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20/09/2020 - bimestrale ISSN 2611-108X

9

772611

108000

00017

SEP 2020 € 7,00


ANCI SERVIZI SRL


FASHION ICON

Giorgio Armani OPINION LEADER

Massimo Bonini

INTERVIEWS

Luís Onofre Sebastian Milano

00017

108000 772611 9

ISSN 2611-108X

13/09/2020 - bimestrale

€ 7,00

SEPT 2020

17

Shoes IMAC


MORE THAN

600

EXHIBITING BRANDS MORE THAN

5,000

INTERNATIONAL BUYERS

5 SHOWS, ONE EVENT

SHOES, BAGS, PRÊT-À-PORTER, MATERIALS, ACCESSORIES, JEWELS


elcome to Micam Milano 90. After the lockdown, MICAM represents a concrete opportunity for shoe companies to restart the business. The protection of the health of exhibitors, visitors and staff involved in organizing the event will be guaranteed by the Guidelines developed with Fiera Milano to ensure the highest safety standards.


EMERGING DESIGNERS PAV 1e

An area dedicated to emerging Italian and international designers who have distinguished themselves on the contemporary footwear scene, selected by a panel of fashion experts.


MICAM Milano 90 strategy is based on 5 fundamental assets: 1 PROTECTING THE HEALTH of our exhibitors, visitors and the staff involved in the organisation. We have put together Guidelines, with Fiera Milano and “Conference of the Regions”, to ensure maximum safety standards are upheld. 2 SUSTAINABILITY A whole section of the event will be dedicated to the topic in the Garden, launched at the February 2020 edition.

The synergy with other events will make the 90th edition of Micam truly unique. MICAM Milano will occupy halls 1-2-3-4 and 6. Halls 1 and 3 will be called Premium and will host the most exclusive offer of MICAM, an area occupied by MIPEL (leather goods) and TheOneMilano Special, featured by MICAM (women’s prêt-à-porter fair). To complete the exhibition offer: HOMI Fashion & Jewels Exhibition (19-22 September) and Lineapelle (22 - 23 September).

3 THE TOPICS FEATURED in the MICAM X programme, the idea workshop focusing on innovation, which revolves around 4 main themes: retail of the future, sustainability, trends and materials, heritage & future. 4 PROMOTING EMERGING TALENTS

at the international level, giving them the opportunity to exhibit their collections in the “Emerging Designers” area at the biyearly editions of MICAM Milano.

5 DIGITISATION We are aware that the pandemic has accelerated digital transformation, leading us too, at MICAM, to redesign the paradigms of our customer experience to make it more complete and efficient. From September, MICAM will be phygital, taking the physical world online thanks to our partnership with the world leading B2B platform NuORDER, already used by 500,000 retailers around the world.


15 September / 15 November 2020

MICAM Milano DIGITAL SHOW MICAM Milano extends its traditional range of services to include a digital platform aimed at providing exhibitors with enhanced business opportunities, thanks to its full integration with modern digital marketing and customer management tools.

Why they already joined? Alessandro Porta Jeannot - General Manager

Pasquale Della Pia Della Pia s.r.l. - Owner

Salina Ferretti Falc S.p.A. - General Manager

The digitization of our footwear companies represents a fundamental step to reach consumers and buyers directly. MICAM Digital allows our offer to reach thousands of buyers, who already use the NuORDER platform, to place their orders.

MICAM Digital is not an alternative to the physical fair, but its natural continuation. The online B2B sale of footwear represents a new evolution of the market that we cannot fail to grasp and make the most of as an innovative service for customers. I hope that in 2 years MICAM Digital will become the largest digital footwear fair in the world.

I think it is very interesting to be able to reach customers even remotely, especially in this period when international mobility is limited. I believe that these new solutions will increasingly complement traditional activities. This will be a test season, but digital is undoubtedly very important to us.


ADVANTAGES FOR EXHIBITORS •

Branded B2B portal: a real mini-website, navigable by buyers in the community and allowing individual orders, entire collections and specific products to be shared with customers.

•

Digital Catalogues and Customizable Linesheets: present personalized buying recommendations based on a buyer’s previous order history and which items you think will perform best in their stores.

•

Customize the Buying Experience: setup custom pricing, percentage discounts, and volume- based pricing for specific customer groups.

•

Virtual showroom: a completely new way of presenting your Brand, through shoppable hotspots, 360° product images and videos.

•

Powerful reporting: a dashboard for analysing customer interaction, preferences and sales. In-season availability: upload your inventory to show immediate availability.

ADVANTAGES FOR BUYERS • The buyer has to request access to the brand’s complete profile through the preview showcase.

• Once contact has been made, the buyer and the brand can communicate by email, video.

• The buyer has access to a real online catalogue of products with costs, shipping and payment terms.

• The order is entered directly on the MICAM Digital Show platform by the brand on the basis of the buyer’s requests, or directly by the buyer who compiles it and sends it for approval.

Gilberto Ballin Moda di Fausto - Commercial Director MICAM Digital is an international b2b platform that fully embraces the business needs of this historic moment. An absolute help to conclude negotiations and orders. The virtual showroom will be easily accessible by customers unable to attend the usual exhibitions.

Giovanna Ceolini Thierry Rabotin - CEO MICAM Digital will give impetus to the digitization of those companies that have never before been able to do it, by choice or by obligation. Relying on digital, in these critical months, has ‘forced’ us to a more meticulous job of narrating our products, that we will use on the platform and on our social channels.

Imanol Martínez Federation of Spanish Footwear Industries - Marketing & Intl Business Develop. Director Through MICAM Digital exhibitors will be able to show new collections to international buyers from around the world, even after the physical exhibition has ended, generating new contacts. The digital platform has very interesting communication and marketing tools to increase the visibility of the brand and the products among.”


ISSUE 17/2020 EDIZIONI AF SRL Via Ippolito Nievo, 33 - 20145 Milano Tel. +39 02 319121 - Fax +39 02 33611619 www.edizioniaf.com info@edizioniaf.com Direttore responsabile Matteo Pasca Direttore editoriale Lorenzo Raggi Art director Angelo Lanza angelo.lanza@edizioniaf.com Fashion editor Luca Termine luca.termine@edizioniaf.com Fashion guru Giusi Ferré Graphic design Michele Alberti michele.alberti@edizioniaf.com Contributors Alessandro Milzoni, Andrea Vailetti, Antony West, Chiara Antille, Donnie Garcia, Fabiana Guigli, Fumatto, Joe Colosimo, Gautier Pellegrin, Giacomo Saravalli, Giulia Mantovani, Karolina Gendek D’Andrea, Linda Loef, Marco D’Amico, Matteo Triola, Sabrina Mellace, Sara De Chirico, Taris Persiani,Yadier Castro Piedra, Virginia Cuscito In redazione Erika Alberti, Cristina Locati, Enrico Martinelli, Barbara Solini redazione@edizioniaf.com Responsabile promozione fiere Giuseppe Picco Promozione Lorenzo Caresana, Filippo Crepaldi, Piernicola Fascetto, Giorgio Gori, Mario Gori, Lucio Luiselli, Enza Masotti, Stefano Migliavacca, Josè Rivera, Natalie Spelge adv@edizioniaf.com Marketing, digital e abbonamenti Mariella Catalano, Mariel Cuba, Andrea Zampieri subscription@edizioniaf.com Operations Elisa Trasi operations@edizioniaf.com Stampa Arti Grafiche La Milanesa - Rho (MI) Distributore nazionale: m-dis

Foto e illustrazioni Alcune foto sono prese dal web in assenza di copyright. Chi riconosce immagini di sua proprietà lo segnali a AF Mag Poste Italiane Spa - Spedizione in abbonamento postale - Autorizzazione MBPA/LO - NO/114/A.P./2017 ART.1 COMMA1 - LO/MI. Pubblicazione registrata presso il Tribunale di Milano al numero 374 in data 3 luglio 1995. © Copyright 1967 - È vietata la riproduzione senza autorizzazione dei testi e delle immagini. Il trattamento dei dati personali dei destinatari di “Idea Pelle” è svolto nel rispetto della Legge 675/96 sulla Privacy. È possibile chiedere la modifi ca o la cancellazione dei propri dati indirizzando la richiesta a: Edizioni AF S.r.l. sede di Via Ippolito Nievo, 33 - 20145 Milano - Italy ai numeri di fax e di posta elettronica sopraindicati.

Shoes IMAC Jumpsuit GUY LA ROCHE Photo: Angelo Lanza Fashion: Luca Termine Make-up: Imma Mennuti Hairstyle: Xavier Perez @MKS Milano Model: Luisa Bianchin @MonsterModel MNG


EDITORIAL

13 D Capsule

ior con Nike, Adidas con Prada, Stella McCartney e Missoni, D&G con la loro esclusivissima NS1. La voglia di sneaker non è mai scomparsa, così come non è nuovo il fenomeno delle collaborazioni fra i brand del lusso e i più blasonati marchi ‘sportivi’. Nulla di inedito su cui soffermarsi, quindi, se non fosse che questo trend degli ultimi mesi denota un altro fenomeno importante per la moda attuale: capsule collection prima di tutto. Se ne accennava già sul numero scorso parlando con Liu Jo, e ne conferma il valore anche Bonini nelle prossime pagine. Se Armani (di cui Giusi Ferré traccia un bel profilo) chiede di arginare la voracità della moda, in questo momento pare che rivedere gli schemi tradizionali significhi gettarsi su progetti molto particolari, unici, che catturino l’attenzione e non rischino di tornare ad affollare i magazzini, già abbastanza stipati. Il concetto capsule consente ai brand lanci periodici che portano novità costanti nelle vetrine. Storie fresche e nuove che i clienti desiderano scoprire. Ma consente anche, a chi produce, di mantenere viva la relazione con la propria rete vendita superando i canonici limiti temporali delle presentazioni di collezione sfruttando al massimo i vantaggi del digitale, ormai ottimo non solo per coinvolgere il consumatore finale, ma anche per gestire al meglio ordini B2B. Curiose, particolari, molto raccontate e curate nei dettagli, le capsule presentano non solo il pregio di risollevare le vendite, ma anche quello di preservare l’unicità di ciascuno di noi, nonostante si nuoti spesso in un mare di stereotipi. E non è un aspetto trascurabile, anzi. Rappresenta forse il recupero più essenziale del valore del fenomeno moda: essere epifania della personalità di ciascuno. Perché se è vero che tutti nasciamo unici, solo alcuni continuano ad esserlo, come recitava Bob Marley. Potrebbero essere proprio le capsule ad aiutarci a conservare la nostra identità, a rilanciare il senso profondo dello ‘stile’ e a rinvigorire gli affari.

Dior with Nike, Adidas with Prada, Stella McCartney and Missoni, D&G with their very exclusive NS1. The desire for sneakers has never disappeared, just as the phenomenon of collaborations between luxury brands and the most famous ‘sports’ brands is not new. Nothing unprecedented to dwell on, therefore, except that this trend of the past months denotes another important phenomenon for current fashion: capsule collection first of all. It was already mentioned in the last issue talking with Liu Jo, and also Bonini confirms its value in the following pages. If Armani (of which Giusi Ferré draws a nice profile) asks to stem the voraciousness of fashion, at this moment it seems that reviewing the traditional schemes means throwing oneself on very particular, unique projects that capture attention without risking to build again crowds in already full warehouses. The capsule concept allows brands periodic launches that bring constant news to their showcase. Fresh and new stories that customers want to discover. But it also enables producers to keep the relationship with their sales network alive by overcoming the canonical time limits of the presentation of the collections taking full advantage of digital, by now excellent not just for involving the end consumer, but also for managing better B2B orders. Curious, particular, well described and finely crafted, capsules not only have the advantage of raising sales, but also of preserving the uniqueness of each one of us, despite the fact that we often swim in a sea of stereotypes. And it is not an inconsiderable issue. On the contrary, it perhaps represents the most essential recovery value of the fashion phenomenon: being the realisation of everyone’s personality. Because if it is true that all are born unique, only a few continue to be so, as Bob Marley said. It may be thanks to capsules that we preserve our identity, revive the profound sense of ‘style’ and reinvigorate business.

Matteo Pasca

Matteo Pasca

13


56020 SANTA MARIA A MONTE (PI) Italy Via Giacomo Brodolini, 5/A Tel. +39 0587 707 213 · Fax +39 0587 705 070 info@fratellivanni.it


FRATEL L I_VA N N I


016

Bag WEEKEND MAX MARA Shoes MOMONÌ


ISSUE N.17 SEPT 2020

FASHION GURU

Bodies of other genders OPINION LEADER

Massimo Bonini FASHION ICON

Giorgio Armani ART

Angel Boy Design

INTERVIEWS

Luís Onofre Sebastian Milano

FASHION

September issue #3 Personne ne se laisse plus aimer A claim to love Silly tourist Everything happens for a reason Alice in Wonderland Catwalk #1 LIFE LINE

Memories of rebirth Black Lives Matter RUNWAY

Woman/Man F/W 2020/21

ON-STAGE

Preview S/S 2021 COMICS

fashioncartoonist

20 24 28 32 36 59

138 143 163 194


STAR_S.P.A._A RTIOL I


OPINION LEADER

La finanza ha esasperato i tempi della moda, quindi? In un mondo che sta cambiando così tanto, anche a causa del web, bisogna comunque tornare a rispettare i tempi della creatività, dell’espressività, della ricerca. La moda è arte contemporanea, e pretende i suoi tempi per esprimersi. Voi trattate made in Italy al 100%: come dovrebbe cambiare la produzione per seguire la nuova logica che ci ha prospettato? Fino ad oggi le aziende hanno rispettato una metodologia imposta in modo schematico. Ci mettevano due mesi per realizzare una campionatura. Il futuro della produzione sarà uscire dagli schemi rigidi, e tornare a essere più flessibili, prestando molta più attenzione ai costi. Come prevedete il futuro andamento del business? Nel 2021 dovremmo assistere a una crescita importante, grazie alle strategie messe in campo fino ad ora. Se si lavora bene, si fa bene. Crediamo che il ridimensionamento della distribuzione di tanti brand, sia nel livello altissimo che medio, offra molte opportunità per un’azienda come la nostra che lavora proprio in quel segmento. Questo scenario dischiuderà molte possibilità non solo per noi, ma anche per altri segmenti di mercato, e potrebbe in qualche modo rilanciare l’intero sistema. Tutto questo lo facciamo attraverso formule innovative che sappiano raccontare e distribuire la moda in maniera nuova per creare nuove esperienze. Massimo Bonini loves his job, even during this difficult moment, which he defines as “stimulating, because it will force us to implement an enormous change in nearly all sectors, but especially in that of the fashion industry”. At the same time, he is not afraid of changes: every six months he updates the strategies of his historic and prestigious showroom in Milan (with headquarters today also in New York and Hong Kong), to confirm their international leadership in the world of accessories. His formula? Careful scouting of unique brands, products constructed to have a great screen presence, strictly Italian productive partners, and an innovative service that blends the physical showroom with the digital world also through public relations. Massimo Bonini recounts his exclusive vision to AFmag, along with his ideas and new projects. In what situation do you currently find yourselves and what projects do you have for the future? Thirty years of history and loyal international clientele have allowed us to finish up the Fall-Winter sales campaign with leftover stock that is perfectly in the norm. We are working on the pre-collection of July, by focusing on special projects and capsule collections that many of our most important customers – international websites, stores, and high-end department stores – are already awaiting. For September, we feel fairly positive: in Milan, we will organise events, which are new in their layout, and we will present in particular a couple of remarkably interesting international brands, American and Japanese, which however are produced in Italy. Mini-collections capable of ‘captivating on screen’.

26

Do you believe the current emphasis on virtual online fashion shows will continue? People will return to the desire to experience real, concrete, emotions, and buyers appreciate seeing products first-hand: having said this, the way fashion events have been organised up until today seems a little outdated, and it is exactly for this reason that I believe this new digital solution will live on beyond the immediate moment. There will be a need to identify new formulas that make shows more innovative. And I believe that in September we will see many new innovations in this regard. How will the timing of sales change? Even the pre-Covid timing of sales revolved around a concept that is out of date. I believe it will be important for collections to return to a focus on the product, where the question asked is: Do I have the right product ready? If the answer is yes, then that product will be presented, sold, and distributed in that precise instant. These are known as sales drops… and we propose quite a few of them, which always works out quite well. It no longer makes sense to go to the store in July and find overcoats: we have disturbed the natural order of things, as also confirmed by Armani. All of us, for too long now, have chosen to follow the laws laid down by large companies that did not always take into consideration the real needs of the end customer. So, business has turned the timing of fashion inside out? In a world that is changing so much, also because of the web, we need to start once again respecting the time needed for creativity, expressivity, and research. Fashion is contemporary art, and it requires a certain amount of time to express itself. Your business revolves around 100% Made in Italy products: how should production change to follow the new logic that has come into being? Up until today, companies respected a methodology that was schematic. It took two months to create samples. The future of production will not be limited by this rigid scheme, and will return to being more flexible, with greater attention paid to costs. How do you believe things will proceed in the future for your business? In 2021, we should once again witness important growth, thanks to the strategies that have been implemented up until now. If you work well, you do well. We believe that the reshaping of distribution by many brands, both of extremely high levels and in the mid-level range, will offer many opportunities for a company like ours that works in this segment. This scenario will open up a number of possibilities not only for us, but also for other segments of the market, and it could in some way even relaunch the entire system. Everything we do is done through innovative formulas that know how to recount and distribute fashion in a new way that creates new experiences.


FEDERATION FRANCAIS


C.C.M S.A.S. - 182 à 188, avenue Paul Vaillant Couturier - 93120 La Courneuve France • T 0033 (1) 49. 92. 88. 88 - www.davidjones.paris


C.C.M S.A.S. - 182 à 188, avenue Paul Vaillant Couturier - 93120 La Courneuve France • T 0033 (1) 49. 92. 88. 88 - www.davidjones.paris


FAIRS

Modtissimo, fashion and sustainability

L

o show portoghese dell’industria tessile conferma le date di settembre, pronto con una selezione di qualità ed un focus su sostenibilità ad incontrare un mercato fashion sempre più esigente. L’edizione di febbraio di Modtissimo, lo show portoghese dedicato ai tessuti per il settore moda, si è chiusa con successo presentando 297 collezioni, di cui 55 particolarmente improntate a criteri di sostenibilità, ad un pubblico di 527 buyer internazionali e 631 portoghesi. Oggi, nonostante la confusione generata dalla pandemia, Modtissimo conferma l’appuntamento del 22 e 23 settembre presso la sede di Alfândega do Porto, presentando ancora una volta una selezione di alta qualità di aziende tessili e di abbigliamento. Rinnovando la sua vocazione a riflettere il settore e promuovere l’innovazione per una industria che continua a reinventarsi su impulso del mercato, Modtissimo anche per questa 56.ma edizione punta sulle collezioni sostenibili come fattore chiave per incontrare un settore fashion sempre più orientato alla tematica. Il Portogallo, d’altronde, è leader nel commercio green e nelle produzioni ecologiche: sotto il segno di “Feel”, concetto che rappresenta i tessuti come una seconda pelle rispondendo a criteri di sostenibilità e trasparenza, i buyer troveranno in fiera i prodotti più innovativi di questo segmento. Si conferma anche il Fashion Forum che ha debuttato all’edizione di febbraio, raggruppando in un unico spazio le aree tendenza, con la Selezione Espositori, le novità di abbigliamento per bambino, e le innovazioni di Futuro Sostenibile. Il pubblico di Modtissimo “rappresenta una ampia gamma dei geografie - spiega Manuel Serrão, CEO di Associação Selectiva Moda, organizzatore dell’evento – Germania, Olanda, Russia, Spagna sono i paesi più rappresentati all’ultima edizione, ma non mancano presenze dagli Usa e dal Far East”: l’attesa è di riconfermare anche a settembre l’internazionalità dell’evento. The Portuguese show dedicated to the textile industry confirms its dates in September and is ready to offer an increasingly demanding fashion market a quality selection with a focus on sustainability. The February edition of Modtissimo, the trade fair dedicated to the Portuguese Textile and Clothing Industry, ended on a positive note with 297 collections, of which 55 were especially oriented towards sustainability, presented to a public of 527 international buyers and 631 Portuguese buyers. Today, despite the confusion generated by the pandemic, Modtissimo confirms the rendezvous from 22 to 23 September at Alfândega do Porto, once again presenting a high-quality selection of textile and clothing companies. Renewing its vocation as a representative of the sector, while promoting innovation for an industry that continues to reinvent itself in accordance with the market’s impulses, for its 56th edition, Modtissimo once again focuses on sustainable collections as a key factor for meeting up with a fashion sector that is increasingly driven by this theme. After all, Portugal is a leader in green commerce and in organic production: in the spirit of “Feel”, a concept that represents fabrics like a second skin, while also respecting environmental standards and transparency, buyers will find the most innovative products in this segment at the fair. At the same time, the Fashion Forum which debuted at the February edition, is reconfirmed, grouping the various trend areas into one single area, with the Exhibitors Selection, the latest trends in apparel for kids, and the innovations of Sustainable Future. The public of Modtissimo “represents a wide range of geographies - explains Manuel Serrão, CEO of Associação Selectiva Moda and organiser of the event – Germany, Netherlands, Russia, and Spain were the countries most represented at the last edition, but there were also participants from the USA and Far East”: the expectation is to reconfirm also in September the international scope of the event.

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BlueStar_LUCAGUERRIN


FAIRS

Sapica 83 will be a hybrid event, between the physical and digital world

L

a più importante manifestazione dedicata al settore calzatura e accessori del Messico si prepara ad accogliere gli operatori puntando sull’evoluzione del modello di business, condivisione del sapere e glam digitale Nonostante la crisi sanitaria abbia colpito il settore moda in modo pesante in Messico come altrove, Sapica confida nel fatto che nelle crisi ci siano delle opportunità e nella resilienza dell’industria della calzatura e della pelletteria messicana. Per questo si prepara ad accogliere il suo pubblico a Leon, dal 6 all’8 ottobre 2020, sviluppando ed evolvendo le sue strategie e il modello di business con l’obiettivo di riattivare l’economia e rafforzare la catena di valore. Frutto di questa strategia è la decisione di tenere una edizione di Sapica ibrida, parte in presenza e parte su una piattaforma digitale dedicata, che permetterà di rafforzare il dialogo tra espositori e buyer. Il Knowledge Pavillion che nelle passate edizioni si è costituito come una vera e propria conferenza di condivisione del sapere per la calzatura, si terrà in modalità digitale. Gli operatori della fiera avranno così l’occasione di accedere ad informazioni come le tendenze moda, i trend di consumo e l’evoluzione dei modelli di business, con un semplice click attraverso i propri computer e i dispositivi elettronici. Anche le sfilate di moda, con il loro glam importante attrazione di Sapica, si svolgeranno con un innovativo formato digitale, rinnovando anche in questa occasione la tradizionale collaborazione tra importanti designer messicani e i migliori produttori di calzature e accessori. Sul versante fisico, invece, la priorità di Sapica è garantire sicurezza degli operatori attraverso uno stringente protocollo di Salute, Sicurezza e Igiene, in modo da permettere al pubblico internazionale di poter lavorare con la massima tranquillità in fiera. The most important event dedicated to the footwear and accessories industry in Mexico gets ready to welcome operators by focusing on the evolution of the business model, while sharing know-how and offering digital glam Although the healthcare emergency hit the fashion industry quite hard in Mexico, as it did elsewhere, Sapica believes that in a crisis lies opportunity and trusts in the resilience of the Mexican footwear and leather goods industry. For this reason, it gets ready to welcome its public in Leon, from 6 to 8 October 2020, developing and evolving its strategies and business model with the aim of reactivating the economy and reinforcing the value chain. Fruit of this strategy is the decision to hold a hybrid edition of Sapica, with part of it presented on a dedicated digital platform, which will allow for the dialogue between exhibitors and buyers to be reinforced. The Knowledge Pavilion, which in past editions was a bona fide congress for sharing footwear know-how, will accordingly be held in digital format. Members of the trade will have the opportunity to access information like fashion trends, consumer trends, and the evolution of business models, with just a simple click through their own computers and electronic devices. Even fashion shows with their glam, which represent an important attraction at Sapica, will be held with an innovative digital format, also renewing on this occasion the traditional collaboration between leading Mexican designers and the very best footwear and accessory products. Instead, for the physical part of the fair, the priority of Sapica is to guarantee the safety of operators through a strict Health, Safety, and Hygiene protocol, so that the international public can work serenely and with great confidence at the fair.

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C I C EG_SA P IC A


NEWS

LaFabbri, a friend always at hand Ricercata, raffinata ed esclusiva: LaFabbri porta nel mondo della borsa del lusso originalità e materiali di eccellente qualità, per incontrare i desideri di ogni donna. Il nome stesso fa pensare a quello di un’amica che condivide con te ogni momento della tua vita: ecco quindi che borse strutturate che mixano elementi fashion come le stampe animalier con dettagli geometrici, secchielli che abbinano a pelli laminate o scamosciate reverse in tenero orsetto, e tracolline fashion in pelle con patelle over con stampa fantasia, diventano accessori irrinunciabili della quotidianità di ogni donna. A firmarle è Lisaurora Fabrizi: giovane designer italiana formatasi all’Istituto di Design di Roma e con all’attivo stage in importanti maison, ha deciso di fare il salto e creare il proprio marchio, per imprimere il suo personale segno nel mondo della moda. Da questa idea, nonché dal grande amore per la borsa, è nata appunto LaFabbri, che rappresenta il modo per esprimere la propria creatività e condividerla. Sophisticated, refined, and exclusive: LaFabbri brings originality and materials of the highest quality to the world of bags, in order to satisfy the desires of every woman. The name itself brings to mind a friend who shares every moment of your life with you: accordingly, structured bags that combine fashion elements like animalier prints and geometric details, handbags that match laminated leathers or reverse suede in supple teddy bear, and fashion shoulder bags in leather with over-printed fantasy flaps, become essential accessories in the daily life of every woman. Designing them is Lisaurora Fabrizi: a young Italian designer who studied at the Institute of Design in Rome, and who after a number of internships with important maisons, decided to take the leap and create her own brand, so she could leave behind her own personal mark in the world of fashion. From this idea, as well as from a great love for bags, arrives LaFabbri, which represents a way of expressing and sharing individual creativity.

LeShow Moscow: an unexpected success Si archivia come un successo la 23.ma edizione di LeShow Moscow: nonostante lo sfidante scenario economico imposto dal Coronavirus, l’edizione speciale in corso dal 3 al 5 settembre presso il Main Stage di Mosca ha superato ogni aspettativa, facendo incontrare i 56 espositori internazionali del settore pelle, pelliccia e tessile con un pubblico di circa 10mila visitatori provenienti soprattutto da Russia e CIS, ma anche da varie geografie del mondo. Le collezioni di altissima qualità e le aree tendenze sviluppate dalla fiera hanno costituito la principale attrazione dello show che ha offerto una occasione unica per lo sviluppo della consapevolezza dei brand. Durante la tre giorni non sono poi mancate occasioni di generare nuove linee guida per il businss, creare relazioni proficue e costruire un forte network con attori chiave dei settori globali della pelle, pelliccia, tessile e abbigliamento. L’evento da appuntamento alla sua community a LeShow Istanbul dal 21 al 23 gennaio 2021 al Centro Congressi della capitale turca. The 23rd edition of LeShow Moscow ends on a successful note: despite the difficult economic scenario presented by the Coronavirus, the special edition held from 3 to 5 September at the Main Stage in Moscow, exceeded all expectations, allowing 56 international exhibitors from the leather, fur, and textile industry to meet up with a public of around 10 thousand visitors coming above all from Russia and the CSI area, but also from various parts of the world. The extremely high quality of the collections and the trend areas developed by the fair were the main attraction of the show, which offered a unique opportunity for learning about the brands. During the three days, opportunities arose for creating new business guidelines, establishing profitable relationships, and constructing a strong network with key players from the global sectors of leather, fur, textiles, and apparel. The event’s next rendezvous with its public is at LeShow Istanbul from 21 to 23 January 2021 at the Congress Centre of the Turkish capital.

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Z ANI_ M ARC E LLO


SAO _ PA U LO _ C O U RO M O D A


runway Woman/Man F/W 2020/21

CHANEL


P A R I S

LANVIN

DRIES VAN NOTEN

LOEWE


MESSE_OFFEN BA C H


ASSIA TREND


Preview S/S 2021

Drawing by Joe Colosimo

on-stage


MAGAZINES

SUBSCRIBE! AF MAGAZINE is the undisputed guide that provides important information on the latest trends from the world of accessories: shoes, bags and leather goods.

ARSUTORIA

FOTO SHOE 30

Arsutoria offers the most complete information for footwear manufacturers and designers: collections, materials and technology.

An overview on mediumend footwear market: news, articles and pictures. Foto Shoe 30 is a must have for wholesalers and mass retailers..

arsutoriamagazine.com

fotoshoemagazine.com

ARPEL

BAMBINO

Arpel magazine is exclusively dedicated to bags & leathergoods: news & interviews, scouting, collections, materials and technology.

Focused on children and kids footwear, Bambino inlcudes also the access to arstrends.com/Kids, the online database of shoes.

arpelmagazine.com

fotoshoemagazine.com

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INSPIRATIONS FOR DESIGNERS ARSUTORIA TRENDS GUIDE 2 Issues

An exclusive focus on shoes and bags to offer unique insights and ideas. A unique research on worldwide lifestyle, deeply analyzed into several aspects: keywords, colors, volumes, materials, moodboards, catwalk analysis.

ARSUTORIA ONLY WOMAN ONLY MAN / ONLY SNEAKERS ARPEL ONLY BAG

BOOKS Hard cover book of over 200 pages of shoes presented for each season on fairs and catwalks.

Published in November for SS and in April for AW.

CONTENTS ONLINE CONCEPT AND COLORS #HASHTAG CATWALK ANALYSIS SHAPES ANALYSIS MATERIALS

One issue published for S/S in November and one for A/W in May

ARSTRENDS

ARSUTORIA/ARPEL HISTORICAL ARCHIVE

ONLINE SHOE AND BAG DATABASE

LOOK INTO THE PAST TO CREATE THE FUTURE

A huge database of photos of shoes, bags and materials, divided by style, season, events and much more.

NOW AVAILABLE ONLINE CONSULTATION! For computer, tablet, and mobile (iOS & Android)

Hundreds of new pictures uploaded every week. Get the last trend information from international fairs, catwalks, retail windows and e-commerce. Get inspired by original prototypes.

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I.L.M. INT’L LEATHER GOODS FAIR MESSE OFFENBACH GmbH 63065 OFFENBACH Germany Kaiserstraße 108-112 tel. +49 69.82.97.55.0 fax +49 69.82.97.55.60 www.messe-offenbach.de info@messe-offenbach.de pag. 161

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CALPIERRE s.r.l. Calzaturificio 80025 CASANDRINO NA Italy V.le Olimpico 5 tel. +39 081.505.55.89 fax +39 081.505.14.97 www.calpierre.it calpierre@calpierre.it pag. III cover

IMAC S.p.A. 63010 MONTEFIORE DELL’ASO AP Italy Via Menocchia 27 tel. +39 0734.938.721 fax +39 0734.938.223 www.imacspa.com - info@imac-italia.it pag. Sottocover

ARCADIA s.r.l. 64013 CORROPOLI TE Italy Via delle Industrie 13 tel. +39 0861.83.275 fax +39 0861.83.276 www.arcadiabags.it - info@arcadiabags.it pag. 43 ARTIOLI - Calzaturificio STAR S.p.A. 21049 TRADATE VA Italy Via Oslavia 3 tel. +39 0331.841.322 fax +39 0331.844.564 www.artioli.com info@artioli.com pag. 18-19 ARZANA VENETO - TAG s.r.l. 37122 VERONA VR Italy Via Ponte Cittadella 3 tel. +39 045.894.43.99 www.arsenaleveneto.com info@arsenaleveneto.it pag. 23

COUROMODA FEIRAS COMERCIAIS LTDA. 01411-001 SÃO PAULO (SP) Brazil Rua Padre João Manuel 923 - 6° andar tel. +55 11.389.761.00 fax +55 11.389.761.61 www.couromoda.com international@couromoda.com.br pag. 142 EXPO RIVA SCHUH - RIVA DEL GARDA FIERECONGRESSI S.p.A. 38066 RIVA DEL GARDA TN Italy Parco Lido tel. +39 0464.520.000 fax +39 0464.555.255 www.exporivaschuh.it info@exporivaschuh.it pag. 51 FALC S.p.A. 62012 CIVITANOVA MARCHE MC Italy C.da San Domenico 24 tel. +39 0733.79.091 fax +39 0733.890.753 www.falc.biz info@falc.biz pag. 39

ASSIA TREND s.r.l. 63822 PORTO SAN GIORGIO FM Italy Via Fossaceca 33 tel. +39 0734.675.942 fax +39 0734.672.395 www.assiatrend.it info@assiatrend.it pag. 162

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BLUE STAR s.r.l. 63812 MONTEGRANARO FM Italy Via Fiume Snc - Z.i. Mezzina tel. +39 0734.896.140 fax +39 0734.88.534 www.lucaguerrini.com info@lucaguerrini.com pag. 49

FRATELLI VANNI Calzaturificio s.r.l. 56020 SANTA MARIA A MONTE PI Italy Via Giacomo Brodolini 5/A tel. +39 0587.707.213 fax +39 0587.705.070 info@fratellivanni.it pag. 14-15

192 af mag

LIU JO - ELI s.r.l. 62012 CIVITANOVA MARCHE MC Italy Via Gobetti 118 tel. +39 0733.026.400 www.liujo.com - info@liujoshoes.it pag. IV sottocover ROMIT S.p.A. 63014 MONTEGRANARO FM Italy Via delle Fontanelle 13 tel. +39 0734.886.70 - fax +39 0734.890.000 www.romit.it - info@romit.it pag. 53 SAPICA - CICEG (CAMARA DE LA INDUSTRIA DEL CALZADO DEL ESTADO DE GUANAJUATO) 37290 LEON GTO Mexico Blvd. A. López Mateos, 3401 Ote. - Fracc. Julián de Obregón tel. +52 477.152.90.00 fax +52 477.152.90.05-152.90.80 www.sapica.com - info@sapica.com pag. 54-55 THE ONE MILANO 20145 MILANO MI Italy Via Alberto Riva Villasanta 3 tel. +39 02.760.033.15/29/05 fax +39 02.760.220.24 www.theonemilano.com info@theonemilano.com pag. 193 WORTMANN KG 32758 DETMOLD Germany Klingenbergstrasse 1-3 tel. +49 5231.605.222 fax +49 5231.605.51.46 www.wortmann.com - info@wortmann.com pag. 58 ZANI MARCELLO s.r.l. 50054 FUCECCHIO FI Italy Via Cristoforo Colombo 86 tel. +39 0571.214.07 www.marcellozani.it - sabrina@marcellozani.it pag. 57


MIFUR_THE_ONE


E ASTL AB_L IU JO


@fashioncartoonist

194

by Matteo Sessa Vitali

I AM THE #INFLUENCER! EVERYONE #LOVES ME

AND YET NOW THEY ARE ALREADY SAYING THAT I AM #IRRELEVANT...

AT LEAST I HEAR SOME OF MY FAVORITE BRANDS WILL JOIN ME HERE SOON

GUYS, MEET THE INFLUENCER, SHE’S NEW / IT’S: #INFLUENCER... / OOH! BUT SHE’S SO YOUNG!

I’M RUNWAY SHOW. EVERYONE TALKED ABOUT ME...

...UNTIL YOU CAME ALONG!!!

AND THOSE ARE DEPARTMENT STORE AND FASHION MAGAZINE

REMEMBER HOW MANY CUSTOMERS I USED TO SEND TO YOU?

PFF... UNTIL YOU STARTED TO FLIRT WITH THAT ECOM DUDE...

REMEMBER WHEN THEY STILL BUILT STORES, INSTEAD OF JUST WEBSITES?...


CALPIERRE


See you at

#micam #micamtales FW 2021-2022 February 21-24, 2021 Fiera Milano RHO, Italy

milano.themicam.com info@themicam.com tel. +39 02 438291


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