?
Questions for Discussion
❸ Describe the straight dough mixing method and give two examples of products made with this procedure.
Compressed yeast is a mixture of yeast and starch with a moisture content of approximately 70 percent. Also referred to as fresh yeast, compressed yeast must be kept refrigerated. It should be creamy white and crumbly with a fresh, yeasty smell. Do not use
❹ List the 10 production stages for yeast breads. Which of these production stages would also apply to quick bread production? Explain your answer.
TABLE 7.1 t emperature for Yeast d evelopment
❺ Locate a professional organization for bread bakers. What services are available to its members?
TempeRaTu YeasT developmenT
❻ Locate two recipes each for typical French, German and Italian yeast breads and determine whether they are made with the straight dough, sponge or other pre-fermentation method.
34°f (2°C) Inactive
60°f–70°f (16°C–21°C) slow action
75°f–95°f (24°C–35°C) Best temperature for yeast activity
85°f–100°f (29°C–38°C) Best water temperature for hydrating instant yeast
100°f–110°f (38°C–43°C) Best water temperature for hydrating active dry yeast 138°f (59°C) Yeast dies
terms to Know leavening active dry yeast instant dry yeast starter dough temperature straight dough method sponge method sourdough method old dough method
kneading windowpane test pickup stage punching down rounding proofing scoring refresh lactic acid acetic acid poolisch biga
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Terms to know
A list of important terms used in each chapter is provided to help enhance your vocabulary and reinforce professionalism.
The Rise of Yeas T B R eads
Compressed Yeast
artisan and yeast breads 197
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C ONT e NT s
PREFACE xvii RECIPES xxi
PART ON e P RO fessi ONA lis M
AN d TH e B AK es HOP
CHAPT e R ON e
PROfessiONAlisM 2
CHAPT e R TWO
TOOls ANd eQuiPMeNT fOR THe BAKesHOP 22
CHAPT e R THR ee
PRiNCiPles Of BAKiNG 46
CHAPT e R f O u R
BAKesHOP iNGRedieNTs 62
CHAPT e R fi V e
Mise eN PlACe 118
PART TWO B R e A ds
CHAPT e R si X
QuiCK BReAds 136
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in both U.S. and metric measurements. In most instances we round off the metric equivalents to even, easily measured amounts.
Consider the U.S. and metric ingredient lists as separate recipes or formulas; do not measure some ingredients according to the metric amounts and other ingredients according to the U.S. amounts or the proportions will not be accurate and the intended result will not be achieved.
Baker’s percentages are included with many formulas, especially those for breads. Widely used in the professional bakeshop, baker’s percentages are very useful for increasing or decreasing yields as needed. We provide yields in either total batch weight or total yield and offer suggested portion sizes where appropriate.
We present detailed procedures for standard techniques, then generally do not repeat them in each recipe (for example, “apply egg wash” or “divide the dough”). A mise en place feature is included with recipes that appear in the front section of recipe chapters. Ingredients that require preparation before beginning to prepare the recipe are listed in the margin. You should consult this brief checklist after you read the recipe but before you begin to bake. No matter how detailed the written recipe, however, we must assume that you possess certain knowledge, skills and judgment.
Variations appear at the end of selected recipes. These variations enable you to see how a set of techniques or procedures can be used to prepare different dishes with only minor modifications. Variations also provide the advanced baker or pastry chef the opportunity to customize recipes for different applications. Headnotes that describe the cultural or historical background of a bread or pastry or the unique techniques used in its preparation appear with many of the recipes. This short text should enhance your understanding of a baking style or technique.
A registered dietitian analyzed each recipe using nutritional analysis software that incorporates data from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, research laboratories and food manufacturers. The nutrient information provided here should be used only as a reference, however. A margin of error of approximately 20 percent can be expected because of natural variations in ingredients. Preparation techniques and serving sizes may also significantly alter the values of many nutrients. In the nutritional analysis for a recipe that offers a choice of ingredients, the first-mentioned ingredient is the one used unless stated otherwise. Ingredients listed as “as needed” are omitted from the analysis. Corn oil and whole milk are used throughout for “vegetable oil” and “milk,” respectively. In cases of a range of ingredient quantities or numbers of servings, the average was used.
Throughout this book the MyPlate symbol, shown at left marks various recipes. This symbol identifies dishes that are particularly low in calories, fat, saturated fat or sodium; if appropriate, they may also be a good source of vitamins, protein, fiber or calcium.
Bakeshop products are often challenging to produce from start to finish in a single two- to threehour class session. Formulas that can be produced in a limited amount of time are printed in blue in the master recipe list on pages xxiii through xxx. If a dough, pastry or frozen dessert base needs to chill overnight before using, it will not be highlighted even if the preparation can be made quickly. Should components such as tart dough or puff pastry be available, additional formulas in this book may be prepared in a two- to three-hour class time. As in restaurant and bakery settings, however, many breads and pastries will need to be made in stages. For example, puff pastry can be produced one day, then refrigerated for baking and assembly during a subsequent day. This reinforces the component approach to pastry preparation, in which fillings, doughs, toppings, icings and such can be prepared in advance and assembled in various ways to complete desserts and pastries. Similarly, starters for yeast breads, doughs for Danish pastries and many dessert sauces can be prepared days in advance of final use.
Baking is both an art and a science. It is best learned through hands-on experience combined with study of the principles that underlie each technique. You should rely on the knowledge and skills of your instructor for guidance. Although some skills and an understanding of theory can be acquired through reading and study, no book can substitute for repeated, hands-on preparation and observations. We hope you enjoy On Baking!
ACkNOwlEDGMENTS
This book would not have been possible without the assistance and support of many people. Special thanks go to photographer Richard Embery for his talent, professionalism and commitment to quality; to Eddy Van Damme for his artistry with both recipes and photographs; and to Sharon Salomon, MS, RD, for help with preparation of Chapter 16, Healthful and Special-Needs Baking. The nutritional
R e C i P es
Pain de Campagne (french Country loaf) Online
Walnut Bread Online
Cuban-style Bread Online
Multigrain sourdough Bread
Nine-Grain Bread
Artisan Wheat Bread
German Mason’s Bread Online
starch Wash Online
Plié Breton (Brittany french Rye) Online
Rye Bread
Country Rye Bread with Currants
san francisco sourdough Bread
Pain au levain (Traditional french sourdough Bread)
Pain au levain with Nuts
Pain au levain with Garlic and Herbs
Pain au levain with Three Cheeses
Pain au levain with Walnuts and Cranberries
english Muffins
Grissini (dry italian-style Bread sticks)
Bread sticks
Garlic Bread sticks
Herbed Bread sticks
Plain Bagels
Bagels
Tomato Basil Bagels
Onion Walnut Bagels
Cinnamon Raisin Bagels
Ciabatta
focaccia (Roman flatbread)
swiss Chard and Ricotta Calzone
Pita Bread
Roasted Red Pepper and Almond Butter Tapenade
Turkish Pide Bread
Pretzels
Naan (indian flatbread)
Garlic Naan
fougasse with Olives
fougasse
CHAPT e R T e N
BROWNIES
Discovering Diverse Content Through Random Scribd Documents
night in these huts, the apex of the roof being the only outlet for the smoke, which the unfortunate natives accept as the only alternative from being stung to death by the puny tormentor. The only way to breathe in the huts is to lie down flat on the floor, where, owing to the draft caused by the low door, about one foot or fifteen inches of space is left free from the choking effect of the smoke.
There was not much time left us for either reflection or planning an escape. We quickly crept out of the hut one by one, and found that the information was not only correct, but the fires were already being kindled in a large circle, of which we were the centre. The Natives could be easily seen in large numbers on the outer side of the circle of fire, the chief standing amongst a crowd—luckily for us on the land side, leaving the path to the river bank comparatively free from Natives. The chief held in his hand the insignia of office—a long spear with a white shell on the end of it, which was quite descernible by the glare of the blazing grass. We held a consultation as to the best and most likely way to startle the savages, so as to make good our retreat to the river, cross it, and make for Balade as speedily as possible. Captain Case had in his hand a double-barrelled fowling piece, with one rifle barrel. It was suggested that he should fire the first shot in the air in order to draw the natives’ attention, and with the rifle barrel take aim at the shell on the chief’s spear.
On that shot depended the lives of fourteen men, and I am bound to say our friend’s calm and deliberate aim for that momentous shot denoted a true British tar’s firmness. A crack, followed by a terrific yell, told us that the scheme had succeeded. The natives in a body gathered round their chief to see the wonderful destruction of his talismanic shell, shattered into invisibility by Captain Case’s shot.
Before they could even notice our departure, we were making hasty tracks for the water, following in the wake of our native guides, whose marvellous instinct and thorough knowledge of the locality proved quite as useful as our friend’s skill at a target. They found not only the shortest path to the Giahot, but amongst the high reeds on the banks of that stream several canoes, which we annexed to convey our party across, and cut off communication with the wretches who had so treacherously attempted to give us a warmer reception than we had contemplated. When on the top of the range dividing the river from Balade, we saw the glare of our own pyre, and heard the chattering and yells of the fiends—caused, no doubt, by the discovery of the loss of their canoes, and doubtless
The position was critical, the danger imminent, the prospect anything but cheering.
Captain Oliver, like my friend Captain Case of the Athenian, was cast in the mould which has produced so many heroes in the British Navy—men in whom sterling worth only comes to light in moments of danger. The critical position of the brig demanded immediate action. Our crew consisted of a dozen Tanna natives, with only three Europeans on board besides the skipper, the mate, the cook, the steward, and myself. We were barely fifty yards from the beach, where hundreds of natives, already up to their waist in water, were throwing spears at any one whose head appeared above the taffrail.
Captain Oliver got us to bring up a hawser on to the deck. This was made fast round the foot of the main-mast; a freshly-ground axe was placed in my hands; orders given to get the jib and spanker ready for hoisting and sheeting home; the hawser made fast to the chain of one anchor, whilst the other was cast adrift. This hawser being amidships, the brig at once swung round; the spanker being sheeted tight gave the craft some headway; the jib being hoisted she got under way, and the order was given to chop the hawser.
Had my blow at this piece of hemp failed to sever it through, this book would never have been written. As it was, the poor old brig and its living freight had a very narrow shave. As we paid off slightly to get more way on her she grazed the coral reef on the lee side, but, however, got clear, and a few moments later we had the gratification to feel that we were in deep water, under close-reefed topsails, making headway towards Australia. We reached Sydney in a week, none the worse for having on two occasions disappointed the natives of New Caledonia, and deprived them of what might have been a three-course dinner. In both instances they would have had French, English, and native dishes—quite a recherche menu for a cannibal’s feast.
IV.
ASOUTHSEATRIP.”
ROLLING stone gathers no moss.” I am afraid I have proved the truth of the old adage. A fortnight in Sydney proved quite as much as I could stand. I always had a great desire to see Torres Straits and the islands on the northern side of it. There happened to be in Port Jackson a small French barque—Le Juste, from Havre—the captain being the owner of the vessel. I made an offer to him of a charter by the month for six months, giving him a share of the venture, my route being Torres Straits, New Guinea, Borneo, the Malay Archipelago, Mauritius, Bourbon, Madagascar, and back to Sydney. Being nearly as mad as I was, Captain Leneveu accepted my offer. We at once set to work, put on board a few brass swivel guns, some muskets and small arms, articles of South Sea Island trade; and, as was then the custom for a trip through the Straits, waited a few days until other ships bent on the same dangerous errand were ready to start.
On the 28th of June, everything being ready, we started northwards—the Scotia, one of Dunbar’s old East India ships— leading the van, followed by our barque, and two smaller craft bound for the Strait Settlements. Fine weather and smooth water brought us in eleven days to the Great Barrier Reef, which we passed safely, anchoring at night off Bird’s Island.
Captain Strickland, as commodore, entertained us gloriously on board the Scotia to commemorate our safe passage through the Barrier and bid us farewell—our course being north for the coast of New Guinea at daybreak next morning.
Navigating on the west side of the Barrier Reef is quite a pleasure trip as far as sea or weather are concerned; the only trouble, at least in the “fifties,” was the very imperfect hydrography of the locality, and the great caution sailors had to resort to in order to avoid the innumerable coral reefs and submarine dangers, which can only be avoided by a very careful watch from the foretop, where a man had constantly to be on the look-out.
Our first land was at Darnley Island, where we met the first Papus, some having a smattering of pigeon English. We engaged one of them to pilot us to the mouth of the Fly river, which we made out easily without ever having recourse to our sable friend, who seemed quite happy on board so long as he could keep within range of the galley and have the lion’s share of every meal going, whether cuddy or fore-castle. The fellow seemed to have the most capacious appetite, was an inveterate smoker, and certainly anything but a total abstainer. It is a marvellous thing how all natives take naturally and kindlyto smoking tobacco and drinking ardent spirits.
Anchoring close to Kiwai Island, we were at once boarded by scores of natives, and did a fair amount of trading for curios, shells, and arms, but nothing of any commercial value. Some of the clubs had specs of yellow metal inlaid in the handles; treatment with aqua fortisproved this metal to be gold. From inquiries made through the very imperfect interpretation of our pilot and my New Caledonian, Sokymy, we gathered that this gold was found a long way up the Fly river. All my entreaties with Captain Leneveu to sail up the river in one of the boats could not prevail upon him to concede the favour. As he very justly said, it would be unsafe both for him or I to take away one half of the crew to man the boat, leaving the other on board with only a few hands—there being always, and in spite of us, some scores of natives on our decks, besides hundreds hovering round in canoes. We had a few runs on shore, but did not dare to lose sight of the boats.
After a couple of days wasted at this anchorage, we dropped our Papu friend and steered west, coasting New Guinea as closely as the
cargo, bought a cargo of sugar, and once more steered for old Australia.
But alas! not with smooth weather and fair winds. The poor old barque, so buoyant and brisk when in yachting trim, smooth water, and under every inch of canvas spread to the trade winds—became a tub when filled with sugar to the very deck-level, in heavy seas, S.W. gales, and close-reefed topsails.
Shall I ever forget the fifty-four days cooped up in my cabin, water rushing from stem to stern day and night, not a stitch of dry clothing to change! What a welcome sight the Sydney Heads were, and how glad I was to set foot once more on terrafirma.
