slow core
larchivium
trends guide
c_y_v_a virtual adventure
fall winter 2020/2021
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INSPIRATION THE POWER OF CURIOSITIES AND CONCEPTS
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ART METAPHYSICAL
ARS
META
PHYSICAL
ART
BEYOND
NATURE
THE ART OF MAKING THINGS BEYOND NATURE AND ITS ENVIRONMENT. RESHAPE THE URBANITY THROUGHOUT ART. BEYOND ART. RECREATE THE IRREALITY OF NATURE BY SURREAL ELEMENTS WHICH ENHANCE A METHAPHYSICAL EXPERIENCE.
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concept An overview of contemporary aesthetics that reflects the moods of the new generation. Add the greek prefix “meta” (beyond) to the base “physical” (nature), and you get metaphysical — almost a synonym to the latin-based word “supernatural.” Both concern phenomena that are outside everyday real life.
Basic products are interpreted with different shades of meanings. The concept of materials and surfaces evolution is based on different combination, in relation with the character of humans. Artificial, repurposed,
modified, recreated, evolved. The innovation behind each human creation. “Metaphysics” dealt with more abstract questions about the reality beyond what we perceive with our senses. The ‘fil rouge’ is the meaning of each material’s content. We don’t change the appearance because we are working on the content and the context. We modify the aesthetic because the content is made by artificial components. The art of making things beyond nature and its environment, technological made. Reshape the urbanity throughout art beyond art. Because art is the illusion that became reality. Recreate the irreality of nature by surreal elements which enhance a metaphysical experience. Between minimalism and surrealism, looking to find the essential flair. Minimalism is the new classicism. Fantasy is the new eclecticism. Simplicity can be surreal.
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COLORS
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colors LARCHIVIUM Rich intense Elegant and sophisticated shades, such as cream, dusty rose, powder are combined with brown and severe blue hues, very deep and natural. A classic palette that provides creative expressions on the finished product. SLOW CORE Slow and dry Toned down and shaded. Proposals of military green expand towards soiled chrome grey tones. Cold smoked brown colors are combined with vintage american red, taupe and faded yellow. C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE Urban play tech Purple, rosy, fuchsia red, with urban blue tones enrich a high tech palette. Black and grey are coloured with reflections that turn them into blue-red shades. Greenish yellow and smoke grey blue color are unusual accents.
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#HASHTAG
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SHOE BRAND 04_Hashtag.indd 30
Black Dioniso Luca Berioli is the designer of the Company. All his work is characterized by his innate and detached sense of synthesis in transforming the beauty into poetic creations, from separated art to matter. Depicting different worlds and realities through games of fabrics and jewel details, while keeping a single identity, which makes Black Dioniso man or woman recognizable in every case. Luca merges emotions, music, poetry and painting, giving life to shoes loaded with pathos.
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From sculptures to collages, fashion to jewelry, his passion lies in the process of transforming an already existing object into something new. Philip Karto products are handcrafted in his Miami-based atelier by expert artisans. And every item is one-of-akind from the beginning. Vintage luxury handbags are completely taken apart, hand painted, and re-assembled with suede handles, exotic leather and silver 925 details. https://philipkarto.com
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ARTISTIC CUSTOMIZATION
Philip Karto
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ANALYSIS LOOK BACK TO LOOK FORWARD
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FROM ARSUTORIA ARCHIVE... ...TO PRESENT MOOD NOW ON CATWALKS
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FROM ARSUTORIA ARCHIVE...
MULTI CHECKS LARGE, SMALL, COLORFUL, BUT ALWAYS INTERTWINED AND OVERLAPPING FRAMEWORKS FROM THE MOST CLASSIC COLLEGIAL TO THE MOST IRREVERENT PUNK ONES. A LOT OF COLOR FOR A THOUSAND UNPREDICTABLE AND EXPERIMENTAL AVANT-GARDE DECLINATIONS.
1959
ARSUTORIA N.47
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PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
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...TO PRESENT MOOD
ANGEL CHEN
MINISTRY OF UPHOLSTERY
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HIGHLIGHTS
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HIGHLIGHTS
BIKER THE BIKER STYLE HAS ALWAYS BEEN A HYMN TO FREEDOM, NON-CONFORMISM AND REBELLION. ITS INGREDIENTS ARE PRECISE AND ALWAYS WELL DEFINED. THE ROCK AND BOLD ATTITUDE CAN ALSO BE CLASSIC IF REINTERPRETED IN A CONTEMPORARY KEY.
BOTTEGA VENETA
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BOTTEGA VENETA
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BALENCIAGA
• HIGHLIGHTS •
BALENCIAGA
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BOTTEGA VENETA
CHLOÉ
LEMAIRE
REDEMPTION
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RESEARCH MATERIALS THAT MATTER
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concept c_y_v_a virtual adventure The essence of the matter is the triumph of the new synthetic, artificial, recycled, technological material with a thick patina of vinyl, liquid paint, glaze. There will be more fabrics than leathers, but fabrics that do not resemble themselves, in the usual sense of the term. Textile compounds take their place in the Olympus of the most innovative materials, made with agglomerates of new consistencies and textures. The shoe will be special because its production process starts from the raw material, as does the bag. Next-gen materials with brand new grain are being created. They are gummy and slippery, dusty and dry, soft and in relief. Material effects lend themselves to double-sided volumes. Couplings and paddings offer new assemblies, with air inside, silicone and different foam compounds. Creasings and layerings are often optical effects. Metal fittings as well as soles come from upcycling compounds, as do small accessories. The laser will engrave everything, also using complex techniques that print and drill on extreme angles. The digital artisan uses special machinery also for processes, which become part of the final result.
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DESIGN SHANGHAI 08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 146
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SCHMID
SCHMID
THIN NETS
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DESIGN SHANGHAI
CARBON FIBER
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OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES EMPORIO ARMANI EMPORIO ARMANI
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SPACE AGE
CRAFTS OBJECTS - TOKYO
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SCHMID SCHMID
SCHMID
MILANO FASHION GRADUATE
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SHOE LASTS
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shoe lasts Women’s boots are slim and slender. There are many new décolleté proposals, with rounded squared tips and comfortable heels. Will the décolleté be the next woman’s sneaker? Winter slingbacks with an hybrid upper shoe are made with stretch materials. Stiletto models have breathtaking heights. For him and her, pointed models with a western boot construction take the place of the New Classic winter chic version. On the forefront, hybrid and classic moccasins also in the Chelsea and Tube boot versions. Great attention is paid to soles, which can influence the aesthetic impact of the winter shoe with their new volumes. The sneaker becomes increasingly structured like a ski boot. We are looking for new models and new volumes to redesign the future, for elegant shapes that have a contemporary fit. A trapezoid, rather than a box with ergonomic lines, low boot heels, and always with an easy walk line. The contrast between structured and sturdy soles surmounted by an upper stretch, always comfortable, is very important. The red line that divides technical models from city models is now non-existent. The shoe of the future could contain a dosed mix of Hybrid + Classic + Hiking + Basket Fit + Runner Toe. Starting from Outdoor structures (Hunting, Ski, Fisherman, Equestrian) inter-seasonal and unisex volumes evolve everyday. It is the world of boots, derby, Chelsea, biker, ski boot, hunting boot, equestrian tube booties, basketball retro sneakers. Large fittings, structured soles are always hyper light. Shoe tips dispose of a thickened wall. Basic lines are never aggressive. Lines are rounded and smoothed, to make volumes softer and more basic. A new design is being developed, called Soft Slow Core, which sees its extension in neutral basic footwear models. Soft uppers, masks, tassels and laces redesign the winter moccasin, a model that will restore its dominance over the sneaker.
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trends guide The Arsutoria magazine was founded in 1947 specifically for footwear manufacturers. Since its origin, the magazine has been produced inside the publishing offices of the International Technical Institute for the Footwear Industry to underline the fact that this publishing experience is rooted in the desire to offer footwear professional contents that are both creative and highly technical - i.e. never disconnected from the reality of the Italian manufacturing industry. The first issues of the magazine - which are still available for viewing at the Milan headquarters presented footwear ideas - concepts and designs. Our aim is to recapture this proactive spirit. Over the years the Arsutoria magazine has become the reference point for learning about footwear collections - materials and components. The possibility to travel around the world and the availability of digital information in real time has allowed us to be a strategic observatory of the most important events and trends in the international fashion world. The rational observation of these trends allows us to offer expert opinions on what was successful in international markets during current and past seasons - but also to formulate proposals and incentives to help operators work on their upcoming collections.
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MAGAZINES
ARSUTORIA arsutoriamagazine.com
ARPEL arpelmagazine.com
AFMAG af-magazine.com
FOTO SHOE 30 fotoshoemagazine.com
BAMBINO arstrends.com/Kids
fotoshoemagazine.com
ARSUTORIA TANNERY tannerymagazine.com
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BOOKS
ARSUTORIA ONLY WOMAN / ONLY MAN One issue published for S/S in November and one for A/W in May
FOOTWEAR DICTIONARY
ON LINE ARSTRENDS
ONLINE SHOE AND BAG DATABASE A huge database of photos of shoes, bags and materials, divided by style, season, events and much more. Hundreds of new pictures uploaded every week. Get the last trend information from international fairs, catwalks and retail windows. Get inspired by original prototypes. Register your free trial at www.arstrends.com
ARSUTORIA/ARPEL HISTORICAL ARCHIVE LOOK INTO THE PAST TO CREATE THE FUTURE NOW AVAILABLE ONLINE CONSULTATION! For computer, tablet, and mobile (iOS & Android) Library consultation available in Milan Magazine re-printing available on demand
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TRENDS
ARSUTORIA TRENDS GUIDE 2 ISSUES
An exclusive focus on shoes and bags to offer unique insights and ideas. A unique research on worldwide lifestyle, deeply analyzed into several aspects: keywords, colours, volumes, materials, moodboards, analysis, historical archive references. Published in November for SS and in April for AW.
DOWNLOAD MATERIALS PICTURES
All the pictures of the materials presented in these books are available for download from arstrends.com, our online portal.
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Contact trends@edizioniaf.com to enable your account for free
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ORDER FORM
ISSUES
ITALY*
EUROPE USA CANADA
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ARSUTORIA TRENDS GUIDE ** - book
concept - colors - materials for shoes & bags
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O
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shoes collection - for designers & manufacturers
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10
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TRADE
FOTO SHOE 30 - magazine
shoe collections - for retailers BAMBINO - magazine + web
magazine: kids shoes
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web: kids shoes + materials
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fur and leather garments AFMAG - magazine
fashion accessories www.arstrends.com** - web
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photos: shoes + materials photos: bags + materials photos: shoes + bags + materials HISTORICAL ARCHIVE
REPORT
ARSUTORIA ONLY WOMAN / ONLY MAN** - book
man shoes collections woman shoes collections
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safety & industrial shoes
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shoes
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**Prices are subject to VAT: only for Italy and private UE clients
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70 YEARS OF EXCELLENCE
UNIQUENESS
INDUSTRY RELATIONS
This year we are proud to celebrate 70 years of training the experts in the footwear industry
We are the only school based in a fashion capital with an internal factory for shoe and bag manufacturing
Customized in-house training for prestigious brands
REPUTATION
DIVERSITY
We are the reference for the footwear industry for both design and engineering training
Over 50 nationalities, over 75% of the student’s population is international, all courses are offered in English
ACCOMMODATION
We have apartments in the same building of the school available for students’ rental
SHOE COURSES IN ITALY One-year shoe intensive course INTAKES: JANUARY, APRIL, SEPTEMBER
Shoe pattern making and prototyping course DURATION: 12 WEEKS • INTAKES: JANUARY, APRIL, SEPTEMBER
Sneaker design, pattern making and prototyping course DURATION: 4 WEEKS • INTAKES: APRIL, JULY, NOVEMBER
Shoe design course
DURATION: 4 WEEKS • INTAKES: APRIL, JULY, NOVEMBER
Shoe 3D digital design course
DURATION: 4 WEEKS • INTAKES: JANUARY, MAY
Shoe making: sneaker, sandal, pump, laced-up DURATION: 4 WEEKS • INTAKES: MAY, SEPTEMBER
Startup your own shoe brand
DURATION: 3 DAYS • INTAKES: MAY, JULY, DECEMBER
Corso sabato mattina per lavoratori
DURATA: 9 MESI • PROSSIMA SESSIONE: NOVEMBRE 2018
NEW
SHOES + BAGS COURSE
One - year intensive course INTAKES: JANUARY, AUGUST
BAG COURSES IN ITALY Bag semester
INTAKES: MARCH, SEPTEMBER
Bag pattern making and prototyping course DURATION: 10 WEEKS • INTAKES: MARCH, SEPTEMBER
Bag design course
DURATION: 4 WEEKS • INTAKES: JUNE, NOVEMBER
Bag making: tote, clutch, backpack DURATION: 3 WEEKS • INTAKES: JULY, DECEMBER
Boston
Los Angeles
FOCUS ON
OUTDOOR/PERFORMANCE DURATION
1 WEEK CLASSES IN
FEBRUARY / SEPTEMBER
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New York City
FOCUS ON
FOCUS ON
CASUAL/DRESSY
CASUAL/DRESSY
DURATION
DURATION
1 WEEK
1 WEEK
CLASSES IN
CLASSES IN
MARCH
JULY
WORKSHOPS IN THE US
Since 2009, we have delivered workshops in the US, in Boston with a focus on outdoor/performance shoes (in collaboration with TwoTen) and since 2011 in NYC (in collaboration with FFANY) with a focus on casual/ dressy footwear. In less than a decade we have trained nearly 800 professionals from leading US companies. In 2018 we have launched a class in LA to better serve the West Coast footwear companies
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design. engineer. make.
arsutoriaschool.com The world leading school for shoes and bags professionals
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trends guide
International Fashion Footwear Magazine founded in 1947
editorial director Matteo Pasca coordinamento redazione Enrico Martinelli arsutoria research team Orietta Pelizzari Georgia Turri Mariacristina Rossi Carlo Sorrenti
marketing & sales Mariella Catalano Mariel Cuba Andrea Zampieri trends@edizioniaf.com
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We would like to thank for the collaboration:
BLUE ITALY GROUP - special applications on fabric, leather and plastics CARBIPEL - tanning of hair-on hides and skins CDC - ornamental chains CONCERIA NUVOLARI - leather for shoes and bags CORONET - synthetic leather CORPLAST - polyurethane, rubber and thermoplastic soles DAVOS - rubber sheets and soles manufacturing DIMAR CONCERIA - embossed leather FIMMA - SINCRO - accessories for leather goods GAMAR ITALIA - shoes accessories IFABA FORMIFICIO - lasts IMPERIALI ATTILIO TESSITURA - textiles for shoes & bags IPR - polyurethane, TR, PVC and rubber soles KENDA FARBEN - colors for leather finishing LANXESS - chemicals for leather LANZI NASTRIFICIO - ribbons MORO MINUTERIE - shoes & bags accessories M.P.G. INDUSTRIA CONCIARIA - vegetable-tanned leather NASTROTEX-CUFRA - elastic ribbons
www.blueitaly.org www.carbipel.com www.cdcsrl.net www.concerianuvolari.com www.coronetspa.it www.corplast.it www.davos.it www.dimar.com www.sincro-italy.com www.gamaritalia.eu www.ifaba.it www.attilioimperiali.it www.iprspa.com www.kendafarben.com www.lanxess.com www.lanzinastrificio.it www.moromin.it www.mpg.it www.nastrotex-cufra.it
OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES - high-tech fabrics and microfibers
www.omnipel.com
PELLAMI DUE C - leather & lining for shoes
www.duecspa.com
RAMPONI - strass, studs and laser-cuts
www.ramponisas.net
RIFRA NASTRI - ribbons
www.rifranastri.it
SANTORI PELLAMI - leather for shoes and bags
www.santori.com
SCHMID - top-end artisanal fabrics for shoes and bags TA.GO - laminated and embossed leathers TECNO MINUTERIE - shoes & bags accessories TECNOCHIMICA - chemicals for leather
www.schmid.it www.ta-go.it www.tecnominuterie.com www.tecnochimica.eu
TFL - chemicals for leather
www.tfl.com
TRE BI GUARDOLIFICIO - welts for shoes
www.tre-bi.it
VICENZA PELLI - CONCERIA SAN BIAGIO - leathers and cavallino hair for shoes & bags
www.vicenzapelli.com
trends guide
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