autumn/winter 2019-20
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autumn/winter 2019/20 MAN COLLECTIONS
The great expressive freedom in men’s footwear is confirmed. From the exquisite craftsmanship of the classic proposals to more casual shoes for the city and free time, in which triumph thickened bottoms and “hiking” details stolen from the more sporty models. Sneakermania shows no signs of waning, even in the colourful 90’s versions. In the middle, there is the great success of boots above the ankle... again in this case from the classic to the hiking model. The theme of reinventing can be savoured in every winter nuance. What is sought after is the extra detail that can rewrite the history of tradition. So, two are the directions of the coolest male footwear of the moment: on the one hand the new classics, refined, made with precious materials, also seen in the “full winter” version with thicker soles, trekking details and paddings, on the other the trendiest chunky sneakers, sporting a 90’s mood.
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Si conferma la grande libertà espressiva nella calzatura da uomo. Tra proposte classiche dall’artigianalità eccelsa a modelli più disinvolti per la città e il tempo libero, nei quali trionfano i fondi spessorati e i dettagli “hiking” rubati ai modelli più sportivi. La sneakermania non accenna a scemare, anche in versione coloratissima anni ’90. Nel mezzo il grande successo degli stivaletti sopra la caviglia… anche in questo caso dal classico all’hiking. Il tema del reinventare si assapora in ogni sfumatura invernale. Quello che si cerca è il dettaglio in più che possa riscrivere la storia della tradizione. Due le direzioni della calzatura maschile più cool del momento, quindi: da un lato i nuovi classici, raffinati, dai materiali pregiati, visti anche in versione “pieno inverno” con fondi spessorati, dettagli trekking e imbottiture, dall’altro il dilagare delle sneaker modaiole dalle forme chunky e dal mood anni ’90.
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URBAN TREKKING follow the link at arsutoriamagazine.com/fashion-service/435-urbtre
SANTONI
VISVIM
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
GUCCI
LORO PIANA
VALENTINO
Weatherproof and fashionable, men’s ankle boots and biker boots are ready to face the coldest times. They feature thick bottoms and ad hoc padding (also in fur), as well as new “mountaineer” details such as technical eyelets and contrasting laces. Winter has never been so hot. A prova di intemperie e di gusto sottilmente modaiolo, polacchini e anfibi da uomo sono pronti ad affrontare il freddo. Sfoggiano fondi spessorati e imbottiture ad hoc (anche in pelliccia), nonchè inediti dettagli “mountaineer” come occhielli tecnici e lacci a contrasto. L’inverno non è mai stato così hot.
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BELSTAFF
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NEW DANDY follow the link at arsutoriamagazine.com/fashion-service/435-newdan
TOM FORD
GUCCI
FENDI
BALENCIAGA
DRIES VAN NOTEN
SAINT LAURENT
At least one pair of highly sophisticated shoes with an eccentric twist are essential in the wardrobe of the contemporary man. Precious leathers, velvet, all-over prints, lively nuances: these are the stylistic features that stand out in every situation. Almeno un paio di calzature ultra raffinate e dal tocco eccentrico sono fondamentali nell’armadio dell’uomo contemporaneo. Pellami pregiatissimi, velluto, “all over print”, sfumature frizzanti: questi gli stilemi di calzature che si fanno notare in ogni situazione.
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BOTTEGA VENETA
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A LOVE LETTER TO CLASSIC follow the link at arsutoriamagazine.com/fashion-service/435-lovlet
TOD'S
GUCCI
PRADA
VALENTINO
BRUNO CUCINELLI
GIVENCHY
The new classic men’s shoes are impeccable and of the highest quality. Evergreen modelsare featured, revisited with new details: ultralight thick bottoms, special eyelets, buckles decoration, touches of colour. For a true gentleman. Impeccabili e di altissima qualità le nuove calzature classiche maschili. Puntano su modelli sempreverdi, rivisitati con dettagli inediti: fondi spessi ultralight, occhielli speciali, giochi di fibbie, tocchi di colore. Da vero gentleman.
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BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
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SPOTLIGHT ON SNEAKERS follow the link at arsutoriamagazine.com/fashion-service/435-sposne
GUCCI
BALENCIAGA
FENDI
GIVENCHY
VERSACE
OFF-WHITE
Oversized, colourful and must-have. Loved by influencers and fashion victims, the new chunky shoes play with huge, but always ergonomic bottoms, rounded toes, bright contrasting colours in truly ‘90s style. Maximalism mood. Oversized, colorate e imperdibili. Amate da influencer e fashion victim, le nuove chunky shoes da acquistare giocano con i fondi importanti ma sempre ergonomici, punte arrotondate, cromie accese a contrasto in puro stile anni ’90. Massimaliste.
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ICEBERG
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TRADITION
MORESCHI
L.F. LIDFORT
GREEN GEORGE
ALBERTO FASCIANI
VACCARI
RICCARDO FRECCIA BESTETTI
Tradition can, of course, not be missing and must make a good presence every season. Even better if it can add some changes, such as thickened bottoms or straps embellished with metal accessories. Warm tones of the autumn earth meet black and the intense green of winter. Certo la tradizione non può mancare e deve fare bella presenza ad ogni stagione. Meglio se riesce ad apportare qualche novità, come i fondi spessorati o le cinghiette impreziosite da accessori metallici. I toni caldi della terra autunnale incontrano il nero e il verde intenso dell’inverno.
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CELINE
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BE DIFFERENT
POLLINI
DOUCAL'S
A TESTONI
FRATELLI ROSSETTI
POLLINI
VERBA
When surprising is not an option, but a need, then we rely on small details capable of creating novelty and a little bit of bewilderment. Wrap-around bands, semiconcealed fringes, camouflage patterns or tank bottom sneakers. Quando stupire non è un’opzione, ma un’esigenza, allora ci si affida a piccoli dettagli capaci di creare novità e un poco di sconcerto. Fasce avvolgenti, frange semi-nascoste, fantasie camouflage o sneaker su fondo carrarmato.
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GMBH
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NEW MOCASSINS
DELAVE'
VERBA
FRATELLI ROSSETTI
DUCAL
L.F. LIDFORT
BARRETT
Even the moccasin is reinterpreted with very interesting nuances. The pie-de-poule 2.0 gives freshness to the most classic of the genre making it unique. And then double buckle, contrasting band, metallic tip. . . all trendy choices that cannot be passed over in silence. Anche il mocassino viene reinterpretato con sfumature molto interessanti. Il pie-de-poule 2.0 dà freschezza alla più classica del genere rendendola un unicum. E poi doppia fibbia, fascetta in contrasto, puntale metallizzato… tutte scelte di tendenza che non possono passare sotto silenzio.
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JUNYA WATANABE
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BOOTY MAN
GREEN GEORGE
FERRICELLI
FRANCESCHETTI
DELAVE'
GIANNI GALLUCCI
MORESCHI
The inevitable boot follows two main lines of development within which different variants are grafted. The first runs along the classic beatle path, interpreting the stretch-band in various ways. The second path is that of the more aggressive biker, who draws a style with stronger character. L’immancabile stivaletto segue due linee principali di sviluppo all’interno delle quali si innestano differenti varianti. La prima percorre il sentiero del beatle classico interpretando la fascia elasticizzata in vari modi. La seconda strada è quella del biker più aggressivo, che disegna uno stile di più forte carattere.
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ROCHAS
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STYLE TREK
KILDARE
DOUCAL'S
MINORONZONI 1953
FRANCESCHETTI
FRANCESCHETTI
RAPARO
The mountain and climbing theme continues to have great appeal for designers who want to follow it and investigate it in every nuance. Material changes and details of the lacing in the foreground. It is curious how the sole often takes a back seat and does not lead style. Il tema montagna e scalata continua a rivestire grande fascino per i designer che vogliono percorrerlo e indagarlo in ogni sua sfumatura. Cambiamenti materici, i dettagli dell’allacciatura in primo piano. Curioso come la suola spesso passi in secondo piano e non sia lei a connotare lo stile.
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JACQUEMUS
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SPORT WITH A HYPE
VOILE BLANCHE
A TESTONI
HARMONT & BLAINE
LOTTO LEGGENDA
VOILE BLANCHE
A TESTONI
The elegance of the most refined and wellfinished sneakers evolves into a series of fashion-running proposals that make contrasting colours and inserts one of their strong points. Up to the models that ride the most fashionable taste of the moment studying very voluminous bottoms and extreme design. L’eleganza delle sneaker più raffinate e curate nei dettagli si evolve in una serie di proposte fashion-running che fanno del colore e degli inserti in contrasto il loro punto di forza. Fino a giungere ai modelli che cavalcano il gusto più in voga del momento studiando fondi molto voluminosi e dal design estremo.
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PIGALLE
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CLUB TASTE
FERRICELLI
FERRACINI
GOFER
BOLTON FOOTWEAR
MARITAN
PAOLO PAPINI
Simplicity, class and tradition, without forgetting the quality of materials and the attention to details. These are the characteristics of the classic man who seeks the best for his days in society. Semplicità, classe e tradizione, senza dimenticare la qualità dei materiali e l’attenzione per i dettagli. Queste le caratteristiche dell’uomo classico che cerca il meglio per le sue giornate in società.
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ALYX
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SUN BOOT
MARINOZZI
MILTON RICARDO
J.M. FOOTWEAR
ANTICA CALZOLERIA CAMPANA
DAMA
CALZATURIFICIO SARTORI
From the office to the climbing wall. Boots proposed for Him are very wide-ranged and different. What matters is that the boot just above the ankle is a very popular model, which is offered in almost all collections that one can imagine next winter. Dall’ufficio alla parete da scalare. Sono molto varie e diverse fra loro le proposte di stivali per Lui. Quel che conta è che lo stivaletto appena sopra la caviglia sia un modello molto richiesto e proposto in quasi tutte le collezioni che immaginano il prossimo inverno.
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KENZO
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CONFORT ZONE
KILDARE
GOFER
DI FRANCO
ANATOMIC GEL
SHOETHERAPY
FERRICELLI
Rubber or PU bottoms, for informal proposals that seem designed for leisure time. Surely the comfort of the foot is taken into account, while design details become less evident. Fondi in gomma o in PU, per le proposte informali che sembrano studiate per il tempo libero. Sicuramente la comodità del piede è tenuta in debito conto, mentre i dettagli di design si fanno meno evidenti.
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LEMAIRE
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ACTIVE SOCIETY
GOLA
WALK THIS WAY
WEST COAST
LORENZI
FIEVER
RAPARO
Still and always sneaker! Low box soles or running inspiration. There are many proposals that deal with these two sides of the same coin: that desire for sport that influences the most requested shoes of the moment. Ancora e sempre sneaker! Fondi bassi a cassetta o ispirazione running. Moltissime le proposte che si cimentano con queste due facce della stessa medaglia: quella voglia di sport che influenza le scarpe piĂš richieste del momento.
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URBAN HIKING
NICHIMAN
LORENZI
NICOLA BENSON
ARMATA DI MARE
PITTI SHOES
OXS
Urban boots to face the city streets, and to experience everyday life like a trip into the woods. The result is a successful mix between a biker and a mountain boot, where the hiking-inspired eyelets and lace threaders act as a counterbalance to the prominent bottom and the upper, treated to withstand the weather, which completes the bold image of these shoes for the urban adventurer. Gli urban boot per affrontare la città e per vivere la quotidianità come una escursione in mezzo ai boschi. Il risultato è un riuscito mix tra un polacco e uno scarponcino, nel quale gli occhielli e passalacci da montagna fanno da contraltare al fondo importante e la tomaia trattata per resistere agli agenti atmosferici completa l’immagine grintosa di queste calzature per l’avventuriero urbano.
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BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
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BRITISHNESS
MIRAGE
ANTICA CALZOLERIA CAMPANA
FRATELLI ROSSETTI
ANTICA CALZOLERIA CAMPANA
HARMONT & BLAINE
ALDO BRUÉ
chic che non passano inosservati e dalle
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BALMAIN
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HYBRID-CHIC
HARRIS
NICOLA BENSON
LUCA GUERRINI
VERBA
CALLAGHAN
GIANFRANCO BUTTERI
easywear while playing down the stylistic
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DSQUARED2
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DANDY-ISM
MARIO FAGNI
LORIBLU
HIROSHI ARAI'S
ELIA MAURIZI
LORIBLU
VALENTINO SHOES
A real declaration of style: the trendiest shoes feature precious details and touch &
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DOLCE E GABBANA
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ULTRA CLASSIC
HARRIS
FLORENCE
FERRACINI 24H
FRATELLI ROSSETTI
ANTONIO MAURIZI
PERSONAL SHOES
leather and the well-rationed presence of
verdi.
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FENDI
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THE FASHION SNEAKER
BARRACUDA
W6YZ
FLOWER MOUNTAIN
LAB MILANO
CESARE PACIOTTI
ME.LAND
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MSGM
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