All about Tonkatsu: The Lowdown on a Fried Favourite

BY MALLORY FRAYN

Breaded and fried foods are a staple across various cultures and cuisines, especially when it comes to preparing protein. It’s hard not to enjoy tender pork, chicken, beef, or veal encrusted in crispy, fried deliciousness. Think schnitzel in Austria and Germany, a popular option served with hearty sides like spätzle, cabbage and potatoes, or the Southern classic, chicken fried steak (which is actually made with beef), doused in creamy, black pepper gravy. Japanese cuisine is no exception to having a similar offering in their arsenal; enter, tonkatsu.

So what is tonkatsu exactly, and where did it originate? The word itself effectively describes what the dish is. Eddie Yang, owner of Edmonton’s Nara Katsu restaurant explains, “Katsu is deep-fried breaded pork, beef, shrimp, fish, etc. The meaning of the word Katsu is deep-fried breaded food. So if you add "Ton" in front, it will be deep-fried breaded pork, as "Ton" means pork.”

It is believed to have originated in Tokyo during the Meiji period, towards the end of the 19th century. At the time, policies were being established that popularized Western culture, and naturally, this had an impact on cuisine. Côtelette de veau is a French dish that involves pan-frying breaded veal in plenty of butter, and it is thought that this inspired the earliest iterations of tonkatsu. Given that Japan already had tempura, chefs were able to apply certain technical aspects of frying to put their own spin on it. Namely, they knew how to make it crispier than its panfried counterparts.

You might be thinking at this point, how many ways can one possibly fry a pork cutlet? From schnitzel, to côtelette, to tonkatsu, what actually differentiates these iterations? While the variations are not huge, they are notable. For example, tonkatsu uses panko, rather than generic breadcrumbs. Panko is typically made from crustless, white bread, unlike breadcrumbs, which are usually made from the heels and other stale bits of whatever loaves you have on hand. The crumbs of panko are thus flakier and more delicate than regular breadcrumbs, which allows them to absorb less oil. Less oil absorption means that the final product can be mouth-shatteringly crispy, with no sogginess in sight.

The other notable difference is how tonkatsu is fried relative to its European counterparts. It tends to be deep fried, and thus fully submerged in the hot oil, allowing thicker pieces of pork to be cooked all the way through. In comparison, schnitzel tends to be shallow fried, which means that the meat itself has to be pounded thinner to ensure it isn’t still raw, before the exterior burns.

“The process of preparing the meat for katsu is a bit complicated, as it needs skill to take off all the excess fat, fascia, and unnecessary meat,” Yang adds. “Then we cut it into pieces that weigh around

160–180g in a certain direction and size. Then we tenderize it with a meat hammer and season it. I would say the most common mistakes a home cook can make are the processes of preparing the meat, the temperature of the oil, and the time it needs to fry.” Different cuts of pork can be used for tonkatsu, each lending their own, unique qualities. Pork loin and pork tenderloin are the most popular, with the former being more succulent because of its fat content, and the latter being particularly lean.

While we’ve thus far covered what tonkatsu is, it’s also important to consider what it is not, given that there are some similar-sounding culinary preparations in Japan that are vastly different. It ought not to be confused with “tonkotsu”, a type of ramen made with pork bones (hence “ton”), with nothing crispy nor fried in its vicinity. “Kotsu” means “bone”, which describes the preparation of the broth. It also is not “torikatsu”, which is otherwise identical to tonkatsu, the only difference being that it is made with chicken instead of pork. Basically, any protein can be prepared in the “katsu” style; breaded in panko and deep fried, even fish and cheese. That being said, even within the tonkatsu family specifically, there are different plays to be on the lookout for.

Katsudon is a rice bowl, topped with tonkatsu, a fried egg, and a myriad of vegetables and condiments, making for a “stick to your ribs” dish that won’t break the bank. Katsu curry is all about the sauce to accompany the tonkatsu, smothering it in Japanese curry, which came to be when Indian cuisine was introduced to Japan by the British, also dating back to the Meiji era. It’s so popular that Japanese curry is widely considered to be Japan’s national dish. My personal favourite might be the katsu sandwich, which showcases the pork cutlet between two slices of pillowy shoku-pan bread (think Wonderbread on steroids). Not only is it handheld and portable, the durability of the tonkatsu breading means that it doesn’t get soggy in and amongst the katsu sauce and other sandwich toppings.

Katsu sauce itself is also worth mentioning. The closest comparison would be something like British HP sauce. Typically, the ingredients include tomatoes and a mix of fruit purees, like apples, prunes, and dates. You can serve it on the side as a dip, or drizzle it on top, or as a condiment on a katsu sandwich, as described above.

So now that you’re up on everything tonkatsu related, let’s talk about where you can enjoy it across the province. A hidden gem that is well worth the detour is the Wagashi Tea House in Canmore. Located inside the town’s garden centre, it’s a gorgeous, green oasis and is off the beaten path so less likely to be filled with tourists. Their menu changes relatively frequently, so check in advance to make sure tonkatsu is on order, and if it is, enjoy it as a katsu sandwich, or as part of their bento box with pickles, salad, and rice.

In Calgary, there are a number of different katsu joints to check out, some specializing in the dish specifically, and others offering a wider array of Japanese cuisine. Redheads on 11th Avenue SW does katsu curry, katsu sandwiches, and katsu bento boxes, if you’d prefer the pork to shine on its own. Kim’s Katsu is another option, with both Mission and Kensington locations, dishing up their namesake as well as lighter options like sushi. Meanwhile a bit further north in Edmonton, Nara Katsu has been serving their recipe since 1999, and otherwise offers a more Korean-leaning menu laden with favourites from bulgogi to Korean fried chicken.

Whether you eat out or attempt to make it for yourself, tonkatsu is worth adding to the menu thanks to both its approachability and versatility. Enjoy it on its own, in a sandwich, or swimming in curry. Any way you slice it, you’ll affirm what most cultures have known for hundreds of years; you can’t go wrong with a crispy fried pork chop.