STORY AND PHOTOGRAPH BY RENÉE KOHLMAN

There’s no way to deny that winter is indeed coming. If this thought sends shivers down your spine, or if you gleefully sip on your pumpkin spice latte in anticipation, know that there is no shortage of comfort foods just waiting in the wings for you.

If you’re keen on the rib-sticking, cold-weather comfort food like I am, then you’re in for a treat with this recipe. Taking inspiration from France, and the Alps specifically, Tartiflette is this wondrous potato casserole of sorts (though I doubt the French would call it a casserole) with jammy onions, tender spuds, cream, bacon and a whole pound of melty, gooey, golden-brown cheese. It all sounds fancy, but at its heart, it’s just gussied up peasant food at its finest.

Tartiflette is traditionally made with Reblochon, a washed-rind cow’s milk cheese with an assertive flavour and particular creaminess. It is a difficult cheese to find, but if you do, by all means use it in this recipe. In place of the Reblochon, I used another mountain cheese that melts well - Fontina - but you could use Gruyère also. Camembert came along to this fancy potato party too because I wanted that creamy gooeyness and washed rind look that adds a certain visual appeal to the finished dish.

Seeing as this is a potato dish, it’s important to talk about which spuds to use. Traditionally, in the Savoy region of France (where Reblochon comes from), Tartiflette is made using the la ratte potato, and I’m sure that when the dish is made this way it’s utterly transcendent. But, if all you have is the local market or grocery store, any waxy potato will do. Look for red potatoes, or Yukon Gold. Avoid anything super starchy like a Russet, as it will fall apart. I like the look of the baby potatoes, but you can simply peel and slice potatoes to similar thickness and par boil until barely fork tender.

What I love about this dish is the layers of gorgeous flavour. Like many divine recipes, it all begins with bacon. Once the lardons are cooked but not crispy, they are removed and slices of onion are tossed in that beautiful bacon fat. Fresh thyme leaves join the skillet and the onions are cooked until they soften and slump, with a bit of garlic thrown in for good measure. Add a couple of generous glugs of white wine, which deglazes the pan and makes your kitchen smell like heaven. Add the cooked potatoes and bacon to this onion goodness, then the cream, then the cheese and then slide the skillet into a hot oven.

It really is that simple. Bake the tartiflette until the cheese is melted, golden, bubbly and caramelized around the edge of the pan. It’s really a potato side dish of extreme beauty. Because it’s so rich, serve tartiflette with a nice bright salad with a punchy acidic dressing, and maybe something simple like roast chicken or pork. The potatoes will be the star of the show, as they should be.

Tartiflette

Serves 4

1.1 kg unpeeled baby new potatoes

120 g thick cut bacon, chopped

2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced

1 Tbs fresh thyme leaves

To taste salt and pepper

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ cup (125 mL) dry white wine

½ cup (125 mL) whipping cream

250 g fontina or Gruyère cheese, shredded

250 g Camembert cheese, sliced

1. Preheat the oven to 400º F.

2. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan and add enough water to cover by a few inches. Add a generous pinch of salt and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook until the potatoes are just fork tender, about 10-12 minutes. Drain and let cool.

3. Place a large 30 cm skillet over medium heat and add the chopped bacon. Cook until the bacon is just starting to crisp up, about 5 minutes. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on a paper towel-lined plate.

4. There should be about ¼ cup (60 mL) of bacon fat remaining in the skillet. If not, add a knob or two of butter. When it’s melted, add the onions and thyme to the skillet and season with a generous pinch of salt and freshly ground pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent and softened, about 6 minutes.

5. Stir in the garlic and cook for a further 30 seconds. Pour in the white wine and let it simmer for 2 minutes, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Remove from the heat.

6. Dump the cooked potatoes into the skillet with the onions. Stir in the cooked bacon and the whipping cream. Season with a touch more salt and pepper. Top with the shredded fontina and Camembert.

7. Bake until the cheese is melted, bubbly, golden and caramelized at the edges, about 30-35 minutes. Let the tartiflette rest for five minutes before serving.

To make ahead: Prep the recipe up until the point of topping with cheese. Cover tightly and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before baking.

Note: If you can find Reblochon cheese, by all means use it. You’ll need 454 g, cut into thin strips.