SMOOTHFILLER TECHNICAL GUIDE
CONTENT Introducing Smoothfiller Technology: how it works Identify your clients Service steps Smoothfiller & color services Aftercare FAQs
A NEW APPROACH TO SMOOTHING
WHAT IF YOU COULD SAY GOODBYE TO FRIZZ… Many women struggle with frizzy, unmanageable hair that is difficult to style or control. They often spend a lot of time blow-drying their hair straight after each wash, only to worry about humidity undoing their efforts and causing frizz to return. Introducing Wella Professionals Smoothfiller: A new demi-permanent approach to smoothing.
(BEFORE)
(AFTER)
(BEFORE)
(AFTER)
SMOOTH. FILL. RESTRUCTURE.
SMOOTHFILLER DEMI-PERMANENT SMOOTHING TREATMENT Smooth, refilled and restructured hair in a pleasant and fast* salon experience.
BENEFITS FOR CLIENTS – Smoother hair, reduced frizz – Easier & faster styling – Lasts up to 3 months – Smoothing effect fades without visible regrowth – No post-service restrictions for client; hair can be washed right after
BENEFITS FOR STYLISTS & CLIENTS – Low fumes – Under 2 hours salon-exclusive service – Pleasant and fast* salon experience – Smoothfiller & same-day color service is possible – Only 20 minutes development time *Pleasant and fast: precise application, quick development time, fragrance free, low fume at heat activation. No additional rinsing after heat activation.
INGREDIENTS Smoothfiller contains only 8 carefully chosen ingredients. The active ingredient is an organic acid that is able to fill the hair protein structure by creating new stable, longer lasting bonds that restructure the hair from the inside. Smoothfiller also contains a conditioning ingredient, other ingredients in the formula ensure it’s stable and ideal to work with. – Silicone free, mineral oil free, fragrance free – Vegan – Dermatologically tested
TECHNOLOGY BENEFITS – Smart Delivery System ensures the active ingredient penetrates deep inside the hair cortex. – Does not form an artificial coating on the hair’s surface. – Only 1 product needed. – No additional rinsing required after service. – Hair slowly reverts back to natural texture over 3 months.
NO RESTRICTIONS – Client can wet their hair same day: shampooing, swimming, anything! – Client can put their hair into a hair elastic or clip immediately after service.
IDENTIFY YOUR SMOOTHFILLER CLIENT THEIR HAIR IS – Naturally frizzy – Difficult to manage – Often prone to humidity-induced frizz – They blow dry their hair frequently, seeking smoothness
THEY LOOK FOR – Smoother hair – Frizz reduction – Easier & faster styling – Easier maintenance
HOW IT WORKS Frizzy hair is difficult to style and more vulnerable to humidity and its effects, thus the hair is more unmanageable. This is because the hair is irregular from gaps within.
Smoothfiller’s Smart Delivery System ensures the active ingredient penetrates deep inside the hair cortex and cuticle working from within rather than artifical coating of the hair’s surface.
Through thermal activation, the active ingredient fills the hair protein structure by creating new stable, lasting bonds that restructure the hair from the inside.
The result is hair with incredible smoothness, effortless styling with less frizz, and natural movement every day for up to 3 months. Smooth hair you fall in love with!
SERVICE STEPS 1
PREPARATION
APPLICATION & DEVELOPMENT 2
THERMAL ACTIVATION 3
1
PREPARATION
Prepare hair for product absorption by washing and pre-drying it.
Shampoo the hair, twice if needed. Do not use conditioner. We recommend Ultimate Smooth shampoo; it cleanses hair efficiently while still allowing easy detangling. Any shampoo is suitable.
Pre-dry until hair is 80% dry. The hair should feel damp and take shape when you scrunch it.
APPLICATION & DEVELOPMENT
2
Begin by measuring 50g in a bowl and add more as needed.
Apply on hair section by section with a brush. Stay 0.5 cm away from the scalp. Saturate carefully and comb through. Develop for 20 min. Do not cover the hair, do not use heat.
20
MIN
Emulsify and rinse. Rinse until water runs clear, do not over rinse. Hair should feel slippery, but not slimy.
3
THERMAL ACTIVATION
Thermal activation is an important step as this is when the active ingredient forms the new bonds in hair, providing the Smoothfiller result.
Blow dry hair smooth until it’s 100% dry. Do not use styling products.
Straighten the hair in small sections, repeat 6 – 10 passes per section. The evenness of the heat and consistency is important. A straightening iron with adjustable heat is necessary. Longer plates help to make the service more efficient.
THERMAL ACTIVATION There are two important variants regarding the thermal activation step: heat and passes.
1. HEAT
CHOOSE HEAT BASED ON HAIR STRUCTURE.
HAIR TYPE
FINE
MEDIUM
COARSE / RESISTANT
Virgin or resistant hair
355°F 180°C
355-410°F 180 -210°C
455°F 230°C
355°F 180°C
355-410°F 180 -210°C
410-455°F 210-230°C
Not recommended
Not recommended
355-410°F 180 -210°C
Colored and sensitized Extremely sensitized hair
2. PASSES
CHOOSE NUMBER OF PASSES BASED ON DESIRED RESULT.
SOFT RESULT / FRIZZ REDUCTION MAXIMUM SMOOTHNESS
6 – 8 passes 8 - 10 passes
You may customize the number of passes if hair lengths are previously treated or sensitive (with less passes on sensitive ends).
The evenness of the heat and consistency is important for optimal results.
FINISHING THE HAIR After thermal activation step, the Smoothfiller service is ready. The hair may have static immediately following the Smoothfiller service. Use Ultimate Smooth Miracle Oil Serum, hairspray, or a light mist of water to control static. Smoothfiller may shift the color into lighter or warmer direction. No post-service restrictions for the client: hair can be washed, clipped, or tied up immediately following the service.
THE FINAL RESULT It is important to note, that right after the Smoothfiller service hair is straight, but the actual result is seen after the first wash.
Hair before
Immediately after Smoothfiller
SMOOTHER HAIR FRIZZ CONTROL & MANAGEABILITY EASIER, FASTER BLOW DRY After the first wash
After toning & blow dry with a brush
SMOOTHFILLER COLOR SERVICES – SAME DAY, NO RESTRICTIONS! COVER GREY
Applied prior to Smoothfiller service to <1cm regrowth only: •
Koleston Perfect
•
Koleston Xpress
•
Illumina Color
GLOSSING
Gloss can be applied immediately following Smoothfiller: •
Color Touch
•
Color Fresh Create
•
Color Fresh Mask
•
Shinefinity1
GREY & GLOSS
Grey coverage prior to Smoothfiller and glossing immediately after.
LIGHTEN & GLOSS
Highlight or balayage prior to Smoothfiller service. Finish the service with a glossing. •
BlondorPlex2
•
Blondor Multi Blonde
•
Blondor Freelights
•
Blondor Extra Cool
THE WORKS
Cover grey and highlight prior to Smoothfiller. Complete the look with a gloss immediately following Smoothfiller. Shinefinity and BlondorPlex Cream Toners are not recommended right after Smoothfiller. They are safe to use; however the tone will not be as rich/ not true-to-tone as expected. 2When using BlondorPlex, do not use WellaPlex No. 2. Up to 97% less breakage results are not guaranteed. 1
SMOOTHFILLER & COLOR SERVICES – Root retouch with permanent color can be done before Smoothfiller. – Smoothfiller service might shift the colored hair’s tone to lighter and / or warmer. Do not overlap Smoothfiller and flat iron over freshly colored roots. – Highlights should be done before Smoothfiller. – Hair can be glossed immediately after Smoothfiller. Color result may be less intense than usual. – With permanent color on mid-lengths and ends, wait for 5 washes.
ROOT TOUCH UP UP TO 1 CM ONLY 1CM ROOTS? In this case you may color the roots before Smoothfiller service; Smoothfiller service does not reach the hair roots. Apply Smoothfiller after permanent color has processed and the hair has been cleansed.
SMOOTHFILLER & GREY COVERAGE Cover grey roots up to 1cm at the same appointment as Smoothfiller service. Apply Koleston Perfect, Koleston Xpress, or Illumina Color to the grey root area only. Process, shampoo and continue with your Smoothfiller service. Permanent color after Smoothfiller is not recommended as it might reduce the lastingness of Smoothfiller as they both work in cortex level.
COVER GREY
Root retouch
Shampoo
SMOOTHFILLER
Blow-dry 80% Smoothfiller 20 mins Rinse
Blow Dry 100% Thermal activation
GREY ROOT RETOUCH GUIDELINES 1 PERMANENT COLOR ROOT RETOUCH
When doing the root retouch, with a permanent color, apply only to the root area (less than 1 cm). Permanent color root retouch application area
2 PROCESS AND CLEANSE Process permanent root retouch as you normally would and shampoo.
3 SMOOTHFILLER
APPLICATION AREA
After shampooing and 80% blow-dry, do not overlap Smoothfiller and flat iron over fresh permanent color root retouch. Smoothfiller application area
PERMANENT COLOR ON MID-LENGTHS AND ENDS When applying permanent color to the mid-lengths and ends, it is recommended to wait for 2 weeks (5 washes) after Smoothfiller service.
SMOOTHFILLER
Shampoo
Blow dry Smoothfiller application & development Rinse
Blow dry 100%
Thermal activation & finish
WAIT MINIMUM OF 5 WASHES
COLOR
Color as normal
Permanent color after Smoothfiller might reduce the lastingness of Smoothfiller as they both work in cortex level.
PH CONTROL BEFORE GLOSSING If hair is glossed immediately after Smoothfiller service, a pH control step is necessary. PH CONTROL: Since Smoothfiller is acidic, the hair pH needs to be rebalanced for the alkaline color to be effective. HOW: After the Smoothfiller service, gently lather shampoo and let it sit for 10 min before rinsing and following with glossing.
PH SCALE Acidic 0
1
Alkaline 2
3
4
Smoothfiller 2 – 2.5
5
6
7
8
Shampoo 5 – 5.5
9 10 11 12 13 14 Color Touch 9.5 – 10.5
SMOOTHFILLER & * SAME-DAY GLOSSING Hair can be glossed after completing a Smoothfiller service. pH balancing step is required prior to glossing. Color result after Smoothfiller may be less intense than usual.
SMOOTHFILLER
Shampoo
Blow dry 80% Smoothfiller application & development Rinse
Blow dry 100%
Thermal activation
PH CONTROL
Shampoo 10 min
COLOR REFRESH
Glossing
FINISH
Post treat
10
* Shinefinity and BlondorPlex Cream Toners are not recommended right after Smoothfiller. They are safe to use; however, the tone will not be as rich/ not true-to-tone as expected. Since Smoothfiller fills porosity in the cortex, Color Touch results after Smoothfiller may be less intense than usual.
SMOOTHFILLER & * LIGHTENER Highlights are recommended to be done before the Smoothfiller service.
HIGHLIGHTS
Highlights
SMOOTHFILLER
Emulsify & shampoo
Blow dry Smoothfiller application & development Rinse
Blow dry 100%
Thermal activation
PH CONTROL
Shampoo 10 min
COLOR REFRESH
Glossing
FINISH
Post treat
*When using BlondorPlex, do not use WellaPlex No. 2. Up to 97% less breakage results are not guaranteed.
10
SMOOTHFILLER COLOR SERVICES SUMMARY* COVER GREY
GLOSSING
GREY & GLOSS
LIGHTEN & GLOSS
THE WORKS
*Shinefinity and BlondorPlex Cream Toners are not recommended right after Smoothfiller. They are safe to use; however the tone will not be as rich/not true-to-tone as expected. Since Smoothfiller fills porosity in the cortex, Color Touch results after Smoothfiller may be less intense than usual. When using BlondorPlex, do not use WellaPlex No. 2. Up to 97% less breakage results are not guaranteed.
SMOOTHFILLER REAPPLICATION When doing the regrowth application, make sure to have a thorough hair diagnosis each time to determinate the right amount of heat and passes. You may apply the treatment on whole hair but be aware that more resistant root area might need more passes than the lengths and ends.
ROOT APPLICATION AND TENSION When reapplying the treatment and straightening the root area, maintain consistent tension. Hold the section firmly with your fingers while straightening the root area to ensure optimal control and even thermal application. Repeat 6 – 10 passes on root area depending of the desired result, for the lengths and ends you may need less passes depending of their condition. Roots:
6 - 10 Passes
Lengths and ends: 0 - 6 Passes
AFTERCARE Ultimate Smooth care lineup is the ideal care partner after Smoothfiller service. It helps to keep hair nourished, protected and smooth.
ULTIMATE SMOOTH NOURISHMENT IN 30 SECONDS, SMOOTHNESS THAT LASTS UP TO 3 DAYS 1
UP TO 85% SMOOTHER HAIR2 96 HOURS OF FRIZZ CONTROL3 SILKY SHINE
When using Miracle Oil Serum if unwashed for 3 days, vs untreated 2 when using Miracle Oil Serum vs. untreated 3 in 80% humidity
1
BEFORE
with non-conditioning shampoo
AFTER
with ULTIMATE SMOOTH routine* & blow-dry
*Shampoo, Mask, Oil Serum
BEFORE
with non-conditioning shampoo
AFTER
with ULTIMATE SMOOTH routine* & blow-dry
*Shampoo, Mask, Oil Serum
BEFORE
with non-conditioning shampoo
AFTER
with ULTIMATE SMOOTH routine* & blow-dry
*Shampoo, Mask, Oil Serum
BUSINESS TIPS PRODUCT TIPS Spot-treat challenging areas for extra smoothing. For example, apply only to the fringe area for a client who experiences the fringe area puffing up and losing control with humidity or fuzzy hair textures in particular areas.
SERVICE TIPS Only a 30-minute add-on service for any current color booking. You’re shampooing the hair anyway, so you’re only adding a 10-minute application and 20-minute processing before rinsing, blow-drying, and flat ironing to finish the look.
HOW WILL YOU GET THERE? Active listening during consultation will help you identify the customers who are suitable Smoothfiller candidates. Listen for phrases like, • My blowdries don’t last. • My hair is so hard to blow dry. • My hair gets frizzy so fast. • I can’t control this area of my hair.
GOOD TO KNOW FOR CLIENT Smoothfiller is fragrance free. Some clients may sense an odor on their hair for few washes after the service. This is a characteristic of the active ingredient and it’s reaction with the hair. It is not harmful nor permanent. Tip: Use Ultimate Smooth for a pleasant instant fragrance. Unlike keratin treatments, Smoothfiller does not require sulfate-free shampoo after the service. We recommend to use Ultimate Smooth shampoo, it is gentle and helps to keep the hair smooth. Other Wella Professionals shampoos are also suitable after Smoothfiller – a sulfate free shampoo is not required. There are no postrestrictions for client after the Smoothfiller service. The hair can be washed, re-styled or put on a ponytail immediately after Smoothfiller service.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Can I do highlights after the Smoothfiller service? Highlights are recommended to be done before the Smoothfiller service. If they were done after, the lightening might reduce the effect of Smoothfiller.
Can I use Shinefinity or BlondorPlex Cream Toners? These are not recommended after Smoothfiller service. The color intake with Shinefinity and Blondorplex Toner is not efficient after Smoothfiller service, so the tone won’t be as rich / not true to tone as expected.
How long does Smoothfiller last? Smoothfiller lasts up to 3 months – smoothing effect fades without visible regrowth.
Can I use BlondorPlex before Smoothfiller? When using BlondorPlex, do not use WellaPlex No. 2. Up to 97% less breakage results are not guaranteed. We do not recommend using WellaPlex No. 2 prior to Smoothfiller because they are both acidic.
Can I use Smoothfiller on clients with grey or white hair? Using Smoothfiller on naturally white hair might discolor the hair permanently, therefore not recommended.
Is Smoothfiller a keratin treatment? No, Smoothfiller does not contain keratin or protein. Rather, it creates a new kind of bond that lasts up to 3 months.
Can I use ghd? We recommend using ghd Chronos and ghd Chronos Max anywhere that 365° F is suitable thanks for their unique heat transfer technology. Always refer to the temperature chart for best suitability.
WANT TO KNOW MORE?
Learn more about Wella Professionals services on WellaEd.com.
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