TECHNICAL GUIDE
Discover WELLA COLORCHARM, a range of hair coloring and lightening products, created to achieve exceptional, long-lasting results for all hair types. With over 65 years of professional hair expertise to their name, WELLA COLORCHARM is the most trusted color brand for all users. Designed by top hair color creators to provide professional quality color, allowing everyone to discover or create their perfect shade.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS HAIR THEORY
04
ANALYSIS
11
COLOR THEORY
14
DEVELOPER
25
PERMANENT COLOR
32
GLOSS
53
TONER
60
DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR
73
LIGHTENER
82
GLOSSARY
91 3
1 HAIR THEORY Hair Structure, Pigmentation, and Understanding Levels and Tones
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HAIR STRUCTURE Hair is composed of different layers which are responsible for specific hair qualities. It is essential to be able to analyze the hair in order to determine proper color and treatment.
MEDULLA
» Innermost layer
CORTEX
» Second layer » Contains natural color (melanin) » Quality determines strength and elasticity » Where most coloring and lightening takes place
CUTICLE
» Outermost Layer » Cuticle is translucent, but protects the cortex » Shows signs of damage to the shaft
A CLOSER LOOK MEDULLA Found in the center of the hair fiber. Has no proven function and isn’t always present (particularly in fine hair). CORTEX The main component of the hair. Also contains natural color pigments. This is where the most chemical changes take place. CUTICLE A transparent external layer of light-sensitive, water-resistant cells that surround and protect the hair. Designed to open and close, allowing certain products to penetrate the hair.
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HAIR STRUCTURE HAIR GROWTH CYCLE ANAGEN Most of the hairs are in anagen stage, which is the growing stage. This may last from 1 to 7 years, the average is 3 years. (~1000 days) CATAGEN Hair stops growing, but cellular activity continues at the papilla. This lasts up to 2 weeks. (10-15 days) TELOGEN The final stage is the resting stage, no activity in the papilla. The follicle separates itself from the papilla area. Cells begin to activate in preparation for the new anagen stage of regrowth. Lasts 3 to 4 months (~100 days).
1. ANAGEN (Growth phase) Nourishment of hair follicle via blood supply enables hair growth
Hair
Hair Follicle Root
6
Blood Supply
3. TELOGEN
2. CATAGEN
(Resting phase) Without nourishment the hair dies and falls out
(Transition phase) Hair follicle detaches from nourishing blood supply
Club Hair
HAIR STRUCTURE TEXTURE Texture is the feel, appearance, or consistency of hair. Hair texture types range from very coarse to very fine. Each hair texture type has its own traits that set it apart from other hair textures and influence the care or treatment it may need.
COARSE
MEDIUM
FINE
POROSITY Porosity is the ability to absorb moisture. Hair with high porosity will reject warm tones and accept cool tones. Uneven porosity means uneven color results.
LOW POROSITY
NORMAL POROSITY
HIGH POROSITY
HAIR POROSITY TEST Drop a strand in a cup of water.
Low: Floats
Medium: Sinks Slowly
High: Sinks Fast
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HAIR STRUCTURE DIFFERENT FORMS OF HAIR
STRAIGHT Smooth, reflects light better and appears shinier.
WAVY Refracts or bounces back light.
CURLY May require more intense color deposit to show noticeable results.
LENGTH
DENSITY
»H air grows approximately ½" per month, 6" per year
» Thickness of hair
»L onger hair is older and varies in porosity
»C onsider length/porosity when formulating and applying color
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» Number of strands per square inch » Varies throughout the head
HAIR PIGMENTATION HOW IS HAIR COLOR DETERMINED? There are two types of pigment, or melanin that determine hair color. » An abundance of eumelanin colors the hair black or brown. » An abundance of pheomelanin colors the hair orange or red.
EUMELANIN
PHEOMELANIN
Black/brown (cool) and larger pigment. The amount of eumelanin determines the depth of the hair (how light or dark it is).
Red/yellow (warm) and smaller pigment. The amount of pheomelanin in the hair determines the tone of the hair.
PHEOMELANIN- YELLOW TO RED IN COLOR
EUMELANIN- DARK BROWN TO BLACK IN COLOR
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UNDERSTANDING LEVELS AND TONES IN HAIR COLOR NATURAL LEVEL
PRO TIP: Use the level finder to determine how light/dark the natural shade is.
» Natural level describes how light or dark natural hair color is regardless of its tonal character. There are 10 Natural Hair Color Levels:
» The swatches below are approximate natural hair color shades. Natural hair color contributes to the final color result when artificial hair color is added. See “Contributing Pigment” segments to help guide color results.
1 Black
2 Dark Brown
3 Medium Brown
4 Light Brown
5 Lightest Brown
6 Dark Blonde
7 Medium Blonde
CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT » Contributing pigment is the natural color that’s exposed after hair is lightened. All 10 levels have a corresponding pigment. » Blonde: Between levels 6-10 » Brunette: Between levels 1-5
8 Light Blonde
9 Very Light Blonde
10 Lightest Blonde
PRO TIP: Contributing Pigment + Lightening/Artificial Color = Final Result
NATURAL LEVELS
NATURAL HAIR COLOR
EXPOSED CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT AFTER LIGHTENING
10
1 Black
Dark RedBrown
2 Dark Brown
3 Medium Brown
4 Light Brown
5 Lightest Brown
6 Dark Blonde
7 Medium Blonde
8 Light Blonde
9 Very Light Blonde
10 Lightest Blonde
RedBrown
Red
RedOrange
Orange
OrangeGold
Gold
YellowGold
Yellow
Pale Yellow
2 HAIR ANALYSIS
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COLORING HAIR: ANALYSIS OF HAIR A proper analysis of both hair and scalp is necessary before any chemical service. If scalp shows signs of irritation, do not proceed until healed.
1. ELASTICITY TEST
To determine if hair is in a sufficiently healthy condition prior to a coloring service: •S tretch a strand of hair. If hair breaks easily, do not proceed until hair has been reconditioned and retested.
2. POROSITY TEST
To determine how quickly hair will absorb color: • A dry/matted feel or a lack of shine are signs that hair is porous/dry. • The greater the degree of porosity, the more quickly hair will absorb color.
3. ALLERGY ALERT TEST
Although the risk of developing a new allergy is reduced, the danger of an allergic reaction — even a severe one — still exists. That’s why you should always perform an allergy alert test 48 hours before any color service.
48
HOURS
STEP 1 Mix a small amount of the color you decided on during consultation with a small amount of developer
STEP 2 Apply the color on 1cm2 directly below the crook of the elbow.
STEP 3 Leave the color uncovered for 45 mins. Then rinse the area with lukewarm water and pat dry with a clean towel.
STEP 4 Ask the client to either come back to the salon after 48 hours or call you to inform you of their result.
Ask your client to leave the test area undisturbed for 48 hours. If there are any signs of redness, burning or itching the color product must not be applied. The client must seek medical advice before coloring their hair again. If your client has ever experienced an allergic reaction to hair colorants you should not color.
4. FORMULATION
Lower volumes of developer should be used whenever possible if coloring chemically relaxed hair with permanent hair color.
5. STRAND TEST
To determine appropriate timing and predict accurate results: •M ix small quantities of the formula to be used. Apply to a small (approximately ¼") strand of hair from scalp to ends. Follow timing instructions for each product. • Evaluate condition of the strand and color results. 12
NOTES
13
3 COLOR THEORY Color Wheel, Contributing Pigments, Permanency, Level & Tone, Portfolio, Troubleshooting 14
COLOR THEORY: COLOR WHEEL The Color Wheel is a tool that explains the fundamental rules of color. These are equally applicable whether you are a painter, a photographer, a designer or a professional colorist. An awareness of the fundamental rules of color will allow you to confidently select the right shade every time.
PRIMARY
Y G
The three colors from which all colors are created:
O BLUE
RED
SECONDARY
Created by mixing equal portions of two primary colors:
R
B
YELLOW
V Yellow + Red = ORANGE
Red + Blue = VIOLET
Blue + Yellow = GREEN
TERTIARY
Created by mixing equal portions of one primary and one secondary color:
Yellow + Orange = YELLOW-ORANGE
Red + Orange = RED-ORANGE
Red + Violet = RED-VIOLET
Blue + Violet = BLUE-VIOLET
Blue + Green = BLUE-GREEN
Yellow + Green = YELLOW-GREEN
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COLOR THEORY: CONTRIBUTING PIGMENTS EXPOSED CONTRIBUTING PIGMENTS Use the chart below to help guide your final result when looking to neutralize unwanted tones. Start with Level + Exposed Contributing Pigment to help you choose the correct Counteracting Tone
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EXPOSED CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT/UNDERLYING TONE
COUNTERACTING TONE TO USE
LEVEL
DESCRIPTION
10
LIGHTEST BLONDE
PALE YELLOW
SOFT VIOLET
9
VERY LIGHT BLONDE
YELLOW
VIOLET
8
LIGHT BLONDE
YELLOW-GOLD
VIOLET-BLUE
7
MEDIUM BLONDE
GOLD
BLUE-VIOLET
6
DARK BLONDE
ORANGE-GOLD
BLUE-VIOLET
5
LIGHTEST BROWN
ORANGE
BLUE
4
LIGHT BROWN
RED-ORANGE
GREEN-BLUE
3
MEDIUM BROWN
RED
GREEN
2
DARK BROWN
RED-BROWN
GREEN
1
BLACK
DARK RED-BROWN
GREEN
PERMANENT, SEMI AND DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR: WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE? Permanent Color Semi-Permanent Color
Demi-Permanent Color
PERMANENT Most permanent hair color contains ammonia and offers longest lasting results. It requires mixing with a developer to apply to the hair. When coloring with permanent shades, the process opens the cuticle into the cortex to let dye into the hair, adding to the natural pigment that is already there. Technically, the color never truly leaves, but it does fade over time.
SEMI-PERMANENT A semi-permanent color contains no ammonia and deposits only. It does not require mixing with a developer and lasts anywhere from 4–20 shampoos. This type of color is used to enhance natural color or add as a fashion color after lightening. It is safe for immediate use after a relaxer or perm service. Semi-permanent color usually just sits on the surface of the hair.
DEMI-PERMANENT Demi-permanent color also contains no ammonia, but it does require mixing with a developer for application. It does not penetrate as deeply into the hair as permanent color. Instead, color molecules get under the outer cuticle of the hair shaft, wrapping around the hair’s cuticle to create a coating of color that’s gradually washed away.
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COLOR THEORY: LEVEL AND TONE LEVEL AND TONE SHADE NUMBERING SYSTEM WELLA COLORCHARM uses a level and tone system for identifying each shade. This system enables logical and consistent shade selection so that you can formulate color with total confidence for perfect results every time.
WHAT IS A LEVEL? A level describes how light or dark a color is regardless of its tonal character. This is represented by a numeric system based on international standards. The range is from 1 to 12, with 1 being the darkest and 12 being the lightest.
WHAT IS A TONE? A tone is the overall character of the color result that you will see. This is represented by the one or two letters that follow the level number.
NATURAL LEVELS
NATURAL HAIR COLOR
10 Lightest Blonde
9 Very Light Blonde
8 Light Blonde
7 Medium Blonde
LEVEL
TONE
6 Dark Blonde
5 Lightest Brown
4 Light Brown
3 Medium Brown
2 Dark Brown
1 Black
The first number indicates the level of the color based on how light or dark the expected result will be. The letter following the number represents the tonal qualities of the shade. In this case the letter N indicates a Natural tone.
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COLOR THEORY: LEVEL AND TONE 8 TONAL FAMILIES WELLA COLORCHARM includes real color swatches on the packaging to help ease navigation and selection at shelf. There are 9 tonal families, each represented by letters.
N = NATURAL
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A = ASH
G = GOLD
C = COOL
V = VIOLET
W = WARM
BBL = BLUE BLACK
R = RED
PORTFOLIO OVERVIEW WELLA COLORCHARM Color and Lightener Portfolio PERMANENT COLOR
TONER
IDEAL FOR
IDEAL FOR
» Gray coverage » Shade matching » Color retouching » Depositing color » Changing tone (Natural hair)
»N eutralizing or correcting unwanted tones »P re-lightened or naturally blonde hair at levels 8 and above » Depositing color »R efreshing or enhancing naturally blonde hair
VIVID DARKS
VIVID DARKS 2-IN-1 LIGHTENER + COLOR
Raspberry Pop
Rich Cherry
IDEAL FOR
IDEAL FOR
»B old colors on dark hair » Lifting hair 3-4 levels without bleach » Color retouching »D epositing color » Changing tone (natural hair)
»M ulti-use, time saving formula that lifts and deposits vibrant color in one step »U p to 6 levels of lift » For off-scalp application only » Suitable for and works on all hair types, even on previously colored hair 21
DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR
LIGHTENER
IDEAL FOR
IDEAL FOR
» Gray blending » Color refresh/enhancement » Depositing color » Lowlight » Glossing or toning » First-time color users » Coloring relaxed hair
»R emoving color on natural or previously colored hair » Color correction »H ighlighting, balayage and full head lightening »O n- or off-scalp applications
SHINELUXE TOP COAT HAIR GLOSS
IDEAL FOR » Adds intense, luminous shine » Restores color vibrancy » Leaves hair smooth and healthy looking » Free of ammonia » Vegan**
*vs pre-colored hair when used with WELLA COLORCHARM Post Color & Lightening Treatment **Free of animal-derived ingredients
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COLORING HAIR: TROUBLESHOOTING CHALLENGE
POSSIBLE REASONS
Color is uneven or insufficient coverage
» Not enough color formula was applied or color was applied unevenly. Remember to fully saturate when applying color. » Rinsing color out before it has fully processed will create uneven results. More processing time is needed. Be sure to check timing recommendations. » The color formula was combed from the roots to ends too soon. Porous ends will absorb color more intensely. Consider waiting 15-20 minutes before processing time ends or apply demi- or semi-permanent color to help refresh ends. » Incorrect measuring. Always use a scale or measuring cups. Remember to measure according to manufacturer instruction. » Wrong choice of developer. Developer will determine how much hair will lift.
Root area is too brassy/ orange after lightening
» Not enough color formula was applied or applied unevenly. » The processing time was too short.
Root area is too cool/green after lightening
» The selected shade had a stronger amount of cool (ash/green) than necessary. » The color was applied to the hairline too soon.
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NOTES
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4 DEVELOPERS Understanding Developers, COLORCHARM Developer Portfolio, and Choosing Developers
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DEVELOPERS WHAT ARE DEVELOPERS? All oxidative colorants (demi-permanent, permanent colors and lightener products) are mixed with peroxide. » Peroxides consist of hydrogen peroxide H202, liquid made of water and oxygen. » They are also called an “oxidant” or “developer.”
DEVELOPERS (PEROXIDE) » The use of developers is required to activate hair color and lighteners. » Found in various strengths which are indicated by the volume or percentage. » Developer strength is based on the desired amount of lift or lightening. » Do not use 40 volume for on-scalp application or on hair that has been relaxed or permed.
HOW THEY WORK When peroxide is mixed with the alkalinizing agent (ammonia in the permanent color) the oxidation process begins to work. The ammonia swells the cuticle, and the peroxide provides the oxygen to oxidize the hair’s color pigment inside the cortex.
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DEVELOPERS: PORTFOLIO
Standard Mixing Ratio:1:2
(1 part color + 2 parts developer) VIVID DARKS RATIO: 1:1 (1 part color + 1 part developer)
10 Volume
20 Volume
» Gray Blending
» Gray Coverage
» Deposit Only
» On-the-scalp lightening
»U se with demi-permanent,
permanent, toners or lightener
» Up to 2 levels of lift » On-the-scalp lightening
»U se with permanent, liquid toners or lightener
30 Volume
40 Volume
»O ff-the-scalp lightening
»U p to 5 levels of lift with High-Lift Color
» Up to 3 levels of lift
»U se with permanent, Vivid Darks
Permanent Cream Color or lightener
» Up tp 4 levels of lift
»O ff-the-scalp lightening
»U se with permanent or lightener
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CHOOSE YOUR DEVELOPER If your desired final shade is lighter than your current natural color, you will need to use a formula that lifts while coloring. Whether you are a brunette, or red, you only need to identify the starting level of brightness.
1
2
3
STARTING LEVEL
DESIRED LEVEL
DEVELOPERS
Locate starting level using the column on the left of the chart.
Find the desired final shade’s level using the column on the top of the chart.
Finally, find where the starting level and final level intersect on the chart. This will indicate the level of developer needed, or if you need to pre-lighten before coloring.
1
STARTING LEVEL
2
30
DESIRED LEVEL
LEVEL 1
LEVEL 10 Lightest Blonde
10 VOLUME
LEVEL 9 Very Light Blonde
10 VOLUME
LEVEL 8
Light Blonde
10 VOLUME
LEVEL 7 Medium Blonde
10 VOLUME
LEVEL 6 Dark Blonde
10 VOLUME
LEVEL 5 Lightest Brown
10 VOLUME
LEVEL 4 Light Brown
10 VOLUME
LEVEL 3 Medium Brown
10 VOLUME
LEVEL 2 Dark Brown
10 VOLUME
LEVEL 1 Black
10 VOLUME
LEVEL 2
LEVEL 3
LEVEL 4
LEVEL 5
LEVEL 6
LEVEL 7
LEVEL 8
LEVEL 9
LEVEL 10
20 VOLUME
20 VOLUME
20 VOLUME
30 VOLUME
20 VOLUME
30 VOLUME
40 VOLUME
20 VOLUME
30 VOLUME
40 VOLUME
PRELIGHTEN FIRST
20 VOLUME
30 VOLUME
40 VOLUME
20 VOLUME
30 VOLUME
40 VOLUME
20 VOLUME
30 VOLUME
40 VOLUME
20 VOLUME
30 VOLUME
40 VOLUME
30 VOLUME
40 VOLUME
Developers
PRE-LIGHTEN FIRST
PRE-LIGHTEN FIRST
PRE-LIGHTEN FIRST
PRE-LIGHTEN FIRST
PRE-LIGHTEN FIRST
WELLA COLORCHARM Developers are designed to be mixed with WELLA COLORCHARM hair color, toners and lighteners to deliver remarkable results. With a range of strengths, our developers make it easier to achieve the exact color you desire.
STANDARD MIXING RATIO: 1:2
VIVID DARKS 2-IN-1: 1:1.5
(1 part color + 2 parts developer)
(1 part lightener + 1.5 parts developer)
10 VOLUME
20 VOLUME
30 VOLUME
40 VOLUME
LEVELS OF LIFT
Deposit Only
Up to 2 levels of lift
Up to 3 levels of lift
Up to 4 levels of lift & Up to 5 levels of lift with High-Lift Color
IDEAL FOR
Gray Blending
Gray Coverage
Extra Lift
Maximum Lift
SUITABLE TO BE USED DIRECTLY ON SCALP WHEN MIXED WITH LIGHTENER
YES
YES
NO
NO
• Permanent Color • Permanent Toners • Demi-Permanent Color • Lightener
• Permanent Color • Permanent Liquid Toners • Lightener • Vivid Darks 2-in-1 Lightener + Color
• Permanent Color • Vivid Darks Cream Color • Lightener
• Permanent Color • Lightener
7.8 fl oz
3.7 fl oz
3.7 fl oz
3.7 fl oz
15.4 fl oz
32 fl oz
32 fl oz
32 fl oz
USE WITH
AVAILABLE SIZES
Developers
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5 PERMANENT COLOR Color Technology, Portfolio, Shades, Mixing & Application, New Permanent Cream color guide, Vivid Darks Permanent Cream Color, Vivid Darks Permanent 2-in-1 Lightener + Color 32
PERMANENT COLOR: TECHNOLOGY Permanent color penetrates the cuticle allowing tone to last longer even when fading is a factor.
PERMANENT COLOR
MEDULLA
CORTEX
CUTICLE
» When applied to hair, it adds to the natural hair pigment. » Opens the cuticle into the cortex to let dye into the hair.
» Technically, it never truly leaves but the color does fade over time. » Molecules get under the outer cuticle of the hair shaft.
»T hey wrap around the hair’s cuticle creating a coating of color that’s gradually washed away.
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PERMANENT COLOR: PORTFOLIO PERMANENT LIQUID COLOR
WELLA COLORCHARM Permanent Liquid hair color's luxurious palette of shades deliver exceptional color that: » Is vibrant, long-lasting and fade-resistant »P rovides great conditioning
» Provides up to 100% gray coverage » Is vegan** and free of parabens
PERMANENT CREAM COLOR
WELLA COLORCHARM Permanent Cream hair color offers 56 NEW vibrant, long-lasting shades: » With 5 nourishing lipids that provide moisturization »B uilt-in BondGuard technology to help protect bonds » Leaves hair conditioned
» With up to 90% less breakage*
VIVID DARKS PERMANENT CREAM COLOR WELLA COLORCHARM VIVID DARKS achieves vibrant color on naturally dark hair: » Lifts up to 3-4 levels, no bleach needed
» Helps combat damage with a built-in metal purifier » I s vegan** and free of phthalates and parabens » Use with NEW 30 vol developer
VIVID DARKS 2-IN-1 LIGHTENER + COLOR WELLA COLORCHARM VIVID DARKS 2-in-1 Lightener + Color achieves vibrant color on dark hair. » Multi-use, time saving formula that lifts and deposits vibrant color in one step » Up to 6 levels of lift
»F or off-scalp application only
»S uitable for and works on all hair types, even on previously colored hair
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*vs pre-colored hair when used with WELLA COLORCHARM Post Color & Lightening Treatment **Free of animal-derived ingredients
PERMANENT COLOR: SHADE PALETTE 12
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
2
WARM BROWN
PEARL ASH
ASH BLUE VIOLET
NATURAL GOLD
GOLD VIOLET
INTENSE ASH
12N
12A
12AA
12C
High Lift Blonde
Frosty Ash
High Lift Nordic Blonde
Ultra Light Blonde
10N
10A
10PA
10NG
10GV
Satin Blonde
Palest Ash Blonde
Lightest Pearlescent Blonde
Honey Beige Blonde
Honey Blonde
GOLD
WARM
WARM VIOLET
WARM RED
9N
9NN
9A
9PA
9NG
9G
Very Light Blonde
Intense Very Light Blonde
Pale Ash Blonde
Light Pearlescent Blonde
Sand Blonde
Soft Pure Gold Blonde
8N
8NN
8NW
8A
8NG
8G
Light Blonde
Intense Light Blonde
Light Natural Warm Blonde
Light Ash Blonde
Light Beige Blonde
Light Golden Blonde
7N
7NN
7NW
7A
7AA
7G
7GV
7W
7WV
7WR
Medium Blonde
Intense Medium Blonde
Medium Natural Warm Blonde
Medium Smokey Ash Blonde
Medium Blonde Intense Ash
Sunlight Blonde Brown
Medium Soft Gold Blonde
Caramel
Nutmeg
Tan Blonde
6N
6NN
6NW
6A
6AA
6G
6W
Dark Blonde
Intense Dark Blonde
Dark Natural Warm Blonde
Dark Ash Blonde
Dark Blonde Intense Ash
Hazel Blonde
Praline
5N
5NN
5NW
5A
5AA
5G
5WV
5WR
Light Brown
Intense Light Brown
Light Natural Warm Brown
Light Ash Brown
Light Brown Intense Ash
Light Golden Brown
Cinnamon
Allspice
4N
4NN
4NW
4A
4G
Medium Ash Brown
Dark Golden Brown
Medium Brown
3
INTENSE NATURAL
ASH
NATURAL
Intense Medium Natural Medium Brown Warm Brown
3N
3NN
3NW
3A
Dark Brown
Intense Dark Brown
Dark Natural Warm Brown
Dark Ash Brown
2N
Very Dark Brown
1
1N
Black
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CHOCOLATE
NATURAL BROWN
COOL BROWN
RED GOLD
RED
INTENSE RED
RED VIOLET
VIOLET
INTENSE VIOLET
VIOLET ASH
BLUE BLACK
LEGEND: LIQUID
12
12V CREAM High Lift Cool Blonde
TONING ADDITIVES
10
BP
9
Blonding Plus Additive
050
8
8RG Cooling Violet Additive
Titan Red Blonde
7
6
3
7R
7VA
Coffee Ice Cream
Red
Medium Violet Ash Blonde
6CH
6NB
6BC
6RG
6R
6RV
Toasted Hazelnut
Souffle
Mudslide
Light Copper
Red Terra Cotta
Cyclamen
5NB
5BC
5RG
5RR
5RV
Coffee Bean
Fudge Pop
Light Auburn
Crimson
Burgundy
5
4
7B
4CH
4RG
4R
4VV
Dark Chocolate Brown
Dark Auburn
Cinnamon Brown
Plum
3RV Black Cherry
2
1
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1V
1BBL
Violet Black
Blue Black
PERMANENT COLOR: MIXING INSTRUCTIONS WELLA COLORCHARM PERMANENT HAIR COLOR HAS FOUR DEDICATED DEVELOPERS CREAM DEVELOPER, ideal for bowl and brush or bottle application. Available in 10, 20, 30 and 40-volumes.
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS
1) Determine the desired amount of product needed.
2) Choose the application method — applicator bottle or bowl and brush. Liquid hair color is ideal for bottle application, while gel hair color is perfect for use with bowl and brush.
3) 1 :2 mixing ratio: Mix together well — 1 part WELLA COLORCHARM Permanent Hair Color to 2 parts WELLA COLORCHARM Developer
HOW TO USE TONING ADDITIVES 050 COOLING VIOLET • Reduces unwanted warm tones • Add to existing permanent formulas
• Mixing ratio 2-4 capfuls, per application
BP BLONDING PLUS • Provides 1 additional level of lift
• Use with permanent formulas level 9 and lighter
• Mixing Ratio 1+1:2
1 part color + 1 part BP + 4 parts developer
STRAND TEST Performing a strand test is always recommended, especially if the hair is porous or has previously been subjected to lighteners, permanent waves, chemical hair relaxers or hair color. 1) Mix a small amount of chosen color(s) formula according to directions. 2) Apply to selected strands of hair in a discreet area. 3) Process for 10 minutes, check color results.
4) Continue to check every 5 minutes until desired result is achieved.
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PERMANENT COLOR: APPLICATION TECHNIQUES FIRST-TIME COLOR APPLICATION STEP 1
Start approximately ½" away from the scalp. Apply color formula to lengths and ends, and process, do not rinse and proceed to Step 2. PROCESSING TIMES Permanent Color: 20 min.
High Lift Blondes: 30 min.
STEP 2
Once Step 1 has been applied, apply color to the roots, working away from the hairline, and continue processing. PROCESSING TIMES
STEP 3
Permanent Shades: 30-45 minutes total processing time.
High Lift Blondes: 50-60 minutes total processing time.
After processing, rinse thoroughly, shampoo, condition and style as desired.
COLOR RETOUCH & REFRESH STEP 1
Apply color to regrowth only and process. Do not rinse, proceed with the next step. PROCESSING TIMES Permanent Color: 30-40 min.
TIP: Balance out the porosity of the hair by misting the lengths and ends with water before pulling color through.
STEP 2
Color refresh on lengths and ends using Permanent or Demi-Permanent Color. APPLICATION
Apply the desired formula mixed with 10 vol to the lengths and ends of the hair.
STEP 3
After processing, rinse thoroughly, shampoo, condition and style as desired. 38
PERMANENT COLOR: APPLICATION TECHNIQUES GRAY HAIR COVERAGE For the best gray coverage on resistant grays, always use the N Series in your formula and leave on for 45 minutes.
Formula When covering 30-50% gray hair:
Double Parts
1 Part
2 Parts
N Series
Desired Shade
Developer
Eg.: (1oz 6N + 2oz 6G + 6oz of Developer)
When covering 50-100% gray hair:
1 Part
1 Part
N Series
Desired Shade
Double Parts Developer
Eg.: (1oz 6N + 1oz 6G + 4oz of Developer)
1 Part
OR
Double Parts
N Series
Developer
Eg.: (1oz 6N + 2oz of Developer)
TIP: Saturation is key to ensure proper gray coverage. Take fine sections and check the color result BEFORE rinsing. If needed, extend the processing time.
HIGH LIFT BLONDING » Delivers beautiful clear blonde results with a variety of tones » Best suited on natural level 6 or above » 1:2 Mixing Ratio (1 part color + 2 parts 40 volume developer) » Available in Natural, Ash and Violet shades NATURAL
ASH
INTENSE ASH
ASH BLUE VIOLET
VIOLET
12N
12A
12AA
12C
12V
High Lift Blonde
Frosty Ash
High Life Nordic Blonde
Ultra Light Blonde
High Lift Cool Blonde
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PERMANENT GEL IS NOW NEW PERMANENT CREAM HAIR COLOR
Introducing NEW WELLA COLORCHARM Permanent Cream Hair Color - the perfect harmony of color and care. We upgraded our trusted gel formula to a new cream with built-in BondGuard that helps protect bonds, combat damage* and reduce breakage**.
With 5 nourishing lipids that provide moisturization for soft and smooth hair. Plus this formula will leave hair conditioned, full of shine and provides up to 100% gray coverage. *Damage caused by metals in the hair **vs. pre-colored hair when used together with WCC Post Color & Lightening Treatment
40
41
42
43
44
45
NOTES
46
Out of the dark and into bold, vivid color. A chieve vibrant color on naturally dark hair with WELLA COLORCHARM VIVID DARKS. » Lifts up to 3-4 levels, no bleach needed. » Helps combat damage with a built-in metal purifier. » Add healthy-looking color to your new look as 5 nourishing lipids leave hair soft and smooth to the touch with seamlessly even tone from root to tip. » Vegan* and free of phthalates and parabens. » Use with 30vol developer
*Free of animal-derived ingredients
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VIVID DARKS PERMANENT CREAM COLOR Available in 9 Vivid Shades
Muy Magenta
Ruby Red
Chili Red
Crushed Copper
Fiery Copper
Glowing Garnet
Viva Violet
Purple Orchid
How To Use
Step 1
Step 2
Apply to desired areas and Mix 1 part WELLA process for 30 minutes. COLORCHARM VIVID DARKS shade of your choice w ith 1 parts WELLA COLORCHARM 30 volume developer (1:1).
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Step 3
Rinse thoroughly, shampoo, condition and style!
Blue Moon
Out of the dark and into bold, vivid color. Achieve vibrant color on dark hair with WELLA COLORCHARM VIVID DARKS 2-IN-1 LIGHTENER + COLOR. » Multi-use, time-saving formula that lifts and deposits vibrant color in one step. » Up to 6 levels of lift. » For off-scalp application only. » Works on all hair types and even on previously colored hair. » Suitable for all hair types and textures and can be used on wigs.
49
49
NEW VIVID DARKS 2-IN-1 LIGHTENER + COLOR Available in 2 Vivid Shades
Raspberry Pop
Rich Cherry
How To Use
50 min
Step 1
Mix 1 part WELLA COLORCHARM VIVID DARKS 2-IN-1 Lightener + Color with 1.5 parts of WELLA COLORCHARM Developer 20vol.
50
Step 2
Apply to desired areas and process for up to 50 minutes.
Step 3
Rinse thoroughly, shampoo, condition and style!
VIVID DARKS GUIDE 2 Dark Brown
1 Black
3 Medium Brown
4 Light Brown
5 Lightest Brown
VIVID DARKS Permanent Cream Color and VIVID DARKS 2-IN-1 LIGHTENER + COLOR is recommended for levels 5 and below.
6 Dark Blonde
7 Medium Blonde
8 Light Blonde
9 Very Light Blonde
10 Lightest Blonde
Demi Permanent Color recommended for levels 6 and above. VIVID DARKS 2-IN-1 Lightener + Color is NOT recommended.
Below is a guide to help you choose the right product START HERE
I've never used Vivid Darks before and I've never colored my hair
I've never used Vivid Darks before and I have colored hair
I've used Vivid Darks and want the color to look fresh
I have lighter hair but I really want to use Vivid Darks
MY HAIR IS
Naturally dark hair (not previously colored)
Previously colored
Faded and less vibrant
Level 6 (Dark Blonde) or lighter
I WANT TO
Lighten my hair 3-4 levels with a vivid color result
Lighten my hair 3-4 levels with a vivid color result
Refresh previous Vivid Darks color
Have vivid color with minimal lift
BRIGHTEN FADED ENDS
SUBTLE LIFT & VIVID COLOR
Demi Permanent Color
Vivid Darks Permanent Cream Color
PRODUCT SUGGESTION
Vivid Darks Permanent Cream Color
Vivid Darks 2-in-1 Lightener + Color
OR
OR Vivid Darks Permanent Cream Color NEW GROWTH/ROOTS
Vivid Darks 2-in-1 Lightener + Color
Demi Permanent Color in Red Shade (5VV, 5RR or 7RR)
Vivid Darks 2-in-1 Lightener + Color
Vivid Darks Permanent Cream Color
10vol Developer
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6 GLOSS Product Information, Mixing & Application, Portfolio, Shade Chart, Product Navigation
53
NEW SHINELUXE TOP COAT HAIR GLOSS A HEALTHY BOOST OF COLOR & SHINE
Available in 9 shades: Adds intense, luminous shine Restores color vibrancy Leaves hair smooth and healthy looking Free of ammonia Vegan* *Free of animal-derived ingredients.
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NEW SHINELUXE TOP COAT HAIR GLOSS
9
NEW SHADES
BR
CHOCOLATE GLACÉ
RV
CRIMSON GLOSS
RR
RADIANT ROUGE
GR
AMBER GLOW
NG
GLIMMERING GOLD
NV
ROSE QUARTZ
PV
SHIMMERING ICE
PA
WINTER FROST
CLEAR
SHINE BOOSTER
MIXING RATIO:
Mix 1 part WELLA COLORCHARM ShineLuxe Top Coat Hair Gloss with 2 parts ShineLuxe 6vol. developer. Be sure to put developer in bowl or bottle first. Apply to clean towel dried hair. Process for 20 minutes. Rinse, Shampoo, and Condition.
1 +2
20 min
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FIND OUT WHICH GLOSS SHADE IS RIGHT FOR YOU
56
NG
NG PA
PA PV
PV NV
NV GR
GLIMMERING GOLD
GLIMMERING WINTER GOLDFROST
WINTERSHIMMERING FROST ICE
SHIMMERING ROSEICE QUARTZ
ROSE QUARTZ AMBER GLOW
10
10
9
9
8
8
7
7
6
LEVEL
LEVEL
Below is a chart to help you understand how to use our new gloss line. In this chart, we have provided swatches to illustrate the expected color result of each shade on their recommended hair color levels. Results may vary depending on tone and condition of hair.
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
GR
QUARTZ AMBER GLOW
GR BR AMBER CHOCOLATE GLOW GLACÉ
BR RR
RR RV
CHOCOLATE RADIANT GLACÉ ROUGE
RADIANTCRIMSON ROUGE GLOSS
RV CLEAR
CLEAR
CRIMSONSHINE GLOSS BOOSTER
SHINE BOOSTER
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PRODUCT NAVIGATION WHICH PRODUCT IS RIGHT FOR MY HAIR?
I Want To:
SHINELUXE TOP COAT
DEMIPERMANENT
PERMANENT CREAM COLOR
VIVID DARKS
Add shine and tone without darkening
Refresh or deepen
Change my hair
Make my natural
my hair.
How To Mix:
Result:
color, cover my grays.
1 part ShineLuxe Top Coat
1 part DemiPermanent Color
1 part Permanent Color
2 parts 6Vol WELLA COLORCHARM Developer
2 parts 10vol WELLA COLORCHARM Developer
2 parts any WELLA COLORCHARM Developer
20 minutes
10-20 minutes
30-45 minutes
+
Processing Time:
my hair color.
Translucent shine with tone
+
+
Enhanced and refreshed hair color
Gray coverage
Gray blending
Lifting up to 3 levels
dark hair color vibrant without bleach.
1 part Vivid Darks Permanent Cream Color
+
1 part 30vol WELLA COLORCHARM Developer 30 minutes Vibrant color
Adding depth Changing tone
BEFORE
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AFTER
BEFORE
AFTER
BEFORE
AFTER
BEFORE
AFTER
GET THE LOOK SHINELUXE APPLICATION 01
02
STEP 1: SECTIONING Begin with clean towel dry hair. Section hair into 3 equal parts.
STEP 2: MIXING Mix WELLA COLORCHARM SHINELUXE BR CHOCOLATE GLACÉ with developer in bottle.
Braid 2 of the sections and leave one out to begin application.
Shake until well mixed.
04
05
STEP 4: SIDES Move to the side and apply from the ear to the center part and work color in using hands.
STEP 5: MID-SHAFT AND ENDS Once roots are saturated, apply on midshafts and work through entire head.
06
07
08
STEP 6: SATURATE Use hands to make sure all of the hair is covered.
STEP 7: DISTRIBUTE Use a widetooth comb for thorough distribution from roots to tip.
STEP 8: RINSE AND STYLE Rinse thoroughly shampoo, condition and style as usual.
03
STEP 3: ROOT APPLICATION Apply from back of head to the front. Work into the hair using the tip of the bottle or your fingers.
AFTER
Process for 20 minutes.
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7 TONERS Principles of Toning, Permanent vs. Demi-Permanent Toning, COLORCHARM Toners, Shade Chart, Mixing & Application 60
TONERS WHAT IS TONING? Toning is hair color that is applied after lightening to help achieve your perfect shade of blonde. It is used to enhance or neutralize unwanted brass and warm tones.
TONING WITH PERMANENT VS DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR Permanent and demi-permanent toners are both used to achieve the same results, however they differ in how the tone is delivered to the hair, and how long the results last. Permanent color penetrates the cuticle allowing tone to last longer even when fading is a factor. Demi-permanent wraps color around the cuticle, which fades as it is gradually washed away.
PERMANENT COLOR » Lifts and deposits » Opens the cuticle into the cortex to let dye into the hair » Technically, it never truly leaves but the color can fade over time.
Permanent Color
Demi-Permanent Color
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TONERS Perfect your tone with WELLA COLORCHARM Permanent Toners. Achieve flawless platinums and beiges with WELLA COLORCHARM Permanent Liquid Toners—the #1 permanent toner in the US.* Or try our Permanent Cream Toners to create icy blondes or pastel enhanced tones. Permanent Liquid Toner
» 12 permanent liquid toner shades. » Neutralize brass with up to 90% less breakage** » Works on naturally blonde or pre-lightened hair » Creates hard to achieve shades of blonde (i.e. platinum and beige) » The finishing step to enhance or neutralize warm or cool tones for the perfect shade of blonde. » Gentle on Hair » Provides gorgeously toned, healthy-looking blondes » Vegan*** and free of parabens
Permanent Cream Toner
» 8 permanent cream toner shades. » Neutralize brass with up to 90% less breakage** » 4 icy blonde tones & 4 pastel enhancing tones » Perfectly even tone from root to end » Gentle on Hair » Works on naturally blonde or prelightened hair. » Vegan*** and free of gluten, phathalates, and parabens » Use with 10vol developer only****
* Source Euromonitor International Limited; based on value sales for permanent toner brands in 2020 through all retail channels. Permanent toners are defined as products positioned on pack as a “Toner” and as “Permanent.”. **WELLA COLORCHARM lightener + permanent toner vs. lightener alone. ***Free of animal-derived ingredients ****Using 20vol developer may cause uneven results and scalp sensitivity.
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TONERS HOW DO THEY WORK? » Lightener (bleach) is the first step to going blonde and is used to lighten hair to desired level. » L evel is defined on a scale of 1 to 10, with level 1 being the darkest and level 10 being the lightest.
» T he exposed contributing pigment of any level is defined by how much warmth (also known as brassiness) shows in the hair after lightening.
» Toners are used to enhance or correct the “tone” to a more desirable shade.
TONING EXPOSED PIGMENT
10
When you lighten hair, warm undertones will be exposed—and that can look brassy.
Lightest Blonde
9
For example: If hair color is a level 5 (lightest brown) and you want to lighten it to a level 8 (light blonde) the chart below shows how your hair color will change through the process. Toning helps correct these exposed pigments, to achieve your desired final result.
Very Light Blonde
8 Light Blonde
7 Medium Blonde
6 Dark Blonde
5 Lightest Brown
4
Starting Level
Light Brown
3 Medium Brown
2
Dark Brown
1
BRASS BLUES
COOL DOWN
The exposed contributing pigment for a level 8 is a warm yellow, and may appear brassy after lightening.
You can cancel the warmth by using cool tones.
Black
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TONERS SHADE CHART: LIQUID TONERS Achieve your ideal final shade by taking into account the intensity of neutralization offered by each toner. All toners are shown on level 10 lightest blonde hair. ASH
SILVER
BEIGE
GOLDEN
ROSE GOLD
MIXING » Mix 1 part WELLA COLORCHARM Permanent Liquid Toner with 2 parts 10vol or 20vol Developer.
APPLICATION » Apply to shampooed, towel-dried hair and process for up to 30 minutes, checking frequently for desired result. Shampoo, condition and style as desired.
1 :2 UP TO
PRO TIP: Can be used with a bottle applicator or a bowl and brush
30
MINUTES
Use 10 Vol developer for a gentle or subtle lift while neutralizing unwanted warmth at the same time. Use 20 Vol developer for a slightly more intense lift while neutralizing warmth at the same time. 65
TONERS SHADE CHART: CREAM TONERS 8 cream toner shades—4 icy cool tones and 4 pastel enhancing tones—let you neutralize brass and perfect your blonde. All toners are shown on level 10 lightest blonde hair. Cool Tones
T68
T86
T69
T16
T12
LAVENDER SILK
RADIANT LILAC
PEARL GR AY
POLAR ICE
SILVER MIS T
Warm Tones
T96
T50
T38
MUTED ROSE
PINK BLOSSOM
IVORY
MIXING » Mix 1 part WELLA COLORCHARM Permanent Cream Toner with 2 parts 10vol Developer.
APPLICATION » Apply to shampooed, towel-dried hair and process for up to 10 to 20 minutes, checking frequently for desired result. Shampoo, condition and style as desired.
1 :2 UP TO
10-20 MINUTES
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TONERS LIFTING TO THE RIGHT LEVEL IS KEY To achieve the desired tone, use the chart below as a guide through your lightening and toning process. For optimal results, we recommend that you lighten your hair a shade lighter than your desired tone.
Permanent Liquid Toner T18
Before
After
Permanent Liquid Toner T35
Before
After
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ACHIEVING THE PERFECT TONE MIXING INSTRUCTIONS If you are lightening your hair and are starting with a darker level, your hair may require lightening a second time. STARTING LEVEL
RESULT AFTER 1 APPLICATION
GOAL RESULT
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Black
Dark Brown
Medium Brown
Light Brown
Lightest Brown
Dark Blonde
Medium Blonde
Light Blonde
Very Light Blonde
Lightest Blonde
1 part Lightener + 2 parts 20vol Developer
For example: If your goal is to lift to a level 10 Lightest Ash Blonde and your starting level is a level 3 Medium Brown, you may end up with a level 7 Medium Blonde with an Orange Gold Undertone, see chart above. Your next step is to mix a new lightening formula with 20 Vol Developer and apply to the areas that need to be lifted. Once you have achieved your desired level, rinse, shampoo, condition and proceed with your toner application.
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LIGHTENING & TONING Toning your hair after lightening is the final step to perfecting your blonde. At times, you will need to lighten for longer than 30 minutes or more than once to achieve the correct level of lift when starting with darker hair, especially if it has been previously colored. Below are examples of what you can expect to achieve after lightening both chemically treated and never colored (virgin) hair. RESULTS WILL VARY DEPENDING ON THE HAIR’S CONDITION Formula Used Lightener: WELLA COLORCHARM Lightener + 20-Vol Developer Toner: WELLA COLORCHARM T18 Lightest Ash Blonde (Before) Previously Colored
(Before) Never Colored
»
» Processed after 30 min after Lightener Application*
»
» Processed after 50 min after Lightener Application*
Color is more uneven than hair that has never been colored
»
» Hair color results after toning
Color is more even after toning and closer to hair that has never been colored
*Rinsed, shampooed and dried **Examples were processed with lightener one time
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WHAT YOU’LL NEED TONER
GET THE LOOK
WELLA COLORCHARM Liquid Toner Shade: T30 DEVELOPER
WELLA COLORCHARM Developer 10vol
GLOVES
TOWEL
CAPE OR COLORING SHIRT
CLIPS
BOTTLE APPLICATOR
WIDE-TOOTH COMB
TIMER
BEFORE
PERMANENT LIQUID TONER APPLICATION 01
PRO TIP Hair should be pre-lightened and towel dried before color application
STEP 1: MIX Mix and apply to the root area only using a bottle applicator to help with easy color application.
02
PRO TIP Use your fingers to help with proper saturation.
STEP 2: APPLY TO LENGTHS Apply to the mid-lengths and ends of your hair.
Formula: 1oz of Permanent Liquid Toner T30 & 2oz 10vol Developer
04
03
20 min
STEP 3: PROCESS Process for 20 minutes.
70
STEP 4: RINSE & STYLE Shampoo, condition, rinse and style as desired!
AFTER
NOTES
71
72
8 DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR Principles of Demi-Permanent Color, Shade Palette, Mixing & Application, Pre-Pigmenting 73
DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR Use WELLA COLORCHARM Demi-Permanent color to: » Color or blend grays » Add new richness or fashion tones to your existing color » Tone highlights » Gloss and add shine » Refresh faded color » Color after lightening, permanent wave or chemical relaxing services » Quick color application-processes in 20 minutes or less
21 Demi-Permanent Shades With Added Benefits Shiny, healthy-looking color with less damage* Gentler for all hair textures* Vegan** and free of ammonia, parabens and phtalates Pleasant Fragrance
DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR
Permanent Color
» Ammonia-free. » Molecules get under the outer cuticle of the hair shaft. » They wrap around the hair’s cuticle creating a coating of color that’s gradually washed away. Demi-Permanent Color
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*vs permanent hair color
**free of animal-derived ingredients
DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR: SHADE PALETTE Grouped into shade families with color-coded packaging, finding the perfect shade couldn’t be easier. With a wide palette of Blonde, Red, Violet and deep Brunette shades, we have every color needed to create the look you desire. Our Clear shade adds eyecatching gloss to any color.
BLONDES 10A
9NA
9CB
8N
8G
7N
7A
7WG
6N
6G
Lightest Ash Blonde
Light Natural Ash Blonde
Light Beige Blonde
Light Neutral Blonde
Light Golden Blonde
Medium Neutral Blonde
Medium Cool Blonde
Medium Caramel Blonde
Dark Neutral Blonde
Dark Golden Blonde
BRUNETTES
REDS
VIOLETS
5N
5WG
4N
3N
7RR
5RR
5VV
3VV
Lightest Neutral Brown
Lightest Warm Gold Brown
Light Neutral Brown
Medium Neutral Brown
Light Copper
Medium Red
Plum Brown
Dark Violet Brown
BLACKS 2BBL
1N
Blue Black
Black
CLEAR
Clear Gloss
COOL VS WARM TONES Cooler shades contain blues, grays, violets and greens and cool down the complexion. Warm shades include red, orange and gold tones and warm up the complexion. COOL NEUTRAL WARM TONE KEY
If hair is more than 50% gray, mix equal parts of N with any other tone to achieve desired color results. N = NEUTRAL - Ideal for covering gray
RR = INTENSE RED - For vibrant red shades
G = GOLD - To add a warmth
BBL = INTENSE BLUE BLACK - For rich black with
A = ASH - Cool tones help to reduce unwanted warmth CB = COOL BLONDE - Enhances blondes with cool tones WG = WARM GOLD - For rich warm tones with a hint gold
VV = INTENSE VIOLET - For vibrant violet shades a hint of cool blue
C = CLEAR - Enhance shine to your existing hair color
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DO IT WITH DEMI GLOSSING & TONING WITH DEMI-PERMANENT WELLA COLORCHARM Demi-Permanent color is an excellent choice for toning and glazing. Porous hair may require using a shade 1-2 levels lighter than the desired result. » For perfect gray blending, use any of our N shades with no ammonia. » For glossing or adding shine, use with developer (1:2). » Use any of our brunette shades to create dimension during balayage or highlighting. » Pre-pigment for color correction and tint back using our reds to provide the perfect end result.
APPLICATION ON CHEMICALLY RELAXED HAIR Wait 2 weeks after the chemical relaxer service before applying WELLA COLORCHARM Demi-Permanent color. Check hair and scalp before color service. Do not proceed if scalp shows signs of irritation. Check porosity and elasticity of hair. Take a strand test to determine color results. Shampoo and then apply a conditioning treatment at least 24 hours prior to the color service as per general instructions.
SAME-DAY CHEMICAL SERVICE COLOR APPLICATION Coloring hair and providing a chemical service such as a permanent wave or lightener may be done on the same day with WELLA COLORCHARM Demi-Permanent Color. However, this requires a careful analysis of the condition of the hair and scalp. Do not proceed if the scalp shows signs of irritation or if the hair is overly porous or shows sign of damage.
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DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR: MIXING INSTRUCTIONS MIXING INSTRUCTIONS Choose your preferred application method: bowl and brush or applicator bottle. Mix 1 part WELLA COLORCHARM Demi-Permanent Hair Color with 2 parts WELLA COLORCHARM 10 Vol Cream Developer. If using a bowl and brush, be sure to use a non-metallic bowl and mix carefully to avoid spilling, until it achieves a gel-like consistency. Always wear gloves regardless of application method.
1 :2
PRO TIPS: If using an applicator bottle, pour the developer in the bottle first, followed by the color for easiest mixing. Coloring with a bottle offers quick and easy coverage.
UP TO
10-20
MINUTES WITHOUT HEAT
STRAND TEST Performing a strand test is always recommended, especially if the hair is porous or has previously been subjected to lighteners, permanent waves, chemical hair relaxers or hair color. 1). Mix a small amount of chosen color(s) formula according to directions. 2). Apply to selected strands of hair in a discreet area. 3). Process for 10 minutes, check color results.
4). Continue to check every 5 minutes until desired result is achieved.
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DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR: APPLICATION TECHNIQUES FIRST-TIME COLOR APPLICATION Before applying, shampoo and towel dry hair. Wait 2 weeks after a chemical relaxer service before applying WELLA COLORCHARM Demi-Permanent Hair Color.
STEP 1
Section into 4 parts.
STEP 2
Mix 1:2 - 1 part (1 oz) WELLA COLORCHARM Demi-Permanent Hair Color to 2 parts (2 oz) WELLA COLORCHARM 10 Volume Developer.
STEP 3
Starting at the top front side section, apply color starting at the root, working your way down through the ends. Comb the color through for even distribution. Follow the same pattern around the entire head, keeping your sections clean for control. Comb the color through to distribute evenly.
STEP 4 Process for 10 to 20 minutes with no added heat.
FINISH Rinse out the color with lukewarm water, lightly shampoo, condition and rinse again. Towel blot hair.
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PRO TIP: Wearing gloves, massage the color into the hair. Especially on thick or very long hair.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED ALL OVER COLOR
WELLA COLORCHARM Demi-Permanent Color Shade: 2BBL
GET THE LOOK
DEVELOPER
WELLA COLORCHARM Developer 10vol
GLOVES
BOWLS
WHISK
CLIPS
COLOR BRUSHES
TOWEL
CAPE OR COLORING SHIRT
WIDE-TOOTH COMB
BOTTLE APPLICATOR
TONER FOR POP OF COLOR
WELLA COLORCHARM Permanent Liquid Toner Shade: T18
BEFORE
ALL OVER DEMI COLOR APPLICATION PRO TIP
01
02
03
STEP 1: PREP Section hair for control and apply barrier cream to prevent skin from staining.
STEP 2: MIX Mix 1 part Demi-Permanent 2BBL + 2 parts 10vol Developer in a bowl.
STEP 3: APPLY TO ROOTS Using the brush, begin applying to the root area all over.
05
06
PRO TIP
04
Pin each section after applying to prevent staining.
Use your fingers to help with proper saturation.
30 min
STEP 5: PROCESS Process for 30 minutes.
STEP 4: APPLY TO LENGTHS After applying to the root, apply to the mid-shaft and ends.
STEP 6: RINSE & STYLE Shampoo, condition, rinse and style as desired!
ADD WEFTS FOR A POP OF COLOR (OR COLOR PRE-LIGHTENED HAIR): You can do this while your hair is processing! 01
PRO TIP Wear gloves and protect your surface while coloring wefts.
02
PRO TIP Saturate the hair for best color results.
AFTER
03
04
20 min
STEP 1: PREP Start with very light pale blonde pre-lightened hair.
STEP 2: MIX & APPLY Mix 1 part Permanent Liquid Toner T14 + 2 parts 10-vol Developer in a bottle for easier application. Then apply to wefts.
STEP 3: PROCESS Process for 20 minutes.
STEP 4: RINSE & STYLE Shampoo, condition, rinse and style as desired!
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COLOR CORRECTING: PRE-PIGMENTING WELLA COLORCHARM Demi-Permanent Color is the perfect tool for corrective color. It can pre-pigment the hair to replace depleted natural tones, reinforce warm or delicate red tones and prevent porous hair from “grabbing” cool tones. By creating a more even “surface” on overly porous areas of the hair, the new color will take evenly, from roots to ends.
WELLA COLORCHARM Demi-Permanent Colors are completely intermixable and are used to replace contributing pigments missing from the hair when tinting-back hair from light to dark. 1.) D ETERMINE THE DESIRED LEVEL FOR TINTING-BACK
Directly to the right of “Desired Level” is the recommended WELLA COLORCHARM Demi-Permanent formula. Always perform a strand test to check for accuracy. Example: If desired level of tint-back is level 6, Dark Blonde. The recommended WELLA COLORCHARM formula is 7RR.
2.) MIXING
Always mix 1 part WELLA COLORCHARM Demi-Permanent Color with 2 parts WELLA COLORCHARM 10 vol. cream developer.
3.) A PPLICATION & PROCESSING TIME
Apply to lightly shampooed, toweldried hair. Process up to 20 minutes. When desired results are achieved, rinse until water runs clear only and towel dry.
4.) T INT-BACK APPLICATION
Apply the desired formula evenly and generously. Follow the recommended timing. Only pull color through to the ends as determined by strand testing.
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Desired Level
Pre-Pigmenting Formula
10
Choose the desired COLORCHARM shade level 9 or 10
Lightest Blonde
9
Very Light Blonde
8
Light Blonde
Choose the desired COLORCHARM shade level 9 or 10
½ oz 9NA
7
2 oz 8G
Medium Blonde
6
2 oz 7RR
Dark Blonde
5
Light Brown
1 oz 5RR
4
Dark Brown
2
Darkest Brown
1 oz 7RR
2 oz 5RR
Medium Brown
3
1-½ oz 8G
1.5 oz 5RR
0.5 oz 3VV
½ oz 5RR
½ oz 3VV
DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR: APPLICATION TECHNIQUES GRAY HAIR BLENDING WELLA COLORCHARM Demi-Permanent Color allows you to match your existing color for gray blending. Try applying your formula with a vent brush for a natural-looking effect.
PRO TIP: For light, medium and dark brown, you can add up to 1 oz of a red/violet, gold, warm or cool shade (1-2 levels lighter) to the formula if a different tone is desired other than natural.
Formula
Desired Level
8
Light Blonde
1 ½ oz 8N
½ oz 8A
7
Medium Blonde
1 ½ oz 7N
½ oz 8A
6
1 ½ oz 6N
½ oz 7A
Dark Blonde
5
Light Brown
2 oz 5N
Medium Brown
4
2 oz 4N
3
2 oz 3N
Dark Brown
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9 LIGHTENER Principles of Lightening, Lifting Guide, Mixing, Techniques & Application, Post Color & Lightening Treatment 82
83
LIGHTENER Hair lightener is a chemical that lightens the color of your hair strands and has the ability to lift natural or chemically treated hair. Lightener is mixed with developer and penetrates the hair cortex to dissolve the hair’s natural melanin (your hair’s natural color). The longer you leave it in your hair, the lighter in color your hair becomes. Your hair can either lighten to a yellow or reddish tone depending on the natural hair tone, eventually lightening to platinum blonde.
LIGHTENER
Lightener
» Opens up the cuticle layer of the hair and enters the cortex. » Breaks down the melanin molecules, into smaller colorless components.
LIGHTENERS ARE USED FOR: » Removing color on natural or previously colored hair » Highlighting, balayage, or other freehand techniques » Full head lightening
MEDULLA
» Innermost layer
CORTEX
» Second layer » Contains natural color (melanin) »Q uality determines strength and elasticity »W here coloring and lightening takes place
CUTICLE
» Outermost Layer »C uticle is translucent, but protects the cortex » Shows signs of damage to the shaft
84
LIGHTENER LIFTING GUIDE: On-Scalp Application
10vol for lightening 1 to 2 levels of lift
20vol for lightening 2 to 4 levels of lift
Off-Scalp Application Face-Framing, Highlights, Ombré, Balayage Use 20 to 40vol developer depending on how light you want to go and the strength of your hair. 10 Lightest Blonde
9 Very Light Blonde
8 Light Blonde
7 Medium Blonde
6 Dark Blonde
5 Lightest Brown
4 Light Brown
3 Medium Brown
2 Dark Brown
1 Black
Extra lift: off-scalp application only
30vol 3-5 levels of lift One application
20vol 2-4 levels of lift Second application if needed
40vol 5-7 levels of lift One application Standard lift: on- and off-scalp
30vol 3-5 levels of lift
20vol 2-4 levels of lift 85
LIGHTENER: MIXING INSTRUCTIONS
WELLA COLORCHARM powder lightener is perfect for all-over blonde and highlights
BENEFITS » Up to 7 levels of lift » Controlled and reliable lift with anti-brass results » Excellent for full head lightening and regrowth » Dust-free formula » On- and off-the-scalp usage » Works on all hair types and on previously colored hair
MIXING LIGHTENER
PRO TIP: Use a non-metallic bowl.
For off-scalp application: Mix 1 oz of Powder Lightener with 1.5 oz to 2 oz of 20, 30 or 40vol WELLA COLORCHARM Cream Developer. For on-scalp application: Mix 1 oz of Powder Lightener with 2 oz of 10 or 20vol WELLA COLORCHARM Cream Developer.
APPLICATION Apply evenly to unwashed hair. If hair has build-up, shampoo one day prior to lightening. Processing time depends on the condition of the hair and the desired blonde result. Check hair every 5 to 10 minutes until achieving desired result. Process for up to 50 minutes.* *Processing time depends on the condition of the hair and the desired blonde result.
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LIGHTENER: TECHNIQUES LIGHTENING VIRGIN HAIR: MID-LENGTHS AND ENDS STEP 1
Start with the mid-lengths and ends. Section into 4 parts, from ear to ear and front to back.
STEP 2
Mix 1:2-1 part (1 oz) WELLA COLORCHARM lightener + 2 parts (2 oz) cream developer (see previous mixing instructions).
STEP 3
Apply to mid-lengths and ends first. Take diagonal sections at the top of the right back section and work downward to the nape area. Repeat at the left back section. Move to the right front side working toward the hairline in diagonal sections, then the front left side.
STEP 4
Check visually and start applying the roots when lightening result in mid-lengths and ends is achieved. Process for up to 50 minutes.
LIGHTENING VIRGIN HAIR: ROOTS STEP 1
Apply to the roots starting on the cross parting.
STEP 2
Check the lightening result every 5-10 minutes BEFORE rinsing. If needed, extend the processing time up to 50 minutes. Once the target result has been achieved, rinse, shampoo and condition.
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NEW WELLA COLORCHARM POST COLOR & LIGHTENING TREATMENT Stengthens hair by stabilizing bonds with up to 90% less breakage.*
*vs pre-colored hair when using WELLA COLORCHARM Post Color & Lightening Treatment
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POST COLOR & LIGHTENING TREATMENT BOND BUILDING TREATMENT: Bond building treatment strengthens hair after chemical treatments. Provides up to 90% less breakage.*
Before
After
Before
After
Improves condition of dry, brittle hair. Hair feels healthier and more manageable.* Conditions and adds shine. Vegan**
HOW TO USE:
. STEP 1
STEP 2
Mix color or lightener.
Apply on hair. Develop as usual.
STEP 3 Rinse, shampoo and towel-dry.
STEP 4
Apply WELLA COLORCHARM Post Color & Lightening Treatment. Leave in hair for 5 minutes.
STEP 5 Rinse and style as usual. *vs pre-colored hair when using WELLA COLORCHARM Post Color & Lightening Treatment **Free of animal-derived ingredients.
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NOTES
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10 GLOSSARY
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GLOSSARY B
BUMPING THE BASE
A base bump is an addition to your usual highlight retouch. It is when a stylist applies an all over base color at your roots in addition to your highlights.
D
BRASS(Y)
DENSITY
Hair density is the number of individual strands per square inch on the scalp. The average person has approximately 2,200 strands of hair per square inch on their head and sheds between 50 and 100 hairs per day.
DIAMETER/TEXTURE
Unwanted warm tones that show up in colored hair.
This refers to the thickness or width of a single strand. Fine texture hair will feel like silk. Medium texture will feel like thread. Coarse texture will feel like wire.
BALAYAGE
From the French word balayer, which means “to sweep.” This refers to the color application, not the color itself. Balayage is a technique where hair color is painted onto the hair to create a graduated, more natural-looking highlight effect
DEMARCATION LINE
The line where the natural hair and chemically processed hair meet. The demarcation line is very important to try to eliminate when you are creating a new color.
DOUBLE PROCESS
C
A double process color refers to a twostep service. This is generally done by either lightening the hair first, then going in after and applying a color or glaze, or this is done by applying a color then following up again with a color (permanent, demi, or semi).
CROWN
The crown is the top portion of the head behind the vertex. The anatomy of the crown varies between different organisms. The human crown is made of three layers of the scalp above the skull. The crown also covers a range of bone sutures, and contains blood vessels and branches of the trigeminal nerve.
COLOR MELT
A technique that is typically used to blend highlights or balayage into a client’s root color as the roots grow out.
D
ELASTICITY
F
FRINGE
COLOR ALLERGY
A negative reaction from a chemical service that can include, but not be limited to stinging or burning sensation on the scalp, face, or neck.
COLOR BANDING
Bands occur when you apply new color to previously colored hair, which has partly grown out. When you apply the new allover color, its absorption is affected by the existing color, and the result is hair that may appear to have two different tones, or a visible band.
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This refers to how long a single strand of hair can stretch before it returns to its normal state. In order to find out what the elasticity of your client’s hair is, wet a strand of hair and stretch it as much as you can. If the hair retracts back to the original length, the elasticity is good, and you should be able to proceed with the service. If the hair does not retract after being stretched, there is a lack of elasticity from some damage and you should be cautious when moving forward with a service.
Bangs, or a fringe, are strands or locks of hair that fall over the scalp’s front hairline to cover the forehead, usually just above the eyebrows, though they can range to various lengths.
H
HIGHLIGHT/LOWLIGHT
This is a process of changing a person’s hair color, using lightener or hair color to lift the level or brightness of hair strands.
P
HOT ROOTS
A term that professional colorists use when the roots of the hair are noticeably, and unintentionally, warmer than the rest of the hair color. With hot roots, the hair color near the scalp is usually redder and can appear orange.
N
O
Porosity refers to how well the hair absorbs and holds moisture and is affected by the cuticle, which determines how easily moisture and oils pass in and out of the hair. Porosity is mostly genetic, but it can also be affected by factors such as exposure, heat treatments, and chemical processing.
The nape is the back of the neck. In technical anatomical/medical terminology, the nape is also called the nucha.
PPD (PARAPHENYLENEDIAMINE) PPD is used in hair dye because it is a permanent dye that gives a natural look.
OXIDATION
Combine or become combined chemically with oxygen.
PTD (P-PHENYLENEDIAMINE) An organic compound used in over 99% of all permanent hair dyes.
OCCIPITAL
OMBRÉ
This is the blending of one-color hue to another, usually moving tints and shades from light to dark. It has become a popular feature for hair coloring, nail art, and even baking, in addition to its uses in home decorating and graphic design.
P
Phthalates, or phthalate esters, are esters of phthalic acid. They are mainly used as plasticizers, i.e., substances added to plastics to increase their flexibility, transparency, durability, and longevity.
POROSITY
NAPE
Bone forming the back and back part of the base of the cranium, the part of the skull that encloses the brain.
PHTALATES
P
RETOUCH
To color (new growth of hair) to match previously dyed, tinted, or bleached hair.
REGROWTH
Also known as “roots,” the new hair growth closest to the scalp is called regrowth. It is the natural hair color.
PARIETAL RIDGE
This is the widest area of the head, starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown.
PATTERN
The classifications for wave pattern are straight, curly, coily, and zigzag. Unlike the other considerations, the hair pattern is not a reference to hair health. 93
GLOSSARY T
U
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TEMPLE
The temple is a latch where four skull bones fuse: the frontal, parietal, temporal, and sphenoid. It is located on the side of the head behind the eye between the forehead and the ear. The temporal muscle covers this area and is used during mastication.
UNDERLYING PIGMENTS
This describes the natural pigments that make up every natural hair color. When formulating hair color, you must take into consideration the underlying pigments and how they will affect the color process. Failing to take this into account can be disastrous for your final results.
V
VIRGIN HAIR
W
WEAVE
Hair that has not been chemically treated.
This process entails having your stylist “weave” out tiny strips of hair creating a stripe, also known as a highlight in the hair. The hair that is weaved out is then placed into a foil to process to ensure that the product being used stays contained and does not touch the base color
NOTES
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