Gabriele Rausse Is goat the new beef, or is that just bologna? in the garden
Three new choices for lazy diners SPRING 2018
Say cheese
Taste is everything.
Taste and smell The new way to drink a cocktail
Fruit for thought Why strawberries are the best berries
BON APPÉTIT!
400+ ways to curb a craving
Clean, sharp, rustic, musty— a pile of dreamy dairy gives us all the feels
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*Sashimi 50¢ per piece extra. Limit one coupon per person per ticket each visit. Not valid with an other discounts. One coupon per table.
171 Seminole Court • Charlottesville • 434-978-1199 • www.lovesushiking.com
Celebrate the best of Virginia wine & food. Award-winning wines. Live music. Special events. Seasonal menus, locally sourced. Details at earlymountain.com. Come out to Early Mountain this Spring. Early Mountain is located in Madison, Virginia in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Photo: Tom McGovern
4 Knife&Fork Spring
TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S The Dish 13 Fruit forward
Strawberries are springtime AF.
15 Taste of home
Three local cooks you should know.
17 Seen and herd
Getting more goats on the menu.
“How-da” That’s the correct way to pronounce “gouda.” (Who knew-da?)
19 At the table
Antwon Brinson on the power of food.
21 New eats
The Virginia food scene evolves.
22 Food to you
Three new food delivery services.
23 See, smell, taste
More cheese, please! Well-rooted Meet a group of nuns making cheese for the soul, a buffalo mozzarella purveyor bridging the gap between Colombia and Charlottesville and a few cheesemakers who feel cautious about the term “terroir.” Plus, six ways to overindulge. The lactoseintolerant need not apply. PAGE 28
Often called the “father” of Virginia wine, Gabriele Rausse had a hand in many of the area’s best vineyards (beginning with Barboursville in the ’70s). Now, into the third decade of his eponymous winery, Rausse is settling into his role as a guide for up-andcomers. PAGE 47
Red Pump cocktails for all senses.
Half full
Fill up your glass at one of the area’s 50+ wineries, breweries and cideries. PAGE 52
Eat up
More than 400 restaurants to satisfy your craving—from cake to confit. PAGE 57
The Last Bite
You guessed it: extra cheesy goodness. PAGE 66
ON THE COVER: Still life with cheese. Photo by Morgan Salyer. COMMENTS? Email the editor at caite@c-ville.com.
10 tons
The nuns at Our Lady of the Angels Monastery make this much cheese per year. Spring Knife&Fork 5
Everyone Deserves a Slice of the Pie • Albemarle Fire & Rescue • Shelter for Help in Emergency • Blue Ridge Area Food Bank • Thomas Jefferson Food Bank • Ronald McDonald House • UVA Cancer Center • Make a Wish Foundation • Wildlife Center of Virginia • Caring for Creatures • Music Resource Center • ARC of the Piedmont • Habitat for Humanity • Salvation Army • Special Olympics • Mosby Foundation • Live Arts • SPCA • SARA • SOCA Free Kindness • H.O.W.S. with Every Order!
Charlottesville’s News & Arts Weekly P.O. Box 119 • 308 E. Main St., Charlottesville, VA 22902 (434) 817-2749 Advertising/Editorial Fax: (434) 817-2758 www.c-ville.com Facebook: facebook.com/cville.weekly Instagram: @cvilleweekly
Editorial EDITOR
Jessica Luck (x20)
We asked the staff: What cheese pleases you?
“It’s a very good day when my cheese drawer contains the holy trinity of local cheese: Twenty Paces ricotta, Caromont Farm chèvre and Our Lady of the Angels gouda.”
editor@c-ville.com KNIFE & FORK EDITOR
Caitlin White (x45) NEWS EDITOR
“Burrata at Tavola. It’s a perfect pillow of mozzarella accompanied by a generous smear of pesto.”
Lisa Provence (x14) ARTS EDITOR
Tami Keaveny (x18) ARTS & LIVING REPORTER
Erin O’Hare STAFF REPORTER
Samantha Baars (x40) COPY EDITOR
Susan Sorensen
Design and Production CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Bill LeSueur (x17) artdirector@c-ville.com EDITORIAL DESIGNER
Max March (x16)
“Once at a special event on the mall, Brasserie Saison was serving raclette (cheese melted directly on the wheel and scraped onto a baguette with a knife) with proscuitto. It was nuts.”
GRAPHIC DESIGNERS
Tracy Federico (x19), Henry Jones (x22), Lorena Perez “The new Parmesancrusted grilled advertising@c-ville.com “The goat cheese cheese from from Caromont ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Revolutionary Farms is divine. Spencer Dole (x30), Theressa Leak (x15), Soup.” I buy it at least three Katie McCartney (x36) times a summer
Advertising
from their stand at the City Market.”
PRODUCTION COORDINATOR
Faith Gibson (x25) MARKETING SERVICES DIVISION classifieds@c-ville.com
“Sartori Reserve Balsamic Bellavitano. It is a cheddarParmesan hybrid that is bathed in balsamic vinegar.”
FreshNever Frozen Dough
Erica Gentile (x43), Alex Patterson (x42), Cindy Simmons (x39), Beth Wood (x56)
Business PUBLISHER
Aimee Atteberry (x12) aimee@c-ville.com
“Fitzroy has a fantastic, ooey-gooey grilled cheese.”
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Debbie Miller (x28)
o et ad r M rde O
MARKETING MANAGER
Locally owned Fresh Toppings
Ray Sellers
Owner of Your Local Domino’s Pizza
6 Knife&Fork Spring
“Pimento cheese and Ritz crackers —the perfect combination of class and redneck.”
Anna Harrison (x51) DIRECTOR OF NEW BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
Kyle Robinson MEDIA & OUTREACH SPECIALIST
Caitlin Worrell A/R SPECIALIST
Nanci Winter (x33) “Made-to-order mozzarella from Fry’s Spring Station.”
CIRCULATION MANAGER
Billy Dempsey (x32)
“The bufala mozzarella at Lampo. Honestly, any cheese on the charcuterie at Lampo. They are all locally sourced, diverse and delicious.”
C-VILLE HOLDINGS
Bill Chapman, Blair Kelly KNIFE & FORK, a supplement to C-VILLE Weekly, is distributed regionally. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2018 C-VILLE Weekly.
Make it a lunchtime vacation, or enjoy an early evening dinner amidst the clubhouse of Birdwood Golf Course. A seat in this
UVA-inspired dining space sits adjacent to a full-length glass wall overlooking an outdoor terrace with beauteous Blue Ridge Mountain views. The renowned Boar’s Head culinary team works daily to bring fun and casually appetizing fare, providing an enticing excuse to just sit back and mingle with family and friends.
View our menu at www.BoarsHeadResort.com/Dining
Owned & Operated by the UVA Foundation
Located just 2 miles from UVA Grounds 410 Golf Course Dr. Charlottesville, VA Phone: (434) 293-6401
Spring Knife&Fork 7
AWARD-WINNING WINE MADE IN LOUISA COUNTY? THE SECRET IS OUT! VISIT FIFTY-THIRD WINERY AND VINEYARD.
O
ur winery offers an extensive list of premium virginia wines for an extraordinary tasting experience. We are open January through
April. Friday through Monday, 11am-5pm: May through December, 7 days a week, 11am-5pm. Complimentary music Saturday and Sunday afternoons. Come see for yourself and visit us in rural Louisa County, an easy drive from Charlottesville, Fredericksburg or Richmond. Check our website for directions and details, www.coopervineyards.com.
Great Wines, Friendly Staff, Great Experience.
8 Knife&Fork Spring
GATHER AROUND THE TABLE AT
Barracks Road
B. GOOD, BRIXX WOOD FIRED PIZZA, CHOPT, GREENBERRY’S COFFEE & TEA, HOTCAKES, J-PETAL, PANERA BREAD, PETER CHANG CHINA GRILL, POKE SUSHI BOWL, SMOOTHIE KING, ZOËS KITCHEN, ZINBURGER AND MORE!
barracksroad.com Emmet Street at Barracks Road, Charlottesville, Virginia
Spring Knife&Fork 9
15th Annual Charlottesville
FESTIVAL OF CULTURES Saturday, May 12, 2018 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Washington Park Free and open to the public
www.festivalofcultures.org
Organized by the Thomas Jefferson Adult & Career (TJACE) Program at Piedmont Virginia Community College
Harrisonburg, Virginia 64 South Mason
grapes don’t grow in ugly places ™ ®
Afton Mountain Vineyards 234 Vineyard Lane | Afton VA 22920 540.456.8667 | aftonmountainvineyards.com
Open Every Day 11: 00 am - 5:30 pm Groups of 7 or more by reservation only. 10 Knife&Fork Spring
The Dish TRENDS, TASTEMAKERS AND FOODS WE LOVE
Coming up rosy Make way for spring sweetness as the season’s bounty blooms Spring Knife&Fork 11
Relax . . . We have bacon And Breakfast All Day.
Down-Home Holistic • Fresh bread, veggies, meats & taters daily specials and the omelets of champions 313 2nd St SE • 434-295-9700 • Tues-Fri: 7 am-2 pm • Sat: 7 am-1:30 pm Sun: 8:30am-1:30pm Walk-Ins Welcome, Good For Kids, Take Out and Waiter Service
Listing Specialist •
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Best Winery Restaurants in America “.. the best wines of their vineyards, excellent cuisine, and idyllic settings.”
(540) 832 - 7848
12 Knife&Fork Spring
bbvwine.com
The Dish
A few dozen reasons to love strawberries (according to Daniel Perry)
I
t’s hard to choose the best thing about spring, but strawberries are certainly a strong contender. We asked Daniel Perry, the brains and hands behind Jam According to Daniel, to give us his two cents about this delectable fruit. Are strawberries a relatively versatile fruit? The great thing about strawberries is their juicy acidity. They’re just waiting to burst on the palate. Getting ripe strawberries to stand still as a tart topper, for any length of time, is a real challenge: As a pie filling they need a little help to thicken, but putting them over shortcake, pound cake, rice cakes or anything else dry and not over-sweet really lets strawberries shine. I think strawberries are most versatile because their acidity tempers their sweetness, and keeps the flavor from becoming cloying and lingering on the palate.
St. Andre); or a chèvre or a soft-ripened/ blooming rind goat cheese (whatever Caromont is making, most recently the Chabi). A bowl of Twenty Paces ricotta is my secret superfood. Top it with strawberries, olive oil, salt and pepper—you’ll want to leap tall buildings in a single bound. What’s your personal favorite way to eat strawberries when they’re in season? Out of hand, warmed by the sun, straight off the plant. The right berry will be a consistent dark red color from skin to core, not mushy but never crunchy. The incredible aroma gets lost in refrigeration, but they’ll go bad instantly without it, so once the strawberries get picked by someone else, the best part of them goes right out the window.
Strawberry all day Here are a few ways Daniel Perry says you can
What flavors pair best with strawberries? Balsamic vinegar, lemon juice and sugar (classic!), arugula, prosciutto, yogurt, pound cake. Try them with ricotta, arugula and prosciutto on toast.
utilize spring’s bounty.
What kinds of cheese pair well with strawberries? I tend to prefer milder cheeses with my fruit. Try ricotta or a milder triple-crème Brie (like
of lemon, a dash of salt instead of the sugar, some
Start with a bowl of sliced strawberries, then add
a tablespoon each of sugar and lemon juice to make a juicy dessert/breakfast addition, or just a great snack. Substitute balsamic vinegar for the lemon juice, and toss it with a salad. Use lime juice instead jalapeño, cilantro and onion, for fruit salsa, or use it as the base for a fruity caponata with grapefruit, melon and black olives.
AMY JACKSON
By Erika Howsare
Daniel’s favorite way to eat strawberries? Out of hand, warmed by the sun, straight off the plant.
Charlottesville takes its food scene seriously (maybe too seriously?), so Rachel Williamson made sure, when she started a line of teas grown from the herbs on her Nelson County farm, that she kept a sense of humor about it. Profaniteas, as she calls them, are sassed-up versions of her original herbal tea line (Tranquility becomes What the F*** Happened, Sleepy Bear becomes Chill The F*** Out), with a few new blends thrown in. Recommended: Calm the F*** Down, with lemongrass, lemon balm, anise hyssop and soothing peppermint. Find them at Feast!, Rebecca’s Natural Food and at the City Market on Saturdays.—Caite White
MORGAN SALYER
Sass tea
Spring Knife&Fork 13
blueridgeaaf.com | 434) 963-0669
14 Knife&Fork Spring
The Dish
The taste of home Can’t find the food that feeds your soul? These women took the tongs into their own hands.
Stephanie Murray of Ula Tortilla
Julie Vu Whitaker of Vu Noodles
AMANDA MAGLIONE
Transplanted from Vietnam to Waynesboro when she was a young girl, Julie Vu Whitaker grew up isolated from kids her age for being “different,” and family and food were her solace. She cared for others as a social worker for more than 20 years in Charlottesville before turning to her own dreams five years ago. “I decided I needed to conquer my fears and make a change, but I didn’t know how,” says Whitaker. She happened upon The Farm, a tiny grocery in the building where Lampo is now, and was
Julie Vu Whitaker
JEFFREY GLEASON
By Lisa Martin
enchanted. “It was this little, adorable place, and I realized how much I wanted to do something like that,” says Whitaker. “So I asked them, can I make noodles for you?” What began as a handful of noodle boxes sold at The Farm soon turned into a larger operation based out of her newly certified home kitchen, serving 13 vendors in town including Whole Foods Market and Martha Jefferson Hospital’s café. “The idea was that, as an ethnic person, if I wanted to just grab something and go, I could never find vegetarian or vegan Vietnamese food,” says Whitaker. “I wanted to make it and to share it.” When The Spot (as it’s known now) on Second Street opened up, she jumped at the tiny space. “I had always walked by and kept my eye on that place. I love downtown, and it was perfect.” There, Whitaker expanded her offerings to include a bahn mi, a Vietnamese sandwich she makes with tofu, along with the noodle bowls. The Spot has no kitchen, so she rents kitchen space at the nearby Jefferson School and ferries the food downtown. That arrangement has led to her newest venture, a sit-down place at the Jefferson School Café, where she’s added a vegetarian pho to the menu. “I really believe in growing organically, and it’s worked so far,” she says. CONTINUED ON PAGE 17
People often ask what is the meaning of “Ula,” and for Stephanie Murray and her husband, James Price, it’s part of what inspired the family’s business to begin with: their children, Uriah, Lovissa and Asarum. “We were basically homesteading—living off of our garden, hunting, raising sheep—and we needed a staple,” says Murray. They settled on corn, but weren’t satisfied with tortillas made from commercial masa (corn flour) stripped of nutrients by high-heat drying. A little research led Murray and Price to learn for themselves the ancient process of “nixtalamization,” which bathes the GMO-free field corn in a calcium hydroxide (limestone) water mixture to loosen the hulls and soften the corn. Using the fresh masa results in a more nutritious, whole-grain tortilla with an earthy flavor and toasty aroma. “We made the tortillas just for us at first, with a hand grinder, a single press and a griddle,” says Murray. When they brought a few dozen to the City Market in 2014 and sold out instantly, word spread via local news outlets about the project and within six months, Ula Tortillas were being carried in Charlottesville’s Whole Foods Market as well as at Feast!, Greenwood Grocery and other stores farther afield. Ula Tortillas are now available as far away as Wisconsin, though still made in small batches in Waynesboro by Price and two employees. “We never could have anticipated this,” says Murray, “but people really seem to love them.” Next off the press for Ula: natural corn chips.
Spring Knife&Fork 15
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The Dish
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 15
AMY JACKSON
“The food I cook is just like the Friday night meal at my house growing up,” says Barbie Brannock of her California-Mexican fare. In Redlands, California, a small orange grove town east of Los Angeles, neighbors would gather at Brannock’s adobe house to drink wine while the kids ate pomegranates and avocados from trees in the yard, and homemade tacos, tostadas and burritos were the ubiquitous main course. Young Barbie was in charge of frying up the chips and taco shells, which are a signature feature at her restaurant on Avon Street. A local artist and teacher, Brannock finally heeded the encouragement of her friends to take the plunge and “open the Barn” as her own daughter prepared to head off to UVA. “I love doing this,” she says. “It makes me so happy when people eat fresh, delicious food.” Her menu includes all of her childhood mainstays (paired with pork, beef, chicken or simply vegetarian) plus a chopped bowl that blends the best of everything. Though taco joints have gained in popularity in the past few years, Brannock believes her emphasis on crispy shells and lots of bright, contrasting ingredients makes hers stand out. “The California difference is that it’s not overly ‘saucy,’” she says. “I use lots of vegetables—jicama, radishes, cucumbers—along with guacamole, salsa and beans made fresh every day, so it’s not only about the meat and cheese. It’s a complete meal in your hand.” With no plans to expand (beyond perhaps a delivery bike), Brannock is happy in Belmont. “I have my regulars, plus new people come in all the time, and we’re catering now, too,” she says. “I get to cook the food I love for everyone.”
Barbie Brannock
JOHN ROBINSON
Barbie Brannock of Barbie’s Burrito Barn
Get your goat Parallel 38’s meatball dish is a carnivore’s dream: beef, pork and goat beneath oregano puttanesca.
Why the gamy meat could be disappearing from menus By Shea Gibbs
P
ork is passé. Beef used to be for dinner. And lamb is no longer exotic. Is goat the next frontier? “It’s a wonderful product—delicious, healthy and a cultural centerpiece,” says Clay Trainum, co-owner of Autumn Olive Farms. Indeed, Charlottesville foodies can find (or could find) goat in some delightful preparations around town—in the meatballs at Parallel 38, roasted whole for Ivy Inn’s exclusive Easter party and as a substitute for lamb in many Indian dishes at fan favorite Milan, from the gently curried Rogan Josh to the spicy Vin D’Alho. “Goat adds an extreme amount of flavor without using a ton of product,” Parallel 38 owner Justin Ross says. “Gaminess is a term people are afraid of, but it has a place when you balance flavors with it.” There is one thing keeping goat from overrunning area menus. It’s pricey on the retail side, according to Trainum. While Autumn Olive once traded heavily in the goat game, marketing its carefully raised Boer Bok animals as nutrient-dense and flavor-packed owing to their diet of invasive grasses and plants, the farm has since been priced out. Trainum says years ago goat ran about $2 per pound on the hoof (aka per live animal), meaning restaurants could in turn sell a reasonably priced entrée and make a decent profit. That all changed when the price spiked. With the animals coming in at nearly $4 per pound these days, Trainum says they’d cost him another $6 to $7
per pound to process, plus more for labor and transportation. “It’s priced out for restaurants unless they can charge in the $30 range for entrées, and that’s a tough sell,” he says. According to Trainum, the market price is driven primarily by folks in the Northeast, where the cultural experience of eating goat is worth the high tag for special occasions. For now, that’s keeping local restaurateurs like Ross from serving goat regularly. “It got too expensive,” Ross says. “The problem is now the farmers aren’t raising them and the market fell out. But if you put it out there, maybe it will come back.”
Milan’s Rogan Josh Curry In a bowl, blend 1/4 teaspoon hing, 1 1/2 tablespoons red chili powder, 3/4 tablespoon ginger powder, 1 tablespoon fennel seed powder and water into a watery paste. Put it aside. In a blender, mix 1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds, six green cardamom pods, four small cinnamon sticks and two mace spice pods into a coarse powder. Add boiled onion paste in this mixture. Heat 2 tablespoons ghee or oil in a pan, then add four black cardamom pods and 500 grams of mutton and roast it. Now add masala watery paste, a pinch of saffron, water and salt, then cover with a lid and cook at 175 degrees for 45 minutes. After 45 minutes mix in masala powder and cook it for 30 minutes. Add fresh cilantro on top.
Spring Knife&Fork 17
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434.220.5656 | sloanmanis.com | 415 Fourth Street N.E. Charlottesville, VA 22902
Cook and learn By Caite White
I
f the goal of Common House, the city’s private social club, is to help convene like-minded creatives, then it’s no wonder Antwon Brinson had been in its kitchen since the opening last spring. “Food for me has always been something that brought people together,” says the club’s executive chef. Originally from Niagara Falls, New York, Brinson can remember the smell of sweet potato pie, apple cobbler and pound cake hitting him as soon as he got to his grandmother’s house for the holidays (“The dessert table was right by the side door,” he says). It was those gatherings—bringing family together across the table—that he says made him want to become a chef, and what took him from the Culinary Institute of America to kitchens in the Virgin Islands, Hawaii, Palm Springs, San Francisco and, eventually, Charlottesville. At Common House, Brinson was able to showcase his penchant for farm to table cuisine, but recently shifted his focus to teaching. He’s
Mama’s 7UP Pound Cake Using a Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. tening, 1 cup mixer, cream together 1 cup shor four eggs, butter and 2 1/2 cups sugar. Add 1 tableone at a time, to the mixture. Add s vanilla spoon lemon juice and 2 teaspoon nate mixing extract to the bowl and mix. Alter er a in 3 cups flour and 1/2 cup 7UP. Butt flour and r suga with it dust then bundt pan, s, hour 1/2 1 for Bake ure. mixt in and pour it’s check with a toothpick to make sure . cool and ve remo Then cooked.
JEFFREY GLEASON
Chef Antwon Brinson forges community through food
The Dish
currently working with the city of Charlottesville to start a microprogram to teach life skills through the disciplines learned in the kitchen. “My goal is simple: to help people set a foundation in life and learn a trade while doing it,” he says. “If there is one thing I’ve learned over the years, that has stood true with every new location, it is that sometimes people don’t need direction, they just need guidance.”
Beer: Not really a beer guy, but if I had to choose, I would say Kona Brewing Co. Hanalei Island IPA.
Always on the bar: Bulleit, rye or Pyrat Rum Special-occasion drink: Moët & Chandon or Veuve Clicquot Energy source: Family and positive people Breakfast: Savory: sweet potato hash, smoked gouda, scrambled. Sweet: brioche French toast, salted caramel Chinese restaurant order: Chicken lo mein, shrimp fried rice Go-to comfort food: Buffalo wings Sandwich: Fresh focaccia, Duke’s mayo, soppressata and smoked gouda Unusual ingredient: Finger limes, jaboticaba Healthy snack: Skin-on almonds Unhealthy snack: Kettle-cooked salt and vinegar chips First food memory: My grandmother’s 7UP pound cake. Condiment: Spicy mustard, calypso hot sauce Chocolate: Valrhona or Lindt Grocery-store cookie: Girl Scout cookies Dessert: Sticky toffee pudding Ice cream flavor: Brown butter vanilla Brunch: sweet or savory? Savory all day
Salad bar toppings: Tomato, olives, banana peppers, onions
Kitchen aroma: Stocks! Always in the home fridge: Banana peppers (hot) Always in the pantry: Aged balsamic Bodo’s order: Everything bagel, ham, bacon, pepper jack
Cut of meat: Bone-in ribeye Fish: Swordfish (grilled) Vegetable: Roasted cauliflower Midnight snack: Chips. I love chips. Knife: Damascus steel, Santoku style, Togiharu brand Appliance: Gas range Cookbooks: The Escoffier Cookbook and Guide to the Fine Art of Cookery, The Silver Spoon, The Soul of a New Cuisine Mentors: Peter Timmins and Rich Rosendale Dream trip: Ethiopia Favorite food city: New York City, hands down Cooking clothes: Hedley & Bennett aprons, Mozo shoes, Gramercy chef coat Cooking music: Flamenco guitar or reggae Best meal ever: Kihachi Japanese Restaurant in Ohio (15-course tasting). Favorite cheesy dish: I’m lactose-intolerant, but if I had to choose, I would say Point Reyes blue cheese dip with salt and vinegar chips.
Spring Knife&Fork 19
real Real fresh Fresh Fish fish
With over 23 years of heritage and a huge selection of wines in store, The Wine Warehouse has become a destination of choice for savvy wine and beer buyers in The Mid Atlantic.
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• Wine and food-pairing advice available from expert staff. • Wine discounts starting at just six mixed bottles. • ALL ABOUT BEER MAGAZINE, July 2016, listed THE WINE WAREHOUSE AS ONE OF THE TOP THREE “Retail” PLACES TO BUY CRAFT BEER IN CENTRAL VIRGINIA • Special Orders welcome. • No hassle return policy. • Come Say Hi! • Our staff has approximately 60 plus years of combined experience. We taste and evaluate about 90% of the wine that we bring in the store. We are passionate yet unpretentious about our approach to the fine wine and craft beer we select. Ample on-site parking & centrally located in Charlottesville at 1804 Hydraulic Road and Route 29 (behind Meineke Muffler, in front of Kroger and across the street from Whole Foods.)
Hours: Mon.-Sat. 9:30-7:30, Sun. 12:30-5:30.
Seafood at West Main
(In the Main Market) (in the MainStreet Street Market) 416 VA22903 22903 416West WestMain Main Street Street Charlottesville, Charlottesville, VA retail:434 434296 2968484 8484 wholesale: 3474 wholesale:434 434296 296 3474 retail:
1804 Hydraulic Road • Follow us on Facebook, Call for more information: 434.296.1727 or email us at wineinc@aol.com
NEW House-roasted coffees are now available in store and online at GRITCOFFEE.COM/SHOP.
INTERESTED IN SERVING OUR COFFEE? VISIT: GRITCOFFEE.COM/WHOLESALE 20 Knife&Fork Spring
The Dish
The new Virginia cuisine Though the local food scene is shifting, quality remains its touchstone
A
s the state’s economy invests heavily in animal farming, agriculture and wine and beer production— and as chefs take advantage of the new bounty around them—is a new Virginia cuisine emerging? Local chefs say yes. “When I first started here, you’d have to seek out your local produce and go to the vendor to get it,” says Bizou sous chef Brett Venditti. “Now, we have two or three people come by each week with fresh local products. It spurs so much creativity when you have local people bringing you this huge bounty of food all at once. It gets your brain going, and you start thinking about how you might prepare it, even days before it arrives.” The state’s geography drives a big part of regional culinary identity. In Charlottesville, Bizou owners Vincent Derquenne and Tim Burgess pioneered a push toward local, high-quality ingredients with Metropolitain restaurant (now Bizou) on the Downtown Mall. “We started working with local ingredients very early at Metropolitain,” says Derquenne. But in the early 1990s, he says, the produce was different. “People are much more organized now, and now they plant more things restaurants need.” There is a new synergy as local farmers and restaurants get on the same page.
JOHN ROBINSON
By Erin Scala
When Bizou’s Brett Venditti first started, finding local produce required reaching out to vendors directly. “Now, we have two or three people come by each week with fresh local products,” he says.
standard,” says Gendreau. Locally farmed artisanal products can often cost more than mass-produced imported foods, thus in addition to a new demand for local products, customers are also “more willing to pay a premium for that experience.”
What came first?
Show your local
“Eggs were the first local product to make an impact,” says Derquenne. “Polyface Farm was the pioneer, and then many people moved toward a similar model.” But chefs and farmers aren’t the only ones driving the change. “People are a lot more concerned about where their food is coming from,” says Rachel Gendreau, general manager and sommelier at Bizou. “Much of that has to do with [Polyface founder] Michael Pollan’s influence,” and in particular, the impact of his book The Omnivore’s Dilemma, which denounces industrialized food production and touts locally sourced cuisine. “People are more savvy than ever before, and they are holding restaurants to a higher ethical
The shift Venditti describes—from having to seek out local produce to the grower now bringing them to the restaurant—is mirrored in the wine world, too. Sommelier Elaine Futhey remembers driving to Virginia wineries to bring back bottles for the wine list in the early days at C&O Restaurant. Today, local wines are more easily obtainable through organized distribution. That’s a good thing, because the savvier diners become as it pertains to the food menu, the more they ask for local wine. At Fleurie, for example, nearly 20 percent of wine bottle sales are local, which is an increase from about 5 percent a decade ago. And restaurants are proud to feature local food and wine.
“Everybody’s got their chalkboard showing which menu items come from where,” says Venditti. And each chef has their favorite local product to work with. “Trout from Rag Mountain,” says Derquenne. “We started with them at Metropolitain, and they’ve provided 28 years of a consistent product. And it’s delicious.” Venditti pays homage to the mushrooms from Bear Dog Farms, and to the okra from Wayside Produce. “At the height of the season, they were bringing us okra, these baby eggplants that grilled up so light, patty pan squash and, of course, heirlooms [tomatoes].” The Alley Light chef Robin McDaniel points to the unrelenting demand for prime ingredients as what defines Charlottesville’s culinary scene. “Charlottesville cuisine, as a whole, is much like its population: very diverse yet unified by a commitment to quality,” she says. As this new Virginia cuisine emerges, unique pairings of local food, wine and beer help anchor regional culinary identity that will—hopefully—define this state for decades to come.
Spring Knife&Fork 21
More to your door Three new food delivery options make it easy (easier?) to be lazy By Lisa Martin Too tired to go food shopping, and bored with the same old take-out pizza? Home delivery options abound to make sure the cupboard is never bare.
Shenandoah Produce Farms
Charlottesville’s N S D EWEST HOPPING
ISTRICT
Primary Eyecare I Extreme Pizza I Zabb I Basil Mediterranean th The Yard
149 5 Street Station Parkway Charlottesville, VA 22904 5thststation.com
Uber Eats
The Ultim ate Shop ping and Dining E xperienc e
Alamo Drafthouse Cinema I Panera Bread Fuzzy’s Taco Shop I Jersey Mike’s Red Mango I Timberwood Tap House Krispy Kreme Coming soon at
Chimm Restaurant, Basil, Extreme Pizza and more!
Uber Eats has arrived in Charlottesville—currently covering an area bounded by Carrsbrook, Pantops, Mill Creek and Ednam—allowing home bodies to order off the menu of over three dozen local eateries for a flat delivery fee of about $5. Whatever you’re craving, if the restaurant is open, it’s on its way with a few clicks from your Uber account. You’ll be given an estimated delivery time and can track your meal’s progress on the app’s map.
Hunter Gatherer Dinners Nature-lovers Leslie and Eric Benz wanted to make it easy for busy families to create quick, healthy meals after a long day, and their favorite game and fish recipes provided the inspiration. Hunter Gatherer Dinner Kits provide unique seasonings, healthy grains and hearty bean side dishes to pair with the customer’s favorite cut of meat or fish (not included). Eleven different options ranging from $10-13 can include a cedar plank or fresh vegetables from local farms (in their new Farm to Table kit), or can be completely vegetarian to suit any taste. Find the kits at Foods of All Nations and Whole Foods Market or online for home delivery.
Hunter Gatherer Dinners
HUNTER GATHERER DINNERS
22 Knife&Fork Spring
Lots of people subscribe to summertime CSAs and pick up their bags of produce each week, but Shenandoah Produce goes a step (or two) further. Available year-round via flexible subscription or single online orders, the Mt. Crawford-based company delivers fresh fruit and veggie boxes, locally raised beef, pork and chicken, plus a variety of organic bread, pantry and dairy items right to your Charlottesville, Crozet or Waynesboro doorstep. A $30 minimum order will fill your box with no delivery or membership fees.
The Dish
In good taste Red Pump’s perfumed cocktails help you come to your senses
“Food can affect you from a memory standpoint, like when smelling a red sauce reminds you of your grandma’s house,” says Red Pump Kitchen’s Kendall Moore. “We can do this with perfumed drinks, too.” Last fall, the downtown restaurant’s drink menu incorporated elements like sage-infused vodka and spritzes of cinnamon, clove and mint, and, says chief mixologist Moore, the seasonal trend will continue this spring with dried sunflower petal and dandelion infusions. Moore nibbles a viola leaf from the restaurant’s garden that “has a sugariness, almost like cotton candy,” and says he loves to incorporate the local terroir into his inventions. For a bit of textural diversity, Moore is experimenting with herb-infused bobas—caviar-sized vodka gel balls that pop when bitten. “We can take a delicious cocktail like a daiquiri and add a little mint, lime or viola flower explosion to it,” he says. Another idea of Moore’s is a Sazerac cocktail that substitutes the ice cube with a cold sphere of absinthe, bitters and brown sugar, stabilized with agar, that guests can eat with a spoon after finishing the drink. “Our focus is to use our own space and ingredients to make something that pays respect to the region and to the chef ’s food—something unique and inspiring.”—Lisa Martin
JEFFREY GLEASON
La Dalia is Red Pump’s take on a margarita: Espolòn tequila, dried rose, thyme, honey, Luxardo, lime and salted cucumber.
Spring Knife&Fork 23
Discover What’s New in History
Guided Tours Public Events Farm Animals Picnic Spaces
Lunch & Dinner I Patio Dining Private Event Space I Catering I Free Parking
Photography by Gene Runion
HIGHLAND.ORG INFO@HIGHLAND.ORG | 434.293.8000 Charlottesville, Virginia
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Spring Knife&Fork 25
SERVING LUNCH & DINNER DAILY Just 20 minutes South of Charlottesville in beautiful downtown Scottsville.
Tavern on the James, located in historic downtown Scottsville, is a near one million dollar renovated historic 100 year old building, just a short stroll from the scenic James River. The Tavern has been awarded numerous accolades including: Trip Advisor, 4.5 out of 5 stars, AAA Diamond rated, voted Best Outdoor Dining, Award Winning Menu Selections and voted one of the top Late Night Entertainment Destinations. Attentive service and generous portions, reasonably priced, attracts tourists from 100’s of miles around. Please join us at Tavern on the James, in beautiful downtown Scottsville, VA, Mon-Thurs: 11am-9pm, Fri-Sat: 11am-10pm and Sunday: 11am-8pm.
280 Valley Street Scottsville, VA 24590
(434) 286-3500
TavernOnTheJames.com
Come and enjoy our beers in the taproom or in our outdoor beer garden
James River Brewery offers a relaxed, friendly place to enjoy a flight or a pint of our award-winning beers. Try our River Runner ESB, which won 2016 Virginia Craft Brewers Cup Best in Show and Gold in British Bitter, or our Fluvanna Fluss Hefeweizen, the Gold Medal Winner at the 2015 Virginia Craft Brewers Cup and Best Wheat, Light Beer at 2017 Microfestivus. Experience down home warmth and community spirit in our taproom and beer garden along Mink Creek. Join us for games, trivia and live music on the weekends. Hours vary seasonally.
561 Valley Street (Historic Downtown) Scottsville, VA 24590 434-286-7837 JRBrewery.com
&
COMING SOON: NEW EXTENDED MENU!
SERVING ITALIAN "MASTER PIZZAS" SINCE 1997. Enjoy our Gourmet Pizza, Pasta Dishes, Stromboli and Tiramisu.
Take-out and Delivery available On The Mall with a $50 minimum order - Order Online Now gelato. espresso. pastries. delicious.
434.296.8555 | 317 EAST MAIN STREET, CHARLOTTESVILLE VA
Join us for Lunch and Dinner from 11am - 8pm Mon - Sat. & Sun 12 - 6pm
www.vitanovapizzapasta.com
A place for friends to gather and enjoy great wines Discover Your New Virginia Favorite Try our impressive lineup of wines, each carefully crafted and unique. Enjoy live music every Saturday evening, April through October Shop local cheese, eggs, produce, gifts & more in our Farm Store us for special Family, dog, and cycle friendly • Local cheeses, hummus, Join eggs, pies and more events year-round. Wedding and private event space • Live music year-round
“...Modern, tastefully designed and intended to inspire visitors to linger.” -TheVirginiaGrape.com 3304 Ruritan Lake Road Palmyra, Virginia www.cunninghamcreek.wine 434.207.3907
Tasting Room Hours: Sun 1-6 Mon, Thur, Fri 11-6 Sat (April-October) 11-9
Spring Knife&Fork 27
More cheese, please! 28 Knife&Fork Spring
Just bury us beneath this beautiful board from Feast!, please.
Raise your hand if you’ve ever “accidentally” forgotten to say when as the server was grating Parmesan onto your bowl of pasta. Or if you’ve ever taken a bite directly out of the wedge of brie you bought to kick off dinner. We’ll be the first to admit: The way (whey?) to our hearts is with a bunch of cheese. Spring Knife&Fork 29
1 6 2
7
5
8
3
TOM MCGOVERN
4 9
11 10
Now boarding So you wanna make a cheese platter? We asked Feast! cheesemonger Sara Adduci to create the board of her dreams (and ours). 1
Harbison from Jasper Hill Cellars (Vermont) “This gorgeous, spruce bark-wrapped beauty is a guaranteed showstopper at a party. Just throw a spoon in the top and serve with crusty bread or (gasp!) potato chips.”
2
Esmontonian from Caromont Farm (Virginia) “This firm, raw goat’s milk cheese is dense and bright, with just the right amount of goaty twang. Perfect with a drizzle of local honey on top.”
3
Manchego 1605 from Finca Sierra la Solana (Spain) “A gem in a sea of Manchegos. This raw sheep’s milk cheese is rich, nutty and tender. Try with a sip of dry sherry and a slice of Jamon Serrano.”
4
Monastery Gouda from Our Lady of the Angels Monastery (Virginia) “This is one of our go-to comfort cheeses. This semi-soft, cow’s milk round is easy-eating, mild, delicious and holy!”
5
Schnebelhorn from Käserei Butschwil (Switzerland) “Complex, rich, meaty, nutty, spicy and full of those little textural bits we call cheese diamonds. This is the cheese you want on your scrambled eggs.”
6
L’Amuse Signature Gouda from L’Amuse Fromagerie (Netherlands) “This two-year aged cheese has flavor for days, the crunchy bits you find in long-aged cheeses and a bit of butterscotchy sweetness.”
7
Commander Chicory from Twenty Paces (Virginia) “This big hunka blue from here in C’ville is a great one for folks who think they don’t like blues. Perfect crumbled on sweet tomatoes.”
8
Alp Blossom from Sennerei Huban (Austria) “Semi-firm, meaty, savory, with an undercurrent of herbal, floral magic.”
9
Sofia from Capriole Goat Cheese (Indiana) “A zippy little goat’s milk cheese with two parallel lines of vegetable ash through the center. I love this one with a glass of Sancerre.”
10
Essex Street Feta from M. Tastanis (Greece) “Softer in texture, and with a depth of flavor that goes way beyond just salty. I love this feta with Greek olive oil, fresh thyme and crusty bread.”
11
Domitilla from casArrigoni (Italy) “While this washed-rind cheese might look intimidating, it’s quite mild and sweet. Add some Castelvetranos and a bottle of Arneis for the win.”
30 Knife&Fork Spring
Praise cheeses! Crozet nuns make cheese to nourish the body and the soul By Erin O’Hare
T
he 12 sisters of Our Lady of the Angels Monastery in Crozet rise early. Very early. Quarter past three in the morning, to be exact, when the sky is dark and the hillside is quiet and still. It’s an hour when the heart and the mind are fresh says Sister Maria, one of the younger nuns at the monastery. It’s an hour when the heart and mind are still as the hillside, adds Sister Barbara, who has lived at the monastery since it was founded in 1987. Together, they follow the Rule of Saint Benedict, a set of rules for monastic life that emphasizes peace, prayer and work, written by Benedict of Nursia in the sixth century. The sisters’ morning routine consists of community prayer, then individual prayer, readings and Mass. They shower, eat breakfast, make their beds—regular morning things. Some mornings, they head to the cheese barn just down the hill from the church and make cheese, creamy gouda with a mild flavor that, among other things, makes a deliciously melty grilled cheese sandwich. The sisters at Our Lady of the Angels come from all over the world to live a modest, fulfilling life in Crozet. Sister Barbara grew up in Southern California and Sister Maria in Spain; they have a sister from Haiti and another from India, each of them called to religious life for a different reason. While the monastery receives generous donations from various folks in the community and from all over, the sisters have living expenses just like anyone else—groceries, toiletries,
doctor’s appointments, eyeglasses—and they support themselves with their cheese business. Plus, adds Sister Barbara, the profits allow them to “give something to the poor.” The gouda begins with a Mountain Milk Hauling delivery of whole milk that comes from grass-fed cows raised on a Mennonite farm over the mountain. “It’s really great milk,” says Sister Maria, who oversees the cheese production process. It’s visibly “creamy, beautiful milk.” The day after the milk arrives at the monastery, a few sisters walk down the hill to the cheese barn to begin the pasteurization process by 4am. “It’s a really nice hour to start pasteurizing milk,” Sister Maria says with a warm laugh that echoes through the hallway below the chapel stairs. Once the milk has been pasteurized—heated to a temperature that kills any harmful bacteria present in the milk—it’s cooled to between 88 and 90 degrees and transferred into the cheese vat, which Sister Maria says looks something like “a mini swimming pool,” industrialized. Then it’s time to add the cultures to the vat full of pasteurized milk. “I call them ‘my creatures,’ because they do a big job, so they deserve some respect,” Sister Maria says. Using paddles, the sisters stir the cultures into the milk before adding the rennet, a coagulant; the cultures rapidly raise the acidity of the milk by consuming the milk sugars (i.e. lactose) and converting it to lactic acid, disabling certain bacteria to help the rennet better separate milk into solid curds (used in the cheese) and liquid whey (a byproduct). Then there’s more stirring, separating, cutting, CONTINUED ON PAGE 33
On particularly prolific days, the sisters at Our Lady of the Angels Monastery might make 800 pounds of gouda, each 2-pound disc dipped in a protective red wax coating before being sold or shipped. PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHN ROBINSON
Spring Knife&Fork 31
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32 Knife&Fork Spring
over and over until the cheese mixture is of the right consistency—like that of Jell-O or custard. From there, they slowly add hot water to raise the temperature of the curds in order to make the curds more even in texture, a crucial step in the making of exquisitely smooth gouda. Then, the whey is flushed away and curds are cut by hand and packed into forms, pressed into approximately 2-pound discs and immersed in a salt brine before curing in a refrigeration room. The entire process takes a full day, and the sisters still have to pray, clean, cook and participate in various religious duties depending on the liturgical season. In the four days after the cheese is made, a special rind is hand-painted on each individual cheese, which allows the cheese to breathe as it ages. Before a cheese is sold or shipped, it’s dipped in a bright red protective wax coating. This is all pretty standard for gouda, a type of cheese that originated in the city of Gouda (pronounced “how-da,” not “goo-da”) in the Netherlands. But there’s a secret ingredient in the Our Lady of the Angels gouda: As the sisters make the cheese, they pray for the people who will later eat it. People often include prayer requests along with their cheese orders—for sick family members, for upcoming weddings or births. “We know about these things, and we know that each family, each person, has their own difficulties and struggles, and also dreams and hopes. So we pray for that. It’s our way of reaching out,” of connecting with others outside the monastery, says Sister Maria. Sister Barbara, who oversees the business end of things, estimates the sisters make cheese about 32 times per year, and on particularly prolific cheese-making days, they might make 800 pounds of cheese. When all is said and done, they produce around 20,000 pounds (10 tons) of cheese each year. About 75 percent of the sales are mail and online orders, while the other 25 percent comes directly from the monastery. Anyone can drive up to the church, ring the bell and a sister will come help with a purchase. Sister Barbara wants more local folks to know that while the sisters spend much of their time up on the hillside in Crozet, they venture into Charlottesville often—always while wearing their religious habits, so that they’re easy to identify—to buy groceries, visit the doctor and run other errands. And they welcome visitors at the monastery, too. Sister Maria imagines that many people believe that monastic life is leisurely. And while it’s a peaceful life and it’s a disciplined one—cheese-making, in particular, is hard work.
JOHN ROBINSON
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 31
Sister Barbara Smickel shows off the fromage of the nuns’ labor, a multi-step process that includes separating the curds and whey (below left), then pumping the whey out into the pre-press vat to act as a landing pad for the curds (below right).
It helps the nuns stay grounded and connected to the many people in the world who work hard for their earnings. “It’s not like we are a few feet above everyone else,” she says, adding that days are not given easily to anyone. “Our life is not something strange,” says Sister Maria. “It’s real. In the same way our cheese is real and good and creamy, so is our life.”
What makes it so gouda? The Our Lady of the Angels gouda is the perfect buy for all you Goldilockses of the cheese counters. “Easy eating, not too strong, not too mild, but just right,” says Feast! cheesemonger and cheese buyer Sara Adduci, adding, “it’s such a comfort cheese for us.” She especially loves telling her customers that this cheese is made by a group of nuns who use it to support their lifestyle.
Adduci suggests putting it on a cheeseboard paired with sweet
peach chutney from the Virginia Chutney Company and, if you’re tempted, a glass of Early Mountain Vineyards rosé. It also makes
JOHN ROBINSON
a slammin’ grilled cheese and adds a little extra creaminess to scrambled eggs.
The sisters have a gouda consumption method, too: Toast two
slices of bread, top the toast with a few slices of gouda and nuke the whole thing for about 20 seconds. “It’s irresistible,” says Sister Barbara. “It was made to melt!”—EO
Spring Knife&Fork 33
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Spring Semester at the Pippin Hill Cooking School Want to learn our secrets? Roll your sleeves up and come hungry to Pippin Hill’s Cooking School. Offered seasonally on Wednesday evenings, Chef Ian Rynecki offers both demonstration and handson classes, each with helpful pointers and tricks of the trade. G LU T E N - F R E E G LU T TO N Y ~ 4/ 1 8 C H E S A P E A K E B AY G O E S G O U R M E T ~ 5 / 1 6 S H E N A N D OA H S U M M E R ~ 6/ 1 3 S A U C E S 1 0 1 ~ 7/ 1 8 SANGRIA & CEVICHE ~ 8/15
Visit pippinhillfarm.com to Book 5022 Plank Road, North Garden, VA 22959 ~ 434.202.8063 ~ info@pippinhillfarm.com
34 Knife&Fork Spring
@pippinhillfarm #pippinhill
Let Byrd help you find the perfect kitchen! *Charlottesville Area Association of REALTORS
Byrd Abbott is an Associate Broker with Roy Wheeler Realty Company. Byrd was named the 2016 Sales Associate of the Year by the Charlottesville Area Association of Realtors. Last year, she was the company top producing agent for Roy Wheeler Realty and recipient of the 2015 Outstanding Associate award. In 2014, she was the company Top Residential Sales Associate. Byrd has been a successful Realtor since 1982, with over $322,000,000 in sales and listings sold. She understands both sides of the buying/selling process and the details involved in becoming a part of a new community. Byrd’s high level of performance is reflected in her dedication to the profession and her natural gifts for working with people.
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STOP & SHOP
LOCAL
CHARLOTTESVILLE MARKETS FARMERS CITY IN THE PARK MARKET 300 Meade Avenue
100 Water Street
May – October Wed. | 3 pm – 7 pm
April – October Sat. | 7 am – 12 pm November – December Sat. | 8 am – 1 pm
Delicieux.
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700 Rose Hill Drive, Charlottesville · 434.529.6118 · mariebette.com Spring Knife&Fork 35
MORE CHEESE, PLEASE!
THE KAMA PHOTOGRAPHY
The perfect recipe
TOM MCGOVERN
Queso cotija atop nachos at The Bebedero
Los quesos de Mexico Stuck on cheddar, American and Swiss? There’s a world of cheeses out there beyond the usual standards. In the kitchen at The Bebedero, chefs Cesar Gazpar and Yuliana Perez are busy cooking elegant Mexican fare that makes use of authentic cheeses from various regions south of the border. “We try to bring the best flavors of Mexico into our cuisine,” says Perez. We sat down with them to learn about a few of those flavors. We started with queso fresco, probably more well-known in this country than some other Mexican cheeses. Some might compare it to feta, says Perez, but its salt content is not at all overpowering and it’s essentially a mild white cheese with a slightly chewy texture and a friendly spirit. “We tend to use queso fresco in a lot of dishes because it’s very versatile,” says Perez—meaning it’ll never overtake a dish, but will only add complexity.
36 Knife&Fork Spring
Next up: cotija. This one, with origins in Michoacan, has a pitted, crumbly texture, a somewhat dry character and a flavor that’s sharp, salty, sweet and tangy all at once. It’s delicious. “We use this with things that are saucy, like an empanada with sour cream,” says Perez. “The saltiness plus the sourness balances really well.” Asadero cheese is stronger still—sharp and acidic—and has a color and texture more like cheddar. “We use this for cheese sauce or soup,” says Perez. “It has more elasticity”—a stringy structure that won’t turn runny. Its strong flavor pairs well with spices, like morita powder, a smoked sundried hot pepper. Another melting cheese is Chihuahua. In fact, it’s known as the “quesadilla cheese,” says Gazpar. It’s handy for making fried empanadas, too: anything that requires a cheese that will, mozzarella-like, hold its consistency when it melts— creamy, earthy and delectable.—Erika Howsare
Pimento cheese—that gooey spread traditionally made with American, mayo and pimentos— is a divisive topping. It can be too intensely cheesy, or turn off folks who don’t like olives or, as Brian Yoder experienced, is sometimes too soggy to even qualify as a spread. Still, says the Carousel Kitchen owner, “I felt like pimento cheese was an important enough Southern staple that it was worth my time to tweak and explore, as I do with most things I cook.” He started with aged cheddar, but eventually settled on a recipe with smoked gouda, fire-roasted peppers and smoked paprika and other herbs (no pimentos in sight!). “Chives add a bit of bright, fresh flavor to balance the smokiness,” Yoder says, “while wholegrain mustard and peppercorn blend give it a subtle bite without too much heat.” Yoder suggests using the spread, which he sells at the City Market and other local vendors, on sandwiches instead of mayonnaise, on a grilled cheese, on barbecue sandwiches or even fried in wonton wrappers. “The possibilities are nearly endless,” he says.—Caite White
Pimento DIY To make your own version of pimento cheese, Yoder says there are plenty of good recipes online to use as a starting point. He recommends using a quality aged or smoked cheese. Then add in little mayo (“less than the recipe calls for—you can always add more at the end”). As for the pimentos, “Traditional, jarred pimentos work fine,” he says, “but can be substituted with smoked, fire-roasted, hot or Spanish peppers.” Then try adding in other ingredients—caramelized onions, chives, green onions, Latin American spice blends, parsley, etc.
Of the land
Artisanal cheese expresses unique characteristics in unique ways By Shea Gibbs
C
BEYOND THE FLAVOR
an cheese taste of the land where it’s made? Absolutely, but local cheesemakers say to call that taste “terroir,” the term used in the wine world to describe the way environment affects flavor, and that might be a stretch. “It’s a dreamy term,” says Gail Hobbs Page, cheesemaker and owner of Caromont Farm. “A lot of people don’t really understand it.” Indeed, Kyle Kilduff, co-owner of creamery Twenty Paces, says only a few cheese producers in the nation truly express terroir in their finished product. Kilduff says place can show itself in cheese in two ways: 1) Through the local grasses the animals eat and 2) Through yeast and bacteria native to the region. But almost every artisanal cheesemaker uses some outside feed and cultures. “If you’re feeding the animals grain or hay that you brought in from all over the place, that’s a step away,” Kilduff says. “If you’re using commercial cultures, that’s another step away.” That’s not to say small batch cheese isn’t a unique or expressive product. Craft producers can influence their finished cheese in many ways to make it more interesting and unpredictable in flavor. “The big thing is artisanal cheese doesn’t need to express terroir to be good,” Kilduff says. “Beer doesn’t express terroir 99 percent of the time, but it still showcases quality ingredients and technique.” Goats fed primarily grass, as opposed to hay and grain, do tend to produce raw milk with a distinct flavor. Hobbs Page says when the spring grasses come in, the cheese produced is “lighter and cleaner” and can be used to produce a “lemony-like cheese.” In the fall and winter when grass is scarce, the resulting cheese is too creamy and dense. “The farm has its own little ecosystem going on,” Hobbs Page says. “We’ve learned the cheese takes time, and it has to do its own thing.” Caromont’s ecosystem extends to the aging process. When Hobbs Page first started aging cheese, for example, she was keeping her cave too clean. The cheese came out with a hint of chemicals. “We don’t do fancy aging. We do natural rind,” she says. “At first, I was so worried I was going to hurt somebody, so I would go in my cave every day and clean it. But the cheese never got a chance to ‘live’ and was very boring.”
Caromont Farm’s Gail Hobbs Page
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Bufala buffs With one foot in Charlottesville and the other in Colombia, Buf Creamery creates award-winning cheese By Nathan Alderman
I
n sunny pastures in the Andes mountains of Colombia, South America, herds of water buffalo gorge on grass. Here in Charlottesville, delicious, pillowy mozzarella di bufala from their milk sells at local Whole Foods and Kroger stores. Between those two points lie a hemisphere’s worth of obstacles. Charlottesville-based Buf Creamery has spent years finding clever ways to get around them. Water buffalo yield richer, creamier milk than cows, packed with more protein and nutrients. But their all-grass diet means they produce a lot less of it. Their skittish nature makes milking tricky. And the resulting milk and its products are delicate and quick to spoil. CEO Alejandro Gomez Torres founded Buf (pronounced “boof ”) in his native Colombia in 2009, started operations in 2010, but didn’t actually begin shipping out cheese until 2012. In those “two years of trial and error,” Torres says, he and the Buf team learned how to get more milk by
giving the buffalo a “spa day” before milking, complete with soothing showers. In temperate climates, grass-fed milk’s flavor and composition can change with the seasons; Buf mixed milk from herds on two sides of the same mountain, subject to alternating wet and dry weather, to get consistent organic, grass-fed milk year-round. Torres consulted Italian experts to find the right techniques and bacterial cultures that could turn high-lactose buffalo milk into lactose-free cheese with a lengthy 45-day shelf life. He en-
listed local chefs to make sure his product met their high standards. And Buf piggybacked on the existing infrastructure of Colombia’s established cut-flower industry to keep its milk and cheese properly chilled and spoilage-free from the farms to its factory to your plate. After two years of exporting cheese to Chile, Buf ’s mozzarella’s made it to the U.S. in 2014. Ever since, says Torres, “We’ve been growing a little bit every day.” Buf won best mozzarella at the 2016 American Cheese Society Competition, and scored No. 2 and No. 3 honors for ricotta and burrata in 2017, respectively. When establishing a U.S. headquarters, “Virginia was my first thought,” Torres says. He had worked at Brookview Farm in Goochland County after college, and the terrain around Charlottesville reminded him of home. “I cannot live without mountains,” he says. And while he’s back in Colombia now, supervising Buf ’s growth, he speaks as warmly of Charlottesville as he does of his buffalos’ mountain home: “We love to be a part of both worlds.”
Spring Knife&Fork 39
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MORE CHEESE, PLEASE!
For kids and everybody else
TOM MCGOVERN
“Universally popular” is how Josh Hunt, owner of Kardinal Hall, describes the mac‘n’cheese his beer hall serves. “At any table of four, it’s a good bet someone will order the mac ‘n’ cheese.” Perhaps the attraction lies in those happy childhood memories of a cheap, boxed version of the dish which, when you’re 7, tastes pretty awesome. But we’re talking about a whole different animal here, something that can speak to a grownup. The standby dish has evolved since Kardinal Hall opened in 2015. Currently, chef Willy Marques tells us, the three cheeses that make this mac sing are cheddar, smoked gouda and mozzarella. He sautées the cheddar and gouda with heavy cream, milk, garlic and a little mustard—“to give it acidity, so it’s not a one-note flavor,” says Hunt—before cooking the pasta al dente (to avoid mushiness) and mixing in the sauce. Then—only then—does he add the mozzarella. Heated under a broiler for half a minute in a cast-iron serving dish, it becomes a stringy delicious topping to complement the looser cheddar/gouda sauce below.—Erika Howsare
Formaggio from scratch
KEITH FREEMAN
In the thick of it If a cheese plate seems like something only fancy fromagiers (we made that up) have, these handmade spreaders strike the right balance between rustic and sophisticated. Forged from bronze or stainless steel, they’ll strike an artistic note on any cheese plate. $44 and up, blanccreatives.com
When Lampo Neapolitan Pizza opened in 2014, chef/owner Mitchell Beerens and his team couldn’t find fresh cow’s-milk mozzarella—fiore di latte—that met their standards. “So it was an easy decision,” Beerens says, “to make our own.” Beerens had learned the process—heat cultured mozzarella curd in a salt bath, then shape it by hand—while working for local restaurateur Vincent Derquenne at Bizou. Now, “We make fiore di latte almost every day,” he says, in 30- to 50-pound batches, the rough equivalent of one
to two infants, by weight. “The whole process takes about two hours from curd to cut cheese ready to top our pies.” With hundreds of pizzas served each day, good cheese matters, especially since Beerens estimates that the fiore di latte tops 70 percent of them. And he’s still looking for ways to ensure that Lampo’s cheese remains a cut above the rest. “We haven’t found a high-quality curd locally,” he says, “but would be stoked if that was available.”—Nathan Alderman
Spring Knife&Fork 41
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Grilled cheese, squared
MORE CHEESE, PLEASE! Gimme the scoop Like, it probably shouldn’t work? But this Esmontonian and dark chocolate gelato— made with the aged Caromont Farm goat cheese and shaved dark chocolate—at Splendora’s totally does. The brine from the cheese mixes with the bitterness of the chocolate, resulting in what owner PK Ross calls “a fancier pants version of stracciatella.”
TOM MCGOVERN
TOM MCGOVERN
It’s tough to make a bad grilled cheese sandwich, but here’s the thing: It’s also possible to make one that’s way, way better than what most of us manage at home. Exhibit A: the grilled cheese sandwich at Tilman’s Cheese and Wine, on the Downtown Mall. It looks unassuming, with its ciabatta-bread exterior almost completely hiding the cheesy insides from view. But bite into it and amazing things happen. First you break through the savory crust, robust yet near-flaky all at once. Then you encounter the cheese. “We played with different cheeses,” says Tilman’s co-owner Derek Mansfield. He and partner Courtenay Tyler eventually settled on a blend of aged Wisconsin cheddar and domestic Swiss— sliced, not shredded, so as to ensure even temperature throughout the sandwich, and packing a wonderfully forward and complex flavor. Tilman’s won’t reveal the true secret ingredient of the grilled cheese, namely the fat that coats the outside of the ciabatta before it goes into a panini grill (press for four minutes, Mansfield advises, then cut in half before pressing a minute or two more). But anyone can figure out that serving this thing with a cup of creamy tomato bisque puts it over the top. The soup is herby and has a slight kick, and drowning in it are garlicky croutons that contrast with the subtle flavor of the ciabatta. Oh, and you can add prosciutto to the sandwich, too, on request. Pure, sophisticated comfort.—Erika Howsare
Spring Knife&Fork 43
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Winemaker Gabriele Rausse has made Virginia home
621 STUDIOS
By Erika Howsare
Well Spring Knife&Fork 47
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BEYOND THE FLAVOR
W
hen Gabriele Rausse was a boy in northern Italy, he had a Saturday routine. Along with his family, he’d visit two small local farms and pick up shares of vegetables, fruits, eggs and chickens. It was an experience of connection. “There was a very precise schedule during the week on the use of everything that was brought home,” he remembers. For example, “On Monday was risotto with chicken liver.” After the chickens had been killed fresh on Saturday, he explains, “the liver wouldn’t wait too long.” The artistry of farm and kitchen, weaving together the production of food and its intelligent use, impressed him early, as did the self-sufficiency of the little farms. “I fell in love with agriculture,” he says, “because on each one of the farms there was everything—cows, chickens, orchards, vineyards, vegetables.” And: “A small amount of wine was made on the farm.” Fast-forward to his university years, when despite his father’s wish that he study law, he entered agricultural school. “At the time that was totally out of fashion,” he says. “Everybody said, ‘You will never find a wife.’” The irony, of course, is that today Rausse is a beloved icon of the wine industry here in central Virginia, where growing and making wine and food is about the hippest thing going. He’s routinely referred to as the “father” of the Virginia wine industry, because not only was he involved in its birth at Barboursville in the late ’70s, he’s mentored a number of other budding winemakers since then. For the hundreds of vineyards and wineries now operating in the commonwealth, he is a guiding light. But in 1976, when he arrived in Barboursville for what he thought would be a short sojourn, growing grapes in this region was seen as a foolish experiment. It took some real experimentation to figure out how to coax vinifera vines to survive and produce in the local climate, with its temperature swings and heavy humidity. The key went back to Rausse’s agschool roots—he had to perfect the grafting process before he could grow grapes reliably. He knew he was here to stay when he realized the freedom his life in Virginia offered. “I like to work all day, to be able to produce something,” he says. “[At Barboursville I thought,] I just work all day; I am in heaven. One heaven is enough.” He still nurtures that ethic today, says Eleanor Gould, his colleague at Monticello, where Rausse is now the director of gardens and grounds. “Gabriele never assigns a job to anyone that he wouldn’t do himself,” she says. “His favorite Jefferson quote is ‘It is neither wealth nor splendor but tranquility and occupation which bring happiness,’ and he truly lives by that precept.”
Gabriele’s favorite flavors SAGE It is one of my favorite herbs because at home it was used in many recipes. My favorite recipe is sage fried in butter, used as a sauce for noodles.
ROSEMARY My second favorite herb. In “potatoes as they go they go” (which means potatoes sliced with different thickness), rosemary is the most important herb.
EGGPLANT I love it because it reminds me of Sicily. Now I found my favorite eggplants at Afghan Kabob on Emmet Street. I am not sure how they are cooked but I think they are baked first and then cooked again in a pan.
ROSES I like risotto with rose petals. Of course roses taste like roses. ...How can you not like roses?
RISOTTO WITH RED WINE I don’t use red wine on the roses risotto, but I love risotto with red wine, mainly because, despite cooking the rice for 18 minutes, the results will be beautiful if the wine is beautiful.
NEBBIOLO It is one of my favorite wines, especially when it is more than 25 years old. There is some oxidation but Nebbiolo is able to preserve its characteristics: tobacco and leather.
VIOGNIER I love this wine with a touch of apricot flavor. I love it because Jefferson discovered it in the Côtes du Rhône more than 200 years ago and he said it was wonderful. ...But nobody paid any attention to what he said and, in the ’70s, when the variety of grapes was rediscovered, it was almost extinct.
Occupation, indeed. Rausse has kept busy. After launching Barboursville—now respected nationwide and named one of America’s top 50 vineyards by MSN.com—he went on to consult with and mentor dozens of other startup wineries, including White Hall, Blenheim, Afton Mountain and, notably, Kluge Estate. He’s been on staff at Monticello since 1995, and his own label, Gabriele Rausse Winery, entered the scene in 1997. He’s relished his role as guide, which has sometimes bred long-term connections. Years ago, he remembers, a new grower named Jim Piggott approached Rausse at a grape growers’ meeting. “He said, ‘I planted cabernet sauvignon and I have some grapes this year for the first time. Are you willing to buy and process them?’ I said, ‘You know, I’ve already got enough cabernet sauvignon, but thank you for asking.’ A week later the guy came back and said, ‘I’m sorry, but my wife said nobody’s allowed to touch our grapes but you.’” Rausse relented, bought and processed the grapes, and was so impressed with the results that to this day, his Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is made exclusively with Piggott’s grapes. Rausse’s current role at Monticello goes well beyond wine—he oversees vegetable gardens, orchards and woodlands in addition to the vineyards that replicate some of the varietals planted by Jefferson. It’s full circle, in a way—no one was a greater champion of the small, self-sufficient farm, the kind of place Rausse fell in love with as a child, than Jefferson. Direct involvement of a grower with the final product, Rausse says, breeds quality, and he’s long believed that Americans were ready for a quality wine. “If a guy only makes the wine, of course he will do whatever he can with what he gets,” he says. “If he does both [growing and winemaking] he will want to grow the best possible grapes and then make the best possible wine.”
Spring Knife&Fork 49
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Cat ering HOTCAKES
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Wineries
Albemarle CiderWorks What started as an orchard for rare and heirloom apples grew into a popular area cidery. Tastings and tours are available for $3 per person. 2550 Rural Ridge Ln., North Garden. 297-2326.
Afton Mountain Vineyards Try the Albarino, a limited-production, estate-grown white only available in the summer. Tastings are $7 per person. 234 Vineyard Ln., Afton. (540) 456-8667. Ankida Ridge Vineyards A Sumerian word that means “where heaven and earth join,” Ankida marks the spot—at 1,800' on the eastern slope of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Visit the downtown tasting room (209 Second St., 989-7420, 22brixwineroom.com), too. 1304 Franklin Creek Rd., Amherst. 922-7678. Autumn Hill Vineyards Only open four weekends per year, Autumn Hill produces eight varietals. Tastings are $7 per person. 301 River Dr., Stanardsville. 985-6100. Barboursville Vineyards Routinely listed on national “best winery” lists, Barboursville is a true destination—for the wines and the scenery. Open for tastings ($5, includes glass). 17655 Winery Rd., Barboursville. (540) 832-3824. Blenheim Vineyards Established in 2000 by owner Dave Matthews (yep, that Dave Matthews), Blenheim’s timber-frame tasting room looks down into the barrel room. Tours and tastings are $5 per person. 31 Blenheim Farm. 293-5366. Bluestone Vineyard Award-winning smallbatch wines in the Shenandoah Valley. Open daily for tastings. 4828 Spring Creek Rd., Bridgewater. (540) 828-0099. bluestonevineyard.com Brent Manor Vineyards Sample wines from the vineyard and a selection of nearby Virginia wines. Tastings are $9 per person. 100 Brent Manor Ln., Faber. 826-0722. Burnley Vineyards One of the oldest vineyards in the Monticello Viticultural Area. Tastings are $2 per person. 4500 Winery Ln., Barboursville. (540) 832-2828. Cardinal Point Vineyard & Winery Try the Quattro—a blend of Riesling, Gewurtztraminer, Viognier and Traminette—at this spare but relaxing spot. Open for tours and $5 tastings. 9423 Batesville Rd., Afton. (540) 456-8400. Chestnut Oak Vineyard Single-varietal, single-vineyard wines from Petit Manseng to Chardonnay. Weekend tastings from noon-6pm. 5050 Stony Point Rd., Barboursville. 964-9104. Cooper Vineyards There’s something for everyone—including sangria—under Cooper’s LEED-certified roof. Open for tastings daily. $10 per person. 13372 Shannon Hill Rd., Louisa. (540) 894-5253. Cunningham Creek Winery Once a working cow farm, this winery offers Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Gris, Cab Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Open for tastings daily. $8 per person. 3304 Ruritan Lake Rd., Palmyra. 207-3907. DelFosse Vineyards & Winery Try the reds at this off-the-beaten-path spot 30 minutes from Charlottesville. $5 for a classic tasting, $10 for reserve. 500 DelFosse Winery Ln., Faber. 263-6100. DuCard Vineyards A successful grape-growing business bloomed into what’s now this boutique winery. Tastings are $6 per person and are credited back with a two-bottle minimum purchase. 40 Gibson Hollow Ln., Etlan. (540) 923-4206. Early Mountain Vineyards Beautifully appointed facility, with a terrace for mountain and vineyards views while sipping. 6109 WolftownHood Rd., Madison. (540) 948-9005. First Colony Winery Adopt a row of grapevines and you’ll get to learn how to prune and participate in its harvest. $5 tastings. 1650 Harris Creek Rd. 979-7105. Five Oaks Vineyard Hybrid vines producing Chambourcin, Sabrevois and more. 4574 Belle Vista Dr., Barboursville. 242-9445.
Blue Mountain Brewery Well-liked brewery serves up its local drafts, plus light fare for lunch and dinner. 9519 Critzers Shop Rd., Afton. (540) 456-8020. Blue Toad Hard Cider Large outdoor space, classic pub food and, of course, hard cider. 9278 Rockfish Valley Hwy., Afton. 996-6992.
Bold Rock Cidery Virginia’s largest (and growing!) cidery. Free tours and tastings daily. 1020 Rockfish Valley Hwy., Nellysford. 361-1030. Castle Hill Cider Enjoy a glass of Terrestrial on the octagonal porch or explore the grounds. Open for tastings daily. 6065 Turkey Sag Rd., Keswick. 296-0047. Champion Brewing Company Beer-focused kitchen offerings, plus five ales on tap. 324 Sixth St. SE. 295-2739. $. Devils Backbone Brewing Company Nelson’s hip brewpub—award-winning craft beers, lunch and dinner. 200 Mosbys Run, Roseland. 361-1001. Hardywood Pilot Brewery & Taproom Charlottesville’s version of the beloved Richmond brewhouse. 1000 W. Main St. 234-3386. James River Brewing Co. There’s only beer here. 561 Valley St., Scottsville. 286-7837. Potter’s Craft Cider Handcrafted cider out of Free Union, with a city tasting room. 209 Monticello Rd. 964-0271. Pro Re Nata Brewery A farm brewery and food truck offering up to 12 craft beers and live music. 6135 Rockfish Gap Tpke., Crozet. 823-4878. Random Row Brewing Co. No food (but there are food trucks!), but nearly 12 beers on tap. 608 Preston Ave. 284-8466. Reason Beer A 30-barrel production facility, plus a tasting room with rotating craft brew on tap. 1180 Seminole Trail, Suite 290. 260-0145. South Street Brewery Brews and food from the folks at Blue Mountain. 106 W. South St. 293-6550. Starr Hill Brewery Largest independent craft brewer in Virginia with 16 rotating beers on tap. 5391 Three Notched Rd., Crozet. 823-5671. Three Notch’d Brewing Company No food, but seven Three Notch’d beers on tap. 946 Grady Ave. 293-0610. Wild Wolf Brewing Company An outdoor “biergarten,” robust menu and up to 12 brews on tap. 2461 Rockfish Valley Hwy., Nellysford. 361-0088. Wood Ridge Farm Brewery “From the dirt to the glass” brewery 165 Old Ridge Rd., Lovingston. 422-6225.
Distilleries Ragged Branch Distillery Virginia straight bourbon whiskey with views of Ragged Mountain. 1075 Taylors Gap Rd. 244-2600. Silverback Distillery Rye whiskey, monkey gin and Beringei vodka. 9374 Rockfish Valley Hwy., Afton. (540) 456-7070. Spirit Lab Distilling Single-malt whiskey and amaro behind a red door. 1503 Sixth St. SE. 218-2605. Virginia Distillery Co. Single-malt whiskey from the Blue Ridge. 299 Eades Ln., Lovingston. 285-2900. Vitae Spirits Award-winning rum and gin in a hip spot for sipping. 715 Henry Ave. 270-0317.
52 Knife&Fork Spring
DESIGN PICS/CHRIS PARKER/CHRIS PARKER/NEWSCOM
Breweries and cideries
Barboursville Vineyards Widely regarded as the standardbearer for wine in our region, Barboursville Vineyards was first established in 1976 at the hands of Gianni Zonin, who’d acquired the property expecting to create a winery (despite all evidence to the contrary). Now, more than 40 years later, Barboursville is still thriving and garnering recognition. Tour the estate with a glass of Octagon—the winery’s celebrated blend of estate-grown Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot— in your hand, then stay for dinner at Palladio Restaurant, where chef Spencer Crawford blends the best of Virginia and northern Italian cuisine. Tastings are $5. 17655 Winery Rd., Barboursville. (540) 832-3824.
Flying Fox Vineyard Named after the weathervane on the vineyard’s main building, Flying Fox boasts a limited production of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Viognier and Pinot Gris. Tastings are $5. Highway 151 and Chapel Hollow Road, Afton. 361-1692. Glass House Winery Don’t miss the tropical conservatory next to the tasting room—or the handcrafted chocolates! Tastings are $5 per person, $8 with an etched wine glass. 5898 Free Union Rd., Free Union. 975-0094. Grace Estate Winery This 50-acre vineyard on scenic Mount Juliet Farm produces 14 varietals. $9 tastings. 5273 Mount Juliet Farm, Crozet. 823-1486. Hill Top Berry Farm & Winery The bread and butter at this medieval-themed winery is the authentic honey meads. Try the Dragon’s Blood. Open for tours and tasting. 2800 Berry Hill Rd., Nellysford. 361-1266. Horton Vineyards Fruit and dessert wines abound at this winery just outside of Barboursville. Tastings are $5. 6399 Spotswood Trail, Gordonsville. (540) 832-7440. Jefferson Vineyards Grab a bottle of Meritage and get a spot on the tree deck for a picturesque afternoon. Tastings are $10. 1353 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy. 977-3042. Keswick Vineyards Dog-friendly tasting spot located at the historic 400-acre Edgewood Estate. Tastings daily. 1575 Keswick Winery Dr., Keswick. 244-3341. Kilaurwen Winery Artisanal wines near Shenandoah National Park. 1543 Evergreen Church Rd., Stanardsville. 985-2535. King Family Vineyards Frequent Governor’s Cup award winner, King Family is also the site of polo matches every Sunday from Memorial Day weekend to mid-October. Tastings are $7, and you get to keep the glass! 6550 Roseland Farm, Crozet. 823-7800.
Knight’s Gambit Vineyard More than five acres of Petit Verdot, Pinot Grigio, Merlot and Cabernet Franc located on a rolling hillside near Whitehall. 2218 Lake Albemarle Rd. 566-1168. Lazy Days Winery A boutique winery that’s home to local festivals like the Virginia Summer Solstice Wine Festival. Open for tastings. 1351 N. Amherst Hwy., Amherst. 381-6088. Loving Cup Vineyard & Winery A certified-organic vineyard and winery tucked away in the hills. Tastings are $5. Open Friday-Sunday, 11am-5pm (April-December). 3340 Sutherland Rd., North Garden. 984-0774. Lovingston Winery A densely planted 8.5 acres yields wine of high-quality fruit. (Word to the wise: Leave your pups at home; there are two here already!) Free tastings. 885 Freshwater Cove Ln., Lovingston. 263-8467. Meriwether Springs Vineyard The postand-beam event space is just the beginning —there are also two ponds, a three-acre lake and beautiful Ivy Creek here, which flanks the property. Open for tours and tastings. 1040 Owensville Rd. 270-4299. Michael Shaps Wineworks Sample Virginia wines in the spare but stylish tasting room, as well as the Premiere Cru Burgundies, grown and bottled in France by owner Michael Shaps. $10 for a tasting of 12 wines. 1781 Harris Creek Way, 296-3438; 1585 Avon St. Ext. (Wineworks Extended), 529-6848. Mountain Cove Vineyards Even better with age? The first batch of wine here was made in 1976. Open for tours and tastings. 1362 Fortunes Cove Ln., Lovingston. 263-5392. Mountfair Vineyards You’ll find small-batch, blended red wines at Mountfair, just 20 miles west of Charlottesville. Open for complimentary tastings. 4875 Fox Mountain Rd., Crozet. 823-7605.
Moss Vineyards Fifty-two acres with views of the Blue Ridge, including nine under vine with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Viognier grapes. Open for tastings Friday-Sunday. 1849 Simmons Gap Rd., Nortonsville. 990-0111. Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyards Try a glass of the Merlot Reserve while having lunch at the Farm Table & Wine Bar. Tastings are $6 per person. 5022 Plank Rd., North Garden. 202-8063. Pollak Vineyards Located between Charlottesville and Wintergreen, this 98-acre farm produces 27 acres of French vinifera. Open daily. 330 Newtown Rd., Greenwood. (540) 456-8844. Prince Michel Vineyard & Winery Sip a glass of Chardonnay in Prince Michel’s tasting room, above the barrel cave and tank room. Tastings and self-guided tours. 154 Winery Ln., Leon. (540) 547-3707. Rappahannock Cellars West Coast wine on the East: A desire to raise their 12 children in Virginia led Rappahannock’s owners to relocate from California. Open year-round for tours and $8 tastings. 14437 Hume Rd., Huntly. (540) 635-9398. Rassawek Vineyards No tasting room; these folks grow grapes for other wineries. 6276 River Rd. W., Columbia. (804) 396-3098. Sharp Rock Vineyards Once a working family farm, Sharp Rock is now a vineyard, winery and bed and breakfast. Tastings and self-guided tours available. 5 Sharp Rock Rd., Sperryville. (540) 987-8020. Stinson Vineyards The cozy tasting room opens to a quaint patio for sipping awardwinning wines and noshing on farm-fresh snacks. Tastings are $7, $10 per person for groups of 10 or more. 4744 Sugar Hollow Rd., Crozet. 823-7300. Stone Mountain Vineyards A rustic winery offers panoramic views of the surrounding counties from 1,700'. Tastings and tours available. 1376 Wyatt Mountain Rd., Dyke. 990-9463. Thistle Gate Vineyard Handcrafted wines aged in French and American oak. Tastings available. 5199 W. River Rd., Scottsville. 286-7781. Trump Winery Virginia’s largest vineyard, Trump (yes, that Trump) offers 200 acres of French vinifera varieties. Tastings are $10 for seven wines. 3550 Blenheim Rd., 984-4855. Valley Road Vineyards Vineyard and tasting room at the head of the Rockfish Valley. Tastings are $10 per person for six wines or $15 for a tasting. 9264 Critzers Shop Rd., Afton. (540) 456-6350. Veritas Vineyard & Winery Award-winning wines at the foot of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Bring a picnic basket! Tastings are $5. 145 Saddleback Farm, Afton. (540) 456-8000. Weston Farm Vineyard & Winery Small, family-owned winery. Must love dogs: Charlie and Suzie, the owners’ French bulldogs, often roam the property. $5 tastings and you keep the glass. 206 Harris Creek Rd., Louisa. (540) 967-4647. White Hall Vineyards Call ahead to reserve a cheese plate from the neighboring monastery to enjoy with your $5 tasting. 5282 Sugar Ridge Rd., White Hall. 823-8615. Wisdom Oak Winery Make your way down the long gravel road to get to an intimate tasting room and outdoor picnic area. Tastings and tours are $5 per person and $10 per person for groups of eight or more. 3613 Walnut Branch Ln., North Garden. 984-4272.
A small, family owned vineyard and winery producing world class wines from estate grown French vinifera. From Charlottesville: I-64 west to exit 107 (Crozet), left onto Route 250 for about 3 miles, right on Route 796 (Brooksville Road), right on Newtown Road, Pollak Vineyards is 0.5 miles on left
540.456.8844 • www.pollakvineyards.com 330 Newtown Road, Greenwood VA
Spring Knife&Fork 53
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54 Knife&Fork Spring
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Spring Knife&Fork 55
Horton Vineyards
639 9 S P OT S WO O D T R A I L • G O R D O N S V I LLE VA 2 29 4 2 540-832-7440 • hortonwine.com • Open 10am-5pm Daily Check out Facebook for all the upcoming events
BREADWORKS BAKERY & DELI
BreadWorks is a division of WorkSource Enterprises which has provided job training and employment to persons with disabilities since 1967.
923 Preston Avenue ❖ Charlottesville, VA ❖ 434-296-4663 Monday-Friday 7:30 AM - 6 PM ❖ Saturday 8:30 AM - 2:30 PM www.breadworks.org
56 Knife&Fork Spring
Great food - great mission since 1994 Newly renovated space since 2017!
WORKSOURCE ENTERPRISES
Restaurant Guide Restaurant price ranges $/Under $10, $$/$10-25, $$$/$25+
Asian Cuisine Asian Express Cheap and cheerful, plus delivery. 909 W. Main St. 979-1888. $. Bamboo House Korean and Chinese entrées served with an aesthetic flair. 4831 Seminole Trail. 9739211. $$. Bang! Asian fusion tapas, martinis to die for. 213 Second St. 984-BANG. $. Bangkok ’99 Traditional Thai. 540 Radford Ln. #700, Crozet, 823-5881; 2005 Commonwealth Dr., 974-1326. $$. Beijing Station Chinese favorites on the Corner. 104 14th St. NW. 234-3877. $. Café 88 Cheap dim sum, bento boxes and soups. Lots of veggie offerings. Preston Plaza. 293-9888. $. Chen’s Chinese Take-out or eat-in. Inside Annie Land Plaza. 73 Callohill Dr., Lovingston. 263-8865. $. Chopsticks Express Straight-up no-nonsense Chinese place. 1841 Seminole Trail. 975-4380. $. Doma Korean Kitchen Korean-style barbecue, kimchi and more. 701 W. Main St. (703) 336-3918. $. East Garden From chow mein to General Tso’s. Pantops Shopping Center. 295-2888. $. Giddy’s Good Fortune Take Away Counter-service spot with Vietnamese, Chinese and Thai. 4916 Plank Rd., North Garden. 245-0332. $. Ginkgo Chinese Restaurant Sichuan classics from a Peter Chang-trained chef. 104 14th St. NW #8. 872-9386. $/$$. Got Dumplings Pork, chicken, shrimp and chive, tofu—fast and hot. 1395 W. Main St. 244-3040. $. Hibachi Grill & Supreme Buffet Watch chefs prepare food hibachi-style. 1185 Seminole Trail. 973-8889. $$. Himalayan Fusion Curries, tandoori and other faves, plus a lunch buffet. 520 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 293-3120. $$. Hong Kong Restaurant & Take-out Favorite Chinese entrées down Avon way. Southside Shopping Center, off Avon Street. 245-8818. $. J-Petal Japanese crêpes and Thai ice cream. Barracks Road Shopping Center. 234-3332. $. Jade Garden Chinese essentials, plus twists like Hawaiian-style Triple Delight. 1139 Fifth St. SW. 979-3512. $. Kabuto Sushi and Teppanyaki Beautifully presented fresh sushi and teppanyaki, plus soups and desserts. 1836 Abbey Rd. 973-1585. $. Korean House Traditional Korean specials for modest prices. Cheap lunch specials, too. 221 Carlton Rd. 244-0736. $$. Kuma Sushi Noodle & Bar Pan-Asian restaurant and karaoke bar. 12 Elliewood Ave. 328-2741. $. Kyoto A mix of Japanese and Chinese meals— teppanyaki to bento boxes. Rio Hill Shopping Center. 923-8889. $. Lemongrass Vietnam meets Thailand. Veggie options and delivery, too. 104 14th St. NW. 244THAI. $$. Lime Leaf Thai The serene dining room is a tad more upscale than the average Thai place. Rio Hill Shopping Center. 245-8884. $/$$. Love Sushi King All-you-can-eat sushi for $11.98 (lunch) or $17.99 (dinner). Seminole Square Shopping Center. 978-1199. $.
Maharaja Spicy Indian specialties. The lunch buffet’s a deal. Seminole Square Shopping Center. 973-1110. $$. Marco & Luca’s Noodle Shop Quality meets quantity for under $5. York Place, Downtown Mall, 295-3855; 107 Elliewood Ave., 244-0016; 176 Zan Rd., no phone. $. Maru Korean BBQ & Grill Traditional Korean food with modern additions. 412 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 956-4110. $. Mi Canton Chinese and Latin cuisine. Think pupusas with a side of beef lo mein. McIntire Plaza. 296-8661. $. Milan Indian Cuisine Authentic Indian cuisine with all the standards; daily lunch buffet. 1817 Emmet St. 984-2828. $$. Ming Dynasty Chinese food with many vegetarian options. Low-fat menu available. 1417 Emmet St. N. 979-0909. $. Monsoon Siam Curries, pad Thai and other entrées, plus an outdoor patio. 113 W. Market St. 971-1515. $$. Noodles & Company Fast-casual chain with noodles, soups and sandwiches. The Shops at Stonefield. 984-9621. $. Now & Zen Bite-sized gourmet Japanese and sushi spot. 202 Second St. NW. 971-1177. $$. Oriental Express Chinese standards plus sushi. 3440 Seminole Trail, Suite 107. 974-9988. $. Pad Thai Homestyle Thai cooking from an experienced chef. 156 Carlton Rd. 293-4032. $$. Peter Chang China Grill Authentic Sichuan cuisine from a renowned chef. Barracks Road Shopping Center North Wing. 244-9818. $$. Poke Sushi Bowl Hawaiian-inspired poke on the Corner. 101 14th St. NW. 328-8833. $. Red Lantern Chinese cuisine by the pint or the quart. 221 Carlton Rd. 979-9968. $. Royal Indian Restaurant One of the best-kept secrets in town. Seminole Square Shopping Center. 973-2288. $$. Sakura Japanese Steak and Seafood Great teppanyaki seafood and Japanese-style steaks. Hollymead Town Center. 872-0099. $$/ $$$. ShangHai Wide array of regional selections, plus a lunch buffet. 312 Pantops Shopping Center. 984-2688. $. Shun Xing Szechuan, Hunan and Cantonesestyle dishes. Forest Lakes Shopping Center. 9749888. $. Silk Thai Authentic Thai in a cozy house setting. 2210 Fontaine Ave. 977-8424. $. Taiwan Garden Basic assortment of Chinese fare in basic surroundings. 2171 Ivy Rd. 295-0081. $. Tara Thai Serves up affordable Thai faves, with multiple meat, fish and veggie options. Barracks Road Shopping Center. 984-9998. $$. Taste of China Chinese favorites on 29N. Albemarle Square Shopping Center. 975-6688. $$. Taste of India Delicious Indian fare and a lunch buffet under $9. 310 E. Main St, Downtown Mall. 984-9944. $$. Tea House Chinese-American and authentic Chinese weekly specials. 325 Four Leaf Ln., Crozet. 823-2868. $. Ten Super swanky second-floor spot serving modern Japanese. 120B E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 295-6691. $$$. Thai ’99 II Similar food as its numerical predecessor but with radically different interior. In the Gardens Shopping Center. 964-1212. $. Thai Cuisine & Noodle House Traditional Thai food, noodle dishes and vegetarian specials. 2005 Commonwealth Dr. 974-1326. $$.
Thai Fresh Thai take-out with great prices. 106 Fifth St. SE. 249-5291. $.
Coupe’s Pub food with a popular late-night scene. 9 Elliewood Ave. 282-2141. $.
Tokyo Rose Long-standing landmark serves sushi and sashimi. 2171 Ivy Rd. 296-3366. $$.
Double Horseshoe Saloon American food, plus billiards and occasional live music. 1522 E. High St. 202-8714. $.
Urban Bowl Noodle soups and rice bowls. 111 W. Water St., York Place. 984-0095. $. Vu Noodles Four kinds of homemade noodle bowls from a take-out window. 110 Second St. NW; 233 Fourth St. NW. $. Yuan Ho Great lunch deal before 4pm. 117 Maury Ave. 977-7878. $.
Draft Taproom Sixty self-serve taps with a large, diverse selection of craft beer styles. 425 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 422-5901. $. Fardowners Restaurant Local ingredients liven up pub fare like sliders and sandwiches. 5773 The Square, Crozet. 823-1300. $/$$.
Zzaam Fresh Korean Grill Tacos, rice bowls, noodle bowls and more—Korean-style. 1232 Emmet St. 284-8980. $.
Firefly Craft beer, tasty eats and arcade games. 1304 E. Market St. 202-1050. $.
Bakeries
Joe’s Pool Hall & Sports Bar Pool, darts, poker and ’cue. Scottsville Shopping Center, Scottsville. 286-7665. $.
Albemarle Baking Company Get your ABCs of baked goods here. 418 W. Main St., in the Main Street Market. 293-6456. $. BreadWorks Breads, desserts and a full deli with sandwiches, soups, etc. Preston Plaza, 296-4663; 2955 Ivy Rd., 220-4575. $. Carpe Donut Well-loved donuts, hot beverages and locally brewed kombucha. McIntire Plaza. 202-2918. $. Chandler’s Bakery Cakes for any occasion, plus cookies and brownies for your sugar fix. Rio Hill Shopping Center. 975-2253. $. Cocoa & Spice Handcrafted chocolates and confections. 506 Stewart St. (973) 489-7789. $. Crust & Crumb Bakery Fresh-baked bread and pastry specials, plus a light menu. 1671 W. River Rd., Scottsville. 960-4444. $. Duck Donuts Outer Banks donut spot with madeto-order treats. Stonefield Shopping Center, 8231960. $. Found. Market Co. Bakehouse and mercantile specializing in cookies—eat them there or take dough home. 221 Carlton Rd., Suite 2. $$. Great Harvest Bread Company Sandwiches, sweets and bread baked from scratch every day. McIntire Plaza. 202-7813. $. MarieBette Café & Bakery French pastries for breakfast, more pastries (and a dine-in menu) for lunch. 700 Rose Hill Dr. 529-6118. $. Moon Maiden’s Delights From-scratch vegan and gluten-free pastries. York Place, Downtown Mall. 995-9233. $. Nestlé Toll House Café Coffee, ice cream, cookie cakes and other sweet treats from the chocolatey chain. 5th Street Station. 328-8393. $. Pearl’s Bake Shoppe Classic and specialty cupcakes, plus desserts and other sweet treats. 711 W. Main St. 293-2253. $. SweetHaus Homemade cupcakes and specialty candy at this sweet shop on West Main. 2248 Ivy Rd., 270-2944; 929 Second St. SE, 422-2677. $. The Pie Chest Homemade breakfast and hand pies, plus by-the-slice options. 119 Fourth St. NE. 977-0443. $.
Bars and Grills Beer Run Rotating beers on tap, six-packs and wine to take away and three meals daily. 156 Carlton Rd., Suite 203. 984-2337. $$. BJ’s Restaurant and Brewhouse American fare—plus pizza and award-winning, handcrafted beer. 3924 Lenox Ave. 422-5170. $$. Blue Tavern & Sports Bar Food offerings include 55 flavors of chicken wings. 8315 Seminole Trail, Ruckersville. 985-3633. $$.
Hurley’s Tavern Twenty taps and 20 TVs. Rivanna Plaza. 964-2742. $.
Kardinal Hall Bocce and beer garden. 722 Preston Ave. 295-4255. $. Lost Saint Diminutive cocktail bar below Tavern & Grocery. 333 W. Main St. 293-7403. $. Miller’s A classic Downtown bar, with pub grub and live music every night. 109 W. Main St., Downtown Mall. 971-8511. $$. Mountain Grill Farm to table at Carter Mountain Orchard. 1435 Carters Mountain Trail. 977-1833. $$. Mountainside Grille Everything from Cobb salad to peanut butter and chocolate chip pie. 375 Four Leaf Ln., Crozet. 823-7080. $$. Rapture Contemporary American with soulful accents, weekend brunch, purple pool tables and a dance club. 303 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 293-9526. $$. Rockfish 151 Pub Irish-American grub, with daily specials. 9278 Rockfish Valley Hwy. 9666992. $. Sedona Taphouse Five hundred craft beers and an all-American menu. 1035 Millmont St. 2962337. $$. Stoney Creek Bar & Grill Distinctive dining at Wintergreen’s Stoney Creek Golf Course. Wintergreen Resort, Rte. 664, Nellysford. 325-8110. $-$$. Texas Roadhouse Steaks, ribs and from-scratch sides. Albemarle Square. 973-4700. $$. The Biltmore Large portions and a popular drinking scene. 16 Elliewood Ave. 202-1498. $. The Livery Stable Hole-in-the-wall (er, basement) spot Downtown. 120 Old Preston Ave. 202-2088. $/$$. The Pub by Wegmans Pub fare for lunch and dinner, plus beer, wine and signature drinks. 100 Wegmans Way. 529-3265. $$. The Smokehouse Grille Locally sourced barbecue, plus a seasonal farm-to-table menu. 515 Valley St., Scottsville. 286-4745. $$. The Southern Café & Music Hall Downtown music venue opens its café before shows. 103 S. First St. 977-5590. $. The Villa Sports Bar & Ultra Lounge Live music, private parties, Mexican food and dancing. 917 Preston Ave. 962-6575. $$. The Virginian Cozy Corner mainstay with an 80plus-year history. 1521 University Ave. 984-4667. $$. The Whiskey Jar Saloon-style Southern spot with, naturally, more than 90 varieties of whiskey. 227 W. Main St., Downtown Mall. 202-1549. $$. Timberwood Grill All-American eatery and after-work watering hole. 3311 Worth Crossing. 975-3311; Fifth Street Station (Timberwood Tap House), 234-3563. $$. CONTINUED ON PAGE 61
Spring Knife&Fork 57
5391 Three Notch’d Road Crozet, Virginia 22932 434-823-5671 TAP ROOM HOURS: TUES - FRI: 12PM - 9PM | SAT: 11AM - 9PM | SUN: 12PM - 6PM
Live Music & FOOD TRUCKS FREE BREWERY TOURS SATURDAY & SUNDAY
24 rotating taps
T
WHAT TO DO
Ready, set, eat
Mark your calendar—these spring food events will fill you up. City Market Opens April 7, 7am-noon (Saturdays) Corner of Water and Second streets
Every Saturday through October 27, head to the parking lot at the corner of Water and Second streets to take in all the things that are great about Charlottesville: artisan goods, community and, of course, food and drink. Get there early to grab a taco!
To market, to market
Tom Tom Founders Festival
We mentioned the opening date of Charlottesville’s City Market, but there are others in the area, too.
April 14, 10am Charlottesville City Market
Montpelier Wine Festival May 5 and 6, 11am-5pm Montpelier, 11407 Constitution Hwy. (Montpelier Station)
Sample wines from more than 15 different Virginia wineries, plus specialty food vendors, live music, wagon rides and a hat contest. $525. montpelierwinefestival.com
Taste of Monticello Wine Trail May 12, 1-5pm Sprint Pavilion
Taste wines from 25 local wineries while listening to live entertainment. A VIP ticket provides catered food and the opportunity to sample exclusive wines from each winery. $35 general admission, $80 VIP. monticellowinetrailfestival.com
Crozet Farmers Market Saturdays, 8am-noon. May-October. Parking lot of Crozet United Methodist Church (1156 Crozet Ave.). Earlysville Farmers Market Thursdays, 4-7pm. May-October. Rivanna Church parking lot (corner of Earlysville Forest Drive and Earlysville Road). Farmers in the Park Wednesdays, 3-7pm. June-September. Meade Park (corner of Meade Avenue and Chesapeake Street).
SKYCLADAP.COM
Tom Tom Founders Festival hosts plenty of food-focused events (check out the Farm to Table Restaurant Week April 9-15), but we’re most excited about the Iron Chef Competition. Watch six sous chefs use $60 and 30 minutes at the City Market to create a dish that is 100 percent locally sourced. The winner takes home the title of Charlottesville’s Iron Chef. tomtomfest.com
Know Good Beer & Bourbon Spring Festival May 12, 2-6pm IX Art Park, 963 Second St. SE
Try unlimited 2- to 4-ounce pours of ales, lagers, stouts, IPAs, ciders and more, along with samples of dozens of bourbons. Your ticket price also gets you a souvenir sampling glass. Get tickets early—this event often sells out. $50-80. know goodbeer.com
Gordonsville Famous Fried Chicken Festival May 19, 11am-5pm 200 E. Baker St. (Gordonsville)
This 12th annual event, in the “chick-
en leg center of the universe,” features a pie contest, face painting, artisans and a whole lotta fried chicken. Enter the fried chicken cook-off for a chance to win $100. Free ($5 for wine garden). townof gordonsville.com
Virginia Summer Solstice Wine Festival June 23, 11am-6pm Lazy Days Winery, 1351 Amherst Hwy. (Amherst)
Local wines, live music on two stages, arts, crafts and local food—your ticket gets you all that, plus a souvenir glass for this ninth annual event. $20-25. summersolsticefestival. com
Fluvanna Farmers Market Tuesdays, 2-6pm. April-October. Pleasant Grove Park (1735 Thomas Jefferson Hwy.). Forest Lakes Farmers Market Tuesdays, 4-7pm. Late AprilOctober. South Recreation Facility (1650 Ashwood Blvd.). Greene County Farmers Market Saturdays, 8-11am. June-September. Greene County Technical Education Center (10415 Spotswood Trail, Stanardsville). Nelson Farmers Market Cooperative Saturdays, 8am-noon. April-October. 3079 Rockfish Valley Hwy. (Nellysford). Scottsville Farmers Market Saturdays, 8am-12:30pm. May-October. Scottsville Pavilion (125 Fleet St.).
Spring Knife&Fork 59
Savor the Love in Every Bite WEDDINGS w HOLIDAY PARTIES CONFERENCES w SMALL, INTIMATE EVENTS UVA Approved Vendor
Signature Items: Chicken Bites MacCups and MacBowls Sweet Potato Dumplings A TASTE OF HOME SOUTHERN CUISINE
www.atohsoutherncuisine.com 434-465-9164
NATURAL, FRESH ORGANIC INGREDIENTS Homemade Sauces Made in-House (descriptions of Sauces on menu for allergies)
Gluten-Free Options Barracks Road
1104 Emmet St. N. 11 am- 9 pm
On the Corner
101 14th St. NW 11 am - 10 pm During UVA session 11 am - 9 pm During Winter and Summer Breaks
60 Knife&Fork Spring
Restaurant Guide CONTINUED FROM PAGE 57
Tin Whistle Irish Pub Traditional Irish pub Downtown. 609 E. Market St. 979-4279. $$. Trinity Irish Pub Hand-carved wooden bars, exposed brick and an upstairs balcony directly across from Grounds. 1505 University Ave. 295-7100. $. West Main Pub Residence Inn’s bar and appetizer spot. 315 W. Main St. 220-0075. $. World of Beer More than 500 different beers from more than 40 countries. 852 W. Main St. 970-1088. $$.
Breakfast Joints Bluegrass Grill and Bakery Unpretentious breakfast and lunch spot, beloved by local weekenders. Glass Building, Second Street. 295-9700. $.
Five Guys Two locations for local carnivores. Barracks Road Shopping Center, 975-GUYS; Hollymead Town Center, 963-GUYS. $.
The Wolf’s Fixins Barbecue Barbecue, burgers and beer. 344 Stoneridge Dr. N, Ruckersville. 242-1551. $.
Fox’s Café Daily specials, burgers, dogs and dinners. 403 Avon St. 293-2844. $.
Timberlake’s Old-fashioned soda fountain, sandwiches galore, burgers and dogs. 322 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 295-9155. $.
Holly’s Deli & Pub Southern food, live music and beer. 1221 E. Market St. 282-2713. $. Jack Brown’s Beer & Burger Joint Classic burgers, daily specials and bras on the chandelier. 109 Second St. SE. 244-0073. $. Jak’n Jil The working man’s Bodo’s: foot-longs and fries. 1404 E. High St. 293-7213. $. Korner Restaurant This greasy spoon offers all the usual suspects. Daily lunch special. 415 Ninth St. SW. 977-9535. $. Lazy Parrot Backyard BBQ The Lazy Parrot Grill’s sister restaurant. Pantops Shopping Center. 244-0723. $/$$.
Cavalier Diner Breakfast all day, plus burgers, subs and Italian standbys like lasagna. 1403 Emmet St. 977-1619. $.
Lumpkins Classic burgers, salads, fried chicken and foot-long hotdogs. 1075 Valley St., Scottsville. 286-3690. $.
Farm Bell Kitchen New-Southern cuisine with local farm-to-table ingredients. 1209 W. Main St. 205-1538. $$.
Luv’n Oven Gizzards, livers, fries and shakes. 162 Village Sq., Scottsville. 286-3828. $.
International House of Pancakes Standard breakfast fare. Long lines on the weekends. Rio Hill Shopping Center. 964-0830. $.
Martin’s Grill Delicious hamburgers, veggie burgers and fries. 3449 Seminole Trail, in the Forest Lakes Shopping Center. 974-9955. $.
Sam’s Kitchen All-day breakfast, plus American and French dishes at this local institution. 1863 Seminole Trail. 964-9488. $.
Me2 Market and Eatery Delish barbecue and fresh baked treats just 3.5 miles east of Monticello. 2243 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy. 297-2201. $.
The Pigeon Hole Cozy all-day breakfast spot with fresh-squeezed juices and stone-ground grits. 11 Elliewood Ave. 977-4711. $.
Mel’s Café Southern soul-soothing food. A longtime favorite on West Main. 719 W. Main St. 971-8819. $.
The Villa American breakfast all day. 129 N. Emmet St. 296-9977. $.
Mission BBQ Pulled turkey, pork and chicken, plus racks by the bone. The Shops at Stonefield. 260-7740. $.
The Well House Cafe Coffee, tea, smoothies and pastries. 118 10 1/2 St. NW. 973-0002. $. Waffle House It’s breakfast ’round the clock. 1162 Fifth St. SW, 296-5010; 495 Premier Cir. on 29N, 975-5860. $.
Burgers, BBQ, Dogs and Diners Ace Biscuit & Barbecue Breakfast and lunch spot serving up soul food by the biscuit. 711 Henry Ave. 202-1403. $. Barbeque Exchange Hickory-smoked and slow-roasted pork, plus hushpuppies, pie and pickles. 102 Martinsburg Ave., Gordonsville. (540) 832-0227. $. Blue Ridge Pig For connoisseurs of barbecue, the Pig is the place. Rte. 151, Nellysford. 3611170. $. Boylan Heights Burger spot and popular bar serves organic Virginia beef. 102 14th St. 9845707. $. Brother’s Bar & Grill The same barbecue folks have loved for years. 2104 Angus Rd. 293-6333. $. Buck Island BBQ Pulled pork, spare ribs, fried chicken. 4842 Richmond Rd., Keswick. 872-0259. $. Burger Bach New Zealand-inspired gastropub. The Shops at Stonefield, 328-2812. $$. Chicken Coop Chicken, barbecue and a variety of sandwiches. 40 Front St., Lovingston. 263-7818. $. Citizen Burger Bar Gourmet burgers with highquality meat, plus a large collection of beers. 212 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 979-9944. $$. Doodle’s Diner Country cookin’ from breakfast to burgers. 1305 Long St. 295-7550. $.
Moe’s Original BBQ Alabama-style pulled pork smoked in-house. 2119 Ivy Rd. 244-7427. $.
Tip Top Breakfast, lunch and dinner with Italian and Greek specials. 1420 Richmond Rd., on Pantops Mountain. 244-3424. $. Wayside Takeout & Catering Famous Old Virginia fried chicken and barbecue sandwiches. 2203 Jefferson Park Ave. 977-5000. $. White Spot Burgers with tradition at this popular Corner spot. 1407 University Ave. 295-9899. $. Wild Wing Café Sports bar features wings and beer, plus live music, karaoke, trivia and poker. 820 W. Main St. 979-WING. $/$$. Wings Over Charlottesville Wing delivery spot that encourages patrons to eat like a caveman. 2029 Ivy Rd. 964-9464. $$. Zinburger Wine & Burger Gourmet burgers, fries, milkshakes and, of course, plenty of wine. Barracks Road Shopping Center. 244-2604. $$.
Coffee Places with Kitchens Atlas Coffee Get a cup of coffee or an espresso roasted by Shenandoah Joe. 2206B Fontaine Ave. 970-1700. $. Baine’s Books & Coffee Books, music, film, pottery, musical instruments, food and, of course, coffee. 485 Valley St., Scottsville. 286-3577. $. C’ville Coffee Co. Well-established café, with a kids’ corner and library to keep wee ones entertained. 1301 Harris St. 817-2633. $. Calvino Café Espresso, panini and smoothies, plus breakfast on Sundays. In the Main Street Market. 293-5696. $.
Moose’s by the Creek American favorites, plus mounted moose antlers for photo ops. 1710 Monticello Rd. 977-4150. $.
Carpe Café Breakfast, lunch and snacks inside Studio IX. 969 Second St. SE. 260-3803. $.
Nelly’s Roadhouse American and Mexican menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner. 2815 Rockfish Valley Hwy., Nellysford. 361-1400. $$.
Dunkin’ Donuts/Baskin-Robbins Coffee and donuts. 305 Rivanna Plaza Dr., Suite 101, 2449998. $.
Olive’s Grill Food for the working man. Most items under $10. 8839 Seminole Trail, Ruckersville. 990-2634. $.
Greenberry’s Java and specialty drinks, plus fresh baked goods. Wi-Fi available. Barracks Road Shopping Center, 984-0200; in Alderman Library on UVA grounds, 243-8961. $.
Otto’s All-American faves and daily specials at your service. Order at the counter and sit outside if it’s warm. 325 Four Leaf Ln., Crozet. 823-4200. $. Paulie’s Pig Out First barbecue joint on the way to Wintergreen. 7376 Rockfish Valley Hwy. 361-2001. $. Pig N’ Steak Pig…and steak. 313 Washington St., Madison. (540) 948-3130. $. Red Hub Food Co. Quality catering and barbecue at a 10-seat lunch counter. 202 10th St. NW. 975-2271. $. Riverside Lunch Legendary burgers and fries. 1429 Hazel St. 971-3546. $. Riverside North Notable burgers and fries on 29N. Sunday morning buffet, too. Forest Lakes Shopping Center. 979-1000. $. Sam’s Hot Dog Stand Get three dogs, fries and a drink for only $8.20. 5786 Three Notch’d Rd., Crozet. 205-4438. $. Smoked Kitchen and Tap Beloved food truckturned-restaurant in Crozet’s Piedmont Place. 2025 Library Ave., Crozet. 205-4881. $. The Colleen Drive-In On Route 29, look for the huge ice cream cone. 4105 Thomas Nelson Hwy., Arrington. 263-5343. $.
Grit Coffee People, coffee, food, space, design and work: That’s the focus at Grit. 110 Old Trail Dr., Crozet, 205-4253; 112 W. Main St., Downtown Mall, 971-8743; 989 Second St. SE, no phone; 19 Elliewood Ave., 293-4412; The Shops at Stonefield, 284-8461. $. Java Java All fair-trade organic coffee all the time. Smoothies and a lunch menu, too. Comfy seating, warm atmosphere, Wi-Fi. 421 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 245-0020. $. La Taza Cuban press sandwiches, soups and salads. Live music often. 407B Monticello Rd., 296-8292; 212 Seventh St. (inside the SNL Building), no phone. $. Lone Light Coffee Specialty coffee spot inside The Pie Chest. 119 Fourth St. NE. 977-0443. $. Mermaid Express Mochas to smoothies. Inside PVCC. No phone. $. Milli Coffee Roasters Espresso drinks, chai and hot chocolate. 400 Preston Ave., Suite 150, 282-2659. $. Mudhouse Locally roasted, heavy-duty coffee, fresh juices and pastries. 213 W. Main St., 9846833; The Square, Crozet, 823-2240; also to-go in the Bellair Market, 977-0222, and Mulberry Station, 245-0163. $.
Paradox Pastry Retro-urban-vibed bakery and dessert café. 313 Second St., in the Glass Building. 245-2253. $. Rapunzel’s Coffee, books and music; chill out in Lovingston. Live music, too. 924 Front St., Lovingston. 263-6660. $. Shark Mountain Coffee Roastery, coffee shop, chocolatier. 621 Nash Dr. (540) 327-1564. $. Sheepdog Coffee Grab-and-go coffee spot inside the Graduate hotel. 1309 W. Main St. 295-4333. $. Shenandoah Joe Local roaster with a coffee bar and pastries. 945 Preston Ave., 295-4563; 2214 Ivy Rd., 923-4563. $. Snowing in Space Coffee Co. Nitro brew coffee plus light snacks to tamper your caffeine buzz. 705 W. Main St. 228-1120. $. Starbucks Multiple locations for all your corporate coffee needs. 1601 University Ave., 9701058; Rivanna Ridge Shopping Center, 2954996; 1520 Seminole Trail, 973-5298; Hollymead Town Center, 975-6005. Location without phone in Fashion Square Mall. $. The Corner Cup Fresh Trager Brothers coffee and espresso, plus pastries and muffins. 1325 W. Main St. 293-7905. $. Trager Brothers Coffee See the roastery in action and sample some of the fresh roasted coffee while you’re there. 486 Front St., Lovingston. 263-8916. $.
Family-Friendly Ann’s Family Restaurant Good old country cooking. 1170 Thomas Nelson Hwy. (Rte. 29, south of Lovingston). 263-8110. $. Applebee’s Steak and Southwestern amid local memorabilia. 571 Branchlands Blvd., 974-5596; Rivanna Ridge Shopping Center, 293-3208; 2005 Abbey Rd., 293-3208. $/$$. Cherry Avenue Diner American diner classics: fries, burgers and the like. 820 Cherry Ave. 2021267. $. Chili’s Southwestern eats in a colorful, boothheavy interior. 100 Zan Rd. 975-0800. $/$$. Michie Tavern Traditional Southern lunch in an 18th-century tavern near Monticello. 683 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy. 977-1234. $$. Red Robin Gourmet burgers, salads and bottomless pits of steak fries. Fashion Square Mall. 964-9523. $. The Light Well Coffee-kitchen-tavern healthy ingredients in original recipes. 110 E. Main St., Orange. (540) 661-0004. $. The Nook Half-century-old Charlottesville diner serving breakfast, lunch and dinner with a full bar. 415 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 295-6665. $. Wayland’s Crossing Tavern Pub food—beef stew, cottage pie—as well as vegetarian- and kid-friendly fare. 1015 Heathercroft Cir., Crozet. 205-4669. $. Wood Grill Buffet Big buffet featuring things grilled on wood. 576 Branchlands Blvd. 9755613. $.
Fast Food Arby’s Big roast beef. 1230 Emmet St., 296-8995; 1700 Timberwood Blvd., 978-1050. $. Bojangles Chicken and biscuits. 2009 Abbey Rd. 293-1190; 3370 Seminole Trail, 284-5862. $. Burger King The Whopper. Pantops Shopping Center, 296-5145; 1181 Fifth St. Ext., 963-7827; 1000 Emmet St., 293-8566; 11518 James Madison Hwy., Gordonsville, 589-6854. $. CONTINUED ON PAGE 62
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Restaurant Guide CONTINUED FROM PAGE 61
Chick-Fil-A Waffle fries. 350 Woodbrook Dr., 872-0187; Fashion Square Mall, 973-1646; 1626 Richmond Rd., 245-5254. $. Cook-Out Diner fare, plus chicken nuggets —as a side. 1254 Emmet St. $.
Kilwin’s Ice cream, fudge and truffles. 313 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 234-3634. $. Kirt’s Homemade Ice Cream Ice cream made fresh in the store. Albemarle Square Shopping Center. 202-0306. $.
Dairy Queen Home of the Blizzard.1248 Crozet Ave., 823-6585; 1777 Fortune Park Rd., 964-9595. $.
Kohr Bros. Frozen Custard Cones, cups, floats, sundaes, “snowstorms” and smoothies. Woodbrook Shopping Center, 975-4651; 250E, 296-0041. $.
Hardee’s Burgers, breakfasts and fried chicken. 1150 Fifth St. SW, 977-4804; Rte. 250E, 9773191; Rte. 29N, 973-2083. $.
La Flor Michoacana Homemade popsicles, fruit beverages and ice cream. 601 Cherry Ave., 9841604. $.
Kentucky Fried Chicken Double-down with the Colonel. 1705 Emmet St. 295-5158. $.
Red Mango Fresh juices, smoothies and frozen yogurt. 5th Street Station. 328-8393. $.
McDonald’s Home of the Happy Meal. Barracks Road Shopping Center, 295-6092; 475 Ridge McIntire Rd., 977-2984; 1294 Stoney Point Rd., 2956677; 29th Place, 973-3055; Forest Lakes Shopping Center, 975-1112; 11455 James Madison Hwy., Gordonsville, 589-6753; 85 Callohill Dr., Lovingston, 263-8066. $.
Smojo Smoothies, juices, power bars and granola bars to go. 2025 Library Ave., Crozet. (360) 481-4087. $.
Popeyes Chicken chain with savory sides. 1709 Emmet St. 529-8148. $.
Splendora’s Gelato Ranging selection of Italian gelato (and sorbet) and delicious desserts in a bright Downtown location. 317 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 296-8555. $.
Raising Cane’s Chicken Fingers Chicken fingers and Texas toast. 1805 N. Emmet St. 293-4331. $. Taco Bell Great late-night drive-thru. 820 Gardens Blvd., 974-1344; 1158 Fifth St. NW, 295-9185; 801 Emmet St., 979-9074; Pantops Shopping Center, 296-7647. $. Wendy’s Spicy No. 6. 416 Fourth St. NW, 9790380; Corner of Rte. 250E and Rte. 20, 979-5908; Fashion Square Mall, 973-6226; 8764 Seminole Trail, Ruckersville, 990-2021. $. Zaxby’s Chicken wings, chicken fingers, chicken sandwiches... 1248 Emmet St. N. 529-8220. $.
French
Smoothie King Chain features smoothies, supplements and healthy snacks. Barracks Road Shopping Center, 295-8502; Rivanna Ridge Shopping Center, 975-5464. $.
Sweet Frog Interesting froyo flavors and even more interesting toppings—Cap’n Crunch with fresh mangos, maybe? Hollymead Town Center, 975-3764; Barracks Road Shopping Center, 2931130. $. The Juice Laundry Pressed juices, nut milks, shots, smoothies, coffee, salads and raw foods. 722 Preston Ave. #105, 1411 University Ave. 2343044. $. The Juice Place Smoothies, juices and rice bowls for quick eating. 201 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 270-8813. $.
Basic Necessities A taste of Southern France with fresh organic fare, plus wine and cheese. 2226 Rockfish Valley Hwy., Nellysford. 361-1766. $$.
Gourmet Groceries and Gas Stations
C&O Sophisticated French at a 30-plus-year-old establishment. Excellent cheese plate, extensive wine list, popular bar. 515 E. Water St. 971-7044. $$$.
Batesville Market Sandwiches to order, salads and baked goods plus cheeses, produce and packaged goods. 6624 Plank Rd., Batesville. 8232001. $.
Fleurie Upscale modern French restaurant gets rave reviews. Extensive wine list. 108 Third St. NE. 971-7800. $$$.
Bellair Market Gourmet sandwich spot on Ivy Road. 2401 Ivy Rd. 971-6608. $.
Petit Pois French-American bistro from the owners of Fleurie. All the chic, lower check. 201 E. Main St. 979-7647. $$.
Blue Ridge Bottle Shop Craft beer store with both bottles and growlers available—plus sample before you buy! 2025 Library Ave, Crozet. 602-2337. $.
Pomme Casual French in the heart of picturesque Gordonsville. 115 S. Main St., Gordonsville. (540) 832-0130. $$$.
Brownsville Market Breakfast starting at 5am, plus burgers, sides and famous fried chicken. 5995 Rockfish Gap Tpke., Crozet. 823-5251. $.
Frozen Treats
Butcher On Main Beef, pork, chicken and duck from 20 Virginia farms. 416 W. Main St., in the Main Street Market. 244-7400. $.
Arch’s Frozen Yogurt Wahoo-approved yogurt with tons of optional toppings. 104 14th St. NW. 984-2724. $. Ben & Jerry’s Thirty-four flavors of ice cream and froyo. Barracks Road Shopping Center. 244-7438. $. Bloop Self-serve froyo with rotating flavors. 1430 Rolkin Ct. 282-2093; 32 Mill Creek Dr. 3282288. $. Chaps More than 20 years of gourmet homemade ice cream. Grub like burgers and diner fare. 223 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 977-4139. $. Cold Stone Creamery Ice cream, cakes, shakes and smoothies at this frozen treat chain. 1709 Emmet St. 529-8526. $. Corner Juice UVA alum-owned juice spot with fresh, cold-pressed options. 1509 University Ave. $. Crozet Creamery Small-batch ice cream in rotating flavors from Rocky Road to dairy-free lemon. 2025 Library Ave, Crozet. 205-4889. $.
62 62 Knife&Fork Knife&Fork Spring Spring
Everyday Café Gourmet gas station with homemade pizza and gelato. 2404 Fontaine Ave., 2063790; 250E on Pantops Mountain, 971-8771. $. Feast! Nationally noted cheese, wine and specialty food shop. 416 W. Main St., in the Main Street Market. 244-7800. $$. Foods of All Nations Sandwiches, deli and salads at this gourmet grocery. Try the West Coast. 2121 Ivy Rd. 296-6131. $. Greenwood Gourmet Grocery Made-to-order sandwiches, plus fresh soup and a deli with macn-cheese, bread pudding and other rotating dishes. 6701 Rockfish Gap Tpke., Crozet. (540) 4566431. $. Hunt Country Market A rotating menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner. 2048 Garth Rd. 2961648. $. Integral Yoga Natural Foods All-natural food, supplements and personal care products, plus a
deli and juice/smoothie bar. 923 Preston Ave. 293-4111. $. JM Stock Provisions Whole-animal butcher shop with sandwiches to go. 709 W. Main St. 2442480. $. Keevil & Keevil Grocery and Kitchen Belmont grocery with breakfast and lunch sammies, plus takeaway dinners. 703 Hinton Ave. 989-7648. $. Market Street Café Gourmet breakfast, rotisserie chicken and deli meats. 1111 E. Rio Rd. 9641185. $. Market Street Market Deli in the Downtown grocery serves sandwiches and prepared foods. 400 E. Market St. 293-3478. $. Market Street Wineshops An expertly curated selection. 305 Rivanna Plaza Dr., Suite 102, 9649463; 311 E. Market St., 979-9463. $$. Mill Creek Market The Southern sister of Bellair Market. Avon Street, across from the Southside Shopping Center. 817-1570. $. Mulberry Station at Shadwell A full-service convenience store. 3008 Richmond Rd., Keswick. 245-0315. $. Seafood @ West Main Fresh fish, shellfish and seafood, plus Japanese groceries. 416 W. Main St., in the Main Street Market. 296-8484. $. The Fresh Market A European-style market chain, with high-quality meats, cheese and seafood, plus über-fresh produce. Albemarle Square. 244-2444. $$. Timbercreek Market Grocery arm of Albemarle’s Timbercreek Farm. Fresh produce, meats and cheeses, plus a café with a locally sourced menu. 722 Preston Ave. 202-8052. $. Trader Joe’s This grocery chain boasts top quality at low cost, including “Two Buck Chuck” wine (which is actually $3.50). The Shops at Stonefield. 974-1466. $$. Whole Foods Market Fresh, all-natural sandwiches ranging from classic favorites to vegan delights. Big salad and prepared-foods bar, too. 1797 Hydraulic Rd. 973-4900. $$.
Inns and Hotel Restaurants Birdwood Grill at The Boar’s Head Open seasonally for breakfast and lunch. 410 Golf Course Dr. 293-6401. $$. Café 1201 Seven-day breakfast buffet. At Courtyard Marriott-UVA Medical Center. 1201 W. Main St. 977-1700. $$. Charlotte’s All-American menu in the Holiday Inn. 1200 Fifth St. SW. 977-5100. $$. Emmet’s Holiday Inn restaurant serves American fare. 1901 Emmet St. 977-0803. $$. Fossett’s American regional cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus a tapas bar. Inside Keswick Hall, 701 Club Dr., off 250E. 979-3440. $$$. Heirloom Rooftop bar and restaurant inside The Graduate Hotel. 1309 W. Main St. 295-4333. $$. Inn at Court Square Upscale Southern in the oldest house Downtown. 410 E. Jefferson St. 295-2800. $$$. Keswick Hall Monday through Friday lunch buffet in the Villa Crawford. Reservations required. 701 Club Dr. 979-3440. $$. Lafayette Inn Restored 1840s inn that once served as a boarding house for proper young ladies. 146 Main St., Stanardsville. 985-6345. $$$. Oakhurst Inn Coffee & Café Southern breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch. 1616 Jefferson Park Ave. 872-0100. $. Old Mill Room Restaurant Expect historic ambience with your breakfast, brunch, lunch or dinner. The Boar’s Head, 200 Ednam Dr. 972-2230. $$$.
Prospect Hill Plantation Inn & Restaurant Candlelit prix fixe four-course dinners in this 1732 plantation house. 2887 Poindexter Rd., Trevilians. (540) 967-0844. $$$. The Boar’s Head The Old Mill Room with a formal daily menu. The adjacent Bistro 1834 has a relaxed dinner menu. The Sports Club Café and Birdwood Grill offer casual dining options as well. Prices vary widely. 200 Ednam Dr. 972-2230. $$$. The Edge Casual fare with a family-priced menu for a meal overlooking the slopes. Wintergreen Resort, Rte. 664. 325-8080. $$. The Fountain Room at the Mark Addy Inn Picture-perfect mountain B&B with a dining room open to all. 56 Rodes Farm Dr., Nellysford. 361-1101. $$$. The Inn at Meander Plantation Upscale American cuisine and candlelight dining. Breakfast open to inn guests only. 2333 N. James Madison Hwy., Locust Dale. (800) 385-4936. $$$. The Inn at Willow Grove This inn boasts an exquisite menu at its in-house restaurant, Vintage. 14079 Plantation Way, Orange. (540) 3171206. $$$. The Pointe Tapas-style appetizers, filet mignon and Starr Hill beers on tap. In the Omni Hotel, Downtown Mall. 971-5500. $$$. TJ’s Tavern and Dining Room Doubletree Hotel dining room with views of the Rivanna and American and Italian fare. 990 Hilton Heights Rd. 973-2121. $$.
Italian and Pizza Amici’s Italian Bistro Sicilian cuisine in a family-style setting. 370 Valley St., Scottsville. 2864000. $. Anna’s Pizza No. 5 In the family for 35 years. 115 Maury Ave. 295-7500. $. Anna’s Ristorante Italiano From the folks behind Anna’s Pizza No. 5. 1015 Heathercroft Cir., Crozet. 823-1327. $. Bella’s Restaurant An authentic Roman-Italian family-style restaurant. 707 W. Main St. 3274833. $$. Belmont Pizza and Pub Fresh, stone-baked pizza on hand-tossed pies. Beer, too! 211 Carlton Rd. Suite 10. 977-1970. $. Benny Deluca’s Giant slices from a simple fivepie menu. 913 W. Main St. 245-4007. Brick Oven Gourmet pizzas, sandwiches from an authentic wood-fired grill. Rio Hill Shopping Center. 964-1119. $. Brixx Wood Fired Pizza Franchise pizza spot serves, you guessed it, wood-fired pies. Barracks Road Shopping Center. 245-4050. $$. Carmello’s Upscale service just like in Little Italy, gargantuan pepper mills and all. 29th Place. 977-5200. $$. Chirio’s Pizza Authentic, homemade NY pizza, subs, salads, sandwiches, specials and ice cream. Eat in, take-out, delivery. 2777 Rockfish Valley Hwy. 361-9188. $. Christian’s Pizza The place to get fresh pies, by-the-slice or the whole darn thing. 118 W. Main St., Downtown Mall, 977-9688; 100 14th St. NW, 872-0436; 3440 Seminole Trail, 973-7280. $. College Inn Straight-up late-night goodness. Pizza, gyros, subs, and its delivery can’t be beat. Breakfast items, too. 1511 University Ave. 9772710. $. Crozet Pizza Unpretentious, family-owned pizza parlor with nationally recognized pies. 5794 Three Notch’d Rd., Crozet, 823-2132; 20 Elliewood Ave., 202-1046. $. Domino’s Six locally owned branches of the national chain. Pizza, of course, plus pasta, sand-
Restaurant Guide wiches and wings. 1137 Millmont St., 971-8383; 1147 Fifth St. SW, 970-7777; 2335 Seminole Trail, 973-1243; 508 Stewart St., 979-2525; Food Lion Shopping Center, Ruckersville, 990-2000; 325 Four Leaf Ln., Crozet, 823-7752. $. Dr. Ho’s Humble Pie Pizza joint in the Crossroads mini-mall. 4916 Plank Rd., on 29S at North Garden. 245-0000. $/$$. End Zone Pizza Pizza, big subs and fresh salads. Forest Lakes Shopping Center. 973-8207. $.
Vinny’s New York Pizza and Pasta Serves up authentic pies, pastas and subs. Lasagna and veal are faves at this long-established joint. 8841 Seminole Trail. 985-4731. $.
Copper Mine Bistro Mediterranean-inspired menu features tapas, pizzas and entrées like shrimp provençal and veal saltimbocca. Wintergreen Resort. 325-8090. $/$$.
Vita Nova Cheap and hearty pizza by the slice. 310 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 977-0162. $.
Mezeh Mediterranean Grill Bowls, wraps and pita pockets, all prepared with the fresh ingredients of your choosing. The Shops at Stonefield. 202-1446. $.
Vivace Every kind of pasta imaginable, plus seafood, Italian wines, grappas and full bar in a casual, elegant setting. 2244 Ivy Rd. 979-0994. $$.
Feelin’ Saucy Pizzeria Buy one pizza, get one free. 104 14th St. NW. 234-3877. $. Fellini’s #9 A local landmark featuring Italian favorites plus some inventive new takes. 200 W. Market St. 979-4279. $$.
Vocelli Pizza Pizza, pasta, panini, salads and stromboli for carryout and delivery, plus antipasti. 1857 Seminole Trail in the Woodbrook Shopping Center. 977-4992. $.
Fry’s Spring Station Very characterful brick-oven pizza joint. 2115 Jefferson Park Ave. 202-2257. $$. Giuseppe’s Italian Restaurant Everything you could want out of classical Italian fare. 2842 Rockfish Valley Hwy., Nellysford. 361-9170. $$. Lampo Authentic Neapolitan pizzeria in Belmont. 205 Monticello Rd. 282-0607. $.
Orzo Kitchen & Wine Bar Dishes from Spain to Greece and wines of the world. Main Street Market. 975-6796. $$. Parallel 38 Small plates, innovative “farm-totable” cocktails and an extensive wine list. 817 W. Main St. 923-3838. $$.
Mediterranean
Mexican and Southwestern
Bashir’s Taverna Authentic Mediterranean cuisine by a Mediterranean chef. 507 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 923-0927. $$.
Al Carbon Chicken Tacos, tamales and sandwiches with rotisserie chicken. 1871 Seminole Trail. 964-1052. $.
MY FAVORITE BITE
Lelo’s Pizza By the slice or the whole pie. Rivanna Ridge Shopping Center, 293-6788. $.
Molto bene!
Little Caesar’s Pizza Home of the $5 Large Hotn-Ready Pizza. 1301 Hydraulic Rd., 296-5646; Albemarle Square, 964-1011; Pantops Center, 2343328. $. Marco’s Pizza “Ah!thentic Italian” (with a secret sauce). c 465-6800. $.
Phyllis Hunter, aka The Spice Diva, says she’s spent a lifetime trying to recreate a dish that’s hung in her memory for more than three decades. But, she laments, she “could never hope to recreate the experience.” There’s only one solution: “I’ll have to go back.” “Thirty-five years ago, I was in Spoleto, Italy, singing in the Festival dei Due Mondi with New York Opera Theater, in Cavalli’s L’Ormindo. The entire experience was enchanted from the beginning: I was about to be married, we were in a beautiful setting singing gorgeous opera in a tiny jewel box of a theater and we dined on superbly delicious food. We ate truffles on our pasta and gelato for dessert every day. The opera was produced in New York and mounted again in Italy, so we had all become pretty close friends. Toward the end of the run, we ate dinner family-style at an outdoor restaurant. Within the lovely courtyard were charcoal grills (a Spoleto tradition) and a bocce court. Large trays were passed around for each course. There was tiramisu for dessert. I swooned with the first bite. The flavors of the chocolate-sprinkled cream quickly followed by the coffee and the cookie combined to achieve a perfectly balanced, sensual experience.”
Mellow Mushroom Trippy-themed franchise, with great pizza and even better beer selection. 1321 W. Main St., in the Red Roof Inn. 972-9366. $. MidiCi Neapolitan pizza chain. The Shops at Stonefield. 284-8874. $. Mona Lisa Pasta This market carries nearly every variety of pasta and sauce imaginable. Togo entrées serve two to three people. Preston Plaza. 295-2494. $$. Nate & Em’s Pizza All your pizzeria faves: calzones, stromboli, pasta, subs and—of course—pies. 5924 Seminole Trail, Ruckersville. 985-9000. $. Palladio Restaurant Northern Italian cuisine and Barboursville wines. 17655 Winery Rd., Barboursville. (540) 832-7848. $$$. Papa John’s Pizza fans come to Papa. 3441 Seminole Trail, 973-7272; University Shopping Center, 979-7272; 1305-A Long St., 296-7272. $. Pizza Hut The Jabba of pizza chains. 1718 Seminole Trail, 973-1616; 540 Radford Ln., Suite 300, 823-7500. $. Sal’s Caffe Italia Brick-oven pizza plus subs, pasta and outdoor seating in a lively Mall location. 221 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 295-8484. $$.
Armando’s Mexican Restaurant Authentic Mexican on the Corner. 105 14th St. NW. 202-1980. $. Aqui es Mexico Authentic Mexican and Salvadoran tacos, tortas, sopas, pupusas and more. 221 Carlton Rd., Ste. 12. 295-4748. $. Barbie’s Burrito Barn California-style Mexican food to go. 201 Avon St. 328-8020. $. Brazos Tacos Austin, Texas-style breakfast, lunch, early dinner and brunch tacos. 925 Second St. SE, 984-1163. $. Burrito Baby Made-to-order burritos, baby. 111 S. Faulconer St., Gordonsville. (540) 832-6677. $. BurritOh! Burritos, tacos, rice bowls, quesadillas and nachos made to order. 540 Radford Ln., Crozet. 812-2152. $. Cactus Mexican Restaurant Authentic Mexican and Central American dishes. 221 Carlton Rd. Suite 11 & 12. 295-4748. $. Chipotle Simple menu of burritos and tacos made before your eyes. Barracks Road Shopping Center, 872-0212; 2040 Abbey Rd. Suite 101, 984-1512. $. Cinema Taco Burritos, tacos and empanadas inside the Jefferson Theater. Delicious and cheap. 110 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 245-4981. $. Continental Divide “Get in Here!” commands the neon sign in the window. 811 W. Main St. 9840143. $$. El Jaripeo Mexican favorites for the 29N crowd and also the UVA Corner crowd. 1750 Timberwood Blvd., 296-9300; 1202 W. Main St., 9729190. $. El Vaquero West This tried-and-true Mexican place has sister locations in Palmyra, Haymarket and Orange, all owned by the same family. 1863 Seminole Trail. 964-1190. $. Fuzzy’s Taco Shop Fresh, handmade, Baja- style Mexican food. 435 Merchant Walk Sq., Suite 600. 214-0500. $. Guadalajara Mexican food by Mexican folks. Margaritas so green they glow. Cheap prices! 805 E. Market St., 977-2676; 395 Greenbrier Dr., 978-4313; 2206 Fontaine Ave., 979-2424; 108 Town Country Ln., 293-3538; 3450 Seminole Trail, 977-2677. $. Junction Modern Mexican in Belmont. 421 Monticello Rd. 465-6131. $$. La Cocina del Sol Southwestern flair for breakfast, lunch and dinner. 1200 Crozet Ave., Crozet, 823-5469. $$. La Joya Authentic Mexican from tacos to churros. 1145 Fifth St. SW, 293-3185; 1015 Heathercroft Cir, Ste. #300 (Crozet), 205-4609. $. La Michoacana Mexican deli serves budget-friendly burritos, tacos and enchiladas. 1138 E. High St. 409-9941. $. La Tortuga Feliz Authentic Mexican entrées and baked goods. 1195 Seminole Trail. 882-7461. $. Los Jarochos Authentic Mexican in Midtown. 625 W. Main St. 328-8281. $.
Sal’s Pizza Hand-tossed pizzas, fresh bread, delicious pasta dishes since 1987. Crozet Shopping Center, Crozet. 823-1611. $.
Margarita’s the Flavor of Mexico Authentic Mexican, American and margaritas. 2815 Rockfish Valley Hwy., Nellysford. 218-7767. $.
Tavola Open kitchen serves up lovely food (pancetta-wrapped shrimp, handmade pappardelle) and an artisanal wine list. 826 Hinton Ave. 9729463. $$.
Mono Loco Outstanding Latin-themed entrées, inventive sides and legendary margaritas. Inside, cozy cantina feel, plus a covered patio. 200 W. Water St. 979-0688. $$.
The Rooftop Pizzas, salads, seafood and steaks with panoramic views of the Blue Ridge. 2025 Library Ave, Crozet. 205-4881. $$.
Morsel Compass Popular food truck’s brick and mortar spot. 2025 Library Ave., Crozet. 989-1569. $$. AMY JACKSON
Uncle Maddio’s Pizza Build your own perfect pizza, assembly line-style. The Shops at Stonefield, 234-3717. $$.
Basil Mediterranean Bistro Mediterranean fare from grape leaves to tapas, plus a late-night wine bar. 109 14th St. 977-5700. $.
Vito’s Italian Restaurant Specializing in pizza and Italian dishes. Rte. 29, 8181 Thomas Nelson Hwy., Lovingston. 263-8688. $$.
Fabio’s New York Pizza Pizza, subs, salads and calzones made by natives of Naples. Get your pie the Sicilian way. 1551 E. High St. 872-0070. $.
Travinia Italian Kitchen Contemporary American Italian, plus an outdoor patio for people watching. The Shops at Stonefield. 244-3304. $$.
Vinny’s Italian Grill & Pizzeria This regional chain has pies plus a slew of caloric subs, pastas and stromboli. Hollymead Town Center. 973-4055. $$.
Plaza Azteca Tableside guacamole is just the beginning of the offerings at this Mexican chain. 101 Seminole Ct., Seminole Square Shopping Center. 964-1045. $. CONTINUED ON PAGE 65
Spring Knife&Fork 63
Chaps
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64 Knife&Fork Spring
Restaurant Guide CONTINUED FROM PAGE 63
Qdoba Mexican Grill Spicy burritos, quesadillas and Mexican salads made before your eyes. 1415 University Ave., 293-6299; 3918 Lenox Ave., 244-5641. $. The Bebedero Upscale authentic Mexican, plus cocktails and made-to-order guac. 225 W. Main St., Downtown Mall. 234-3763. $$.
Miscellaneous Nationalities Afghan Kabob Palace Mouthwatering authentic Afghan cuisine. 400 Emmet St. N. 245-0095. $$. Aromas Café Mediterranean and Middle Eastern fare. Sandwiches, salads and famous falafel; super-friendly service. Barracks Road Shopping Center. 244-2486. $. Bavarian Chef German cuisine in Alpine atmosphere. 29N in Madison. (540) 948-6505. $$. Kebabish Sizzling and Fire Grille Turkish, Indian, Nepali and Mediterranean fusion. Try the “lovely meat ball”! 111 W. Water St. 995-5165. $. Little India Delicious Pakistani, Indian and Middle Eastern-inspired food for veggies and carnivores. 1329 W. Main St. 202-2067. $. Mas Authentic Spanish tapas and wines in a funky, dimly lit atmosphere in the heart of Belmont. 904 Monticello Rd. 979-0990. $$. Obrigado New American fare and pasta nights are the specialties at this colorful, bistro-like storefront spot. 109 W. Main St., Louisa. (540) 967-9447. $$.
Café at Monticello Sandwiches, barbecue, coffee, tea and ice cream for when you’re done with your tour of TJ’s house. 984-9800. $. Carving Board Café Inventive salads, soups and sandwiches for the 29N lunch bunch. Albemarle Square Shopping Center. 974-9004. $. Chopt Creative salad chain with ingredients from local purveyors. Barracks Road Shopping Center. 328-8092. $. Citizen Bowl Shop Specialty salads with with gluten-free, vegetarian and Paleo-friendly options. 223 W. Main St., Downtown Mall. 234-3662. $. Croby’s Urban Viddles Southern-inspired chicken and pork rotisserie fare. 32 Mill Creek Dr., suite 102. 234-3089. $. Durty Nelly’s Jazz, blues and rock in a rootsy pub and deli that caters. 2200 Jefferson Park Ave. 295-1278. $.
Take It Away Sandwiches, salads, sides and desserts in a jazz-themed shop. Favorite spot of student study breakers. 115 Elliewood Ave. 2951899. $. The Flat The place for crêpes: Choose sweet or savory for lunch or dinner. 111A E. Water St., behind the Jefferson Theater. 978-FLAT. $. The Salad Maker Made-to-order salads, plus a daily soup special and sweet treats. 300 E. Market St. 284-5523. $. Tilman’s Cheese, snacks and sandwiches in the café, plus a charming wine bar. 406 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. $.
Firehouse Subs Hot subs and sandwiches across from Fashion Square. 29th Place. 995-5921. $.
Trackside Café Healthy fare and smoothies inside ACAC. ACAC, Albemarle Square Shopping Center. 978-3800. $.
Greenie’s Vegetarian and vegan sandwiches. 110 Second St. NW. 996-1869. $.
Tubby’s Grilled sandwiches and subs galore. 1412 E. High St. 293-3825. $.
HotCakes Fancy sandwiches, homemade entrées and desserts. Delivery available. Barracks Road Shopping Center. 295-6037. $.
Which Wich Superior Sandwiches Create your own sandwiches by marking up the pre-printed brown bags. Hollymead Town Center. 977-9424. $.
Iron Paffles & Coffee Pastry dough + waffle iron + savory or sweet insides. 214 W. Water St. 8063800. $.
Zazus Fresh Grille Lots of wraps, salads, soups and fresh smoothies, plus yummy breakfast wraps. Delivery available. 2214 Ivy Rd. 293-3454. $.
Ivy Provisions Hot and cold sammies with inventive names like the “Don’t Call Me Shirley.” 2206 Ivy Rd. 202-1308. $.
Zoës Kitchen Fast, casual meals with an emphasis on health-conscious, Mediterranean-inspired ingredients. Barracks Road Shopping Center. 955-5334. $.
Jack’s Shop Kitchen Farm-to-table brunch, lunch and supper spot with elevated classics. 14843 Spotswood Trail, Ruckersville. 939-9239. $$.
Pearl Island Caribbean-inspired lunch spot in the Jefferson School City Center. 233 Fourth St. NW. 466-0092 . $.
Jersey Mike’s Subs Subs from Jersey, prepared right in front of you. 2040 Abbey Rd. #104, 529-6278; 5th Street Station, 328-8694. $.
Sticks A quick, healthy alternative to fast food: kebobs (veggie options available), sides, salads, desserts. Preston Plaza, 295-5262; Rivanna Ridge Shopping Center, 295-5212. $.
Jimmy John’s Low-cost sandwiches on 29N. “Freaky fast” delivery. 1650 E. Rio Rd., 975-2100. $.
Sultan Kebab Authentic Turkish food, all kind of kebabs, vegetarian dishes, salads, homemade Turkish baklava, Turkish tea and coffee. 333 Second Street SE. 981-0090. $.
Maury Ave., 977-5141; 1220 Seminole Trail, 9734035; 1779 Fortune Park Rd., 974-9595; Vinegar Hill Shopping Center, 245-8000; 65 Callohill Dr., Lovingston, 263-6800. $.
Kitchen(ette) An assortment of sandwiches (vegetarian included!) plus sides and salads. 606 Rivanna Ave. 260-7687. $.
Steaks and Seafood Aberdeen Barn More beef than you can shake a T-bone at, since 1965. 2018 Holiday Dr. 2964630. $$$. Bonefish Grill Sister to mega-popular Outback Steakhouse featuring seafood, grilled non-fish specialties and a full bar. Hollymead Town Center. 975-3474. $$.
Littlejohn’s New York Delicatessen Buxom sandwiches. Delivery, too! 1427 University Ave., 977-0588. $.
Devils Grill Restaurant & Lounge Above Devils Knob Golf Course with 50-mile views. Dinner reservations required. Wintergreen Resort. 3258100. $$$.
Lovingston Café A pleasant surprise in the middle of Lovingston, with a diverse, modestly priced menu. 165 Front St., Lovingston. 263-8000. $.
Downtown Grille Upscale steak and seafood with white-linen service and a chummy bar scene. 201 W. Main St., Downtown Mall. 817-7080. $$$.
Twisted Branch Tea Bazaar Downtown teahouse offers international vegetarian fare, delectable desserts and 80-plus exotic loose teas and hookah. 414 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 293-9947. $.
Mac’s Country Store Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Daily specials, eat in or take out. 7023 Patrick Henry Hwy., Roseland. 277-5305. $.
Outback Steakhouse Bloomin’ onions and giant steaks. 1101 Seminole Trail. 975-4329. $$.
Market at Grelen A casual café with seasonal ingredients and daily specials. 15091 Yager Rd., Somerset. (540) 672-7268. $.
Soups, Salads, Sandwiches
Public Fish & Oyster Simply prepared, responsibly sourced seafood. Shucked oysters, raw bar and a full bar. 513 W. Main St., 995-5542; 1015 Heathercroft Cir., Crozet, 812-2909. $/$$.
Martha’s Garden Café Healthy breakfast, lunch and dinner options. Martha Jefferson Hospital, 595 Martha Jefferson Dr. 654-6037. $.
Red Lobster Seafood with daily specials. 1648 E. Rio Rd. 973-0315. $$.
The Shebeen Pub and Braai Conjures the South African veldt with brunch on Sundays. Great bar for futbol-watching. Vinegar Hill Shopping Center. 296-3185. $$.
Rhett’s River Grill and Raw Bar She-crab soup, half-shell delicacies and steaks. 2335 Seminole Trail, Suite 100. 974-7818. $$.
Bizou Upscale down-home cookin’ with fresh fish, pork and beef dishes. 119 W. Main St., Downtown Mall. 977-1818. $$. Brasserie Saison Downtown Mall brewery with Franco-Belgian cuisine. 111 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 202-7027. $$. Burton’s Grill Contemporary American menu with stylish ambience. The Shops at Stonefield. 977-1111. $$. Clifton Inn Sit at the chef’s table and watch the action. 1296 Clifton Inn Dr. 971-1800. $$. Commonwealth Restaurant & Skybar Swanky Downtown restaurant with inventive entrées and a rooftop bar. 422 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 202-7728. $$$. Court Square Tavern Hearty pub fare and 130plus varieties of bottled beer. 500 Court Square. 296-6111. $$. Duner’s Artful entrées and fine desserts on a rotating menu. 250W in Ivy. 293-8352. $$$. Fig Bistro & Bar Mediterranean and New Orleans-inspired dishes with house-made ingredients. 1331 W. Main St. 995-5047. $. Hamiltons’ at First & Main Imaginative American cuisine, award-winning wine list and superb vegetarian. 101 W. Main St., Downtown Mall. 295-6649. $$$. Ivy Inn Daily menu of modern American cuisine in an 18th century tollhouse. 2244 Old Ivy Rd. 977-1222. $$$. Maya Upscale Southern cuisine. Pleasant patio seating outside, sleek mod inside. 633 W. Main St. 979-6292. $$. Michael’s Bistro Mucho microbrews and an artful menu. Second floor of 1427 University Ave. 977-3697. $$. Oakhart Social Seasonal Atlantic coast food for sharing. 511 W. Main St. 995-5449. $$. Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyards The Farm Table & Wine Bar is as big a draw as its beautiful setting. 5022 Plank Rd., North Garden. 202-8063. $$. Red Pump Kitchen Tuscan-inspired restaurant with chic, rustic décor. 401 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 202-6040. $$. Restoration Indoor and outdoor dining at this spot at Old Trail Golf Course. 5494 Golf Dr., Crozet. 823-1841. $$. Southern Crescent Cajun and Creole fare in Belmont. 814 Hinton Ave. 284-5101. $$. Tastings Wine shop/restaurant with woodgrilled entrées and an impressive wine list. 502 E. Market St. 293-3663. $$. Tavern & Grocery Inspired tavern fare from chicken sandwiches to banh mi. 333 W. Main St. 293-7403. $. The Alley Light Intimate small-plate spot above Revolutionary Soup. 108 Second St. SW. 2965003. $$.
B.good Grain bowls and seasonal salads, plus smoothies and shakes. Barracks Road Shopping Center. 305-1115. $.
Panera Bread Co. Ubiquitous chain with casual fare. Barracks Road Shopping Center, 2456192; Hollymead Town Center, 973-5264; Fifth Street Station, 973-5264. $.
Baggby’s Gourmet Sandwiches Give your name; your sammich arrives in a bag with a cookie. Get it? 512 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 984-1862. $.
Quizno’s Subs Chain offering cheesesteaks, meatballs and specialty subs. Salads and soups, too. Rivanna Ridge Shopping Center. 977-7827. $.
Blue Ridge Café Ruckersville joint serving American-continental. 8315 Seminole Trail. 985-3633. $$.
Revolutionary Soup Choose from a slew of enticing soups made daily. 108 Second St. SW, 296-SOUP; 104 14th St. NW, 979-9988. $.
Blue Ridge Country Store Breakfast is eggs, scones and muffins; lunch is pre-made wraps, soups and entrées, plus a popular salad bar. 518 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 295-1573. $.
Roots Natural Kitchen Fast-casual health food from UVA alumni. 1329 W. Main St. 529-6229. $.
Upscale Casual
Subway Tons of locations, so you can “eat fresh” anywhere. 1764 Rio Hill Ct., 978-7008; 32 Mill Creek Dr., 295-5555; Pantops Shopping Center, 984-0652; 1061 E. Rio Rd., 973-9898; 2212 Ivy Rd., 293-0666; 104 14th St. NW, 295-7827; 111
Back 40 Locally sourced, inventive dishes and cocktails. 722 Preston Ave. #103. 202-8052. $$.
Water Street French fusion and progressive American small plates. 117 Fifth St. SE. 244-0217. $$.
Bistro 1834 Located beside the Old Mill Room Restaurant, the menu has a variety of lighter fare. The Boar’s Head, 200 Ednam Dr. 972-2230. $$$.
Zocalo Flavorful high-end, Latin-inspired cuisine with a full bar. 201 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 977-4944. $$.
Bodo’s Bagels Still the king of bagels in our town. 1418 N. Emmet St., 977-9598; 505 Preston Ave., 293-5224; 1609 University Ave., 293-6021. $.
Rocksalt Seafood-centric chain with an outdoor bar and patio. The Shops at Stonefield. 326-5665. $$. Shadwell’s Seafood, steaks, burgers, pasta and salads made out of fresh, local ingredients. 1791 Richmond Rd. 202-2568. $$.
The Fitzroy Restaurant and bar in a swanky setting. 120 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 295-1223. $$. The Local Belmont neighborhood spot with unusual twists on local, organic ingredients. 824 Hinton Ave. 984-9749. $$. The Melting Pot It’s a fon-do! This meltedcheese franchise features warmers built into the tables and a huge wine selection. 501 E. Water St. 244-3463. $$$.
Spring Knife&Fork 65
The Last Bite
SLICE OF HEAVEN We just can’t let this cheese thing go, okay? Our pick for a creamy treat: Paradox Pastry’s New York-style cheesecake. It’s a dense, buttery hunk of delicious with just a hint of vanilla. And, because there’s no crust, it’s gluten-free. Owner Jenny Peterson says it’s the “bomb-diggety” even though, she admits, “I don’t even like cheesecake!” That’s all right—more for us.
CRAMER PHOTO
66 Knife&Fork Spring
NEAPOLITAN PIZZA IS THE BETTER PIZZA Enjoy it the true Italian way, with a knife & fork.
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