SAIL AWAY FROM IT ALL AND LIVE THE LIFE YOU DREAM OF!
CruisingOutpost.com
HERDING CATS IN
TAHITI 10 BOATS & 90 OUTPOSTERS
BVI UPDATE WORLD'S BEST CRUISING GROUNDS
FOOD
GLORIOUS FOOD PROVISIONING IN OUT OF THE WAY PLACES
COMING HOME IT'S HARDER THAN YOU THINK!
CRUISING
WITH KIDS & BUSINESS Fall 2018
Issue #24
From the Creators of
BOAT SPOTLIGHT BLUESCAPE ROYAL CAPE 53 ELAN E5
U.S. $9.99 - Canada $10.99
Issue24-FINAL EditedBySue.indd 1
7/31/18 10:05 AM
In th
there isis issue less tha n
33%
Advertis
ing! And we did it O N PURPO SE Most o ther bo ! magazin ating es h 65% adave over s. Person Responsible for This Bob Bitchin bob@cruisingoutpost.com
Editor at Large Sue Morgan sue@cruisingoutpost.com
Associate Editor Katie “Bitchin” Chestnut katie@cruisingoutpost.com
Boat Show Queen Jody “Bitchin” Lipkin jody@cruisingoutpost.com
Staff Infection Tania Aebi Contributor Zuzana Prochazka zuzana@cruisingoutpost.com
Life Aboard Queen Mother Robin Stout robin@cruisingoutpost.com
Web & Art Guru Richard Marker rich@cruisingoutpost.com
Media Princess Tabitha “Bitchin” Lipkin tabitha@cruisingoutpost.com Marketing & Video Darren O’Brien darren@cruisingoutpost.com
BS Slaves Jeff & Marie Inshaw Jeff@cruisingoutpost.com
People Who Helped Us Create This Issue Bill Ciccotti Capt. James F. Cash Dennis Mullen Devon Thurtle Anderson Jeff Wahl, Jessica Lloyd-Mosten Jessie Zevalkink John Simpson Kia Koropp Lea Ann Rock Lee Chesneau Morgan Stinemetz Paul Esterell Paul KortenKamp Rick Taylor Russell Edward Furnas Terri Potts-Chattaway Valerie March
This Issue’s Cover: One of the Share The Sail boats entering the pass into the lagoon in Bora Bora. Yes, it is the most beautiful island in the world! Next Issue Goes On Sale Dec 3, 2018 Printed in the USA
People Who Didn’t Help Us At All Vladimir Putin Kim Jong-Un Ayatollah Khomeini Xi Jinping
70
Boat Show Slaves Jessie Zevalkink & Katie Smith (Also Godmothers to the Office Cats!)
------------------------------ADVERTISING
Advertising Goddess Lisa O’Brien lisa@cruisingoutpost.com 510-900-3616 Ext #105
Cruising Outpost Box100 Berry Creek, CA 95916 Phone 510 900-3616 info@cruisingoutpost.com
We Support The Boating Industry
National Marine Manufacturers Association
Office Cats Jessie & Katie Office Dog Sancho © 2017 The Bitchin Group, Inc.
Subscription Information Cruising Outpost - PO Box 15416 North Hollywood, CA 91615-5416 818-286-3159 Subscribe » Gift » Renewal » Change of Info » Subscriber Service http://cruisingoutpost.com/subscribe-cruising-outpost-magazine/
6 Cruising Outpost pg 06W Edson/TOC EditedBySueR.indd 1
Many people disagree with our punctuation usage. For those people, we offer these punctuation marks to be used wherever they like!
‘.?;:!-” “ ‘ ;: ,.,*@! WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
7/31/18 10:03 AM
Contents
In 1889, the Queen of Italy, Margherita Savoy, ordered the first pizza delivery!
Issue #24 Fall 2018
50
Special Stuff in this Issue Welcome Back to The BVIs Bob Bitchin The Atlantic Crossing Jessie Zevalkink Easter Island: The Trip of a Lifetime There’s This Place: Dunure, Scottland Tahiti Share The Sail You Really Can Have it All The Barquentine Matthew Turner Going Your Own Way Cruising Cuba Coming Home... Not Always an Easy Thing to Do Zihuatanejo Sailfest Food, Glorious Food Richmond Cruisers’ Party
13 42 50 56 70 96 106 120 130 140 146 152 161
59
96
Regular Stuff in this Issue Attitudes Bob Bitchin Outpost News Another Way Tania Aebi What’s Out There: Monohull -Elan E5 What’s Out There: Multihull - Royal Cape 53 What’s Out There: Power Cruiser - BluEscape Lifestyle Latitudes & Attitudes Weather Lee Chesneau Life Aboard Robin Stout Talk of the Dock Zuzana Prochazka Tech Tips Captain Pauly I Found It at the Boat Show Cap’n Cap’n Bubba Whartz Morgan Stinemetz Bosun’s Bag Mackie White Cruisians
8 22 38 64 66 68 84 110 134 102 138 144 165 175 188 190 197 198
120
CRUISING OUTPOST (USPS 011-950) IS PUBLISHED QUARTERLY BY CRUISING OUTPOST, 9353 Oroville Quincy Hwy, Berry Creek, CA 95916. Periodical Postage paid at Berry Creek, CA and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to CRUISING OUTPOST, PO Box 15416, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5416.
Subscription Info On Page 62 WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
pg 04-05 TOC EditedBySue.indd 1
156
™
© 2018 The Bitchin Group, Inc.
Cruising Outpost 7 7/29/18 10:40 AM
Attitudes Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience.
By Bob Bitchin
I think I may have discovered the perfect political climate. In today’s world, that is not an easy thing. For some reason unbeknownst to me, politicians seem to live in a life of poly-tricks (that means many tricks). Cruisers and liveaboards have a different lifestyle than land-slugs. And, in case you haven’t noticed, we are pretty much outnumbered! Now, being a sailor, cruiser, or boater, the chances are you see things a little different than the majority of folks. Unfortunately, we live in a democracy. No, don’t start screaming “commie” at me. That’s not what I mean. What I mean is this: For some reason, land-slugs like to tell people what to do, and when to do it, whereas sailors live by a different rule: Each person has their own way of doing things. Have you ever noticed, when you go on someone’s boat you see things done differently than how you’d do it? And, if you are smart, you don’t tell them how you do it, because every Captain has his or her way of doing things. That said, there must be a right way and a wrong way, or so you would think. But I remember about 40 years ago, when I was just getting into this “game,” stepping on board the Stone Witch. She was a 74’ square-rigged topsail schooner. All I saw were a buncha ropes. Yeah, I know, there’s no such thing as rope on a boat—but there is if you are a land-slug, which I was! So anyway, there were all these ropes hangin’ down. It was a mess. After about three days at sea, as we sailed south towards Mexico and Guatemala, I figured I’d square the boat away and make the lines a little easier to recognize.
8 Cruising Outpost
pg 08 Editorial EditedBySue.indd 1
I won’t go into the dressing down I took from the crew, who knew what each line was for, and they “used to know” where they were, but not after El Bitchin “cleaned it all up.” They couldn’t find a line. Here’s the thing, on my boat I know where everything is. Another skipper wouldn’t have the foggiest. That’s because as you work on a vessel you find logical places for stuff. But it follows your logic, no one else’s. Take something as simple as dock lines. Now, every boat has dock lines, right? So you’d think there was just one right way to tie up your vessel. But just wait until someone throws you a line, and you do with it what you think is right! I remember this one time, pulling into Catalina Island for an event we were sponsoring. On Lost Soul we had our regular crew, and we also had Eric Stone and the band, with all his gear on deck. As we pulled along side the dock, Eric threw a line to someone standing on the dock. As soon as they had it in their hand they cinched it to a cleat. Unfortunately, we were still underway, at about two knots. When 42 tons of boat hits the end of the line, well, let’s just say there was a deafening “thud,” and we now had to contend with a gash in the hull. It wasn’t really the fault of the “skipper” on the dock. He just did what he thought he was supposed to do. He and I did not think alike. So, the next time you are on a friend’s boat, look around, see how they do things, and try to resist the temptation to tell them “the right way.” There is no right way. There is no wrong way. There is just “your way.”
WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
7/24/18 10:19 AM
14 0,000 + GR A DUATE S S I NC E 1 9 6 4
® Course ng si ui Cr to k Fast Trac
“Dutch, our instructor, did a fabulous job. He somehow was able to teach myself and the rest of the group a large amount of information (all but 1 person in our group was a novice) while still making it fun and feel like a vacation. Would highly recommend Offshore Sailing School to any other groups.” — Heather Bond, Blue Springs, Missouri
OffshoreSailing.com | 888-851-0381 Basic Sailing | Cruising Certification | Passage Making | Racing Programs | Flotilla Cruising Vacations BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS: Scrub Island, Tortola • FLORIDA: Cape Coral, Captiva Island, Fort Myers Beach, St. Petersburg WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
pg 09 Offshore Sailing School.indd 1
Cruising Outpost 9
7/29/18 12:04 PM
pg 12 BVI ad.indd 1
7/26/18 12:18 PM
Join the Outpost in Saying
“Welcome Back” to the
Join the Celebration! New Dates! February 1 Thru 15, 2019
On the following page s you will f ind spe cials on by-the-cabin charters, bareboat charte rs, dr ink s, me als and re sorts. The BVIs are “Ope n for Busine ss” and want you to see how they have come back , so you k now that now you can come back to the be s t sailing in the WORLD! WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
pg 13-19 BVI Come-Back Edited by Sue.indd 1
Cruising Outpost 13
8/1/18 1:51 PM
Come and He lp We lcome Back the BVIs Charles Tobias at Pusser’s says all of the Pusser’s restaurants and stores are open for buisiness.
Vinny from Corsairs on Jost Van Dyke is ready, able and willing to make your stay a fun one! Stop by and say “Hi.”
Cane Garden Bay awaits with its beautiful white sand beach and plenty of BVI hospitality!
De Loose Mongoose has been the home of cruisers for decades, and they are anxious to see you again!
Welcome Back to Paradise! The people of the British Virgin Islands want to show us how well they have come together to rebuild their cruising paradise. For many years the BVIs have been home to the real cruising lifestyle. Now it’s up to us, the cruisers of the world, to come back and support them and to see how well they have recovered from the devastation of two back-to-back Category 5 hurricanes. We need to do our best to show them it was worth the work. What’s “our best” you ask? That’s simple. We have to go there to support them and show that people are anxious to start cruising there
Marche´ Bar and Grill in Trellis Bay is a popular Beef Island spot and they’re back in business.
BVI Welcome Back Specials for February 1st thru 15th, 2019
10% Discount Off Rally Fees! The Salty Dawg Rally from Hampton, VA to the Caribbean departing on 11/3, to arrive in the BVIs by 11/15. www.saltydawgsailing.org
14 Cruising Outpost
pg 13-19 BVI Come-Back Edited by Sue.indd 2
10% off all Instruction & licensing at the BVI base, location on Scrub Island. www.offshoresailing.com
Special rates during the event. www.proteuscharters.com www.cruisingoutpost.com
8/1/18 1:51 PM
Febr uar y 1 Thr u 15, 2019
Neptune’s Treasure on Anegada is ready for all comers! They offer great meals, tropical drinks and rooms for crew changes.
again. After the devastation by hurricanes Irma and Maria it was a hard fight to come back. The people of the British Virgin Islands joined together, and in just a few days had meals being served. Every day since Irmaria (the islanders’ name for the two devastating hurricanes) they have made progress. Now they are ready to invite “their people” (that’s us) back to the islands to see how well they have come back. Don’t let them down. As they say, “Be there or be square.” Sail Your Boat, Charter or Join the Share The Sail Join the Welcome Back to the BVIs celebration from February 1st thru the 15th and see for yourself! Sailing your own boat? You can still join the festivities.
The folks at the Bitter End Yacht Club are hard at it, and they hope to be open. We’ll keep you informed on our website!
The “Willy T” is moving to Great Harbour on Peter Island. Be sure to stop by and say “Hi!”
The Anegada Reef Bar is one of the best places to stop for a cold one while visiting the island. Stop by and see why!
Scrub Island Resort is ready, able and willing to make your stay as good as it gets! All facilities are open and waiting!
BVI Welcome Back Specials for February 1st thru 15th, 2019
Free Night & Champagne Conch offers a “free night” stay aboard with free champagne to all charters during this event! w w w.conchcharters.com www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 13-19 BVI Come-Back Edited by Sue.indd 3
Aaaargh! Get your free 8oz Voodoo Rum Punch with a purchase of any food item. Ye be limited to 1 per customer, but that should do it! w w w.corsairsbvi.com
Cruising Outpost 15
8/1/18 1:52 PM
He lp We lcome Back the BVIs
Sugar Mill Hotel will open in October and they are looking forward to seeing the cruisers.
Want to bareboat charter? Just about every charter company is offering special rates. Want to join our “Share The Sail” by-the-cabin f lotilla? Kewl! Just go to the Cruising Outpost website at www. cruisingoutpost.com and select the “Share The Sail” drop-down menu to join the Outpost staff for a one-week cruise thru the islands. We are planning a number of gatherings during the week at some of our favorite places. If you are chartering a bareboat or on your own boat, you can sign up to join the crew as we sail an itinerary to hit all of the places we have been going to for
Join Bob & Jody and the Outpost Staff
Share The Sail BVI Feb. 2nd - 9th Special discounted rates for the “Welcome Back to the BVI” event www.cruisingoutpost.com/sharethesail
Turtle Bay House at the Nail Bay Resort on Virgin Gorda is ready for your visit!
BVI Welcome Back Specials for February 1st thru 15th, 2019
20% Discount The Nanny Cay Hotel is offering a 20% discount during the event. A great boutique hotel. www. nannycay.com/hotel
16 Cruising Outpost pg 13-19 BVI Come-Back Edited by Sue.indd 4
Save $250 on any new MarineMax Vacations power catamaran vacation booked bet ween Feb 1st - 15th, 2019. www.marinemax.com
$200 off Cruising Outpostʻs Share-The-Sail “By-the-cabin flotilla Charter” February 1st thru 15th, 2019 www.cruisingoutpost.com WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
8/1/18 1:55 PM
Febr uar y 1s t thr u 15th, 2019
The Road Town Ferry Dock is back open and ready to receive folks and help them “get around.”
years, like Foxy’s, Corsair’s, the Willy T., Leverick Bay, and Trellis Bay for the Full Moon Party. But don’t feel like you have to join the group. The hospitality in the BVIs is legend, and they are going all out to welcome all cruisers for this two-week “Open House.” As we want to make it easy for you to see how well they have come back, here is a link to the very latest info on the islands: www.bvitraveller.com/ news. British Virgin Islands Traveller is a website dedicated to helping the BVIs recover by promoting travel and tourism after the hurricanes. They update
Leverick Bay will be the site of one of our ShareThe-Sail Parties while cruising the area!
Conch Charters are offering special rates to cruisers for this event!
Peg Leg’s on Nanny Cay is now open and serving meals and drinks on their beautiful white sand beach. The North Sound of Virgin Gorda awaits cruisers and they are looking forward to this “Welcome Back” event.
BVI Welcome Back Specials for February 1st thru 15th, 2019
Daily Happy Hour in the North Sound, $4 Rum Punches & Painkillers, $1 off Beer, Glass Wine & Well Drinks. Everyday 4 - 7 pm. w w w.leverickbay.com www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 13-19 BVI Come-Back Edited by Sue.indd 5
50% Off overnight marina slip The 50% discount will apply to your entire stay. Mention this ad at of booking (877) 890-7444. Restrictions apply. Valid February 1st thru 15th, 2018.
Stay updated with the special deals as they are announced by watching the BVI section of our Share The Sail area. www.cruisingoutpost.com
Cruising Outpost 17 8/1/18 1:52 PM
Cruising Outpost News
Outposters News If It’s Gonna Happen It’s Gonna Happen Out There Issue #24
Evening Edition
Fall 2018
The very first Cruisers’ Party
No More St. Pete Party Due to new ownership of the St. Petersburg, Florida Boat Show, after 21 years there will not be a Cruisers’ Party at the show. This was where the Cruisers’ Parties started, when Latitudes & Attitudes created the idea for a free party with beer, soft drinks, pizza and good music, to bring cruisers and the industry together. The last remaining Cruisers’ Party in the U.S. (we still sponsor them in the BVIs, Tahiti and other kewl places!) will be at the Richmond, California Pacific Sail & Power Boat Show next April.
Help “Welcome Back” The BVIs New Dates - February 1 thru 15th As you are probably aware, the British Virgin Islands were hit, and hit hard, by two Category 5 hurricanes in a row last year. It devastated most of the islands and affected all of the people who live there. For the past year they have been “bringing it back,” and now they are ready to welcome all of us back to enjoy the paradise that is Mecca for cruising sailors. To that end, you will find plenty of “specials” on boats, rooms, meals and more during this event. You can read more starting on page 13.
Join the Outpost on a Catamaran!
Don’t have a boat? Just want to participate? Join the Cruising Outpost Share The Sail Flotilla! We have 8 boats with plenty of room. No experience needed! Each boat will have a staff member aboard to make it all the more enjoyable! The Share The Sail Flotilla will be February 2 thru the 9th. We will visit most of the islands to see how well our boater’s paradise has come back! Find more info on Page 13 or you can go to www.cruisingoutpost.com/sharethesail.
Nautical Trivia “Dutch courage.” That term has been around forever. But does anyone know what it really is or how it came about in the first place? (Wanna cheat? Answer is on page 32)
22 Cruising Outpost
pg 22-35 Outpost News EditedBySue.indd 2
www.cruisingoutpost.com
8/1/18 4:29 PM
Cruising Outpost News To me, drinking responsibly means don’t spill it.
Lost & Found
Sailing from Hawaii to Bellingham, Washington this past June, Jim and Joy Carey were on the final leg of their 17-year, 70,000-mile circumnavigation. Then, just 180 miles from shore, the worst happened; a storm rendered their 46-foot sailboat, Kelaerin, totally disabled, filled with seawater, and swept away their life raft. After determining they had no alternative, the couple activated their EPIRB and a helicopter crew from Coast Guard Sector Columbia River in Astoria, Oregon, responded and rescued them. They were transferred to emergency medical services personnel with symptoms of hypothermia. The boat was left adrift and a notice to mariners was issued. Along with the loss of Kelaerin, their home for the past 30 years, the Carey’s lost everything else they owned, including all the pictures and mementos from their 17-year around-the-world voyage. That is, until over a month later when the crew of the Coast Guard Cutter Barracuda found Kelaerin while on routine patrol near Fort Bragg, more than 440 miles south-southeast from her position when abandoned. The Barracuda crew inspected the vessel’s seaworthiness and took it in tow toward the coast. A Coast Guard Station Fort Bragg 47-foot Motor Lifeboat crew relieved the tow and moored the vessel in Fort Bragg. Coast Guard Sector Humboldt Bay watchstanders contacted the owners to notify them their vessel had been found. How’s that for a happy ending!
Why So Tired? Pretending to be a funtional adult is exhausting! www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 22-35 Outpost News EditedBySue.indd 3
Cruising Outpost 23
7/31/18 12:41 PM
AT L A NT I C C R O S S I N G England ahead. Canada behind. Greenland to port. Brazil to starboard.
Jessie is “overly enthused� to see land
42 Cruising Outpost
pg 42-47 Jessie's Atlantic Aventure pt II EditedBySue.indd 2
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/24/18 10:26 AM
Today marks our halfway point across the Atlantic ocean. Dead center between departure and destination.
By Jessie Zevalkink
www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 42-47 Jessie's Atlantic Aventure pt II EditedBySue.indd 3
I strip down naked and put on my favorite outfit, an American flag onesie that I bought in Charleston, SC four years ago. I remember walking out of the store into a swamp of humidity, wondering WTF I just spent $58 on. A tiny piece of material that awkwardly fit my body. It’s a high-waist cut, making my already short torso appear shorter. It wedges up you-know-what in both the front and the back. It smashes my already small boobs smaller. For some reason I have an insistent desire to wear it every 4th of July. And so I have. Today is year four. Despite its’ offensive fit, I’m beginning to think that it was, indeed, a wise purchase. It also happens to be my favorite holiday. Fourth of July. I am celebrating my favorite day of the year, in my favorite outfit, in a gale, in the rain, alone. I’ve set up my self-timer to document this historic moment. The camera hangs from a sail tie in the companionway and oscillates with the swells. I take at least 37 self- timed photos before I get one with all body parts appropriately placed either inside my leotard or outside of the photograph. I smile big. It’s genuine. I am having a blast.
Cruising Outpost 43
7/24/18 10:27 AM
AT L A NT I C C R O S S I N G Luke’s father greeting them in Falmouth, England
44 Cruising Outpost pg 42-47 Jessie's Atlantic Aventure pt II EditedBySue.indd 4
I prance around on deck to reef the main. Straps fall down my shoulders. Wedgie in full effect. It’s raining. The waves are… 10-12 feet. The wind is building and I don’t tether in because I am invincible (or dumb) in my American Flag suit. It howls 38 knots. We surf down swells at 11.3 knots. Four hours pass and this could be the first watch that I am not ready to be over, although I can’t wait to wake Luke up. I’m ready to party. A wave strikes the starboard side violently. My body stiffens and my eyes widen under the assumption we have hit a whale. The savage wave wakes Luke up in a panic before I get the chance to. He admits to seeing me through the port hole as I was flopping around on the deck reefing the main. I am disappointed to hear this because in my mind I situated the sails with grace and coordination. With the body of Pamela Anderson. In reality, I tripped and held onto the mast for dear life. I struggled to uncoil the halyard in the body of a 12-year-old boy. I play Chris Stapleton again; this album has become our sound track. I extract our highest quality ingredients. The kinds that scream “wealth” and “celebration” - imitation lobster and a can of Trader Joe’s Vegetable Soup. It takes all four of our hands to prep holiday lunch. I hold the pot and start the burner. Luke opens the can and dumps it in the pot. I keep the contents from spilling out over the edges and the flame from starting anything else on fire. Luke gnaws at the plastic packaging of the fake lobster and rips it open. We work hard to stay
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/24/18 10:27 AM
in position. Just when I think I’ve found my balance I lose my suave as a wave lifts me and I smash my hips into the knobs on the stove. We lavish in “fresh lobster soup” and “ice cold champagne.” We high five. We cheer. We are kids. Another wave breaks over the cabin top and into the galley dumping gallons of water directly on my head. I stand there soaking wet wondering why the ocean just did that to me. How rude. The ocean laughs at me. Luke laughs at me. It takes me a moment for me to laugh at me. This is the greatest 4th of July with the shittiest weather I have ever had. I struggle to rest because, well, we’re halfway across the ocean and this is awesome. Three Days Until Landfall I’ve been curious about what happens to those who spend days, weeks, months at sea. My time frame will amount to 17 days at sea, and 86 days in the water from Michigan to England. With these days has come a composite of understandings. There has been a marriage of calculated decision making and luck. Luke and I have been able to cross this ocean with ease, unbuttoned, with wind at our back and manageable seas. I have felt a collection of emotions, but shockingly, “scared” has not been one of them. I walked into this a warrior, ready to face eternal rest if that’s where the ocean led us. Dramatic yes, the chances of death are
Celebrating landfall with friends & family in Falmouth
Sunny passage from the Scilly Isles to Falmouth
www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 42-47 Jessie's Atlantic Aventure pt II EditedBySue.indd 5
Cruising Outpost 45 7/24/18 10:27 AM
AT L A NT I C C R O S S I N G
Luke waiting on Jess to kayak to shore, St. Agnes, Scilli Isles
Desireé peacefully anchored in St. Agnes Bay
Local birds and beers at the local pub “Turks Head”
46 Cruising Outpost
pg 42-47 Jessie's Atlantic Aventure pt II EditedBySue.indd 6
slim… however, preparing for an ocean crossing forces you to imagine yourself in every bloodcurdling situation. I was ready to meet God, or have some sort of divine enlightenment. Ready to redefine my idea of fear. Ready to inflate the life raft. Ready to sink into troughs of mountainous waves and feel the fire hose spray as we reached the peaks. I don’t know what I thought, but I expected it to be far different from its reality. However we are not there yet. I don’t dare speak too soon about my epiphanies. One hundred miles till landfall. We are wide awake when we spot the light of iconic Bishop Rock through the mist. This is it. This is landfall. My superstition is telling me to be very careful. We’ve made it this far unscathed. It’s not too late to mess up. Luke is at the helm having so much fun and I’m a little jealous because I am taken by the anxiety of rocks. We have a 20-knot breeze just off our port stern, and are flying along at seven knots though midnight mist. Luke is a happy man. I sit aside him an anxious woman. The depth sounder is reading off 70, 60, 50, 40 feet. Through the spurts of rain and washed-out moon we make out sections of rock off our port side. I stare diligently at our GPS because I can’t see anything else, and read out course changes as we navigate the south side of the Scilly Isles, just 50 miles off the coast of England. We turn hard to port and head northwest into St. Agnes Bay. I crank over the engine and drop the sails. Luke steers us in. Half a mile into the protection of the surrounding rocks, everything goes silent. The wind lets us be. The mist refrains and the clouds begin to divorce. A patchwork of stars and a blanketed moon cast light on the anchorage. We set the anchor twice before we are able to trust. On round two, we are rooted to the earth. Only two other boats in the neighborhood. I want to go wake them up and tell them what we have just done. I want to call my family. Dance with strangers. Run around naked. But I don’t. Instead I go to the bilge and retrieve our last two Budweisers that I hid from Luke. We sit in silence and taste the joy of stillness, the pleasure of untroubled waters. Each bubble of carbonation brings with it a sigh of relief, accompanied by a grin. Nothing significant needs to be said. We are safe. We are proud. We smell the sub-tropical earth and www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/24/18 10:28 AM
float in a pond under the stars. I can’t wait to see where we are when the sun wakes. We sit closely in the cockpit until first light. By 5:00 a.m. we are, for the first time in 17 days, able to lay down and sleep together. We did it. Everything. Is. So. Still. We black out. Come morning I title my time at sea: “World War Me” and I admit to the egocentricity of this title. A drunken brawl with my psychological self. In combat with my physical self. A dogfight with environmental wellness. A duel with mother nature. Cyclical rounds of punishments and treats. Genuine panic and delight. Internal angst and ecstasy. Mind over matter is what I faced, and it’s not a particularly attractive face. Just when I was convinced my mind was too weak, something reminded me that “World War Me” wasn’t that hard and I needed to calm the f*** down because we were perfectly fine. I’d collide with gratitude and all of a sudden find myself tearing up at the sight of a gannet diving for its supper. These ventures are not intended to last forever. They are simply earnest curiosities that must be understood, ravenous appetites for something more difficult than the life of convenience to which most of us are acclimated. I take home with me the exact same woman who left 86 days ago. Who feels fiercely about attempt at bravery. Seeking flexibility. Avoiding unfavorable influence. And the ability to create our own opportunities.
Jessie marks her territory in her favorite outfit
St. Agnes anchorage.
www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 42-47 Jessie's Atlantic Aventure pt II EditedBySue.indd 7
Cruising Outpost 47
7/24/18 10:28 AM
The Trip of a Lifetime to
Easter Island
Jeff Wahl, S/V Just Passing Wind
We have all heard about faraway places, but instinctively know that we will never be able to get there. These are places like Spitsbergen Island, Nor way, Antarctica, or Easter Island the places that are so remote that you don’t even put them on your bucket list.
50 Cruising Outpost
pg 50-55 Easter Island - EditedBySueR.indd 2
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/24/18 11:57 AM
Well, we had the unexpected opportunity to fly to Easter Island. That’s right, I’m writing about flying to a remote island in a sailing magazine. I knew that we would never be able to sail to Easter Island and have always heard the stories about the hazardous coastline. So, I just tucked that thought away and dreamt of realistic places that we could visit, like the Galapagos Islands, the Marquesas Islands, Tahiti, etc., etc., etc. You know, the doable places. While walking the docks at Marina Taina, Tahiti, we happened to overhear someone commenting that another boater had flown to Easter Island. Of course, I said, “What? How much?” For the low, low price of $600 US (each) we were on the next plane to Easter Island. The flight from Tahiti flies and returns every Tuesday morning. The hardest part of the whole experience is making the 3:20 a.m. flight. After a pleasant five-hour flight on LATAM Airlines, formally LAN Airlines, and a five-hour time zone difference, we landed in the early afternoon on Easter Island. Like kids in a candy shop we started walking and looking around. In awe, we saw our first Moai (the head statue) in downtown Hanga Roa, a mere three blocks from our motel, Taha Tai. Hotel rooms run from $80 to $180 US. Being the adventurous ones that we are, we signed up for some Island tours. Over the years I have found that I can learn a lot more, and much faster, from listening to a guide and asking questions, rather than hibernating while reading several books. We did read an overview of the island’s history from a great book, A Companion to Easter Island, but it all comes together when someone is pointing out the location in front of you and the small details that would have been overlooked, and telling the back stories. We saw Bird Island, where the annual Birdman Competition was held to elect a new leader for the next year on Easter Island. Driving around the island, taking in the barren landscape that was once completely treed, it reminded me of western South Dakota with the lack of trees and the open prairie. Although there are several tree groves on the island now, the tour guides can quote which year every tree was planted. The island is lined with hundreds of Moais. Some Moai are in groups and some just out there by themselves, representing the 18 clans that claimed their territories on the island. I really found the quarry with new Moai in different stages of development to be interesting. Surrounding the quarry were some 300 more Moai waiting to be moved to their new, permanent location. The island is only 64 sq. miles, so most everyone had to get along. But, as resources were over-taxed by the
www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 50-55 Easter Island - EditedBySueR.indd 3
Cruising Outpost 51
7/24/18 11:57 AM
The Trip of a Lifetime
excessive population growth, the clans got restless to the point that the short ears (lower class) had enough of the long ears (upper class) ruling the island. Unrest probably came about with starvation. Almost all the Moai were tipped over and destroyed as the population imploded. From reading the history of the island, we learned there were still plenty of souls living when the Dutch discovered the island in 1722. Sadly, over the centuries to follow, with whalers bringing small pox and European diseases, the population was decimated. Then, to top it off, ships from Peru came to enslave all but 111 of the remaining population, and took the new slaves back to Peru to work the mines. Unfortunately for history, those enslaved were the elders with the knowledge of the history and folklore of the island.
52 Cruising Outpost
pg 50-55 Easter Island - EditedBySueR.indd 4
Needing a relaxing laidback week, we found it on Easter Island, as the island is known to the world. The official island name is Isle of Pascua; the natives call the island Rapa Nui. This island is so laid back that the horses even graze in the cemetery. Love it. During our week stay we were able to walk every street of Hanga Roa, the main town on the island. It would be very easy for the island to boast. They grow the largest flowers I have ever seen, and they have lots of shops and plenty of restaurants. While traveling we love to eat where the locals eat. This is not the case on Easter Island. I do not remember seeing even one local in any restaurant. You need to remember that this is a small town, making it very easy for the locals to walk home for lunch. This island is built on the tourist trade, so a “cheap� hamburger is $20 US. Other islands could learn how to expand their tourism service and hospitality from visiting Easter Island. We found several young couples on their honeymoon. The town is exclusively for travelers. While we never found a five-star restaurant, almost every restaurant would qualify as a three- or four-star. As such, with being an island that produces nothing, all food stuffs (supplies) are flown in. A warning: be prepared for menu shock! We were forewarned of the high food prices, so we brought along
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/31/18 3:50 PM
Easter Island a jar of peanut butter. You would be surprised how well a simple peanut butter sandwich takes the edge off. That, and sharing the oversized meals, helped us cut our food cost in half. The service was superb everyplace we went - from restaurants, hotels, souvenir shops, dive and surf shops, and museums - the locals knew their tourism. Even though we speak mostly English, we had no problem getting translation almost every place we visited. We loved the national park signage being written in both Spanish and English. Even though Easter Island is part of Chile, you do not see much Chilean influence. Always keeping a weather eye, we saw seven sailboats come and go around the island during our stay. Most of these boats landed on the island once or twice while getting rested up to head on west. No sailboat stayed for more than a few days - after finding out how rugged the coastline is, in addition to the ever-changing weather, they leave. During our week we saw two nice bluebird days, two rainy days, and for the balance we had wind from 15 to 35 knots which changed direction daily. We found three sailboats that had been craned onto the yard after having bad luck with the coastline. One will never be made sea worthy again and two have complete rudders being shipped in. There are no chandleries and only limited trades on the island. The southern coast takes the blunt of the blow with the swell coming directly from Southern Ocean storms. www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 50-55 Easter Island - EditedBySueR.indd 5
In 1993, Kevin Costner made a film, Rapa Nui, about the history of the island. The influx of money brought with the filming helped locals be able to purchase homes and other niceties. The island was settled by the Polynesians from the west on their Pacific expanse. The island inhabitants are working on keeping the Polynesian culture alive. A must-see is the Polynesian dance show at Kari Kari, a high energy performance.
Cruising Outpost 53
7/31/18 3:50 PM
Don’t Miss an Issue! Back Issues and a Way to Keep Them Neat!
H OVER 200
SAIL AWAY WIT
FARING PAGES OF SEA
!
ADVENTURE
CruisingOutp
G AND SAILING
ES OF CRUISIN
OVER 200 PAG
ost.com
!
ADVENTURE
JESSIE'S
AT L A N T IC G C R O S SOMIN E BACK
CruisingOutp
WELC
IN BRITISH VIRG ISLANDS!
Tak A Bo rn Sa ilor Sto rm Na sh vil le By
COCONUT
MILK RUN
A DUMMIES
CUBA
THE BEATING TO
GREAT PANAM
RE
JESS IE & LUKE THE ATLA NTIC
HT BOAT SPOTLIG HYLAS H60 48 FLY GREENLINE BALI 4.3
CruisingOutpost.com
OUGH
IC EB ER GS
SAILING THR
MISADVENTU
CRUISING
DISE PARA ZEALAND TO
CRO SS
HITTING A REE
CU BA
NEW FRENCH POLYNES IA
F IN
JESSIE
SETS SAIL AGAIN! THE BEAUTY
CRUISING
From The tors of Crea
SEA THE BLACK
OF THE
U.S. & Canada
BEAST
SAILING WITH WHALES IN VAVA'U
HT BOAT SPOTLIG
S/V SOULMATE’s
DUFOUR 412 LEOPARD 50 31 HELMSMAN
From The tors of Crea
U.S. & Canada
From the Creators of
GUIDE
FR EN CHSI A PO LY NE A SUMMER IN GA LA CI A
REAL IN KEEPING IT
GALAPAGOAS
ost.com
ia Isabella Stefan es
GREAT ADVENTU RE
$7.99
$7.99
MAST FLYING
HIGH ON SILK!
BOAT SPOTLIGHT ELAN GT5 OUTREM ER 4X SOLAR WAVE
Fall 2017 Issue #20
SOLAR DRIVEN POWER CRUISER!
U.S. $7.99 - Canada $8.99 7/24/17 4:19 PM pg 001 Cover final edit.indd 1
Don’t Miss an Issue! Order Here: bit.ly/714CO
Now Available!
A full year of Cruising Outpost on one DVD! Each DVD holds four full issues of Cruising Outpost!
That’s four issues of the best read in cruising - all on one DVD for easy referral .95
Just
$19.95 each
Keep Your Copies Safe Order Here: bit.ly/714CO 62 Cruising Outpost pg 62-63 Sub Ad EditedBySue.indd 2
Year 1 -
$19
Set
2013
Year 5 -
2015 Year 3 Year 2 -
2014
Year 4 -
2017
2016
Four full issues plus free “wallpaper” and a Bonus TV Show!
W W W .C R U I S I N G O U T P O S T . C O M
WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
7/24/18 2:52 PM
Now Save Even More!
Just go to our website and sign up!
www.cruisingoutpost.com/subscribe
Only $25 A Year
Includes On-line at no additional charge. Send a copy home, read on-line on the boat!
When you subscribe to the print version of Cruising Outpost you will also receive full access to ALL PAST ISSUES
Free Subscriptions for ALL Active Duty Personnel*
Regular price by the issue $39.96 You Save Almost
A special Thank You to our subscribers who helped make this happen. Army - Navy - Marines Air Force - Coast guard Merchant Marines
$15 off
*A part of every dollar that comes in for subscriptions to Cruising Outpost pay for free subscriptions for our troops.
(digital version)
for research!
H er e ’s How t o O r de r ! We M a ke I t E a s y !
If you photocopy this you don’t have to cut up a perfectly good magazine.
Change of Address? Gift Subscription? Other Subscription Issues?
Go to: www.cruisingoutpost.com/subscribe Subscription Service Phone 818-286-3159
Order On-Line: www.cruisingoutpost.com Order By Mail : PO Box 15416, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5416 Order By Phone: Call 818-286-3159 800-869-0040 (Copy this form & Fax it) Order By Fax: Subscribe Now!
Circle Your Option
$25. $45. $65.
Gift Subscriptions: Go to www.cruisingoutpost.com Name
Add $10 per year for PRINT subscriptions for Canda and Mexico
Add $20 per year for PRINT subscriptions outside North America
Phone
Address City
State
Zip/Country Code
❏ Check Enclosed E-Mail ❏ Bill to my credit card (Visa/MC/Amex/Discover) Card #
Exp. Date
Signature MAIL TO: Cruising
Date signed Outpost Subscriptions
PO Box 15416, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5416
WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
pg 62-63 Sub Ad EditedBySue.indd 3
Print & On-line
Send me the next 4 issues (That’s one full year!) Send me the next 8 issues (That’s two full years!) Send me the next 12 issues (Three years! Best deal!)
/ /
A09/18
Cruising Outpost 63 7/24/18 2:53 PM
Entering the pass into Bora Bora
Herding Cats 10 Catamarans, 90 People Sailing the
Most Beautiful Area on Earth
By Bob Bitchin with unwanted comments from Jessie Zevalkink, Zuzana Prochazka, Eric Stone, Tom Brownell, Lisa & Darren O’brien, Andrew & Sharon Gober, and Jeff Inshaw. (comments are color coded. This is the key!)
Ran into some our readers while anchored on the back-side of Bora Bora 70 Cruising Outpost
pg 70-79 Tahiti Share The sail EditedBySue.indd 2
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/24/18 3:03 PM
Jumping for joy off the Jessie & Katie boat
in Paradise
Twenty years ago, we did our first Share The Sail in the Sous le Vent area of French Polynesia. That trip included the islands of Raiatea, Taha’a, Huahine and Bora Bora - AKA paradise! So, when we decided to do our re-birth, what better area than that? Working with our old friend Scott Farquharson from Proteus Charters, we soon had seven boats reserved. Kewl!
www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 70-79 Tahiti Share The sail EditedBySue.indd 3
Cruising Outpost 71
7/24/18 3:03 PM
Herding Cats in Paradise Entering Huahine
Jody, Jeff & Debbie enjoying an afternoon
Brian & Stephanie pretending to like each other... lol
Dorothy from Berry Creek enjoying the view in Bora Bora
72 Cruising Outpost pg 70-79 Tahiti Share The sail EditedBySue.indd 4
Using iNavX to navigate
We announced the event and were kinda surprised at the response. In just a couple weeks we had almost 90 people signed up. Quick calculations told us we were gonna need more boats. After a lot of negotiating we ended up getting a total of nine boats, all large catamarans. Now, as many of you may know, getting to paradise is never an easy thing. With the airline price increases, the transportation had doubled in cost; but, everyone managed to get it arranged, and on the 28th of June, 89 people started arriving in Raiatea. Olivier was the temporary manager at the Dream Yacht Charters base and was very helpful. But you can imagine trying to get the nine skippers and 89 people onto nine boats, as well as provisioning and making sure everyone had snorkel gear. Then there was the chart briefing. The chart briefing was fun. It was supposed to be just the skippers, but we ended up with about 75 people jammed in for the briefing. That said, by about 2:30 p.m. the boats started to leave the docks and head out into the jade green waters of the lagoon that surrounds Raiatea and Taha’a. We spent our first night anchored behind the reef next to the pass we would use the next day to head over to the island of Huahine. We had one local skipper we had hired, as we didn’t have enough staff for all the boats. (Hey, we are a small company, remember...lol.) The boats headed over to the anchorage next to the pass. The anchorage was calm, located just inside the reef, and the water was a warm 85° F. After a quick swim, we dined on cheeseburgers in paradise and had an early evening as people tried to catch up on the sleep lost in getting to Tahiti. Before leaving the US we talked with the folks at iNavX, which is the navigation system we wanted to use on this trip. We downloaded the app and charts, and as it turns out, on the boat we were on the nav system was located below decks, and the steering above decks. The fact we had iNavX really made a difference! www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/24/18 3:03 PM
The Polynesian damcers at the Mahina Lodge in Huahine
The crew of the Bob Boat heading to a dive spot The sail (I use the term loosely!) from Taha’a to Huahine is about 22 miles. In the morning, the winds were light and variable as we headed out the pass. The boats left on their own time. The first left about 7:30 a.m. while the Bob Boat had a leisurely breakfast, downed a quart or two of surprisingly good coffee, and took a morning swim. Leaving the pass, we hoisted the main and started motoring across the 22-mile gap. Surprisingly the wind did start to pick up, but only hit about 8-10 knots. We angled off to the north and hauled out the jib. We were able to make about 6-7 knots; the course was 90° off, but it felt so good to sail we just let her run for about an hour. After we got on the right course and started motorsailing directly to the pass we noticed the seas were huge, like over 25 feet, BUT they were almost 30 seconds apart. We barely felt them. As we approached the island we saw they were breaking large on the reef. Huahine has to be one of the best places on earth for a boat, or should I say best places at sea? In any case, it is a beautiful island. As we cautiously motored around the inner reef we saw that most of our fleet was already in and anchored. Some of the people decided to take a tour while others swam and snorkeled. Then then there were those who spent the day visiting other boats and swapping stories. With nine boats there is always plenty of variety and options for hangout areas. However, the most popular place seemed to be the Huahine Yacht Club. Some of the stories centered on equipment issues aboard the older boats (it’s not uncommon that charter boats are “sailed hard and put away wet”). We felt a little left out of the conversation as our boat, Kiwi, a 2017 Bali 4.5, was perfect. So we started complaining that if you didn’t push the button on the large stand up refrigerator/ freezer just right, the ice-maker didn’t work. I got punched in the shoulder a few times for saying that! The crew on the Bob Boat split up, with the majority going ashore to take a tour of the island. Jody and I jumped into the dinghy and headed over to the Zuzana www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 70-79 Tahiti Share The sail EditedBySue.indd 5
Kim Hess-Stone, aka Yoga Kim, meditating in Tahiti
Drifting down the lagoon in Taha’a
Cruising Outpost 73
7/24/18 3:04 PM
Herding Cats in Paradise Just a portion of the people who attended the Cruiser’s Party at Bloody Mary’s in Bora Bora. This was the third time we hosted a party here, and it was FUN!
74 Cruising Outpost pg 70-79 Tahiti Share The sail EditedBySue.indd 6
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/24/18 3:04 PM
Boat, for intellectually stimulating conversation of course ;). After a few minutes we headed across the entrance channel over to the Jessie Boat. The crew on the Jessie Boat, soon nicknamed the “Babe Boat,” had Jessie, Katie, and Tabitha (my granddaughter) and her boyfriend Chris, as well as Brian and Stephanie from St. Augustine, and David and Teresa Conlon. Why did we call it the Babe Boat, you ask? Well, when you see the photo taken on the bow, you will have your answer. Somehow three to four hours passed, along with about a half-dozen cold beers (each). Just before sunset
we were joined by the crew of the Eric Stone Boat and the Lisa & Darren Boat. We gathered on the foredeck for a photo of the group, and soon we were all heading back to our own boats for dinner and to enjoy a beautiful tropical evening at anchor in a very calm and protected lagoon. The next day we had an adventuresome motor up the narrow and sometimes challenging inner reef. About halfway up to Motu Mahara, we anchored off the island and swam or dinghied ashore. Once ashore a very nice local named Ziggy welcomed us, and soon was leading the ladies on a “Jody Walk.” Jody is notorious for long walks. He had the ladies climbing a lava-rock wall barefoot, and they all loved it.
Jessie, Katie, DadBob & granddaughter Tabitha
www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 70-79 Tahiti Share The sail EditedBySue.indd 7
Cruising Outpost 75
7/24/18 3:04 PM
Herding Cats in Paradise to the island of Taha’a. Taha’a sits just north of Raiatea and The beach was beautiful, and the snorkeling was great. is one of the least visited but most beautiful islands in the We spent an hour or so on the beach, then made our group. It is the only island that you can circumnavigate way back to the boats and headed further up-island to without ever leaving the lagoon. We carefully negotiated a sleepy lagoon, where the Hotel Mahana Huahine was busy arranging for our Tahitian barbecue and Polynesian our way around the island, avoiding the numerous reefs, and settled on a pristine anchorage dance show. where the water was such a bright The evening was magical for all aqua that just looking at it made it eighty-six people who arrived after hard to focus on anchoring. anchoring in the picture-perfect That afternoon and evening, lagoon. The Mahana was the perfect people visited between boats, swam, location for this event. The food was snorkeled, and enjoyed the warm beyond compare, and so far above clear waters. On the Bob Boat what we expected as to be almost The shark dive in we dined on fresh sashimi, sushi, ludicrous. There were so many Bora Bora was a and seared tuna steaks. We had a Polynesian specialties you couldn’t big hit! great mix of people from all over fit them on the plate, and the tropical the US and Canada who spent the drinks were plentiful. evening under the stars and getting After dinner they brought out a group of Polynesian dancers to entertain us. The show was to know each other. The Z Boat proceeded with Hinano calisthenics until all biceps were bigger and stronger. excellent, with local dancers showing us the dances that We spent the whole evening looking out at the island have been a part of their society for hundreds of years. of Bora Bora, just 23 miles away, and watched the sun set The dancers were great, and the sounds of the Polynesian behind our next destination. Bora Bora is one of the most drums filled the building and wafted out over the lagoon treasured islands in the world. to those who were anchored out. In the morning the boats gathered and started on The next day we wound our way out of the tight the crossing to the magical island. Now, I gotta tell ya, channel to the opening and made our way about 22 miles
76 Cruising Outpost pg 70-79 Tahiti Share The sail EditedBySue.indd 8
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/24/18 3:05 PM
leaving the western pass out of Taha’a is a true religious experience. Without a visible landmark you get to negotiate between a green and a red buoy (and in Tahiti, it’s “Red Wrong Returning,” or “Green Right Returning”). Once you pass between the buoys, you then get to guess the correct direction to miss the 13- to 15-foot breaking seas on both sides of you. Okay, there are those who have done this who will say, “What an idiot, there are bearing markers on the island you can line up.” To Tabitha in a great these doubters I should add, we left photo by Jessie in during a squall and couldn’t see over Bora Bora 100 feet. Add to that 10- to 12-foot rollers were pushing us out the pass, and you will get a small idea of the true fun we were having. But, somehow, all nine boats made it, and we were soon in a 20-mile washing machine with some of the most mixed up seas and little to no wind. What fun! We were the sixth boat to exit the pass. We hit one giant wave on the way out that was at least 30-35 feet (it was more than half the height of the boat’s 68-foot tall mast), which gave everyone onboard quite a thrill! It made the reported six- to seven-meter seas on the crossing tame by comparison.
www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 70-79 Tahiti Share The sail EditedBySue.indd 9
It was rocky and rolly as we motored with our mainsail up to try and level the boat. But, being a catamaran, the motion was kinda fun, rocking side to side while rocking forward and aft. Still, we all managed to make it through the channel without puking, and we were soon anchored in a beautiful lagoon. Here, the crew of the Bob Boat dove in and swam to where one of the hotels was doing a shark feed, and we were surrounded with sharks and rays. It was a great afternoon. In the morning we motored around the small island and over to where Bloody Mary’s is located. After a quick trip to the town docks to reprovision (gotta get more rum!), we headed over to Bloody Mary’s to tie up at their dock, so we wouldn’t have to stumble too far after the party. We have been going to Bloody Mary’s for almost 25 years now, and it is our favorite place on the islands. They have four moorings for guests, so we had to split up, with some cruisers at anchor and others on the moorings. The Z Boat did the march up the hill behind Bloody Mary’s for a great aerial view of the reef below. All survived.
Cruising Outpost 77
7/24/18 3:05 PM
Herding Cats in Paradise It was another magical night. The weather was perfect, night was as beautiful as it could get, with little-toand the people at Bloody Mary’s bent over backwards no clouds and millions of stars overhead, including to make this one grand event. At 5:30 p.m., the bar was the Southern Cross. We all got a kick out of Jeff and invaded by 86 of us. At 6:00 p.m., the Debbie’s kids, who kept texting photos music starring Eric Stone began. The from the Boston fireworks. drinks were good, and the food was Early the next day the crew loaded great. It was buffet style, with more food into the dinghy and headed across the than anyone could eat (even me!). reef to the dive spot where giant bat rays Many of the people in our group were known to hang out. They were were in Tahiti for the first time, and huge, some as big as ten feet across. this was their first time seeing the A little later we headed over the Southern Cross constellation. So, when shallows and up to the last anchorage Eric started to play “Southern Cross,” in Bora Bora for some swimming, the sand dance floor was packed with snorkeling, and diving. We pulled into barefoot cruisers in their finest aloha the most beautiful clear water we had shirts and tropical dresses. seen this trip. It was only about six feet Twenty-five years ago, Jody and I deep, but a few yards away you could first sailed in and met Craig, who runs stand in four feet of crystal clear water. Stand-up paddleboards Bloody Mary’s. This is the fourth time While there, the originator of the in Bora Bora we have brought a group in for a party Spectra Water Maker system, Bill there. But this year, we were surprised Edinger, kayaked over to say hi. He’d to meet the original owner, who started Bloody Mary’s 43 sold the company to Katadyne a couple years earlier years ago. and was now cruising on his custom trimaran. He was There are no words to describe how great this party anchored less than 50 feet behind us. How’s that for a was. We had the perfect weather, the perfect group of small world? cruisers, and Eric Stone live, filling the large palapa-style The crews of the Outpost fleet all loaded into dinghies restaurant with tropical sounds. to motor around to the outside of the reef for some more There were at least a dozen after-parties going snorkeling, and to see the eagle rays. Meanwhile, Dorothy late into the night aboard the various boats of the fleet. and I stayed aboard and had bat rays and huge fish Midnight skinny dipping was involved, but as we all surrounding the boat while we fed them bread. It was a know, what happens in Bora Bora truly magical spot. As a matter of fact, never happened. the snorkeling at the backside of the reef In the morning the four boats that was the best anyone had ever seen, and were on the seven-day Share The Sail there were a lot of experienced cruisers headed back to Taha’a and Raiatea, while who have dove all over the world, and the remaining boats, on the ten-day they all agreed: This had to be the most event, did a little shopping in town. We beautiful anchorage and snorkeling Eric & Kim Stone then headed around to the pass and the anywhere. Period! backside of Bora Bora. One couple on In the morning, it was time to head the Bob Boat had reservations at the Four to see more of paradise. We motored Seasons Hotel on the reef off Bora Bora, so we decided this around to the Bora Bora Yacht Club to spend the night would be a good place to anchor and spend the night. If it’s there. We reserved a table on the dock at the club and good enough for the Four Seasons, I guess we could hang dinghied in for a good meal... or so we thought. awhile, right? For some reason, which we still have not figured Since we were one of the seven-day boats that left out, the normal meal time we expected, about an hour, in the morning, we decided to come clean and admit the quadrupled. After watching a great sunset, we were pretty truth: the ice-maker on our boat worked great! And I have much ignored all evening. As cruising is a vocation that to admit, every time we used it I could hear Bob’s voice in takes patience, we were pretty much okay with it all, but my head: “I can’t recommend decadence as a way of life, we did notice that table after table would come in, get but it has worked for me”! served, finish, and leave while we waited. That night, being the Fourth of July, the barbecues The next day we sailed (motored actually) out the were all busy turning out burgers and hot dogs. The pass, and made our way back to the island of Taha’a.
78 Cruising Outpost
pg 70-79 Tahiti Share The sail EditedBySue.indd 10
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/24/18 3:05 PM
We found a decent anchorage near the Coral Gardens, which Captain Zuzana said was some of the best snorkeling she’d seen, and soon her point was proven. It was truly beautiful. That night was Debbie’s birthday on our boat. We’d known about it before leaving the states, so Jody packed candles and paper plates with a birthday theme and brought them with us. In town she bought one vanilla and one chocolate pound cake, and while no one was looking she piled one on top of the other, with a layer of Nutella between them, and then frosted them with chocolate frosting. That night we toasted Debbie’s birthday in style. Once again, a magical evening. The snorkeling was so good that when we awoke the next day we decided to go out again before we pulled up anchor. Next, we planned to sail out the Paipai pass, and south to Vaoaara Bay on Raiatea, where there was to be a dance competition in a small village on the western coast. We decided to use the inside passage and, using just our gennaker, sailed between reefs following the red buoys on the island side and staying inside the green buoys to the outside. There were some passes that were pretty narrow, but that made it all the more exciting. It took less than an hour to make the four miles from where we anchored off Taha’a to the anchorage on the west side of Raiatea. As we approached the anchorage we saw the Jeff Boat and the Tom Boat on moorings and slid into a mooring nearby. As the sun set, the drums started and the bay was filled with the sounds of Polynesian rhythms. It was surreal.
By nightfall there were four boats moored, and the crews went ashore to see the “dance-off” for the island of Raiatea. Each island has a dance-off to choose the best dancers from that island. Then the winners from each island move on to find the best from each island group, like the Society Islands, Tuamotus, Marquesas, etc. The winner of this contest will move on to the world championships in San Diego, California! Sitting under the stars aboard our catamaran, hearing the drums, and looking up at the Southern Cross was about as good as it could get! But all good things must come to an end (Why is that, Captain Ron?), and in the morning we all headed out to return the boats on the northern coast of Raiatea. Fueling and unloading took only an hour or so, and soon everyone was heading in multiple directions. Some were staying a few days in Raiatea, some (like me and Jody) had to get back ASAP so we could get this issue put to bed, and others f lew to Moorea, Papeete, or back to Bora Bora to extend their time in the area. It was hard to say goodbye. Many of the people from this event have participated before in our Share The Sails - we even had people who were at our very first one, 20 years ago, right here in the most beautiful cruising area on earth, the Society Islands of French Polynesia. Our next event is in the British Virgin Islands. Join us, won’t you?
Sunset while anchored on the backside of Bora Bora. www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 70-79 Tahiti Share The sail EditedBySue.indd 11
Cruising Outpost 79
7/24/18 3:06 PM
Herding Cats in Paradise Another View The Tahiti Share The Sail Through The Eyes Of Our Outposters
Sharks, Mantas & Rays
From the distance we saw the magnificent monolithic structures that make up the skyline of Bora Bora. We arrived and anchored off the island after a magnificent sail through 8- to 12-foot swells. We dinghied over to a cruising boat from Vancouver, Canada. “Did you hear about the manta rays here?” Wow, manta rays? Where? When? “Over there by the shore around 8 a.m.” The next morning we had a quick coffee, jumped in the dinghy, grabbed Nadine and Ken and headed to the spot. We found a dive boat so figured following them was a good bet. We handed over our smelly bag of five-day-old tuna to feed the mantas. We were a little nervous about swimming around with it in waters with sharks and rays.) The scuba divers entered the water and were soon out of sight. No way were we going to see any mantas. We decided to head back to the mother ship and then we saw a couple of local guides taking out snorkelers. We swam over and looked down—there they were. Giant manta rays swimming around—five or six. Magnificent creatures. Our adventures on Bora Bora continued. We took the dinghy with Noel and Nadine to shore and walked about a kilometer down the beach. We entered the water and caught a ripping current. What a ride, and beautiful coral. As soon as Val got in the water, a large blacktipped shark cruised by. Immediately she gave the universal hand signal for shark. No one else saw the shark. What a thrill! The next visitor was a large barracuda who watched us intently and then swam off into the deep
80 Cruising Outpost
pg 80-83 Tahiti extended EditedBySue.indd 2
By Valerie March
blue. Then, “Val, eagle ray.” Sure enough, an eagle ray circled us, and then, two more. After an amazing morning of snorkeling, it was back to the mother ship. The captain and crew raised the anchor and Curie, captain and crew, sadly left Bora Bora and headed for the open seas towards Raiatea. It was a beautiful sail to Raiatea—a sail that makes your heart soar. Little did we know that we were about to enter “reefer madness” as Dennis, our scribe, described it. “What’s going on with these markers?” Quick reverse, then oops—crunch. We were hard aground on a coral head. After much debate and good effort, we almost got off, but it wasn’t going to happen. The big motor cat rescue boat arrived with four handsome and fit Polynesian men who only spoke French. Stan to the rescue! He seemed to have unearthed his childhood French from Montreal. We were af loat again and moving; everyone needed a stiff drink. There was lots of conversation as we all settled in to enjoy the sunset. After a morning trip to the pearl farm, we went back in the afternoon to snorkel nearby. Stan, Houston, Ken and I anchored about 100 metres northeast of the hut. It was a beautiful reef, but then Val saw a large shark cruise by. It might’ve been a grey shark or bull shark. Shark signal once again on the head and lots of yelling, but no one else saw it. Do they believe I saw a shark two days in a row while snorkeling? Houston and Ken decided to get out of the shark infested waters and headed for the dinghy. www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/29/18 10:13 AM
The dance competition was truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience. So authentic—not some cheesy show put on for the tourists. Truly a celebration for the local village. Beautiful French Polynesian costumes. The most moving performance of the evening was the one celebrating Mother Earth; a massive Polynesian woman simulating giving birth with the entire community celebrating joyfully.
It was a short motor back to the Dream Charter Yacht base on a rainy day - a bad weather front coming through. We were very fortunate with the weather during our 10-day adventure. It was really terrific to meet Bob and Jody after so many years of reading Latitudes & Attitudes. Great folks who’ve led and are leading a life of adventure.
Chaos & A Turquoise Paradise On the dock—Curie, our 55’ Catana catamaran isn’t ready. Jody’s pissed and so is Marie. No ice. Meetings and greetings amidst confusion and chaos, nobody is allowed on their boat. Provisions are unaccounted for, it’s getting hot, and luggage and crew are piling up on the dock. Confusion and chaos, until we shove off, then the starboard steering idler falls off. Anchored four miles out, fix idler. Swim. Fresh tuna for dinner with wicked wasabi among gorgeous, lush, green, mountains and motus. Up early for full Strawberry Moon and sunrise at 6:34. Heading to Huahine this a.m. with wind on the nose and nine boats. Smiles are spreading. Our group: Jeff and Marie, Noel and Nadine, Craig and Houston, Stanley and Val, Dennis and Marlene, and Ken. Jews, Protestants, Catholics, Agnostics and an Atheist. Democrats and Republicans. Gracefully ageing hippies and a cop. And Houston. Craig fixes breakfast of sausage and eggs and Nadine does spaghetti dinner for 11, most of whom have never met before. Hang out, swim, tan, and drink, while anchored in a turquoise lagoon off Huahine for a beautiful moonrise. Lazy Day on Huahine—Banana pancakes for breakfast, then eight go to shore to shop. Swim, snorkel, snooze, and then off to dinner with Tahitian dancers at local restaurant… “How did they do that and what did I just eat?” Love the lack of organization as far as “flotilla” goes… Our boat, Curie, feels free. www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 80-83 Tahiti extended EditedBySue.indd 3
By Dennis Mullen
Now what? Pulled anchor at 7 a.m. Off to Taha’a for vanilla and pearls. Beautiful day with following winds and seas, hanging off the bow with “Rollin’ Blues” under my feet. Tied to a mooring ball in an absolutely gorgeous Taha’a lagoon for a swim before dinner. Stanley leaves on an SUP and returns with ukuleleplaying local leader who entertained and brought limes. Bora Bora. The water is over 9’000 feet deep on the way here and we are riding waves that are over our heads and vertical, with Bora Bora getting closer and closer and greener and greener. What a chunk of rock. Bora Bora is 5.5 miles long and 2.5 miles wide with a chunk of basalt jutting 2,835 feet into the clouds, and there’s only one way in and one way out through the ring of coral that surrounds the sapphire lagoon. Michener was right…Bora Bora is the prettiest place on the planet. Eleven people, strangers becoming friends, working together for a South Pacific sunset with steaks and garlic mashed potatoes is as good as it gets…dishes and all…anchored off Bora Bora, halfway around the world. This dream trip of a lifetime is 10 times better than I expected and Marlene is beautiful. We are going to Bloody Mary’s tomorrow night, but Marlene is beautiful here tonight, here on Bora Bora. Mauruuru to Bob and Jody for putting this all together, to Jeff and Marie for captaining Curie, to the crew of Curie, and most of all, to Marlene!
Cruising Outpost 81
7/29/18 10:13 AM
Herding Cats in Paradise
Diving In The Islands By Tabitha Lipkin
During our Tahiti Share the Sail, I took a different approach to seeing what the French Polynesian waters had to offer… I took a peak below the surface with Top Dive. When you imagine Tahiti, I know you’re thinking about the palm trees, over-water bungalows, and Mai Tais that put even the best bars in the world to shame, BUT, you should also take a moment to realize it hosts some of the most biologically diverse species on the planet. My first dive was in Papeete the day I arrived. I spent most of the day exploring with my new friends Rolfi (our driver), Jessie, Katie, and my boyfriend Chris, looking at the diversity of the land and markets. Little did I know that the best diversity was about a 20-minute boat ride outside the reef to “White Valley”. “We saw a tiger shark this morning,” said my Dive Master Franc. “I hope we see it this afternoon.” Franc was expressive and very happy to help me film my experience, fully preparing my GoPros and his for our excursion. Top Dive had arranged a private dive with just me, Franc, and our captain. The three of us descended to an immediate greeting of HUNDREDS of blacktip reef sharks… several schools of fish… and one very curious lemon shark. No tiger shark on this dive. The waters were so warm and clear, and I was having such a fantastic time - I looked down about 40 minutes in at my computer and I couldn’t believe how fast time had f lown. This was one of my favorite moments of our trip. My second dive was scheduled for several days later in Bora Bora. The morning was foggy with pink and purple undertones from the sunrise. My Dive Master Enzo picked me right up from the dock of Bloody Mary’s to take me to see the manta rays. It was about a 25-minute boat ride to the other side of Bora Bora. There, we were not the only divers… But after a few laughs with Enzo I knew we would have the most fun. “When you see the manta ray, lay low, they don’t like the big movements and will come closer if you’re still,” Enzo said.
82 Cruising Outpost
pg 80-83 Tahiti extended EditedBySue.indd 4
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/29/18 10:13 AM
Another View
Before I could do any of that, we spotted a manta ray almost immediately upon descending. The sheer size, grace, and stillness of the water around the ray felt like a sign of good luck. To which it was… Before the end of the dive we saw a total of five different rays about the size of a pickup truck within a span of about 40 minutes, each equally as awe-inspiring as the next. People always ask me, “Weren’t you afraid?” No. Mantas have almost no way of harming you. They’re big gentle giants. Their tails don’t sting. They’re not aggressive, and they bring a sense of calm to the ocean. Next time you visit French Polynesia, take in all you can above the surface, but don’t forget to see what’s below as well.
SEA FROST ®
12-Volt DC Refrigeration & Freezer Systems Top Quality Materials & Construction Maximum Efficiency for Alternate Energy Powering Highest Customer Satisfaction
Works well with
Sea Frost, Old Concord Tpke. Barrington, NH 03825 PH: 603-868-5720
www.seafrost.com
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/29/18 10:13 AM
≠≠≠
pg 80-83 Tahiti extended EditedBySue.indd 5
Cruising Outpost 83
84 Cruising Outpost pg 84-95 LifestyleEditedBySue.indd 2
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/24/18 3:15 PM
Lifestyle A Look at Why We Do What we Do
Ever wondered why people love the boating lifestyle? Well, here in the Lifestyle section folks from all over the world give an insight into what it’s really like out there. If you have a photo you think tells a good tale, why not send it to us? We prefer you send a digital pic, in as high resolution as you can. Tell us who took the pic and where it was taken. We will probaby throw it into our “digital pile” and pull it out someday. We won’t send you any money, but you will be famous worldwide! Email to: Lifestyle@Cruisingoutpost.com.
By Chris, Key Largo sunset at Upper Keys Sailing Club
www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 84-95 LifestyleEditedBySue.indd 3
Cruising Outpost 85
7/24/18 3:15 PM
By Raymond Muzika, Fragata ARA Libertad, near left, Alexander Von Humboldt II, Charleston, SC
By Heather Shine, S/V Cerridwen and crew
By Greg Sage, Pacific Northwest
86 Cruising Outpost pg 84-95 LifestyleEditedBySue.indd 4
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/24/18 3:15 PM
By Joe Perez of Joe & Ted during Westpoint Regatta rounding Alcatraz in SF Bay
By Gary Czarnecki of 51’ Formosa S/V Eagle in Catalina Island’s Avalon Harbor - very rare to be there all alone!
Why do we press harder on a remote control when we know the batteries are flat?
By Ian Davies, standing watch somewhere between Fiji and Vanuatu
By John Simpson, River Colne, Ipswich
Taylor Swift helping friends off boat
By Gordy Cox of Gordy and crew on a Moorings 4800 in Bora Bora
St. Pete’s Four Dock crew on Wardwick Cay, Bahamas: from the left - S/V SE of Disorder, S/V Z-Raye, S/V Sanitas, and S/V Orion at the far right www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 84-95 LifestyleEditedBySue.indd 5
Cruising Outpost 87 7/24/18 3:16 PM
By Conn Williamson, trying out our new MPS sails on Jasmyn, a 1982 Amel Mago, Magnetic Island, Queensland
By Alexandra of Alex at Coco Bay on Green Turtle Cay - “It’s like looking down on Heaven”
By Cindy Holden of bird guests
By Gary of Kenai Peninsula in Alaska
By Murray Abbott, Toronto, Canada
92 Cruising Outpost pg 84-95 LifestyleEditedBySue.indd 10
By Nate Kraft, Pacific Coast of Mexico
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/24/18 3:18 PM
By Bob on S/V Orion abchored in Spanish Wells
By Daniel Bowman of Jake Bowman at anchor, Virgin Gorda
By Gary, Spirit of Sobraon, Malaysia & Borneo
By Mark Wareham, taken on the northeast coast of Newfoundland
www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 84-95 LifestyleEditedBySue.indd 11
Cruising Outpost 93 7/24/18 3:18 PM
Yes, You Really Living The Lifestyle
It’s a debate that’s been raging for years, as old as feminism itself: Can women have it all? A family, and a career? Throughout the long history of this ongoing struggle, there’s one very important subset of the population missing from the “Having It All” discussion.
pg 96-101 Cruising with Kids & Business.EditedBySuendd.indd 2
7/28/18 11:15 AM
Can Have It All
With Kids & Business
It’s a demographic defined not by gender, but by lifestyle. A group frequently ignored, marginalized, and forgotten, but one that may be able to settle the debate once and for all, for all genders. I refer, of course, to cruisers. Can cruisers really enjoy a successful career and a
By Devon Thurtle Anderson
successful family life? Can cruisers “have it all”? The answer is: absolutely. When S/V Mobert set out from Seattle in 2017, it wasn’t our intention to “have it all.” In fact, our work and family lives had been so imbalanced for so long that our primary
Cruising Outpost 97
pg 96-101 Cruising with Kids & Business.EditedBySuendd.indd 3
7/28/18 11:15 AM
Yes, You Really Can Have It All
cruising goal was abandoning work completely to focus on our two girls, who were four and six at the time. In other words, we wanted to become what all great cruisers are: glorified bums. I’m happy to report that we were wildly successful in that endeavor. For three months, we cruised the stunning wilderness of Southeast Alaska, filling our days with family hikes, family whale-watching, family fishing, family cultural experiences, and family, family, family. The girls began to thrive in the security and stability of our new, ever-present family unit, and life was good. As fall approached, we turned south again, and started our three-month journey to the Sea of Cortez. There, we spent an awe-filled winter snorkeling, swimming, and exploring, all together, all the time. We thought we’d grow sick of each other, but instead our adventure further fortified all aspects of our happy little family, bringing us closer together than we ever knew was possible. I watched the girls grow and blossom, making astonishing improvements in their confidence and maturity. After six months, we had done it: we finally achieved the strength and stability of family we’d spent the last seven years desperately over-working to achieve on land. We certainly didn’t “have it all” in the work/family sense of academic feminist dialogue, but our family was strong and thriving. As 2017 came to an end, Rich (my husband) and I started discussing the idea of adding work back into our lives. At first, it was more of a joke than a serious proposition. And then an opportunity arose. The former owners of SeaTech Systems were retiring and looking to sell the business. SeaTech’s focus on communications and connectivity for cruisers was a perfect fit for Rich’s technical skills. He was already helping our cruiser friends select, install, and troubleshoot their satellite, AIS, and radio systems. He did it just for fun (and for the occasional free margaritas). Making a business out of it was no great leap. We didn’t realize it, but we were about to “have it all.”
98 Cruising Outpost pg 96-101 Cruising with Kids & Business.EditedBySuendd.indd 4
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/28/18 11:15 AM
Kids & Business
The leap was deciding to continue cruising while running our new business. If balancing work and family back home was difficult, how could we balance the two while also making passages, working on boat projects, and dealing with the reality that marina wifi pretty consistently sucks? As with all challenges in life, these challenges presented opportunity. We would be selling equipment designed to keep cruisers connected; surely we could solve these problems for our own business. If not, how could we claim to provide solutions to other cruisers? So, we entered into negotiations to purchase SeaTech Systems, and simultaneously put the business model itself to the test. For three weeks, we cruised the Sea of Cortez with almost no cell or wifi as we negotiated the purchase and sale agreement. We emailed contracts back and forth, reviewed financials, and finalized and signed the agreement, all via the satellite systems we would soon be selling. The test was a success, and come closing, we were ready to dive in! That three-week negotiation period also presented the challenge and opportunity of testing our newly forged family bonds. Could they withstand the weight of work? Admittedly, the workload during that time wasn’t overwhelming, but it gave us the inkling that we’d need to reorganize our family foundation to make room for the work to fit in. So, we set about rearranging the pieces to make everything fit. The test of our family came in January 2018, when we closed on our purchase of SeaTech Systems. Immediately, we flew to Seattle, and just four days
www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 96-101 Cruising with Kids & Business.EditedBySuendd.indd 5
Cruising Outpost 99
7/28/18 11:15 AM
First Stripe By Lea Ann Rock
H
ow long has it been since you said, “Wow, that was the first time!” Life has changed on S/V Nomad and there are many “first times.” It’s fun, exciting, scary and a little unsettling, but the crew is embracing all the changes. For years on S/V Faith, we traveled with our beautiful toy Australian Shepherd, Jazz Rock. Jazz loved the boat life. She crossed the Gulf of Mexico, crossed the Gulf Stream and loved the Bahamas as much as we do. I can still remember her first glass of water with ice. We had a hard sail down to Key West and stumbled into Sloppy Joe’s. The waitress brought over a glass from the bar with water and ice for Jazz. She always considered Sloppy Joe’s
110 Cruising Outpost
pg 110-119 Lats & Atts e=EditedBySue.indd 2
a high class sort of place. We only have Jazz memories now. She went to Fiddler’s Green on September 11, 2015. We tried all the arguments about how much easier our lives would be without a dog. They didn’t work because dog people are dog people. May, 2016 found us in Clewiston, Florida purchasing a Miniature Australian Shepherd. We talked about names all the way to the breeder’s home. The captain, David, is a musician and we wanted a name with a musical theme. We settled on Gypsy Jazz, a popular type of music in Australia. With a last name like Rock, we had it made.
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/30/18 2:02 PM
We brought Gypsy Jazz Rock back to Nomad. Our lives and hers were changed forever. A new crew member is always a chance for disaster. Will the personalities match? Will the crew member get seasick? Will the new crew want to jump ship at the first port? Gypsy settled into training. She learned the purpose of the artificial grass, how to ride in a dinghy and the joys of kayaking. She decided her dinghy style would include hanging over the side of the dinghy and getting a little water spray on her face. She is a rough, tough, tomboy and a great crew member. She finds land life full of rules and the word “no.” On Nomad, she is relaxed and enjoys watching the water activities around the anchorage. In February, Gypsy Jazz’s life changed again with her first offshore sail in the Atlantic. We upped anchor early and made our way out the St. Lucie Inlet. Our first sail was an easy trip from Stuart, Florida to Palm Beach. This trip would ready Nomad for a departure to Bimini.This short trip was also my first offshore sail since getting the
A.
b.
Unique Jewelry for seafarers "A" Silver Anchor Bracelet from $760.00 " B" Nantucket Braid Gold Bracelet from $3,600.00 • "C C. Men Gold Turks Head Ring 3 Strand from $1,525.00 "D" 14K Shackle D. Earring for Men $180.00
Beautiful Nautical Jewelry Custom Craftmanship Created in the Hawaiian Islands
866 Iwilei Road, Honolulu, HI, 96817 855-353-9995 info@aumaris.com
w w w. a u m a r i s . c om www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 110-119 Lats & Atts e=EditedBySue.indd 3
Cruising Outpost 111
7/30/18 2:02 PM
“Big D” (Type 1 Diabetes). I was a little nervous, but not scared. This was a test and if Gypsy could make the trip, then I could make the trip. David sailed Nomad while the two girls enjoyed the coastal view. It felt like the trip was ending before we even got started. The Palm Beach inlet was smooth and we had a nice inbound tide; a perfect first experience for Gypsy and me. David and I had been monitoring the Gulf Stream weather carefully. We really wanted a smooth crossing to Bimini. All reports predicted the winds would shift and we would have a nice crossing. Oh my!! We have been at this game long enough to know better. The wind gods do what they want and laugh at our attempts to predict their behavior. Our crossing was long and we had to fight the wind the entire way. The shift in wind direction was a dream that didn’t occur. Many hours after our planned arrival, we found ourselves at the entry to Bimini. The plan we made while stateside was to cross to Bimini, check in and clear Customs/Immigration and continue to Nassau. A cold front was approaching, but we would have over 24 hours to get to Nassau to weather the front. After Nassau, we would sail to the Exumas and reach George Town around Valentine’s day. All of our planning was geared to get us into Bimini with favorable tides. The extra hours we spent crossing the stream translated into a couple of hours on the hook waiting for the inbound tide at Bimini. As we waited for the water to rise, we saw our window of opportunity to get to Nassau diminishing. Finally, we had to call the game. We decided to wait out the front in Bimini. Now, I like Bimini and I especially love the resort on South Bimini, Bimini Sands.
112 Cruising Outpost
pg 110-119 Lats & Atts e=EditedBySue.indd 4
A few days tied up to their docks, enjoying the infinity pool, park, and private beach sounded wonderful. You could hear Gypsy and I cheering in the background. Maybe the wind gods were really on our side. Hey, with the “Big D” I have to have some friends helping out in the heavenly realm. The tide eventually brought the water back. Soon, we found ourselves snug in a slip with the three air conditioning units humming. David and I sat back to review the crossing. Gypsy had a wonderful voyage. She slept more than normal. She wore her life jacket without complaint. She wasn’t interested in her artificial grass, but it was a really rough crossing. We were really glad she did not get seasick. Gypsy stayed with me the entire trip. When I went downstairs to catch a little sleep, Gypsy went with me. She curled up on the bed and never moved. When I took the helm to give David time for a short rest, Gypsy sat beside me as co-pilot. How did I do? My big job as a Type 1 Diabetic was to keep my blood sugar readings in the zone. Additionally, my Endocrinologist told me to not get seasick. If you suffer from seasickness, you know that it only gets worse if you think about not getting sick. I had been thinking about this since August when I was diagnosed. I have found Stugeron works about 95% of the time in preventing seasickness. I didn’t know if Stugeron would increase my blood glucose readings. Two hours before we left Palm Beach, I took my first dose of Stugeron. I kept a close watch on my sugar readings and all was well. I had never stayed awake all night and didn’t know how that would affect
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/30/18 2:03 PM
my readings. It appeared to have no affect. I ate snacks as my blood sugar level would drop and took my shots on schedule. The Stugeron worked like always and I did not feel seasick at all. The highest blood glucose reading I had in the 24-hour period was 141 and the lowest was 78. That is pretty darn good for a rough crossing with a new Type 1 Diabetic. It was not easy giving myself insulin shots in the rough conditions. David slowed the boat and backwinded the sails to smooth the motion. It helped to have Nomad a little less bumpy. Thursday, we awoke in our slip at Bimini Sands. I decided Gypsy needed a bandana to symbolize her “First Stripe” for her first crossing of the Gulf Stream. Gypsy argued that a tattoo was much cooler, but changed her mind when she learned her hair would have to be shaved. Off we went to North Bimini in search of the perfect bandana. I thought a Gecko Green bandana would be the right color for a First Stripe. The bandana was found and Gypsy wore it like a badge. Now she wants to know if she gets a Second Stripe for crossing the Tongue of the Ocean. That dog!! If you are wondering if you can live your dream, then the answer is yes. I have sailed for years while enjoying excellent health. Now, life is a little different. I have an extraordinary captain/husband willing to help me live my dreams. You have to be willing to ask for the help you need, then accept the help. Life is too short to be dreaming... start living!! See you at the next beach party. I will be easy to spot. My dog will be wearing a a bright bandana.
It’s All Here...
n, Boat i ne i D Golf & GE S A PACK
golf
marina & rv park
inn & waterfront dining
home
Port Ludlow Marina is open year round & offers: • Boat In and Golf Packages Available • 26 miles of walking trails • Waterfront Dining • Covered Pavilion and BBQ Fire Pit • Fuel Dock and Pump Out • Free WiFi • Marina Store
www.PortLudlowResort.com • 360.437.0513 WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
pg 110-119 Lats & Atts e=EditedBySue.indd 5
Cruising Outpost 113
7/30/18 2:03 PM
W
Marvin The Marlin
e were three days out of St. Helena Island, sailing west with the trade winds in the South Atlantic Ocean. The hand line dragging behind the boat had been all but forgotten, without a bite since departing the island. The sun was beating down and our crew of four were huddled under the postage stamp-sized shade of the bimini over the cockpit. The breeze was nonexistent since we were flying the spinnaker on autopilot, moving with the wind, and only a few degrees south of the Equator. The deep blue color of the sea was tranquilizing as only it can be when you are a thousand miles to the closest landfall, the bottom is a mile below, and there is not a cloud in the sky. I was trying to find a comfortable place to stretch out and read the 14th novel I had gone through since the beginning of this voyage from the coast of Africa. This was my first ocean crossing, and the boredom was settling in. I was glad I was doing this, because now I can cross “ocean crossing in small sailboat” off my list. The gentle motion of the boat kept forcing my eyes to flutter shut while I was trying to concentrate on Hemingway. The 80-pound-test monofilament line attached to a feather jig was wrapped three times around the 4-inch diameter stainless steel arch on the aft of my brand new,
114 Cruising Outpost
pg 110-119 Lats & Atts e=EditedBySue.indd 6
By Capt. James F. Cash
just “out of the box” sailing catamaran, 36 feet in length, that I had commissioned to be built in Durban, South Africa. A large loop was secured in the line with a springloaded clothespin, then led though a small block on the end of a bungee cord that led into the water to disappear. Before leaving South Africa and preparing for this adventure, I had visions of highly-polished wood, deep sea fishing poles with big brass reels. I visited a fishing tackle supply store in Durban and talked with an old, wrinkled man who made Spencer Tracy in Old Man and the Sea look like an amateur. His accent was so thick I had to cock my head and stare at his lips to get what he was saying. “All ya need is a hand line and feather jig,” he said after I explained about our upcoming departure. I was prepared to spend thousands and then walked out of the store with a small bag and about $25 added to the South African economy. The old fisherman had been right. On the second day out from Durban skirting the coast toward Port Elizabeth, I decided to try out my new rig. We tied on a feather jig and played out the line. In less than 30 minutes I had hooked and landed a nice tuna and the crew enjoyed sashimi straight from the fish itself. On this particular mid-afternoon, dozing with my book balanced on my chest, I awoke with a start as the clothespin
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/30/18 2:04 PM
From $175/night!
LEARN TO SAIL!
Warm Year ‘Round! Award Winning Instructors
Learn & Live On Site & Sail at No Charge Plus Learn Navigation, Bareboat, Weather & More!
Call NOW to Answer Why, Where & How Much!
snapped with a loud pop and sailed in a lofting arc out over the water. My stare was drawn toward the line as I saw it tighten around the stainless tube creating a small trail of white smoke from the melting plastic. “Fish!” I shouted as all eyes turned aft. I distinctly felt a noticeable slowing of the boat. Behind the boat, 100 meters away, a large silver and blue fish was dancing on its tail above the surface. My crew shouted, “It’s a Marlin!” We scrambled to get the spinnaker down and prepared to struggle with the fish. In all our other fish catching experiences, starting with the tuna, when the line tightened, the fish would pop to the surface and skate behind the boat until being lifted aboard. This fish was different; he did not like being caught and was not coming in without a fight. With the spinnaker down, the boat slowed dramatically with just enough forward momentum from the reefed mainsail to keep from bobbing in the gentle swells. Two of us put on our sailing gloves and grabbed the line, which by then felt like a piece of steel wire descending into the water. After considerable effort and our gloves being cut down through the leather, we decided to let the fish play and hoped the line did not break. I was thinking maybe we should just let this one go. After all, we didn’t really need to eat it, though it had been several days since we had fresh fish. However, my crew were all for the sport. Boredom at sea does funny things to your brain and it was now “Man Against Fish,” and I too, was caught up in the moment.
www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 110-119 Lats & Atts e=EditedBySue.indd 7
305-451-3438 www.keylimesailingclub.com
Cruising Outpost 115
7/30/18 2:05 PM
We watched the line and the fish seemingly challenge each other; when the fish would dive, the line would slacken. When that happened, we would try to gain a few inches, but as the fish surfaced we would lose the line again as it pulled through our gloves. This went on for what seemed like an eternity. “This is where that shiny brass fishing reel would come in handy,” I thought out loud. “Huh?” was the response from the crew. Then I saw one of them looking at the sheet winch.” There is our reel,” he said, and the next time the line slacked enough to get a purchase, we managed to get several wraps around the port side #65 Lewmar. Now when the line tightened, it held. I could not believe the line had not snapped, but held, and its slackening was happening more frequently as we cranked away. Soon, the fish was close enough to be seen clearly under the water’s surface. It looked young, skinny, only about seven feet long with a bill no more than a foot long. It turned, and I saw a look in its eye, opened in terror, and the jig securely hooked in the corner of its mouth. A twinge of guilt surfaced again, but I kept my feelings to myself and resumed cranking away. The fight was leaving the fish and we were able to drag it out of the water onto the steps of the port side sugar scoop. I ran for the bottle of cheap cane liquor we had used to kill all the other fish, pouring a good dollop into the gills. The young marlin exploded with a new surge of energy, almost smacking one of my crew into the water as it tried to stand on its tail and escape. It was hard for me to watch as someone grabbed a hammer and was clubbing the fish in the head. Man had won this fight, or should I say four against one? It took four intelligent human beings more than an hour of exhilarating effort to capture and kill one adolescent, exhausted billfish. I tried not to think about it. By late afternoon we had butchered the fish, which had been named Marvin, saving the tail fin which was hung prominently from the starboard bow pulpit. The head and bill were slipped overboard and sank gently back to the deep when the filleting was over. We were already envisioning the telling of this story back at our respective yacht clubs. Catching a blue marlin on a hand line—I was sure a liar’s contest could be won with the tale. I started feeling a little better about our barbaric action later, as the sun slipped into the western horizon. I sank my teeth into the hours-fresh marlin filet covered in garlic and lemon butter accompanied with coleslaw, and sipped a glass of sparkling Cape wine. Bon appetit.
116 Cruising Outpost
pg 110-119 Lats & Atts e=EditedBySue.indd 8
WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
7/31/18 5:05 PM
Exceptionally Clean Tasting Tank Water With A Twist!
Unexpected Company
Unique Top Load Twist & Drop Filter Installation
By Rick Taylor
• On-Demand Ultra-Clean Tasting Water
• Elegantly Styled,
Simple To Install Design
• Simple Filter Change Without • •
Install A Winner 4 Prestigious Industry Award Recognitions
Crawling Under Sink by Twisting Off Faucet Head Compact Filter Housing Maximizes Under Sink Storage Space 5 Micron & Ultra Fine .5 Micron Filters Available
Twist Off Faucet & Drop Filter Into Cartridge Simply
PureWater+™ by forespar
949.858.8820 (USA)
forespar.com/purewaterfilter.shtml
T
hrill seekers stalk adventure in the exotic or the extreme. But sometimes, thrills stalk us in the middle of the mundane. God is happy to use nature to remind us we are guests in what is still a very powerful, primeval world. My wife, Patti, and I were caught munching peanut butter as we puttered along Blakely Island’s eastern cliffs in our Hunter 36. We were heading south toward Anacortes in mid August after spending most of the summer in the San Juans. Life was lulled by the drowsy noises natural for a light wind day: engine gurgling, halyards clinking in the swell, birds calling, small waves off the bow. The sensations were familiar: sun, wind, wheel vibrating under my hands. With the boat on human autopilot, our minds were on books, lunch, and the San Juan Islands we were leaving. Then a shiver invaded my subconscious: a heavy, wet sigh followed by a swish and a glimpse of gleaming black
WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
pg 110-119 Lats & Atts e=EditedBySue.indd 9
Cruising Outpost 117
7/30/18 2:06 PM
120 Cruising Outpost
pg 120-129 Going Your Own WayEditedBySue.indd 2
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/30/18 1:36 PM
Going Your Own Way By Kia Koropp
Sumatra received her name by happenstance when Italian explorer and conqueror Marco Polo returned home and pronounced the island’s name, Samudra, with a lisp and popularized the mutation. Personally, I’m attached to her previous name for its local translation, “ocean.” Living on a yacht, I thought traveling to a country called Ocean sounded like a pretty good idea. Outside of an affection for the name, we came to Sumatra with little expectation other than a feeling that we had missed our opportunities for the year. At the time we had no clear plan and only fragmented ideas of what we might do with the remainder of the season. We realized that this year, more than any other, we would need to cast aside our expectations and find a new way forward.
www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 120-129 Going Your Own WayEditedBySue.indd 3
Cruising Outpost 121
7/30/18 1:37 PM
Going Your Own Way The 1292 slip of the tongue was about all we had to go on when deciding to set off for Sumatra. At the time we knew little of the country’s biodiversity, its rich cultural history, its diverse marine environment or the island gems that lie off the coast. We chose Sumatra by default. Forced to cancel our plans for an Indian Ocean crossing due to Braca’s diagnosis, we reunited as a family in May with our son’s diabetic crisis and our daughter’s hand operation behind us. By the time we regrouped it was too late to follow through with our original intentions. John and I felt we had few desired options as we were returning to Atea mid-season; we didn’t want to rush across the Indian Ocean to South Africa on a tight time frame, nor did we want to spend another year in Malaysia or Thailand. Where could we go that would allow us time as well as new territory? Sumatra popped up on our radar as an option for the year. Initially I was disheartened; we knew little of Sumatra because there was little cruising information on it. Cruisers do not typically travel her shores as the island lies too far south for boats traveling the northern route across the Indian Ocean, and it lies too far north for boats traveling the southern route. We departed for Sumatra knowing little of what to expect, but prepared for quiet solitude. I had resigned myself to making the most of what we could of the year, but feeling saddened that we’d been knocked off our track. Sumatra is a perfect example of what happens when the best-laid plans fail: something unexpectedly amazing. Now that I’ve had a preliminary introduction, I couldn’t speak more highly of the country from a tourist perspective: The people are gracious, friendly and good-natured, and the country is diverse and offers a wide range of options. Now that I’ve sailed her shores, I couldn’t speak more highly of the country from a cruiser’s perspective: The islands off the west coast are hidden gems, unspoiled and unexploited. This is contrary to the little information we had prior to arrival. An article posted by a fellow cruiser stated, “You may find hostility against non-Muslims by locals. For safety it is best not to bring women ashore into any village.” Reading this, I expected a very conservative Muslim society and initially covered myself head to toe when going ashore, and donned a headscarf when walking through any village. It didn’t take me long to recognize that I was a bit excessive. The smiles beamed at me regardless of my covering. I cannot imagine what situation brought on the negative experience of the other cruiser; John and I were warmly received and the kids doted on and adored. We didn’t have a single experience that led me
122 Cruising Outpost
pg 120-129 Going Your Own WayEditedBySue.indd 4
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/30/18 1:37 PM
to feel uncomfortable with the locals; it was completely the opposite. Braca and Ayla gained a reputation in the places we stayed, their names called out as we passed shops and children flocking by our sides as we wandered down streets. Women and men excitedly waved as we drove past them in our becak, smiles beaming. Where is this enthusiasm in our own culture? The simple pleasure in greeting a stranger, overtures made to assist any possible need or engage at every possible moment? In Sumatra, the people were as pleasant and as engaged as they could be, language barrier not withstanding. English is not commonly spoken and I did feel a loss at how superficial conversations were without a common language; it would have been so wonderful to get a deeper level of understanding of the people we met. There are so many instances that I would have loved to been able to ask for details. On one beach a local canoe arrived with two very sheepish looking locals, who trotted into the bush and emerged with a bunch of small bags filled with colourful reef fish, presumably to stock international aquariums. Neither of the two men welcomed our curiosity and it was clear that their acquisitions were not legally approved – perhaps shared language wouldn’t have provided answers regardless. On another day, we visited a hut hidden deep in the bush and found thousands of dead or dying hermit crabs, clearly collected and harvested for the shell and not the animal. Were the shells on their way to be ground down into herbal remedies in Asia? Were the www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 120-129 Going Your Own WayEditedBySue.indd 5
Does YOUR Anti-Fouling Last
10 + Years?
COPPERCOAT DOES!
www.coppercoatusa.com info@coppercoatusa.com 321-514-9197 Cruising Outpost 123
7/30/18 1:37 PM
Coming Home... Not Always An Easy Thing To Do!
Some of you may remember parts of our journey from the two front cover articles we shared in Cruising Outpost. As a family we sailed from Los Angeles down through Central America, to South America, and then across the South Pacific all the way to Australia. Our amazing one-way journey took us to 15 countries, across 15,000 miles, over 20 amazing months. We had planned and prepared for this adventure for years, and there is a reason this magazine is so popular with a running theme of “Get out there!” Because seeing the world while being so closely a part of nature is not some great “online” experience, it is life changing, spirit lifting, and humanity endearing magic. And those powerful moments make coming back something we found, and many we enjoyed sailing with have found, an unexpected challenge. There is so much wonderful information on preparing to go, but so little on preparing to return. Now, in true cruiser fashion, we wish to share some of the stories and lessons learned from coming back that we wish others had told us about:
140 Cruising Outpost
pg 140-143 Coming Home EditedBySue.indd 2
By Paul KortenKamp
THE PRACTICAL FIRST WEEK Here is just a feel of the things that we suddenly had to do coming home after our flight from Australia. We got picked up by family and driven to our home that we had rented out, only to find that we forgot we tossed our beds rather than store them. Off to store for air mattresses. Our AU phones did not work here in USA, so off to get phones so we can get internet to the house. We needed to buy a car. So rent a car, get internet hooked up, buy beds on-line to be delivered, get car, get car insurance, .… Two years without work shoes now meant feet do not fit. So new shoes. Then two years without socks… you guessed it, off to get socks… Just embrace the chaos and the need for old basics. ANNOUNCE YOUR RETURN Folks have not seen you in years, and many will not have your phone number or even know how to contact you. Have a big event. Show pictures. Tell stories. And get your phone number and email out to allow people to www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/26/18 11:18 AM
bring you back home. We hosted a big gathering to share our adventure with everyone and let everyone know we were back, with almost 200 people coming to enjoy the fun. We also got the girls back the last week of their old school so they could watch their friends graduate and connect with them before they all scattered for the summer. This really helped make gatherings and friend visits simpler. WORK If you have to go back to work, as we planned on having to do, try and get the job before your return. This makes many things simpler, from health care to credit, to even pushing a schedule into what used to be, at most, a weather-based schedule. Looking for work after coming back adds stress, and can make reconnecting that much harder. FOOD It is funny to write, but when cruising food is a constant dialog, from what did you catch, to where is a market, to what should we make. We talk about food throughout the day right into what to drink for sundowners. When we returned we got so busy we talked about what we could grab or fit in between tasks. And here is the really funny part, talking about food all day, living a slower life, got us back down to near our college weights, but eating quickly in a faster-paced life puts on the pounds! SOCIAL Cruising creates many lasting and wonderful friendships, often through short meetings. Coming back and seeing great friends and family that were a regular part of your life has a strangeness to it, where before it was simply comfortable. It takes time to even get used to being around each other again, and re-entering routines is not like jumping back on a bike. In our case we were gone for two years, and that is a lot of holidays, birthdays, and barbecues without each other around to share those stories. You all like each other and are friends for years who www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 140-143 Coming Home EditedBySue.indd 3
Cruising Outpost 141
7/26/18 11:19 AM
Coming Home...
suddenly lack two years of common experiences. It can be disjointed, and you need to work on getting new experiences together. Taking a moment to realize this discomfort is just a lack of these recent common experiences really helps to connect with the great people you missed while you were away. THE STORIES You are going to get two questions by everyone that wants to talk to you about your trip: Pirates/ Scariest Thing, and Favorite Part. It may be the 1000th time you get asked, but remember they are asking because they want to know and you were there. Enjoy the conversation, and here is a tip that really helps: have one quick answer for when there isn’t time to answer, and when there is, use a different story each time. You will have hundreds of favorites they don’t know, so just pick a new one each time. That way you get to share and relive different moments instead of rinse and repeating the same stories. This simple tip avoids the repetitive questions feeling like a pebble in your shoe. DEPRESSION It is real, and something we found many cruisers did not expect or talk about. Just knowing this should be expected helps manage the emotions of
142 Cruising Outpost
pg 140-143 Coming Home EditedBySue.indd 4
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/26/18 11:19 AM
Not Always An Easy Thing To Do!
returning. More than one wonderful boat of people we met came back from their adventure only to find their relationship so changed it ended in divorce. Coming back is a shock to the system. It is harder because returning should feel like coming home, but now everything doesn’t quite feel the same as when you left. You changed. Your life was surrounded by maintenance projects and what new adventure you were going to see next, not schedules, work, and calendared events. Barbecues and sundowners happened without planning with new people you just met. Not so when you come back. Knowing this adjustment is just that, an adjustment, makes recognizing frustrations easier. Friends have missed you; go see them when you miss your adventure so you can see what you missed while you were gone. Your spirit and smiles are what connected you before you left and during the trip, and now they will when you’re back. Reconnect with those positive people, and try viewing coming back as a new adventure by experiencing all you left behind with your new eyes. BE GRATEFUL We are grateful we went, and are glad we are back helping our girls through high school and all the adventures that brings. Yes, we want to go cruise again, but we can only live one adventure at a time.
www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 140-143 Coming Home EditedBySue.indd 5
The attitude of gratitude picked up by meeting so many warm souls across the oceans is a treasure. As soon as you feel crowded, depressed, disconnected, or crushed, remember some food you love but could not find, and some friend you missed. Go make that for dinner, inviting that friend that day, because you can now that you are back in the land of plenty, with a cell phone and a car…
It’s a text message in a bottle!
Cruising Outpost 143
7/26/18 11:19 AM
Tech Tips
from Capt’n Pauley’s Workshop There are a lot of little things that can make your boat easier to use and more enjoyable. Here are some tips from Paul Esterle, the author of Capt’n Pauley’s Workshop. More can be found at www.captnpauley.com.
Building a Panelized Overhead Much of the cabin top hardware is through-bolted, with the fasteners only accessible from the inside of the boat. Adding a panelized overhead allows access to those fasteners and provides a clean, modern look to the inside of the cabin top. The overhead is divided up into a series of panels. Artists foam board is excellent as it is stiff and doesn’t flop around. The patterns are transferred to MDO plywood and cut out. The interior of the panel is cut out, leaving a ring. The panels are then screwed and epoxied to the overhead. Teak strips are used to separate the panels. Thin plywood is then cut to fit inside the teak strips. The panels are covered with marine vinyl material. Industrial strength Velcro is then stapled to the back side of the covered panels and the edges of the overhead panel. The Velcro is more than strong enough to hold the covered panels in place.
Figure 1: Cross Section of Panelized Overhead
Figure 2: Section through Cabin Side & Top
144 Cruising Outpost
pg 144-145 Tech Tips EditedBySue .indd 2
WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
7/26/18 11:21 AM
Tech Tips from Capt’n Pauley’s Workshop
Figure 3: Making Foam Board Patterns for MOD Plywood Panels
Figure 5: Aligning Panels with Self-Tapping Screws
Figure 4: MDO Panels cut out, painted and ready to install
Figure 6: MDO Panels Epoxied and Screwed in Place
Figure 7: Installing Teak Trim Strips
www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 144-145 Tech Tips EditedBySue .indd 3
Cruising Outpost 145
7/26/18 11:22 AM
Zihuatanejo Sailfest The Most Rewarding Thing I Have Done As A Cruiser
By Terri Potts-Chattaway
Each fall, the migration begins and seasonal cruisers come back to Mexico, preparing to sail south. Some head to the Sea of Cortez, and others explore the west coast of Mexico, usually traveling between San Carlos and Zihuatanejo. Everyone looks forward to catching up with old friends and the excitement builds as we discuss our plans for the adventures that lie ahead. Recently, there has been a considerable amount of buzz around Zihuatanejo. We had heard a lot about the International Guitar Festival held each year in March, but not so much about Sailfest. Until this past year, that is. “Are you going to Zihua?” Our friends
146 Cruising Outpost
pg 146-151 Zihuatanejo Sailfest - EditedBySue.indd 2
asked us. “Zihuatanejo is so cool! You will love it.” Others chimed in with, “You have to go to Sailfest! It is the most rewarding thing I have done as a cruiser.” Sailfest is advertised as a week-long festival, held every February, raising funds for Por Los Niños, a non-profit organization that has supported the education of the leastadvantaged children of Zihuatanejo for over 17 years. Por Los Niños, along with the help of local and international communities, has a history of success in that they have not only built classrooms, they have built entire schools. Two years ago they built the first new high school, Colegio de Bachilleres, in
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/26/18 11:25 AM
www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 146-151 Zihuatanejo Sailfest - EditedBySue.indd 3
Cruising Outpost 147
7/26/18 11:25 AM
Zihuatanejo Sailfest
20 years with the intent to bring back children who had dropped out for one reason or another. The dropout rate in Mexico is high. Only 27% graduate from high school and out of that, only 11% go on to university. This year, 21 out of 34 students graduating from Colegio de Bachilleres are going on to university. That is six times higher than the national average. Sailfest offers a myriad of events, mostly surrounding the cruisers taking out guests on their boats for a few hours of sailing. The schedule also includes a chili cook-off, silent and live auctions, a benefit concert, and gala dinner. Two special sailing events are the Sail around the Rock, which is a cruisers’ race/rally, and the finale, The Sail Parade, starting in the bay of Zihuatanejo and ending at Ixtapa where we salute the Port Captain. The committees that work for Sailfest are a well-oiled machine and very professional. So much so, at the end of the event, the volunteers are provided with a complete accounting of all monies raised and spent. With all the hype around Zihuatanejo and Sailfest, my husband, Jay, and I decided to see for ourselves. We left Nuevo Vallarta and sailed the 363 nm south. Zihuatanejo Bay is quite large and in the shape of a horseshoe. The town of Zihuatanejo lies in the center. To the right of
148 Cruising Outpost
pg 146-151 Zihuatanejo Sailfest - EditedBySue.indd 4
the horseshoe are two popular beaches, Playa La Ropa and Playa Los Gatos. To the left are private homes and a few restaurants. Hills rise up behind the coastline surrounding the cove. We arrived in the bay on January 31st, just before sunset. It was a sultry evening and we were tired. We dropped anchor, had a glass of wine, and watched the sun go down. The hills began to glisten as the white lights twinkled from the houses perched on the cliffs. It was a beautiful sight. We found the merchants to be warm and welcoming, and they cater to the cruisers. Maybe this is because we boost their economy. Maybe it’s because they appreciate our efforts to help raise money for the education of their children. Maybe it’s both. Whatever the reason, they provide a much-needed service to those anchored in the bay. Ishmael – stationed just off the pier - can help with almost anything. He will deliver fuel, water, beer, even laundry to your boat. On shore, there are “dinghy valets,” four men who have made their living by working on the beach. For a minimum of ten pesos (each way), they will help pull your dinghy in and out of the water. They are there 24-7 and watch over the boats while we are in town. They are a fun bunch and we enjoyed getting to know them.
WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
7/31/18 6:38 PM
Zihuatanejo turned out to be more of a big city and less of a sleepy village than we expected. Yet, town Centro still retains the charm of a small fishing community, witnessed by the fishing co-op we passed daily when walking the Malecon. As is common in every Mexican town, the Malecon runs along the shore. What is different are the palm trees lining either side, creating a canopy of shade and an intimacy that adds to its allure. There is no town square either, with the requisite park in the center, and a church and civic buildings on either side. Instead, there are several diagonal streets designated only for pedestrians. The streets are narrow and the restaurateurs set up their tables outside where customers can enjoy dinner under the stars. This also adds to the intimacy and charm of the village. Zihuatanejo seems to draw great musicians too. Whether it is a salsa band playing on the beach, a guitar duo at dinner, or a jazz band at a night club, we found the music scene to be top notch. They are also civic-minded and welcomed the opportunity to volunteer for Sailfest. The morning after we arrived, we wandered over to the sales desk camped out on the Malecon (open every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and manned by volunteers).
WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM
pg 146-151 Zihuatanejo Sailfest - EditedBySue.indd 5
Since Sailfest wouldn’t officially start until February 5th and this was February 1st, we were surprised to find out that they had been selling sunset sails for two weeks prior to Sailfest, as well as the week of Sailfest, and would continue into the week after Sailfest. And not only sunset sails. You could offer your boat for any kind of sail you wanted to share, such as a wine and cheese cruise, or a day sail, or the ever-popular music cruises. This is where local musicians offered their talent. Tim and Donna Melville, the chairs of the cruising committee, organized three boats who were willing to raft up together. The middle boat would host the band. Tim and Donna had their hands full keeping up with the demand, but because of the generosity of the cruisers, the sailing contingent alone raised over $500,000 pesos. Jay and I volunteered our boat for several of the sunset cruises, the rally, and the parade. Tim explained that we could take as many people as we felt comfortable with or as few. Some people took six. Others took ten. The music cruise boats usually had at least twenty on board. We decided eight guests was a good number for us. We were a little nervous about taking strangers out on our boat. Would they get seasick? (No one on our boat did.) Would they have a difficult time boarding our boat out at anchor? (Yes, many did.) Had
Cruising Outpost 149
7/26/18 11:25 AM
1979 56’ Nautical Developments Corp - $159,500 Clark and SaraNell Jelley - 561.676.8445
2008 49’ Hunter - $250,000 Barbara Burke - 904.310.5110
2000 47’ Bavaria - $159,900 Mark Welsh - 410.645.0007
1980 44’ Cherubini - $159,500 David Robinson - 410.310.8855
1979 44’ Cheoy Lee - $56,000 Barbara Burke - 904.310.5110
1977 43’ Gulfstar - $67,900 David Raftery - 802.349.7200
1978 43’ Gulfstar - $48,000 Curtis Stokes - 954.684.0218
1971 43’ Morgan - $35,000 Brad Peterson - 305.481.1512
1979 42’ Pearson - $69,000 Ryan Daniels - 904.580.0559
1977 42’ Ta Chiao - $65,000 Clark and SaraNell Jelley - 561.676.8445
2001 42’ Catalina - $125,900 Greg Merritt - 813.294.9288
1978 41’ Morgan - $64,500 Clark and SaraNell Jelley - 561.676.8445
To see more details about these and all other yachts around the globe, please visit our website at
www.curtisstokes.net 172 Cruising Outpost
pg 172-173 Curtis Stokes.indd 2
www.cruisingoutpost.com
7/28/18 12:55 PM
Worldwide Yacht Sales Yacht Charters New Yacht Construction
1985 41’ C&C - $49,900 Greg Merritt - 813.294.9288
1999 40’ Beneteau - $92,900 Barbara Burke - 904.310.5110
1980 39’ CAL - $71,900 Bill Boos - 410.200.9295
1971 39’ Pearson - $19,500 Stewart Reeser - 410.924.8295
1983 39’ Corbin - $48,000 David Robinson - 410.310.8855
1989 38’ Sabre - $97,500 Ryan Daniels - 904.580.0559
2010 38’ Seawind - $384,000 Barbara Burke - 904.310.5110
1981 36’ Pearson - $24,900 Wayne Smith - 516.445.1932
2005 36’ Beneteau - $115,000 Brad Peterson - 305.481.1512
2003 35’ Catalina - $112,000 Tom Russell - 904.382.9610
2001 34’ Bavaria - $59,900 Mark Welsh - 410.645.0007
1997 32’ Beneteau - $54,999 Greg Merritt - 813.294.9288
1.855.266.5676 | 954.684.0218 | info@curtisstokes.net www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 172-173 Curtis Stokes.indd 3
Cruising Outpost 173
7/28/18 12:55 PM
pg 178-179 Moorings Broker.indd 2
7/28/18 11:38 AM
pg 178-179 Moorings Broker.indd 3
7/28/18 11:38 AM
The Bosun’s Bag Hard To Find “Stuff” For The Cruiser
CP18
EXTREME CUTTING NO RUST , EVER
Life-saving knives that won’t quit cutting! Check us out in Annapolis - booth YB19
boyeknives com + 800 853 1617
190 Cruising Outpost
pg 190-195 Bosun's Bag.indd 2
www.cruisingoutpost.com
8/3/18 9:28 AM
Say goodbye to mold, mildew & moisture! Two Models to choose from: Air Dryr 500 for spaces 500 cubic feet or smaller Air Dryr 1000 for spaces up to 1000 cubic feet
CUSTOM CATAMARAN JACKLINES
Both models feature silent operation with no fans or moving parts to let you down. Uses the same amount of electricity as a 100 watt light bulb… if you remember what that was! 110 volts.
FORE
#1458 Air Dryr 1000 $69.99 #1459 Air Dryr 500 $59.99
Patent Pending Design. Custom fabricated for your yacht. No lashings or knot tying required. Easy to install and remove.
Works equally well on monohulls and motoryachts! Made in the USA!
aft
MANU KEA, INC.
davisinstruments.com/marine
Jacksonville, FL info@manukea.com
www.manukea.com
The Video Story Behind Captain Bob:
Other People’s Paradise DVD The story of one man’s escape from civilization to the world of cruising.
Now on DVD Reg $29.95
Now just $19.95 www.bobbitchin.com www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 190-195 Bosun's Bag.indd 3
Cruising Outpost 191
8/3/18 9:29 AM
pg 196 Ad List Final.indd 1
8/4/18 9:58 AM
www.cruisingoutpost.com
pg 197 Mackie WhiteEditedBySue.indd 1
Cruising Outpost 197
7/24/18 3:45 PM