Craft Breweries Join the Lager Scene

BY DAVID NUTTALL

In September’s issue, we looked at a variety of European lagers available in the Alberta market. This style of international lager differs from others due to its (usual) lack of adjuncts and its reliance on noble hops to provide the bitterness.

In the beginning (c. 1850), it only came from Europe, but as it migrated to breweries throughout the world, it developed into a whole branch of lagers depending on where it was brewed. In North America, six-row barley replaced the original two-row variant of Europe, with corn and rice becoming common adjuncts. Asian versions favoured rice, Latin American interpretations used corn, and African breweries often employed grains other than barley, preferring millet, sorghum, buckwheat, and others in their recipes. Obviously, these beers all tasted different, and the European lager stayed unique.

That is, until the craft beer movement took to brewing lagers. When originally born in the 1980s, craft breweries debuted with ales, mainly because their entire existence was predicated on making something different from what the big breweries were producing, which was (and still is) almost exclusively lagers. Even so, tiny craft breweries could not and did not want to compete with large consortiums that had a better price point, distribution, and existing market penetration.

Fast forward to the 2000s and craft breweries began to see things differently. Most breweries had now established their core brands, seasonals, and specialty beers; what they lacked was a nice uncomplicated lager. Since they were serving a public that had grown up on mass produced beers (which still holds about 90 percent of the market), it made sense to have at least one lager in their portfolio. However, craft breweries did not have to make exact copies of the standard versions; they had dozens of recipes at their disposal. With no historical precedents to follow, they began to brew a variety of diverse kinds. However, for a public not familiar with doppelbocks and Vienna lagers, there arose a need for something a little less exotic. Here is where craft breweries could brew a lager with their own stamp on it. Make no mistake about it, that unassuming pale yellow, low hopped, fizzy beer is not easy to brew. It takes a precise recipe, more time than an ale, and is less forgiving of any faults. If there are imperfections in the process, off flavours will show up clearly in the final result, so making consistent batches time after time is paramount.

The final product that craft breweries create for this “ordinary” lager does not always fit into a single definable category. Which is fine: many try to emulate the American version, some brew their homage to the European style, while others end up with a hybrid of sorts. What matters is producing a clean, crisp, refreshing beer that goes down nice and easy.

Almost every brewery in the province now makes at least one lager, and each is unique in its own way. Despite being in the same genre, the nuances of each beer make them distinct. Below is a selection from a few Alberta breweries. All hover around 5% ABV and are the classic yellow to golden coloured beer one would expect. If you shy away from craft beers and are only a mainstream beer lover, do not be afraid to give these beers a chance.

Born Get Lucky (Calgary)

Born Brewing goes for the American style of lager; it is as light and easy drinking as they come, with a bit of floral notes to give it character.

CSPC 831716, $16, 6 x 355 mL cans

88 Brewing Cassette Lager (Calgary)

The use of Saaz hops firmly sets this as a European style lager. Its herbal grassy bitterness shines through the bready malt backbone, making this one of the more flavourful lagers brewed in Alberta.

CSPC 895563, $17-18, 4 x 473 mL cans

Origin Sutter Brothers (Strathmore)

Made with malt from a neighbouring farm, this is characterized as a North American lager, meaning it has a lighter body and a subtle hop bitterness.

CSPC 101239, $17, 4 x 473 mL cans

Cold Garden Premium Lager (Calgary)

Noticeably light in body and colour, the use of German and Czech noble hops give a bit of a nod to the classic European style. Expect herbal and floral notes in the finish.

CSPC 132692, $17, 4 x 473 mL cans

Alley Kat 6 O’Clocker (Edmonton)

Light body and colour defines one of the easiest drinking lagers around.

CSPC 899658, $17, 4 x 473 mL cans

Brewsters Original Lager (Calgary)

Described as a “North American/ German hybrid,” its 30 IBUs lands it as probably the hoppiest beer on this list. It is light in body and refreshingly different.

CSPC 102531, $31, 12 x 355 mL cans

Origin Homegrown (Strathmore)

Using their own malt from their Strathmore area farm, it has a slight golden colour with a bit of citrus on the nose and palate for bitterness.

CSPC 877717, $17, 4 x 473 mL cans

New Level Hellion (Calgary)

Another salute to the European lager, with the use of Magnum, Hallertau Blanc, and Saaz hops supplying the herbal/floral bitterness.

CSPC 831056, $13, 4 x 473 mL cans

Town Square Moving Day Lager (Edmonton)

A classic light American style lager that is made for hot days or after strenuous activities.

CSPC 886852, $17, 4 x 473 mL cans

Next month, we will look at what Alberta breweries are producing in other recognizable styles of lagers.