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Arsutoria Only Woman AW 20-21

Page 1

autumn/winter 2020-21


SPORTSWEAR IN BLACK AND WHITE

OBAS

RAMARIM

LUCK COMPANY

KEYS

MAGO

PINK SHOES

Very black, very white, but above all very white/black tones characterise sneakers for the coming winter, playing around with contrasts, often emphasised by the use of different materials, while outsoles are boxed or with a chunky construction. Molto nero, molto bianco ma soprattutto molto bianco/nero a caratterizzare le sneaker del prossimo inverno, che giocano così sui contrasti, spesso enfatizzati dall’uso di materiali diversi, mentre i fondi sono a cassetta oppure più costruiti tipo chunky.

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BURBERRY


FIGHT GIRL

LE MAK

CIRO ROVETTI

GLOBAL FOOTWEAR

LIWEI

LAURA BIAGIOTTI

RUILIFOOTWEAR

Combat boots and ankle boots with a strong and distinctive look, dominated by black with a few exceptions made for white or shocking colours, and above all grip-fast soles, and metallic details like studs, chains, buckles, and zips, for facing the winter with the right grit. Anfibi e stivaletti dal look forte e deciso, dominati dal nero con qualche eccezione di bianco o colori shock e soprattutto con suole a carrarmato e dettagli metallici come borchiette, catene, fibbie e cerniere, per affrontare l’inverno con la giusta grinta.

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BALMAIN


CLASSIC CHIC

DAKOTA NORDESTE

STEPHANIE

CAPODARTE

YH DESIGN

REGARDE LE CIEL

COMART

A classic style that is also extremely feminine at the same time, choosing leather as the preferred material, while favouring sinuous silhouettes matched with heels that lengthen the legs and warm all-purpose colours, starting from the entire range of browns. Uno stile classico ma al contempo molto femminile, che sceglie la pelle come materiale elettivo e predilige le silhoette sinuose abbinate a tacchi che slanciano la figura e a colorazioni calde e passe partout, a cominciare da tutta la gamma dei marroni.

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BRUNELLO CUCINELLI


MOUNTAIN MOOD

MAMIR

KENDALL+ KYLIE

MODA SCHUH

BABOOS

PERA DONNA

OLIP ITALIA

For the coming winter we once again find the Mountain mood with its distinctive traits – the metallic hook fastening, straps, and grip-fast sole – embellished in its city look by premium leathers, new colours and sophisticated details like fur inserts. Anche nel prossimo inverno troviamo il mood Mountain con i suoi tratti riconoscibili - la chiusura a gancetti metallici e cordini e la suola a carrarmato – impreziosito nella sua veste cittadina da pellami di pregio, nuovi colori e dettagli ricercati come gli inserti in pelliccia.

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MONCLER Z 1952


MAXIMALIST STYLE

RENR

L4K3

WALK THIS WAY

ACORN COMPANY

MANU

CHENGDU AMIL

Elaborate and maximalist sneakers, and not just in terms of outsoles: materials are blended and overlap one another also on the upper, as do colours and patterns, giving life to striking solutions that ‘complete’ the look. Sneaker elaborate e massimaliste, e non solo dal punto di vista della suola: i materiali si mescolano e si sovrappongono anche sulla tomaia, così come i colori e le fantasie, dando vita a soluzioni accattivanti e che ‘completano’ il look.

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ANIYEBY


CONTEMPORARY FOLK

CALZADOS DIMAR

ANTICA CALZOLERIA CAMPANA

REFRESH

ZEEKO

NEW KOGI

CARASO ZAPATOS

Folk and above all western influences for the coming winter, revamped in an urban and fashion key with softer silhouettes and premium materials like nappa, crocodile, suede, and full-grain leather. Influenze folk e soprattutto western per la donna del prossimo inverno, rivisitate in chiave cittadina e fashion con silhouette piĂš dolci e materiali di pregio come nappe, cocco, camosci e pellami pieno fiore.

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ANIYEBY


THE DESIRE FOR FEMININITY

PYRAMIDIS BY GVD

CECCONELLO

KAPSONS WORLDWIDE

TABITA

XTI

COMFORTFLEX

The most feminine fashion enhances the role of fine leathers such as nappa and reptiles and distinctive details such as a buckle or a bracelet insert, but also ventures with bold colors, metallic prints and flashes. La moda piĂš femminile valorizza il ruolo dei pellami pregiati come nappa e rettili e dei dettagli distintivi come una fibbia o un inserto a bracciale, ma azzarda anche con colori decisi, stampe e lampi metallizzati.

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AMEN


NEW UTILITY BOOTS

INUOVO

S. OLIVER

N55

EMMA & POTTER

SHERLOCK SOON

U.S. POLO ASSN.

The utility world, embodied by iconic laceup work boots with a high sole in lugged rubber and toe-cap, are reread in an urban key with practical zips and Velcro that flanks laces, premium leathers like reptile skin and vivid and trendy colours that go hand-in-hand with traditional total black. Il mondo utility, incarnato dagli iconici scarponcini da lavoro allacciati con suola alta in gomma dentellata e puntale, sono riletti in chiave urban con pratiche zip e velcri che affiancano i lacci, pellami pregiati come i rettili e colori vivaci e trendy che vanno a braccetto con il tradizionale total black.

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YS

59


BOOTS POWER

GIOVANNI CONTI

BALDININI

VANILLA MOON

GADEA

DYAN

DIVALESI

The commandment for the season is to shine a light on the cornerstones of elegance and make them contemporary. New luxury passes through a slight elegance that plays on the return of classic ankle boots, but reinterpreted in a new way. It focuses on the idea of a woman with her thousand daily commitments, who needs chic bold and versatile models, perhaps featuring coloured details or unusual buckles. Il diktat di stagione è ripescare i capisaldi dell’eleganza per renderli contemporanei. Il nuovo lusso passa da un’eleganza discreta che gioca sul recupero di modelli di stivaletti classici, ma rivisti con una chiave nuova, che mette al centro della scena un’idea di donna, presa dai mille impegni quotidiani, che necessita di modelli chic, grintosi e versatili, che magari puntino su dettagli colorati o inedite fibbie.

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DOROTHEE SCHUMACHER


ALT COUNTRY

SONORA

ACRI SHOES BY F.LLI ACRI

JOY WENDEL

EMANUELE CRASTO

NICHE LABORATORIO ARTIGIANO

PIKOLINOS

Rock, folk, western: Texan boots, with lines reminiscent of the old 80s “Camperos” with round or square toe, rigid sole and recessed heel, can be much more versatile than you think, going well with very different looks and outfits. The brand-new variant of colours create a new and very contemporary streetstyle look. Rock, folk, western: gli stivaletti texani, dalle linee che ricordano i vecchi “Camperos” anni ‘80, con punta tonda o squadrata, suola rigida e tacco rientrante, possono rivelarsi molto più versatili di quanto si possa immaginare, prestandosi a look ed outfit molto diversi tra loro. Inediti i modelli coloratissimi per un neo look street style molto contemporaneo.

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KHAITE


FOREVER BLUE

MARCOS NALINI

NR RAPISARDI

VLADI'

ERDO

AEROBICS

MARCOS NALINI

And here is the Classic Blue (2020 Pantone colour) directly from the fashion shows to the footwear trends. The shade that induces relaxation and introspection infuses the accessories with enthusiasm, playing with models that accentuate the chromatic depth, and whose details bring out the nuance. Il Classic Blue (colore Pantone 2020) dalle sfilate direttamente alle tendenze calzature. La tonalitĂ che infonde relax e introspezione tinge con entusiasmo gli accessori, giocando con modelli che ne accentuano la profonditĂ cromatica e con dettagli che fanno risaltare la nuance.

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RICK OWENS


COUP DE FOUDRE

ALBERTO ZAGO

MARINO FABIANI

FORMENTINI

NEBULONI

GIANNI MARRA

WERNER

The real focal points of the outfit. A perfect combination to bring out the personality of the wearer and create a beautiful look for all seasons. They give a touch of elegance or a dash of boldness and emphasise the style. The high-heeled ankle boots play with metallic touches and geometric patterns, from the most elegant to the most rock versions. Veri e propri focus dell’outfit. Un connubio perfetto per far risaltare la personalità e soddisfare le esigenze di look per tutte le stagioni. Donano un tocco di eleganza o una sferzata di grinta e sottolineano con decisione il proprio stile. Gli stivaletti a tacco alto giocano con tocchi metallizzati e pattern geometrici, da quelli più eleganti a quelli più rock.

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SAINT_LAURENT


GLAM GIRLS

ALBANO

WERNER

The contemporary must-have to wear day and night: knee-length (or even higher...) boots will be able to interpret your style with originality and sensuality. Bold accessories made with refined materials and extremely soft leather that create a perfect alchemy of elegance and determination. Il must contemporaneo da indossare giorno e sera: gli stivali al ginocchio (o ancora più su...) sapranno interpretare con originalità e sensualità il tuo stile. Accessori di carattere realizzati con materiali ricercati e morbidissima pelle che creano un’ alchimia perfetta di eleganza e grinta.

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ELISA LANCI


47

ERIKA CAVALLINI


SHOWING OUT

EDDY DANIELE

LISKA 12

CECCONELLO

LES JEUX DU MARQUIS

A BY ANABELLE

LES JEUX DU MARQUIS

They are a timeless classic of elegance: high-heeled pump shoes and sandals are suitable for all those times when we want to add that extra touch, to be combined with office suits or evening dresses. Tapered design, perfect silhouette and high quality materials are the most effective weapons of seduction. Rappresentano un classico intramontabile dell’eleganza: le décolleté e i sandali a tacco alto sono adatti a tutte le occasioni in cui desideriamo aggiungere quel tocco in più, da abbinare al tailleur in ufficio o ad abiti per eventi e serate. Design affusolato, silhouette perfetta e qualità dei materiali sono le armi di seduzione più efficaci.

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CUSHNIE ET OCHS


STYLISH COMFORT

HEGO'S

LAB

PAS DE ROUGE

AREZZO

SOFIA BALDI

PITILLOS

Covered in rhinestones, studs or lined in soft fur, moccasins and lace-ups will be the perfect accessory to accompany you in the cold season, while ensuring comfort and a characteristic look. A boyish touch is present too, which is perfect in these times of gender-fluid outfits. Ricoperti di cristalli, borchiette o foderati in morbida pelliccia, mocassini e stringate saranno l’accessorio perfetto per accompagnarti nella stagione fredda, senza rinunciare a comodità e look distintivo. Non manca un tocco boyish, perfetto in questi tempi di outfit gender fluid.

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HERMÈS


WARM CHOICES

GERRY WEBER SHOES

DINO BIGIONI

COLMAR

GIANFRANCO LATTANZI

STM

SARA LOPEZ

Climb the heights of fashion. In fact, hiking-styled boots are clearly divided into two basic types: on the one hand, furry and super soft boots, such as sheepskin boots or boots with fur trimming, on the other hand, more technical boots with lug soles, that combine high-altitude touch with urban and underground attitudes. And from fashion catwalks come the best lessons of matching, from chunky wool socks to knitted dresses or midi skirts. Scalare le vette dello stile. Di fatto gli stivali di ispirazione hiking si dividono nettamente in due tipologie fondamentali: da un lato quelli furry e super soffici come i boot di montone o con bordi in pelliccia, all’altro lato invece abbiamo le varianti più tecniche dai fondi carroarmato, che coniugano il tocco “alta quota” ad attitude urbane e molto underground. E dalle passerelle arrivano le migliori lezioni di abbinamento, dai calzettoni in lana chunky agli abiti in maglia o gonne longuette. 60


61

ALICE+OLIVIA


SNEAKERS FOR ALL SEASONS

OVER TEAK

LA STRADA

7AM

TAMARIS

GAIMO

SARA LOPEZ

Retro-inspired athletic shoes stand out in the vast ocean of sneakers that swarm the contemporary fashion scene. The streetstyle fashion trends for autumn-winter speak clearly: whether ankle-high sneakers or chunky models or flat skater shoes, the models look back in time to the 70s-80s and to the fashion of the 90s to find the freshest inspiration. Nel vasto oceano di proposte sneaker che popolano lo scenario moda contemporaneo, spiccano le ginniche di ispirazione retro. Le tendenze street style della moda autunno-inverno parlano chiaro: che si tratti di sneaker alte alla caviglia oppure di modelli chunky o di scarpe basse da skater, i modelli guardano indietro nel tempo, agli anni 70-80 e alla moda anni 90, per trovare l’ispirazione piÚ fashion.

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COLOVOS


MAGAZINES ARSUTORIA

10 Issues Arsutoria offers the most complete information for footwear manufacturers and designers: collections, materials and technology.

arsutoriamagazine.com

ARPEL

4 Issues Arpel magazine is exclusively dedicated to bags & leathergoods: news & interviews, scouting, collections, materials and technology.

arpelmagazine.com

AFMAG

4+2 Issues AFmag – Accessory Fashion is a new magazine come to life to interpret the changes in the world of fashion accessories.

af-magazine.com

FOTO SHOE 30

6 Issues An overview on medium-end footwear market: news, articles and pictures. Foto Shoe 30 is a must have for wholesalers and mass retailers.

fotoshoemagazine.com

BAMBINO

2 Issues Focused on children and kids footwear, Bambino inlcudes also the access to arstrends.com/Kids, the online database of shoes.

fotoshoemagazine.com

ARSTANNERY

6 Issues Tannery magazine is focused on chemicals and technology for leather.

tannerymagazine.com

Included in your subscription:

Online Reading Read the magazines of your subscriptions one week in advance. Use your account in edizioniaf.com


BOOKS ARSUTORIA ONLY WOMAN / ONLY MAN / ONLY SNEAKERS Hard cover book of over 200 pages of shoes presented for each season on fairs and catwalks. One issue published for S/S in November and one for A/W in May

FOOTWEAR DICTIONARY - 500 illustrated pages - 1000 terms in five different languages (IT-EN-ES-DE-FR) - Only Printed edition

ON LINE ARSTRENDS

ONLINE SHOE AND BAG DATABASE A huge database of photos of shoes, bags and materials, divided by style, season, events and much more. Hundreds of new pictures uploaded every week. Get the last trend information from international fairs, catwalks, retail windows and e-commerce. Get inspired by original prototypes. Register your free trial at www.arstrends.com

ARSUTORIA/ARPEL HISTORICAL ARCHIVE LOOK INTO THE PAST TO CREATE THE FUTURE NOW AVAILABLE ONLINE CONSULTATION! For computer, tablet, and mobile (iOS & Android) Library consultation available in Milan Magazine re-printing available on demand

www.edizioniaf.com subscriptions@edizioniaf.com ph. +39 02 3191 2331 fax +39 02 3361 1619


TRENDS

ARSUTORIA TRENDS GUIDE 2 ISSUES

An exclusive focus on shoes and bags to offer unique insights and ideas. A unique research on worldwide lifestyle, deeply analyzed into several aspects: keywords, colors, volumes, materials, moodboards, catwalk analysis. Published in November for SS and in April for AW.

CONTENTS ONLINE www.edizioniaf.com

Concept and colors #hashtag Catwalk analysis Shapes analysis Materials


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magazine: kids shoes

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fashion accessories www.arstrends.com** - web

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photos: shoes + materials photos: bags + materials photos: shoes + bags + materials

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REPORT

ARSUTORIA ONLY WOMAN / ONLY MAN / ONLY SNEAKERS** - book

man shoes collections woman shoes collections sneakers shoes collections

1 season

1

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2

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SHOE COURSES IN ITALY Shoe 1-year Diploma

INTAKES: JANUARY, SEPTEMBER

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The Sneaker: design, pattern making and prototyping

DURATION: 4 WEEKS • INTAKES: APRIL, JULY, NOVEMBER

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DURATION: 4 WEEKS • INTAKES: MARCH, JUNE, OCTOBER

Shoe making, men’s and women’s: pump, sandal, oxford, moccasin DURATION: 4 WEEKS • INTAKES: FEBRUARY, MAY, SEPTEMBER

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DURATA: 9 MESI • PROSSIMA SESSIONE: NOVEMBRE 2020

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WORKSHOPS IN THE US Since 2009, we have delivered workshops in the US, in Boston with a focus on outdoor/ performance shoes (in collaboration with TwoTen) and since 2011 in NYC (in collaboration with FFANY) with a focus on casual/dressy footwear. In less than a decade we have trained over 800 professionals from leading US companies. In 2018 we have launched a class in LA to better serve the West Coast footwear companies


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