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Once upon a tide The storied history of Palau sees it top our hot list for 2026

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ISSUE 11

E L E V AT E Y O U R E S C A P E

JANUARY – MARCH 2026

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DR EAM BY L U X U RY E S CA P ES

THE LUX FILES 24

What does London sound like? With event travel bigger than ever, we dive into the city’s music scene with an expert.

A pixellated pursuit in Paris

Canggu in Bali is now Flavour Town

How chasing down secret street art can give you a different view of a city.

How the food scene in this black-sand beach locale has blossomed in recent years.

NEW. NOW. NEXT

Quito was recently recognised by UNESCO for its wellpreserved city centre.

Cover image Palau. Photo: @SaltyLuxe

DRE A M BY L U X U RY ES CA P ES

Alba Thermal Springs & Spa is bringing some hot new accommodation to Victoria.

Page 56

Firing up on the Avenue of Volcanoes

Mornington Peninsula’s new bathing beauty

Going your own way in the Whitsundays Bareboating with Portland Roads and a stay at Yangaro show two sides of paradise.

Contents

JAN UARY – M ARC H 2 0 2 6

The Luxury Escapes insider guide to California The best drinking, dining, sleeping and fun in America’s “Golden State”.

Travel writers’ top picks on where to go in 2026

Our trusted stable of content specialists on where they think we should be travelling to next.

The more adventurous side of the Maldives

A unique luxury stay on Lombok will have you feeling like an international super spy.

106

Learning to surf and swimming with manta rays at Niyama and Avani Fares resorts.

Managing Editor Paul Chai Creative Lead Natalie Meneghetti Content Manager Stephanie Mikkelsen

Walking hand in hand with the past Vienna is a town best explored on foot, unlocking some of the city’s incredible history.

HERE & FAR

Editorial Head of Content Penny Cordner-Maas

The villa that was inspired by James Bond

Contributing writers Nate Robinson, Adam Schwab, Conor Walsh, Helena Melton, Cheyenne Bradley Design team Elise Ackland, Audrey Campkin-Smith, Nathan Pascual, Veronica Sam

For all editorial enquiries, contact editorial@luxuryescapes.com

Advertising GM Media & Brand Partnerships Matt Bailey

Strategic Partnerships Leader Chris Neill

Tourism Boards Partnerships Manager Jodie Collins

Partnerships Manager Michael Grenenger

Strategic Partnerships Executive Annika Rothschild For all advertising enquiries, contact mediasales@luxuryescapes.com

Luxury Escapes CEO and Co-founder Adam Schwab

Chief Marketing Officer Ben Connell

Dream by Luxury Escapes is published by Luxury Escapes (ACN 150 650 927), Level 4, 68 Clarke Street, Southbank, VIC 3006. Ph: 1300 88 99 00. Printed in partnership with Invicium print management company.

DESTINATION DEEP DIVES

Page 77

DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

Do more dreaming online Be inspired by wanderlustworthy destinations, travellers’ tales and the latest travel trends online at Dream by Luxury Escapes.

From the Luxury Escapes CEO

luxuryescapes.com/inspiration

The business class so good it’s hard to get off the plane

Our list of upgrades that are totally worth the money

Also catch us at:

@luxury.escapes facebook.com/luxuryescapes youtube.com/luxuryescapes @luxury.escapes

What travel are you planning to do in 2026? We talk to our members every year to try to make sure we are delivering the escapes that they want, and the value that they look for. We found that Australians desire for travel remains extremely high. A remarkable 98 per cent of travellers who holidayed in the past 12 months are ready to go again in 2026 with Bali, Thailand and Vietnam topping the list for value-for-money luxury holidays. We also saw that there are some “dark horse” destinations on the rise with South Korea seeing a huge surge in interest and over cover star Palau – what I like to call a mini Maldives right on our doorstop – ready to have its time in the sun in 2026. To this end, this issue we asked our regular contributors what their top “underdog” destinations were for the next 12 months (“Almost famous”, page 78). Palau topped the

list but there were some other surprises as well. For our members, the Maldives remains the number one destination for those chasing all-inclusive ultimate indulgence, so this issue we sent writer Matt Shea to a more active pair of resorts where he learned to surf and swam with giant manta rays (“Adventure islands”, page 98) Multi-generational travel is also big among our members’ travel goals, so renting homes and villas is going to be a big travel trend in 2026. In our story (“Licence to chill”, page 98) we check out a Lombok villa inspired by fictional superspy James Bond. For a bit of fun, we also asked our members who they would most like to sit next to on a long-haul flight, with Chris Hemsworth, Keanu Reeves and Taylor Swift topping the list. Keep an eye out next time you are heading off on your travels.

Adam Schwab CEO and Co-founder Luxury Escapes

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THE LUX FILES

Shining a light on the new, the next, the people and the places you need to know about. Chiang Mai umbrella painting, page 56.

18 / Exploring the volcanoes and churches of Quito

26 / Chasing street-art aliens in the alleyways of Paris

46 / A 24-hour “snackover” in the Lion City

62 / Bareboating and rock art in the Whitsundays

THE LU X FI LES N EW & NE X T

N E E D TO KN OW

TH E RESTAURANT

AN ABSOLUTE GUNN The rejuvenation of Melbourne’s CBD continues at a pace with the new Rodd & Gunn complex.

The New Zealand luxury brand has opened a four-storey complex at 280 Little Collins Street. The basement holds the Cellar Caffetteria, a casual wine store and bar, there’s a street level retail store and the cherry on top is the Member’s Bar and The Lodge Dining Room. The space was previously David Jones’ menswear store, and it retains some of the Art-Deco tiling, but it has had a full Kiwi takeover with slick floor staff, cracking sommeliers and as much local produce as possible from the Land of the Long White Cloud. Start in the Member’s Bar for some serious martini action with a Moreton Bay, Central Otago’s Scapegrace Little Ridge

aged vodka, NZ seaweed salt and coastal vermouth; it’s like a slap in the face from a South Island wave. In The Lodge Dining Room even the bread is an event with brioche coming coated in a caramel made by reducing vegetable stock for five days; plates are stunning with fresh tomatoes circling my smoked Victorian eel parfait like colourful maypole dancers; a main of roasted grouper and seafood looks like a Mondrian painting but the cool geometry of the plating is backed up by intense flavours. Every sauce here is too good to not use the bread to finish. A huge style injection into the CBD.

roddandgunn.com

DOUBLE WHAMMY

TH E BAG

In a historic first, two Silversea sister ships have sailed into Melbourne together to kick off cruising season.

SUCCESS BY DESIGN From first designing a phone case to must-have luxury handbags, MAISON de SABRÉ has come a long way. The design journey to create MAISON de SABRÉ’s it-bag The Palais is nothing short of obsessive: the shape was fashioned as a wooden sculpture, 3D-scanned and hand moulded; the product is road tested and the outcome is roomy, practical and beautiful. The Palais is the most premium handbag that MAISON de SABRÉ has ever created. “The Palais is the most significant milestone in our craft language — an icon of the unconventional,” says co-founder and creative director Omar Sabré. “It’s the purest distillation of our brand codes, carrying eight years of discipline, refinement and ambition into one silhouette.”

The Palais; from $149–$949; maisondesabre.com

SPIN CITY Previously garden-party bar, Madame Brussels, this city rooftop has been transformed into Japanese diner Disuko.

T H E BA R

D R E A M BY L U X U RY ES CA P ES

Creating a spectacle at sea, Silver Moon and Silver Nova cruised into Melbourne’s Station Pier together for the first time ever to start the cruising season. For Silver Moon, a small ship with all-suite accommodations and capacity to host 596 guests, this is her inaugural journey to Australia. Silver Moon also features Silversea’s S.A.L.T. (Sea and Land Taste) culinary programme, connecting guests to the essence of each destination through cuisine, expert-led classes, and destination-based food experiences. Silver Nova, launched in 2023, features an innovative asymmetrical design that maximises ocean views and natural light and can play host to 728 guests.

silversea.com

T HE SHIP S

This Melbourne rooftop has swapped plastic lawns for acres of vintage vinyl as Disuko – Japanese for “disco” – seeks to channel the spirit of 1980s Tokyo. “Disuko is our way of bringing a slice of Shibuya life to Melbourne, think neon, nostalgia, and nothing but good times,” says Thai Ho, CEO and director of MAMAS Dining Group which also owns venues Hochi Mama and Suzie Q. “We wanted to create a space where the disco era of 1980s Tokyo can live again, but this time, with a distinctively Melbourne heartbeat.”

A huge eight-metre long bar dispenses Japanese-inspired cocktails like a Ginza Girl with red shiso-infused Grey Goose vodka and sake or a Hana Nashi with Roku gin and fresh nashi pear. Food features smoky snacks straight off the hibachi grill, as well as next-level nigiri and a new addition to Melbourne’s growing list of sandwich legends: the fillet-o-ebi sando, with fried prawn, prawn mousse and a Japanese take on tartare sauce.

disuko.com.au

From Sisterfields to Estia:

Designing Hospitality, Not Just Venues. Adam McAsey is the quiet force behind some of Bali’s most recognisable dining destinations. As founder and director of 8 Degree Projects, he’s built beloved brands like Sisterfields, Bossman Burger, Fu House, and Estia. Shaped by Melbourne’s food scene, Adam’s work centres on a simple idea: create places people return to through intentional design, genuine hospitality, and spaces that feel lived-in and authentic. 8 Degree Projects is defined less by its scale and more by its ethos. The group is known for hospitality that feels warm, unforced and consistently on point across every venue. Its team is tight-knit and genuinely guest-focused — the kind of crew that shapes the vibe as much as the design or the menu. The goal is simple: create spaces that bring people together, built for food lovers and driven by passion.

THE LU X FI LES G R AN D O P E NING S

H OTE L N E W S

The latest and hottest hotel and resort openings to get on your radar Amanvari

METT Singapore Flanked by spice gardens, tall palms and sultan’s tombs, METT Singapore was originally built to house British Far East Command HQ during World War 2. The heritage-listed property is home to just 84 light-filled suites, with a Fort Canning Park location that’s minutes away from Orchard Road yet worlds away from the action. Two outdoor pools are backed by L’Amo Bistrò del Mare, the hotel’s love letter to Italy’s legendary coastal dining scene.

D R E A M BY L U X U RY ES CA P ES

A MA NVA R I

One&Only Moonlight Basin Big Sky, small footprint: with less than a hundred guest rooms, suites and private villas, One&Only Moonlight Basin brings romantic luxury to the slopes of one of the world’s best ski destinations. An hour’s drive north of Yellowstone National Park, this Montana resort is set to feature a state-of-the-art spa and a separate lodge and gondola, promising unrivalled access to Big Sky’s 5,800 acres of skiable terrain. Opportunities for après ski abound: bootlegger-inspired bar Dear Josephine brings moonshine and whiskeys barrel-aged inhouse, while The Landing offers extraordinary views over Montana’s rambling Spanish Peaks.

O N E&ONLY MO ONLIGHT BAS IN

Nine pool villas and three suites are linked by lantern paths as antelope, elephants and leopards meander below; access to Zambia’s Kafue National Park and one of Africa’s richest ecosystems – plus a dining program that’s big on wilderness picnics, bush lunches and river cruises – means there’s no shortage of extraordinary experiences available.

WA LD OR F ASTO R I A SH AN G H AI Q I AN TAN

Waldorf Astoria Shanghai Qiantan Hot on the heels of the grand reopening of Waldorf Astoria New York, the brand’s newest offering – the third in Shanghai – easily holds its own. Overlooking the lazy waters of the Huangpu River and Qiantan Youcheng Park’s waterfront promenade, the hotel delivers Waldorf Astoria’s legendary elegance in abundance, with decor inspired by the city’s Art Deco heritage and a riverside spin on New York’s iconic Peacock Alley.

WORDS: NATE ROBINSON.

METT SINGAPORE

Anantara Kafue River Tented Camp Elevated high above the Kafue River on rosewood platforms, Anantara’s first tented safari camp brings spectacle in spades.

With just eighteen keys and a prime position on Baja California, Mexico’s untouched East Cape, Aman’s newest retreat rests at the crossroads between beachfront, desert and river estuary. Everything follows from the location, with internal courtyards and lounges, expansive floor-to-ceiling glass walls and clever blocking embodying Aman’s avowed commitment to privacy and exclusivity in the world’s most spectacular destinations. Wellness offerings include a contemporary spin on the traditional temazcal (sweat lodge) and an open-air yoga pavilion.

A NA NTA R A KA FU E R I V E R TE N TE D CAM P

WOODFIRE

GREEK

www.estiabali.com

WOOD FIRED, THAI INSPIRED.

www.fuhousebali.com

THE LU X FI LES THE HE IG H T O F L U X U RY

P E RTH

The swirling seas of Perth’s city beaches are a huge draw for travellers. Photo: Overview

W E STE RN AU STR AL I A

DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

THE LU X FI LES T W I N TOW NS

STAY

Fable Dunedin EAT

Titi Just like the mutton bird it’s named for, this restaurant travels far and wide for inspiration. Dishes are bold, inventive and anchored in the seasons, with fresh Kiwi ingredients taking centre stage. The vibe is casual yet polished, with a la carte or tasting options available.

D R INK

No8 Distillery No8 Distillery makes whisky, gin and vodka using local botanicals and careful craft. Tours are informative, tastings lively and the small-batch spirits pack real punch. A must for enthusiasts and casual sippers alike.

Housed in a Victorian-era building, this boutique escape is an elegant base for exploring. There are 50 rooms and two plush suites, with hints of tartan to nod to the city’s heritage. Moody restaurant The Press Club, once a haunt of editors and publishers, is open for all-day dining.

Two cities divided by oceans but united by attitude. One basks in centuries of tradition, the other in the energy of reinvention. Both wear their Scottish roots like a tartan sash, but Edinburgh sips whisky while Dunedin chases coffee and penguins. These cousins may be split across hemispheres, but their swagger is clearly genetic.

WALK

Street Art Trail Easy to explore, this trail shows off Dunedin’s creative clout; the city has been a UNESCO Creative City since 2014. Start in the Octagon and make your way towards Police Street, weaving up and down the grid to see a mix of large-scale murals and striking installations.

The Dunedin Museum of Natural Mystery A small, quirky museum chronicling local history, cultural trinkets and macabre curiosities. Housed in a private home, the galleries display relics, artefacts and even bone sculptures collected across owner Bruce Mahalski’s lifetime.

Dunedin

Dunedin’s got Scottish roots, Kiwi soul and a streak that’s pure South Island. Once shaped by settlers and gold, it’s now driven by students, artists and innovators in a collision of intellect and adventure. From boutique breweries to bracing hikes, this city may not be trying to impress, yet it absolutely does. Whether you come for wildlife or whisky, Dunedin proves cool doesn’t have to shout.

DU D/E DI

Edinburgh A city that balances brains, beauty and a wicked sense of humour. It’s the birthplace of Conan Doyle’s logic and Connery’s effortless cool, where grandeur and grit mingle in the streets and the skyline alone could sell postcards. Between the Gothic spires and Georgian confidence, there’s a festival for everything and a dram for every mood. Embrace the contrasts, the banter and the theatrics.

EAT

eòrna A quiet show-off: minimal space, maximum flavour. One of the city’s most intimate fine-dining spots, with just 12 seats and two people working – one chef and one sommelier. Seasonal Scottish produce is the focus, plated with finesse not fuss – think Highland venison, East Neuk lobster and Orkney mackerel.

DR I NK

Port of Leith Distillery Take sips to new heights at Edinburgh’s first vertical distillery, a 40-metre tower in the revitalised port district of Leith. Tasting tours see visitors traipse across all nine storeys, while the top-floor bar serves whiskies, cocktails, small plates and a stellar view of the docks and city.

WAL K

WORDS: STEPHANIE MIKKELSEN IMAGES: IMAGODENS - STOCK.ADOBE.COM CHRIS2766 – STOCK.ADOBE.COM

The Royal Mile Edinburgh’s spine is historic, hectic and impossible to resist. It links the castle to Holyrood, lined with shops, pubs and centuries of gossip. At least one lap is essential to get the city’s rhythm. STAY

Kimpton Charlotte Square With the looks of Georgian glamour and all the modcons well-heeled travellers could wish for, this upscale hotel feels smart not stuffy. Its location near the National Galleries of Scotland and Edinburgh Castle makes sightseeing a cinch. A pretty inner courtyard, Middle Eastern restaurant and indoor pool round out the amenities.

Islander Edinburgh Workshop Move over magnets. This hands-on session sees budding artisans leave with their own customised Islander Harris Tweed handbag, the ultimate Scottish souvenir. Workshops run daily, and participants can choose their base colour, Harris Tweed cloth lid and decorative strap.

DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

THE LU X FI LES WAY FI N D E R

Q U I TO

Quito is one of the highest cities in the world and is a heady mix of churches, monasteries and fiery volcanoes. UNESCO also recently recognised it for having the best-preserved historic centre in Latin America. Mark Daffey explores the streets of this town of contrasts.

IMAGES: FABRICIO BURBANO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM. MARK PITT IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM.

For the lava god

E C UAD O R

If the numbers are anything to go by, the Catholic missionaries who tailed the Spanish conquistadors into Ecuador sure managed to leave an imprint. Quito, the country’s equatorial capital with a population of just under three million people, has 24 churches spread around the city centre. Search a little harder, though, and you’ll find another six chapels, seven convents and six monasteries, as well as an oversized statue of the Virgin Mary on a hillside. Made from aluminium sheeting, she has angel’s wings attached.

One of those six monasteries dominates the view outside my room at the Casa Gangotena, a 17th-century residential mansion since converted into Quito’s only Relais & Châteaux hotel. Hovering like a ghostly shroud above the city’s terracotta-tiled rooftops is Cayambe, a simmering volcano whose glaciated peak reaches a height of 5790 metres. As far as cityscapes go here, this one couldn’t be more typical – a menacing volcano rising above a religious edifice. It’s not too much of a stretch to think of them as earthly manifestations of heaven and hell.

OPPOSITE: Cotopaxi, one of the active volcanoes in the Andes Mountains near Quito. It is the second-highest summit in the country. THIS PAGE FROM TOP: the interior of the Church of the Society of Jesus (Iglesia de La Compañía de Jesús) in Quito; the Virgin of El Panecillo on the top of El Panecillo in Quito. DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

WAY FI N D E R

climbs the slopes of Pichincha, a craggy stratovolcano that covered the streets in ash when it last erupted in 1999, arrives at a lookout point with views that are guaranteed to take your breath away… literally. At 2800 metres above sea level, Quito is one of the highest major cities in the world. Don’t be surprised if you feel a little light-headed or short of breath in the early days. It’s completely normal.

Volcanoes are everywhere They may not be smouldering nor steaming. And they may, in fact, look like ordinary hills. But volcanoes, they are, for Ecuador has one of the richest concentrations of volcanoes on Earth. The highest is Chimborazo. At 6200 metres, it guards the southern end of a valley that German explorer Alexander Humboldt dubbed the “Avenue of Volcanoes”. At the opposite extremity is Imbabura. By Andean standards, it’s a comparative minnow at 4600 metres. Quito is in the middle, straddling a saddle linking Pichincha with Antisana. But while volcanoes may be ever-present here, it’s Quito’s churches and religious buildings that connect its main sights. The monastery opposite my hotel was the first to be built, just three years after the city was founded on a fortified Inca settlement in 1534. Dedicated to Saint Francis of Assisi, it contains a central basilica, three chapels and myriad artworks. The fountain in the cobbled square out front once supplied the city with water. It’s now a popular meeting place for evening and weekend strolls, when every city resident seems to be out and about enjoying its rarified air.

FROM TOP: the streets of Quito; volcanoes are everywhere; Plaza de San Francisco in the Historic Centre of Quito with the Basilica and Convent of San Francisco, one of the oldest and most significant religious complexes in the Americas.

IMAGES: ATOSAN – STOCK.ADOBE.COM. AMPUEROLEONARDO VIA GETTY IMAGES

Of course, there’s more to see in Quito than just churches or volcanoes. The museum complex that’s collectively known as the House of Culture showcases historical artworks, artefacts and musical instruments from different regions. Just beyond the city centre, La Ronda is a picturesque neighbourhood whose cafés, restaurants and nightlife attract an energetic clientele. Numerous markets around town are colourful, aromatic and lively. And a cable car that

E C UAD O R

I take my queue from the locals, setting out from my hotel on foot, knowing that the altitude will likely leave me gasping for air. From the Plaza de San Francisco, I walk to a square that’s named after the Catholic priest who founded the Dominican Order. Like the basilica in the Plaza de San Francisco, the church dome and belltower at Saint Dominic’s blend European and indigenous influences. A statue outside honours Antonio José de Sucre, the Venezuelan General who led the fight for independence alongside his good friend, Simón Bolivar. Fittingly, my next stop is in the park gardens of Independence Square, where I find a bench seat to catch my breath while I watch children kicking soccer balls and elderly men sharing bags of nuts. Considered to be the heart of what UNESCO labels the

“best preserved, least altered city centre in Latin America”, it’s where politicians inevitably rub shoulders with the clergy. The Presidential palace and Archbishop’s residence face out over the gardens, opposite the town hall and city cathedral. One block away is Quito’s monumental masterpiece. Colloquially known as the “Golden Church”, the gilded naves inside the Church of the Society of Jesus, or La Compañía, sparkle in the warmth of flickering candles. A stairway behind the altar leads me to a dome that’s decorated with portraits of cardinals, angels and prophets. Outside the dome is a rooftop terrace with views across the city, where I attempt to tally the number of belltowers and steeples piercing the sky. In the end, I give up, placing my faith in the numbers.

Tour South America with us Beautiful people and equally stunning scenery, colour and culture - expect nothing else on Rio’s gorgeous beaches, your launch pad to a South American tour through vibrant capitals, national parks, and the Inca heart of Peru before finishing up in Quito. You’ll even learn how to mix the perfect caipirinha and pisco sour.

IMAGES: MRALLEN – STOCK.ADOBE.COM. JON CHICA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

CASA G AN GOTE NA In Quito’s enchanting Old Town, Casa Gangotena is a restored mansion offering easy access to the city’s UNESCO World Heritage treasures from a comfortable base.

FROM TOP: La Compañía, in Quito is renowned for its ornate Baroque architecture and lavish use of gold leaf; the historic center of Quito, Ecuador, a UNESCO World Heritage site; locals in Quito.

DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

THE LU X FI LES O N TH E R E C O R D

What does

LONDON

sound like?

Whether it’s a rock gig on LA’s Sunset Strip, listening bars in Japan or trying your luck at Berghain in Berlin, the local music scene can help you get in tune with a destination. Each issue we check in with a music professional– this issue a masterclass in British music from DJ Lou Hayter at Hidden Grooves HiFi Lounge.

In the heart of Shoreditch, London, you’ll find a love letter to the UK capital and Virgin Records music. The Hidden Grooves HiFi Lounge at the Virgin Hotel London-Shoreditch is as intimate as a Japanese listening bar, and as cosy as a 1970s living room. Within the warm space is a DJ booth, a stylish cocktail bar and listening stations that are a throwback to the early days of Virgin Records, who signed everyone from The Rolling Stones to the Spice Girls. The 5,000 vinyls, which line the walls, will fill you with warm memories, while

the crafted cocktails will help you create many more. Neil Aline, Corporate Director of Entertainment for Virgin Hotels, reveals how they curated such an enviable vinyl collection: “The Hidden Grooves vinyl collection is the result of a year’s worth of dedicated crate-digging, spanning record shops, dusty warehouses, basement stashes, auction houses, and more than a few swaps with fellow vinyl obsessives.” The team also asked former Virgin Megastores boss Sir Richard Branson to list

his 20 must-have vinyls, which can now be found in a dedicated crate next to each of the bar’s listening stations. Like the music, the cocktails don’t disappoint. Each one is a riff on a legendary Virgin Records album. “You don’t need to be a total music nerd to enjoy it, but if you are, you’ll certainly spot the layers,” Neil says. “The most popular tipple is the Punk Punch, a spicy margarita that is the perfect match for the defiant spirit of the Sex Pistols’ iconic 1970s album God Save the Queen.”

LO N D O N

Hidden Grooves Luxury Escapes playlist

What is special about London’s music scene? Musician and DJ Lou Hayter, who creates the soundtrack to the Hidden Grooves HiFi Lounge, says: “It attracts the best musicians, DJs and producers and that level of quality feeds back into the scene and it constantly evolves. Everyone is always pushing each other to make better and better things. It’s also very multicultural so you can hear music from all over the world, and it becomes a melting pot.”

Hayter reveals how she collated this playlist. “It includes iconic London artists from past and present. I think they’re all timeless classics and make me feel a certain mood that encapsulates the vibe and energy of London that I love so much. I grew up here, and some were the sound of my childhood like Soul II Soul, then records like Hyph Mngo [by Joy Orbison] have become modern-day classics.”

Hyph Mngo Joy Orbison

Fairplay Soul II Soul

What do you love about music? “I love that I can disappear into different worlds and there are endless possibilities when I’m making music. Music isn’t really a tangible thing. It’s just sound vibrations which is what’s magical about it. It also complements all the different moods that you experience as a human being, like to party, to relax, and it augments your daily life. I also love that it brings people together to bond over the music they like; I meet so many amazing people all the time because of music.”

Cherry Pie Sade

Woman Little Simz

Higher Sault

Wildfire Subtrkt

Shimmer

Fabiana Palladino

West End Girls Pet Shop Boys

WORDS: CLAIRE TURRELL

Where else can you experience London’s music scene? “I guess London’s music scene can be found all over because people are paying attention to it globally. But there are sounds that I associate with growing up in London like Soul II Soul or Sade and there’s something really special about hearing them in this city at Notting Hill Carnival or blaring out of a car window in the summer.”

Tuesday Tyson

Sharpness Jamie Woon

Listen to Hidden Groove’s playlist now

DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

THE LU X FI LES WAY FI N D E R

Pixel pursuit PA R I S

A secret art movement in the streets of Paris sees Stephanie Mikkelsen foregoing the obvious attractions for the city’s back alleys and cul de sacs as she searches for hidden artworks. And what she finds is a new kind of holiday that swaps sightseeing for sleuthing.

IMAGES: (LEFT) ANDREI ANTIPOV – STOCK.ADOBE.COM, (RIGHT, TOP TO BOTTOM) ANDREI ANTIPOV/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM, NORDANTIN – STOCK.ADOBE.COM

PARI S

I don’t mean to get hooked. I’m in Paris’ Marais for the food: the croissants, the falafel, the smug joy of pretending to be a local when another tourist asks for directions. But halfway through a food tour, our guide, Sasha, stops us at a nondescript corner opposite the Centre Pompidou. She points up a wall. “Look, an Invader.” High above eye level, a tiny mosaic alien grins down. It looks like something from an eighties arcade game – a distant cousin of Pac-Man, pixelated with big square eyes and too many limbs. Sasha explains that a French street artist, known only as Invader, has scattered thousands of these mosaics across Paris. What began as an art project has morphed into a global game: collect Invaders, earn points, claim glory. That’s all I need to hear. I download the FlashInvaders app immediately. The rules are simple: take a photo of an Invader, the app checks if it’s real, and if it is, you score points. Each confirmed find comes with a satisfying arcade-style bleep, like levelling up in a game. It’s competitive sightseeing for people who can’t stand queues. Basically, urban I Spy – but with bragging rights. The leaderboard, the dopamine hits, the little bursts of victory noise. It’s sightseeing with stakes. As we continue the tour, my attention drifts from patisseries to plaster. I’m desperate for my first proper find. That evening, I spot three on the walk home. The next morning, I take the long way to the boulangerie – purely in the name of art, of course. By day three, I’m not looking at monuments anymore. I’m looking at everything else: alleyways, rooftops, drainpipes. The Eiffel Tower can wait.

Once I see one, I can’t stop. I lurk in the app’s live feed to scope out my competition and get an edge on where my next catch may be. They’re everywhere: above doorways, on bridges, next to street signs. Some bright, some barely hanging on. It’s like discovering a secret layer of the city hiding in plain sight. Not every find counts, however. There are fakes, copies, broken mosaics the app won’t recognise. The real skill is in spotting the authentic ones – and snapping a photo clear enough for the app to confirm it. Easier said than done. Some are too high; others tucked into impossible corners. And lately, the aliens have company, as other artists piggyback on the trend. Among my finds are a tiled Mona Lisa, Alice from Alice in Wonderland, and Princess Leia. One of my last Paris Invaders comes from a moving car on the way to Gare Montparnasse. I press my phone to the window, trying to avoid smudges as the driver crawls through traffic. The lights turn red and I know this is my shot. Two blurry duds, then finally a perfect capture. The app bleeps its approval. Another 30 points, the perfect parting gift.

THIS SPREAD: the street artist known as Invader has covered the streets of Paris, and the world, in hidden pixelated artworks.

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WAY FI N D E R

Leaving Paris doesn’t mean game over. The project has grown beyond its Paris roots, now spanning Europe and even further, from Seoul to São Paulo. It’s part street art, part global scavenger hunt. My next stop is Aix-en-Provence. On my first morning, I skip the pistachio artisans and fancy boutiques, and head straight into the old town’s sunlit maze of alleys and shuttered windows. I drag my fiancé and brother along, shamelessly exploiting their extra pairs of eyes. They grumble but secretly enjoy it – especially when they point out one I’ve walked past twice. There’s something addictive about the pattern of it all: the searching, the scanning, the sudden thrill when the app confirms a hit. My score climbs. I’m absurdly pleased with myself. It’s not really about the points, though. It’s about how it changes the way I move through a place. I’m not ticking off attractions anymore – I’m poking into corners and culde-sacs I’d otherwise never see. Next comes London. Another city, another hunt. I arrive ready to roam, eyes darting upwards, downwards, everywhere. One afternoon in South Kensington, I spot a nearly faded Invader clinging to the gate of Kensington Gardens. Then a few minutes later, a plaque marking Alfred Hitchcock’s old house on Cromwell Road. A few streets further, wartime signs pointing to bomb

shelters. The Invaders reveal things I would otherwise have missed. The mosaics are more scattered here, but Mayfair and Soho are goldmines. Around Carnaby Street, I hit my stride, undeterred by the muggy London heat, and weave through the crowds, phone poised. Someone asks if I’m taking a photo of a Banksy. I tell them this is something better, because a photo of a Banksy has never earned me 50 points. I find myself staring behind drainpipes, doubling back down side streets, discovering corners that never make it into glossy travel guides. There’s satisfaction in the chase and a kind of comedy in it too – grown adults craning their necks for bits of tile. Now I catch myself judging future holidays by a new metric – whether the city’s been invaded yet. I come to Paris to eat. I leave London with 1760 points and a whole new way of seeing.

THIS PAGE, FROM TOP: French artist Invader invites travellers to see the city differently; the author on the hunt for artworks; the pixelated artworks are all over Paris and in 80-plus cities around the world.

IMAGES: (LEFT & BOTTOM) PHOTOLOREN – STOCK.ADOBE.COM. (LEFT) THAT FRENCH BLOKE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM. (RIGHT) ALINA ZAMOGILNYKH/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Better than a Banksy

PARI S

Space invader The anonymous French artist known only as Invader launched his first “invasion” in Paris in the late 1990s, swapping pixels for ceramic tiles and video screens for city walls. His aim, he explains on his website, was to “liberate art from its usual alienators – museums or institutions – and free the Space Invaders from their TV screens to bring them into our physical world.” Since then, his tiled aliens have multiplied – more than 4,800 mosaics now brighten 80-plus cities across the globe. “Anytime, anywhere,” he says, “is the philosophy”.

Join the invasion

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THE LU X FI LES O N E N IG H T IN

O NE NI G HT I N. . .

Palermo The capital of Sicily is a lot less slick than other major European cities but that is part of its appeal, with sunset aperitivo hour, serious street food and over 3,000 years of history, it’s ideal for nocturnal wanderings.

5pm On a string

Here’s your planner for a perfect night out in Palermo.

Clashing swords, suits of armour and a hand-cranked barrel piano: long before Netflix or even television, the good denizens of Sicily went to the teatro di pupi for their evening’s entertainment. From the early 1800s, these family-run theatres featured handmade puppets in stories of knights and damsels that played out over several months. Today, few puppet shows remain and they are recognised by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. Head to the Museo Internazionale delle Marionette Antonio Pasqualino, where a half-hour show featuring Orlando, Rinaldo and Angelica takes place at 5pm from Tuesday to Saturday. It’s loud, funny and in Italian, but you can’t help but be engrossed in the action.

PAL E RM O

6pm Aperitivo hour

7pm Walk of life

It’s aperitivo hour and there’s no better place to greet the setting of the sun than at La Terrazze del Sole. Located on the fifth floor of Hotel Palermo Quattro Canti, it overlooks the glowing Baroque domes that rise above the intersection of the city’s two main streets. Order an Aperol spritz – it’s the thing here – or a whisky sour and enjoy the vista.

No matter where you are in Italy, early evening involves a leisurely stroll, known as passeggiata. It’s about soaking in the surroundings, socialising, maybe stopping for a drink or a gelato. You’re already on the oldest street in the city, Via Vittorio Emanuele, so follow the crowds to the Palermo Cathedral, parts of which date back to the end of the 12th century. It’s closed to visitors after dark but is spectacularly lit up for all to savour.

8pm Local flavours Co-owner and chef Maria D’Asta describes Sardina PastaBar as a “contemporary Sicilian fish bistro with a feminine soul”. On a warm night, ask for a table on the street, where a staff member, led by the restaurant’s other owner, Rita Moro, will set you up with a menu using a QR code. This allows for daily changes, according to whatever’s fresh. Although not traditional dishes, options like tuna tataki with fried caciocavallo cheese and sweet and sour red onion or paccheri with swordfish, cherry tomatoes, eggplant, salted ricotta and mint do use the most popular local produce.

9:30pm Bar cultures Now’s the time to discover Palermo’s true personality. The pedestrian-only (well, apart from the scooters) streets are lined with tiny drinking spots, and people here tend to move around regularly from one spot to the next, and to talk more than they drink. Start somewhere like Via dei Credenzieri, where Dal Barone pops cushions on the high stone gutters and adds tiny tables so people can chill with glasses of natural wine. For cocktails, head to Minimarket Club Speakeasy, hidden within – you guessed it – a convenience store. Then there’s Ballarak, Palermo’s first and only craft brewery, set on the expanse of lawn known as Piazza Magione. It’s perfectly acceptable to take your glass of Sex Pils, the American-style pilsner dedicated to the Sex Pistols, and sit on the grass or the low stone wall.

IMAGES: SEAN PAVONE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM.

11pm Snack attack After a couple of glasses of wine or beer, you’ll likely want to find something else to eat. Luckily, street food is serious business here. Popular are panelle (chickpea fritters) and sfincione (a focaccia-like pizza topped with tomato, anchovies and cheese). If you really want to go full local, however, head to Antica Focacceria S. Francesco, which has been serving up pani câ mèusa, a sandwich of fried spleen and lung, since 1834. It’s an acquired taste, but one well suited to soaking up the evening’s libations before heading to bed. OPPOSITE: the sun sets on this historic capital. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: the bar culture; Palermo’s dining scene; puppet show; aperitivo hour.

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THE ADVENTURE OF YOUR dreams I N PARTNERSHIP W ITH

Western Australia is full of exciting experiences from getting up close and personal with gentle marine giants to getting a selfie with smiling marsupials. It doesn’t matter if you find wonder in the beauty of pristine beaches or get stirred by travelling through the red dust of the Australian outback, whether you love exploring cities or

N IN G A LO O R E E F | N Y I N G G U L U

wandering through rows of vines at a hillside winery. Western Australia has the holiday that you have been dreaming about.

K IN G S PA R K & B OTA N I C G A R D E N | K A A RTA KO O M BA

Ningaloo Reef: magical marine experiences This wondrous part of the state is home to Australia’s largest fringing reef and its famous residents, the almost-alien-looking gentle whale sharks (March to August). You can immerse yourself in this underwater dreamscape of coral gardens, rainbow-coloured fish and even humpback whales and manta rays. You can get starstruck on land, too, by the incredible coastal beauty of Cape Range National Park where you can hike across the rugged limestone ranges or try to spot some of the wildlife including emus, echidnas and black-flanked rock wallabies. NING ALO O R E E F | N Y I N G G U L U

Perth: urban exploration Perth / Boorloo locals love a sunset and one of the best places to see the sun sink behind the Indian Ocean is Cottesloe Beach. You can set up a blanket on the grassy terraces and grab some fish and chips or grab a sundowner at the Cottesloe Beach Hotel. Fremantle / Walyalup was named Australia’s Top Tourism Town in 2025 for a reason. Packed with history, craft breweries and the almostconstant thrum of live music, Freo’s charming streets and laneways are a wonderland for lovers of the unexpected. Just out of the city, the Swan Valley has nearly two centuries of wine making traditions but you can also tour modern brewers and cider makers and explore the area in unusual ways like river cruises, kayaks or a limousine. At Kings Park and Botanic Garden / Kaarta Koomba in the city you can learn about the world’s oldest living culture on an authentic and very personal tour with In Culture Tours. Guests will hear first-person truth telling, engage with the local flora and hear Noongar Dreamtime stories. And you can always expect a smile from the cheeky quokkas on Rottnest Island / Wadjemup. CA P E TO CA P E T R AC K , M A RG A R E T R I V E R R E G I O N

The Kimberley: wild wonders Broome / Rubibi is where the outback meets the ocean and where you are invited to open your soul to one of the most spiritual places in Australia. Take the famous camel ride against a sunset that stretches right across the ocean and uncover dinosaur footprints forever preserved in red rock. At the eastern gateway of Kununurra / Goonoonoorrang you can explore one of the largest lakes in the southern hemisphere, Lake Argyle, or take on the iconic Gibb River Road for a romantic outback adventure.

Margaret River Region: vine and dine indulgence This area of Western Australia is made up of otherworldly contrasts where you can be floating in the Indian Ocean on the ruggedly beautiful coast one minute and sitting in one of the world’s finest wineries sipping top drops the next minute, all within a short drive. This is the home of the Cape to Cape Track where you can hike through blooming wildflowers and scan the horizon for breaching humpback whales. You can stand on the famous Busselton Jetty / Undalup and feel completely surrounded by sky, or delve underground on a Ngilgi Cave Cultural Tour with Koomal Dreaming where you can hear ancient stories and the sound of didgeridoo echoing majestically thanks to the cave’s haunting acoustics.

L A KE A RGY LE , T HE KIMBER LEY

If you can dream it, you can do it in Western Australia

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THE LU X FI LES WAY FI N D E R

Making waves CANG G U

Much of the excitement in Canggu these days is away from the black sand of Echo Beach and in the kitchens of its thriving restaurants. Paul Chai dines out in this Balinese hotspot that is proving a big draw for food lovers from all over the world.

On my last visit to Canggu, almost a decade ago, most people here had an appetite for surfing, Old Mans was a quiet beach bar, not a party spot, and you came here to get away from the Bali traffic. Now, this beachside village is making a splash in the world of food with an outsized reputation for bang-on brunches, fabulous fine dining and a refined cocktail culture. If you wipeout in Canggu these days, it means you can’t squeeze in dessert. “There are so many things going on in Canggu right now, you can try a lot of different food,” says Yudha Permana, executive chef of MeiMei, one of Canggu’s shining lights. “The fact there is a lot of competition is good, but a lot of places do not know the local culture, they don’t know the people and that is important.” Yudha says that places like MeiMei that work collaboratively with local chefs and produce suppliers have the best chance of success. Join us for a taster of the exciting world of food in Canggu.

THIS SPREAD FROM LEFT: an aerial view of La Brisa beach club; the sultry surrounds of MeiMei restaurant, one of Canggu’s best; MeiMei’s signature fish in Jimbaran butter.

BAL I

MeiMei It’s fitting that when you walk into MeiMei the backlit vases and wooden cabinetry along the walls create an amber glow that resembles warm embers. MeiMei is all about wood-fire cooking, a technique familiar to executive chef Yudha Permana. “Balinese people love doing woodfire cooking at home,” Yudha says. “Twenty years ago, we had no gas, no stove and that’s my background and my specialty. At MeiMei we try to finish 70 per cent of our meals on the charcoal grill.” You can smell the grill as you walk in the low-lit space and there is plenty of spice heat on the Southeast Asian-inspired menu – a style Yudha describes as “punchy” (though a new MeiMei menu leans into more refreshing flavours). Punchy is right up my alley, so when handpicked crab opor (from Central Java) on toast gives me a spicy left hook it is a great start to proceedings. Cured fish in peanut nam jim keeps me on the ropes but it is the line-caught fish of the day in Jimbaran butter and sambal matah that is the knockout. “Our fishermen always bring us linecaught fish fresh every day so every day the fish that comes into MeiMei is different,” says Yudha. “Every single fish has a different characteristic and has a different way of cooking.”

The Jimbaran butter is inspired by this regional specialty where fish is simply cooked on the beach in a mix of soy, garlic, turmeric and oil. “Not everyone understands the woodfire,” says Yudha. “The secret is you need to make friends with the fire, you need to understand about the soul of the fire and that different charcoal and different wood all have different characteristics.”

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WAY FI N D E R

Longtime Located in nearby Berawa, Longtime is the work of Jordie Strybos and Pablo Fourcard, founders of Bali’s Milk and Madu groups along with Randa Assi. Longtime has a high wooden ceiling with diners seated under a Bacchanalian triptych where women cavort with tigers while balancing glasses of wine where Kim Kardashian balanced that famous Champagne glass. They are serious about cocktails, so when I order a Love You Later martini, a classic concoction with just a hint of green mango, I am impressed to get a half pour with a mini ice bucket and glass carafe holding the rest of my drink. The last time I was served a tini this way was in Musso & Frank Grill, the Hollywood legend, and it is even more

practical when you are in Bali’s tropical heat. The menu is playful, so a “fillet-o-fish” is a steamed bao filled with deep-fried scallop, tartare and a slice of American cheese, and a parcel of signature burrata comes swimming in chef Tyler’s housemade chilli crisp with roti to scoop it all up with. Mains, like a rich red curry of tiger prawns, also add extra oomph with a serve of prawn head oil.

BAL I

La Brisa Entering La Brisa, an ecologically friendly beach club right on the shores of Echo Beach, it feels a bit like walking into the Lost Boys camp in Peter Pan: hammocks are strung between swaying palms, fairy lights twinkle from almost every angle and wooden balconies seem to grow out of the foliage. Look closer and you see the nautical theme: framed photos of salty old

sea dogs, random wooden chests filled with seashells and fishing line, and walls covered with wooden oars and fishing nets. La Brisa means “the breeze”, and that is just what you get on a topside table looking over the black sandy shore. Cocktails lean into the regional warmth with a Tropical Harmony proving very moreish with vodka, lemon juice, yuzu, elderflower and pineapple; a Mango Coriander Sour sees tequila, mango liqueur, passionfruit and mango juice topped with fresh coriander. Poke bowls and salads get pride of place on a menu with a healthy vibe but I opt for a dark beer-battered fish and chips with burnt lemon and bitey tartare sauce, perfect for a lost beachside afternoon.

The Cali

THIS SPREAD FROM LEFT: seeing in the sunset from the Peter Pan-esque beach club La Brisa; the club’s pool; La Brisa is nauticual themed with portraits of salty old sea dogs; the cocktails are perfect for the tropics.

The Cali is a little slice of Palm Beach chic in the centre of Canggu, which makes it the perfect place to base yourself to explore the restaurants and bars of the area. The Cali villas are bleach-white, two-storey stays that channel the desert chic vibes of Coachella with breeze-block planters packed with cacti, vintage advertising prints and pink pool umbrellas. The main bedroom is downstairs with doors opening onto the private pool with a big pink double day bed; off the bedroom is a kitchen pre-filled with drinks and snacks, and a living space with coffee-table art books and Swinging Sixties-inspired bean-shaped couches and poufs. The best thing about The Cali is you step out the door and into Canggu’s food and drink playground. Turn left and you are a few minutes from Echo Beach and the party spots of Old Mans and Motel Mexicola; you can also walk to MeiMei and La Brisa, though Longtime is a bit further off so you will likely need a cab. When it comes to cafes you can’t go wrong with The Cali’s recommendation list with classics like Revolver (get the brekky burrito), now so famous it has outlets in Bali airport.

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THE LU X LI ST R ADI U S

There is a real joy to a centrally located hotel; a stay where you can drop your bags and walk to everything you need; where your entire weekend is contained in an easy-to-navigate radius.

Capella Taipei

The epicentre The position

Capella Taipei lies at the gateway to the Minsheng Community, which is filled with pocket parks, art galleries and thirdculture cafes. The Minsheng Community first made a splash when it launched in the 1960s and took modern America as its inspiration. Now those leafy tree-lined lanes are hip once more as Minsheng is attracting a new generation of Taiwanese tastemakers.

Capella Taipei

The radius

2.3km

Minsheng Community, Songshan District

The Capella Taipei provides the perfect base for you to discover this Bohemian neighbourhood. When you step through the doors of the hotel, you feel as if you’ve walked into an elegant home. Instead of an echoey lobby, you find deep tangerine-coloured sofas gathered in cosy clusters, just ready to sink into after a day’s sightseeing. At the bottom of the sweeping staircase that swirls from the lobby to the second floor, you’ll spy Ember

28 where chefs grill prime cuts over flame. You can relax in your suite that has a tub which is so large it could be mistaken as a swimming pool, or you can visit the infinity pool itself, which is surrounded by burgundy and gold trimmed parasols and overlooks Taipei 101. Stroll through the lanes of the Minsheng Community or climb aboard one of the electric-powered bicycles that the hotel can provide.

WORDS CLAIRE TURRELL. IMAGES: CAPELLA TAIPEI.

Stay at Capella

TAI WAN

190

metres

Glasshouse

The Glasshouse is three bars in one. On the ground floor, Tilt has a secret room waiting to be discovered. Cooper on the top floor serves classic cocktails. At the end of the night, in the basement you’ll find Playback. Jazz trios, awardwinning DJs and even KPop legends have been known to take to the stage. White jacketed bartenders pour you rich cappuccino cocktails.

450

metres

At a quiet crossroads in Minsheng is the Michelin-starred restaurant Sens. This 20-seat eatery has a tasting menu that changes according to the season. Expect dishes such as snow crab ragu, white asparagus and Oscietra caviar and Lumina lamb saddle with sweet potato mousseline, coffee butter and sage. Think classic French cuisine with a modern twist.

But. We love butter

Fujintree

Between the whitewashed brick walls of the Fujintree 355 clothing store you’ll find an array of buys from upcoming Taiwanese and Japanese fashion designers. You may find chic trench coats, copper cups and embroidered shoes from Taiwan. The brand also owns a neighbouring cafe where its sweet treats include tiramisu.

Matsuyama Tosha Jifuku Shrine

This tiny temple plays a big part in the history of this neighbourhood. Long before the American-style blocks took hold, Minsheng was farmland. It was at this 19th-century temple that the farmers would come and pray for successful crops. While the neighbourhood has grown up around it, and even above it, this is where Minsheng’s story began.

1.6

Sens

metres

Leave the tourist traps behind and visit this neighbourhood cafe. Owner Ding serves up third-culture coffees (known for a more holistic approach to sourcing). Take a seat in one of its green wooden booths and enjoy a pot of Whiskey Oak Sun coffee, which has been aged in whiskey oak barrels and has flavours of vanilla, caramel chocolate and raisins.

When is a tailor, not a tailor, when it’s a gourmet cookie store. Push open the fitting room door of what looks like a gentlemen’s outfitters to find a cookie speakeasy. For the ultimate souvenir take home a box of these thick cream cookies made with French Échiré cream and Chiayi’s Zhounan sun-dried salt.

1.1

850

The Quiet Light

Capella Taipei

1. Glasshouse 2. The Quiet Light 3. Sens 4. But. We love butter 5. Matsuyama Tosha Jifuku Shrine 6. Fujintree 7. Front Door 8. Words Studio

1.6 km

Front Door

It’s not often that you’ll see the crowd for an art gallery exhibition spill onto the street. Behind its floor-to-ceiling glass windows you’ll find Chinese calligraphy, the works of contemporary Japanese artists and as it’s Taiwan, a painted bicycle or two. It started as a frame shop and turned into a picturesque gallery.

2.3 km

Words Studio

In this second-floor studio on Fujin Street, you’ll find Taipei’s favourite greeting cards store. Wander between racks of the Japanese woodblock art prints and drawers of Studio Ghibli postcards. The owner has a collection of vintage fountain pens, which you can use to write a postcard and then mail it. DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

THE LU X FI LES WAY FI N D E R

M O R NI NGTO N P E NI NS U L A

Bathing beauty

V I CTO RI A

IMAGES: ALBA THERMAL SPRINGS & SPA. (BOTTOM RIGHT) JESSE HISCO/VISIT VICTORIA.

Is Alba Thermal Springs & Spa Victoria’s most luxurious new accommodation? Luxury Escapes co-founder and CEO, Adam Schwab, checks into a private villa to find out.

When I discovered that Luxury Escapes’ number one selling experience globally was a day visit to the acclaimed Alba Thermal Springs & Spa, and it is a mere one-hour drive from Lux HQ, it would have been remiss of me not to discover what all the fuss is about. Located near some of Victoria’s most magnificent coastline, conveniently above a natural thermal springs, the $100 million Alba project is a not-so-secret six-star haven. The complex (hotel, restaurant, spa and springs) was larger than I expected, with a grand entrance; the design is minimalist and clean, almost Scandinavian. Walking in the lobby still felt brand new, like the

entrance of a world-class hotel. The main attraction is of course the 31 hot springs (including eight private pools) nestled among native vegetation. The geothermal pools are 100 per cent natural (Alba sits atop a natural spring) and range from 37 to 43 degrees Celsius, alongside a cooler plunge pool. The pools are carefully hidden among the undulating landscape, which means you barely see any other visitors. Alba is a largely adults-only affair and makes no apologies for its clearly upmarket bent. We’re staying overnight in one of the five onsite Sanctuary Villas and two studios, accessed by a private road, giving each villa an

OPPOSITE: each luxury villa has an elevated view across the Alba Thermal Springs & Spa complex. FROM TOP: the villa view; relaxing in one of the many thermal pools. DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

WAY FI N D E R

V I CTO RI A

IMAGES: (TOP) ALBA THERMAL SPRINGS & SPA. (LEFT) JESSE HISCO/VISIT VICTORIA.

elevated view across the complex. These near brandnew villas (opened in June 2025) are an ultra-premium experience, rivalling nearby Jackalope for the most premium in regional Victoria. Each villa comes with a complimentary fully stocked minibar, plush interiors with wooden panelling, as well as Aesop soaps and hand creams. There was even a cheese platter (it didn’t last long) and a fully built fire (you just need to light a match). Guests staying overnight (or two nights, if you really want to indulge) have access to their choice of private bathing: the outdoor terrace pools, Salts pool (which allows you to literally float atop the water) or the Clouds pool. Forget communal bathing, this is the ultimate in privacy. Alba also has an acclaimed restaurant, Thyme, which has indoor and outdoor seating available (if you stay overnight, breakfast is included). Diners sit in pristine white bath robes while taking a break from bathing. With a menu created by award-winning chef Karen Martini, the restaurant features a constantly evolving menu with a focus on sustainable and seasonal produce. Thyme features an extensive wine list from nearby vineyards, as well as lots of healthier beverage options like coldpressed juice or local mineral waters. There wasn’t a spare seat as robed diners decided between the famous Sichuan “Bolognese” spiced pork and shiitake on rye udon noodles and the glazed beef short rib with sour tamarind and salt-baked white onion. Our visit was for less than 24 hours but it felt like we’d been there a week in relaxation terms. Alba may have just created the most ultra lux experience in Victoria.

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: the villas rival anything on the Peninsula; the network of pools; Karen Martini’s food.

DI D YO U K NOW?

Alba has serious sustainable credentials Thermal water is cleaned and re-injected into the underground aquifer and Alba offset 100 per cent of its emissions.

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The ultimate rewards program to elevate every escape Join Société to earn and use points on Luxury Escapes

WELL above PAR The Festival of Golf is a bold reimagining of a golf tournament with fun, food and fashion added to the top flight line-up of international women golfers. And it’s held at Sanctuary Cove Resort & Golf, one of Australia’s most storied courses, with the Karrie Webb Cup up for grabs.

I N PA RT N ER SHIP W ITH

A country club experience

Sanctuary Cove is set to put the party into Australian women’s golf. The Festival of Golf will be held at Sanctuary Cove Golf & Country Club on the Gold Coast in March 2026, in conjunction with the 2026 Australian WPGA Championship, to be held on Sanctuary Cove’s Palms Course. The four-day festival will coincide with one of the premier women’s golf events at a time when Australian women’s golf has never looked so promising. In November 2025, Australian Grace Kim claimed her first major championship at the Amundi Evian Championships in France. It was the first time in history two different Australian women have won back-to-back women’s major championships (Minjee Lee won the major before Kim). The Festival of Golf is set to redefine what women’s golf can be; in fact, it’s a bold reimagining of what the game of golf really is – men’s or women’s – with a lot of fun, food, fashion, live music and drinks thrown into the mix. Held at Sanctuary Cove’s picturesque Marine Village precinct in conjunction with the women’s tournament, you don’t even have to be a golf fan to join in. And it suits every member of the family. There’s a dedicated kids’ zone and there’s lots of interactive golf participation zones to be involved in – where you can compete for great prizes in the longest drive, closest to the pin and putting and chipping events. There’s also an extensive golf exhibition, with unbeatable deals on the latest, greatest golf and lifestyle brands’ golf gear and travel. And to up the fun content, each day there will be live bands and pop-up bars with a beach party to be held at Sanctuary Cove’s Lagoon Beach Club, among a one-acre saltwater lagoon lined with Gold Coast beach sand.

Sanctuary Cove Resort & Golf threw a heck of a party to open its resort and its two world-class championship courses in 1988. Frank Sinatra and Whitney Houston came across the Pacific to perform, but any golfer was much more interested in the performers set to battle it out for the first Sanctuary Cove Classic. Golf superstars Nick Faldo, Greg Norman, Ian Woosnam and Bernhard Langer came to play the only Arnold Palmer-designed course in Australia. American star Curtis Strange flew away with the prize. Thirty-odd years later, Sanctuary Cove Resort & Golf’s two golf courses remain amongst the 100 best courses in Australia, part of a super-slick resort and country club experience that marked the arrival of Australia’s first international golf resort. There’s two golf courses spread across the property’s 474 hectares on the northern Gold Coast. Arnie Palmer’s Pines course is private,

INT ERC ONT INENTA L S A NCT UA RY C OVE R ES O RT

but it’s available to guests of the property’s Intercontinental Sanctuary Cove Resort. Built among 101 hectares of pine forest and native bushland, it’s as a big a test of golf as there is in Australia, with 14 holes contoured around six man-made lakes. You’ve got to drive straight… or there’s trouble on both sides. And its long par-four 18th (with no bailout off the tee) is one of the great closing holes in world golf. But there’s no comedown at the public-access Palms course. Redesigned by legendary Australian course designer, Ross Watson, it’s even more scenic than the Pines course, and while it’s not as long, it requires as much accuracy and perhaps more strategy. It’s heavy on water hazards, deep bunkering and greens which undulate dramatically. Both courses weave through wild, native bushland and past century-old cabbage palms, frequented by colourful birds and pods of kangaroos, which always impresses overseas golfers. Although it’s the lifestyle integration that’s as impressive as any hole, the golf here blends into a dreamy sort of luxury resort lifestyle, Gold Coast-style. The resort, marina and full country club are all right next door. You’ll also find some of Australia’s best practice facilities with double-ended driving ranges, three full-scale practice holes and chipping and putting greens.

The Festival of Golf is a high-energy, feel-good celebration of community spirit where everyone is welcome.

DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

THE LU X FI LES SN ACKOV E R

S ING APO R E

Lion’s share We have stopovers and shopovers, layovers and flopovers, but for food lovers a 24-hour city stay between flights can be an opportunity to sink their teeth into a place’s food culture. Welcome to our regular snackover column; this issue: Stephanie Mikkelsen in Singapore.

6pm

Thursday MO Bar

I’ve spent a day being sensible – Gardens by the Bay, Marina Bay Sands, the postcard circuit. But as the city shifts from humidity to happy hour, the real reason I’m here takes shape. Michelin stars twinkle in my sights, starting with a bar stool at MO Bar. My aperitif is a Sarapan – their take on a negroni, all citrus and confidence – that comes topped with a delicate kaya cookie. Its snap feels like a starter’s pistol – 24 hours of appetite, incoming.

8pm

Burnt Ends

Beef fat-fried potato cakes, surely five of the most gloriously indecent words I’ve ever heard. Two arrive, each one a crisp-edged, golden vessel – one topped with raw beef, the other with fish – the kitchen’s clever nods to steak frites and fish and chips. A heaped spoonful of caviar finishes both. Over the next three hours, I work through grissini and taramasalata, chicken neck with leek, and fried maitake mushroom with white truffle-laced congee and a white soy-cured egg yolk. By the time my hanger steak lands, I’m equal parts impressed and defeated. Grateful for trousers with a waist tie and not buttons, I roll home at 11.30pm.

THIS PAGE: the Merlion is Singapore’s official mascot; the stylish MO Bar (top). OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: dim sum; flavours of the Tekka Centre; baked goods from Taicheong Bakery; beef fat-fried potato cakes from Burnt Ends (left); Burnt Ends’ pork belly taco (right).

SI N G AP O RE

12pm

Maxwell Centre

Call it tourist duty or culinary pilgrimage, but I’m at Maxwell for the obligatory lap I didn’t get on a visit 20 years ago. I make up for it with a crisp-and-crackly oyster cake and turnip-filled popiah. Tian Tian, the famous chicken rice stall, gets a nod, but tip of the day is to go to the stall next door – same chef lineage, half the queue and every bit of the flavour.

IMAGES: MANDARIN ORIENTAL HOTEL GROUP. BARECA MEDIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM. PLATONGKOH VIA GETTY IMAGES

8am

1pm Friday Haus 65

A jog on the treadmill and I’m back in fighting form, my appetite recovered and ready for another day. Breakfast is light – fruit and dim sum in the hotel’s club lounge, Haus 65. Juicy shumai and har gow disappear quickly, dunked in soy and sweet chilli.

10am

Tiong Bahru

6pm

Tekka Centre

I rally. With only an hour until close, I double down: rojak from Haji John and fresh coconut appam from Sri Aachi Aappakadai. The rojak is a jumble of fried bites – octopus, coconut dough, prawn fritter – each speared with a skewer and swiped through a punchy red sauce, just the right balance of sweet and spice. I alternate with the coconut appam, folding the fluffy pancake and dipping it first into orange-stained sugar, then into a pot of coconut milk.

I hop off the TEL line in Havelock, another hawker centre in my sights. Second lunch is at Loo’s Hainanese Curry Rice. The line moves fast, and soon auntie behind the glass is drenching my plate – chicken, cabbage and huge discs of braised eggplant – in a glossy golden curry. It’s sweet, fragrant and messy. A tart calamansi juice washes it down.

Champion Bolo Bun

I’ve moved to Tanjong Pagar and the smell of freshly baked dough is reason enough to stop. Champion Bolo Bun – the world’s first bolo bun concept store – turns out its signature buns every 15 minutes. A bite into the curry potato has crumbs falling like confetti down my front; the crackly crust giving way to pillowy dough and a wonderfully spiced filling. The classic arrives with a slab of French butter that melts faster than my self-control. It’s Hong Kong comfort, reimagined for the Lion City.

8pm 3pm

Food Village Takashimaya

I’ve checked out of one hotel and into another – a new stay, new snacking grounds. I get lost in the maze of mega malls and underpasses around Orchard Road, following the sounds of clattering cutlery until I pop out at Food Village Takashimaya. First up, chilli pork bakkwa from Bee Cheng Hiang: chewy, sweet, and smoky. Then a pandan tart from Tai Cheong Bakery: warm, light custard in pastry so buttery and short it demands a second round. I can’t resist a char siew pie just to go through it all again. I return to the hotel for a swim and a snooze.

Uncle Chieng Wafer

I’m flagging, the last 24-plus hours having run their delicious course. One more stop before declaring defeat: Uncle Chieng Wafer, Orchard Road’s longserving diplomat of dessert. I go for mint choc-chip ice-cream in rainbow bread, no crusts. It’s bright, a little silly and totally satisfying. A sweet, simple end to the day.

DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

IMAGES: CANYON SPIRIT. (FAR RIGHT) ASCENTXMEDIA VIA GETTY IMAGES.

WAY FI N D E R THE LU X LI ST

ROCK and roll UTAH/C OLORAD O

U N I TE D STATE S

The latest route on luxury train Canyon Spirit takes in dramatically rocky Southwest scenery, local wildlife and the home of the teddy bear. Ivy Carruth makes tracks across the United States. “Beaver!” one of my train mates squeals, pointing toward the wall-to-wall window from his roomy, recliner-style seat a few rows behind me. Our group of travellers snaps out of their railway-track-induced reverie to (fingers crossed) catch a glimpse of nature’s chisel-toothed architect. I’m too slow. We’ve seen their dams, though. They’re surprisingly modest compared to the bald eagle nests, which are the size of double beds and weigh around 115kg. We’re onboard the Canyon Spirit, a luxe daylight train and the US sister to Canada’s well-known Rocky Mountaineer, as it previews its new three-day itinerary between Salt Lake City and Denver. Rockies to the Red Rocks, the new route is called, and it perfectly captures the geological mood swings of the American West. The train threads along the Colorado River’s jade coils and the high-desert walls

of Ruby and De Beque Canyons. When Glenwood Canyon sweeps open, a rush of forest green and granite grey cedes to the Great Basin’s slow unfurl, with sagebrush and sky in every direction. The train officially rolls out the red carpet for guests from April 2026. Travelling east through America’s dramatic desert heartlands, the journey includes overnight stops and hotel accommodation in Moab (Utah) and Glenwood Springs (Colorado), around 200 km apart – destinations as charming as the ride itself – before returning the way we came. Canyon Spirit arranges excursions, and it’s well worth snatching the opportunity to explore Arches (my pick) or Canyonlands National Parks, with Moab serving as the gateway to two of Utah’s celebrated “Mighty Five” parks. The town itself, tiny with a population under 6,000, moves to

its own rhythm. It is full of not-yet-famous artists with grit on their boots who like to watch the canyon walls appear to catch fire when the sun sets. Glenwood Springs, home to the world’s largest natural hot springs pool, is as green and verdant as Moab is dusty and sunbleached. The storied Hotel Colorado, open since 1893, is said to be both haunted (it was a Navy hospital in WWII), and the real birthplace of a ubiquitous plush toy. Legend has it that in 1905, after a hunting trip, US President Theodore Roosevelt was gifted a handmade stuffed toy here – a gesture that helped the craze for “Teddy’s Bear,” later known simply as the teddy bear. The town is a haven for those drawn to soft adventure, soft toys, boutique finds or a restorative pause to recharge. OPPOSITE: Canyon Spirit is the sister train to Canada’s Rocky Mountaineer and travels through the beautiful scenery of Utah and Colorado. ABOVE: the new Rockies to the Red Rocks route (left) captures the American West (right). DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

WAY FI N D E R

U N I TE D STATE S

There’s something about the glamour of rail travel. The celebratory “cheers” as she pulls from the station, the leisurely pace and surrender to the journey. On the Canyon Spirit, the staff feel less like employees and more like travel mates – cracking jokes and soaking it all in with us. Take Mike Hannifin, my instant bestie. Mike grew up around trains, and after retiring early a few years ago (and at his wife’s behest: “Mike, you gotta find something to do”), he made use of his rail enthusiasm and joined the team as an onboard host. Mike doesn’t just deliver commentary, so much as he provides a performance laced with sass. When the scenery hits hard, he literally jumps for joy. He’s a storyteller: we learn how the late singer John Denver helped shape the civil engineering that opened up Glenwood, and hear stories about the curious tunnel traditions involving kisses, hat pins and a somewhat naughty word – you’ll have to ask Mike about that one yourself. Scenery may steal the show, but sustenance plays a strong supporting role. With day journeys stretching from five to eight hours, dining isn’t just a fancy

THIS PAGE, FROM TOP: the attentive staff are a key part of a Canyon Spirit trip; the lush greenery; food plays a key role in the enjoyment of the new route; the train weaves its way through the American West.

D R E A M BY L U X U RY ES CA P ES

perk, it’s a necessity. We choose from a curated three-course menu that features ingredients paying homage to the region. They’re thoughtful, white-linen dishes designed to reflect the landscape outside the window. Among the standouts for me? A tender bison lasagne (“I’m so glad you loved that; it’s brand new,” Mike tells me with his easy warmth), and a strawberry Champagne sponge cake, baked just for us in a small-town shop along the route. It’s as airy and celebratory as the ride itself. Another of my travel group’s favourite people is bartender Leigh Berry – she of the exceptional espresso-martini-making skills. Leigh is the Lounge Car queen, running it like her living room and taking care of guests like they’re in her home. Travellers who choose the Premier Upgrade onboard

experience have access to this car in addition to the main passenger car. The lounge is moody and festive, chatty and social. There’s the din of Leigh’s cocktail shaker, and sage advice to be had. “Leopold’s Silver Tree Vodka is THE best, and I use it as often as I can,” she confides. “It’s from a craft distillery in Denver; I love it.” My overall impression? It’s immersive without trying too hard; stylish and revealing without being stiff. I didn’t spot that beaver, but what I did find was better: front-row access to some of nature’s finest work, no hiking boots required.

IMAGES: CANYON SPIRIT. (LEFT CENTRE) IVY CARRUTH.

Cast of characters

THE LU X FI LES B ARTE ND E R ’S H A NDS H A KE

AU STR AL I A

Message in a bottle Q U E E NS L A ND

The bartender’s handshake is a traditional greeting between hospitality workers; it might take the form of a signature cocktail or a simple shot. We shake hands with Marie Alm, sommelier and beverage manager for InterContinental Hayman Great Barrier Reef ’s castaway-meets-curacao cocktail house Aqua. From whisky and brine to Kahlúa and cream, the best odd couples have an undeniable chemistry. A classically trained sommelier with an approach that’s more Paris than Palau, Marie Alm brings a distinctly European sensibility to the barefoot island paradise of Hayman Island. With a career spent in Europe’s best wine rooms, she’s built a discipline that’s shaped by terroir, time-honoured techniques and a life-long reverence for wine. On Hayman Island’s sundrenched sands, it’s a strong pairing. The location doesn’t hurt. Set between the InterContinental Hayman Great Barrier Reef’s iconic pool – the largest of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere, unfurling around the resort like a brilliant blue sail – and the shimmering Coral Sea, the open-air Aqua is an easy place to while away an afternoon in paradise. Marie travelled the world before arriving on Hayman Island. “It’s Australia’s wild beauty that ultimately called to me,” she says. “For over seven years I’ve been based on tropical islands across the country but it’s the Whitsundays that has captured my heart.” Now overseeing the beverage program at Hayman Island, Marie curates wine lists and tasting experiences that balance elegance with approachability, whether showcasing international stars or local treasures.

Whether guiding a guest through a crisp Mornington Peninsula pinot noir or introducing them to a minimal-intervention grenache from McLaren Vale, her guiding philosophy is the same. “I want to celebrate the story in every bottle,” Marie says. “It’s all about supporting sustainable, passionate makers. When guests leave, I want them to remember the feeling behind that final glass.”

Ready to explore?

MAR I E ’S FAVOURITE HAY MAN ISL A ND V ENUES

Pacific InterContinental Hayman Great Barrier Reef’s signature restaurant offers sophisticated, sea-breeze dining where modern Australian cuisine is backed by a strong wine list.

Bam Bam “It’s the perfect spot for long, lazy lunches,” says Marie. Southeast Asian flavours collide with poolside vibes at Bam Bam; expect the island’s best Singapore Sling.

Amici Rustic Italian with a polished edge. “It’s where I go for comforting food, a bottle of Chianti and a taste of the old world.”

MAR I E ’S FAVOURITE AI R L I E B EACH V ENUES

Boho Coffee A marina-side gem for wholesome breakfasts, fresh juices and standout coffee in a bohemian setting. “Perfect for slow mornings and catching up with friends – Kat and Michelle run it with heart.”

Anchor Bar A rooftop hideaway with sweeping views over the Coral Sea. “There’s no better place for sunset cocktails. It’s where I go for a negroni and panoramic bliss.”

Marie Alm’s Langford Long Island “It’s beloved among return guests and insiders. Bold, tropical and steeped in island tradition ... it’s the drink I’d proudly serve to a fellow sommelier or bartender.” The recipe remains a closely held secret – expect Malibu, amaretto, lemon and ginger ale – and the result is pure magic. Vibrant and refreshing, it’s made to be sipped poolside as the sun dips below the horizon.”

D R E A M BY L U X U RY ES CA P ES

THE LU X FI LES

LUIZ LOW ’S FAVOURITE H OK K A ID O RESTAURA N TS

CH EF ’S TA B L E

Niseko Confidential “An intimate, ingredient-driven dining experience tucked away in Hirafu,” says Luiz. Tokyo Confidential’s sister bar focuses on craftsmanship, with a small counter and a tasting menu that evolves with the seasons.

Tepache “This is modern Niseko!” says Luiz. Named after Mexico’s delicious pineapple beer, Tepache’s space is casual but refined. “The food celebrates both Japan’s and Mexico’s abundance of authenticity and imagination.”

HakuSteak “Celebrating the art of Japanese wagyu, HakuSteak is elegant without being pretentious.” The modern grill is also one of Niseko’s best dining rooms.

Somoza Set inside a beautifully restored 150-year-old farmhouse overlooking the forest, Somoza boasts an immersive menu that reflects the rhythm of the seasons. “Dining here feels serene and reflective, especially in winter.”

Rakuichi Soba “World-renowned yet deeply humble, Rakuichi Soba is a celebration of mastery in its purest form,” says Luiz. Chef Tatsuru Rai crafts each soba noodle by hand, serving just a few guests a day in an intimate wooden room. “It’s food stripped back to its essence: honest, precise, and unforgettable.”

JAPAN

Raising the t-bar

JAPAN

In the ski fields of Hokkaido good food and great slopes go together like miso and sweet corn. Tokyo-based hospitality group EatMe – the outfit behind Tokyo Confidential (#70 Asia’s 51-100 Best Bars) – continues its winning streak with their newest opening, AORA. We pull up a chair with head chef Luiz Low. There’s never been a shortage of exceptional après-ski at Niseko Chatrium Japan, the luxury ski resort that’s cradled between twin mountains Yotei and NisekoAnnupuri; AŌRA stands on hallowed ground, inhabiting the space once occupied by Yuichi Kamimura’s moody Michelin darling, Kamimura. They’re big shoes to fill, but Luiz Low knows AŌRA is up to the task, delivering an upscale, produce-focused menu that draws inspiration from Italy, France and America’s Pacific Northwest. “I don’t cook to impress,” Luiz says. “AŌRA was created to bring people together – travellers from around the world, friends meeting over food and mountain locals. That spirit of connection shapes everything we do here.” As with all great chefs, there’s an almost spiritual element to his work. “The serenity of a Niseko winter, a season of quiet light and deep reflection. I know our food can take you somewhere beyond the table.” AŌRA’s menu emphasises clean flavours, precise techniques, and a deep connection to the Hokkaido wilderness. Japan’s rockstar ingredients are out in full force, with urchins hand-plucked from the Sea of Japan, umami-packed rice fermentation

Signature dish

Octopus with miso romesco and smoked paprika soil “This dish reflects AŌRA’s cross-cultural rhythm, with an Italian approach in spirit,” says Luiz. “Tender Hakodate octopus is lightly charred; the resulting gentle smokiness is paired with a miso-romesco sauce that’s earthy, nutty and complex. A touch of smoked paprika soil finishes the plate with texture and fragrance. It’s simple but full of quiet character.”

D R E A M BY L U X U RY ES CA P ES

shio koji and black wagyu beef from central Hokkaido’s Shiraoi Town, considered some of the best in the world. Under Luiz’s direction, they’re transformed into dishes like uni crostini with garlic butter and tomato sauce, black cod in green curry velouté and wagyu sirloin in a rich port wine jus. “In Niseko, cultures mix naturally,” says Luiz. “My own journey has been much the same, shaped by kitchens in Penang, London, Shanghai and now Niseko. But I’ve really always been searching for one thing – sincerity. In food, it’s sincerity that leaves a lasting memory.”

THE LU X FI LES WAY FI N D E R

C H I AN G M AI

Umbrella academy

TH AI L AN D

Thailand’s buzzing northern city of Chiang Mai is a hub of exquisite one-of-a-kind artistry – but the unique industry of umbrella crafting reigns supreme. Helena Melton brings home a very special souvenir. introduced to this ancient art form over a cup of tea and finger sandwiches at the Mai Restaurant & Bar, the signature dining establishment at my stay, Meliá Chiang Mai. Every inch of the restaurant is dedicated to traditional umbrellas: silver umbrellas tessellate together along the walls while pine light fixtures pay homage to the ribs and runner, spreading across the ceiling like an umbrella’s canopy. In this artistic discipline – brought to the region by the ancient Buddhist monk Phra Inthaa, who believed teaching this skill to local farmers would provide them with a second income – umbrellas made from bamboo and mulberry bark paper are dyed every colour imaginable and then hand painted with astounding detail: vivid flower arrangements, brilliant koi fish, and butterflies taking flight through blooming cherry blossoms. These umbrellas, which protect from the sunshine but not a Thai downpour, dangle wistfully outside open-air market stalls, decorate restaurants and have been immortalised in statue form at Wat Phrat That Doi Suthep temple. Tourists can peek behind the curtain at the Umbrella Making Center in the Bo Sang Handicraft Village on the outskirts of the city.

IMAGES: SUPERMOP/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM, F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Creative pursuits always fill me with apprehension. But despite this, I’ve always loved being surrounded by creative people. So, from the moment I arrived in Chiang Mai, I felt at home. Spend some time exploring the streets of Chiang Mai and you’ll find everyone is perfecting their craft. Baristas in coffee shops like the ultra-moody SELF reinvent the world’s favourite morning brew using fresh orange, yuzu and even jackfruit. Chic cocktail bars like Bar.San. push boundaries using matcha, sweet potato and olive oil. Skilled silversmiths carve intricate jewellery out of the purest materials. No matter where you go in the city, the spirit of ingenuity is electric. Dubbed the “Rose of the North”, Chiang Mai is the largest northern city in Thailand, hugged by soaring mountains on one side and the winding Ping River on the other. This remarkable city was once the ancient capital of the Lanna Kingdom, autonomous from the rest of Thailand. From this, distinct traditions and artistic aesthetics emerged that can still be seen today in Chiang Mai’s more than 300 Buddhist temples and the fortified walls of its Old City. Crafting delicate umbrellas is the city’s first creative love. I am first

DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

WAY FI N D E R

TH AI L AN D

Paint from the heart her paintings are intricate and incredibly cohesive, she explains that she never plans anything before she starts. “I like to freestyle, so each piece is one of a kind,” she says. “Sometimes I use a template, but other times I just paint over it with what I’m feeling that day.” This news is both shocking and reassuring for someone as artistically challenged as me. With Noi’s words fresh in my mind and a bare umbrella in front of me, I let myself relax into the process of painting. Suddenly I’m finding joy in creating something, rather than worrying about the finished product. Is it the most beautiful creation? No. Could a child do better? Definitely. But it’s mine. It’s this feeling of not being afraid to fail and wanting to create something entirely unique that is the essence of Chiang Mai.

IMAGES: TRAVEL_MOTION VIA GETTY IMAGES, PLOYPEMUK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM.

Walking into the Umbrella Making Center, I’m greeted by a walkway swathed in pastel pink, green and yellow umbrellas that glow in the afternoon sun. The sweet scent of dye is thick in the air and the sound of lively chatter and the whir of portable fans envelops us. I stop in front of one artist but we soon learn that this isn’t just anyone – this is Noi Pattana, a master who has been perfecting her craft for more than 30 years. With each delicate brushstroke, a new part of the scene comes to life: abstract shapes become cranes, quick strokes form bamboo leaves and bright pink flowers emerge with a flourish. In less than five minutes, two cranes stand in a garden of flowers under a red moon. Before I begin my creation, Noi offers me advice: “Paint from the heart. Don’t think about what you want to do, just do it.” While

THIS PAGE: creating your own umbrella at Chiang Mai’s Umbrella Making Center. PREVIOUS SPREAD: colourful Thai umbrellas and Wat Phra That Doi Suthep temple.

Meliá Chiang Mai Book your stay now

D R E A M BY L U X U RY ES CA P ES

Located on the thriving Charoen Prathet Road, Melá Chiang Mai is a place of peace in the heaving city. This five-star haven has made its interior design an ode to the city, with the reception area paying homage to the Yi Peng lantern festival and its curved archways a nod to Wat Umong temple. With a sparkling outdoor pool and sophisticated pool bar, the hotel is the perfect place to luxuriate and relax the day away. Taste locally grown food at the hotel’s farm, then taste it cooked up into incredible dishes. End the day with a drink at Chiang Mai’s highest rooftop bar, Mai The Sky Bar.

BABINDA BOULDERS

SUMMER LIVES ON IN T HE T R O P I C S Escape to Tropical North Queensland after the summer rain has painted the landscape green and warm weather remains long after the season shifts. The creeks and rivers run full and the waterfalls are at their most spectacular. It is the perfect time to wake up in a tree house surrounded by lush rainforest or get the adrenaline pumping on white water rafting rapids. Dive into vibrant coral gardens on the Great Barrier Reef and connect with ancient cultures. Your dream tropical trip awaits.

S E E G R E AT L E AV E G R E AT E R

D I S C OV E R M O R E AT C A I R N S G R E AT B A R R I E R R E E F. C O M

THE LU X FI LES FI R ST LO O K

InterContinental Halong Bay Resort The hype

This brand-new resort is the first international luxury stay built on the reclaimed land of Ha Long Marina Urban Bay Area. It has been three years of design from firm WATG and five years of construction in this newly developed part of the awe-inspiring bay. Bold architecture, stunning interiors and exceptional dining and experiences on the bayfront, all paired with a never-before-seen view of its miraculous surroundings. It’s InterContinental’s new pride and joy.

First impressions

Book your stay now

A fishing-net-inspired water feature is the centrepiece of the porte cochère, where the path between the koi ponds leads me to towering front doors fit for a palace. As I enter the tiled lobby, it’s immediately clear the resort has championed its unique bay views with windows framing the jaw-dropping scenery. The bay’s limestone karsts stretch as far as the eye can see. Thoughtful interior design elements from Thai firm P49Deesign provide a nod to the region’s floating villages and fishing heritage with wicker

lampshades echoing fish traps and intricate woodwork inspired by traditional bamboo basket boats. The colour scheme of turquoise and gold represents the water and reflections of the bay at sunrise and sunset and brighter touches emulate local ~ fish and pearls. Local artist Nguyên Manh Hùng (Hùng Rô) has paintings . dotted throughout the resort. From this central, third-level lobby I can see the beach and pool below, with guestrooms fanning out on either side. It’s a striking start.

FROM TOP: the view’s the thing at InterContinental Halong Bay Resort; the lounge pool; the karst peaks that surround the resort. OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: a classic room; the food from Marina Kitchen.

V I E TN AM

Where am I sleeping? I assumed I’d been upgraded as soon as I entered my somehow-entry-level, 53-squaremetre Classic Room. It’s spacious and homely and all 174 guest rooms and suites offer the same views of Ha Long Bay and its otherworldly islands with private balconies. I found it so soothing that I opted to keep the curtains open to naturally wake to the mesmerising bay. Sunlight grew as fishers reefed up nets with brilliant silver flashes and sea birds plunged to claim their first catch of the day, too. It’s some way to start your day.

WORDS CONOR WALSH. IMAGES: NGUYEN QUANG NGOC TONKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM, 1INTERCONTINENTAL HA LONG BAY RESORT.

The hospitality situation Marina Kitchen serves just-off-the-boat seafood. A whole Ha Long squid sees the tender tentacles served with fiery green chilli sauce and cooling mango while a Van Don black grouper has generous chunks of white fish in sweet-and-sour coriander sauce with ginger and fresh herbs. The buffet breakfast has more than 60 dishes including banh mis, warming pho and sizzling noodles fried to order. To one side of the resort lies French bistro La Baguette, boasting an impressive wine selection and plating up a refined French and Vietnamese menu. Cocktails and canapes – including the crispy toothfish with tangy aioli – await at the upper-level club lounge for those guests with upgraded access. Between the beach and pool is an open-air bar with light bites, the floating-village-inspired Del Mar, where sunset mojitos drew me for a perfect sendoff on my final night. A sake library and Japanese eatery Roku and Star Bar, plus Cantonese offering Yulong Mansion, are set to open later this year.

Relax and revive Set away from the livelier parts of the resort, the aptly named Hidden Lagoon Spa is a calm oasis framed by lush tropical gardens and koi-filled ponds. The beachfront infinity pool, one of three onsite pools, provides a refreshing dip but your active side might win, because you’ll be hard pressed to find a better treadmill view than the one at the fitness centre. If you prefer to squeeze the most out of your holidays try a curated experience. In just three days I enjoyed cooking and drinks classes, dinner and a show in a cave, and weaved through the bay aboard a private speedboat to a seafood lunch at a floating pearl farm.

Our conclusion This beautiful place is fresh in every sense; a luxurious new take beside an ancient jewel. Forging the way in an ever-evolving Ha Long tourism landscape, the resort represents a bright future, where modernity is embraced, but never at the expense of tradition.

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THE LU X FI LES WAY FI N D E R

Surf and turf W HI TS U NDAYS

Chartering a Portland Roads’ vessel to explore the Great Barrier Reef and then holing up in a luxury resort just out of Airlie Beach gives two very different takes on this tropical paradise. Paul Chai tries the Whitsundays by land and sea.

Q U E E N SL AN D

Bright colours and unexpected shapes swim before my eyes and I’m not even under the water in the Whitsundays yet. Instead, I have mountain-goated my way up a steep incline in the Whitsunday Islands National Park on Hook Island. Before me is a rock-art tableaux so lurid that rumours abound of it being touched up with modern paints (untrue). Dating back over 9,000 years, Hook Island is home to the art and middens of the Ngaro, or “canoe”, people, a seafaring Indigenous community that once inhabited the Whitsunday Islands. To get to this special spot, we have dropped anchor in the calm Nara Inlet and taken a runabout to the island. My home for the next couple of days is Portland Roads’ showcase vessel SV Whitsunday Freedom, a behemoth in bareboating. The catamaran has four double cabins each with an ensuite, a hot deck shower and onboard water desalination. She is one of the most stylish bareboats around and due to her size she takes a bit of getting used to if sailing yourself. To save time on a short visit I have elected to take a bareboat charter, with vessel manager Brad Henstock doing most

rocked to sleep by the gentle listing of the boat. Brad has us underway early and we are the first to set foot on the famous Whitehaven Beach. It’s amazing to get this stretch of sand to yourself and one of the beauties of arranging your own itinerary. We have a big day planned and are soon sailing for Manta Ray Bay, which is home not only to the titular rays today but George the humphead Māori wrasse. I am swimming next to George; he is brilliant blue with a bulbous forehead and a genuine curiosity that sees him almost headbutt me a couple of times; a little more ominous are the black great trevally: dark, huge and lightning fast. The afternoon brings some sailing lessons as I wrestle with SV Whitsunday Freedom on a challenging sea before we once again settle in at sunset for a seafood feast.

of the steering. I am allowed some supervised sailing like a teen on L plates. I am pleased to not be in charge as we manoeuvre out of the Airlie Beach Marina, a retirement village for the world’s best sailing boats. We motor past Condor, which once had the tallest single-spar mast in the world, and Matador, a legendary maxi that previously won the Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race. These charter boats now ply the waters of the Ngaro people, one of the few places in the world where you can play skipper with boats of this size without formal qualifications. Pulling up in Nara Inlet and hiking to the vivid cave paintings is a reminder of the seafarers who came before us. We dock for the night and Brad reveals he also knows his way around a barbecue as he sears some Moreton Bay bugs Explore the supplied by Fish D’Vine, Whitsundays once a famous fish restaurant and rum bar that has morphed into a local catering company. We are

OPPOSITE: the marina. THIS PAGE: exploring the islands on SV Whitsunday Freedom. DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

WAY FI N D E R

Q U E E N SL AN D

Portland Roads

Land ahoy Back on dry land, I have swapped the swell of the sea for a very swell view of Funnel Bay. The one constant is that someone is cooking up some incredible local seafood for me. Chef Tara Sobolt from Coastal Food Designs is creating a three-course meal in the kitchen of my villa at Yangaro while I sip a sundowner on the deck overlooking my private plunge pool and a lawn so wellmanicured I half expect someone to wander past carrying clubs. Yangaro is just 10 minutes’ drive from Airlie Beach; it’s something of a gated community

Be the captain of your own adventure on this incredible voyage through the majestic Whitsundays with a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to charter a vessel through acclaimed eco-tour agency Portland Roads – Sailing the Whitsundays.

with Yangaro Clubhouse wellness retreat at its centre. The villas are so enormous I feel like I need a scooter to make it from the front door to the pool, and the kitchen has plenty of room for Tara to work her culinary magic. My first course is three sizeable local prawns in a creamy herb-and-garlic sauce; main is a local emperor fillet sitting on cauliflower cream with a crown of lightly dressed citrus salad. The meal finishes with a rich chocolate ganache tart with crème fraiche and Tara leaving the kitchen better than she found it. The following day I head out to explore Airlie Beach, the compact step-off point for many Great Barrier Reef activities. This is one of the most laidback towns on a very chill section of the Queensland coast with

Stay at Yangaro

D R E A M BY L U X U RY ES CA P ES

swaying palms, the riverside Bicentennial Walkway and a parade of stark white boats against a brilliant blue sea. Airlie’s main street is packed with places to eat and drink and I bump into an off-duty Brad and his daughter grabbing a coffee at Paradiso Pavilion (it’s that small a town). I have to be back at Yangaro for yet another seafood extravaganza by midafternoon, this time delivered by Kev Collins, owner of Fish D’Vine. Kev presents me with a platter heaped high with crab, prawns, salmon sashimi and more Moreton Bay bugs. Back on my pool deck overlooking Funnel Bay I now have the best of land and sea combined after a memorable visit to the Whitsunday Coast.

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Our expert hosts undertake dedicated research trips to design each itinerary, ensuring a highly curated journey.

Each tour has just one departure date, ensuring that every trip is a unique, oncein-a-lifetime experience.

Travellers will enjoy iconic bucket-list experiences, capturing moments that go beyond ordinary travel expectations.

All hotels and resorts are meticulously handpicked for their exceptional quality, comfort, location, and service.

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THE LU X FI LES THE L UX L IST

Pattaya grows up The Thai beachside spot is shaking off its party-town image with a new batch of sophisticated stays and food offerings. Helena Melton discovers another side of Pattaya.

Pattaya, a hotspot on Thailand’s eastern coast, has matured from a youthful nightlife hotspot to a luxury playground. Here you’ll find an island-hopping culture, decadent shopping, thriving night markets, hushed temples and adrenaline-pumping go-kart tracks. And Meliá Pattaya is the stay of choice. Repurposing an old hotel, this elegant presence on the Pattaya skyline is capitalising on the city’s growing popularity with luxury travellers with innovative design, acclaimed dining options and relaxation spots, all with Meliá’s signature charm.

The hotel MEL I A PAT TAYA

Meliá Pattaya’s nautical flair recognises Pattaya’s former life as a fishing village: waves are reflected in design elements that flow along the walls and are splashed along the carpet in a palette of calming blues. At breakfast haunt Sanehh Sarae – a pun on local fishing village Bang Saray – every surface is adorned with decorative fishing nets and baskets while seagull silhouettes take flight. There is also the inhouse YHI spa and wellness centre.

Here are five reasons you should visit Pattaya 3

The beach club L AY B E AC H C L U B

An upscale day at the beach wouldn’t be complete without visiting LAY Beach Club, with two immaculate bars, feathersoft daybeds and a refreshing pool complete with hydrobar. Its paella is a decadent tribute to Meliá’s Spanish roots that easily feeds two. Nightly fire shows remind guests that Pattaya hasn’t lost its sense of fun, and hotel guests can be chauffeured back to the hotel lobby by golf buggy. This is why Canna has partnered with Luxury Escapes to open a members-exclusive departure lounge.

The sushi DEN

A bamboo walkway is the gateway to DEN, Meliá Pattaya’s bold Japanese eatery dishing up Nikkei cuisine, a melding of Peruvian flavours with Japanese culinary techniques: ceviche alongside tempura prawn; chimichurri next to wasabi. DEN redefines fresh seafood in Thailand, with fresh ingredients imported directly from Japan and succulent squid caught by local fishers.

The restaurant Y I TO NG CHINESE R ESTAURA NT & SKY BA R

Yitong Chinese Restaurant & Sky Bar, located in Meliá Pattaya, celebrates the region’s Chinese community and exudes glamour: its interiors are moody with just a pinch of traditional Chinese decor, and the signature cocktail menu pairs ginseng with Western spirits. The two main cuisines used are Cantonese and Sichuan, and the Peking duck is prepared in an oven imported from China then served on lazy-Susan-laden dim sum tables. The views from the Sky Bar are out across the whole city.

The poolside life HOT EL PO OL

The electric blue saltwater pool has private booths featuring soft lighting, a curtain for extra privacy and a nook for your drinks – delivered directly by Lula Pool Bar. With an elevator that opens out onto the pool area, wet feet can shuffle back to their room easily.

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CALIFORNIA

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The land of dreamers, sunshine, movie magic and innovation, California, or “the Golden State” as it’s known, is the ultimate playground. With vibrant beaches filled with street performers and surfers, multicultural flavours of Mexican, East Asian and European influence and action-packed sports arenas, California holds the world in one place. In California, culture pulses through every street. Stalls of fresh fruit and sizzling taco stands sit along boardwalks where surfing is a way of life. California promises endless adventure, and the state is also

home to the most national parks in the whole of the US. This is where towering mountains meet venerable wine production, and the glamour of celebrity meets traditional cattle ranches; California

is awe-inspiring and for everyone. From the bright lights of Los Angeles to the picturesque San Luis Obispo, California invites you to join in on the sun-soaked optimism it is so famous for.

Here is our insider guide to the perfect California escape. DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

I N SI D E R

Sextant Wines

DRINKING & DINING

Patio tastings with large, fresh salads feel like you’re in a family backyard, but set among acres of vineyards in California’s Central Coast. The 100-year-old general store perfects the Sextant Bar, a sweet treat like a smore, but a brownie of gooey, warm butterscotch. The Kamal Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is inventive, with complex layers of fruit and earthy flavours.

Ka’teen To eat fresh food drawing inspiration from the Yucatán Peninsula, diners walk into what feels like a jungle hidden in a dimly lit corner of Hollywood glowing with fireplaces. Hand-picked by local farmers, the esquites (Mexican street corn salad) are creative – smothered in a thick coconut cream instead of butter for a creamy, lasting flavour.

peasants FEAST

California

A warm welcome makes it clear that this family-run restaurant is inspired by Solvang’s tight-knit community. Full of heart, farm-to-table comfort food includes the local butternut squash soup starter, which is smooth and cosy. Alongside a freshly squeezed lemonade, the mac and cheese is wonderfully crunchy, covered in herbed breadcrumbs.

Winter December

February

California’s temperatures drop to varying degrees in winter. Deep snow in Lake Tahoe and Sierra Nevada creates ideal skiing conditions. Yosemite National Park becomes a magical blanket of snow. Sunshine persists through rainy moments in Santa Barbara, Pismo Beach and Palm Springs. Oceans bring more swell, but surfers remain. Christmas cheer and ice-skating rinks light up cities, and migrating grey whales come ashore for birthing along coastlines.

Spring March

May

Spring is paradise for the outdoorsy type. When temperatures warm, the “super bloom” is what locals rave about, as hillsides transform with vibrant colours of blossoming desert flowers. Palm Springs feels like summer, and a scorching sun hits Coachella and Stagecoach festivals. Flowers bloom over San Francisco’s Lombard Street, and streets are bustling with noise as the California mid-state fair in Paso Robles draws visitors from all over.

U N I TE D STATE S

Dalida Chefs Laura and Sayat Ozyilmaz’s multicultural roots inspire an elevated Eastern Mediterranean menu that leaves a lasting impression at this San Franciscan joint. The octopus and sujuk is briny and bold, cooked, pressed and sliced. They’ve also perfected a 12-hour lamb shoulder tandoor that is a showstopper; it’s next-level fall-apart tender.

Superba Food + Bread

Bar Shoji The long line of locals outside this chic Japanese bar in San Francisco is a testament to how well it celebrates the bay’s diverse food scene. The Noguchii cocktail stars a smooth wagyu-washed Japanese whisky and pairs with edamame covered in lots of spicy garlic, and a beef brisket burger served on a sizzling cheese fondue plate.

Summer June

August

Summer in California is something to behold. The weather is hot and dry, but that doesn’t stop mountain trail hikers. As days lengthen, beachgoers thrive. Food stalls selling chilicovered mangoes are plenty, and surfers are dotted along shores. June Gloom brings dense morning fog from the ocean, but by mid-morning the sun shines. Fourth of July celebrations mean fireworks light up entire cities, with roars of Americans sounding like a chorus.

Fall September

November

by season

IMAGES (BOTTOM, LEFT TO RIGHT): JENPENG, LA'BOOM, HANNATOR, BILL MORSON – SHUTTERSTOCK.COM. (TOP RIGHT) SUPERBA.

The smell of fresh bread fills the air at this Los Angeles cafe, whose creed is that food is made to be shared. A cold, sweet Spanish latte in hand, the choice of warm butter and salt, charred eggplant, fresh cheese or smoked trout bread becomes a delicious dilemma.

Fall brings mild mornings, warm days and crisp evenings. Known as “crush” season, vineyards buzz as workers race to pick grapes at peak ripeness. When you’re not hearing the crunch of leaves at your feet, "trick or treat" echoes the streets through October, and the smell of pumpkin pie oozes from windows during Thanksgiving. Beaches and wineries are as busy as ever. Sports lovers thrive, with the NFL in full swing and NBA and NHL seasons beginning.

DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

I N SI D E R

SLEEPING & RELAXING

Sandbourne Santa Monica, Autograph Collection Steps from the famous Santa Monica Beach and pier, this feels like a quintessentially Californian hotel: palm trees line the entrance to coastalinspired grand white exteriors and golden orange interiors. The pool looks out to the beach, making for a stay that emphasises sun, sand and sea.

Dream Hollywood, by Hyatt Located between Sunset and Hollywood Boulevards, this movie-worthy stay feels at the centre of it all. The rooftop pool and restaurant boast views of the Hollywood sign, Los Angeles skyline and mountains. Rooms light orange with sunset, and under the festoons of Dream Rooftop the short rib/ brisket blend burger steals the show.

Madonna Inn A legend in San Luis Obispo, over-thetop eccentric charm and quirkiness are celebrated here. Resembling a castle, each room is uniquely themed. The restaurant fills with customers dressed up, matching the extravagant vibrant chandeliers and pink velvet seats, as they savour a large slice of the famous and fluffy pink Champagne cake.

Vespera Resort on Pismo Beach, Autograph Collection Sitting on what feels like an undiscovered stretch of Pismo Beach, this coastal beach-house-like haven is the perfect place to unwind. The smell of crisp, fresh sea air is the first thing you’ll notice, followed by relaxing music echoing from the pool overlooking serene waters.

U N I TE D STATE S

Hyatt Regency San Francisco An ultra-modern, expansive lobby and glass elevators lead to rooms with exceptional bay views in the heart of the Financial District. Part of the San Francisco skyline since 1973, everything here feels grand – the rooms, the views and a rotating rooftop lounge.

Kimpton Alton Fisherman's Wharf, an IHG Hotel Overlooking Fisherman’s Wharf, this upscale stay is home to ABACÁ, a contemporary Filipino-Californian restaurant, which created the yuzu flat white, the best coffee in San Francisco. Inspired by Australian coffee, the black cardamom balances the yuzu’s sweetness, and the white chocolate shines so all ingredients are heightened.

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B EST K NOWN F O R :

World-class beaches

– Wine country

Celebrity

The sunny optimism surrounding California beaches is unlike anywhere else. Over 1,350 kilometres of sand are filled with shops, food stalls, dancers and beach volleyballers. At Huntington Beach, known as Surf City USA, waves break around the pier, while hordes of surfers, surf schools, and even dogs catch consistent waves. Surfing is a religion here.

As the world’s fourth-largest wine producer with some of America’s most revered wine regions, California is synonymous with world-renowned pours. Responsible for roughly 81 per cent of wine production in the United States, coastal hills and inland valleys provide unique growing conditions, meaning the state cultivates over 100 grape varieties. Cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay are California’s stars, both bold and fruitforward – a staple for the industry.

California is synonymous with chasing big dreams. A place of new beginnings and opportunity, the concept of the “California Dream” has long represented ambition and fame. Hollywood, since the early 1900s, has been flocked to by those following their film and television dreams. Today, it’s the heart of the industry – home to film studios, record labels and award shows.

Walk past the “End of the Trail” Route 66 sign at Santa Monica Beach to find a pier of rides, gift shops and diners. Freshly squeezed lemonade is sold to those in line for one of 12 rides. Boardwalk cafes, gift shops, budding musicians and street performers make a thriving atmosphere at Venice Beach, home to Venice Skate Park and the famous Muscle Beach, where the likes of Arnold Schwarzenegger have trained.

Napa Valley, home to over 400 wineries, is renowned for cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and merlot. Sextant Wines in Paso Robles’ pinot and chardonnay have a crème brulee finish, and the Kamal Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon beat a $250,000 pour in a blind-tasting competition.

It is easy to be starstruck by the sheer celebrity of it all, as A-listers shop at local grocers, lounge in dive bars and cheer alongside passionate fans at a packed, electrifying LA Lakers NBA game. With Los Angeles immortalised in film and television, and the Hollywood Walk of Fame quite literally at your feet, a trip to California guarantees a brush with celebrity.

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I N SI D E R

OUT & ABOUT Take a Lowrider tour of Los Angeles In the passenger seat of a baby blue 1964 Impala Lowrider, smooth leather, open skies and a premium sound system set the tone for a timeless, low-to-the-ground tour through Los Angeles. Cruise in style with Lowrider Tours through Venice and Santa Monica Beach, along Rodeo Drive and into Beverly Hills.

Hike the Hollywood sign Although the Hollywood sign towers over Los Angeles, hiking trails through Griffith Park are quiet and relaxing. Sage and wildflowers scent the air as you pass goats, art installations and mansions. At the summit, Los Angeles looks back at you, and it feels like you’re on top of the world.

Take a horseback ride at Santa Margarita Ranch Creek crossings and open mountains on horseback resemble stepping straight into the Old West. At the familyrun Central Coast Trailrides, a friendly horse waits for you at the 14,000-acre working cattle Santa Margarita Ranch. Gallop wide fields and golden hills alongside deer, wild turkey, cows and scurrying squirrels.

T HE S U R P R I S I NG T HI NG :

California offers a vision of the future In Los Angeles and San Francisco, it’s like living in the future, ordering a selfdriving car and getting food delivered by a beeping robot. Home to tech genius and innovation, it feels normal to locals. The newest addition, Waymo, is nervewracking until it isn’t. The self-driving white Jaguars, with roof racks of cameras and spinning sensors, are robot-powered and unlocked by a few taps on your phone. Beginning as an experiment to

make roads safer without human error, public rides began in 2024. Now, they’re everywhere, and provide a glimpse into what may be possible worldwide one day. As the wheel turns on its own, it’s surreal not having a driver. A screen shows you a map of the ride, and sensors include figures representing pedestrians on and off the sidewalk. You’d be right to be cautious, but after the Waymo slows over speed bumps and never speeds, you

become convinced of the natural driving and safety of the ride. On sidewalks, food delivery robots beep through crowds, using sensors and artificial intelligence to deliver food with the goal of sustainability and convenience. With names and faces, they’ve become a part of the urban landscape, a glimpse into what the future of technology could do for us.

U N I TE D STATE S

FAMI LY AFFA IR:

Hit the road on an intergenerational road trip

Bike across the Golden Gate Bridge

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It’s windy, but breathtaking views of San Francisco, Alcatraz Island and the Pacific Ocean make biking the Golden Gate Bridge worth it. There’s no shortage of e-bike rentals at Blazing Saddles, so pedal through the beachfront Crissy Field, journey atop the giant and end at the charming waterfront town of Sausalito.

Catch the show Dear San Francisco An acrobatic circus show, Dear San Francisco is a high-flying, emotional love letter to the city at the historic Club Fugazi. An intimate audience gasps at stunts as dancers perform cirquestyle flips in what feels like a revolutionary storytelling of how San Francisco, known for its welcoming culture, shaped them.

Explore Sensorio When the sun sets in Paso Robles, Sensorio lights up. Colourful pathways and local orchestral pieces blend art, technology and nature at California’s largest immersive art exhibition. One of seven exhibits, at Field of Light, 100,000 solar-powered lights mimic colourful desert wildflowers over rolling hills, for a dreamy and magical night.

California feels custom-made for family road trips. The best way to see California is on the open road with its blend of laid-back towns and bustling cities for the family to enjoy. In just one day, watch the sun rise over the ocean, wander through vineyards at a world-class winery and explore lush national parks. In Los Angeles, cruise along palm-lined streets before journeying up the coast. On the wide open road, Santa Barbara’s seaside paradise is a 1.5 hour drive away. Wrapped in red-tiled roofs, it has a Mediterranean feel with small-world charm. Just 40 minutes up the coast is the Danish Capital of America, Solvang. Windmills and cobblestone streets might make you mistake it for a sun-drenched corner of Denmark. Kids will delight in the tasty butter cookies from Olsen’s Danish Village Bakery and enjoy a ride through town on the Solvang Trolley. Driving up the 101, as El Camino Real mission bells line the historic route, the air fills with the smell of the salty freshness from Pismo Beach. A coastal hideaway, this expansive stretch of quiet beach makes for a relaxing stay. Thursday nights host over 100 vendors at the five-blocklong San Luis Obispo Farmers' Market. Humble Oven’s wood-fired pizza stall serves a mouthwatering sliced focaccia and a homemade ranch dip. With no drive-through establishments, San Luis Obispo relishes in the old-school with historic charm and slow living. The nearby Paso Robles is a hidden gem of over 200 wineries. Two hours north is the coastal town of Monterey, perfect for a fresh seafood lunch at Paluca Trattoria on Old Fisherman's Wharf, where the television show Big Little Lies was filmed. Another two-hour picturesque drive between redwoods and mountains leads to San Francisco. Entry is windy and steep, but this iconic city provides the grand finale for an unforgettable family road trip.

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EXPLORE AUSTRALIA’S FINEST WINE REGIONS WITHOUT LEAVING HOME

PREMIUM, HAND-SELECTED AUSTRALIAN WINES DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR

HERE & FAR

On Niyama Private Islands Resort a more adventurous Maldives awaits

78 / Our list of 2026’s destination underdogs

88 / Surf ’s up at this Maldives resort with a difference

98 / I spy, a Lombok villa worthy of James Bond

106 / Take a walk with us through Vienna’s history

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H E R E A N D FA R

ALMOST FAMOUS

2 0 2 6 H OT L I ST

Make this new year the one where you explore parts of the world that you have never seen before. From Palau to Palawan, Tunisia to Taipei, these are the destinations ready to step into the spotlight in 2026.

DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

H E R E A N D FA R

For lovers of: underwater adventures and WWII history; Palau is like Fiji minus the package tourists.

Palau has never been easier to get to from Australia following the launch of direct weekly Qantas flights from Brisbane in December 2024. Visitor numbers have since increased by 113 per cent, so go now before the rest of the world catches on. If you were to take the floating mountains of Pandora, made famous in the film Avatar, and plonk them on top of a turquoise lagoon sheltering one of the most biodiverse coral reefs on the planet, you’d have Palau. This Micronesian island nation of more than 300 tropical isles is a SCUBA diver’s paradise, with a storied history and a UNESCO World Heritage listing to boot. Why now? Palau is about 15,000 kilometres east of the Philippines on the periphery of the Coral Triangle – home to the highest concentration of marine life on earth. What this means is more fish than you can poke a snorkel at, as well as manta rays, turtles, dolphins, dugongs and whale sharks – all protected by one of the world’s largest marine sanctuaries. Hovering above the water are the World Heritage-listed Rock Islands, a sprinkling of 445 uninhabited coralline isles that sprout from the sea like mushrooms. The densely forested islands are teeming with native birds and pockmarked with hidden marine lakes, including Jellyfish Lake/Ongeim’l Tketau – at its peak heaving with 12,000 harmless golden jellyfish you can snorkel with. Kayaking around the limestone islands – nibbled by the sea and skittering with crabs – is just as thrilling as exploring beneath the waterline.

On dry land, Palau has a fascinating and complex history to discover. On the largest island of Babeldaob, you can tour Badrulchau, an ancient archaeological site of stone monoliths dating from 150 AD. In the cultural village of Airai, see a bai – a traditional meeting place of village chiefs decorated with pictographs. Visit the house of parliament and learn about Palau’s struggle for independence (achieved in 1994), following more than a century of Spanish, German, Japanese and US rule. On the tiny island of Peleliu, tour one of the best-preserved battlefields of WWII. The little-known island was almost wiped off the map during Japanese–US combat in 1944. Tour the bunkers, armaments, crumbling fortifications and limestone tunnels where Japanese forces hid during the bombardment, considered one of the fiercest battles in the Pacific campaign. Catherine Best

IMAGES: (LEFT TO RIGHT) SSTK 4K, KKKVINTAGE /SHUTTERSTOCK.COM.

01 PALAU

2 0 2 6 H OT L I ST

THIS PAGE, FROM LEFT: Palau has a complex and fascinating history and these beautiful islands are home to the highest concentration of marine life on earth.

DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

H E R E A N D FA R

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THIS PAGE: the Gladiator-worthy ruins of El Gem. OPPOSITE: Tunisia is home to exquisite mosaics (top); and was the inspiration for the planet Tattooine in Star Wars.

2 0 2 6 H OT L I ST

02 TUNISIA For lovers of: Morocco, without the crowds.

Petite Tunisia packs all the goodness of North Africa into one neat bundle. Come for the wild and vast Sahara, for the sandy beaches fringed by the glittering Mediterranean Sea, or to place your hands on the warm, 1000-year-old walls of the knotted medinas that form the core of each of Tunisia’s major cities. Here, you’ll wander the Gladiator-worthy Roman ruins of El Gem, lose yourself like Indiana Jones did in the labyrinthine sixth-century city of Kairouan or maybe whip out your light sabre: the vast salt lakes and narrow canyons of southern Tunisia still ring with the excitement of Star Wars, which saw several movies in the epic shot here. The Mos Espa spaceport of the desert planet of Tatooine still stands today amidst the sand dunes of real-life Tataouine – albeit with more camels. Why now? Located halfway between the tourism powerhouses of north Africa (Morocco and Egypt), Tunisia dances to the much slower beat of its own goatskin drum. In the most relaxed and progressive of the Muslim countries, you can watch the sun set over the capital Tunis’ 7thcentury medina from a rooftop bar with shots of boukha, the country’s signature fig brandy. Otherwise, go full desert rat in style at Anantara Sahara Tozeur Resort & Villas, for a stylish Saharan sojourn. Whatever your itinerary, make time for a morning’s steam and soak in a communal hammam (bathhouse), and an afternoon at Tunis’s outstanding Bardo museum. When they packed up and left in the fifth century, the occupying Romans generously left a trove of exquisite mosaics, and the Bardo holds the world’s largest collection of these ornate beauties. If too many tiles are never enough, spend the night in one

of the capital’s lustrous dars, the Tunisian version of a Moroccan riad, such as Palais Bayram or Dar el Jeld, both deep in Tunis’ UNESCO-listed medina. Being a country on the crossroads from sub-Saharan Africa up to Europe, life hasn’t always run smoothly for Tunisians. Beset by slave traders, Roman outposts, Barbary pirates and colonising empires of all persuasions, their defence is embedded – literally – in the landscape. The south is dotted with cave villages either carved high into the Saharan Atlas mountains, or excavated and reached by tunnels below ground, shielded from the heat and enemy eyes. Many are open to visitors to stay, to eat or to sip short, sweet tea. A morning spent watching sunlight spill over the magnificent flat-topped mesas of the Tunisian Sahara cements this history-laden little country into my traveller’s heart.

Belinda Jackson

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03 ECUADOR

For lovers of: unexpected surprises; a different South America. Everyone knows about the Galapagos Islands. Charles Darwin made sure of that when he formulated his evolutionary theories around natural selection. However, few travellers realise that the wildlife-rich archipelago belongs to Ecuador, one of South America’s smallest countries.

To reach the Galapagos, visitors must fly in from the capital, Quito (see “For the lava god” page 18), or from coastal Guayaquil, Ecuador’s largest city. And while that may require spending a night or two in those cities, the rest of mainland Ecuador often gets overlooked. Big mistake.

Why now? Quito was the first city on earth to attain UNESCO’s World Heritage status and it’s not the only Ecuadorian township that’s recognised by UNESCO, either. The other is Cuenca, a bohemian city of half a million people. The two – Quito and Cuenca – bookend a touring route known as the Avenue of Volcanoes. Though it sounds like it was dreamed up by marketing executives, the name was actually given to it by a German explorer in 1802. Craggy Andean peaks line a highway that stretches between the two cities for 500 kilometres. Included is the perfectly symmetrical Cotopaxi. At 5900 metres above sea level, it’s

the world’s highest active volcano; it’s summit is permanently crowned by snow. Wrapped inside a national park that doubles as a refuge for condors, vicuñas (relatives of llamas) and wild brumbies, among a trio of smaller – yet easily distinguishable – volcanoes, it’s a popular area for nature walks and horseback rides. Thrill-seekers can even tear down the slopes of Cotopaxi on a mountain bike. One rung down on the altitude scale is where you’ll find Ecuador’s cloud forests. Nourished by low-hanging mists dropping bucketloads of rain, the jungled slopes provide the perfect habitat for an exotic collection of birds and butterflies, as well

as the odd puma or spectacled bear. Lower down again, the Amazon basin is equally blessed with birdlife, in addition to jaguars and caimans. Unlike Peru, where the best way to explore the world’s most extensive rainforest is via river cruises, lodge-based explorations are more common here. There’s also an increased focus on indigenous community experiences. So, there you have it. And still, there is so much more, like beaches and markets, world-class accommodation and food offerings, and Incan ruins. Just remember that before you book your next Galapagos holiday. Mark Daffey

IMAGES: (LEFT TO RIGHT) FABRICIO BURBANO, JON CHICA PARADA /SHUTTERSTOCK.COM.

THIS PAGE, FROM LEFT: Quito is one of the highest cities in the world; pastelcoloured houses.

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IMAGES: NORFOLK IS TOURISM.

For lovers of: nature and nature-based activities… and history, of course.

THIS PAGE: Norfolk Island has some of the best beaches in the world.

Surely, we all know by now that Norfolk Island was once home to the most brutal penal institution in Australia’s 237-year-old European history? For decades, the emphasis on the island’s prison history for tourists – complete with re-enactments by amateur local actors within the prison – made Norfolk Island the kind of destination probably best suited to your parents. But no more. Norfolk Island is cool now. You should know that those prison ruins are actually set on the edge of a stunning bay (Emily Bay), beside a long silica sand beach, where there’s fantastic snorkelling, and diving (there’s over 30 dive sites around the island). There’s surfing too – this being one of Australia’s least heralded surfing destinations. Why now? There’s actually a bit of everything here, and yet its neighbour, Lord Howe Island, attracts all the plaudits. But Norfolk Island is every bit as dreamy. There’s bays here where no-one ever goes beside hiking trails set on the precipice of steep coastlines leading to rock pools along the water’s edge. The island even has its own version of the 12 Apostles: distinctive rock stacks along the island’s rugged northern coastline, which you can only reach by boat or kayak. There are farm-to-table restaurants now where eateries once just served fish and chips (The Homestead is the best of them, run by long-time local, and former Longrain Sydney and Lock Stock & Barrel star chef, Kurt Menghetti). Plus a winery, coffee plantation, and local produce outlets all over the island. Yet perhaps the best feature of all, still, is that everything’s set within a friendly community of locals who wave as you pass them by – interesting characters there are too, many of them descendants of the Bounty mutineers who came here from Pitcairn Island in the 1850s (they even have their own language: Norfuk). Australian travellers are beginning to look a little closer to home and Norfolk Island is close enough to feel like home, and yet it only takes a day here to know this island isn’t really anything like home. While it’s an external territory of Australia – you won’t need a passport to get here – Norfolk Island marks the western edge of the South Pacific Islands and feels every bit as exotic. Craig Tansley

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05 PALAWAN

PHILIPPINES

For lovers of: natural wonder and luxury all to one’s self.

Consistently topping lists as the World’s Best Island, Palawan’s crystalline waters and palm-lined shores have long been synonymous with the distinct dichotomy of either ultra-luxury seclusion or backpacking adventure. Today, the island province is experiencing a renaissance, with classic resorts being lovingly reimagined and a wave of fresh boutique stays blending artisanal design with sustainability and soul. Contrary to what some might imagine, Palawan is far from a tiny tropical escape. The entire province stretches over 430 kilometres, comprising one large island and a cluster of 1,700 smaller islands and islets, each with its own unique character. What once felt remote is now easier to explore, thanks to new airports and affordable seaplane transfers that have rendered more of the province accessible.

THIS PAGE: Palawan’s palm-lined shores are topping lists of the world’s best island destination.

Why now? Palawan’s capital, Puerto Princesa, is known for the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Subterranean River National Park, an underground river complex that can be explored by boat. It’s also the gateway to pristine dive sites and lush mangrove forests. Further north lies El Nido, a stunning seascape of dramatic limestone karsts and turquoise lagoons. For thrill-seekers, Coron is the preferred destination, with its spectacular WWII shipwrecks and the pristine marine life of Apo Reef offering experienced divers an unforgettable expedition. To the east, the Cuyo Archipelago is a string of islands with blindingly white sands and Rothkoesque waters where the Sulu Sea meets the horizon. In recent years, Palawan has surged with new energy, especially around El Nido, which is a hub for artisans, digital nomads and creatives. El Nido town offers travellers charming boutique hotels: think

whitewashed adobe walls and thatched roofs set to electro-tribal beats, swaying palms and sunset cocktails. The well-heeled will appreciate the just-renovated Lagen Island by El Nido Resorts, a luxurious blend of local craftsmanship and contemporary design paired with the brand’s signature Filipino warmth and hospitality. Other resort classics have something new to offer as well. Amanpulo recently upgraded some of its beach casitas into coveted, secluded pool villas, and Club Paradise Coron refurbished its iconic sunset villas with sleeker amenities. While the youngest of them all, Banwa Private Island, opened in 2019 with just six villas, it embodies exclusivity and privacy, making it an idyllic destination for weddings, honeymooners or intimate celebrations. At the heart of all these developments, Palawan remains deeply committed to conservation and sustainability. Determined

not to repeat the mistakes of its flashier big brother, Boracay, collective efforts from both the private and public sectors are ensuring the preservation of the island’s greatest treasure: its precious and unique natural heritage. El Nido Resorts continues to champion low-impact experiences such as hiking and snorkelling while banning motorized water sports. Amanpulo’s sea turtle nesting and hatching program remains a highlight, allowing fortunate guests to witness the seasonal ceremonious release of hatchlings into the ocean. With over 44,500 hectares of mangrove forests, 379 species of coral and 279 bird species, many of which are endemic to Palawan, the island province retains its status as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Beneath its hospitality renaissance, the islands’ wild heart continues to pulse with a renewed fervour. Stephanie Zubiri

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Other 2026 hotspots

B O STO N, U NI T ED STATES

TAIWAN One dubbed “Beautiful Island” by early sailors, Taiwan might have a great city scene (see Capella Taipei, page 38) but its natural beauty also shines. This tropical volcanic island has forest and gorges to explore with hiking a huge local activity. And maybe that is to walk off all the calories because Taiwanese food is worth a visit all on its own. Try re-interpreted regional Chinese dishes, night market street food and even strong Japanese flavours after a long tenure with Japan colonising the island.

SICILY, I TALY

IMAGES: (LEFT TO RIGHT, TOP TO BOTTOM) PATRICK FOTO, SLSK PHOTOGRAPHY, DALIU, SEAN PAVONE /SHUTTERSTOCK.COM. (MIDDLE, BOTTOM) STÉPHANE MAILION PHOTOGRAPHY.

Yes, many travellers have given Italy the boot due to crowds, high prices and some of the top destinations (see Venice) becoming tourist unfriendly. But this is where the island of Sicily comes in. Yes, it has had it’s The White Lotus close-up but much of it remains relatively unexplored, even the capital of Palermo (see One Night In… page 30).

MAL AYS I A It has a food culture to rival Singapore and Thailand, big city fun with shopping and megamalls and pristine wilderness in Borneo that is unmatched in the rest of Asia. Malaysia is far too often overlooked but Kuala Lumpur has luxury stays like EQ that tower over streets of city fun and island delights like the Datai Langkawi.

D OHA , QATAR

Not only is this US city co-hosting the 2026 FIFA World Cup, but it is also one of the very important cities that will be partying to celebrate the 250th anniversary of the creation of the United States. This gritty city has always had a rebellious streak from the moment the American colonists protested British colonisation by dumping tea crates into Boston Harbor. Now you see it in things like cutting-edge cuisine, galleries like the ICA Boston and gamechanging stays like Raffles Boston.

Doha made a splash with the 2022 FIFA World Cup, but the desert city remains a draw for travellers who want to experience some authentic Middle Eastern experiences. Stay in the old market at the Souq Waqif Hotel where stalls of camels sit at the end of your street, visit the IM Pei-designed Museum of Islamic Art or National Museum of Qatar which is memorably designed to look like a naturally occurring sand formation known as the “desert rose”.

S R I L ANK A Safaris are different in this island nation where you can seek elephants and leopards in the sparsely beautiful Yala National Park. They are more compact, more relaxed and you are never very far away from some amazing food. Famous Sri Lankan restaurant Ministry of Crab recently landed in Melbourne but there is far more to this spicy but fresh cuisine from hoppers (fermented rice pancakes) to kotthu (which replaces noodles with chopped roti in a stir fry).

TAHI T I This Polynesian paradise is often overlooked for islands that are easier to get to but the beauty of this part of French Polynesia is worth the extra effort. There is a lot going on in Tahiti in 2026: new premium accommodation will see the former Le Méridien in Punaauia become Tahiti Lagoon Resort; Ponant will introduce a new ship, Le Jacques Cartier, to cruise the cerulean seas; and Sofitel Moorea will emerge from a major renovation at the end of the year.

M AU R I T I U S This overlooked African island can see you trek Le Morne Brabant’s storied slopes, or wander Bel Ombre Nature Reserve, just moments away. Stay at the Sofitel SO Mauritius and you can celebrate local flavours at the beachfront La Plage, or graze on international favourites at Le Flamboyant, perched by the glistening infinity pool. After exploring, indulge in bespoke rituals at SO Spa, or simply float in the panga-knife-shaped pool, surrounded by swaying palms.

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ADVENTURE ISLANDS

M AL DI V E S

The Maldives may be known for its extravagant indulgence, but Matt Shea travels to this Indian Ocean paradise to discover a pair of resorts offering a more active side of paradise with wild manta ray encounters, free-diving and surfing lessons.

OPPOSITE: a couple walk along the pristine white sand of Niyama Private Islands Resort. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Niyama Private Islands Resort has all the trimmings of the Maldives but a more active bent; sunrise from a villa; a beach villa from above.

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THIS PAGE: the writer followed manta rays in the waters around Eydhafushi atoll in the Maldives. OPPOSITE: the exterior of the restaurant at Avani-Fares resort in the Maldives.

IMAGE: (LEFT) KAPHOTOGRAPHY – STOCK.ADOBE.COM.

MAYBE IT’S not GOING TO HAPPEN.

M AL DI V E S

For 45 minutes the search has been on across Hanifaru Bay, our Avani-Fares dive boat just one vessel in a small flotilla drawn from different resorts spotted around the Eydhafushi atoll. The water is a rich royal blue, the sands that frame Dhonfanu town and neighbouring Kihaadhuffaru island with its towering palm trees and lush rainforest, a brilliant white. Still, there are no signs of the manta rays. So many travel to the Maldives to witness these awesome creatures, and so many never see them. We’d set off in the morning with that very much in mind, yet I sit with my fingers crossed all the same. Our crew line the bow and stern, staring across the water. The dive leader pulls a cellphone from his pocket and dials his colleagues from the other boats. What have they heard? What have they seen? The boats drift together and the crews call out to each other in their native Dhivehi. Our dive leader turns to us. “It doesn’t look like they’re here,” he says. “But there’s one more spot we can try.”

The skipper opens the throttle, the boat surges. Ten minutes later and the water is shallower and an intense, clear turquoise. The engines cut out. Silence. I idly watch one of the crew members on the port side of the boat. Slowly, hesitantly, he begins to raise an arm, then snaps it straight. “There!” he shouts. At his shoulder, we see it immediately, a shining black shape cutting through the waves. Then it’s gone. But there’s no doubt – it’s a manta. We pile into the water. Fumbling with my mask, I peer across the surface of the sea. Nothing. I lower my head into the water and see a thick school of luminescent damselfish slowly spiralling in front of me. Then, they snap left and right to reveal two enormous manta rays – maybe two or three metres wide – gliding straight towards me. I freeze. They keep coming and coming, their enormous rectangular maws wide open. Just as I’m about to panic, they turn, effortlessly, and float by, close enough to touch.

Finally, I remember to breathe. In the excitement, my snorkel has slipped under the waves and I suck in a mouthful of seawater. I surface, spluttering, smiling and then laughing. For the next half hour we tread about amid an enormous squadron of mantas as they scoop up the rich zooplankton essential to their diet. We don’t know where to turn next. They split past and swoop below, as uninterested in us as we are awestruck by them. The very last ray I see is the largest. It looms into view below me. From above, its span looks close to four metres. I stare after it long after it’s disappeared into the gloom. We clamber back onto the boat, tired, exhilarated. This manta ray experience is one of the calling cards of Avani-Fares, which occupies a former coconut plantation 136 kilometres north of the Maldivian capital, Male. But this is far from its only virtue. You could go there and happily never spot a single ray.

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THIS PAGE: Charcoal restaurant at Avani-Fares resort. OPPOSITE: Avani-Fares has big draws like mantas and whale sharks in Hanifaru Bay.

M AL DI V E S

BEACH shack CHIC

Stay at Avani-Fares

We arrived by seaplane the previous day, swooping in across Baa Atoll, to discover a beguiling resort hidden among the palm trees. “Hanifaru Bay and the mantas and the whale sharks are a massive pull for people, for sure,” Avani-Fares general manager Judd Rabbidge says. “But there are other things that make us unique. The Baa Atoll is a UNESCO biosphere reserve and where we are, on the very western edge, you don’t see other boats, you don’t see the shipping lanes. “It’s very quiet and the marine life comes right in.” Fares is barely two years old, and it feels like it. Its 176 villas, rooms and pavilions are meticulously designed and immaculately appointed. We’re greeted at the jetty and whisked to our beachside villa by golf cart to discover a precisely presented little hideaway that splits the difference between inside and outside

living. Indoors it’s a winsome mix of timber floors, weatherboard walls painted a rich blue, and yellow highlights. Out front, there’s a spacious deck and plunge pool shaded by the surrounding palms, and our own beach access. Out back, there’s a spacious outdoor tub and shower. It’s clever, purposeful design and, most of all, homely – imagine your grandparents’ old beach shack given a flash do-over. “The accommodation fits with Avani’s place as an upscale lifestyle brand,” Judd says. “It’s a quiet luxury. You don’t need to wear your Louis Vuittons to the pool. And it’s about lifestyle events and activations. We’re hosting the first-ever music festival in the Maldives next year [Your Paradise Music Festival on May 20].” Fares is also about wellness. And we’re not just talking morning yoga and a treatment at Avani spa (although we do both, and both are excellent). On our third morning we meander

through the rainforest to meet free diver and ocean conservationist Hanli Prinsloo. Hanli has a morning mapped out for us that includes a free-diving lesson a couple of hundred metres off the resort. But first, she says, is a breathwork session, where she explains the techniques that have allowed her to break 11 South African free-diving records. This all has the whiff of hard work, but the charismatic Hanli effortlessly explains the diaphragmatic breathing that’s key to free diving – how it promotes relaxation by lowering the heart rate. Later, we apply her lessons to the dive rope, with a persistent current adding to the challenge. I do better than some, others better than me, but we all return to the jetty with a sense of achievement and a clearer picture of why Hanli advocates so hard for the sport’s capacity to shape both yourself and your understanding of the ocean.

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M AL DI V E S

THIS SPREAD: taking time out to relax at Niyama Private Islands Resort.

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CHILL and PLAY Her philosophies stick with us as we clamber back aboard the seaplane the next morning and begin our journey south, bouncing through Male and onto Niyama Private Islands Maldives. Niyama, like Fares, is a Minor Hotels resort, but you’d almost hesitate to call them sister properties, they’re that different. Niyama is more expansive, its two islands – connected by a short bridge – both much larger than Fares, and both, cleverly, given their own theme. Chill, the northern island, is all about your more typical Maldivian attractions: spa sessions and snorkelling and dining. Play is home to Niyama’s more adventurous side. On the first night, surf development director Nate Kemp suggests we meet at Surf Shack, a beach bar on the southern tip of Play. What to some countries is surf, is to Australians often little more than the waves we used to make at bathtime. But rounding the low-set headland, we realise the emphasis in Surf Shack is very much on “Surf”. In the beautiful, dewy tropical twilight, a perfectly formed barrel, maybe seven or eight feet, rolls past us. And then another. And another. Nate explains that there’s a swell right now, but that waves here typically range between three and five feet. He’s from Orange County, about as far away as you can get from the Maldives, but you understand why he decided to stay.

“I was in the water for maybe eight hours today,” he says. “The swell’s only going to get bigger in the next few days.” I smile and nod, but my knees begin to tremble. We’re booked in for a surf lesson the following afternoon. I needn’t have been concerned. The next day our Australian instructor, Kym Everett, marches us back around the head, boards under our arms, to a more sheltered spot on the reef. Kym is a real tough-love type and drills us endlessly on the beach until he’s happy with our technique. And it pays off. I’ve surfed just once before – another lesson – and on that occasion I got to my feet just the once. This time, I manage it all but once, and, gliding towards Niyama’s golden sands and glimmering rainforest, it’s a blast. By the end of the lesson, I’m already comfortable with leaning this way and that, directing my board. I emerge from the water all smiles, Kym slapping me on the back. That play–chill philosophy of Niyama sets a gentle rhythm for our stay. We surf, and then head over the bridge to catch the resort speedboat to overwater fine diner Edge and underwater Nikkei restaurant Subsix – the former for dinner, the latter for lunch – for two of the most precise resort dining experiences I’ve had in a long time. Or, we check in for a series of spa treatments at the beguiling Drift Spa, with its botanical garden-like digs and beachside massage rooms, before climbing two floors up into Play’s jungle-like canopy for Nest, an open-air

teppanyaki restaurant where the setting is as inventive as the food. In-between times, we sink into our expansive beachside villa. Recently refurbished (the resort is close to completing a lengthy renovation process), it’s split between a family room and an enormous bedroom, with a beautifully landscaped open-air bathroom, bordered by a garden and water feature, out back. Out front is a plunge pool and direct access to the beach with its sweeping views north of the island. It amounts to a very different experience to Fares but as we get around Niyama in our golf cart or the neat cruiser bicycles the resort has supplied, waving to guests, staff and sundry, it occurs to us what’s the same: the people. “I wouldn’t have been here so long if the team wasn’t so good,” Niyama’s marketing and communication manager Anjelee Dabydoyal tells me later. “Our general manager, Haf [Al Busaidy] wants the whole team to be happy in such a way that you feel free, because it’s going to project in your work. “Guests really feel that. People love that they come, they feel at home, they really feel at ease.” Home is somewhere you’re comfortable, you feel known – somewhere you let your shoulders loosen. It’s also somewhere you look forward to returning. And we’re already planning our next visit to Fares and Niyama.

Stay at Niyama

THIS PAGE: one of the key activities at Niyama Private Islands Resort is learning to surf, thanks to some great waves available just offshore (left); Niyama’s Nest teppanyaki restaurant. OPPOSITE: a garden massage at the Drift Spa at Niyama Private Islands Resort.

PHOTOGRAPHY XXX.

M AL DI V E S

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Licence to chill High in the hills of Kuta in Lombok is Villa Skyfall, a James Bond-themed residence that is so over-thetop indulgent it would suit either 007 or one of his felinestroking nemeses. Paul Chai checks in to the top spot on the Indonesian island.

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If you are going to hatch a nefarious plan to take over the world, there are worse places to do so than poolside at Villa Skyfall Lombok. There are shades of super-villain hideout in the position, teetering on the top of a mountain like a spinning plate in a circus act. The clues are there in the tropical minimalist style – imposing and uncluttered, open-plan and in thrall to the view. They are also reflected in your own dedicated staff who provide security, appear from a sliding door next to the kitchen to whisk away mess and can materialise private chefs and personal drivers with a single text. By the pool, the cloud-height outlook across Kuta – the twinkling lights of this surf town flickering on at sunset as a melodic call to prayer is carried on the wind – can go to your head. All I need is a white cat on my lap. But Villa Skyfall is far more hero than villain, the name and the decor honouring the world’s most famous fictional super spy: James Bond. “As a young boy growing up in Scotland, my father would take me to the cinema every time a new Bond film was released,” says Melbourne-based property developer Joe Cairns. “I was particularly captivated by Sean Connery’s swagger, sophistication and unmistakable Scottish charm. I wanted to create a villa that embodied the same elegance, intrigue and sophistication of the

THIS PAGE: the master bedroom has a commanding view across the town of Kuta; the breakout living space and dining area looking back onto the main living room. OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: the stairwell; Daniel Craig welcomes you; the balcony off the master bedroom; looking down on the infinity pool with the view.

Bond films in a location that offered breathtaking natural beauty, stunning vistas and dramatic sunsets.” Daniel Craig’s Skyfall silhouette greets you at the front door, the master bedroom has art dedicated to Bond’s famous Aston Martin, and a youthful, cheeky Roger Moore sips and smokes in a black-and-white photographic portrait in the hallway. Spend a few days at this most indulgent of Indonesian villas, the highest and brightest in Kuta, and you will emerge both shaken and stirred. “The island offers a relaxed pace, genuine local warmth, and amazing restaurants,” Joe says. “Every time we visit, there are new places to explore – boutique villas, vibrant cafes and commercial developments – a sign of the area’s momentum.”

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Experience Villa Skyfall

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Live and let dine Instead of world domination my mission is to wring as much fun out of Kuta as I can with my wife and two teen boys from this luxurious base and discover why this once-sleepy surfers’ paradise is seeing such an upswing in international visitors. Kuta is on the south of the island, just a short ride from Lombok airport but quite a distance from the more resort-heavy Senggigi to the northwest. You will still see plenty of surfboards strapped to the side of scooters as you zip through the streets, but you will also find upmarket restaurants and TikTok-worthy cafes, and you might walk past the secret entrance to a speakeasy that will make you forget you are a few hundred metres from the sand. It’s like someone took the best bits of Bali and hid them from the scooter hordes. That said, scooters are the main form of transport here, too, and they have been provided for us by Villa Skyfall. They are an easy way to explore, once you conquer the daunting Skyfall hill and its switchback road. Kuta is essentially a few intersecting streets with traditional warungs (family-run restaurants) jostling for space next to chic burger and pizza joints and modern marts towering over markets selling knock-off t-shirts on bamboo poles. Our first scooter excursion sees us giving way to a local street parade with families dressed in traditional outfits banging on hand-held drums. Milou Vermeek, partner in Kenza Hospitality Group, is at the forefront of Kuta’s burgeoning food scene. The group started with just one restaurant, El Bazar, in 2014 and now boasts multiple venues up and down Kuta’s main drag. Japanese-inspired cafe Kenza, the casual diner Pizza Shack and party spot Cantina Mexicana are just some of their offerings. “Kuta’s food scene is changing rapidly at the moment in response to the changing nature of visitors to Lombok,” says Milou. “Before we had backpackers and surfers and in the past five years we have more families, more luxury travellers and older travellers.” Milou traces the explosion in popularity back to the arrival of the Moto GP, which saw Lombok beamed onto television screens that showed the circuit’s proximity to the island’s beautiful beaches. For me the attraction is that Kuta has hit its development sweet spot. Like the second or third season of a TV show, it has ironed out the kinks of season one but has not yet become bloated and over complicated (no evil twins or waterskiing over sharks). You can get

dropped off anywhere along Kuta’s dusty main street and be metres from a killer night out. Night one, we hit Cantina Mexicana, a shed-like space strung with colourful bunting and fairy lights. Early evenings it caters to younger families, but we arrive later and things are starting to heat up, and not just on the chilli rim of my michelada. Milou says this venue came about by accident: a friend who cooked great Mexican just happened to be in town when they were looking to open a new place. He trained the staff and is now back in Bali. But the quality remains in a smoky mushroom-birria-topped nachos and chipotle chicken. The Baja fish tacos with chipotle mayo and mango salsa come ridiculously stacked and we enjoy a soundtrack of Latin tunes from the DJ booth, peppered with the toots from passing scooters like random whistles at a rave. After dinner we walk to Captikus Bar, a speakeasy decorated in bordello-red and black with an opium-den theme including some unique art that sees Benedict Cumberbatch transformed into a grinning geisha. Cocktails are Asian-themed and bold, so I forgo a martini and try a Rujak – tequila, sherry, pineapple, peanut, tamarind and chilli – made to taste like the local “salad” of the same name that sees fruits and vegetables tossed in a funky, shrimp-paste-andpeanut dressing. Night two we start at Pawon Nusantara, Kenza Group’s upmarket Indonesian restaurant with ornate tiles, tall doors framed by coloured glass and two huge carved wooden masks standing guard. We sit out on the terrace in the heavy Lombok night and order margaritas, Kura beers and softies. Milou says this type of restaurant was a missing piece in the dining scene and she has local chef’s researching meals from Bali and Java to ensure authenticity. We order her two recommendations: the beef rendang and ayam taliwang, a charred chicken dish with fried peanuts and sambal that is indigenous to the island. My youngest son goes sambal mad, ordering three small dishes of the chilli paste off the separate sambal menu – sambal balado from West Sumatra, sambal matah from Nusantara and a bright green sambal ijo – and happily stirs them all into his rice. Both times we end the night at Ketapang Beach Bar, a luridly neon-lit open-air drinking spot metres from Kuta Beach that has a live band every night on a rickety-looking stage and service that makes sure you always have a Bintang in front of you. Ketapang invokes the Asian travels of yesteryear for my wife and I with simple, cheap beers by the beach and the quirky covers and incredible musicianship that these house bands embody. Our music-loving kids are kept happy by the diversity of covers and happily shout out requests, with the eldest finally sneaking away and finding more youth-friendly surrounds. FROM TOP: cheers to a big night at Cantina Mexicana; a delicious steak at Kenza, the Japanese-inspired all-day cafe and diner from the hospitality group of the same name. OPPOSITE: Kenza Hospitality Group started with El Bazar restaurant in 2014 and the space has recently had a complete refit to keep up with the fast-changing food scene.

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From Kuta with love When back at Villa Skyfall, life falls into lazy holiday rhythms with a welcome touch of domesticity you don’t get in hotels. We scooter down for pastries in the morning, the teens make use of the gym, which comes with a sauna and an ice-cold plunge pool (I only manage to pop my head into the freezing water from outside the pool and still get an ice-cream headache). We read books on couches large enough for a football team and watch the flatscreen the size of a dining table. It’s both homey and crazily luxurious, a perfect mix for a family getaway. It’s the personal touches at Villa Skyfall that make you feel like you might be on her Majesty’s secret service yourself. The warm welcome where we are presented with fresh coconuts stamped with “Skyfall”, cracked open so you can drink the fresh coconut water; the assistance we get with working the scooters and the driving lessons in the villa courtyard before taking on the daunting hill; the team also organises in-house massages for us by the pool. The villa is so large we virtually have a wing each, but the various house factions come together around the infinity pool where the kids bomb their unsuspecting parents and we all take in the Kuta view. We are having one of our early-evening swims on our final night when we are treated to dinner by a local private chef.

The team arrives in the kitchen, splicing and dicing as we dress for dinner and staff serve the adults a bottle of white wine on the terrace off the master bedroom. When we are called to dinner we find the table filled with whole fish grilled with local spices, beef rendang, fried tempeh and coconut rice, and we all tuck in and share holiday stories. “I see Kuta as being the next great destination for those seeking luxury without the crowds,” says Joe. “It’s a place where adventure, culture and nature’s beauty come together.” We agree and – just like the famous tagline at the end of every James Bond film – we hope that we too “will return”.

Luxury Escapes Homes and villas A villa isn’t about just luxury – it’s about having the freedom to escape exactly how you want. Wake up late, cook your own meals, debate what movies to watch and board games to play. Our handpicked villas and homes give your family and friends the space to truly arrive, unwind and connect – without compromise.

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VIENNESE walks

VIENNA

IMAGES: (LEFT & RIGHT) MICHAEL WAPP & SERTS VIA GETTY IMAGES. (CENTRE) ÖSTERREICH WERBUNG, PHOTOGRAPHY PAUL BAUER.

Sure, the venerable Austrian city is most famous for its waltzes by composers like Mozart, Beethoven and local hero Strauss, but it is also a famously walkable city – a good pair of shoes is all you need to explore its rich history. Belinda Jackson discovers wild woodland, mesmerising museums and wonderful young wines on three walks around Vienna.

Neat and petite, Vienna is the perfect city for the flâneur, the traveller who loves a leisurely amble through the city streets, with a side of people-watching. From romps through emperor’s hunting grounds to a ramble through vineyards or a stroll between the architecture of empires, Vienna obliges. These three short two-hour walks are starting points for history, nature, gossip and wine; and for the footsore, there’s always a cafe, tram stop or würstelstand (sausage stand) nearby.

OPPOSITE: Karlskirche (St Charles’s Church) in Vienna, Austria, with its reflection in the water of the Karlsplatz. THIS PAGE FROM LEFT: walking Vienna is a great way to experience the city; the Austrian wineries of the Wachau region.

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A walk in the Wienerwald: Lainzer Tiergarten holds a special place in Austrian hearts. Strauss composed a waltz for the forest, Mozart, Beethoven and Franz Schubert were also inspired by what’s now a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Incredibly, this gentle landscape is the start of the Alps, which run westward from here across seven European countries. It’s a 10-minute walk from the Lainzer gate to the Tiergarten’s star attraction, Hermesvilla. The Emperor Franz Joseph called it a summerhouse; you and I would call it a palace, designed by the same architect responsible for some of the most elaborate buildings on the Ringstrasse, the ring road that encircles central Vienna. Completed in the 1880s as a gift for his wife, the Empress Sisi – who then didn’t care to use it – it’s open to visitors in the warmer months. From Hermesvilla, it’s a 25-minute walk to the landmark Rohrhaus, a rustic restaurant in the middle of the forest, which serves beer, goulash and boar burgers – possibly explaining why I’ve seen no wild pigs. From here, Sylvia and I continue to Wienerblick,

translates as “View of Vienna”, a name it lives up to. Here, we’ve a birds’-eye view of Vienna as we drink hot tea from Sylvia’s thermos with homemade biscuits she whipped up for us this morning. The panorama is a reward at the halfway point for our easy two-hour stroll on the eastern side of this urban wilderness. Exiting the Tiergarten at another of the woodland’s four gates, St. Veiter Tor, Sylvia has the perfect end to the walk. “Come, I’ll show you a traditional Viennese coffeehouse without all the influencers,” she promises. From the Tiergarten, she steers us to Café Dommayer in Hietzing, where we ogle exquisite, petite cakes as charming waiters in tuxedos graciously serve Wiener Melange (Vienna blend) coffee in a salon lined with red velvet. Bonus points, the cafe is just beside Schönbrunn Palace, whose vast grounds make for more excellent strolling through manicured gardens and on snowy woodland trails, no ticket required.

THIS PAGE: the Hermesvilla, a palace located in the Lainzer Tiergarten in Vienna is best explored on a walk through this beatiful woodland. OPPOSITE: a panoramic view of the Volksgarten (People’s Garden) in Vienna, Austria, with the Hofburg Palace complex in the background.

IMAGES: (LEFT TO RIGHT) ÖSTERREICH WERBUNG, PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLFRIED GREDLER-OXENBAUER, CHRISTIAN KREMSER, POPP & HACKNER & ULLI CECERLE-UITZ.

Mid-morning in mid-winter, as the frost melts from grassy roadsides, it’s the perfect day for a walk through Lainzer Tiergarten, the hunting grounds established by the Holy Roman Emperor Ferdinand I in 1561. Open to the public for the past century, the garden is home to up to a thousand wild boar that frolic wild and free in the park, alongside elk and fallow deer, and even some European mouflons – a horned feral sheep. At Lainzer Tor, one of the four gates leading into this 2,449-hectare woodland, I have a walking date with Silvia Schaffner (walkability.at). A walking guide, she runs private guided walks in Vienna including the Rundumadum, the 120-kilometre hiking trail that rings the city. It’s a bitterly cold day, and we’ve both donned our thermal leggings for a wander through the woods and up to exposed hilltops of this historic park. The word “Tiergarten” translates as “zoo”, but apart from a few fallow deer in an enclosure my walk through Lainzer Tiergarten is a boar-free zone. The woodland is part of the Wienerwald, or Viennese Woods, which

VIENNA

A walk through history: the Ringstrasse The beating heart of Vienna is its old town, the Innere Stadt, or the 1st District. It’s almost embarrassing the wealth of this enclave, a UNESCO World Heritage Site encircled by the Ringstrasse, a boulevard that curves 5.3km around the old city. While the Ringstrasse is a border that follows the ancient city walls, its two-hour walk takes you past many of Vienna’s hundred-plus museums. And why house a museum in a drab old building, when you can have cherubs and gargoyles, curlicues and cupolas, or a piece of statement architecture by the hottest architect of today? As a circular route, there’s no start-stop, and you can walk in either direction; the ring is dotted with tram stops and U-Bahn subway stations. I’m starting strong at what I think is the most beautiful section of the Ringstrasse, the Burgring. From the Volkstheatre U3 station, I walk to the Maria-Theresien-Platz to be immediately dwarfed by two historical heavyweights, the Kunsthistorisches (KHM) art and Naturhistorisches (NHM) national history museums. Both were built in the 1890s and both are fabulously ornate. Throughout December, the plaza between

them is transformed into one of Vienna’s busiest Christmas markets. Heading clockwise, you’ll pass the Parliament and Rathaus (City Hall); today, the Rathausplatz, the square in front of the hall, is transformed into a giant iceskating rink packed with expert Viennese skaters and wobbly out-of-towners (yes, me), gliding and drinking hot wine at all times of the day and evening. On the opposite side of the street, the free Volksgarten’s 3000 rose bushes are in full bloom from June to September. The University of Vienna is next on the circuit, then the unmistakable spires of the Votivkirche, the neo-Gothic church built as thanks to God for saving the life of Emperor Franz Joseph during an assassination attempt in 1853. Following the Schottenring section, you’ll eventually reach the Donaukanal, once an offshoot of the Danube. In summer, it’s a favourite bike and rollerblading route, when you can even dive into the canal. When you reach the Art Nouveau Urania observatory, it’s time to leave the canal and turn inland again, following the Stubenring toward the terracotta facades of the Italianate MAK Museum of Applied Art. Built in 1871,

it was modelled on the V&A Museum in London and was the first museum to open on the Ringstrasse. The walk moves onto the Stadtpark – say hi to Johann Strauss, Vienna’s Waltz king immortalised in the golden statue in the park. Keen to know more about him? It’s just a few minutes’ walk off the Ring at Karlsplatz to the new Johann Strauss Museum – New Dimensions, for a rollicking trot through the colourful composer’s life, complete with tales of lust, envy, fame and fortune. Back on course, the last of the great monuments on this epic walk is the Staatsoper, the Vienna State Opera, also home to the Vienna State Ballet. A few more steps along Opernring and you’re back at the start at Burgring. If you’re not footsore, continue the walk five minutes away into Hofburg palace, the home of the Habsburg dynasty and the heart of regal Vienna. Otherwise, you could take coffee in one of the city’s most beautiful cafes, inside the Kuntshistorisches Museum. Or simply make like a Viennese and grab a sausage from a würstelstand – your closest is a classic – Bitzinger – beside the Albertina museum.

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A walk amongst the vines: Grinzing to Kahlenberg 12th century, and into the vineyards that supply the heurigen. From here, our walk follows public walkways between the vines up to Vienna’s most famous hill, Kahlenberg, where the Holy Roman Empire – dominated by Austria – overthrew the Ottoman Empire in the Siege of Vienna in 1683. The locals like to say the Turks fled their camp on the fringe of the city, their morning fires still lit, the coffee still hot and brewing. “The Viennese took back their city, and also took the Turks’ coffee culture for their own – the ultimate win–win,” says my friend and walking companion Andrew, who grew up amongst these hills, soaking up the history. Short enough to do on Vienna’s brief winter days, when the icy paths demand a walking stick, we pass the signs for Krapfenwaldlbad open-air swimming pool, a popular spot

during Vienna’s surprisingly hot summers. Another path splinters off to the popular Heuriger Sirbu on Nussberg, the next hill over. In midwinter, the paths are quiet, but expect streams of walkers during the annual Wiener Weinwandertage (Vienna Wine Hiking Days) held annually in late September or early October. Our reward at Kahlenberg are the views over the city and the Danube River, spotting the ferries that run 80 kilometres downstream to the Slovak capital, Bratislava. Not wanting to retrace our steps (we’re actually in a hurry to hit Zum Martin Sepp and its perky, new season grüner veitliner) we jump the 38A bus which navigates the winding roads to drop us back at Grinzing’s tram stop, a minute’s walk to the heuriger, or a 27-minute tram ride back to the Innere Stadt.

Vienna’s newest hotels MANDAR I N O R I ENTAL , VI ENNA This hotel is housed in an Art Nouveau building in the Ringstrasse, a three-minute walk from Mozart Haus and then on to Vienna’s central square, Stephansplatz. There are 138 rooms and suites, a fine-dining restaurant as well as a brasserie and elegant cafe taking inspiration from Vienna’s renowned coffeehouse scene. HOT EL PAL AI S MAI L B ERG ER HOF The footprint of this hotel dates back to the 14th century and the 50-room hotel is a short walk to the Albertina and the Winer Staatsoper. During its life, the Baroque palace has been owned by the Knights of Malta, and its new renovation includes a vaulted champagne bar and tranquil courtyard.

FROM TOP: the walk from Grinzing to Kahlenberg passes pastel-coloured houses from the 12th century. Vienna is also home to modern new hotels like the Mandarin Oriental Vienna and the Hotel Palais Mailberger Hof. OPPOSITE: aerial view of the Danube River.

IMAGES: (LEFT) SILVIA EDER, (RIGHT) MDWORSCHAK – STOCK.ADOBE.COM.

To read Vienna’s heart, you need to consume coffee and grüner veitliner in equal measure, and this walk on its northern fringe obliges. Vienna is divided into 23 districts (bezirke), and as in Paris, they are numbered in a snaillike spiral. On the cusp of the Wienerwald, Döbling is Vienna’s 19th District and it is packed with young wine and old money. From Schottentor, we jump in the no. 38 tram to the prettiest little village in all Vienna: Grinzing. The first thing you’ll notice is Grinzing’s Gothic church, built in 1426, and the second is its heurigen, or wine taverns. Don’t be distracted just yet – with their warm fires, smorgasbords of roast pork and potatoes, and freepouring local wines, they’re easy to slip into, and very, very hard to leave. This uphill walk from the Grinzing tram stop takes you past the church and the pastel-coloured houses that date from the

VIENNA

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Why Khanh Ong can’t quit Italy We all have that magical destination that sees us return again and again. For chef and Luxury Escapes: The World’s Best Holidays presenter Khanh Ong it is Italy. He tells us why. My favourite place in the world changes as often as I do. Vietnam will always hold the sweetest corner of my heart – it’s where my story began, where every flavour feels like a memory. But somehow, Italy keeps calling me back. I’ve visited four years in a row and I’m already plotting my fifth visit, like a love affair I’m happy to surrender to. If I had to choose, it’s a gentle tug-of-war between Sicily and the Amalfi Coast. There’s something about the sunlight there, warm, generous, almost ancient. It makes you slow down and breathe differently.

The architecture is completely other worldly, the culture is immersive, but it’s the food that truly steals me. In Sicily, I crave the simplicity of pasta alla Norma, the sweetness of cannoli dusted in sugar, the smoky kiss of grilled swordfish. On the Amalfi Coast, it’s lemon everything – bright, tangy, alive – from the zucchini pasta with a confetti of lemon zest to the most floral limoncello and finally frutti di mare with a generous squeeze of lemon that tastes like the ocean itself. And then there’s the produce, the kind that ruins you but in the best way. Tomatoes still warm from the sun that are almost savoury, impossibly sweet donut peaches I’m utterly obsessed with, so fragrant they feel like their own love language. I love how the dishes shift with the land, the same way Vietnamese food transforms from north to south. Maybe that’s why I feel at home there. And honestly, I’m a water baby – give me a boat, blue horizons, sunlight on my skin, and I’m exactly where I’m meant to be.

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IMAGES: (TOP TO BOTTOM) CHIARA MAGI & KATERINA KODYAKOVA /SHUTTERSTOCK.COM.

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