THE MAGAZINE FOR THOSE THAT HEAR THE CALL OF THE SEA
LIVING IN
CruisingOutpost.com
PARADISE PORTUGUESE KNOCKDOWN
JESSIE & LUKE GO FOR A SWIM HOW TO HANDLE A
HURRICANE FIVE SUNSCREEN MYTHS From the Creators of
BOAT SPOTLIGHT Winter 2018-19
Issue #25
MAINE CAT 38 CATALINA 425 EASTBAY 44
U.S. $9.99 - Canada $10.99
pg 001 Cover #25 editedbySue.indd 1
11/1/18 3:19 PM
Attitudes
Middle age is when you choose your cereal for the fibre, not the toy.
By Bob Bitchin
I was getting ready to cast off on my first long voyage. I could tell, because I kept coming up with excuses not to go. It was a lot of years ago, but I can still recall how I would try to rationalize not leaving. There was no doubt that I wanted to cruise. I had read the books by Triston Jones, the Pardeys, and Herb Payson. I very much wanted to go and live those adventures. But I also was pretty attached to the comforts of living in California. I had a pretty idyllic life. I was 35 years old and lived in a beautiful marina only a block from a beach where some of the most beautiful women in the world came to play. I had a lot of friends and life was good. Sitting below decks on the original Lost Soul, I had mentally backed out of taking off a few times. Negative thoughts would hit me at the oddest times. What about storms? Every book I read about long-distance cruising had storms. The weather here was great. What about breaking things out at sea? If I break something here all I have to do is drop a hook—and I can get whatever parts I need immediately. Also, I could always call the Coast Guard if I got into trouble (it was a long time ago, back when the Coast Guard was for our safety, not National Security!). And convenience? How kewl is it to get anything you need just about any time you want it? Amazon rules! I’d read about how shopping could be a major ordeal when you were “out there.” Back then, at the end of the seventies, a lot of my friends were getting ready to take off cruising. So I set the date. I decided no matter where I was with the boat, I was going to sail down to Mexico on November 1! I fought hard against the departure. The only thing I can attribute to the fact that I actually left the dock was a perseverance that was ingrained in me when I used to ride my Harley across the country a couple times a year. A couple of the women I was dating back then (this was long before meeting Jody) did everything they could do to try
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and talk me out of going “out there.” They said I’d be killed, I’d get sick drinking the water in foreign ports, or I’d catch some kind of disease. (I know what they were thinking!) But I stuck doggedly to my plans. They called me obstinate and stubborn; I looked at it as having perseverance. The difference, I think, is that perseverance is a case of “will do,” while obstinancy is a case of “won’t do.” I prefer the positive. When I look at the majority of people I meet sailing, I would say the vast majority plan on someday cutting the dock lines and sailing off into the sunset. It’s been a dream for people as long as I can remember. The funny thing is, after 35 years of living on and around boats, I find that a very small percentage ever end up actually doing it. Actually leaving. The reasons are plentiful, but for the most part are based on money, or the lack of same, or the spouse not wanting to go—and these are grave obstacles to overcome. But the reality is, at every stage of your life, there are two things you can do. The decision you make on which of the two roads you will follow ends up creating what your life becomes. When you were in school you had two choices: to work hard or not. If you chose work hard, you soon had two choices: college or the work force. After that choice you looked at marriage, or not, and step by step you created the place in life where you are sitting right now. It’s not complicated, just one choice at a time. I often look back down my life’s road and wonder where I’d be if I had made one decision differently. Would I be me? Would I be the same person? And if not, who would I be? The decision I made those 30 years ago changed my life. That I know. Was it for better or for worse? Who knows! And what’s more important, who cares? Have a life’s plan? Going to head out? Just remember, it may be easier not to do something than to do it. But, which is more fulfilling?
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10/31/18 11:12 AM
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Cruising Outpost 9
11/2/18 2:35 PM
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11/1/18 3:22 PM
A By Jessie Zevalkink-Yeats
heavy wall of black water smashes into my back. I’ve never felt anything so heavy. It presses me forward with a wicked force. I have no memory of my body tumbling through mid-air but I must be flying up and over the helm, just missing the winches on leeward side, breaking straight through the lifelines, and shredding the lee cloth at the seams. I open my eyes underwater. Fully submerged. I see bright green and bubbles lit by my headlamp. Everything past those lit bubbles is black. Cold. Silent. In my full foul weather kit, I am a weightless astronaut.
We’ve just capsized.
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Cruising Outpost 13
11/1/18 3:22 PM
Portuguese
I appreciate that since ships have sailed, they have been knocked down. There are countless capsizes recorded, and just as many unaccounted for versions of this story. The first time you get knocked down, you don’t forget it. The lessons learnt are significant. I share mine with caution as many sailors have experienced far worse. For some, a single knockdown may be minute when compared to the rest of their story. Our version is not to be over-dramatized. It is not written to intimidate, to put off, nor to have the most epic bar story. It is a scenario every ocean sailor avoids at all costs. With that said, I have had a hard time putting it down on paper, as I am over-cautious about other sailors picking apart our decision-making and seamanship. I’ve narrated my piece exactly as I remember it alongside Luke’s technical notes that he wrote 24 hours after the fact. L u k e : Passage from La Coruna, Spain, to Lagos,
Portugal: 450 nautical miles. April 6, 2018. Mazu downloaded forecast 15-37 knots W-NW for whole sailing area. Three days in, Tuesday afternoon progress good. Weather as predicted. Tuesday sunset watch, winds increasing. Large squalls in excess of 40 knots. Luke on deck dropping staysail when Jessie clocked first 49-knot squall at 20:00. Winds easing thereafter. 30-40 knots with less squalls, which were less violent, roughly as predicted. Sailing with “Trepassy reef`” (smaller than a third reef, not tacked or clewed, resting on lazy jacks) Boat speed reduced from max surf of 13.7 knots to approximately 10 knots. Squalls continue until watch change at 01:00. Luke on watch. Hydrovane begins to struggle with large quartering stern waves. Wave pattern consistent. Hand steering assist. One accidental gybe by Jessie,
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arrested by preventer, no broach, just re-gybe back onto starboard. Taking 20-minute shifts at the helm, air temp approximately 12 degrees C. Both sailors on deck in light of rough sea state. Lifejackets on, tethered in cockpit. Boat requires constant helm input to hold course to waves, typical for this boat in rough seas. Boat on edge, but under control. Progress good. Both sailors good. Sea state remains consistent. GPS logged position 37° 4.2′ north, 9° 9.3′ west, heading of 150, TWA (true wind angle) 150-160, at 01:21 a max speed of 16.4 knots recorded, dropping shortly after (26 seconds) to 2.6 knots. This is when the wave struck approximately 90 degrees to course, at 240 degrees. It’s 60 degrees further to the right than the existing and consistent wave pattern over the starboard beam. J e s s i e : We don’t roll all the way over. We don’t even do a 180. Still, the violence of being www.cruisingoutpost.com
11/1/18 3:23 PM
Knock Down chucked over the side has me very disoriented. It’s only a matter of seconds—15, 20 max. One could call these life-defining seconds. Desirée rights herself and I’m hoisted back into the cockpit. It was only 30 minutes ago I couldn’t find my tether and had bowlined myself using a spare line. This piece of string just saved my life and I recognize immediately I would be long gone if it weren’t for it. I think I will mount it on my wall back home. It’s black with red stripes; it might look nice in my kitchen. Heavy and waterlogged, I’m trying to figure out how to get fully aboard the boat. My upper half is folded onto the leeward after deck, my lower half still in the sea and dragging. It’s true, you gain super powers when adrenaline kicks in. I hoist my lower half over the side and feel but am not hampered by the hulking weight of my gear. The sky is a pool of cloudy black ink. I don’t see Luke. I scream for him in sheer terror that he has gone overboard. It’s the kind of shriek you don’t ever want to release. I panic. This is a sailor’s worst nightmare. He grips my arm. He’s here. He’s right here. We’re okay. He helps me to my feet. I look up to see the rig still intact. He asks if I’m injured. I say no. Even if I was I wouldn’t recognize it now. I ask him if he’s injured. He says no. I don’t know what to say or do so I grab his face and kiss him. Hard. I don’t yet comprehend the gravity of the situation. Breathing is heavy. Voice is shaky. He checks me back into reality, asking me to look in the bilge. I wipe the salt from my eyes and get to work. L u k e : The boat heeled beyond 90 degrees, likely up to 110 or 120 degrees, borne witness by vertical movement of interior objects and removal of mast head instruments. Wave hit sailors directly from behind. No visibility or warning of its arrival. Both crew thrown to leeward and submerged completely. Jessie washed through
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Cruising Outpost 15 11/1/18 3:23 PM
Portuguese
guard rail with enough force to rip the leeward weather cloth from its attachments. Tether stayed connected. Luke (helming at the time of wave strike) thrown over top of the wheel and binnacle, landing on the leeward side cockpit combing completely submerged. Tether stayed connected. Boat knocked down for approximately 15 seconds then self-righted, dragging Jessie back into the boat. Somehow crew had switched positions for and aft after recovery. J e s s i e : We work efficiently, and prioritized our safety. The dodger’s been ripped off at its seams, leaving the steel frame intact and no cockpit protection. The once-secured flexible solar panel flaps violently. I cut it off and chuck it below. The GPS is dislodged from its mount on the dodger frame, chords ripped out. We lie a-hull and let the sea take us while we inspect the damage. I approach the companionway where we had only one hatch board in—our first big mistake. I take one step into the cabin and there is no place to plant my foot. The ladder’s been dislodged and strewn across the leeward berth. I cautiously climb down and am amazed by where things have landed. L u k e : Squalls eased with max winds 38 knots, but averaging 30kts which felt very comfortable compared to earlier conditions. Large quartering waves causing steering issues. A quick check of the boat confirmed the rig intact, sails intact. Inspecting interior confirmed bilge full of water, several items floating, and much of interior thrown to leeward, including many heavy objects like floorboards and 7-gallon jerry can of water. Leeward berth would have been a dangerous place for crew member during the knockdown.
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First actions were leaving the boat lying a-hull and placing the Edson bilge pump downstairs (1 gallon per stroke). Biggest concern was another knockdown, leaving enough water to flood batteries and engine. Water was cleared within 20-30 minutes with confirmation no further ingress. Made Pan-Pan call on channel 16. No response. J e s s i e : Everything on the starboard side had been hurled to the port. Shit. Is. Everywhere. The OCD-side of me is in hysteria at the sight of everything out of place and drenched. The heavily weighted floorboard flew to the port side top bunk. Unopened cans of AWLgrip and West Systems were chucked out of a secured cabinet across the saloon. The 7-gallon jerry can of water had relocated itself to the top of the stove. The full bilge was spilling over onto the floor. I pick my Canon 5D out of the highest part of the bilge and say a little prayer. The suctioned ice box lid had flown open and now the contents of our “fridge” paint the interior. Mystifyingly, the carton of eggs remains inside and is unharmed. I climb back into the cockpit. This is comparable to climbing a tree that is getting blown over while wearing your snow suit. I set to digging out the Edson “Pump on a Board.” With great difficulty, I pull everything out of the lazarette and am at last able to access it. I clearly remember mounting this pump in a very strategic place back in Michigan. Now I was wishing we would have just glued it to the damn floor down below. It’s awkward and heavy. I drop it through the companionway—I don’t have enough appendages to do it with grace—and it smacks the galley floor, leaving a dent www.cruisingoutpost.com
11/1/18 3:23 PM
Knock Down as predicted. One hose in the bilge and the other out the companionway, Luke primes the pump. The hose begins to snake around as the weight of the water and miscellaneous bilge debris sifts through. One pump at a time, we empty the flooded basement. It’s confirmed that we are not taking on any more water. Desirée remains in a relatively calm state lying a-hull. L u k e : Sailing is resumed with less than third reef only. Holding steady course. No reaction from steering wheel, rudder missing or disconnected. Engine started and helped us with steerage. Using Hydrovane self steering rudder to bear us away onto course again. we’re 20 nm from the lee of the headland. This decision was taken as the lee of the headland was near, and conditions were not worsening. Lying a-hull or heaving to any longer would have put us into nearby TSS shipping lane without the ability to track AIS movement after cockpit mounted screen was damaged by force of wave dislodging the mount and removal of masthead instruments to communicate over VHF. Engine stopped. Air in fuel lines. J e s s i e : Luke sits at the stern, steering this 9-ton boat with the Hydrovane like he’s driving a dinghy. It’s working. A standard-sized bilge pump handle fits securely into the mini-emergency tiller providing just enough leverage to hold course. It’s not a pleasant place to be. He gets smashed with wave spray, over and over. I stand just inside the companionway, anxiously awaiting my turn. The adrenaline that kept me warm for the first hour has worn off. I’m trembling and I wear the Atlantic Ocean as my outfit. I keep scanning the interior, again and again, awed by the violence of a single wave’s redecorating. It’s shocking. I keep making Pan-Pan calls as this is a high traffic area, just in case any ships can receive our call and are aware we are struggling to hold a course. No response. We don’t need any help. Yet. In fact, I don’t know if I’m mentally categorizing this as an emergency or an “oh shit” moment at this time. But, if another wave knocks us over, we’re going to need help. It feels like we are completely alone. The truth is, we are. L u k e : Both sailors very wet. With wind chill 10 degree C, hypothermia was likely. Having to hand steer from the transom with lots of spray. No dry clothing remaining down below, and 4 hours until sunrise, we again did 20 minute shifts with Hydrovane emergency tiller in between going down below to warm up. Wind remains consistent 35 to 40. www.cruisingoutpost.com
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J e s s i e : Luke musters up the courage to peel off his soaking layers and replace them with what semi-dry gear is left in the closet on his 20 minutes off. I repeat after him and feel a thousand times better. Changing out of wet clothes is a much more difficult task than one would think. I return to the stern to helm; it feels arctic, dramatic, and down-right miserable. We are so close to the protection of the headland. I line myself up with the lights ashore and steer. I tuck my face into my collar, squinting. The guiding lights become blurry neon lines. Luke shoves everything off the stove and boils water. He delivers me hot chocolate, which greatly improves my moral. Game changer. Three hours later, that glow at the end of the earth we’ve been dying to see turns into an orange sliver. The sun appears as if a kid had cut it out of orange construction paper and glued it to the sky. I picture the kid who cut it out sitting just below the horizon and pushing it up himself. It’s bold. It’s mesmerizing artwork. I can feel its warmth already. The seas are easing as we turn around the headland and the seagulls play games in the lee of our sails. The seagulls are having so much fun. I stare at them to distract me from my physical discomfort and they remind of the ability to make fun out of a shitty situation. The piece of orange construction paper forms a perfect circle and the surrounding sky is a sure sign of safety. We sail to Lagos Harbor entrance and drop the anchor. Go about replacing fuel filters and bleeding air from the lines. Start cleaning up mess. Sleep. The conclusion for potential knock-down prevention is as follows. We could have done one of three things. One, hove to on port tack until daylight when boat started to struggle with following sea. Two, drogue over the stern to slow the boat. Three, never left the harbor. I peel off my layers in the sunshine. The cockpit is so warm. The anchor secures us to planet earth. The breeze tickles the mop of hair on top of my head. I have a glass of wine for brunch. I tell Luke that I thought he was gone. I thought I was alone. I tell him I could have never done that without him. We run through all the what-ifs as you do after a traumatic experience. It’s only been 12 hours, yet I am able to recognize this as one of the greatest moments of my life. A significant exercise. I don’t regret leaving the last port. My retrospect quickly allows me to see this as an exceptionally important lesson for me and Luke. Cruising Outpost 17 11/1/18 3:23 PM
Pass the Spinach “Another thing I got is a sensk of humiligration. Now, maybe you swabs can pool your intelligensk and sees that I’m axsking you for an apologeky.” - Popeye the Sailor
Sunsail Joins Cruising Outpost
When we first started having the Cruisers’ Parties at boat shows over 20 years ago, we were joined by Sunsail as our major sponsor. Well, they are back! And, they also have offered a Sunsail Charter as the Grand Prize for the raffle we hold at our events. The next party will be at the Miami International Boat Show on Virginia Key in Miami on February 16th. As always, the party is free for all who attend the show. It’s a great chance to meet the people who make the boats and gear you use, in a social agenda! Be sure to join us in Miami in February, and in Richmond, California at the Pacific Sail Expo Cruisers’ Party April 6th!
22 Cruising Outpost
pg 21-35 Outpost News.indd 2
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11/5/18 5:19 PM
National Sailing Hall of Fame Moves to Newport
The National Sailing Hall of Fame of Annapolis, MD, has a new home. It hopes to welcome visitors to its new location in the Armory building in Newport, RI by May, 2020, before the summer tourist season begins. The board of directors voted to relocate the Hall of Fame to the Armory building, and the Newport City Council approved a purchase-andsales agreement to sell most of the Armory on lower Thames Street to the Sailing Hall of Fame.
Why Sail?
“Sailing a boat calls for quick action, a blending of feeling with the wind and water as well as with the very heart and soul of the boat itself. Sailing teaches alertness and courage, and gives in return a joyousness and peace that but few sports afford.” - George Matthew Adams
The Next Generation of Cruising Guides - Digital!
Following on the success of their Sail Fiji app, Sail South Pacific is introducing their brand new app-based Sail New Zealand Cruising Guide. Issue 1 is a comprehensive guide for all the great cruising areas in New Zealand – from the top of the South Island (Nelson / Marlborough), to the top of the North Island (the rest of the South Island is coming in issue 2). It includes planning advice, routes, waypoints, anchorages, passage transits, cautions, facilities, activities, hundreds of photos, dozens of Sky Viewvideos and much more. It’s available on iOS devices (iPad Mini (2, 3, 4), iPad (Air to iPad Pro)) and is downloaded as a Free Planning app with in-app purchases for the various regions.
How Smart Are You? INTELLIGENCE IS TH3 A51LITY 70 4D4P7 2
CHANGE www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 21-35 Outpost News.indd 3
Cruising Outpost 23
11/5/18 5:21 PM
How to Handle H Season While C in the C
46 Cruising Outpost
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WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
10/30/18 9:16 AM
Hurricane Cruising Caribbean
From January to July, peak Caribbean cruising season, cruisers can be found traveling from port to port, enjoying the invariably pleasant winds and settled weather. But, as the hurricane season approaches, cruisers abandon coastal waters for a safer destination. They travel to Guatemala up the Rio Dulce (an inland river) to the destination of Fronteras. It doesn’t get much better than supper in the jungle!
By Rene Yapp
Entertainment
Since many of the cruisers are retired, they have the energy and time to promote the arts. Every week there is a wealth of musicians sharing their talents in a variety of locations. Several of the marinas offer dinner, and a popcorn and movie night. The marinas even send out their lanchas to pick up and return the movie patrons to their respective locations. The marinas are always seeking ways to bring clients to their site. If you have a need or a clever idea, most marinas are willing to organize an event to accommodate your wishes. There are various tours that are offered accordingly to pique your interest. Over the morning net, it was possible to sign up for a zip line course and lunch at a local restaurant. And so, as new cruisers become part of the scene in the area, there will be refreshing opportunities for new experiences. WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
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Cruising Outpost 47
10/30/18 9:20 AM
Why is it Safe?
Statistically, the likelihood of a hurricane in this area is very low. Fronteras is the city that is at the hub of this cruising community. Here, the boats benefit from the protection of the mountains from the full force of the winds. Since the location is 65 feet above sea level, a surge from the ocean is very unlikely. The only effect of the hurricane season, according to the locals, is a lot of rain. Safe and secure berths are essential for most cruisers. Many people leave their boats for months at a time as they escape from the heat and rain while they continue their travels or go back home for a visit. Most of the marinas have security on duty round the clock, with the result that theft is very unlikely.
Reasonable Dockage
Another great benefit of this area is that the cost of monthly dockage is very reasonable. Many marinas charge between $220 to $300 US monthly. In many areas of the Caribbean, it is difficult to find prices that beat this rate.
Service and Repairs
Several of the marinas here are able to complete excellent restorations or modifications to your boat while you are away. Do you need repairs made to your sails or canvas? How about bottom work or deck repair? You can easily find all these services here. In general, the fees for the jobs are very reasonable as well. While you can visit the repair shops yourself, many of them will send workers to your boat to perform their services. There is even a Raymarine technician in the area to solve your more technical issues, or to service any warranty claims you may have.
Dealing with Local Authorities
When you talk to cruisers about their stay at the Rio Dulce, it is inevitable that they will mention Raoul. He will act as an agent to assist with checking in your boat and crew to the country. His knowledge of the local system is extensive as he is an ex-Customs officer for Guatemala. As the demand for his services grows, he has hired other individuals to assist him in this business. All of his staff are well-trained and ready to help you with every aspect of entering the country. Once again, the service is available at a reasonable expense. Raoul not only works with you when you enter the country, but he has regularly scheduled visits to Fronteras, where he will complete the required extensions of your permits to allow your boat to remain in the country all hurricane season. We were utterly gratified with the ease of the entire process. In several other places, we had some anxious moments with the authorities as they informed us that our paperwork was lacking despite our best efforts to comply with all of the regulations.
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10/30/18 9:21 AM
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pg 46-49R Hurricane handling - editedbySue.indd 5
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Cruising Outpost 49
10/30/18 9:21 AM
Welcome Back
Cruising Outpost’s February 2nd Reserve Early This Will Fill Fast!
This is a by-the-cabin flotilla Share The Sail event. We supply the catamarans, food, fuel, insurance, and a staff member. Everyone shares the piloting, navigation, cooking, sailing, and events.
Come and sail the most popular sailing grounds on Earth!
Don’t Dream Your Life... ...Live Your Dream Live Music 58 Cruising Outpost
pg 58-59 Share The Sail BVI ad .indd 2
With The fun staff and crew at Cruising Outpost. See what the cruising lifestyle is REALLY like! WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
11/4/18 4:26 PM
T
“ T
d
To The BVIs
“SHARE THE SAIL” Thru 9th, 2019 Join Bob and Jody and the family and friends of Cruising Outpost welcoming the BVIs “back online!” Spend 7 days and nights cruising the beautiful British Virgin Islands. We will have events with live music, drinks and pupus at a number of cruiser hangouts and join with other cruiser’s to Welcome Back The BVIs
All boats are catamarans and offer double cabins with en suite heads.
Wanna See About Joining Us?
www.cruisingoutpost.com/sharethesail Email: Jody@cruisingoutpost.com 510-900-3616
WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
pg 58-59 Share The Sail BVI ad .indd 3
Cruising Outpost 59
11/4/18 4:27 PM
s m a e r D Do
e m Co e u r T By Koa Cladianos
I’m sitting under the stars, 70 miles outside of Bora Bora, aboard Scallywag, a Beneteau Oceanis 55 inbound to Palmerston, Cook Islands. It is 5:40 a.m. and the sun’s rays have just begun to illuminate the horizon. The full light spectrum is in view. A deep red meeting the sea leads all the way to a mellow violet that connects with the diminishing night’s stars. I begin to ponder how I made it to such a magnificent place. One year ago the Cook Islands were just a name that would catch my eye as I casually looked at a world map. Now they would be the next land I saw after nearly a 700-mile
pg 80-83 Koa Starts An Adventure - editedbySue.indd 2
11/2/18 9:53 AM
Quiet-Smooth operation Low wind energy production Marine grade - 5 yr warranty 12-24-48V / 13 lbs 165,000 installed since 1995 Made in the USA
passage. Only yesterday I spoke with the chief about what goods he may need us to bring from French Polynesia (a tip we had read about on noonsite.com). Now we are carrying 80 kilograms of sugar and 50 packs of tobacco for the island’s 60 inhabitants. Back in November 2016, getting ready to go to my first Arizona Yacht Club meeting, I Cruising Outpost 81
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asked myself, “What does one wear to a yacht club?” After a quick Google search, I decided on a polo shirt. At 21 years old, and determined to find a way to sail around the world, I was grateful to be welcomed into the club with open arms. However, following the conversations was a challenge. Was there a difference between a jibe and gybe? A boom and halyard? Were these all English words? Surely not! “Fake it till you make it,” I thought! It was a successful night, as I was invited to crew in a race coming up in a couple months. In the meantime I would take an ASA adult learnto-sale course. It was a calm winter morning on the banks of Tempe town lake. Our instructor Victor was going around the room asking everyone why they wanted to take this course. I was sitting in the back and one of the last to share. My response to the question: “I want to sail around the world.” There seemed to be a bit of staleness in the air; maybe it was comical disbelief that I felt from the room. This was my dream they were dismissing, but I paid them no attention. I fell in love that day on the lake. I can clearly remember the first time I took the tiller under the smooth power of the wind. My ancestry is Greek and Hawaiian, so in this moment I thought of my ancestors and their infamous sailing reputations. It was a truly magical experience. I was hooked. After the course, Victor said that if I really wanted to sail the world, then first I needed to learn how to fix a boat. Well, he really said, “A monkey can sail, but it can’t fix a boat.” He and his good friend Bruce had just started a sailing school, Tiller and Kites. He told me to give him a call in about a month and he would think of a way that he could help me along on my journey. I let out a sigh of relief as someone actually paid attention to my sailing aspirations. The next time I spoke with Victor he said I could come work at the yard. They would teach me how to fix an old Cal 21, and in return it would be mine!
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Shortly after my graduation from Arizona State University in May 2017, there I was in possibly the only boat yard in the metro Phoenix area. My plan was to learn as much as I could at Tiller and Kites then head to Miami, where I would use my new skills to find a position as crew and head out onto the ocean. Throughout the 120-degree summer in Arizona, the Cal 21 underwent some major upgrades. The inside layers of mud and dust were removed. The cabin was painted. All the wood that could be saved was sanded and revarnished. The other pieces were remade. Rigging was supplied from many combinations of spare pieces from around the yard. Everyday was a new lesson. Some days I would spend at the lake (actually sailing!), while others would be in the yard working on my boat or others that came into the shop. During lunch we would talk about racing strategies or the uses of the different knots. I felt like sailing’s version of the Karate Kid. Over time, less and less of these sailing words sounded foreign. I was starting to become a sailor! I went back to my home in Reno, Nevada for three months where I hired a friend to help me paint houses. When I had saved up enough money I headed back to Phoenix. After seeing the blog of Katie and Jessie, of katieandjessieonaboat.com and Cruising Outpost fame, I was more than inspired. We decided that Miami was not the best idea, that instead I should take the Cal 21 and give the inland rivers of the Great Loop a shot. Tiller and Kites would even supply a Nissan 9.8 outboard to go with the boat. It would give me an interesting story and an experience I could only get on my own boat. I always had my bearing set on open-ocean cruising, but this would get me there—I knew it! I printed some business cards and started my YouTube channel. I figured this would help me meet other cruisers, and show them I was serious. Since I didn’t know exactly how this trip could translate to my ocean expedition as a crew member, I figured every edge helped. I decided to name my boat Cladi Kai, which means “Cladianos to the sea.” Kai is Hawaiian for sea. November 18, 2017—the day the journey began. Cladi Kai was securely latched behind my Penske truck, ready to be towed across the country to Grand Rivers, Kentucky. Looking at my new boat all supplied and ready to go made my imagination run wild. Where would this journey take me? Tiller and Kites had one more gift to give. They had talked to their sponsor, Mauri Pro Sailing, and Mauri Pro agreed to sponsor my trip! On the way I would stop in Dallas and pick up some sailing gear! Let the adventure begin! www.cruisingoutpost.com
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Lifestyle A Look at Why We Do What We Do
Ever wondered why people love the boating lifestyle? Well, here in the Lifestyle section, folks from all over the world give an insight into what it’s really like out there. If you have a photo you think tells a good tale, why not send it to us? We prefer you send a digital pic, in as high resolution as you can. Tell us who took the pic and where it was taken. We will probaby throw it into our “digital pile” and pull it out someday. We won’t send you any money, but you will be famous worldwide! Email to: Lifestyle@Cruisingoutpost.com.
By Debbie Kolod, sailing in Cuba
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Photo is taken from and by s/v Vata of Ontario, Canada that became disabled (rudder failure) during their Pacific Ocean crossing. s/v Vata was towed under sail by the Canadian sailing catamaran Element for 6 days across 680 NM of open ocean to safe harbor in Hiva, Oa
By Terry Hogan, Common Sense in the Dismal Swamp
By John Simpson, Airisalg
By Will, rainbow over Yorktown, VA
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By Carol, taken at Pirate’s Cove in Josephine, AL
By Cindy Holden Continent to Continent! Tenacity arrives at the Portugal coast!
By Todd Townsend, of his new Albin Vega 27 coming home to Muskeegon from Milwaukee
By Vinnie, of Bobbie Vurro chillin on the hook in Key West, FL
Of Cheryl sailing into port from Lake Michigan
What are flat-earthers afraid of? The only thing they fear is sphere itself.
Tara and Emma, Ft. Myers Beach, Florida
By Sailor Dave in the Exumas www.cruisingoutpost.com
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Cruising the West Gales, Fog, Otters, Whales & Redwoods It Doesn’t Get Any Better!! by Suzy Carmody, s/v Distant Drummer
Port Angeles, Washington
Santa Barbara, California
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Coast
It was one of the coldest winters on record in southern British Columbia. In June 2016 we had sailed across from Hawaii to Sitka in southeast Alaska aboard Distant Drummer, our Liberty 458 sloop. After enjoying a summer of leisurely cruising through the Inside Passage in Alaska and British Columbia, we reached Canoe Cove on Vancouver Island where we had decided to haul out for the winter. All through the winter we were living on board and, as we shovelled snow off the decks and slithered across the ice to the washrooms, it was dreams of hot sunny California days that kept us going. We were waiting for a big fat high to settle in the northeast Pacific, which would provide a steady northerly wind for the passage south. Our plan was to spend the summer following the sun southward down the California coast.
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Gales, Fog, Otters, Whales & Redwoods
and is the site of the Ozette Village which was buried by a mudslide in 1560. Nothing was known of the village until a storm in 1970 which exposed some of the remains and archaeologists have since uncovered six long houses. The story and numerous artifacts are displayed in the Makah Museum in the village. Boats heading south tend to gather in Neah Bay to re-fuel, to discuss the weather and the best route to take, and to wait for the right weather to leave. There are two strategies for heading south. The inshore route is prone to coastal hazards, such as crab pots, fog, and heavy shipping, but enables visits to ports in Washington and Oregon along the way. The offshore route (60–100 nautical miles offshore) is the faster passage; it has stronger winds and higher seas, but adds extra miles to the voyage. Many of the harbors on the Washington coast have bar entrances which are treacherous when a big Pacific swell rolls in from the west. We were interested in visiting some of these ports but they are often closed during bad weather and it’s not uncommon to be locked in for several days. We were keen to see some of that California sunshine, so we rounded Cape Flattery and headed offshore.
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No matter how hard you try, you can’t baptize cats.
Marmaris For The Winter By Chuck & Patty Ritenour/Ridgway on s/v SoulMates
The Marmaris fishing fleet
W
e have spent 11 years underway on our Jeanneau DS40, SoulMates, as full-time liveaboard cruisers. Having sailed both sides of the Caribbean, and now the Mediterranean, we have had to spend a lot of time in marinas waiting out hurricane season or, like now, winter in the Mediterranean. A lot of time and effort goes into researching a marina that fits our needs instead of one that is convenient or someone has recommended. Several cruising friends have suggested various marinas for various reasons, from a large cruiser community to weather to marina amenities. But, as former business professionals, we put our training to work and come up with a list of criteria that a marina should meet and what
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our priorities are before we contacted them. What are the differences you ask? The criteria are based on amenities we always want in a marina, whereas the priorities change year-to-year, based on our needs. Our first criterion is a central location. We like to travel in the winter—whether it’s around the country we are staying in, flying home to see family, or visiting other countries. So, we want access to an international airport and public transportation. We could of course rent a car, but would prefer not to; and, we really like to travel by bus to both see the countryside and meet some wonderful people. By the way, we have never been disappointed by friendliness of the people we meet.
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Second, we want a location that is warm. We have a small electric heater for the boat that makes life aboard livable during cold spells, but prefer to use it as little as possible. Third, the town should be neither too large nor too small. We also want a marina to be located close enough to the downtown that we could walk there whenever we wanted. Fourth, the marina has to have a good haul-out facility with qualified, experienced workmen and good chandleries. We try to keep SoulMates in first class condition! Fifth, the security for both the boat and crew must be assured. There are times when we will leave the boat for inland travel and we want to make sure the boat is safe and secure when bad weather hits. We have learned that the good marinas have dock workers that are out during bad weather, checking dock lines, and making sure boats are secure. In all our cruising years we have never had anything taken from SoulMates—and we don’t tempt fate. Sixth, there should be good medical facilities nearby. Both members of the crew are over 70 and get yearly eye exams, biannual dermatology Farmers market with and dental visits, fresh strawberries the as well as a general whole year medical checkups. Finally, we would like a liveaboard community. It is nice to have people around who share this incredible lifestyle that we can learn from and share with. Our major priorities change from year to year. They have gone from safety and security, to a downtown location, to major boat work, to a close airport for flying back to the U.S.A. Each year we look at where we will be and what we really need to determine what is critical. We based our marina stays for our previous two winters in Turkey on our criteria, and had not expected to use them for a third. But, 2017 was one of those years long-term cruisers dread: when everything goes wrong.
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Marmaris Bazaar We had meltimi winds—the famous, northeast winds that come from over the Aegean sea—that just would not end, leaving us to sit for days on end in protected anchorages or harbors. A leak developed on the backside of the engine’s heat exchanger that we kept trying to fix, but just kept growing. We hit something in the water in Crete that broke a blade off our Bunton Autoprop. And, finally, as we sailed from Rhodes to Marmaris, one of our thru-hulls broke, but fortunately above the ball valve. As we sailed into Marmaris we called Netsel Marina, informing them of our arrival, our problem, and our need for a haul out. They were quite concerned and asked if it was a severe emergency. When we responded that it was not, they directed us to first go to the Customs dock, then call when we finished so they could do an immediate lift. Once SoulMates was in the sling, the marina suggested SailMarmaris for our repairs. Their worker came over
Big yachts parked for winter with resturants behind and, with Chuck’s help, changed the thru-hull while Patty went to the office to make arrangements for a short stay. As we watched SoulMates being relaunched, we discussed the year, our problems, and the stresses we had experienced all year. With the end of the sailing season coming quickly, we decided to call it a year. But, was Netsel Marina in Marmaris what we wanted? In the past, several of our friends had suggested Marmaris as a place we should spend winter. We discussed our priorities for the winter, with our top priority as the maintenance and repair of SoulMates. There are two big marinas in Marmaris: one at the end of the bay that is a 30-minute minibus ride from town, and one a 10-minute walk to town. Although the one at the end of the bay cost about 30-40% less, it had limited amenities and was further from town. Getting to town would cost approximately $2 USD each round trip during
Sunset in Marmaris
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The fairway in Netsel Marina the day, but later in the evening when busses stopped it was a $10 cab ride. Also, some of the contractors charged more to work in that marina. We like to get off the boat to just walk around for exercise, unscheduled shopping, and a quick stop at a pub or a meal out. While initially less expensive, the marina at the end of the bay would cost almost as much as the closer one and make our winter much less enjoyable. Getting back to our criteria and priorities, we decided that Marmaris met most of what we wanted. First, of course, were the technicians and ability to get qualified workmen to repair SoulMates, and both marinas met those criteria. Second was safety and security. We were impressed with the concern Netsel showed when we came in with a broken seacock. Meliha Yankulov, the office manager, not only arranged for the emergency haul out as well as a qualified technician to help Chuck replace the
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SoulMates coming out of the water for an emergency repair
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Balloon ride over Cappadocia seacock, but actually came out to make sure everything went as planned. It turns out she is a wealth of information and wants to work with you. Turkey is a very old country. Ever since the world’s first sailor, Noah, parked his boat here, people have been coming and leaving their mark. We wanted to see as much of it as feasibly possible and Marmaris allowed us to do that. Great bus service takes you anywhere in Turkey, but if you are in a hurry then an international airport is nearby. For the times when a car is required, there is a car rental company in Netsel. They worked with us to make an impromptu trip to central Turkey to see the fields of roses, the whirling dervish, and take a balloon ride in Cappadocia. There are also daily ferry boats to Greece, so getting around is not an issue. Marmaris is not a large town. It has a year-round population of 28,000 people that can exceed 200,000 in the summer, along with a large expat community. From Netsel you can walk anywhere, anytime. It was quite fun exploring each neighborhood and finding new places to shop, such as the import store that sold pork products, finding good red and white butchers, and let’s not forget the twice-a-week farmers market with fresh citrus and veggies that would make any U.S.A. grocery store look tiny in comparison. With a city the size of Marmaris, the local hospital has all the specialists one might need. It was close enough to either marina, but we could walk from Netsel. When Chuck was referred to an eye specialist at the university hospital in Mugla, an hour minibus ride away, it was quick and easy. We were not sure if either marina had a viable liveaboard community, so we had to discount that criterion. In the end, both marinas met our first priority, repairing SoulMates. But, Netsel had everything we wanted from
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since seating will be limited. Everyone is welcome. The event will be from noon to 3pm. The event is sponsored by the Fort Myers Beach Anchorage Advisory Committee. For information on
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What a concept! a great haul-out facility, to qualified boat technicians, multiple chandlers that were a 10-minute walk away, and a big Sanayi (a light industrial area that may be able to make what you could not buy) that we could walk to anytime we wanted. It was our ability to walk from chandlery to chandlery to compare prices and get what we wanted when we wanted it, without taking a bus or taxi to get Banana tree outside the bulky parts back to the boat, marina security gate that sold us on Netsel. The next priority was the safety and security; we were really impressed with Netsel’s. Not only with the roving patrols, but the constant challenge of anyone trying to enter the marina. There can be strong west-southwest winter winds, so we were pleased to watch Netsel dock workers adding lines to various boats before the winds hit. 20 March 2016 S O U T H W I N D S The real priority, for Patty, was her ability to get off the boat whenever she wanted so she could just get out, walk around, and see what she could find. Of course, when she said that was her priority, Chuck reminded her of the boat repairs. She agreed they were important and then, of course, Chuck agreed to her request. So Netsel it was and we were not disappointed. Everything went better than planned and (for once!) the to-do list was completed. Netsel Marina had almost everything we wanted. As we left, Onur Kunduz, the marina manager, asked what had been good and where he could improve. Now, for a couple of old business executives, we were quite pleased to hear that—it really showed his and Setur’s commitment to not stand on their laurels but constantly improve. Our only complaint was the lack of a liveaboard community. We did find as we went along a few liveaboards were there, but did not know how many. So, we suggested the marina set up a liveaboard get-together late in the fall, when most boats would be in, so liveaboards could have a meet-and-greet and set up their own schedule. As we set sail out of Netsel and waved goodbye to the staff, we were sad to leave. In fact, we wish we had spent our previous two winters there as well. Netsel had quickly become home for us, and it is always hard leaving home.
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From Hanalei, Hawaii to Fort What were we thinking? This had to be the We had no business being out
We should
Ready to leave Kaneohe Yacht Club in Oahu, Hawaii
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Our dream finally came together. The boat was provisioned. We needed ice and fuel, and then we’d untie these dock lines! As my husband, Mike, and I were finishing up on the boat, we looked up and saw this brand-new, 42-foot Newton headed towards our boat—at full speed. I screamed, “Stop!” Then both of us were screaming, “Neutral!” This old man was messing around with the shifters and couldn’t figure it out. “Put the boat in neutral!” we screamed again. The boat slowed down and missed us by inches off our bow. Thank god! But then he decided to bring the boat into the dock portside and started heading towards our boat again, full speed. We were screaming again, this time with a crowd of observers watching, and he slams his boat into the concrete dock, hits this one rock, scrapes the wall, and almost hits the fuel pumps with a nice new scratch down the side of his boat. He missed us again by two inches. We were shaken, but our friend Gabriel walked over and in the calmest possible voice tells the Captain in his French accent, “Easy, champion.” This made our day and made us smile! Less than five minutes of fearing we were going to lose everything before we departed was too much. That evening we celebrated “surviving” with friends— and we hadn’t left the dock! The following day we untied the dock lines in Honokohau WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
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Bragg, California in 33 Days! dumbest thing we had ever decided to do. there in the big Pacific Ocean.
turn around! By Tara Kelly
Harbor and set sail towards Hanalei Bay in Kauai. The first hurdle was completed by crossing the Alenuihaha Channel. Crossing the Alenuihaha Channel puts Haleakala on one side and Mauna Kea on the other. So, in this channel there are 4100 meter volcanoes, and wind that funnels that can have five times the volume of the surrounding water. Locals told us that Alenuihaha meant “chiefs laughing at you.” When you’re in this channel, it’s like looking down the throat of Jaws. This was our seventh time in this channel. It’s not always easy crossings—and we understand that local saying. Stopping in Maui, Molokai, and Oahu along the way, we arrived into Hanalei Bay at 1:00 p.m. I lived in Kauai for four years and dreamed of having our boat here. Coming into the bay and seeing the beautiful mountains and the pier was surreal. Hanalei Bay is one of the prettiest places on this earth. Once anchored, the dinghy went into the water and it was time to get a bothersome tooth pulled; I didn’t want to cross the ocean with this pain. It was a successful tooth extraction; we could finally get the provisions we needed. While talking story with our local friends on the beach they noticed someone trying to steal our dinghy. The guy had it loaded in the back of his truck. They called him out on it and we WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
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Xenia in Fort Bragg, California after 33 days at sea
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From Hanalei, Hawaii to Fort Bragg, California in 33 Days! Party with friends before leaving Honokohau, Hawaii
Boat-dog Bell, ready to go out to sea! got our dinghy back. Let’s just say he is not welcome to come back to this beach anymore! Thank god for having friends who keep an eye out for you! Saying goodbye was hard; they all thought we were crazy. We reminded them what their ancestors did. They didn’t need this reminder from a “haole,” since they are third-generation, Ohana Taro farmers in Hanalei. At 11:30 a.m. we pulled anchor and departed Hanalei Bay. It felt great to depart and head to our goal of Santa Barbara, California. The sails were up and we were enjoying a couple of cold Coronas, celebrating our departure. Pinch us, this was amazing! We had worked hard for this and it was finally happening. A few hours later I decided to take a nap. Next thing I heard was my husband Mike saying, “Get up, all hands on deck.” When I went outside I saw big dark clouds ahead of us. A storm was coming towards us. The sky was a color we had never seen before. When I grabbed our life jackets the wind started coming at us from the northeast. Twenty-plus knots, we think. We didn’t have a fancy wind gauge on board. We knew when we couldn’t see the whirlybird spinning around on top of the mast, it was really windy! Water was coming to our back starboard quarter rail. Rain was coming in sideways and we were soaking wet; the autopilot belt was slipping from all of the moisture. The wind then switched around from the southeast and lighting was coming from the sky followed by loud thunder. This continued for the next ten hours. Mike held the wheel, and I was holding on next to him, trying
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to keep from falling down. I couldn’t tell if it was tears or rain drops running down my face, but I told him I was scared. He admitted he was too. I grew up in Utah and am not a natural when it comes to the water. I had learned it over the years while living in Hawaii, so my gauge of scared is a bit different than other people’s. Mike had spent five years fishing in Alaska and has been on the water his whole life. If he is scared, it must be bad. I prayed and hoped they’d find our bodies! While looking over my side (portside) I saw these two huge dolphins swimming next to the boat. “Check out these dolphins,” I said. “Those aren’t dolphins, those are tuna,” Mike informed me. We quickly threw in our two fishing lines. Nothing, darn it. Then we heard the fishing line drag hard, looked up, and saw this huge marlin dancing on the water. What the hell were we going to do with this? We were The 33-day route relieved when he got off! across the Pacific But then he caught on the other line and we saw his belly was hooked. That marlin was pissed now! For the next couple of minutes he was jumping all over the place.Thankfully he finally got off, again. Twenty minutes later we landed a tenpound mahi mahi. This immediately changed the mood on board and we were out of our slump! Mike filleted the fish and I cooked it in lemon and panko. The slamming and pounding can get to you on our boat. We have a very low bridge deck and it makes going into the wind uncomfortable. To make matters worse, when we left Hawaii we forgot our foul weather gear. Having lived in Hawaii for fourteen years, I WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
11/2/18 10:26 AM
What were we thinking? Look closely... thousands of jelly fish
guess we forgot it gets cold? We wore socks on our hands and tied shirts around our faces to stay warm. Everything was damp and never dried out. Not a good idea. Mike couldn’t sleep inside the boat and he would stay up for two-to-three days straight. When he did finally lay down in the saloon area one day, he started hearing voices. I thought he was losing it from the lack of sleep, but the next night I heard them too. We could hear people screaming and laughing. We looked at our AIS—nothing near us. We called out on the VHF—nothing heard back. Nothing in site. There were definitely no other boats near us, but we both heard these voices. It was surreal, to say the least. Mike hates the nights and usually, right before dark, he will sing “Here Comes the Night.” Night watches seem to make our brains think things are happening that aren’t really happening. During one of my night watches, I woke Mike up by saying, “Look there’s a ship off in the distance!” He told me it was not a ship but a planet. There was nothing on the AIS. I then convinced him we were going to hit the ship. Nope, still just a planet! One night he swore we were going to hit a cliff and drove us around in circles for hours, despite what our charts were saying. He even asked me why I was out in the dinghy? What?? We were kind of losing our cool. Should I call the Coast Guard? We had a few other squalls and big seas. After a while you get used to the bad weather. We’d look outside and know the weather was shitty with big seas and it wouldn’t faze us. After ten days at sea, our fresh fruits and vegetables were gone. We realized we were using too much water and getting low. We brought 90 gallons with us, but were using too much on dishes and showers. And, since our German shepherd, Bell, drinks one-to-two gallons a day, it was time to be more mindful. However, everything we cooked needed water. Pancakes? Add WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
pg 126-131 Hawaii to Calif crossing - editedbySue.indd 5
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11/2/18 10:26 AM