Big Bend And Texas Mountains Travel Guide 2026 by Digital Publisher

PARKS

NATIONAL & STATE

2026, FREE

CITY LISTINGS LODGING, FOOD & MORE

MAPS

REGIONAL & COMMUNITY

Contents

BIG BEND & TEXAS MOUNTAINS TRAVEL GUIDE

8 Welcome to the Guide 10 Regional Map 12 Calendar of Events 14 Big Bend National Park 19 Guadalupe Mountains National Park 21 Texas State Parks City Listings TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL COMMUNITIES

25 34 37 40 43 48 52 56 60

Alpine El Paso Fort Davis Lajitas Marathon Marfa Presidio Terlingua/Study Butte Van Horn ROAD TRIP CITIES

63 64 69 71 72

Del Rio Fort Stockton Monahans Ozona Toyahvale/Balmorhea

Feature

MAX ST. JOHN

74 Wide Open Spaces and Bold Art 80 Last Look BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 7

THANK YOU for picking up a copy of

the 2026 Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide! This is the 13th year our team has had the privilege of publishing this travel guide. It has been published each year since 1984. I’d like to thank Wendy Little and all the Texas Mountain Trail board members for their commitment to the travel guide and for the opportunity given to our team to publish it. I love to travel throughout the area, and even before I became the publisher I carried the publication with me for vital information and tips. It’s an incredible resource for anyone wishing to explore the region. For example, you’ll find information on various parks (state and national), as well as a city-bycity guide. In addition, we have a story featuring artists, art-related events and museums (see page 74). The allure of the Big Bend region is strong, and whether you’re a first-time or repeat visitor, I hope you have a wonderful time in this amazing part of Texas. We have many important contributors to the travel guide, and you can read about some of them on this page, but in particular I’d like to thank the guide’s designer, David Loyola, who I’ve worked with for a number of years, and for the fourth time on the travel guide. As far as my background, I wear a few hats. In addition to being the founder and publisher of Texas Music magazine, I also produce Viva Big Bend, which is held in Alpine, Fort Davis, Marathon, Marfa, Presidio and Terlingua. Our music festival is the last weekend of July each year. I hope you’ll find as much enjoyment in visiting this area as we do in promoting it. Thank you for reading the Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide, and happy trails! — Stewart Ramser, Publisher

A MESSAGE FROM

TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL

WELCOME TO the beautiful mountains of far West Texas! Enjoy our charming frontier communities, historic sites, cultural attractions and events, colorful sunsets and friendly people! Our Texas Mountain Trail nonprofit organization is proud to present the latest edition of the Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide with Ramser Media, and we hope it helps you get the most out of your stay. Since 2005, we’ve been reaching out to travelers with information about far West Texas, encouraging folks to spend their vacations in our mountains. Kick back, enjoy the quiet, seek your adventure, and have the time of your life! — Wendy Little

8 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

Contributors David G. Loyola David G. Loyola is the designer for Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide. Born near El Paso, he now lives with his family in McAllen, where he works as a graphic designer specializing in editorial art direction and branding design. Along with his wife and two young children, he enjoys exploring this beautiful state.

Lee Hoy Lee Hoy is a professional photographer and the owner of Big Bend Birding & Photo Tours. His mission is to share the beauty of Big Bend National Park and the surrounding region with others. Lee first went to Big Bend in August 1989 and saw a Canyon Towhee, which ignited a passion for birding and bird photography.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JULIE KUNKLE, COURTESY DAVID G. LOYOLA, COURTESY LEE HOY, COURTESY WENDY LITTLE

PUBLISHER’S LETTER

Map

349

115

385

Must a n

137

MARTIN

176

raw

ANDREWS

302

LOVING

WINKLER

302

HUDSPETH

CULBERSON

MOUNTAIN STAND ARD TIME CENTRAL STANDARD TIME

1111

Sierra Blanca

Ri n ra

Pecos River

Balmorhea

STERLING

349

UPTON

137

329

385

Fort Stockton

385

163

349

190 349

PECOS

166

190

ra w

Ozona

Sheffield

277

BREWSTER

Sonora

285

118

385

CROCKET T

TERRELL

Alpine Marfa 67

349

Marathon

2810

Sanderson BREWSTER 118

385

163

Pe co sR ive r

SUT TON

EDWARDS

277

Langtry

377

Comstock

Presidio

377

Dryden

Rocksprings

277 377

BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK

BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK

Study Terlingua Butte

Lajitas

Chisos Basin Castolon

Heath Canyon

e or m ca k Sy Cree

Del Rio

Amistad International Reservoir

Ciudad Acuña

Rio Grande Village

Bracketville 90

277

KINNEY 131

MAVERICK 57

Eagle Pass Piedras Negras T R A V E L

TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL BOARD OF DIRECTORS

COMANCHE ST

RD CH

E AV D

ITT AVE SUMM

RAN

E AV D OA

ILR E RA

W SPRING ST

SON

DER HWY

CARDINAL ST

BLUEBIRD ST

385

SAN

W GONZALEZ ST

GONZALEZ RD

ATKINS ST

N GATLIN ST

N URIAS ST

MILL ST

FM 170

N SLATE ST

FM 170

Gra

170

N FORT ST

S NELSON ST

S MAIN ST

S JACKSON ST

S YOUNG ST

S FRONT ST

4TH ST

Rio

O IC EX

Presidio

N ALAMO ST

James Rooney Memorial Park

W 1ST ST

W EL PASO ST

S VALENTINE ST

S RIO ST

FM 170

N PARK ST

285

W DIVISION ST

W JAMES ST

W GALLAGHER ST

W RYAN ST

S BUTZ ST

MILLINGTON BLVD

NDO

ORLA R AVE

RIVE

N ORIENT ST

S SUMMIT ST

ROLLINS ST

FM 170

VELA ST

ORNELAS ST

GONAZLES AVE

TRAVER ST

PROPST ST

1 mile

385

E 5TH ST

BROOKS ST

285

E 7TH ST

W CALLAGHAN ST

385

Pat Taylor Field

385

E 8TH ST

W 3RD ST

DURAN ST

BEACH AVE

N ST GALL ST

N VALENTINE ST

N FRONT ST

E 9TH ST

W 4TH ST

W 2ND ST

S KANSAS ST

S MISSOURI ST

S RIO ST

W JAMES ST

AVE

N ORIENT ST

N WILLIAMS ST

N WATER ST

N ROONEY ST

E 10TH ST

194

E 6TH ST

W 5TH ST W 4TH ST

S COLPITTS ST

194

SIERRA AVE

N NELSON ST

W 7TH ST

S PECOS ST

S SAGE ST

LONG HORN AVE

A S ST

CALIXTRO & JUAN QUIROZ ST

TOMAS ORNEL

MANUEL ORNELAS ST

O’REILLY ST

N MAIN ST

N YOUNG ST

N GILLIS ST

N BUTZ ST

W 8TH ST

W SHERER ST

SANTA CRUZ AVE

N JACKSON ST

N TEXAS ST

N KANSAS ST

N OKLAHOMA ST

N MISSOURI ST

E 13TH ST

W 3RD ST W 2ND ST

E 14TH ST

W 13TH ST

W 6TH ST

W 4TH ST

W GALLAGHER ST

CHICAGO ST

10 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

N RIO ST

N EVERTS ST

W CALLAGHAN ST

W JAMES ST

AD LRO

O’REILLY ST

W HORNBECK BLVD W 14TH ST

COVER PHOTO: Big Bend National Park. Photo by Tony Maples

MARKET ST

COMMERCE ST

W RAI

1 mile

N PECOS ST

W 6TH ST

THOMSON ST

S SYCAMORE ST

BL VD

S GREASEWOOD ST

W 7TH ST

N MCINTYRE ST

W 8TH ST

DEES ST

T ST

SUNSET ST

W DICKINSON BLVD W 9TH ST

W 9TH ST N LODAL ST

N ARNET

DYKE ST

PECAN ST

N PINE ST

W DICKINSON BLVD W 9TH ST

W 5TH ST

HURD AVE

W 16TH ST

W 11TH ST

W 9TH ST

DYKE ST

W 18TH ST

W 12TH ST

BUNTON AVE

SILVER AVE

BLEDSOE BLVD

DOD AVE

OJINAGA AVE

RALPH ENGLAND ST

JULIAN TAVAREZ ST

ALFREDO BAEZA ST

BRIDGE ST

ISHMAEL SPENCER

JUAREZ ST

IGNACIO ST

FRANCISCO SPENCER ST

THOMPSON ST

LOVETT ST

SCOTT ST

PARIS ST

LONDON ST DUPUY AVE

MARKET ST

COMMERCE ST

67 MADRID ST

FOOTHILL BLVD

ERMA AVE

ASHLAND ST

FERNANDO DALY ST

LAFAYETTE ST

COMMERCE ST

BARTON AVE

BLEDSOE BLVD

MARKET ST

BOMAR AVE

LEATON ST

CASSELL ST

E 19TH ST

Fort Stockton High School

W 17TH ST

W 14TH ST

W 12TH ST

ALP

ALPINE ST

LAGONA AVE

BRIDGE ST

INE

W DICKINSON BLVD

N OAK ST

VD BL LOUVAIN BLVD

REDWOOD ST

LL ROSEDALE ST

LOUVAIN BLVD

ALTON AVE

LONG HORN AVE

HENRY DALY ST

SIMON GONZALEZ ST

BLEDSOE BLVD

DOD AVE

ROSEDALE AVE

W 21ST ST W PANTHER ST WESTWIND DR

W HORNBACK BLVD

285

W 14TH ST

N COLPITTS ST

RALPH ENGLAND ST

1ST AVE

1ST ST

N MARSHALL ST

2ND AVE

JOSE RODRIGUEZ ST

DIAZ ST

EL CAMPO ST

PORTO RICO ST

HOWARD ST

BELMONT ST

LOUVAIN BLVD

CASSELL ST

LEATON ST EDMUNDO M. NIETO ST

285

RA ILR OA

CEDAR AVE

Fort Stockton

FM 170 SHAFTER WAY

Rio Grande

ELM ST

Robert Alvarez (Chair) — Visit Big Bend Randall Kinzie (Vice Chair/LLC Manager) — Stone Village Tourist Camp and Market, Fort Davis Pam Knapen (Treasurer) — Fort Davis Chamber of Commerce Chris Ruggia (Secretary) — Visit Alpine Veronica Castro — Visit El Paso Danielle Brisette (ex officio) — Magoffin Home State Historic Site, El Paso Rick Gupman (ex officio) — Big Bend National Park

277

G U I D E

PUBLISHER: Stewart Ramser EDITOR: Tom Buckley DESIGN: David Loyola COPY EDITOR: Kirstin Cutts CONTRIBUTORS: Wendy Little

285

377

Junction

Telegraph South Llano River

VAL VERDE

Rio Grande

KIMBLE

River North Llano

ver West Nu eces Ri

PRESIDIO

Shafter

137

Fort Davis

Bu ck ho rn D

Iraan

Ruidosa

163

REAGAN

329

JEFF DAVIS

505

158

Sterling City

MIDLAND

CRANE

Balmorhea Lake

GLASSCOCK

Co Rivncho er

Imperial Reservoir

MEXICO

Kent

Van Horn

Lake Toyah

rth

Odessa

Monahans

reek

Pecos

163

158

302

ECTOR 20

115

WARD

REEVES

Midland

158

Red Bluff Reservoir

Socorro San Elizario 20

180

River

180

El Paso

GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK

349

128

Devils

EL PASO

176

115

NEW MEXICO

Toyah C

•CALE NDAR• OF EVENTS

JANUARY

BUILDING BRIDGES ART SHOW

BLACK-EYED PEA OFF

Van Horn Convention Center 432-283-2682 2026 Dates: April 22-25 SPIRITS OF THE WEST

BIG BEND ULTRA

Downtown Alpine spiritsfestwtx.com 2026 Dates: Apr. 24–25

Big Bend Ranch State Park bigbend50.com 2026 Date: Jan. 18

MAY

FEBRUARY RIO BRAVO SONGS

Rio Bravo Ranch riobravoranchtx.com 2026 Dates: Feb. 19-21 LONE STAR COWBOY POETRY GATHERING

Sul Ross State University Alpine lonestarcowboypoetry.com 2026 Dates: Feb. 19–21 See p. 27 for details

MICHELOB ULTRA EL PASO MARATHON

El Paso elpasomarathon.org 2026 Date: Feb. 22

APRIL

Prude Ranch near Fort Davis texasstarparty.org 2026 Dates: May 10–17 See p. 38 for details ALPINE COWBOYS BASEBALL

Kokernot Field Alpine alpine.pecosleague.com 2026 Dates: mid-May through July See p. 27 for details

JUNE THEATRE OF THE BIG BEND

Sul Ross State University Alpine sulross.edu/news/tag/theatre-ofthe-big-bend 2026 Dates: TBA SMOKE IN THE MOUNTAINS BBQ & RIBEYE SHOOTOUT

Jeff Davis County Courthouse Fort Davis fortdavis.com 2026 Dates: June 5-6 FRONTIER DAYS

EL PASO CHIHUAHUAS BASEBALL

Southwest University Park El Paso milb.com/el-paso 2026 Dates: Mar. 27–Sept. 20 DARK SKIES FESTIVAL

McDonald Observatory, Presidio, Alpine, Terlingua and more mcdonaldobservatory.org/ festival 2026 Dates: Apr. 13–19

VIVA BIG BEND

Alpine, Marfa, Marathon, Fort Davis, Presidio and Terlingua vivabigbend.com 2026 Dates: July 22–26

TEXAS STAR PARTY

MARATHON FISH FRY

Community Center Marathon marathontexas.com 2026 Date: Feb. 21 See p. 45 for details

Post Park Marathon marathontexas.com 2026 Date: July 4 See p. 44 for details

Downtown Van Horn vanhorntexas.org 2026 Date: June 20

JULY “COOLEST” 4TH OF JULY CELEBRATION

Downtown Fort Davis fortdavis.com 2026 Date: July 3-4 See p. 38 for details

AUGUST BIG BEND RANCH RODEO

S.A.L.E. Arena Alpine bigbendranchrodeo.com 2026 Dates: August 7–8 See p. 27 for details

SEPTEMBER

High Frontier Fort Davis fortdavis.com 2026 Dates: Oct. 2-3

Presidio County Courthouse Marfa 2026 Dates: Sept. 5–6 See p. 50 for details

BIG BEND OCTANE FEST

TRAPPINGS OF TEXAS

JOHN PRINE NIGHT

Museum of the Big Bend Alpine museumofthebigbend.com Opening weekend: TBA See p. 27 for details WEST FEST CABRITO COOKOFF AND DANCE

Post Park Marathon marathontexas.com 2026 Dates: TBA See p. 44 for details CYCLEFEST

Prude Ranch Fort Davis pbbatx.com/cyclefest 2026 Dates: Sept. 19-20 See p. 38 for details NATIONAL PUBLIC LANDS DAY

Big Bend National Park publiclandsday.org 2026 Date: Sept. 26 See p. 18 for details

Viva Big Bend celebrates its 15th edition in 2026.

MOON & TUNES FESTIVAL

MARFA LIGHTS FESTIVAL

The Milky Way over Mt. Locke. The region's dark skies are a big attraction and the focus of April's Dark Skies Festival.

12 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

OCTOBER

Alpine & Big Bend Region thestablealpine.com 2026 Dates: Oct. 9-12 The French Co. Grocer Marathon frenchcogrocer.com 2026 Date: Oct. 10 CHINATI WEEKEND

Multiple venues Marfa chinati.org 2026 Dates: TBA See p. 50 for details MARATHON 2 MARATHON

Marathon marathon2marathon.com 2026 Date: Oct. 24 See p. 44 for details EL PASO WINEFEST

Main St. at Stanton El Paso elpasowinefest.com 2026 Dates: TBA

NOVEMBER FRANK X. TOLBERTWICK FOWLER ORIGINAL TERLINGUA INTERNATIONAL CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP COOK-OFF Terlingua

abowlofred.com 2026 Dates: Nov. 4-7 See p. 58 for details

TERLINGUA INTERNATIONAL CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP

Rancho CASI de los Chisos casichili.net 2026 Dates: TBA See p. 58 for details ARTWALK ALPINE

Multiple venues Alpine artwalkalpine.com 2026 Dates: Nov. 20–21 See p. 26 for details FRONTIER CHRISTMAS

Downtown Fort Davis fortdavis.com 2026 Date: Nov. 28 See p. 39 for details

DECEMBER LIGHTED CHRISTMAS PARADE & CHRISTMAS MARKET

Convention Center Van Horn vanhorntexas.org 2026 Date: Dec. 5 CHRISTMAS IN ALPINE

Multiple venues Alpine visitalpinetx.com/events 2026 Dates: TBA MARFA HOLIDAY BAZAAR

Multiple venues Marfa marfachamberofcommerce.org 2026 Date: TBA FIESTA DE NOCHA BUENA

Main Street Marathon marathontexas.com 2026 Date: TBA See p. 44 for details

FROM TOP: TONY DREWRY, COURTESY MCDONALD OBSERVATORY

Starlight Theatre parking lot Terlingua Always on Jan. 1 See p. 58 for details

MARATHON INDEPENDENCE DAY CHILI COOK-OFF AND DANCE

BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK

TONY MAPLES

ENCOMPASSING MORE THAN 800,000 ACRES OF MOUNTAIN CLIFFS, DESERT EXPANSES AND TOWERING RIVER CANYONS, BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK IS THE KING OF TEXAS’ NATIONAL PUBLIC AREAS, SELECTED BY NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FOR ITS “BEST OF THE WORLD 2023“ FEATURE

14 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 15

GUADALUPE any features set MTS. NP Big Bend apart from its national park brethren, including the Van Horn fact that it is the only one to contain an entire mountain ● range — the Chisos — within Alpine its borders. Dedicated in 1944, the park is nestled in the bend BIG BEND NP of the Rio Grande River along the Texas-Mexico border, where outstanding examples of Chihuahuan Desert topography and ecology beckon nature enthusiasts from around the world. A land of contrasts, Big Bend contains geological marvels, historic and prehistoric treasures and an amazing diversity of plant and animal life across its dramatic range of elevations. From its lowest point of 1,850 feet in Rio Grande Village to Emory Peak at 7,825 feet, the park presents impressive changes in climate, with temperatures in the desert routinely 10 to 20 degrees warmer than in the mountains. Desert opportunities abound. Numerous trails — from short and very well developed to long, rugged and remote — offer exceptional views. Back-country roads lead to private backcountry camping sites available for both drive-in and backpacking options with a permit. Historic sites and ruins are numerous. Opportunities for solitude are many. Big Bend National Park is also arguably the most ecologically diverse park in the entire national parks system. It is known to have more species of birds, plants, butterflies, bats, reptiles and even ants than any other U.S. national park.

NOT MIS

•

BIGD

The Chisos Mountains offer high-elevation hiking, with trails for all skill levels. The famed South Rim has both a dramatic drop-off and an unobstructed view to the horizon line on a clear day. Boot Canyon contains the largest trees in the park and some of the largest of their species in the country. Emory Peak Trail has dramatic views of both the south and north sides of the mountain. Birding is excellent in the mountains, especially in the spring and fall. Spring sees the arrival of the Colima Warbler. The only place that this bird is found in the U.S. is in the Chisos Mountains. Note that the Chisos Basin will be closed for renovations starting approximately May 2026, including the lodge, restaurant and campground. The public will not be able to access the basin area during construction. The rest of Big Bend National Park will be open. 16 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

SANTA ELENA CANYON

HOT SPRINGS HISTORIC DISTRICT

FOSSIL DISCOVERY EXHIBIT

Visible for more than 10 miles, this iconic area of Big Bend features dramatic limestone canyon walls created over time by the mighty Rio Grande.

After an adventurous day in the park, soak your tired bones here, where the water remains at 105 degrees Fahrenheit year-round.

This exhibit, which opened January 2017, explores the area’s paleontological and geological past, complete with replicas of fossils found within the park.

PANTHER JUNCTION VISITOR CENTER This is a must-stop for first-time visitors and those who haven’t been in a while. Get all fees, permits, maps and more here, and take a break to check out the new 22-minute on-demand film detailing the wonders of the park. MAX ST. JOHN

CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE

BEN

Make the most of your visit to Big Bend National Park with a complimentary guided audio tour using your smartphone. Search “Just Ahead” in the App Store or on Google Play and look for the free “Big Bend” guide or download Visit Widget Big Bend app in Google Play.

JUST AHEAD

VISIT WIDGET

RAFTING THE RIO GRANDE Local outfitters provide guided trips along the Rio Grande, giving a whole new perspective to Big Bend National Park.

HIKING

CHISOS BASIN AREA

With more than 150 miles of hiking trails, Big Bend is a hiker’s paradise. Two highlights: the Lost Mine Trail, which is medium difficulty and offers breathtaking views beginning midway, and the Window View Trail, which is worth the effort to catch a glorious Big Bend sunset through the “window” in the Chisos Basin.

This mountainous area in the center of the park is the most popular portion, though some overlook it. The park’s only hotel and restaurant are in this area, which is usually cooler than the surrounding desert, even during the summer. Work is scheduled to begin on the new lodge and restaurant in 2026. Once construction begins the public will not be able to

access the basin area. Confirm timing of construction by checking the website or calling.

ROSS MAXWELL SCENIC DRIVE This paved, 30-mile scenic drive showcases some of the best views in the park. There are many stops along the way, but don’t miss Sotol Vista with its satisfying overlook and view of the desert terrain, and Mule Ears, the perfect viewing area for another iconic sight in the park. A hiking trail to the formation starts from here as well.

BALANCED ROCK ON THE GRAPEVINE HILLS TRAIL This unusual formation—a giant boulder inexplicably balanced between two gigantic rounded rocks —is a favorite spot for selfies.

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 17

ENTRANCE FEES

Vehicle: $30 for a 7-day pass good at any park entrance ($25 per motorcycle) Individual: $15 for a 7-day individual pass (bicyclists and pedestrians) Annual Pass: $55 Allows unlimited entry for one year from month of purchase.

CAMPGROUND FEES

The nightly fee for camping in one of the developed front-country campgrounds is $16 ($8 with Senior or Access pass). Individual backcountry campsites require a $10 permit ($5 with Senior or Access pass), which can be acquired at Panther Junction or Chisos Basin visitor centers in person or at recreation.gov. Special rates apply to commercial and non-commercial groups, as well as interagency officials, seniors and the permanently disabled. Inquire at the ranger station or

With over 150 miles of back-country dirt roads and 200 miles of trails, walking, hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding are all popular options for exploring the park. Some of the more popular hikes include the Window View Trail in the Chisos Basin, which is wheelchair accessible and perfect for a mountain sunset; Rio Grande Village Nature Trail, which offers some of the best birding in the region; and the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Trail at Dugout Wells, featuring native plant life identified along this halfmile path. The 118 miles of the Rio Grande that border the park wind through the Santa Elena, Boquillas and Mariscal Canyons. A river trip by raft, canoe or kayak is an unforgettable way to encounter the remote wilderness of Big Bend. Leisurely half-day floats to multiday camping trips are available. Santa Elena is the most popular outfitter trip with dramatic 1,500-foot canyon walls. Boquillas is a twonight/three-day trip on average but great for families with its Class II or less rapids at average water levels and many side hiking opportunities. There are three developed campgrounds in the park: Chisos Basin Campground, Rio Grande Village Campground and Cottonwood Campground, all with water, restrooms and some with primitive shelters. There is also an RV park at Rio Grande Village, the only location in the park with full hookups. Public showers and laundry facilities are available at the Rio Grande Village Store. Most of the campsites operate on a first-come, first-served basis and fill up quickly in March, April and during the holiday season.

BOQUILLAS, MEXICO

In the spring of 2013, the border crossing at Boquillas reopened as a result of enthusiastic advocates in both the United States and Mexican governments. The COVID-19 pandemic temporarily closed the crossing, but it is once again open. While a travel advisory is in place from the U.S. State Department for travel in Mexico, residents of the Big Bend area continue to enjoy an extremely low incidence rate, and a visible, supportive law enforcement presence.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

The Chisos Basin Lodge can be reached at (432) 477-2291 or chisosmountainslodge.com. Work is scheduled to begin on the new lodge and restaurant in May 2026. Once construction begins the public will not be able to access the basin area, however the rest of the park will remain open. Confirm timing of construction by checking the website or calling. A limited number of sites in Rio Grande Village and Chisos Basin allow advance reservations from Nov. 15 to April 15. Call (877) 444-6777 or reserve online at recreation.gov. Visit nps.gov/bibe or call (432) 477-2251 for more information. For a full list of Big Bend area activities, go to visitbigbend.com (the most complete reference source for all things greater Big Bend and Brewster County).

EVENTS

National Public Lands Day is a nationwide celebration of our country’s public lands. Held the last weekend of September each year, the event brings thousands of people to parks across the country. 18 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

MAX ST. JOHN

NATIONAL PUBLIC LANDS DAY

ONE OF AMERICA'S BEST-KEPT SECRETS

ALUPE D A U G

Mountains

N AT I O N A L PA R K

ocated north of Van Horn on the Texas-New Mexico border, the 86,416 acres of Guadalupe Mountains National Park (GMNP) represent some of the most varied and beautiful hiking trails in all of Texas. With elevations in the park ranging from 3,689 feet at the gypsum dunes to the west of the Guadalupe Mountains to the highest peak in Texas, Guadalupe Peak, at 8,750 feet, visitors are treated to a tremendous diversity of native plants and animals. With 46,850 acres of El Paso designated wilderness, and an additional 35,484 acres which are eligible for wilderness study, GMNP preserves the largest wilderness area in the state of Texas. Established on Sept. 30, 1972, GMNP is part of the Guadalupe Mountains range, which stretches from Carlsbad, New Mexico, to the salt flats and gypsum dunes just east of Dell City. Those gypsum dunes are the second largest in the U.S. and third largest in North America and the world after White Sands National Monument, New Mexico, and Cuatrocienegas Natural Protected Area (Coahuila, Mexico).

STEWART RAMSER

•

Guadalupe Peak, and the surrounding Guadalupe Mountains, is part of an ancient marine fossil reef that was under the vast Delaware inland sea approximately 260 million years ago. It is regarded as one of the world’s best examples of Middle Permian geology, attracting geologists from around the world. In addition to the Guadalupe Mountains, the 400-mile, horseshoe-shaped El Capitán Reef is now exposed in the Glass Mountains, near Alpine, as well as the GUADALUPE Apache Mountains. MTS. NP In the Pine Springs Visitor Center (5,013 Van Horn feet in elevation), Alpine educational videos and exhibits shed light on the geologic history of the park. BIG BEND NP Other exhibits showcase the abundant and diverse plant life and wildlife. Visitors may join a park ranger for an interpretive talk or walk on one the park’s trails. Discover the cultural history of the park at one of the heritage sites, such as the recently restored Frijole Ranch House, Williams Ranch, Pratt Cabin, remnants of Buffalo Soldier encampments or the

•

Pinery Butterfield Overland Stage station. Explore the natural beauty and grandeur along the hiking trails, taking in views of everything from harsh desert landscapes to lush streamside woodlands rich in oaks and maples. Perhaps the most popular attraction is the brilliant fall display of red, orange and yellow bigtooth maples in McKittrick Canyon, which peaks in late October. Fall color displays may also be seen at Smith Springs, Devil’s Hall and Dog Canyon. Families with children will find Junior Ranger, Senior Ranger, Wilderness Explorer Junior Ranger, Junior Ranger Night Explorer and Junior Paleontologist programs chock full of age-appropriate activities. The park website (www.nps.gov/gumo/) provides a schedule of park activities and updates on fall color showings to aid travelers in planning their visits.

EXPLORE THE GUADALUPES

A hiker’s paradise, GMNP boasts more than 80 miles of trails, meandering through woodland canyons and lush riparian springs, as well as those zigzagging up steep switchbacks through the park’s rugged wilderness to Guadalupe Peak, Bush Mountain, The Bowl, Bear Canyon, Pine Top, McKittrick Ridge, Shumard Canyon, Hunter Peak, Dog BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 19

FEES AND PASSES

Guadalupe Mountains National Park annual passes are $35 and cover up to four adult entrance fees. Seven-day permits are available at a rate of $10 per adult. Children under age 16 are free. Camping permits are $20 per site. Campsites for Pine Springs and Dog Canyon Campgrounds can be reserved at recreation.gov. America the Beautiful annual passes are $80 (good for entry, as well as other services and discounts, at federal public lands). Senior Passes (age 62 or older) are $20 (annual) or $80 (lifetime). Lifetime America the Beautiful Access Passes are available free of charge to U.S. citizens with a qualifying permanent disability. Free America the Beautiful Military Passes may be obtained by active-duty military personnel (and dependents), veterans and Gold Star Family members. Free annual passes are also available to 4th Graders and volunteers with federal agencies. More information available at: nps.gov/planyourvisit/passes. html

EXPERIENCE WEST TEXAS HISTORY

Discover the park’s Native American, cavalry (including the Buffalo Soldiers) and pioneer ranching history at one of the well20 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

preserved historic sites. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Frijole Ranch History Museum features the homes and outbuildings of various Anglo settlers, including the Smith family, who operated their small truck farm and orchard from 1906 to 1942. The Pinery is one of the best-preserved and highest staging outposts on the ButterfieldOverland Route, which ran from St. Louis and Memphis to San Francisco from 1858 until the outbreak of the Civil War. The Pinery station ceased operations in August 1859, when the route was shifted southward to give it better protection from raids and provide better access to water. Hikers in McKittrick Canyon may visit Pratt Cabin. Park visitors with a 4x4 vehicle and lust for adventure can visit the historic Williams Ranch, one of the earliest park homesteads with a well-documented, albeit colorful, history. Before traveling that way, stop by the Pine Springs Visitor Center to check out a gate key, and be aware that the drive, though only a little more than seven miles, takes about an hour. Guadalupe Mountains National Park has two front-country campgrounds, Pine Springs and Dog Canyon, a group campground and group picnic area at Frijole Ranch and 10 back-country campgrounds spread

throughout the park. Obtain back-country camping permits at Www.recreation.gov or the Pine Springs Visitor Center daily between 8 a.m. and 4:15 p.m. Entrance fees can be paid at any of the trail heads. Simply fill out the fee envelope and deposit at any trail head collection safe (the “iron ranger”). Display your detachable stub on your vehicle dashboard. Before you venture into the back country or before you leave to go back home, make sure to visit the GMNP bookstore in the Pine Springs Visitor Center to purchase a variety of books about the park, maps or postcards. If you would like to spend more time helping the park directly, inquire about the park’s Volunteers In Parks (VIP) program. For more information about Guadalupe Mountains National Park, visit nps.gov/gumo/ or call (915) 828-3251 ext. 2124 for updated information. ADDITIONAL INFO SOURCES:

Facebook: facebook.com/Guadalupe.Mountains/ Twitter: twitter.com/GuadalupeMtnsNP/ LEE HOY

Canyon and the distinctive El Capitán (which, at 8,085 feet above sea level, is an imposing sentinel at the west end of the Guadalupes). There are two short, easy hikes — the 0.4mile Manzanita Spring Trail or the 0.67-mile Pinery Trail — both of which are paved and wheelchair accessible. Moderate trails, such as McKittrick Canyon (4.8-6.8 miles, depending on the route), are available, as well as strenuous trails, such as the Guadalupe Peak Trail (8.4 miles) or The Bowl (9.3 miles). These trails require several hours and ample supplies, including at least one gallon of water per person per day (one quart per hour if it is hot). Trekking poles are recommended. Sixty percent of the park’s trails are available for horseback riding, though visitors must bring their own stock. Either by foot or horse, the park is a place to discover fossils and explore geologic and human history, observe native wildlife, view colorful wildflowers, capture great photos, create paintings or simply gaze into the wondrous, star-filled night sky.

LEE HOY

STATE PARKS

THE STATE PARKS and State Historic Sites of the Big Bend and Texas mountains region showcase a panorama of West Texas scenes. From gushing spring waters to lofty, milehigh peaks, from the harsh grandeur of Chihuahuan Desert landscapes to museumquality exhibits, Texas State Parks offer something for every taste. Here you will find safe, secure and wholesome environments for camping, picnicking, hiking, fishing, stargazing, hunting, rock climbing, cycling, boating, floating, birding, swimming, horseback riding, interpretive programming or peace and quiet. Stop in for a visit. You’ll be glad you did!

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 21

DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE PARK £ FORT DAVIS

BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK £ PRESIDIO The largest state park in Texas, with more than 300,000 acres of Chihuahuan Desert wilderness, the park embraces some of the most remote and rugged terrain in the Southwest. Mountain bikers, hikers and equestrians enjoy miles of trails that traverse “the other side of nowhere.”

(432) 358-4444 (512) 389-8919 (reservations) tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/bigbend-ranch

BARTON WARNOCK VISITOR CENTER TERLINGUA AND LAJITAS The center serves as the eastern entrance to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Exhibits interpret 570 million years of geologic history and the 22 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

five biological landscapes of the Chihuahuan Desert. It was named for famed botanist and 33-year Sul Ross State University professor Dr. Barton Warnock (1911–1998).

(432) 424-3327 tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/ barton-warnock

FORT LEATON STATE HISTORIC SITE PRESIDIO Fort Leaton is day-use only and offers picnicking areas, tours through newly restored and furnished rooms, plus exhibits on the region’s history: from 16th-century conquistadors to Ben Leaton’s 19th-century trading post to the present. The fort also serves as the western entrance for Big Bend Ranch State Park.

Davis Mountains State Park, 2,709 acres in size, is located in Jeff Davis County, four miles northwest of Fort Davis, approximately halfway between Guadalupe Mountains National Park and Big Bend National Park. The original portion of the park was deeded to the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department by a local family. Original improvements were made by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1933; the park has been open to the public since the late 1930s, and formal campground facilities were added in 1967. The Davis Mountains, the most extensive mountain range in Texas, were formed by volcanic activity during the Tertiary geologic period, which began about 65 million years ago. These mountains were named after Jefferson Davis, U.S. secretary of war and later president of the Confederacy, who ordered the construction of the Fort Davis army post. Few Americans had seen the Davis Mountains prior to 1846. After the war with Mexico, a wave of gold seekers, settlers and traders came through the area and needed the protection of a military post — Fort Davis. Fort Davis was active from 1854 until 1891, except for certain periods during the Civil War. In 1961, the historic fort ruins were declared a National His-

toric Site, and a vast restoration and preservation program was initiated by the National Park Service.

(432) 426-3337 tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/davismountains

FRANKLIN MOUNTAINS STATE PARK EL PASO Hike, bike or run the rugged terrain of this 37-square-mile state park that sits on the northern edge of El Paso. Rock climbing is also popular in McKelligon Canyon or Sneed’s Cory.

(915) 444-9100 tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/ franklin-mountains

TEXAS STATE PARKS PASS The Texas State Parks Pass is an annual pass that offers many special benefits to members. As a member, you and your guests enjoy unlimited visits to Texas State Parks, State Natural Areas and State Historic Sites without paying the daily entrance fees. The cost is $70 for a one-card membership. Learn more at: tpwd.texas.gov/ state-parks/park-information/passes/ VISIT: TPWD.TEXAS.GOV/STATEPARKS/ TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE OTHER AREA PARKS AND PARKS ACROSS THE STATE OF TEXAS. FROM LEFT LEE HOY, LEE HOY

Four miles east of Presidio on F.M. 170 . (432) 229-3613 tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/fortleaton

E M O C L E W TO THE

s a x Te IN A T N U O M

TRAIL

FROM EL PASO TO BIG BEND, THE TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL ENCOMPASSES SOME OF THE MOST SCENIC PARTS OF TEXAS 25 ALPINE 34 EL PASO

Franklin Mountains, El Paso

37 FORT DAVIS 40 LAJITAS 43 MARATHON 48 MARFA 52 PRESIDIO

COURTESY VISIT EL PASO

56 TERLINGUA AND STUDY BUTTE 60 VAN HORN

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 23

ALPINE THE UNIQUE GEOGRAPHIC LOCATION NESTLED BETWEEN THREE MOUNTAIN RANGES GIVES ALPINE ONE OF THE MOST AGREEABLE CLIMATES IN TEXAS: WARM, SUNNY WINTER DAYS AND COOL SUMMER NIGHTS

GUADALUPE MTS. NP

•

A.K. HOLMES/VISIT ALPINE TEXAS

he area that would one day be Alpine had been an encampment for Native Americans, and then a campsite for cattlemen until a town of tents was created, consisting of railroad workers and their families. They called their settlement Murphyville, and it remained as such for five years until a petition by townspeople rendered a name change. At the time Murphyville became Alpine, there were already a dozen houses, three saloons, a hotel, a rooming house, a livery stable, a butcher shop and a drugstore, which also housed the post office. Alpine grew very slowly until Sul Ross Normal College (now Sul Ross State University) was opened in 1920. The opening of Big Bend National Park in the 1940s further spurred the growth of the town. Now, the high desert country, mountain ranges and access to neighboring towns and attractions are only a few of the wonders that make Alpine a popular destination. Situated within the great Chihuahuan Desert between Big Bend National Park and

Van Horn

for art displays and the Davis H events. Mountains, ALPINE No matter what Alpine, with brings you here, Alpine is its tree-lined BIG BEND a great staging place for any streets and NP far West Texas adventure. university, is at There are ample lodging and the center of the dining opportunities. See cowboys Big Bend region. competing at rodeo events, watch As such, it serves as the professional baseball in a historic ballpark, and transportation and service hub for far West Texas. In addition to the general see summer theater productions under a roof of aviation airport, Alpine-Casparis Municipal stars. The Lone Star Cowboy Poetry Gathering, Airport, there is an Amtrak station and access Trappings of Texas, Artwalk, Viva Big Bend to the area via Greyhound bus lines, delivering and Big Bend Ranch Rodeo are just five of the most popular annual events. Stroll through visitors to all Alpine has to offer. The Museum of the Big Bend at Sul Ross downtown to see murals, shops and quite often is a favorite stop. For more than 70 years, some live music. But perhaps what will keep you coming the Museum has presented the rich and multifaceted story of the Big Bend region, back is the nearly idyllic climate. At 4,600 feet highlighting the contributions of many cultures and perfectly situated between the Davis, Glass over thousands of years, from prehistoric rock and Del Norte Mountains, you’ll be hardart to the movies of the modern day that have pressed to find more moderate, year-round been filmed in the area. In 2023, a striking temperatures in all of Texas. modern addition was added to the Museum, doubling its size and providing elegant spaces BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 25

🅐 HISTORIC WALKING AND WINDSHIELD TOUR Take a leisurely stroll or drive around Alpine’s downtown for a glimpse of architectural history. A copy of the walking tour guide and map is available at the Alpine Visitor Center located at 106 N. 3rd St. visitalpinetx.com

🅑 SUL ROSS STATE UNIVERSITY Established in 1920, the university’s picturesque campus overlooks Alpine and the surrounding valley. With years of history and its uniquely beautiful setting, the campus of Sul Ross is a delightful place to wander around. Many of the buildings are now designated as historic. Sul Ross is a member of the Texas State University System. With an average undergraduate class size of just 20 students, it’s the perfect setting for pursuing an associate, bachelor’s or master’s degree in liberal arts, science, fine arts or any number of professional studies programs, such as business administration or criminal law. sulross.edu

🅒 MUSEUM OF THE BIG BEND Located on the Sul Ross campus, the museum’s permanent exhibits explore the natural and human history of the region, honoring the contributions of Native Americans, as well as Spanish, Mexican and Anglo settlers. The museum hosts the nationally recognized Trappings of Texas exhibit and sale and is a five-time winner in the Texas Travel Awards for Best Small Market Museum (2021, '22, '23, '24, '25). Check the website or call (432) 837-8730 for current hours of operation. museumofthebigbend.com 26 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

ALPINE COUNTRY CLUB GOLF COURSE Next to Kokernot Park, this nine-hole course is popular with visitors and residents alike. Cart rental and concessions are available.

PERFORMING ARTS AND LIVE ENTERTAINMENT As a Texas Music Friendly Community, Alpine offers a variety of stage performances and live entertainment throughout the year. The Theatre of the Big Bend features outdoor summer productions under the stars and against the backdrop of the Davis Mountains at Kokernot Park. And around town each week, live music events from open-mic nights to touring shows keep the nights lively. sulross.edu (Theatre of the Big Bend), visitalpinetx.com/events-calendar

🅓 KOKERNOT FIELD For baseball enthusiasts, Kokernot Field will take your breath away. Styled after the famous Wrigley Field, this baseball diamond was built in the 1940s for the semi-pro Alpine Cowboys. The Cowboys were reborn in 2009 as a professional team, and the landmark stadium hosts their summer season each year.

ALPINE’S MURALS Alpine boasts a growing collection of colorful murals celebrating regional themes. In addition to “Big Brewster” by Stylle Read (a long-time landmark next to Vise Coffee) and many other murals decorating the walls of downtown businesses, Alpine’s Artwalk recently unveiled another Stylle Read mural honoring Texas musicians at the PrintCo building. Alpine’s

murals won the 2021 and 2025 Texas Travel Awards in the category of Best Public Art Display (Small Market). visitalpinetx.com/murals

🅔 COUNTY COURTHOUSE HALL OF HISTORY Take a walk through the great hall in the Brewster County Courthouse and step back through the years. On display are photographs from early Alpine and the surrounding area.

🅕 HISTORIC MURPHY STREET Murphy Street, one block south of the railroad tracks, has gone through a revitalization. Shopping, drinks and live music can be found on Murphy Street.

HANCOCK HILL / “THE DESK” Located immediately behind Sul Ross State University is Hancock Hill (it’s the one with the big “SR” on it!). Owned by the University but open to the public, Hancock Hill is a great place to hike for panoramic views of Alpine. If you’re up for exploring, on the eastern edge there is a desk which overlooks the valley below. It may be hard to find if you don’t know where you’re going, so if you need directions, stop by the Alpine Visitor Center.

EVENTS Call or check websites for up-to-date information.

ARTWALK Alpine’s biggest festival for the arts spans two days in November to showcase a variety of art exhibitions in many local businesses, all against a backdrop of festivities and live music through the evenings. (210) 218-1144, artwalkalpine.com

COREY WILLIAMSON/VISIT ALPINE TEXAS

ATTRACTIONS

ALPINE COWBOYS BASEBALL With roots going back to the 1940s, the Alpine Cowboys are the community’s professional baseball team in the Pecos League. Home games held at Kokernot Field from late May through July are a refreshing event, especially set against the backdrop of Alpine’s surrounding mountains. For more information go to alpine.pecosleague.com.

BIG BEND RANCH RODEO The rugged, gritty workings of ranch life take center stage at this rodeo in August. Ranchers from all over the state come to test their mettle in events evoking real cowboy skills. (432) 294-1640, bigbendranchrodeo.com

BIG BEND BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL Hosted by the Big Bend Bluegrass Association, the festival brings together music fans and musicians to celebrate and enjoy bluegrass, old-time and traditional gospel music.

Viva Big Bend

TRAPPINGS OF TEXAS

VIVA BIG BEND

The Lone Star Cowboy Poetry Gathering is a two-day event in February celebrating the oral tradition of the working cowboy in poetry, stories and music. Enjoy more than 50 performers in the classrooms and on the stages of Sul Ross State University’s campus. The event continues a tradition of cowboy poetry gatherings in Alpine going back almost 40 years.

Trappings of Texas showcases the best of Western art and custom cowboy gear. Held in the fall at the Museum of the Big Bend on the campus of Sul Ross State University, visitors and interested buyers can meet and visit with the artists and gear makers who have works for sale at the Museum and at the public auction fundraiser. museumofthebigbend.com

Viva Big Bend is an annual music festival held in far West Texas. Taking place the last weekend of July in Alpine, Fort Davis, Marfa, Terlingua, Presidio and Marathon, VBB showcases more than 60 shows in 20 venues. Festival wristbands are good for all nighttime shows, and many of the shows during the day are free and open to the public. Additional information can be found at vivabigbend.com.

KATI STIMPSON/VISIT ALPINE TEXAS

LONE STAR COWBOY POETRY GATHERING

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 27

➌ SIERRA LA RANA 2 miles south of Alpine off Hwy. 118 (866) 757-2382 sierralarana.com

Gated Ranch Community. Own your own land! Now offering large tracts from 10 to 150 acres in a recognized international dark sky community.

FOOD AND DRINK

➍ AMIGO SPORTS BAR & RESTAURANT 101 W Ave E (432) 837-4012 Amigofood.Online

Amigo is a neighborhood bar and restaurant featuring classic and new West Texas fare. This family

SHOPPING AND SERVICES

➊ BIG BEND REGIONAL MEDICAL CENTER 2600 N. Highway 118 (432) 837-3447 bigbendhealthcare.com

Big Bend Regional Medical Center (BBRMC) is a 25bed, joint-commission-accredited, acute-care facility. Big Bend Regional has a Level 4 Trauma designated emergency department and offers 24-hour emergency care, ICU, medical/surgical rooms, OB care, imaging, pharmacy, laboratory and surgical services.

BBT 808 N. 5th St. (800) 592-4781 bigbend.com

BBT (formerly Big Bend Telecom) offers internet and voice services. The service area includes Alpine, Big Bend National Park, Fort Davis, Fort Stockton, Lajitas, Marathon, Marfa, Presidio, Sanderson, Terlingua and more.

➋ THE STABLE PERFORMANCE CARS 511 W. Holland Ave. (432) 837-9789 thestablealpine.com

At the Stable Performance Cars, the performanceand classic-car enthusiast has a comfortable place to visit and talk cars in a relaxed atmosphere.

REAL ESTATE

MTN. VIEW PROPERTIES

Mtn. View Properties specializes in the marketing and sale of homes in West Texas, as well as commercial and ranch properties. They serve Brewster, Presidio, Jeff Davis, and Culberson Counties. As your agent and premier real estate company of choice, they will assist you from beginning to end.

28 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

MICHELLE BEMING/VISIT ALPINE TEXAS

2100 W. Hwy 90 (432) 837-5518 mtnviewproperties.com

➊ 🅓

VE EA

VE XA RY

ND HE

S AN W

C BU R

CK D NCO

D ST N BIR

N HA

ER S ALK NW T

ON ST

KEY ST

➌

TH S

S 11

S 13

T TH S

TH S

S 15

S 14

VE I WA

VE J WA

VE I WA

thehollandhoteltexas.com

REATA RESTAURANT

The world-famous Reata Restaurant has been serving legendary Texas cuisine since 1995 in Alpine. From chicken fried steak to calf fries, pepper crusted tenderloin or a cowboy rib eye, Reata is a true West Texas dining experience not to be missed.

Located in the heart of downtown, Alpine City Place offers 17 designer styled rooms upstairs above Amigo (on-site restaurant, bar, and live music venue!). This boutique hotel delivers choices and convenience for locals, business and leisure travelers alike. Alpine City Place features multiple spaces to work or relax in, free Wi-Fi throughout and a great atmosphere for locals and visitors to Alpine and the surrounding Big Bend towns.

SPICEWOOD RESTAURANT

➎ HAMPTON INN

2612 W. US-90 (432) 837-4227 qc7hotel.com

2607 W. Hwy. 90 (432) 837-7344 alpine.hamptoninn.com

One of Alpine’s most popular restaurants for breakfast and lunch, the offerings at Spicewood are extensive and consistently high quality. Opened in 2019 on the western edge of town, the owners (who also own the Hotel Parker) have upgraded the building.

Indoor pool/spa, fitness room.

Recently renovated historic downtown hotel. Trost & Trost architecture.

➍ ALPINE CITY PLACE 103 W Ave E (432) 294-6043 AlpineCityPlace.com

➑ THE MAVERICK INN 1200 E. Holland Ave. (432) 837-0628 themaverickinn.com

A roadhouse for wanderers: classic motor court, completely updated for the modern traveler.

COTTONWOOD CREEK CABINS (432) 294-6043 cottonwoodcreekcabins.com

Idyllic private 30-acre nature retreat with six secluded cabins and one glamping tipi. Experience Bortle 1/2 International Dark Sky just 10 minutes south of Alpine. Elevation 5180 feet..

TRANSPORTATION

TRANS-PECOS JEEPS

➏ HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS & SUITES

432-294-6043 Trans-PecosJeeps.com

2004 E. Hwy. 90 (432) 837-9597 holidayinnexpress.com

Trans-Pecos Jeeps is a car rental company based in Alpine and offers a fleet of late model ’21–’22 Jeep Gladiators in Mojave and Rubicon trims. All car rentals include 250 miles per day and they can deliver Jeeps to the Alpine Amtrak Station, Alpine Airport, Fort Davis, Marfa (including the Marfa Airport), Mara-

Indoor pool, fitness room.17 ES

➐ HOLLAND HOTEL

COMMERCE ST

M PR O M IS E

BLACK

FOOT

thon, Study Butte and Terlingua.

PL ESPY

209 W. Holland Ave. RD (800) 535-8040JPE| (432) 837-2800

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 29

SON ST

E AVE

ST STAIN

S LAC

S HARM

ISON

S HARR

S BIRD

KRELL

118

S CHA

H E AVE S COC

KLY S

D ST S 2N

AVE

VE EGO A

E GALL

ELPS

S BER

S PH

T ST

D ST GO

IN ST S RAG

E AVE

Jackson Field

FERGU

AVE

➏

67 90

VE H WA

LODGING

118

EF E AV

S 1S

S 3R

Baines Park

LLA

LLE

E GA

friendly restaurant is the best place to watch live sports and grab some awesome food in downtown Alpine. It’s located downstairs in Alpine City Place (downtown hotel at 101-103 West Avenue E, in the heart of downtown Alpine).

203 N. 5th Street (432) 837-9232 reata.net

T ST

H ST

AVE

E HO

AV RPHY E MU

S 5T

H ST

S 8T

H ST

S 9T

T TH S

S 10

TH S S 12

LE GAL

H ST S 7T

H ST S 6T

Y AV RPH

🅑 ➑

VE SS A

UE E

S 4T

AVE

N 1S

D ST

N 3R

H ST

VE RT A

RO SUL

tion k Sta E mtra

🅒

Sul Ross State University

A CKH

N 2N

N 5T

H ST

UE E

VEN WA

NU AVE E LO

EN E AV

H ST

N 7T

1 mile

VE H WA

AVE

LL S

EGO

ALL WG

RRE

S DU

T ST

LBER

S HA

VE F WA

T TH S S 16 N ST WSO S DA

H ST N 4T

118

N 6T

H ST

S AV ROS SUL

VE F WA

EA EB

N 8T

T TH S

H ST

N 10

N 9T

TH S

TH S N 11

N 12 TH S

N 13

AV PHY MUR

ELL CKR N CO

VE KA

4TH

7TH

G TIN HT

HS 1T

T R

T RY S

RAN

AV OSS UL R WS

D LAN

223

ENU

E AV

🅔➍ 🅐 ➋ ➐ 🅕

NS S

TIO E NA

VE NA OW BR

67 90

E AV

UE A

LD VE NA OW BR

S AV ROS SUL

FIG

S TH

WN RO EB

VEN WA

O HO SC W

S RD

N3 TH

N4 N5

E AV

UE B VEN WA

E LD VA

VE E WA

SS PA

E AV NO

E AV

E GL EA

E AV

HER

118

E AV

DD MI

AL UV

S TH

N SA W

E WD

GL EA

S TH

HS 0T

AS EP

➎

7T T

S RY

VE SA

S CH EA NP

T DS

IL UA

D NR RU

Shipman Park

IR EC RE

HT AC PE

VIS DA

S TH

VD BL

H 2T N1

E PIN

TO WS

N TO CK

E AV

VIS DA

E AV RFA MA

E AV FA AR WM

223

DIA

Kokernot Park

118

E AV ON

OL D

MAR

ALPINE: I

f you find yourself in Alpine, Texas, after dark, drive past the edge of town where the city streets turn to ranch roads and the air cools quickly after sunset. Step out, look up, and there it is: a sky so dense with stars it feels alive. The Milky Way stretches clear from one horizon to the other, bright enough to cast a faint silver light across the desert. For most Americans, the night has long since dimmed — drowned out by city glow and suburban streetlamps. But here, in this pocket of the Chihuahuan Desert, true darkness still reigns. Alpine sits at 4,462 feet above sea level in Brewster County, and its elevation, isolation and high desert air combine to create some of the clearest skies in North America. It’s the largest town in the Big Bend region — just over 6,000 residents — and serves as the cultural and geographic heart of the Greater Big Bend International Dark Sky Reserve. Certified in 2022 by DarkSky International, the reserve is the largest of its kind on Earth, encompassing more than 15,000 square miles of protected nightscape that spans both West Texas and northern Mexico. That scale alone is staggering, but so is the collaboration that made it happen. The reserve links Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park in Texas with Mexico’s Maderas del Carmen and Cañon de Santa Elena reserves — an ambitious bi-national partnership built on a shared goal: to keep the night sky as dark and pure as possible. “We’re protecting an entire sky-shed,” explained Stephen Hummel, the Dark Skies Initiative coordinator at the McDonald Observatory, to KUT Austin. “You can stand in the middle and everywhere as far as you can see along the horizon is still part of the dark-sky reserve.” 30 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

For Alpine, the reserve has become more than a scientific triumph — it’s a cultural identity and a tourism engine. The community’s focus on darkness is as deliberate as any economic development strategy. In 2021, the city adopted an outdoor lighting ordinance that restricts light color temperature, limits glare and requires fixtures to direct illumination downward. Light pollution is increasing dramatically nationwide, with a 10% annual increase in nighttime light levels blotting out all but the very brightest stars. Meanwhile, in the Greater Big Bend International Dark Sky Reserve, the nights have become an astonishing 20% darker since 2021. By day, Alpine feels like a crossroads between history and open possibility. The county courthouse is near the center of town, along with many murals, coffee shops and art galleries. The Museum of the Big Bend, which recently expanded with a state-of-the-art facility on the Sul Ross State University campus, is just up the road. College students mingle with lifelong ranchers and artists who’ve come here for the same reasons anyone falls for the desert: the light, the silence and the space to breathe. But as the sun sinks behind Twin Peaks, conversation turns to the stars. In the area surrounding town, perhaps on the slopes of Hancock Hill or the nearby Marfa Lights viewing station, the night deepens into something profound. Your eyes need a few minutes to adjust. Then the constellations sharpen — Orion, Cassiopeia, Scorpius — and thousands of fainter stars spill into view. A streak of light traces across the horizon as a satellite passes overhead. The draw of a dark sky has become part of Alpine’s brand. Local businesses now market themselves as “stargazer-friendly.” Hotels and short-term rentals advertise rooftop viewing-

KIRK BRANDAU/VISIT ALPINE TEXAS

GATEWAY TO THE STARS

FROM LEFT: STEPHEN HUMMEL/VISIT ALPINE TEXAS, COURTESY TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL

decks and telescope access. Sul Ross State University hosts astrophotography workshops and night-sky lectures. The city distributes light-compliant fixture guides. What began as a conservation push has grown into a sustainable tourism model. In 2025, Alpine earned six Texas Travel Awards — including the top honor for “Best Outdoor Activity (Small/Mid Market)” for its stargazing experiences. The award recognizes the town’s leadership in developing dark-sky tourism while preserving authenticity. Also, Alpine’s visitor center in downtown has been certified as Dark Sky Friendly by the McDonald Observatory. The dark-sky designation also underscores Alpine’s connection to the McDonald Observatory, located forty miles north in the Davis Mountains. Since its founding in 1939, the observatory has relied on West Texas’s low humidity, high elevation and dark skies to conduct astronomical research. Today it operates one of the world’s largest optical telescopes — the Hobby-Eberly — and studies distant galaxies, exoplanets and dark energy. The observatory’s outreach programs, such as its famed Star Parties, draw thousands of visitors each year. Light pollution affects ecosystems across the desert. Migratory birds, bats and pollinators depend on natural light cycles to navigate and feed. “If we lose the night sky completely, it’s like losing a natural-history museum’s worth of information,” Hummel told KUT Austin. That belief has driven him and other advocates to work with ranchers, oil-and-gas operations and nearby municipalities to retrofit lighting and limit skyglow. The goal is to use light wisely rather than to turn lights off. In Alpine, lighting reforms have cut energy use, reduced glare and restored something immeasurable. Walk downtown at night now and the streets glow softly with amber light. Locals notice something they haven’t seen in years: the glow of the Milky Way faintly visible even from Main Street, or the sweep of a shooting star while walking the dog. For visitors, the experience can be transformative. During the region’s annual Dark Skies Festival in spring, hundreds gather for telescope viewings, lec-

tures and photography contests. The event blends the intellectual and the sensory, drawing scientists and artists alike. Many attendees end up staying an extra day or two, exploring the Museum of the Big Bend or taking a day trip to Marfa, Marathon or Big Bend National Park. The dark sky becomes a connector — linking towns, cultures and economies across the Big Bend. That cross-border connection is vital to the reserve’s identity. The “international” in its name isn’t symbolic; it represents genuine cooperation between U.S. and Mexican conservation agencies, local governments, and landowners. Together they’ve created the first such transnational dark-sky reserve in the world. “The night sky doesn’t stop at the border,” said a DarkSky International spokesperson when the certification was announced. “Neither does our responsibility to protect it.” Protection, in this case, doesn’t mean isolation. It means balance. Alpine is growing — new residents arrive for Sul Ross, for remote work, for the desert’s quiet beauty. But that growth is tempered by a shared understanding that what makes the place desirable also makes it fragile. The best place to experience it might be atop Hancock Hill, a moderate climb behind the Sul Ross campus. At the summit stands a rusted metal desk — a unique attraction started by students decades ago. It’s a curiosity that’s become a symbol of Alpine itself. From that perch, the view is all horizon. The town glows faintly below, lights carefully muted by ordinance, and above, the Milky Way stretches overhead in a slow, celestial arc. As dawn breaks, the colors shift — violet to rose to gold. The first rays of sun slip over the mountains and the desert floor stirs awake. In town, coffee shops open, trucks rumble down Holland Avenue and the routines of smalltown life resume. But for those who stood beneath the night sky just hours earlier, something lingers. A reminder that not every resource needs to be extracted. Some, like darkness, simply need to be preserved.

And in Alpine, Texas, they’ve figured out how to make that preservation shine.

SPARK! PLACES OF INNOVATION COMES TO ALPINE In Summer 2026, the Museum of the Big Bend in Alpine will host SPARK! Places of Innovation, a Smithsonian Museum on Main Street traveling exhibition that highlights how creativity takes root in small communities and changes the world in big ways. The exhibition traces stories from rural towns across America — places where everyday people fueled ideas, solved local challenges, and sparked new ways of living, learning, and working. For generations, far West Texans have pioneered ranching practices adapted to high desert landscapes, built rail and trade routes through rugged mountains, protected dark skies for research and wonder, and nurtured a creative culture that draws artists, scientists, and explorers alike. From the telescopes at McDonald Observatory and Sul Ross State University’s outdoor science programs, to the thriving arts community, far West Texas continues to be a place where curiosity and imagination are part of daily life. As host site, Alpine in collaboration with the Texas Mountain Trail Region will pair the Smithsonian exhibition with local and regional programming, workshops, and community storytelling events, inviting residents and visitors to share the innovations—past and present—that make this region unique. SPARK! offers an opportunity not only to look back at what has been created here, but to inspire the next generation of thinkers, makers, and problem-solvers across the Texas Mountain Trail region.

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 31

EL PASO WITH THE LARGEST URBAN STATE PARK IN THE U.S. RIGHT IN THE HEART OF THE CITY, YOU DON’T HAVE TO GO FAR TO START YOUR EXPERIENCE

HEL PASO

GUADALUPE MTS. NP

•Van Horn •

Alpine

BIG BEND NP

34 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

RIO BOSQUE WETLANDS PARK

HUECO TANKS STATE PARK & HISTORIC SITE 

FRANKLIN MOUNTAINS STATE PARK 

World renowned for rock climbing, Hueco Tanks is also known for its many Native American rock paintings and unique geology. Embark on a hike upon one of several trails or enjoy a selfguided tour and views of ancient pictographs. You may also hike, camp and picnic on the grounds. Call 915-857-1135 before visiting.

Hike, bike and explore the 26,000 acres of rugged terrain within El Paso’s city limits. With endless trails, activities and sights to experience, the impressive state park offers something for outdoor adventure seekers of all levels.

Annual Event: Hueco Tanks Community Fair (October)

Annual Events: Franklin Mountains Trail Run (January) Puzzler Mountain Bike Race (January) Poppies Festival (March)

Spanning over 370 acres, this scenic park is a flourishing riparian habitat, with trails winding through wetlands, woodlands and grasslands that bring the native landscape of the Rio Grande Valley to life.

GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK Explore the highest peak in Texas, natural beauty and winding trails a mere two hours away from El Paso. The Guadalupe Mountains make a worthwhile visit with captivating canyons and vistas stretching the park’s 86,000 acres.

RIO BOSQUE WETLANDS PARK Spanning over 370 acres, this scenic park is a flourishing riparian habitat, with trails winding through wetlands, woodlands and grasslands that bring the native landscape of the Rio Grande Valley to life.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY VISIT EL PASO TKTKTK

l Paso’s gorgeous mountain landscape makes the perfect playground for adventure. Navigate your way through miles of trails and terrain and admire the endless bounds of natural beauty. With more than 300 days of sunshine, the Sun City serves as a year-round site for outdoor adventure. Whether your plans involve an easy or challenging hike, bird watching, picnicking or rock climbing, El Paso has it all. El Paso’s native friendliness, warm sunshine and untamed mountains will make your trip here the absolute opposite of a themed, fabricated experience.

FORT DAVIS TAKE A STEP BACK IN TIME, AND TRAVEL TO A PLACE RICH IN HISTORY — A PLACE WHERE THE OLD WEST MEETS MODERN AMENITIES, AND THERE’S NOT A SINGLE STOPLIGHT

HIGH IN THE DAVIS MOUNTAINS and surrounded by can soldiers who became known as Buffalo unspoiled vistas of the Chihuahuan Desert, Soldiers. Fort Davis soon became a major the charming little town of Fort Davis feels military installation, and the town grew far removed from the rest of the world. The right alongside it, boasting a dairy, lumbertown stretches just one mile with most of the yard, bakery, furniture store, several hotels, family-owned businesses centered around the a mercantile and saloons. Even after the fort closed, the community county courthouse and along the main street (Highway 118). It has the feel of a western of Fort Davis grew as a ranching center, and by frontier town offering a retreat to a simpler the early 1900s attracted wealthy vacationers past and a chance to soak in the natural from the Gulf Coast seeking the mild climate surrounding beauty, abundant wildlife and of the high desert during the summer. The intriguing history of the area drew more tourists rich history of the area. Fort Davis takes its name from the with the designation of the fort as a National military post established there in 1854 Historic Site in 1961. Many of its buildings have been restored, making it one of the along the San Antonio-El Paso best surviving examples of a frontier Road. The fort was manned by military post in the Southwest. companies of the 8th U.S. GUADALUPE Stargazers, birdwatchers, cyInfantry to protect imMTS. NP Odessa clists and hikers have sought migrants, freighters and out the “Highest Town in mail coaches from raids Van Horn Texas” for access to the Mcby Apache and ComanH FORT DAVIS Donald Observatory and che Indians in the area. Alpine Davis Mountains State Park. Starting in 1867, the fort was home to four BIG BEND More info at fortdavis.com. companies of the 9th U.S. NP Calvary — African-Ameri-

•

LEE HOY

•

ATTRACTIONS

🅐 DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE PARK & INDIAN LODGE Located four miles north of Fort Davis, this 2,700-acre park offers camping, hiking, picnicking and nature study. Four miles of hiking trails connect to Fort Davis National Historic Site, and two scenic overlooks provide the perfect spots for star gazing. Day and overnight equestrian use is offered. Within the park, the historic, pueblo-style Indian Lodge, built in 1933 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, has a swimming pool, restaurant and gift shop. Renovations were completed in 2025 and the Lodge and Black Bear restaurant are now open and ready for booking. The park is open year-round, and full RV hookups are available. https://tpwd.texas. gov/state-parks/davis-mountains

🅑 MCDONALD OBSERVATORY A world leader in astronomical research, McDonald Observatory atop Mts. Locke and Fowlkes benefits from some of the BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 37

🅕 THE OVERLAND TRAIL MUSEUM

darkest night skies in the nation. The Frank N. Bash Visitor Center hosts Star Parties on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday evenings and is the starting point for tours and other programs. Informative exhibits can be found at the visitor center along with a gift shop stocked with unique and educational keepsakes. 277limited and reservations Program capacities are are required. Check the website for public program times and passes: mcdonaldobservatory.org.

On the historic San Antonio-El Paso Road, the museum has displays and photographs depicting early life on the western frontier and features a restored pioneer kitchen and early medical equipment. Open by appointment only. Call the Fort Davis Chamber of Commerce and visitor center, 432-426-3015.

Eagle Pass

🅖 HISTORIC JEFF DAVIS COUNTY COURTHOUSE

🅒 FORT DAVIS NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE Fort Davis was one the most important posts in frontier defense in the late 1800s with its strategic location at the crossroads of the San Antonio-El Paso Road and the Chihuahuan Trail. nps.gov/foda

🅓 CHIHUAHUAN DESERT NATURE CENTER The 507-acre Nature Center, an affiliate of the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute, features 20 acres of botanical gardens, a cactus and succulent greenhouse with over 150 species of plants, nearly five miles of hiking trails, including about one and one-half miles within the gardens, a geologic timeline with rock samples from the region, a Heritage Mining Exhibit, and the Powell Visitor Center, which includes exhibits and a gift shop. Modesta Canyon has a year-round spring, and Clayton’s Overlook has an impressive geologic display. There is a new bird blind with a 30-foot water feature, and shelter with side screens for additional viewing and photography. CDRI’s main fundraiser is a chuck wagon cookout and

Rio Grande

auction, which takes place in August. Located four miles SE of Fort Davis on Hwy. 118, the center is open 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Sat., and Sundays 12:30–5:30 p.m. (mid-March through October). cdri.org, (432) 364-2499

🅔 SCENIC LOOP DRIVE A 75-mile drive on the highest public highway in Texas starts in Fort Davis and winds past the Davis Mountain State Park, McDonald Observatory, Mount Livermore, Sawtooth Mountain and the Rock Pile. The route is also ideal for cycling with plenty of spots to rest and picnic, including a large, pineshaded area with tables in Madera Canyon.

Designed by the architectural firm of l. L. Thurman and Co. of Dallas, this building was erected in 1910–1911. 2011 marked the 100th anniversary of this concrete and stone Classical Revival edifice, featuring a massive portico, Doric columns, alternating horizontal bands of pink rusticated stone made of locally quarried materials and a Beaux Arts-style clock tower.

EVENTS Check fortdavis.com/events for up-to-date details.

DARK SKIES FESTIVAL Experience and celebrate the Big Bend region’s famous night skies, some of the nation’s most pristine. From April 13-19, locations throughout the area will host events showcasing the beauty, science and preservation of this natural wonder. Enjoy constellation tours, telescope viewings, special talks and more. Many events are free. See the full schedule at mcdonaldobservatory.org/festival.

TEXAS STAR PARTY Hosted at the Historic Prude Ranch, which is a 3,500-acre, mile-high ranch. The event includes local tours, talks and evening programs. texasstarparty.org

CYCLEFEST Hosted by the Permian Basin Bicycle Association, Cyclefest has been based in Fort Davis for some 40 years. Cyclefest is a fun ride for anyone, held the third weekend in September. pbbatx.com

THE “COOLEST” 4TH OF JULY Fort Davis provides a true slice of Americana in this annual small-town July 4 celebration dubbed the “coolest” in Texas thanks to the mountain temperatures and year-round dry climate. The community event — which draws visitors from all over — features a parade, a 5K Fun Run, pie-baking competition, pet pageant, live music, an array of vendors and a dance under the stars.

ATKINS ST

67 385

38 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

An intimate far West Texas music experience you'll never forget. After a 30-year hiatus, Moon & Tunes Festival made its grand return to Fort Davis in 2025. This long-awaited celebration of music under the stunning far West Texas night sky featured a stellar lineup, including William Beckmann and Jason Boland. Stay tuned for the lineup for the next edition, the first weekend in October. In the heart of the largest International Dark Sky Reserve in the world,

LEE HOY

MOON AND TUNES FESTIVAL 10

17 ES

118

Fort Davis National Historic Site

ST CO M PR O M IS E

DAKOTA ST

COMMERCE ST

MESCALERO ST

118

BLACKF OOT ST

🅐🅑🅔

ESPY

JPE RD

COMPROMIS

E ST

🅒

118

COACHWH IP

🅕 ➋➌ 1S

ALAMO AVE

🅖

🅓➊

118

O DR

LEZ DR

SAN JUAN

URQUHART

SGT GONZA

DESERT WILLOW

MADRONE ST

AVE

BENTLEY DR

COURT AVE WOODWARD

CEMETERY

GRANAD

PAISANO DR

KE LN

GRANT DR

RATTLESNA

MILITARY DR

FO RT 5T

FRONT ST

BUCKEYE ST

AGAVE ST

BLOYS AVE

CAVALRY LN

SHOPPING

this event offers an intimate live music experience where every seat feels close to the stage and every 1 mile note is framed by breathtaking celestial views.

HEBERT’S HEIRLOOMS & RESALE 1250 N. State St. (432) 426-3141 hebertsheirlooms@yahoo.com

FRONTIER CHRISTMAS WEEKEND Held on the Saturday of Thanksgiving weekend, festivities include a Christmas parade, a cookie baking contest, photos with Santa, hay rides around historic Fort Davis and kids΄ holiday crafts.

FOOD AND DRINK

BLUE MOUNTAIN BAR & GRILL LODGING

101 Memorial Square , next to Hotel Limpia (432) 426-3244

HOTEL LIMPIA STONE VILLAGE MARKET AND DELI

101 Memorial Square (432) 426-3237 hotellimpia.com

509 State St. (432) 426-3941 stonevillagetouristcamp.com Stone Village Market and Deli is any visitor’s “go to” for fresher, healthier choices in sandwiches, prepackaged salads, soups, breads and baked goods. Located three blocks north of the courthouse. Dine in, sit out on the porch or picnic to go.

➊ MOUNTAIN VIEW LODGE 501 S. Highway 118 (432) 426-3481 mountainviewlodgetx.com Spend quality time with family and friends in our cozy cabins, and gather in the outdoor pavilion featuring gas grills, propane fire pit and games. Mountain View Lodge lies just off the scenic loop on the edge of town and boasts dark night skies LANDFILL for stargazing, sweeping views ofMARATHON the high desert mountains and abundant wildlife.

Marathon

UE K

UE J

AVEN

UE F

UE G

UE H

AVEN

385

90 90

(855) 546-7424 limpiarealty.com

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 39 UE E

UE F

VENU EC

UE B

AVEN

UE A

S 3RD S 4TH

385

D ST

LIMPIA REALTY

ENUE

S LEE ST

S 1ST

AVEN

UE D

UE E

600 N. State St. (432) 426-2024N 8T H ST kinglandwater.com N 7TH ST Offering unparalleled service for buyers and sellN 6TH ST ers of ranches, unique homes and conservation N 5TH ST properties throughout the Lone Star State. Their N 4TH ST experienceN 3Ris as vast as the landscape.

N 2ND

S 2ND

W 5TH ST

AVEN

N 6TH

N ALBERT ST

509 State St. 90 (432) 426-3941 stonevillagetouristcamp.com90

➌ KING LAND & WATER LLC

AVEN

➋ STONE VILLAGE TOURIST CAMP

REAL ESTATE

AIRPORT RD

LAJITAS

A COMMUNITY ALONG THE RIO GRANDE RIVER NAMED FOR THE SMALL FLAT ROCKS THAT BLANKET THE AREA, BORN OF ANCIENT VOLCANOES AND INLAND SEAS

GUADALUPE MTS. NP

•

Van Horn

•

Alpine LAJITAS

H 40 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

BIG BEND NP

•

Odessa

COURTESY LAJITAS GOLF RESORT

ucked between Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park, Lajitas boasts a colorful history with a cast of infamous characters, beginning with giant marine reptiles and dinosaurs that roamed these parts over 65 million years ago according to fossils discovered in the vicinity. For centuries, Native Americans traveled through these parts along the Comanche Trail. Spanish explorer Antonio de Espejo used this historic river crossing, also known as Paso Lajitas or San Carlos Ford, around 1582. By the mid-1800s, Anglo-Americans had made their way to this remote location, eventually discovering quicksilver in the 1890s. The area’s booming mines led to the Lajitas Trading Post, which served workers and handled goods and material coming from Mexico. The early 20th century brought a public school, church and U.S. post office to the small community of Lajitas. In 1916, the arrival of Mexican Revolutionary general Pancho Villa — a name that was either worshipped or feared on both sides of the Rio Grande — resulted in the establishment of a military outpost to protect the strategic mining industry. General John J. “Black Jack” Pershing made an inspection of the area along with his aide Lieutenant George Patton during that time. For decades afterward, the Lajitas property changed owners several times before ending up in the hands of Walter Mischer in 1977. The Houston entrepreneur restored and developed the community, and by the mid-1980s, the western-themed resort was born, complete with a nine-hole golf course, several lodging options and an airstrip. During this time, the quaint community also included an unexpected attraction: Clay Henry III, a beer-drinking goat who even served a term as mayor of the West Texas town. Today, the remote vacation destination is even grander, with an onsite spa and an 18-hole championship golf course that continues to be a top pick by golf and travel publications. Whether you’re drawn to the history, scenery or activities, there are cowboy stories along with miners’ tales of drink and peril in every crevice of the red rock buttes that encircle the area.

LODGING

LAJITAS GOLF RESORT (432) 424-5000 lajitasgolfresort.com Under new ownership since 2007, this 27,000-acre destination getaway features all the creature comforts and exciting adventures a visitor could want. From the Badlands Hotel to the Cavalry Post to the Boardwalk Condos, the resort boasts 117 wellappointed rooms decorated to match the remote property’s upscale Old West style. Lajitas is on the grow and now offers real estate opportunities that include the new luxury Lakeside Cottages, Boardwalk Condos or buildto-suit lots. Whether an investor looking for a return on investment via the Lajitas Golf Resort rental pool or those looking to make Lajitas their next home, with over 27,000 acres, there are a variety of options. Email realestate@lajitasgolfresort.com for more information.

Golfweek also ranks BJC the number one golf course you can play among all public access courses in Texas. The course winds through the mountains, canyon and desert, capturing the beauty and drama of the Big Bend region while offering challenging golf for all skill levels.

EQUESTRIAN TRAIL RIDES Guided horseback rides work their way through hilly and desert terrain, offering sweeping views of the Big Bend wilderness. Riders can enjoy sunrise or sunset excursions, as well as one-hour, two-hour and half-day trail outings.

LAJITAS BOARDWALK The Lajitas Boardwalk offers shopping at the Emporium where you will find a wide variety of gifts and souvenirs with influence from the region, the Flat Rock Theatre providing a cool afternoon escape and the Boardwalk Bakery & Pizzeria, which has a variety of offerings from ice cream, freshbaked pastries, grab-and-go items to fresh-baked pizzas.

MAVERICK RANCH RV PARK (432) 424-5182 With over 100 sites including 60 pullthroughs, full hookups and amenities including shower facilities, swimming pool, laundry, TV room, dog park and more, Maverick Ranch is the ideal destination for the Big Bend region adventure seekers. Guests of the Maverick Ranch RV Park enjoy all of Lajitas Golf Resort amenities and activities, including Agave Spa, Black Jack’s Crossing golf course, trail rides, shooting activities and more.

SHOOTING ACTIVITIES The remote southwest Texas desert provides a gorgeous backdrop for a variety of shooting activities available in Lajitas. Aim at sporting clays using a 12- or 20-gauge shotgun, or participate in a cowboy action shoot equipped with a shotgun, singleaction pistol or lever-action rifle. A combat course designed by a military veteran simulates a run through an interactive environment.

AGAVE SPA There’s no better place to relax and unwind in the high Chihuahuan Desert than this luxurious spa on the Lajitas Golf Resort property. Sit back and enjoy a massage, facial or body treatment using herbal ingredients and stones native to the region.

BLACK JACK’S CROSSING GOLF COURSE This 18-hole championship golf course designed by Ryder Cup Captain Lanny Wadkins has been voted the “Best Course You Can Play in Texas” by the Dallas Morning News for the past 10 straight years, and 42 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

First-time ranchettes with social memberships now available. Announcing the Ranches at Well Creek, a 739-acre development tract with 69 phenomenal tracts ranging in size from 5-38 acres. Build to suit lots also available in other developments that have options for golf memberships and more. Inquire with the land office by email to realestate@ lajitasgolfresort.com.

PHOTOS COURTESY LAJITAS GOLF RESORT

LAND SALES ATTRACTIONS

MARATHON HOME OF THE STARS

•

GUADALUPE MTS. NP

•

Odessa

Van Horn

•

MARATHON

Alpine

BIG BEND NP

COURTESY DESERT GHOST DISTILLING

ust 40 miles north of t he entrance to Big Bend National Park sits Marathon — a quaint community that boasts a delightful climate, beautiful surroundings and friendly people. Situated in what is known as the Magnificent Marathon Basin and centrally located to many of the area’s unique attractions, Marathon hosts a range of folks — from astronomers gazing at the night sky to biking or birding enthusiasts to Big Bend hikers and explorers. One feature visitors can’t help but notice is the expansive starry sky over Marathon, which attracts astronomers and stargazers. Thanks to its remote geographic location, elevation and small size, the town has earned the rare distinction as an established, functional community

under a “Class 1 Dark Sky.” (That’s as dark as it gets!) Though increasing light pollution prevents surrounding communities from holding the same distinction, Marathon residents and businesses intentionally protect the breathtaking view and their dark sky status from the intrusion of exterior lights. Marathon’s historic main street village sits a half-mile west of the Highway 385 turnoff to Big Bend National Park. Anchored by the legendary Gage Hotel, the city center includes shops, restaurants, galleries, groceries and accommodations to suit every taste and need. Railroad and ranching — two industries that founded the town — are still an important part of the local economy. Starting at the center of town, Post Road runs south for five

miles to Post Park — the site of a former cavalry post known as Camp Peña Colorado in the late 1800s. With very little traffic and fabulous views, this stretch is ideal for running, walking and biking. Wildlife such as deer, javelinas, turkey, jackrabbits, quail and even an occasional fox can be seen in the early morning or around sunset. Post Park itself boasts a beautiful, secluded pond and county park on the Peña Colorado Creek shaded by cottonwood trees and surrounded by the Caballos Novaculite Mountains. The historic spot is popular in birding circles as one of the few accessible sources of spring water in the Big Bend region. It also hosts the longest running community event in the Big Bend area: the Independence Day dance.

Stunning geologic features surround Marathon, including the bluntness of Iron Mountain to the northwest and the lightness of the northern Glass Mountains, one of the few exposed uplifted coral reefs in Texas. While in Marathon, you’ll stand on some of the oldest rocks from the Paleozoic age (250–541 million years ago). The Marathon Uplift exposes the Ouachita Mountains of Arkansas and Oklahoma that were heaved up during the formation of the ancient supercontinent of Pangaea. Roadcuts east of town along Highway 90 and south on Highway 385 expose onlookers to spectacular features such as strike-slip faults, unusual folding and fossil fragments. Should you decide to make Marathon your destination, or BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 43

For more information, visit marathontexas.com, themarathonfoundation.org and visitbigbend.com, as well as the Visit Marathon Texas Facebook page and Instagram account. instagram.com/visitmarathontexas www.facebook.com/marathontexas ATTRACTIONS

CAMP PEÑA COLORADO (POST PARK) Five miles south of town, this shady oasis known simply as “The Post” was the original town site. Its location on the Comanche Trail necessitated the establishment of a cavalry post there. Although very little remains of the army post, it nevertheless gives the spot its current name. It is a popular location for dances, picnics and fishing, and is one of the best birding sites in the region.

MARATHON TEXAS CEMETERY Located off Post Road on the south side of town, the historic Marathon Cemetery has been in use since 1902. The peaceful grounds record the lives of early Marathon residents and is still in use today.

HALLIE STILLWELL HALL OF FAME MUSEUM Located 39 miles south on Highway 385 and six miles east on FM 2627, this family museum honors the 44 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

Main Street, live music and a fireworks show.

VIVA BIG BEND The Viva Big Bend music festival takes place the last weekend of July and has brought live music to various locations in Marathon, including the Gage Hotel and Desert Ghost Distilling Company.

MARATHON SONGS memory of legendary ranch woman, teacher and author Hallie Stillwell. Call before going as their hours vary. (432) 376-2244.

Wi-Fi and programs for both adults and children are also available. Hours: Monday-Friday, 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. 106 NE 3rd Street, (432) 386-4136, www.marathonpubliclibrary.org

GAGE GARDENS Gage Hotel’s expansive landscaped garden encompasses 27 acres and includes meandering walking and running trails, ponds, a lavender field, rose garden and blooming indigenous plants that flourish year-round attracting area birds and butterflies. The garden serves as an event venue for Gage weddings and private parties, but is open to the public daily.

BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK Marathon is the northern and eastern gateway to Big Bend National Park. A 40-minute drive takes you to the park entrance, where you are greeted with breathtaking desert vistas. After another 45-minute drive inside the park, you can find yourself in the cool, high Chisos Mountains Basin with a view across the river into Mexico.

GAGE SPA & WELLNESS 301 Avenue B, (432) 244-7273 Fully renovated in summer 2021, the Gage Hotel wellness and spa center now includes an outdoor hydrotherapy spa pool, hydrothermal steam room, additional treatment rooms, expanded gym and yoga rooms all dedicated to your mind, body and fitness health. Choose from a wide range of healing spa treatments, enjoy a yoga session or work up a sweat in the fitness center followed by a cool dip in the refreshing spa pool or a warm steam in the sauna. 301 Avenue B, (432) 244-7273, www. gagehotel.com

MARATHON PUBLIC LIBRARY The Marathon Public Library provides the community with the opportunity to borrow books and DVDs in a variety of genres. Printing services,

MARATHON SKY PARK AT THE MARATHON MOTEL

A three-day singer-songwriter music festival hosted by the Gage Hotel. Multple locations in Marathon where musicians from around the world play their original songs under the dark night skies. www.marathonsongs. com

A unique concept/development to enhance the experience of visiting astronomy enthusiasts. Amenities include Wi-Fi, three concrete pads with 110 outlets and a shade cloth barrier to prevent any stray light intrusion. On most clear skied nights after dark, the park’s amateur astronomer will get out his telescopes and share his knowledge. Donations for his time go to improvements of the site and telescopes. (432) 3864241

WEST FEST AND CABRITO COOK-OFF

EVENTS

MARATHON 2 MARATHON

INDEPENDENCE DAY DANCE & CHILI COOK-OFF Held the weekend of the first Saturday in July, this event has been an influential part of Brewster County culture since its start in the early 1900s. Post Park hosts visitors from around the area for a community dance and CASI-sponsored chili cookoff benefiting the Marathon Volunteer Fire Department. Other weekend events include a barbecue lunch, fun “dog and pony show,” parade on

Held the third weekend of September, cooks vie for the top prize with cabrito (goat) specialties. You are invited to help judge not just cabrito, but other tasty West Texas treats such as steak, salsa, chicken, ribs, brisket, dessert and margaritas! Family friendly activities include washer pitching, cake walk, silent and live benefit auctions, live music and a dance. Benefitting local causes, including the Marathon Volunteer Fire Department.

The biggest event this little town puts on with 500 racers and 100 volunteers. Racers can represent 27 states and 7 countries. All of the proceeds go to the Marathon community, mainly the Marathon Health Center. A Bonton Marathon qualifier, there is also a half marathon, 10k and 5k. www.marathon2marathon.com

FIESTA DE NOCHE BUENA Taking place the first weekend of December, Noche Buena (literally “the Good Night”) is the Spanish word for

FROM TOP: STEPHANIE WINSTON, LEE HOY

when you’re ready to head down the road, you’re an easy distance from just about anywhere in the area. Alpine is a mere 30 miles, and another 26 miles will get you to either Marfa or Fort Davis. But if you’re like most, you’ll probably head south to Big Bend National Park. Good news: Marathon is closer to the park than any other town in the region at just 42 miles. Marathon also offers a wide array of short-term rentals, which can be found under lodging on the marathontexas.com website. Many of the properties can also be accessed through Airbnb, Home Away and Vrbo (Vacation Rentals By Owner). Marathon is sitting pretty as the locals’ haven and visitors’ uncovered jewel, just a hop, skip and a jump from all that welcomes visitors to far West Texas and its little corner of heaven.

Christmas Eve. The evening consists of a family feast and is celebrated in many places around the world. This community event begins at dusk. Galleries and shops open, seasonal snacks are shared, and the holiday tree is lit! You can get in the holiday spirit joining in with Christmas caroling and hay rides. Mr. and Mrs. Santa make an appearance.

MARATHON FISH FRY This fish fry fundraiser happens the second Saturday of February and goes to make Post Park more userfriendly and to other local attractions (varies each year).

DARK SKIES FESTIVAL DURING THE NEW MOON WEEKEND This festival in April will celebrate Marathon’s dark skies with a variety of astronomy-related programs and activities, music and more on the grounds of Marathon Motel and RV Park.

LODGING

8TH STREET ROCK HOUSE

ADOBE HACIENDA / ORTEGA HOUSE

(281) 734-6796 The 8th Street Rock House is a onebedroom, one-bath house with a large eat-in kitchen and sleeps four.

(432) 603-7333

THE BLAS PLAYNE (817) 938-4498 One of, if not the, oldest homes in Marathon. This historical house has been lovingly restored with close attention to retaining the character of a 100-plus-year-old adobe.

EVE’S GARDEN ORGANIC BED & BREAKFAST (432) 386-4165 Seven separate, colorful, hand-built guest rooms (each with a private bath) surround a lush garden courtyard. Includes guest courtesy room and full organic breakfast.

CASA LA VISTA (432) 386-2222 Be impressed by a rustic exterior. Inside all the comforts of home await!

CASA VIEJA (310) 560-8758 A gorgeously restored home that was originally an old farmhouse built in 1917.

CASA WILMA (432) 386-2222 Solitude, beauty, escape.

LA LOMA DEL CHIVO HOSTEL (432) 244-7144 Enjoy a stay at this quirky hostel with its rambling alternative buildings made using recycled material, cans, bottles and paper.

MARATHON MOTEL AND RV PARK (432) 386-4241 Established in 1940, the recently renovated Marathon Motel features private cabins and full RV hookups complete with water, 30/50 amp electricity, sewer and cable television.

GAGE RESORT & SPA (800) 884-GAGE Built in 1927 by famed architect Henry Trost, the recently restored Gage Hotel offers sophisticated laidback luxury at the “Gateway to the Big Bend.”

HIDDEN DAGGER ADVENTURES 512-788-1707 hiddendaggeradventures.com Hidden Dagger Adventures has lodging options and also leads trips on the privately owned Dead Horse Mountain Ranch and Big Bend region.

MY ADOBE HACIENDA/ MONROE PAYNE (830) 719-6067 Visit this historic home of Monroe Payne. Built more than 100 years ago, this adobe has been lovingly restored and provided with modern amenities making you feel at home.

RANCHO VILLA GUEST HOUSES (512) 423-2695 This adobe ranch house has mesmerizing mountain views from its numerous porches and patios.

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 45

make it worth every mile of the trip. Nestled in the heart of Marathon, it's a destination for travelers, locals and anyone who believes great food and great beer are meant to be enjoyed together.

GHOSTFIRE PIZZA 303 NW 1st St. (432) 386-8881 Open Wednesday to Saturday from 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. Five-star handmade sourdough pizza made with the freshest ingredients and woodfired to perfection.

SNUG HARBOR

FRENCH CO. GROCER

Three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a large kitchen with appliances and two covered porches with an outdoor living room plus hammocks make this spacious getaway a home away from home. See www.MarathonTexas.com for more info.

111 Hwy US-90) (432) 386-4522 frenchcogrocer.com Open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily This quaint local store stocks classic grocery staples, natural foods, beer and wine, as well as camping supplies, gifts and artisan wares. The deli offers homemade sandwiches, salads, bread, cookies and coffee. Burger night with live music on most Fridays.

SUNSET HOUSE (512) 844-0100 Unobstructed views of sunrises and sunsets from the 700-square-foot porch. The studio is well laid out for up to four guests.

TERRAZAS ADOBE (303) 969-4646

FOOD AND DRINK

DESERT GHOST DISTILLING COMPANY 303 Hwy US-90 (512) 944-3828 desertghostdistilling.com Small batch spirits, handcrafted and desert-aged in Marathon. Desert Ghost proudly serves the Bastard Bourbon (flagship brand), Texas straight bourbon whiskey, honey bourbon (made with honey harvested locally) and triple-distilled vodka. The bar offers whiskey flights, hand-crafted cocktails and amazing sunsets from the patio.

12 GAGE RESTAURANT & WHITE BUFFALO BAR In the Gage Hotel - 102 Hwy 90 West (432) 386-4205 gagehotel.com Bar open daily from 3 p.m. to 11 p.m. Bar menu: 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. 12 Gage Restaurant open daily from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. Extraordinary Texas-inspired fine dining and bar experience.

J&G GRILL Located inside the J&G Alon convenience store, 901 Hwy. 90 West (432) 386-4238 Hours: 7 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday through Friday (sometimes open on Saturdays) Grab a burger to go while getting gas on your way to Big Bend. Breakfast burritos, hamburgers, Mexican food, chicken sandwiches, fries, grilled cheese, cold drinks and beer.

COURTESY RAILROAD LIQUORS

EL CAMINO FOOD TRUCK West Hwy 90 next to Ernesto service station Open Thursday to Saturday noon to 7 p.m. and Sunday from noon to 3 p.m. El Camino food truck brings vibrant, Tex-Mex and Mexico flavors to life with a gourmet twist. Fresh, homemade cooking, the bright red truck serves a menu filled with both classic favorites and creative specialties.

BRICK VAULT BREWERY & BARBECUE 100 N. 1st Street (432) 386-7538 Open Thursday and Friday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday from noon to 9 p.m. Sunday from noon to 5 p.m. Brick Vault was founded with a simple mission: bring the very best barbecue and craft beer to West Texas — and

LOCAL BAKERY / DELI / ART GALLERY 206 N. Ave. D. (432) 299-8742 Local features local Marathon artists, bakers and cooks, indoor and outdoor gathering spaces and a grand piano you can catch locals and tourists playing on.

V6 CAFE 109 NE 1st St. (432) 308-6877 Open daily from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Hearty breakfast and a bistro-style lunch with beer, wine and full espresso menu.

ART GALLERIES

EVANS GALLERY 100 SE 1st Street, (512) 560-8269 jameshevans.com Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on most days The gallery of Big Bend photographer James H. Evans, located south of the tracks, is the oldest running gallery in the Big Bend region. James has been photographing the landscapes and people of West Texas since 1988, with his work included in museum collections throughout Texas.

SHOPPING

LEATHER BOUND BOOKS & BOOTS 105 NE 1st St. Open Wednesday to Saturday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sunday 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Located in historic downtown, Marathon's local bookstore offers curated selections of the finest in American literature. Also on tap are leather goods, including boots from some of Texas' finest makers, as well as other western odds and ends.

MARATHON COFFEE ROASTERS 109 NE 1st St. They start with hand-selected Costa Rican beans and single-roast every batch with care. The result is mountain-grown, desert-roasted and unrushed.

RAILROAD LIQUORS 103 NE 1st St 432-249-2021 Home to a wide selection of spirits, wine and beer.

V6 COLLECTION GALLERY & GIFTS 109 NE 1st St. (432) 386-5406 Open Sunday to Friday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Connected to the V6 Coffee Bar is a curated collection of artisan jewelry, pottery, textiles, home decor and a section of books dedicated to the Big Bend region and Texas history. Serious art collectors will appreciate works of original art and photography from well-known Texas artists showcasing beautiful interpretations of the Big Bend region.

TRANSPORTATION BIG BEND JEEP RENTALS 701 Avenue C, (432) 294-5796 bigbendjeeprentals.com

E. DAN KLEPPER GALLERY 105 N. Avenue D (432) 386-6789 edanklepper.com Open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. E. Dan Klepper is a fine artist, photographer and writer exhibiting his photo-based art and sculpture at Klepper Gallery. His book of fine art photography and essays titled Why the Raven Calls the Canyon can also be found at the gallery.

TRANS-PECOS JEEPS (432) 294-6043 Trans-PecosJeeps.com Trans-Pecos Jeeps is a car rental company based in Alpine and offers a fleet of late model ’21–’22 Jeep Gladiators in Mojave and Rubicon trims. All car rentals include 250 miles per day and they can deliver Jeeps to the Alpine Amtrak Station, Alpine Airport, Fort Davis, Marfa (including the Marfa Airport), Marathon, Study Butte and Terlingua.

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 47

ART, MUSIC AND CULTURE CAN ALL BE FOUND IN THIS WEST TEXAS OASIS

GUADALUPE MTS. NP

•

Van Horn MARFA

•

Odessa

•

Alpine BIG BEND NP

48 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

he enigmatic city of Marfa sits in the high desert of Texas, surrounded by distant mountains in daylight and mysterious ghost lights at night. Fittingly named after a character in a novel, Marfa has a history of attracting creative spirits. Founded as a railroad water stop in the 1880s, the city limits are still bound on all sides by working cattle ranches, many still operated by their original descendants. On any given day you can find these natives in one of the many fine restaurants, businesses or events Marfa offers, along with visitors from all over the world. On the surface, it’s a typical rural town — a main street, a courthouse, churches and unique homes. Look deeper and you will find restaurants and art collections to rival New York or Berlin, a hotel filled with movie stars’ memories and unrivaled eclectic accommodations. This close-knit and diverse community takes pride in its rich cultural past, and makes deep investments in the future by way of volunteerism and community involvement. Until the 1970s, Marfa was best known for the ghost lights and as the film location for James Dean’s final picture, Giant, also starring Rock Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor and

Dennis Hopper. The classically beautiful Hotel Paisano served as the center of activity during the making of the movie. Now, the well-appointed rooms offer modern conveniences while preserving the spirit of its past. If you are unable to stay there, a visit is a must — sit by a roaring fireplace in the lobby or enjoy the outside courtyard and fountain. In 1971, Donald Judd, the renowned minimalist artist, moved to Marfa from New York City with the intention of permanently installing art. Since Judd’s death in 1994, two foundations have been working to maintain his legacy: the Chinati Foundation and Judd Foundation. The Chinati Foundation now occupies more than 10 buildings and has on permanent exhibit work by such artists as John Chamberlain and Dan Flavin. While in Marfa, don’t forget to find your way to the viewing station east of town where you can study the mystery of the Marfa ghost lights as they dance across the foothills of the Chinati Mountains. Seen by the earliest settlers to the area, they continue to mystify travelers and passersby and are part of the continuing enigma and magic that is Marfa. It’s impossible to capture the magic of Marfa in just a few pages. For more, go to visitmarfa.com or call (432) 729-4772.

COURTESY CITY OF MARFA

MARFA

ATTRACTIONS

E LIVINGSTON

E SALOROSA

D W 3R

W 3RD

ER MM N SU U ATEA N PL N RIDGE

N CAPOTE

N MISSOURI

W 4TH

D W 3R

ILL SH

RD AN YO N TO C

EREIO

S AP

VILL

CO E WA

RING

TO LVES

S SP

S NE

Marfa’s Mystery Ghost Lights were first documented by rancher Robert Ellison in 1883. Many theories about the source of these curious lights abound, but no one has ever been able to fully explain the phenomenon. Swamp gas, phosphorescent mineral displays, ball lightning, UFOs and wandering spirits of Apache ancestors have been proposed. Whatever the cause, these playful lights above Mitchell Flat are an enduring attraction. You’ll find a roadside park and viewing center complete with restroom facilities, picnic tables and long-range viewing devices along Highway 90 just eight miles east of town.

🅑 PRESIDIO COUNTY COURTHOUSE

IO TON

E GA

E OAK

PASO

AN SAN

N HLA

S YALE

COURTESY CITY OF MARFA

ERE

N AP

VILL

E LIN

112 AD 1 H RO

LL A E DA

S HIG

W MADRID

RING

RAN

N SP

N NE

KATHENNE

ACO WW LY

BONNIE

STO

ALVE

S KEL

ACO WW

U ATEA

TON VES GAL

ALLA WD

S PL

OVE

S YALE

S HO

S ALYAFORD

S EDINBURG

S ALLA WD

🅒

ONIO ANT

S HIL

SACRAMENTO

PASO

STIN

W SA

XAS

E EL

S AU

E TE

AK WO W EL

S SU

S HARTFORD

L PA

PHILADELPHIA

N DE

STIN LLY

ER MM

ESA

N SU

N KE

AS WW

E WA

🅑 ➊

N AU

TO HING

N COL

GTO

SHIN

URP

E MU

Y RPH

N HI

SA N ME N RIDGE

O WC

B LUM

Y RPH

FREMONT

W MADRID

E CO

W 1S

W LIN

PARIS

W 1S T

W 2ND

N COL

IO ANTON

T E 1S

BIA LUM

W SAN

E 2N

D W 2N

W 2N

N NOMEZ

N DE

E SALGADO

E MENDIAS

W 5TH

🅐 MARFA MYSTERY LIGHTS

N ORDENER

E TENONO

🅐

Built in 1886, the Goddess of Justice stands atop this elegant Second Empire-style domed structure that was restored in 2001. A climb to the cupola provides a 360-degree panoramic view of the Marfa Plateau, Chinati Peak and nearby Davis Mountains. Hours are 9 a.m.–4 p.m. Monday through Friday.

🅒 MARFA AND PRESIDIO COUNTY MUSEUM Housed in an 1880s adobe known as the HumphrisHumphreys House, this museum features displays of Giant, the Chihuahuan Desert, local military and county history, and a collection of panoramic photography by Frank Duncan. Hours 1–5 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

MARFA MUNICIPAL GOLF COURSE The highest golf course in Texas, situated at 4,882 feet above sea level, this 9-hole course offers not only well-kept greens but also 360-degree views BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 49

of blue mountains and open ranchland. It is a wonderfully manicured surprise in the middle of the desert mountains. (432) 729-4043.

ART

CHINATI FOUNDATION, JUDD FOUNDATION AND BALLROOM MARFA are three nonprofit art spaces at the hub of Marfa culture. Occupying much of former Fort D.A. Russell, the Chinati Foundation is a contemporary art museum founded by the artist Donald Judd, with permanent installations by 13 artists. The Judd Foundation offers guided visits of Donald Judd’s formerly private live and work spaces. Ballroom Marfa features revolving exhibits of international acclaimed artists, along with numerous music events and performances throughout the year. Reservations are required for all three, so book before you go! www.chinati.org, www. juddfoundation.org, www.ballroommarfa.org

PRADA MARFA

EVENTS Call or check websites to find out the current status.

PINTO CANYON Some of the most scenic West Texas views imaginable await you on the FM 2810/Pinto Canyon Road out of Marfa. Great for cars, road bikes or by foot, take an adventure along sprawling ranches toward the Chinati Mountains on this low-traffic ranch road.

CHINATI WEEKEND Chinati Weekend invites the local community as well as friends and colleagues from across the country and around the world to come to Chinati for a weekend of open viewing of the permanent collection, special exhibitions, talks and music — all offered free to the public. www.chinati.org

MARFA LIGHTS FESTIVAL The Marfa Lights Festival takes place each Labor Day weekend, with many of the activities surrounding the historic Presidio County Courthouse. The festival begins on Friday when food and craft vendors open their booths. Saturday morning starts with a 5K walk/run and a parade down Highland Avenue. Live music is featured throughout the weekend.

EXCURSIONS

FORT DAVIS — MCDONALD OBSERVATORY A drive through the Davis Mountains offers a peek into the past and beyond into outer space. McDonald Observatory’s world-class instruments give a look into deep space, and offer fascinating tours of the grounds, telescopes and “star parties” that rival anything you’ve seen or done before. 50 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

RIVER ROAD Scenic doesn’t begin to describe the wonders along the route that follows the Rio Grande to Big Bend Ranch State Park and Big Bend National Park. Whether it’s a history tour of Fort Leaton outside of Presidio or the mining “ghost town” of Terlingua, River Road is picturesque at every turn. You’ll want to factor in time to make plenty of stops.

LODGING

➊ HOTEL PAISANO 207 N. Highland (432) 729-3669 hotelpaisano.com A historic hotel with 41 rooms, fantastic gift shop and a heated pool. The Paisano hosted the stars of the movie Giant and now serves as the social headquarters for Marfa. Enjoy patio dining by the fountain at Jett’s Grill with views of the exquisite Trost architecture.

THUNDERBIRD HOTEL 601 W. San Antonio St. (432) 729-7777 thunderbirdmarfa.com The Thunderbird Hotel is a quiet boutique hotel

with 26 stylish rooms. The outdoor courtyard has plenty of shade at the poolside cabana by day, and fire pits for socializing on cool nights.

EL COSMICO 802 S. Highland Ave. (432) 729-1950 elcosmico.com El Cosmico is a unique bohemian hotel and one of the most iconic places to stay in West Texas. Enjoy a stay in a spacious yurt, cozy safari tents or one of many unique trailers, each decked out with its own personality and comfort in mind.

HOTEL SAINT GEORGE 105 S. Highland Ave. (432) 729-3700 marfasaintgeorge.com Marfa’s newest and most modern hotel offers 55 rooms with fine design and attention to detail. La Venture, the Saint George’s in-house restaurant, offers a full bar and delicious meals for guests of the hotel and visitors to Marfa.

FOOD AND DRINK

WATER STOP 1300 W. San Antonio St. A small but excellent menu of fine diner food. The chicken and waffles never disappoint, and you’ll want to add a fresh juice, iced coffee or one of their specialty cocktails. Stylish indoor or relaxing patio dining available.

COURTESY CITY OF MARFA

Prada Marfa, by artists Elmgreen & Dragset, is one of the most iconic site-specific artworks in the world. Modeled after a Prada boutique, the sculpture houses luxury goods from the famed brand’s fall 2005 collection of bags and shoes in what some refer to as “the middle of nowhere.” Don’t blink and miss this landmark just west of Valentine, Texas, on Highway 90, a quick 30-minute drive from Marfa.

COCHINEAL 107 W. San Antonio St. cochinealmarfa.com A sleek and sophisticated restaurant with a rotating menu of fine dining. Indoor and outdoor seating and an incredible cocktail bar make for a perfectly intimate experience.

MARFA BURRITO 515 S. Highland St. Monday-Saturday, 6 a.m. - 2 p.m. Marfa Burrito is a staple and a must-visit for those in the know. Ramona’s burritos will stick to your ribs and power a day of art viewing and shopping.

PLANET MARFA 200 S. Abbot St. Planet Marfa is a favorite hangout for visitors and locals alike. Live music, karaoke, and guest chefs rotate through this funky and fun beer garden on a regular basis. Great conversations and stories to take home await.

SHOPPING

WRONG MARFA 110 Highland St. wrongmarfa.com Open 7 days a week, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. Wrong Marfa is owned by long-time Marfa residents and artists. Part store, part gallery, all fun, there is always something that will tickle your fancy at Wrong.

COMMUNITIE 122 Highland St. Open 7 days a week, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. Communitie is the perfect Marfa mix of minimalist aesthetic and West Texas sensibility. This is where you will find all the necessities, like wide-brimmed hats, bolo ties and a simple silk slip dress. Dogs welcome!

MARFA BOOK COMPANY 300 South Kelly St. marfabookco.com The go-to resource for west Texas literature, art and events in Marfa. Visit their website for a schedule of events and most up-to-date hours.

TRANSPORTATION TRANS-PECOS JEEPS (432) 294-6043 Trans-PecosJeeps.com Trans-Pecos Jeeps is a car rental company based in Alpine and offers a fleet of late model ’21–’22 Jeep Gladiators in Mojave and Rubicon trims. All car rentals include 250 miles per day and they can deliver Jeeps to the Alpine Amtrak Station, Alpine Airport, Fort Davis, Marfa (including the Marfa Airport), Marathon, Study Butte and Terlingua. BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 51

PRESIDIO LA JUNTA DE LOS RIOS

GUADALUPE MTS. NP

• Van Horn

•

Odessa

Alpine

•

PRESIDIO

residio sits on the borderland of Texas and Mexico, where locals often say, “the River has never divided us.” The two largest rivers in this region of the Big Bend join one another here in Presidio: the Rio Grande and Rio Conchos. It has a long and documented past as a cultural crossroads and has served as a traveler destination for centuries. Native tribes and early settlers were drawn to the rich soil of the area historically known as “La Junta de los Rios.” Water is life, and that truth is accentuated here in the unique landscape of the Chihuahuan Desert.The first Spanish explorers came to Presidio in the 16th century and continued to settle the area by establishing numerous missions and garrisons. The La Junta floodplain of the Rio Grande has given the area a long history of continuous settlement, trade, and humans finding inspiration from the Rio to carve out pathways for themselves in the desert. Presidio garners its name from the historic Mexican fortress of Presidio del Norte, whose

52 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

ruins are in present-day Ojinaga, Mexico. Each highway that leads to Presidio offers magnificent views along the Texas Mountain Trail. Heading south from the city of Marfa on US 67, sweeping views of the wide-open spaces and big skies make the route a panorama of brilliant colors at sunrise and sunset. For scenery-seekers, Presidio acts as the gateway to the western entrance of Big Bend Ranch State Park; visitors can check in to the park through Presidio’s own Fort Leaton State Historic Site, a fortified trading post established on the Chihuahuan Trail in 1848. If you’re coming from Big Bend National Park through Big Bend Ranch State Park on FM 170, you’ll be driving a route that National Geographic has named one of the top 10 most scenic drives in the United States. Famously called the “River Road,” the section between Lajitas and Presidio in Big Bend Ranch State Park parallels the Rio Grande closely for 27 miles, as both the river and the road curve, climb

BIG BEND NP

and fall through the borderland mountains of Mexico and the United States. The steepest climb on River Road will take you up and over the “Big Hill” of the Bofecillos Mountains, where the Rio Grande valley unfolds beneath the sheer volcanic cliffs across the border. Like the river, oral tradition and storytelling culture have shaped the Big Bend region over the course of generations. However, one story has no place in Presidio-Ojinaga culture: that borderlands are scary and dangerous places. Presidio has regularly ranked as one of the safest towns in Texas. If you look beneath the surface, you’ll find that the International Port of Entry is patrolled by U.S. Customs and Border Protection and acts as the gateway to some of the best shopping in the region. Grab your passport and make the drive across the border! Once you arrive in Ojinaga, Mexico, population 30,000, you’ll have your pick of authentic Mexican restaurants and shops that sell colorful local wares.

HANNAH GENTILES

If you’d like suggestions on what to do and see in Ojinaga, do not hesitate to ask a Presidio local. Search far and wide, and it is likely that you will not find a friendlier community to visit. Through thousands of years of continuous settlement, the people of Presidio have cultivated a culture of hospitality and family that is as rich and genuine as the soil of La Junta de los Rios. An example of great adobe soil architecture is the American Legion Post No.176 building, established in 1933, which has been remodeled and is now open. The legion is a nonprofit organization whose members volunteered to restore the face of Santa Teresa de Jesus church, built in 1912, and is home to a parish that is known as the home of the first Christmas celebration in Texas, in 1683. Visit the restaurants and stores in Presidio and you will find that no one remains a stranger here very long. The people who live here, sharing ideas, history and community, are happy to help you discover the borderlands culture that is so unique to Presidio.

ART AND CULTURE

Presidio hosts a rich art and cultural scene, noticeable from the moment you enter town. ATTRACTIONS

🅐 ST. FRANCIS PLAZA The plaza is an oasis of shade, fountains and greenery in downtown Presidio. The Farmers Market is held every Saturday morning.

🅑 SANTA TERESA DE JESUS CHURCH Est. 1683 on O’Reilly Street, the church was rededicated in October 1983 in its tricentennial year.

🅒 FORT LEATON STATE HISTORIC SITE Visit one of the largest fortified adobe structures in Texas. Constructed in 1848 after the Treaty of Guadalupe-Hidalgo, Fort Leaton served as the sole supply depot for a 500-mile stretch of the Rio Grande and held a prominent place on the Chihuahua Trail. Interpretive exhibits highlight the area history and day to day life in the 1800s. Fort Leaton also serves as the western visitor center for Big Bend Ranch State Park. (432) 229-3613, www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/ fort-leaton

🅓 BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK This massive park of almost 300,000 acres flanks the “River Road” and features trailheads, small recreation areas, primitive camping and river access points. (432) 358- 4444, www.tpwd.texas.gov/stateparks/big-bend-ranch

Presidio's new water tower can be seen as you enter town on Highway 67, with its historic name: “La Junta de los Rios.” The city’s old water tower features a mural painted by world renowned street muralist El Mac. Presidio is also home of La Junta Heritage Center, a nonprofit organization developed in the memory of A. Kelly Pruitt, a Texas artist who’s been featured in Who’s Who in American Art. Several examples of Pruitt’s work can be seen in local Presidio businesses. Various other murals have been contributed by local artists, such as Laurie Holman. One mural honoring “The Lady in Blue” represents the First Christmas in Texas, which, according to local legend, took place in Presidio in 1683. Also, local artist Ramon Deanda created two amazing illustrations at the Panaderia Don Jose and at the new Presidio Pour-over Coffee Shop, located at 600 W. O’Reilly St. Another artist to create a mural is Mariell Guzman, whose piece celebrates the natural beauty of the Chihuahuan Desert in an array of beautiful bright colors. Her art can be viewed next to Harper Hardware down O’Reilly Street in downtown. Our latest artist to leave his mark is Jorge Avena with a mural on the wall of A&C

Furniture store in downtown across from Family Dollar, featuring the “La Junta People,” a take on the rich indigenous culture of the area. Visitors can also appreciate traditional architecture and building techniques, as featured in local adobe structures including the historic Santa Teresa de Jesus Church and the American Legion Post 176, both erected over 100 years ago.

🅔 FM 170 WEST — MOTORCYCLE RIDE TO RUIDOSA AND CHINATI HOT SPRINGS

🅗 LA JUNTA DE LOS RIOS

About 36 miles northwest of Presidio on FM 170, Ruidosa, a once thriving agricultural community, today is home to a general store. Also at the end of FM 170 is Candelaria, a beautiful drive often not seen by most visitors. The Chinati Hot Springs features constant 110-degree, mineral-rich waters that have been regarded for their healing qualities for well over 100 years. As you drive upriver you will see the Texas Historical Marker for the Chinati Cemetery locally known as Los Indios Cemetery. Visit the historic Ruidosa Church, El Corazon Sagrado de la Iglesia de Jesus, and its unique adobe arches, crafted by the Ruidosa community in 1915. www.chinatihotsprings.net

🅕 SHAFTER Twenty miles north of Presidio on Highway 67 are the remains of a once prosperous silver mining town. Extensive ruins are visible, though fenced against trespassing. The Shafter Cemetery features above-ground rock burials, some of which date back to the 1880s. Shafter is Texas’ only working silver mine, operated by Rio Grande Mining Company.

🅖 OJINAGA, MEXICO An easy drive across the international bridge, Ojinaga welcomes visitors with a variety of excellent restaurants and shops, a casual atmosphere and friendly, helpful locals. The cultural museum is a must-see on the road from the international bridge. Bring passport to cross and re-enter. facebook.com/ ojinaga.chih.mx

REMEMBER SEEING STARS AT NIGHT?

One of the Big Bend Ranch State Park’s greatest assets is that it is designated a part of the Greater Big Bend Dark Sky Reserve, the largest in the world. With a city resolution in place, the visibility of the night sky is protected from outdoor light pollution, which allows for great views of the black canopy overhead. At night, stare upward and you’ll find a view that’s breathtaking, like you’ve never seen in the big cities. On Fridays in August, Presidio celebrates this view with singersongwriters at the Dark Skies Music Festival at the American Legion Post 176 in Presidio. www.bigbenddarkskyreserve.org

The future home of La Junta Heritage Center is under development. La Junta de los Rios is a historic farming and trading area at the junction of the Rio Grande (called Rio del Norte by the Spanish) and the Rio Conchos.

🅘 ELEPHANT ROCK & PROFILE OF LINCOLN This bizarre rock structure can be viewed from Highway 67 just outside of Shafter. Another favorite rock novelty, the profile of Lincoln can be viewed from Highway 67 just north of Presidio.

🅙 PRESIDIO AQUATIC CENTER Pool open from Memorial Day to Labor Day (709 E. O’Reilly St.). Beat the heat in a pool designed for all ages, zero entry to 8.5-foot diving area. Featuring a 90-foot, figure-eight slide and other water features to get you wet. Bathhouse and showers, great place to cool off after adventures in the Big Bend. www. presidiotx.us

🅚 PRESIDIO ATHLETIC COMPLEX The Presidio Athletic Complex can be found at 1144 E. O’Reilly. Where baseball is king – and visitors are welcome!

🅛 PRESIDIO/OJINAGA INTERNATIONAL PORT OF ENTRY 99400 Highway 67, (432) 229-3349 Go through the port of entry to visit Presidio’s sister city, Ojinaga, and enjoy a unique tourism opportunity. The expansion of the bridge is in progress to improve international tourism and trade with Mexico. For ease in crossing, bring your passport. Friendly community BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 53

with good food and shopping. U.S. currency accepted in most places. U.S. Customs and Border Protection, open to traffic 24/7.

🅜 A BIKER’S DELIGHT: FM 170 EAST (RIVER ROAD) National Geographic magazine calls FM 170 to Presidio one of the “Top 10 Scenic Highways in North America” and RideTexas.com Reader’s Choice calls it the “Best Road Next to a River.” On two wheels or more, River Road is an adventure with side roads and stops to explore.

🅝 PRESIDIO AMERICAN LEGION 176 905 O'Reilly St. facebook.com/americanlegion. presidio.texas Established 1933. Bar and grill open now to all visitors.

🅞 EL CEMENTERIO DEL BARRIO DE LOS LIPANES (1790) Located within the town at the intersection of Barton Avenue and Market Street. A sacred site to Indigenous peoples of La Junta that became the final resting place of the Lipan Apache beginning in the 1790s, when Spanish colonial government named the area a peace settlement. The site is a Texas Antiquities Landmark; a protection project is currently underway in collaboration with MASS Design Group and includes a Texas Historical Marker.

🅟 DALY PARK 107 Edmundo Nieto St. & Commerce St. Located behind Harper Hardware store. Complete with picnic tables, grills, playground, musical instruments, swings, a teetertotter for kids and elderly exercise equipment.

RIO BRAVO SONGS

LOMA PALOMA RV PARK

EL BUEN GUSTO RESTAURANT

Rio Bravo songs returns to the wideopen beauty of Rio Bravo Ranch for three unforgettable nights of live music, Feb. 19-21. The lineup includes Roxy Cabello, Brandon Rhyder and Max and Heather Stalling. Visit riobravoranchtx.com for more details.

On FM 170, 4 miles east of downtown (432) 229-2992, lomapalomatx.com 84 wide, pull-thru sites. Showers.

206 W. O'Reilly St, (432) 321-9115 Facebook: search El Buen Gusto Presidio Fresh Mexican food from Chihuahua and Presidio, including tacos, tortas, burritos, aguas frescas and delicious desserts.

EVENTS Call or check websites for current status. 54 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

99140 Hwy 67 (as you come into town) (432) 209-9565 A hilltop campground with cabins and RV spaces with beautiful views.

FOURTH OF JULY An annual celebration is held at a city-designated area. Includes a fireworks show, food vendors and fun for the whole family. Admission free. Vendors, please contact City Hall at (432) 229-3517 for details.

PRESIDIO INTERNATIONAL DRAG STRIP FM 170 West A grassroots outdoor track built by community members, this is a 310-foot raceway where racers face off to test their cars’ mettle. Monthly Saturday night races.

SANTA TERESA FIESTAS Santa Teresa de Jesus Church. Each year the church committee hosts a two-day celebration with traditional food, arts and crafts. There is a raffle with all proceeds going directly to the church’s insurance and needs. Call (432) 229-3235 for more information.

LA CENTINELA (432) 229-3302, riobravoranchtx.com lacentinela@gmail.com Private 2/2 architecturally designed adobe house on FM 170, overlooking the Rio Grande with luxurious amenities. Home away from home for artists, birders and adventurers.

RIATA INN 99205 US 67 North, (432) 229-2528 riatainnpresidio.com Presidio’s motorcycle boutique hotel. Riders will find a home away from home and extras one not might expect traveling on a bike. Riata is certainly the motorcycle-friendly place for all travelers to stay in Presidio.

RIO BRAVO RANCH (432) 229-3302, riobravoranchtx.com riobravoranch1979@gmail.com Camping, large tent sites, shade structures, fire rings, grills, picnic tables, Chinati potty, BIG KAHUNA outdoor shower.

FIRST CHRISTMAS IN TEXAS The first Christmas in Texas was held in 1683 by Father Nicolas Lopez of Juan Dominguez de Mendoza expedition. Santa Teresa Catholic Church conducts Christmas mass, and the public is invited.

PRESIDIO COMMUNITY FARMERS MARKET Every Saturday, 8 a.m.–1 p.m., rain or shine. Live music. Held between St. Francis Park and City Hall.

B.J. BISHOP WETLANDS Frequented by birders, to see both songbirds and waterfowl. Late March through mid-May and late August through mid-October are migration seasons during which birders can view even more varieties as they pass through the area to seek seasonal habitats (26 acres). Located one-half mile from Fort Leaton on FM 170 East.

PRESIDIO LODGE & DASP RV PARK

LODGING

BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARKBUNKHOUSE (432) 358-4444 www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/bigbend-ranch

CIBOLO CREEK RANCH (866) 496-9460, cibolocreekranch.com 30 miles north of Presidio on Hwy 67

THREE PALMS INN 1200 N. Erma Ave., (432) 229-3211 threepalmsinn.com A great place to stay in Presidio. Comfortable rooms, pool, internet, and offers the Oasis Restaurant open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

FOOD AND DRINK

THE BEAN CAFÉ (432) 229-3131 facebook.com/@The-BeanCafe-100063583270356 Coffee shop and restaurant located in downtown Presidio in front of City Hall.

EL CHANGARRITO (432) 229-2274 Next to the railroad tracks on East O’Reilly Street facebook.com/ElChangarrito79845 Mexican food, shaded outdoor dining.

EL PATIO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 118 O’Reilly St., (432) 229-4409 Authentic Mexican food. Dine-in, drive-thru, no delivery. Popular restaurant located in front of the Santa Teresa de Jesus Catholic Church. Open 7 a.m.– 7 p.m.

PRESIDIO POUR-OVER COFFEE 600 W. O’Reilly St. Coffee shop in downtown Presidio across from City Hall. Espressos, slowbrew coffee, brown sugar boba milk teas, macarons and other pastries. Open Mon.–Fri., 6 a.m.–2 p.m. & 5 p.m.–9 p.m.; Sat., 8 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sun.,10 a.m.–3 p.m.

OASIS RESTAURANT Next to Three Palms Inn on Errma St. (432) 229-3998, threepalmsinn.com/ restaurant Open 7 a.m.–10 p.m. daily. Good food and desserts.

THE PINK FLAMINGO 902 O’Reilly Street, (432) 244-6362 facebook. comThePinkFlamingoPresidioTX thepinkflamingopresidiotx@gmail. com Colorful shaved ice shop serving snow cones, ice cream and delicious coffees. Open Mon.–Fri., 6:30 p.m.–9:30 p.m.

PONCHO’S PIZZA, TAXI SERVICE CASA AGAVE CANTINA AND COSINA 101 W. O'Reilly St., (432) 239-2030 Facebook: search Casa Agave Presidio info@casaagavetx.com Takeout, dine-in, outdoor seating, curbside pickup, in-store pickup and live music on the weekends. Open daily 10 a.m.–12 a.m.

144A N. Puerto Rico St. and US 67 (432) 229-2663 (432) 295-0447 (taxi service) facebook.com/ponchospizzapresidio Next to the Presidio International Bridge.

Te Lajitas PRESIDIO TRADING POST & CANTINA

AUTO ZONE

tours, hiking, mountain biking and camping. Single and multi-day trips available, tailored to your interests and schedules. Rental cabins available. Highest ranking on TripAdvisor!

River Rd. at FM 170 E. at 1412 Park Valley Ave. (432) 229-3916, presidiotradingpost. com Open evenings. Variety of chicken wing flavors. Best in town.

Western wear, footwear and vet supplies.

101 E. O’Reilly St., (432) 229-3223

DY CONVENIENCE STORE

MONTANA WESTERN WEAR & ALSE MISC.

(432) 229-4488, 104 W. O’Reilly

Hwy 67, next to Riata Inn, (432) 2292777 Open Monday–Saturday 5 a.m.–11 p.m. and Sunday 6 a.m.–11 p.m.

1120 O’Reilly Street, (432) 229-3224 Full selection of cowboy jeans, belts and hats, as well as a ladies section. Alse is a specialty store with a wide variety of personal products, from makeup to electronics.

OLIVAS AUTO PARTS

UETA DUTY FREE STORE

1818 Millington St., (432) 894-3249

Large building near International Bridge (432) 229-3766 Some items may be bought on the spot, others like liquor and cigarettes (up to 40% off retail) can only be exported to Mexico at the international bridge. Limit for bringing back liquor. Tax per liter: $3.75–$4 with 4-liter limit per person.

FRONTIER TRAVEL CENTER BIG BEND JEEP RENTAL bigbendjeep.com Self-guided Big Bend Jeep tours in safety and style. Daily and weekly rentals. Travel the famous River Road, explore historic sites or experience a memorable 4x4 adventure.

PANADERIA DON JOSE 109 N. Erma on Business US 67 (432) 229-3424 facebook.com/people/ Don-Jos%C3%A9Bakery/100054346428512 Family-run bakery known for its crescent rolls and for tamales and menudo on Sunday. Featuring a new and beautiful mural by local artist Ramon Deanda.

FAR WEST TEXAS OUTFITTERS

ROHANA TIRE 907 E. O’Reilly St., (432) 229-2525

1207 Millington, (432) 229-2028

(432) 229-2054 or (512) 632-4041 mike@farwesttexasoutfitters.com Seeking a week’s journey by canoe through some of North America’s most remote wild rivers canyons or a scenic day float, hike or drive. We tailor a custom experience for you.

SUBWAY SANDWICH SHOP

SERVICES

SHOPPING

20 VARAS BRAKE SERVICE

GALERIA RAICES

O’Reilly St. and S. Bunton Ave. (432) 210-7344

800 W. O’Reilly St., (432) 257-7537

THE SAGE

223 W. 1st St., (432) 229-2505 restaurants.subway.com/unitedstates/tx/presidio/corner-first-st-andsecond

PRESIDIO 67 VALERO Hwy 67 , (432) 229-4949

TOM’S SERVICE STATION 203 O’Reilly St., (432) 229-3259

DOLLAR TREE, FAMILY DOLLARS, DOLLAR GENERALS AND MELROSE All on Business 67/O'Reilly St. They may not have everything you want, but they have everything you need!

THE DREAMERS GALLERY OUTFITTERS AND TOURS

ALEX AUTOMOTIVE AUTO CARE CENTER

702 W. O’Reilly St., thedreamers.gallery

ANGELL EXPEDITIONS

Hwy 170 & E. O’Reilly St., (432) 2294014

NIETO’S

(432) 384-2307 or (305) 336-2787 angellexpeditions.com Full-service outfitter serving the greater Big Bend area. River rafting, canoeing, kayaking, Jeep

LOWE'S (432) 229-3776, 1000 Hwy 67 Popular stop for travelers looking for beverages, groceries, ice, fuel and money orders. It is a full-service grocery store, deli and bakery.

903 W. O’Reilly St., (432) 229-3220 Historic business in Presidio, dating back to the epoch of Pancho Villa.

FM 17

🅔 🅕 🅘 VY

SHAFTER WAY CEDAR AVE

COMMERCE ST

HURD AVE

MARKET ST

BUNTON AVE

OT H

ILL

SUNSET ST

RA NC H

BLEDSOE BLVD

BL VD MARKET ST

LONG HORN AVE

🅞

CASSELL ST

DOD AVE

OJINAGA AVE

FOOTHILL BLVD

BARTON AVE

ERMA AVE

TOMAS ORNEL A S ST

COMMERCE ST

🅙🅚

O’REILLY ST

CHICAGO ST SANTA CRUZ AVE SIERRA AVE DURAN ST FM 170

VELA ST

ORNELAS ST

GONAZLES AVE

TRAVER ST

PROPST ST

MANUEL ORNELAS ST

CALIXTRO & JUAN QUIROZ ST

🅐 ALFREDO BAEZA ST

ISHMAEL SPENCER

JULIAN TAVAREZ ST

JUAREZ ST

FRANCISCO SPENCER ST

BRIDGE ST

ASHLAND ST

RALPH ENGLAND ST

COMMERCE ST

FERNANDO DALY ST

MARKET ST

BOMAR AVE

BLEDSOE BLVD

LAFAYETTE ST

IGNACIO ST

THOMPSON ST

LOVETT ST

SCOTT ST

BRIDGE ST

LEATON ST

🅟

MADRID ST

DUPUY AVE

SILVER AVE

SIMON GONZALEZ ST

🅑🅝

INE

ALP

ALPINE ST

LAGONA AVE

PARIS ST

LONDON ST

🅖

🅛

ITT AV

D LV LOUVAIN BLVD

DOD AVE

IL ROSEDALE ST

LOUVAIN BLVD

BLEDSOE BLVD

ALTON AVE

LONG HORN AVE

H OT

ROSEDALE AVE

SUMM

1ST ST

RALPH ENGLAND ST

1ST AVE

2ND AVE

JOSE RODRIGUEZ ST

DIAZ ST

EL CAMPO ST

HOWARD ST

PORTO RICO ST

CASSELL ST

HENRY DALY ST

LOUVAIN BLVD

BELMONT ST

🅗

E AV

LEATON ST EDMUNDO M. NIETO ST

BROOKS ST BEACH AVE

ST NDO

available at city hall (507 W. O’Reilly St.).

n ra

discoverpresidiotx.com

🅜🅒 🅓 FM 170

FM 170

city of PRESIDIO, TEXAS

4TH ST

MILLINGTON BLVD

ORLA

Presidio Tourist info E

R AV

RIVE

(432) 229-3517

O IC

Presidio BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 55

1 mile

170

•

GUADALUPE MTS. NP

Odessa

• Van Horn • Alpine TERLINGUA BIG BEND

56 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

o the east of Big Bend State Park and to the west of Big Bend National Park sits the Terlingua/Study Butte area, which attracts visitors looking for West Texas adventure. Rafting on the Rio Grande, mountain biking, camping, hiking and motorcycling are popular outdoor activities throughout the region, and many such trips begin in this tiny community. But the adrenaline-rushing tourist activities aren’t what originally put Terlingua on the map. That honor goes to cinnabar, a bright mineral consisting of mercury sulfide — an important ore of mercury and used by Native Americans as body pigment. Its discovery in the 1880s brought miners to the desolate Chihuahuan Desert and spawned the Chisos Mining Company, founded by Howard Perry in 1903. For more than two decades, the operation extracted quicksilver, which was used in the manufacture of gunpowder cartridges and shells. Business boomed, particularly during World War I, and the small town of Terlingua blossomed around the mines. But once the Great Depression hit, the quicksilver industry suffered, leading to a reduced need for mine labor and, ultimately, the closure of the Chisos Mining Company in 1942. Though many miners moved on, remnants of their time in the far West Texas community remain. The Terlingua Ghost Town, which is on the National Register of Historic Places, features what’s left of miners’ homes, their church and Perry’s hilltop mansion, along

THE PLACE TO GO TO GET AWAY FROM IT ALL

with several capped and abandoned mines — most notably the California Hill, the Rainbow, the 248 and the Study Butte mines. No trip to the area is complete without a visit to the front porch of the Terlingua Trading Company — what was once the company store of the Chisos Mining Company. From this popular gathering place, onlookers can get to know the locals while taking in a sweeping view of Big Bend National Park and the Chisos Mountains, including the hard-to-miss formation known as “Mule Ears.” When the sun goes down, enjoy some of the best celestial viewing in the country. Each year on the first Saturday in November, more than 10,000 “chiliheads” convene in Terlingua for two annual chili cook-offs: the Chili Appreciation Society’s International Chili Championship and the Frank X. Tolbert/Wick Fowler Memorial World Championship Chili Cookoff. These annual events feature costumes, live music and serious competition. They have come to personify Terlingua and spread the reputation of this unique Texas village worldwide. The neighboring community of Study Butte (pronounced “stoody byoot”) may be lesser known, but it is the economic hub of the area and has a similar history steeped in mining. Today, stores, lodging and other amenities cater to tourists enjoying all that the Big Bend region has to offer.

MAX ST. JOHN

TERLINGUA AND STUDY BUTTE

ATTRACTIONS

BARTON WARNOCK VISITOR CENTER

TERLINGUA TRADING COMPANY

The Center serves as the eastern entrance to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Exhibits interpret 570 million years of geologic history and the five biological landscapes of the Chihuahuan Desert. It was named for famed botanist and 33-year Sul Ross State University professor Dr. Barton Warnock (1911–1998). www.tpwd.texas.gov/ state-parks/barton-warnock

Housed in the former company store of the Chisos Mining Company (100 Ivey Rd.), this is a modern-day version of the trading post that served trappers, settlers and cowboys along the Rio Grande. Today, the gift shop and community gathering place sells gifts influenced by Mexico and the southwestern U.S., including books, maps and art. (432) 371-2234, www.ghosttowntexas.com/ terlinguatradingcompany.html

HISTORIC TERLINGUA AND TERLINGUA GHOST TOWN On Highway 170, five miles west of 118 Added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1996, the Terlingua Historic District holds the largest concentration of mining architecture in the area. Some buildings have been restored as shops, restaurants and homes, including the Starlight Theatre and the Terlingua Trading Company. Other remnants, such as miners’ homes, an area church and the Perry Mansion, are weathered ruins. The Terlingua Ghost Town also includes capped and abandoned mines left over from the early-1900s mining boom and a boot hill cemetery. www.ghosttowntexas.com

BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK If you’ve made it to far West Texas, Big Bend National Park is probably on your itinerary. The Terlingua and Study Butte area is a great starting point from which to base your national park adventure. Once inside the park, consider the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. This stunning loop on the western side of Big Bend passes many favorite trailheads and ends at the majestic Santa Elena Canyon. The improved dirt Maverick Road leads back to the park entrance at Maverick Junction. www.visitbigbend.com

MAX ST. JOHN

BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK The largest state park in Texas, with over 300,000 acres of Chihuahuan Desert wilderness, the park embraces some of the most remote and rugged terrain in the Southwest. Mountain bikers, hikers and equestrians enjoy miles of trails that traverse “the other side of nowhere.” www.tpwd.texas. gov/state-parks/big-bend-ranch

WALKING TOUR OF TERLINGUA GHOSTTOWN This self-guided tour starts at the flag pole in front of the Terlingua Trading Company. Go to the website for more details. terlinguatexas.com/moreexcursions

CAMINO DEL RIO — THE RIVER ROAD Highway 170 along the Rio Grande is a favorite among travelers. You’ll find several camping areas, river access points and trailheads along the way. At places, the road becomes narrow, winding and very steep, making it difficult for some RVs, buses and trailer rigs. Open grazing is also allowed along this stretch of road, so keep your eyes peeled for cows, horses, mules or burros.

RIDE THE RIO GRANDE The Terlingua and Study Butte area is the jumping off point for your river adventure. There are a number of experienced outfitters that will make your trip fun and safe, whether it be by raft, canoe or kayak.

OUTFITTERS AND ACTIVITIES

five miles west of the junction of TX170 and TX118, next to Terlingua Ghost Town.

BLACK JACK’S CROSSING GOLF COURSE lajitasgolfresort; (432) 424-5080 For multiple years, the Dallas Morning News has voted this 18-hole championship golf course designed by Ryder Cup Captain Lanny Wadkins the top course you can play in Texas. The course winds through the mountains, canyon and desert, capturing the beauty and drama of the Big Bend region while offering challenging golf for all skill levels.

BIG BEND STATION (432) 371-3382 , (877) 386-4383 bigbendresort.com Big Bend Station offers experienced guides to take you to all areas of the Big Bend. The tours are conducted in a Ford Excursion 4-wheel drive vehicle with air conditioning for your comfort.

TRANSPORTATION

TRANS-PECOS JEEPS

BIG BEND RIVER TOURS

FAR FLUNG OUTDOOR CENTER

23331 FM 170 (800) 545-4240 bigbendrivertours.com The oldest full-service outfitter in the area, Big Bend River Tours offers guided rafting trips, canoe trips, guided hikes, backroad tours and combination trips.

23310 FM 170; (432) 371-2633 bigbendfarflung.com Far Flung Outdoor Center helps visitors experience the Big Bend area up close and personal with river trips, walks and hikes, and Jeep and ATV tours. They also offer courses in wilderness first aid and canoe rentals.

DESERT SPORTS

BIG BEND & LAJITAS STABLES

22937 FM 170 (432) 371-2727 desertsportstx.com Desert Sports offers mountain bike rentals, repair and a variety of accessories and last-minute necessities for bicycle activities. Located on FM170,

next to Big Bend National Park, along Scenic Rio Grande and atop the mesas of the Bofecillos Mountains in Big Bend Ranch State Park. Hourly, half- or all- day and multiple days available.

(800) 887-4331, (432) 371-3064 www.lajitasstables.com/index.html lajitasstables@bigbend.net Offering guided horseback rides for almost 30 years! Riders can enjoy the frontier lands of the Chihuahuan Desert

(432) 294-6043 Trans-PecosJeeps.com Trans-Pecos Jeeps is a car rental company based in Alpine and offers a fleet of late model ’21–’22 Jeep Gladiators in Mojave and Rubicon trims. All car rentals include 250 miles per day and they can deliver Jeeps to the Alpine Amtrak Station, Alpine Airport, Fort Davis, Marfa (including the Marfa Airport), Marathon, Study Butte and Terlingua.

EVENTS Call or check websites for more details.

DAY OF THE DEAD/ DIA DE LOS MUERTOS It’s a Terlingua tradition to meet BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 57

BIG BEND ULTRA RUN This racing event takes place every January in Big Bend Ranch State Park. Participants can choose from a 50K, 30K, 20K and 10K trail run over desert terrain. The premium, ultra and distance trail races in the Chihuahuan Desert of South Brewster County benefit Big Bend Ranch State Park and Friends of Big Bend Ranch State Park. www.bigbend50.com

VIVA BIG BEND

at sunset on Nov. 2 at the historic cemetery in the Terlingua Ghost Town to light candles and make offerings to loved ones long past, remember old friends and make new ones as everyone visits and honors those who’ve gone before them. www.visitbigbend.com

FRANK X. TOLBERT-WICK FOWLER ORIGINAL TERLINGUA INTERNATIONAL CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP COOK-OFF

and Saturday nights. www.casichili.net

TERLINGUA CHIHUAHUA RACES BLACK-EYED PEA OFF

TERLINGUA INTERNATIONAL CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP The Chili Appreciation Society International’s annual event is held at Rancho CASI de los Chisos on the north side of Highway 170, 11 miles west of Study Butte. CASI hosts the annual championship on the first weekend of November. The festivities include BBQ, salsa, beans and wings contests. There is live music entertainment on Thursday, Friday

Since 1990, Terlingua residents and visitors have celebrated the start of a new year with a black-eyed pea cooking competition. The annual Jan. 1 event occurs on the porch of the Terlingua Trading Company and has two rules: have fun and no beans! A first place trophy is awarded and proceeds benefit local causes.

The Chihuahua races take place each March and benefit the Family Crisis Center of the Big Bend. Enjoy the race, games, a dog costume contest and food and music.

LODGING For a complete listing of area lodging options, go to www.VisitBigBend.com.

GHOST TOWN HOTEL 100 Terlingua Ghost Town (432) 371-2111

FROM TOP: CISCO GAMEZ, LEE HOY

First held in 1967, this annual celebration features some of the best chili this side of the Pecos, plus big

name musical talent. It's held the first weekend of November. More details at www.abowlofred.com

The annual music festival, which celebrates its 15th anniversary in 2026, has expanded in recent years to include South Brewster County and specifically Terlingua. The final weekend of July is the time to catch the music.

58 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

ghosttownhotel.com Located behind the High Sierra Bar & Grill, the Ghost Town Hotel offers traditional single, double and king rooms, as well as a one-bedroom villa and a fully remodeled tour bus that sleeps four.

TERLINGUA ESCONDIDO (432) 371-2173 terlinguaescondido.com Luxury yurts and loft, walking distance to Terlingua Ghost Town yet hidden from view. Gaze at stars, moon and clouds through the dome skylight of a yurt, or take in spectacular views of the Chisos Mountains and dark night skies. Located between Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park, Terlingua Escondido is your ideal spot for relaxing and adventuring!

of the Historic Terlingua Ghost Town, Holiday Hotel offers sophisticated accommodations in a primitive setting. Guests can choose between the lovingly restored suites, casitas and family suites.

LAJITAS GOLF RESORT/ MAVERICK RANCH RV PARK On Hwy 170 (432) 424-5000, (877) LAJITAS

lajitasgolfresort.com A full-service resort which is also home to a beautiful 18-hole golf course and an outfitter service. Maverick Ranch RV Park offers 101 sites, including 60 full-service pull-throughs and 18 primitive wilderness campsites for those interested in having a true, rustic tent camping experience.

BIG BEND CASITAS (432) 371-2633 bigbendfarflung.com/lodging

LONGHORN RANCH MOTEL 52370 TX-118, Terlingua (432) 371-2541

TERLINGUA RANCH LODGE 16000 Terlingua Ranch Rd., Terlingua (432) 371-3146

LA POSADA MILAGRO laposadamilagro.com Built atop ruins in the Terlingua Ghost Town, the pet-friendly La Posada Milagro provides rustic luxury accommodations. Each room is unique, and visitors can enjoy views of Big Bend National Park from sun decks and courtyards. Also featured is an on-site coffee shop and taqueria.

CHISOS MINING CO. MOTEL 23280 FM 170 (432) 371-2254 motelsbigbend.com For more than 40 years, this locally owned and operated motel just minutes from both Big Bend National Park and Big Bend State Park has served West Texas visitors.

BIG BEND STATION * INN & RV RANCH BIG BEND STATION * MISSION HOTEL

Three miles from the western entrance to Big Bend National Park (432) 371-3382 bigbendresort.com Big Bend Station features lodging, gift shop, food, a convenience store and guided back country tours. A campground and RV park with full hookups is also onsite.

MAX ST. JOHN

HOLIDAY HOTEL 100 Ivey Rd. (432) 203-6929 bigbendholidayhotel.com Located between Study Butte and Lajitas on Highway 170, in the heart

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 59

VAN HORN VAN HORN IS THE CROSSROADS OF THE TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL

•

Odessa

VAN HORN

•

Alpine BIG BEND NP

an Horn was established in 1881, when the Texas and Pacific Railway came through. Before that, it was a stopping point for travelers on the Old Spanish Trail and the San Antonio-El Paso Overland Mail route. Today, Van Horn is the county seat of Culberson County, sitting at the helm of the western portion of the region, almost exactly halfway between Fort Stockton and El Paso. Of the many area attractions, a large number of visitors to Van Horn are those heading up to Guadalupe Mountains National Park and on to Carlsbad Caverns just across the Texas/New Mexico border. Many choose to stay in the newly remodeled historic Hotel El Capitan, one of the Trost & Trost hotels that dot this part of the country. The El Capitan is a newly remodeled gem of historic architecture. 60 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

ATTRACTIONS

GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK Enjoy one of the most beautiful drives in Texas en route to the stunning and varied landscapes of the Guadalupe Mountains. Just one hour north of Van Horn, this national park is home to the highest peak in the state — Guadalupe Peak at 8,750 feet. Enjoy a variety of hiking trails accessible year-round, historic sites and interpretive displays. See page 19 for much more information on Guadalupe Mountains National Park. www.nps.gov/gumo

THE EL CAPITAN TO EL CAPITAN HERITAGE BIKE ROUTE A 55-mile ride along a scenic and historic route! Cyclists from all over are coming to ride Highway 54 between the Historic Hotel El Capitan and El Capitan Mountain in Guadalupe Mountains National Park.

CLARK HOTEL MUSEUM Anyone interested in the historical aspects of West Texas will want to stop at the Clark Hotel Museum. Located in the historic hotel that once served railroad travelers,

this museum features pioneer, Native American and railroad memorabilia. The museum contains a stunning collection of artifacts reflecting the history of Van Horn and the surrounding area. There are displays showing the history of mining, ranching, the railroad and other early activities, as well as personal items which belonged to members of early pioneer families who first settled here. It features an old western-style saloon with a mirrored back bar, which have been in the same room since the early 1900s. (432) 283-8028

LODGING

HOTEL EL CAPITAN 100 E. Broadway St. (877) 283-1220 thehotelelcapitan.com The Hotel El Capitan was built in 1930 based on designs by notable architect Henry Trost, of Trost & Trost of El Paso. After a $2.5 million renovation, the El Capitan is even more superb than in 1930. There are now 38 rooms and suites, a fine dining room and the Gopher Hole Bar.

COURTESY CITY OF VAN HORN

GUADALUPE MTS. NP

TEXAS

d a o R TR IPS

EXPERIENCE THESE UNIQUE CITIES ON THE WAY TO A ND FROM T HE TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL 63 DEL RIO 64 FORT STOCKTON 69 MONAHANS 71 OZONA

TEXAS PARKS & WILDLIFE

72 TOYAHVALE AND BALMORHEA

Seminole Canyon

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 61

DEL RIO

VAL VERDE WINERY The Val Verde Winery is a must stop for visitors. Established in 1883, it produces an array of wines from white Viognier to the red Sangiovese. The winery provides inviting grounds to relax and sip on your choice of wine with a beautiful view of the vineyard at sunset.

THE OASIS ON THE BORDER

WHITEHEAD MEMORIAL MUSEUM The Whitehead Museum provides a look back at the history of the region with over 30 exhibits. See the resting place of Judge Roy Bean or learn about the days of Wolfman Jack broadcasting on the most potent radio waves in the United States. The museum preserves historical and tangible artifacts that reflect the early history, cultures and economies of Del Rio and Val Verde County.

HISTORIC DOWNTOWN DEL RIO Discover historic downtown Del Río: the art galleries displaying popular pieces from around the world, our monthly Art Walks, the summer concert series Noches Musicales hosted by Casa de La Cultura, the Fiesta De Amistad celebrations in October and much more. For a listing of all Del Río has to offer, please visit drchamber.com.

JUDGE ROY BEAN VISITOR CENTER Judge Roy Bean established his Jersey Lilly saloon, helping to stir an already roiling pot of lawlessness, before capturing the position of justice of the peace. Today, the Jersey Lilly and the opera house Bean built combine to create the Judge Roy Bean Visitors Center.

COURTESY DEL RIO CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

SEMINOLE CANYON STATE PARK & HISTORIC SITE

THERE'S A REASON WHY DEL RIO IS KNOWN AS THE OASIS ON THE BORDER — LOCATED 2 1/2 HOURS WEST OF SAN ANTONIO, YOU’LL FIND SOME OF THE BEST NATURAL AMENITIES KNOWN IN TEXAS

rom rugged canyons to the serenity of the vineyards, Del Rio blends nature and adventure into one unforgettable destination. Known as the Queen City of the Rio Grande, Del Rio brings together the best of the border. Mexican flavors, Texas charm,

•

GUADALUPE MTS. NP

•

Odessa

Van Horn

Ancient rock art will draw you here. But you’ll find other things to do as well: camp, hike, mountain bike, geocache and study history and nature. Early canyon dwellers left clues to their lives on the stone walls and their pictographs tell stories that we try to understand today. Come see it for yourself; we’re along the Rio Grande near Del Rio.

WHITE SHAMAN

•

Alpine

DEL RIO BIG BEND NP

rich history and stunning natural amenities can be experienced all year. Make Del Rio your destination and discover a side of Texas you'll love.

Journey into the rugged Lower Pecos Canyonlands to experience the White Shaman mural, considered one of the most complex narratives in the world, at the Witte Museum's White Shaman Preserve. Located near Seminole Canyon State Park, this trek takes you through a landscape filled with desert plants and stunning views of the Pecos River where it converges with the Rio Grande. The White Shaman mural, painted thousands of years ago, illustrates the nowgone hunter-gatherer society.

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 63

ATTRACTIONS

🅐 FORT STOCKTON VISITOR CENTER Located in the renovated Kansas City, Mexico and Orient Railroad Depot, the Visitor Center provides information on local and regional attractions. The surrounding grounds house interpretive displays on Comanche Springs, Buffalo Soldiers, early pioneers, vaqueros and Comanche Indians. Also located at the Center is the operational Pecos County/Fort Stockton Renewable Energy Park, featuring wind and solar power generation that supplies energy for operations at the Visitor Center. 1000 Railroad Avenue (432) 336-2264 www. historicfortstocktontx.com

🅑 THE GREY MULE SALOON The historic saloon offers visitors a unique experience of enjoying an evening in an adobe structure where cowboys, pioneers and outlaws once drank and watched the construction of what is now the Annie Riggs Memorial Museum. Open Wednesday through Sunday (2:30 p.m.–8 p.m.). (432) 336WINE. Available for special events and group appointments.

FORT STOCKTON 64 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

Beginning at the Visitor Center, the self-guided driving tour of the Historic District features 17 locations with descriptive signage and period photographs. (432) 336-2264

🅒 PAISANO PETE

GUADALUPE MTS. NP

•

Odessa

• Van Horn H FORT STOCKTON • Alpine BIG BEND NP

Paisano Pete, located in the center of town on the corner of Main and Dickinson, is inarguably one of the most recognizable roadside attractions in the Southwest. Fort Stockton’s unofficial mascot was erected in 1980 and declared the largest roadrunner in the world, at 11 feet tall and 22 feet long. “Pete” was the idea of Mayor Gene Cummings and has been an enduring symbol of the community since his arrival. He is one of the most photographed ”birds” in the world.

🅓 OLD FORT CEMETERY In use from 1859 to 1912, grave markers are a testament to the hard and often violent life on the early frontier.

COURTESY FORT STOCKTON CVB

ort Stockton was established in March 1859 as Camp Stockton. The army withdrew from Texas during the Civil War and abandoned Fort Stockton in 1861. Confederate troops briefly occupied the site until they, too, withdrew in 1862. In July 1867, Fort Stockton was re-established by four companies of the 9th U.S. Cavalry Regiment. The 9th was one of the new regiments, organized after the Civil War, staffed with African American enlisted men known as Buffalo Soldiers. The community was originally known as Saint Gall, but the locals changed the name to Fort Stockton in 1881. Fort Stockton was incorporated as a city in December of 1910 and elected its first mayor in 1911. Fort Stockton is the county seat of Pecos County, the second-largest county in the state. Covering nearly 5,000 square miles, Pecos County is one of Texas’ largest energy producers, combining renewable energy with fossil fuels. Tourism, agriculture, retail sales and the service industry are also important contributors to the local economy.

HISTORIC FORT STOCKTON DRIVING TOUR

285

🅖

W 21ST ST W PANTHER ST

AV E RO AD

AV E

LR OA D AI

E 5TH ST

W 4TH ST

🅓🅔 🅑🅕

W 3RD ST

🅗

COMANCHE ST

MILL ST

S MAIN ST

PA R

IE W

W SPRING ST

SON

DER Y

GONZALEZ RD

SAN

BLUEBIRD ST

W GONZALEZ ST

CARDINAL ST

Pat Taylor Field

S NELSON ST

W EL PASO ST

S JACKSON ST

S YOUNG ST

S VALENTINE ST

W RYAN ST

S FRONT ST

W GALLAGHER ST

S BUTZ ST

W JAMES ST

285

James Rooney Memorial Park

W 1ST ST

W DIVISION ST W CALLAGHAN ST

385

S RIO ST

194

ATKINS ST

S KANSAS ST

S MISSOURI ST

S COLPITTS ST

S PECOS ST

ROLLINS ST

S RIO ST

S SUMMIT ST

S SAGE ST

A RO AIL

385

E 7TH ST

W 2ND ST

W SHERER ST

VE DA

N GATLIN ST

W 3RD ST

W GALLAGHER ST

N URIAS ST

W 4TH ST

W JAMES ST

N FORT ST

N EVERTS ST

N MCINTYRE ST

S GREASEWOOD ST

S SYCAMORE ST

W CALLAGHAN ST

W JAMES ST

285

385

E 8TH ST

E 6TH ST

W 5TH ST

W 4TH ST

W 2ND ST

194

W 6TH ST

E 9TH ST

N SLATE ST

W 6TH ST

W 7TH ST

THOMSON ST

W 7TH ST

E 10TH ST

N PARK ST

🅐 🅒

N ALAMO ST

W 8TH ST

N VALENTINE ST

W 8TH ST

N BUTZ ST

W 9TH ST

N FRONT ST

W 9TH ST DEES ST

W 5TH ST

N LODAL ST

NETT

N AR

DYKE ST

PECAN ST

W 9TH ST

W DICKINSON BLVD

N ORIENT ST

E 13TH ST

N GILLIS ST

W DICKINSON BLVD

N ORIENT ST

N ST GALL ST

N WILLIAMS ST

N ROONEY ST

N WATER ST

E 14TH ST

W 13TH ST W 12TH ST

N PINE ST

N OAK ST

DYKE ST

N MAIN ST

W HORNBECK BLVD

W 14TH ST

W 11TH ST

W 9TH ST

N NELSON ST

N TEXAS ST

N OKLAHOMA ST

N KANSAS ST

N MISSOURI ST

N COLPITTS ST

N PECOS ST

N RIO ST

W 14TH ST

W 16TH ST

N JACKSON ST

N YOUNG ST

N MARSHALL ST

W DICKINSON BLVD

REDWOOD ST

W HORNBACK BLVD

W 12TH ST

ELM ST

W 18TH ST W 17TH ST

285

W 14TH ST

E 19TH ST

Fort Stockton High School

WESTWIND DR

285

385

🅔 HISTORIC FORT STOCKTON

🅖 DESERT PINES MUNICIPAL GOLF COURSE

SUMMER OFF THE PATIO CONCERT SERIES

This important Indian Wars fort was active from 1867 1 mile to 1886. It was strategically placed at Comanche Springs to protect the San Antonio-to-El Paso mail, freight wagons, cattle drives and immigrants. Today Historic Fort Stockton consists of four of the original buildings and reconstructed barracks housing the museum and period displays. 301 East Third Street (432) 336-2400

This 18-hole course is home to Blaine McCallister, a leading PGA touring professional. Open Tuesday– Sunday. (432) 336-2050

Sponsored by the Fort Stockton Historical Society, this free, six-session summer concert series is held off the back porch at the Annie Riggs Memorial Museum, featuring historic period- and western-themed music. The concerts are held on Thursdays during the summer. (432) 336-2167

🅕 ANNIE RIGGS MEMORIAL MUSEUM  Built in 1899, the museum is an excellent example of Territorial architecture. The Riggs family donated the building to the Fort Stockton Historical Society in 1956 for use as a museum of the town’s wild and colorful history with displays featuring area geology, archeology and pioneer life. 301 S. Main. (432) 3362167

🅗 JAMES ROONEY MEMORIAL PARK Home to the historic Comanche Springs Pavilion and Swimming Pool, built in 1938 over the Big Chief Spring, the pool is the site of Fort Stockton’s annual Water Carnival. 208 S. Hwy 285, Pool – 200 Spring Dr. (432) 336-2751

EVENTS Call or check websites for more information.

LIVE AT ZERO STONE CONCERT SERIES Sponsored by the Fort Stockton Chamber of Commerce, this free, six-session summer concert series is held at Zero Stone Park in downtown Fort Stockton. Many types of music are celebrated, including jazz, swing and hard rock. The concerts are held every other Friday. (432) 336-2264

BIG BEND OPEN ROAD RACE Fort Stockton is the starting point for this “most challenging open road race in the world,” held the last Saturday in April along Highway 285 to Sanderson. This event draws hundreds to the area and offers excitement for all ages. Contact: (432) 336-2264 www. bborr.com

FALL FESTIVAL Held the first weekend of October, the Fall Festival is a weekend of fun-filled events including arts & crafts booths, food booths, kids activities, a wine emporium, goat roping and team roping. (432) 336-2264

OLD FORT DAYS

COURTESY FORT STOCKTON CVB

FORT STOCKTON WATER CARNIVAL The Fort Stockton Water Carnival tradition began back in 1936, when Comanche Springs flowed freely and Texas was celebrating its Centennial. The annual event occurs the third weekend in July and includes singing, dancing, water ballet performances and the crowning of Miss Fort Stockton. Held at Comanche Springs Pool and Pavilion, the three-day event continues to be run by local volunteers. (432) 336-2264

Held annually on the historic fort grounds the third weekend in October, Old Fort Days brings history to life with period reenactors and demonstrations. Military units representing the periods of occupation of Fort Stockton are represented, as are the civilian populations that lived near the historic fort. Demonstrations of skills needed to survive during the early settlement of the Southwest are presented, as well as military demonstrations of infantry, cavalry and artillery skills. (432) 336-2400

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 65

68 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

MONAHANS

ATTRACTIONS

 SANDHILLS STATE PARK Five miles northeast of Monahans off I20. (432) 943-2092

WARD COUNTY MUSEUM AT THE MILLION BARREL

•

Odessa

GUADALUPE MTS. NP

MONAHANS Van Horn

•

Alpine

COME PLAY IN OUR SANDBOX AND EXPERIENCE SOME OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SUNRISES AND SUNSETS

PHOTOS THIS PAGE COURTESY MONAHANS CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

ohn Thomas Monahan is the name of the man who dug the well and for whom the community of Monahans is named. The discovery of water at the site of present-day Monahans was a breakthrough, according to the Encyclopedia of the New West, written in 1881, which notes, “The Texas and Pacific Railroad found here its first inexhaustible supply of pure water.” For the first time, it became apparent that the “Monahans Well” may have had a very significant impact. Monahans Sandhills State Park is noted for the presence of sand dunes up to 70 feet high. Although desert-like, the Monahans Sandhills are not a desert; they are a part of a semi-arid ecosystem (average annual rainfall: 12.3 inches) characterized by the presence of both groundwater and relatively nutrient-poor windblown sand. The shinoak (Quercus havardii) is a local climax shrub, an unusual type of oak tree that, because of local conditions, often achieves full growth of only four feet in height. Most of a shinoak’s biomass exists in

BIG BEND NP

the form of a lengthy root system reaching down to groundwater. If a Monahans sand dune has become stabilized and stopped blowing about in the wind, it is often because a small grove of shinoaks have stabilized the dune with their extensive root systems. Despite the sterility of the landscape, various rodents are relatively common, and several packs of Sandhills coyotes feed upon them. Much of the Monahans Sandhills are privately owned property. The state of Texas is operating a 99year lease with the Sealy-Smith Foundation for the ranch on which most of the land of the state park is located; the park opened to the public in 1957, and the state park has leasehold rights to this parcel of the sand hills until 2056. The Monahans Sandhills are part of the Permian Basin of hydrocarbon formations, and some oil production continues in and around the state park. Visitors practice several local forms of recreation at the Monahans Sandhills, such as sandboarding, sand volleyball, sand surfing and sand tobogganing.

Open Tuesday–Sunday, 10 am–6 pm (432) 943-8401 Located at the Million Barrel, this 14.5acre site is a historical potpourri. Built in 1928, the tank was designed to hold over a million barrels of crude oil and today provides a perfect performance venue for the 400-seat Meadows Amphitheater. Boasting a wide variety of historical artifacts, the Ward County Museum complex is a must-do for any history buff. Coca-Cola Museum: Commemorates the Coca-Cola bottling plant and the Big Burger Restaurant. It is a private collection donated to the museum by Dan and Elaine Wetzig and the Conrad Dunagan family. The collection contains all kinds of Coca-Cola memorabilia and collectibles. Heritage Museum: Contains numerous antique collections of cameras, medical instruments, rifles and shotguns dated back to the early ’20s, surveying equipment, oilfield equipment and a penny-farthing bicycle. Railroad Museum: See antiques from the Pyote Train Depot, the rail car and caboose, and the SWBT last “step” office in Texas. The Pyote Bomber Base Museum: This important collection is a wonderful venue for WWII enthusiasts. Visit their newest exhibit and learn about the Pyote Army Airfield, which trained B-17 and B-29 crews.

WARD COUNTY GOLF COURSE  An 18-hole course that features 6,669 yards of golf from the longest tees for a par of 72. The course rating is 69.9 and has a slope rating of 115 on Bermuda grass. The golf course opened in 1934.

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 69

OZONA

OZONA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE AND VISITOR CENTER Open Monday through Friday, 9 a.m.–5 p.m., and Saturdays from 10 a.m.–3 p.m. 24-hour restrooms. Find local and regional details as well as tourist information for a 300-mile radius of Ozona. Located at the intersection of I-10 and Hwy 163 South. Exit 365. www.ozona.com Facebook page: OzonaChamber

CROCKETT COUNTY MUSEUM Three-story period museum featuring an award-winning Indian exhibit, general store, bank room, saddle room and many other exhibits. Experience a way of life lived by so many before us. www. ozonamuseum.com

CROCKETT COUNTY INTERPRETIVE TRAIL & RAINWATER HARVEST EXHIBIT  Open to the public seven days a week and located just across the parking lot of the visitor center at the intersection of I-10 and Hwy 163 South. A great collection of native plants from within a 100-mile radius of Ozona, along with an exhibit on how to collect rain water. www.ozona.com

LODGING Where to stay after a day of exploring:

REPUBLIC HOTEL OF OZONA 3330 I-10 East • (325) 392-2611

HAMPTON INN HOTEL 816 11th Street • (325) 392-1449 EDRA-Escondido Draw Recreational Area EscondidoDraw.org

PHOTOS COURTESY OZONA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

LOCATED IN THE TEXAS PECOS TRAIL, OZONA IS THE PERFECT I-10 STOP BETWEEN SAN ANTONIO AND EL PASO OZONA, THE ONLY TOWN in over 2,800 square miles of Crockett County, was organized in 1891 and bears the name of Alamo hero David Crockett. Ozona is not only rich in history but offers an array of activities. Home of the three-story period museum, featuring an award-winning Indian exhibit, or a nearby fort to understand life out west. From historical walking and nature tours to off-roading and scenic drives, there truly is something for the whole family. Discover local and area attractions at www.ozona.com.

AMERICAS BEST VALUE INN 820 11th St. • (325) 392-2631

HILLCREST INN & SUITES 1204 Sheffield Road • (325) 392-4000

GUADALUPE MTS. NP

•

Van Horn

•

Alpine BIG BEND NP

QUALITY INN/MAIN STAY

•

1307 Avenue A • (325) 392-3791

Odessa OZONA

ECONOMY INN & RV PARK 1103 Avenue A/I-10 Exit 365 • (325) 392-3394

TRAVELODGE 8 11th Street • (325) 392-2656

HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS 1308 Avenue E • (325) 392-9000 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 71

BALMORHEA STATE PARK

TOYAHVALE and BALMORHEA

In addition to the spring-fed pool, the State Park features the Cienega Wetlands Restoration, a refuge for indigenous aquatic and amphibian life. Visitors can stay in San Solomon Springs Courts or at the campground.

TOYAHVALE DESERT OASIS The only outfitter by the park! Visit this fullservice dive shop for swim gear and to schedule scuba diving lessons in the crystal-clear waters of San Solomon Springs. Scuba and snorkeling gear rentals. Plus, all the supplies you’ll need for your visit to Balmorhea State Park.

THE WATERS OF SAN SOLOMON SPRINGS SURFACE AT TOYAHVALE, WHERE THE 1.75-ACRE SPRING-FED SWIMMING POOL AT BALMORHEA STATE PARK PROVIDES VISITORS WITH A WELCOME OPPORTUNITY FOR REFRESHING RECREATION IN THE DESERT

72 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

THUNDERING HOOVES MEMORIAL FENCE GUADALUPE MTS. NP

•

Odessa

TOYAHVALE

•

Fort Davis

BIG BEND NP

Just south of the pool, on Highway 17 to Fort Davis, is the memorial fence. The associated Thundering Hooves nonprofit seeks to bring attention to hardships faced by wild and domestic horses. www.thunderinghooves.com

CALERA CHAPEL Mission Mary at Calera is located west of Toyahvale on Highway 290. The church, which served the area from around 1902 into the 1940s, was restored in 2002.

PHOTOS BY NETA RHYNE

he pool maintains a constant temperature of 72-76 degrees Fahrenheit, making it an ideal spot for swimming or scuba diving excursions year-round. Canals channel the water along Highway 17 into Balmorhea (pronounced BAL-moray), where a charming city park flanks the watercourse. Once a stagecoach stop between Fort Stockton and Fort Davis, the Toyahvale Post Office was established in 1891. The drive from Fort Davis on Highway 17 through the scenic Davis Mountains and Wild Rose Pass is one of the prettiest in the region.

TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL REGION DISCOVER THE ADVENTURE OF THE TRUE FRONTIER ... IT AWAITS YOU IN FAR WEST TEXAS

MUMUAYM/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

reathtaking mountains and highcountry hikes. Sheer river canyons and winding back roads. Exotic panoramas and star-studded nights. Adventure in the unspoiled West awaits you in the Texas Mountain Trail Region of far West Texas. See land as early man saw it, as the Apache and Comanche saw it, as ranching pioneers saw it. Visit Big Bend National Park, hike the spectacular South Rim Trail. Follow the Butterfield Overland Stagecoach route through Guadalupe Mountains National Park. Visit our charming mountain communities, where cowboys may still go to lunch in town on horseback. Catch a performance at El Paso’s 1930 Plaza Theatre, in the heart of the museum district. Visit adobe missions, still used as churches for local congregations. We invite you to plan your own adventure! Travel by car, horse, motorcycle, bicycle, RV or by foot — the scenery and the history is unparalleled. Let the Texas Mountain Trail be

your guide to discovery and adventure. Follow the historic 1960s driving route, the original “Texas Mountain Trail” to state and national parks, to the Big Bend of Texas, where the real West is still alive and ready for you to discover. Look no further than the rugged land of the Texas Mountain Trail Region, and you’ll see our history. Our state and national parks — “bucket list” destinations for most geologists — reveal a past of more than 600 million years of Paleozoic deep marine sediments, volcanic remnants and the bending, folding and uplifting of land. Dinosaurs roamed our land some 248 million years ago, and Big Bend National Park is one of the world’s paleontological jewels. In our Chihuahuan Desert climate, where there is water, there is the history of man. The Rio Grande gradually carved a deep notch in the mountains, creating a natural river crossing that the Spanish explorers named El Paso del Norte. The river also created glorious canyons in Big Bend National Park. Throughout the centuries, the climate grew hotter and the land drier.

To survive, wildlife and prehistoric huntergatherers adapted to desert conditions. Later, diverse groups — Native Americans and Spanish missionaries, soldiers and miners, ranchers and railroaders — passed this way in search of wealth, glory and new beginnings. The Texas Heritage Trails Program (THTP) is the Texas Historical Commission’s (THC) award-winning heritage tourism initiative. This economic development initiative encourages communities, heritage regions and the state to partner and promote Texas’ historic and cultural resources. These successful local preservation efforts, combined with statewide marketing of heritage regions as tourism destinations, increase visitation to cultural and historic sites and bring more dollars to Texas communities. This in turn supports the THC’s mission to protect and preserve the state’s historic and prehistoric resources for the use, education, economic benefit and enjoyment of present and future generations.

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 73

"Ghost Truck of Terlingua" by Tom Curry

74 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

WIDE O PE N

SPACES AN D BOLD

ART F

ar West Texas has always attracted those who crave distance — distance from noise, from crowds, from the relentless churn of the world. But the art that springs from this vastness isn’t an escape; it’s an engagement. It’s the result of painters, sculptors, photographers and restless wanderers standing in the desert wind and attempting to make sense of the silence. Out here, beauty feels earned. And the people who try to capture it — on canvas, in steel, on film — form one of the most distinctive creative communities anywhere in the state. From El Paso to the Rio Grande, from the ghost town of Terlingua to the polished white-box galleries of Marfa, the art of far West Texas mirrors the land: wide, surprising, uncontainable. We’ll take a journey through the Texas Mountain Trail region to explore the cities, people and events that make this region so unique. In El Paso, where the city’s own art scene has evolved into a cultural crossroads. The El Paso Museum of Art serves as an introduction to the creative forces shaping the borderlands, with collections ranging from European mas-

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 75

ters to Chicanx contemporary works. Just up the hill, the Rubin Center for the Visual Arts at UTEP pushes into more experimental territory, hosting boundary-testing exhibitions and residencies that spotlight artists working at the intersection of politics, performance and border identity. A few miles away, Galería Lincoln adds its own energy to the mix — a vibrant creative space known for championing local muralists, street artists and pop-up exhibitions that reflect the visual pulse of the city’s neighborhoods. Together, these spaces form a triad that captures El Paso’s artistic breadth, reminding visitors that art in far West Texas begins in a place where cultures meet, blend and reshape one another. As you head through the Trans-Pecos region, you’ll reach Valentine, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it town whose population is barely enough to field a pickup game. Yet Valentine’s influence on Texas art far outweighs its size, thanks largely to the late Boyd Elder, the enigmatic artist best known for his ornately painted skulls — some immortalized on album covers for the Eagles. Elder’s work, created from the bones and artifacts of the desert, balanced the macabre with the spiritual. He embodied the independent, slightly feral strain of creativity that defines the region. The Prada Marfa installation just up the road was created 20 years ago and remains one of the most photographed pieces of conceptual art in Texas, equal parts strange, iconic and tongue-in-cheek. Then there’s Marfa — the art town that launched a thousand think pieces. Even now, decades after Donald Judd planted his minimalist flag here, Marfa retains its eccentric gravity. The town’s mix of hardcore art devotees, ranchers, wanderers and weekenders creates a strange cultural chemistry. The Chinati Foundation remains the epicenter, its permanent installations scattered across the desert like mathematical equations carved in steel and concrete. Judd’s belief that art should be experienced in fixed spaces, under a predictable sky, feels tailor-made for this landscape. The Chinati Weekend — held each October — invites the public to explore open studios, special exhibitions, artist talks and cultural events tied to the legacy of the Chinati Foundation, transforming Marfa into a vibrant center for contemporary art and community gathering. But Marfa’s story has grown beyond its minimalist beginnings. Ballroom Marfa champions contemporary works that often lean experimental, ecological or conceptual, drawing artists from around the world. Local galleries mix international talent with regional voices, and on any given weekend, you might find

FROM LEFT: J. GRIFFIS SMITH, DOUG MORELAND

Big Brewster Mural, Alpine

76 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

Galeria Raices, Presidio

YOSDY VALDIVIA

Doug Moreland chainsaw art, Fort Davis

a sculptor from Mexico City discussing spatial theory in the same room as a ranch hand who stopped in because the lights were on. It’s that coexistence that keeps Marfa interesting. The town’s surrounding emptiness becomes part of the work, too. Every art experience here is colored by the expanse of land outside town limits — the way the sky feels too large, the way the light seems to make everything sharper. Artists often talk about how Marfa slows down time. And in that slowness, ideas grow. South of Marfa, Presidio offers a new compelling creative voice, Yosdy Valdivia, an artist whose gallery just opened in 2025. Valdivia’s paintings and mixed-media pieces draw from the desert’s muted palette, borderland stories and the tactile warmth of adobe architecture. Her work is both intimate and expansive — shaped by migration, memory and the quiet resilience of Presidio County. Her gallery serves as both exhibition space and community hub. Less than 30 minutes north of Marfa is Fort Davis. Along the main road through town you’ll notice a unique display of finished and stillin-progress wood art created by local musician, Doug Moreland. Moreland’s striking chainsaw sculptures capture the raw beauty and character of the region’s wildlife and landscapes, turning timber into dynamic, large-scale works of art. Together with galleries and seasonal exhibitions, artists like Moreland make Fort Davis a lively center for creative expression in the Big Bend area. Situated in northern Brewster County, Alpine serves an important role of the region’s art community — big enough to sustain a thriving creative scene, small enough that artists still wave at each other from across Holland Avenue. Anchoring that scene is the Museum of the Big BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 77

78 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

Big Bend region. His paintings often blend realism with abstract elements. Curry’s studio can be found on historic Murphy Street. Big Bend Gallery (121 W. Holland) showcases rotating exhibitions by regional artists, with an emphasis on West Texas landscapes, culture, and contemporary expressions of the borderlands. Operated by the Big Bend Art Council, the gallery also offers locally made art and gifts, serving as an anchor for the area’s creative community. A welcome new addition to the Alpine art scene is the 5th Street Gallery, run by Rachael Waller, an accomplished photographer. The gallery showcases works by local and regional artisans — ranging from fine art like paintings and photography to smaller handmade goods such as jewelry, candles and home decor — striking a balance between high art and

affordable giftable items. Waller’s photography is showcased alongside many of the region’s accomplished artists including Tom Curry, Chris Ruggia and Heather Haynes. Murals play a vital role in Alpine, reflecting the town’s history, culture and community spirit while enhancing its public spaces. One of the most visited downtown murals on Holland Avenue and 5th Street serves as the centerpiece, depicting scenes of local life, while a new night sky mural next to the visitor center captures the region’s famously expansive star-filled skies. Mural artists Stylle Read and Monty Welt have been key contributors, lending their distinctive styles to public works that celebrate the town’s culture and its connection to the surrounding high desert landscape. Each November, the town transforms

REBEKAH ANTROSIO

Bend at Sul Ross State University, one of the most important cultural institutions in West Texas. Its exhibitions span Native American artifacts, early settler history, contemporary regional art and rotating shows that spotlight the evolving identity of the borderlands. The annual Trappings of Texas, a celebration of cowboy gear and Western craftsmanship, is a beloved fixture, drawing artisans and collectors from across the country. But Alpine’s creative pulse stretches far beyond the museum. The town’s galleries showcase painters, photographers and sculptors who draw inspiration from the surrounding mountains and ranchlands. A good example is Tom Curry (tomcurryart.com), a painter and mixed-media artist, whose work is inspired by the high desert landscapes and the shifting light of the

during Artwalk, when stores stay open late for pop-up exhibits, musicians fill the streets, artists spread out under tents and thousands descend for a weekend that feels like a festival, family reunion and creative convocation rolled into one. East of Alpine and tucked under the rise of the Glass Mountains, Marathon has long drawn artists who prefer silence over spectacle. Two of its best-known creatives, E. Dan Klepper and James Evans, embody the town’s contemplative spirit. James Evans, whose photography studio sits just off the main drag, has spent decades documenting the people and landscapes of the Big Bend. His portraits — weathered, intimate, unhurried — have become some of the most iconic visual records of life in the region. Evans doesn’t romanti-

cize the desert; he listens to it, and that patience turns his work into something close to documentary poetry. Klepper’s work spans photography, sculpture and mixed-media installations, often using found materials and natural patterns to explore how humans inhabit open spaces. His images of the Big Bend region feel both stark and alive, capturing that peculiar tension between beauty and isolation. South of Alpine, toward the entrance of Big Bend National Park, lies Terlingua, a town that looks as if it were assembled from the remnants of several others that never made it. It’s part ghost town, part outpost, part creative refuge and its art scene ref lects that wild mixture. One of its most distinctive spaces is Earth & Fire Imports, a gallery blending handcrafted imports with regional creations. The place is a kaleidoscope of pottery, metalwork, folk art and desert-inspired pieces that feel as rugged and eclectic as Terlingua itself. Earth & Fire has become a natural stop for travelers who arrive expecting a ghost town and discover instead a vibrant swirl of creativity tucked among the old mining ruins. Artists here often work outdoors, letting dust storms and shifting light influence their process. Creativity in Terlingua is improvisational — shaped by scarcity, heat, eccentric personalities and the nightly drama of the desert sky. Art here feels alive because it feels lived-in, never detached from the landscape that birthed it. What ties all these places together isn’t a unified style or shared artistic philosophy. It’s the land itself. The desert isn’t a backdrop in far West Texas — it’s the collaborator, the antagonist, the muse. Light behaves differently here. Colors hide until sunset, then ignite. Distance bends perception. Silence sharpens it. Even the wind feels like it’s shaping something. Artists talk often about the desert effect — how the land strips away distraction and forces you to confront the core of what you’re trying to say. You can’t fake anything out here; the landscape won’t tolerate it, and that honesty infiltrates the artwork, whether it’s a meticulously crafted sculpture in Marfa or a hand-hewn frame in Marathon. The region is changing, with more visitors, more galleries, more attention, but the creative soul of far West Texas remains rooted in its most unchanging quality: vastness. Whether you’re standing before a Judd installation, flipping through James Evans prints, or stepping into Yosdy Valdivia’s warm-lit gallery in Presidio, the feeling is the same. The desert is in the room with you. It’s part of the work, and it always will be.

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 79

LAST LOOK

“The Desk” is a quirky and beloved landmark perched atop Hancock Hill near Sul Ross State University in Alpine, Texas. It began in 1979 when three students dragged a metal desk up the hill to find a quiet vantage point to study. Today, hikers make the roughly 1.8–2 mile round-trip hike from the campus dorm parking area — through rocky, loose-gravel terrain — to reach the desk. Once there, you’ll often find a weather-worn desk covered in graffiti along with a notebook tucked into one of its drawers, where visitors leave little notes, reflections, or memories — continuing a decades-old tradition. The payoff is more than just novelty: from the hilltop you get a sweeping 360-degree view over Alpine and the surrounding mountains and desert valleys, especially beautiful in sunrise or sunset light — making The Desk hike a must-do for anyone visiting the area. 80 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

JENA CAREY/VISIT ALPINE TEXAS

THE DESK ABOVE ALPINE