TECHNICAL GUIDE
KOLESTON XPRESS BENEFITS
NON-PROGRESSIVE PERMANENT COLOR THAT HELPS PREVENT OVER-PROCESSING
UP TO 100% GREY COVERAGE IN JUST 10 MINUTES
KOLESTON XPRESS IS COMPATIABLE WITH PREVIOUS PERMANENT COLORS WITH SIMILAR TONALITY. TO AVOID BANDING, CONSULATION AND SHADE SELECTION ARE KEY.
KOLESTON XPRESS BENEFITS
ULTRA-PRECISE COLOR RESULTS
• Up to 100% grey coverage in just 10 minutes.
• Even, reliable color results in only 10 minutes from root-to-tip thanks to the CONTROL X TECHNOLOGY.
CARE FOR A COMFORTABLE SALON EXPERIENCE
• Integrated Metal Purifier technology helps prevent damage caused by metals in the hair.
• Features ME+ Dye Technology to reduce the risk of developing a new allergy to hair color.*
• A smart line up of 18 shades.
• Shades can be used on their own or intermixed within the Koleston Xpress palette.
• Every shade covers grey.
WHY CHOOSE BETWEEN SPEED AND PREDICTABLE RESULTS
SPEED
3X FASTER SERVICE
PREDICTABLE RESULTS
NON-PROGRESSIVE FORMULA THAT HELPS PREVENT OVER PROCESSING
SMART, EXPRESS 10-MINUTE HAIRCOLOR
CONTROL X TECHNOLOGY
WHAT IS AN ALKALIZER?
An alkalizer in permanent hair color enables the lift and facilitates the right environment for the dyes to form.
Koleston Perfect uses ammonia as our alkalizer of choice.
HOW CONTROL X TECHNOLOGY WORKS:
Koleston Xpress uses a different alkalizer: Ammonium Carbonate.
Ammonium carbonate speeds up the color process to ensure you get up to 100% grey coverage in just 10 minutes.
It simultaneously controls the dye formation to avoid color progressively going darker.
You can expect rich, healthy-looking color without compromise.
CONTROL X TECHNOLOGY
Patented Technology from the No.1 Color Brand in the World*
HOW IT WORKS
INSIDE THE HAIR
Ammonium Carbonate pulls the dyes together quickly, like a magnet.
COLOR IS LOCKED
The Overprocessing Inhibitor prevents the color from over-depositing.
COLOR IS FORMED
Due to this quick connection, a color molecule is formed.
PROCESS COMPLETE
At 10 minutes, the color is fully formed and ready to be cleansed and post-treated.
METAL PURIFIER
Koleston Xpress encapsulates and removes metals, avoiding free radicals formation to create a controlled environment outside & inside the hair for perfect color deposit and hair bonds protection.
Metal Purifier is integrated into the formula, so there’s is no need to use pre-treatment to neutralize metal when coloring with Koleston Xpress.
Why is this important?
Metals are present in the hair, coming from water and through our body. They are more concentrated in the porous hair ends. Metals are not harmful, but together with the peroxide they form free radicals. They can attack and break the bonds, cause damage and disturb the color formation.
What are hair bonds?
The bonds are chains of amino acids deep within the hair structure. Hair damage can occur from chemical processes, mechanical damage and environmental damage. This could cause some of the amino acid bonds to break.
THE TRUTH ABOUT AMMONIA
AMMONIA-FREE IS NOT DAMAGE-FREE
There are many brands which claim, “no ammonia” or “ammonia-free”. It may be easy to assume that ammonia should be avoided. The truth is that ammonia-free is not the same as damage-free.
Our research shows that for permanent color performance like 100% grey coverage, or lifting the hair, ammonia protects the hair structure better than MEA, achieving the best color results.
AMMONIA VS. MEA
We know that permanent haircolor requires an alkalizer to swell cuticles so oxidative colorants can enter to form pigments. Learn why Koleston Xpress utilizes ammonia:
LEADING COMPETITORS
Small gas molecule.
Easily evaporates from the hair – this is the “haircolor smell” you may experience.
Safely used in permanent haircolor in the Wella Professionals portfolio for years.
Much bigger liquid molecules –too big to evaporate like ammonia.
Reduced chemical smell, because it may stay on the hair after shampooing.
When used at low concentration, MEA shows no issues with color performance and hair protection. This is why we use it in demi-permanent COLOR TOUCH. When used in permanent colors, MEA may be more difficult to remove, especially when used in higher concentrations.
Naturals,
Naturals, Vibrant Reds, Special Blonde
Deep Browns
Koleston
NUMBERING SYSTEM
WELLA PROFESSIONALS NUMBERING SYSTEM
7/37 - 7/GW
Lightest Blonde
Very Light Blonde
Light Blonde
Medium Blonde
Dark Blonde
Light Brown
Medium Brown
Dark Brown
Darkest Brown
Neutral & Natural
Ash (grey)
Matte (green)
Gold (yellow)
Red (warm)
Mahogany (red/violet)
Violet (cool)
Brown (warm)
Pearl (blue)
Cendre (blue/violet)
WHAT IS
THE TONE DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN Koleston Perfect and Koleston Xpress
A zero after the stroke will give a cooler natural tone.
No number after the stroke gives a neutral expression that can be modified by adding warmth or coolness. 6/0 6/ - 6/N
DISCOVER SHADE PALETTE
SHADES CAN BE USED ON THEIR OWN TO ACHIEVE 100% GREY COVERAGE. ALL KOLESTON XPRESS SHADES CAN BE INTERMIXED TO CREATE CUSTOM WARM OR COOL GREY COVERAGE.
KOLESTON XPRESS IS COMPATIABLE WITH PREVIOUS PERMANENT COLORS WITH SIMILAR TONALITY. TO AVOID BANDING, CONSULATION AND SHADE SELECTION ARE KEY.
PURE NATURALS
RICH NATURALS
MIXING & USAGE
HOW TO USE
1. Apply quickly
MIXING & USAGE
1 :1
PRO TIPS
1. Apply with a bowl & brush or with a bottle.
2. Start at the highest concentration of grey.
3. Develop for 10 minutes.
4. Cleanse and follow with post treatment. RECOMMENDED DEVELOPERS
2. Consistency is slightly looser, making it faster to apply.
3. Can be applied to wet hair, if needed.
4. When using 30 Vol, lift will be the priority and the grey may appear more blended.
USAGE TIPS
HEAT OR NO HEAT?
In most cases using Welloxon 20 Vol without heat for 10 minutes will give you up to 100% grey coverage.
• By using a controlled heat source with Koleston Xpress, you can intensify the color result without making the shade any darker.
• Controlled heat source may be desired for coarse hair, this does not reduce development time - still process for 10 minutes under heat.
RESISTANT HAIR
If you are currently using Koleston Perfect Intense Natural shades (e.g. 66/0) or the client’s hair is notoriously resistant, we recommend continuing to use Koleston Perfect Intense Natural shades.
COLOR MASS OXIDATION
You may notice the color mass oxidize differently to Koleston Perfect.
• Control X Technology and speed in which the color molecules form cause the oxidation color.
• We do not recommend mixing and letting the bowl stand for a prolonged amount of time before applying.
WHEN TO CHOOSE KOLESTON XPRESS
Koleston Xpress is an amazing tool to have for many situations, but it won’t replace every Koleston Perfect service.
EXPRESS TO DRIVE FREQUENCY
• Express root touch-ups in between larger color appointments.
• Unplanned color appointments.
• Clients in a rush.
• Clients tempted by home color.
PERFECTION FOR ANY SERVICE
• Full grey coverage services, including use of foils.
• Hair that may take a long time to apply.
• Large regrowth over 2”
• Hard to cover resistant hair.
PERMANENT COLOR OPTIONS
Wella Professionals’ three unique permanent color lines provide different color finishes to meet all your clients’ needs. All include an integrated Metal Purifier to help protect hair from extra damage happening in the presence of metals wherever color is placed.
KOLESTON XPRESS KOLESTON PERFECT
CATEGORY Permanent Permanent
SHADES 18 100+
GREY COVERAGE 100% in just 10 minutes.100% grey coverage for your most resistant clients.
TECHNOLOGY Control X Technology to help prevent over processing for express, yet reliable results.
TONAL QUALITY Shades have been designed to blend well with previous permanent color services.
Ultra-Precision Color Technology for even, balanced color results from root to tip.
Truly perfect, natural to expressive color results, multi tones and reflective shine.
COLOR BASE Neutral Warm Brown Warm Brown
LIFT Up to 2 levels lift with 30 Vol.
Special Blondes for 4-5 levels of lift.
SERVICES Express grey coverage.Grey coverage, color balancing, creative tones.
ILLUMINA COLOR
Permanent
50+
100% grey coverage with a natural-looking result.
Microlight Technology helps protect cuticle clarity and allows light to enter hair and illuminate from within.
Natural-looking brunettes and a full blonde palette with a muted or cool finish.
Violet Undertone
Lift up to 3 levels. Grey coverage, color balancing, glossing, pastel toning.
COLORMOTION+ COLOR PROTECTION & STRENGTH*
FOR COLORED, SENSITIZED HAIR
Up to 8 weeks of Color protection*
With Metal Purifier Technology and Wellaplex Bonding Agent. For stronger hair.*
INVIGO
BRILLIANCE
INSTANT COLOR VIBRANCY & PROTECTION
Energizing formulas with lime caviar, Vitamin E & Metal Purifier.**
* When using Structure+ Mask.
** With regular use of INVIGO Brilliance Shampoo. Visit www.wella.com/ingredients to learn more about our ingredients
ULTIMATE SMOOTH FOR DRY, DULL OR FRIZZY HAIR
MIRACLE OIL SERUM
Our most intense oil with heat & UV protection
Patented technology with Squalane & Omega-9
Deeply nourishes the hair on the inside and recreates a protective barrier on the outside.
ULTIMATE SMOOTH provides nourishment in 30 seconds, smoothness that lasts up to 3 days1, up to 85% smoother hair2, and 96 hours of frizz control3
ULTIMATE REPAIR FOR ALL TYPES OF DAMAGED HAIR
MIRACLE HAIR RESCUE
Luxury leave in treatment for damaged hair
Patented technology with AHA & Omega-9
Formulated with AHA to rebuild bonds inside and Omega-9 to replenish the hair outside,
ULTIMATE REPAIR repairs hair damage in 90 seconds4, provides 99% less breakage5 and 12x smoother hair5 1If
Ultimate care products are suitable for colored hair
ULTIMATE SMOOTH
EXPRESS COVERAGE & SMOOTH SERVICE
Cover grey with KOLESTON XPRESS while simultaneously creating smoothness on lengths & ends with ULTIMATE SMOOTH.
02
GREY COVERAGE
Apply KOLESTON XPRESS where grey coverage is needed.
03
DEEP SMOOTH TREATMENT
Mist lengths and ends with water, avoiding root area. Apply the prepared treatment quickly to lengths and ends. Process under heat for 10 minutes.
0405
CLEANSE & SMOOTH
Cleanse with ULTIMATE SMOOTH shampoo and post treat before applying the ULTIMATE SMOOTH mask.
FINISH THE LOOK
Towel dry hair and apply ULTIMATE SMOOTH Miracle Oil Serum. Blow dry hair for high-shine smoothness and movement.
GET THE LOOK
MIRIAM
ROOT AREA
A. Koleston Xpress 9/06 - 9/NV + 20 Vol.
MID-LENGTHS & ENDS GLAZE
B. Shinefinity 010/6 + Bottle Activator
Apply formula A to the root area and then gently mist the mid-lengths and ends with water before applying formula
B. Process both formulas together for 10 minutes before cleansing with Ultimate Repair.
HANNAH
ROOT AREA
A. Koleston Xpress 4/-4/N + 6/02 + 20 Vol.
MID-LENGTHS & ENDS
B. Shinefinity 04/0 + 06/02 + Bowl & Brush Activator
Apply formula A to the root area and then gently mist the mid-lengths and ends with water before applying formula
B. Process both formulas together for 10 minutes before cleansing with ColorMotion+.
EXPRESS TOUCH UP
In 30 minutes or less, cover grey hair with a T-line color application. Simply apply Koleston Xpress to the front hairline and the client’s part line. This speedy service is ideal for walk-in customers, unplanned color services, or clients in a rush.
01
REGROWTH TOUCH UP Koleston Xpress 6/ - 6/N + Welloxon 20 Vol
Start on the area with the highest percentage of grey.
02
SHINEFINITY GLAZE
Shinefinity 08/38 + Bowl & Brush Activator
Apply on lengths, immediately after regrowth application. Process 10 minutes.
CARE TO NOURISH HAIR
Invigo Nutri-Enrich provides instant nourishment for dry or distressed hair.
ColorMotion+ Post Treatment requires only 30 seconds before rinsing. Comb through to evenly distribute.
LOVE THIS NEUTRAL BRUNETTE? Finish the look with OPI PUT
FLASH FRAMING
FLASH FRAMING
Cover greys and create a multi-faceted look that’s kissed with warmth.
Discover how to create dimension around the face at the shampoo bowl –to get your clients in and out in a flash.
BEFORE
01 0302
REGROWTH
TOUCH UP
Koleston Xpress
6/ - 6/N + 7/37 – 7/GW + Welloxon 20 Vol
Start on the area with the highest percentage of grey. Process for 10 minutes, then cleanse and post treat before moving to the next step.
BASIN BALAYAGE
Blondor Freelights + Freelights Developer 30 Vol 1:1.5
On clean, damp hair, gently feather the lightener around the face and part line. This express lightening service can be done at the shampoo bowl.
CARE FOR COLOR PROTECTION
*When using Structure+ Mask.
ColorMotion+ elevates color care beyond anti-fading for up to 8 weeks color protection.*
ColorMotion+ Post Treatment requires only 30 seconds before rinsing. Comb through to evenly distribute.
SHINEFINITY GLAZE
Shinefinity
09/36 + 09/81 + Bottle Activator
After processing, cleanse and post treat before your Shinefinity Glaze.
LOVE THIS CARAMEL COLOR?
Finish the look with OPI
THIS COLOR HITS ALL THE HIGH NOTES
ON THE GLOW
ON THE GLOW
In less than a lunch hour, touch up regrowth by matching, going darker, or lifting hair up to 2 levels. Keep clients looking fresh between appointments by offering this express service.
BEFORE
FACE FRAMING
BlondorPlex + Welloxon 20 Vol
010302
REGROWTH TOUCH UP
Highlight around the face with roughly 6 foils.
Koleston Xpress 9/ - 9/N + Welloxon 30 Vol
Apply to regrowth while foils are processing. Start on the area with the highest percentage of grey.
SHINEFINITY GLAZE
Shinefinity
09/61 + 09/36 + Bottle Activator
After processing, cleanse and post treat before your Shinefinity Glaze.
CARE FOR STRONG, SMOOTH HAIR
Fusion is a specialized care line that gives the intense repair and smoothness your hair craves.
ColorMotion+ Post Treatment requires only 30 seconds before rinsing. Comb through to evenly distribute.
LOVE THIS SHIMMERY BLONDE? Finish the look with OPI
I MICA BE DREAMING
CONVERSION TABLE
This conversion guide is designed to provide direction on converting competitor shades to Koleston Xpress shades. Please note that every color brand has its own character and therefore color deviations may occur when switching from one to another.
PURE NATURALS
10/ - 10/N
9/ - 9/N
8/ - 8/N
7/ - 7/N
6/ - 6/N
5/ - 5/N
4/ - 4/N
3/ - 3/N
2/ - 2/N
6/02 - 6/NM
9/06 - 9/NV
9/07 - 9/NW
6/07 - 6/NW
CONVERSION TABLE
This conversion guide is designed to provide direction on converting competitor shades to Koleston Xpress shades. Please note that every color brand has its own character and therefore color deviations may occur when switching from one to another.
RICH NATURALS
7/1 - 7/A
5/1 - 5/A
8/31 - 8/GA
7/37 - 7/GW
5/37 - 5/GW
KOLESTON XPRESS FREQUENTLY
ASKED
QUESTIONS
01.
ASSESS YOUR CLIENTS HAIR
Every shade covers grey. Koleston Xpress is ideal for fine-medium hair texture or add heat for coarse/resistant hair.
02.
APPLY KOLESTON XPRESS
The consistency is perfect for speedy bottle application.
Who is the target client for Koleston Xpress?
03.
PROCESS 10 MINUTES BEFORE CLEANSING
You can extend timing by 5 minutes for extra saturation.
Koleston Xpress is suitable for fast root touch ups where a maximum of 2 levels of lift are desired. If the hair is notoriously hard to cover, use Koleston Perfect Intense Naturals (e.g. 66/0).
Is my result going to be an exact match to Koleston Perfect?
It will be complementary to Koleston Perfect. Beautiful when used on their own and will not cause banding for future appointments.
Will the result fade over time?
You can expect a gentle on-tone fade between appointments. This means you can touch up your clients’ hair alternating between Koleston Xpress and Koleston Perfect services with much less risk of banding that’s typically associated with switching color lines.
What happens if I leave it on longer than 10 minutes?
At 20 minutes and beyond, you may see a richness of the coverage and color result but without the color sinking and going multiple depths darker, thanks to Control X Technology.
Can I use lightener after Koleston Xpress?
Yes, Koleston Xpress is easy to lift through for additional services like highlighting and balayage.
ALLERGY ALERT TEST
Although the risk of developing a new allergy is reduced, the danger of an allergic reaction – even a severe one – still exists. That’s why you should always perform an allergy alert test 48 hours before any color service.
Mix 5g of the color you decided on during consultation with 5g developer.
Ask your client to leave the test area undisturbed for 48 hours. If there are any signs of redness, burning or itching the color product must not be applied. The client must seek medical advice before coloring their hair again. If your client has ever experienced an allergic reaction to hair colorants you should not proceed with a color service. Additional options for allergy assessment on the following page. 1 2 4 3
Apply the color in a 1-inch square directly on the inner forearm.
Leave the color uncovered for 45 minutes. Then rinse the area with lukewarm water and pat dry with a clean towel.
Ask the client to either come back to the salon after 48 hours or call you to inform you of the result
ALLERGY ALERT TEST QUESTIONNAIRE
If the client answers ‘NO’ to all the questions, you can proceed with the color service on this occasion without doing an Allergy Alert Test.
1. Has your client ever had an allergic reaction to any hair color?
2. Has your client ever had an allergic reaction to any type of skin tattoo, including henna or to permanent makeup?
3. Does your client have a sensitive, itchy, or damaged scalp (e.g. suffer from eczema or psoriasis of the scalp)?
STOP IF YOUR CLIENT ANSWERED YES TO ANY QUESTION ABOVE
Explain to your client that you cannot color the hair unless they first get advice from their doctor.
4. Is your client currently taking any medication to treat allergies?
5. Is this a new color client for your salon or are you using a different brand/shade than normal?
6. Has it been more than 6 months since your client last had a color service in your salon?
7. Is it more than 12 months since your client’s last allergy alert test?
8. Has your client had any type of skin tattoo, including henna or permanent makeup, since their last color service?
9. Has your client had an allergic reaction to any products since their last color service?
CARRY OUT AN ALLERGY ALERT TEST IF THE CLIENT ANSWERED “YES” TO ANY QUESTION
