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The Pleasure of
Passage Making Cruising
An Unsalted Cruise
Landlubber to
Liveaboard How Life at Sea
Changed My Life
BOAT SPOTLIGHT Winter 2016-2017 - Issue #17
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ing! And we did it O N PURPO SE! Most o th e r boating magazin es h 65% adave over s. Person Responsible for This Bob Bitchin bob@cruisingoutpost.com
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This Issue’s Cover: Now this is cruising! This photo was sent in by M ark Johnson. It was taken on Whitehaven Beach, Whitsundays, Australia, of L aura Johnson cruising through the Whitsundays on the way to Cairns N ex t I ssue G oes O n S al e M arch 7, 2017 P rinted in the U SA
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Issue #17 Winter 2016-17
Contents
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Special Stuff in this Issue 12 20 52 62 82 90 116 122 126 177
“I’m almost always doing something, and when I’m not I should be.” - Glann Stewart
Desiree’s Great Lakes Adventure The Pleasures of Passage Making Hurricane Matthew There’s This Place - Milos, Greece How Life at Sea Changed My Life Landlubber to Liveaboard Hui Wharram Rendezvous The Cruising Outpost Staff Dinghy There’s This Place: Lake Ponchartrain Latitudes & Attitudes
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Regular Stuff in this Issue Attitudes Bob Bitchin Scuttlebutt Another Way Tania Aebi Missives from the Sea Trouble with Treb Rich Marker What’s Out There: Monohull - Grand Soliel LC46 What’s Out There: Multihull - Leopard 45 What’s Out There: Power Cruiser - Kadey-Krogen 58 Lifestyle Flotsam & Jetsam Life Aboard Robin Stout CO Events & News I Found It at the Boat Show Book Review Capt. Jim Cash Weather by Lee Talk of the Dock Zuzana Prochazka Tech Tips Captain Pauly Bosun’s Bag Mackie White Cruisians
8 26 46 48 51 56 58 60 70 96 112 132 139 160 162 164 166 168 175 178
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Desiree’s Adventure Two Old Friends Sail on Unsalted Waters By Jessica Zevalkink
0ne 55-Year-Old Classic Sailboat Two Young Ladies Who’s Ages Total 55!
K atie was on the bow. I was in the cockpit. We had not seen each other in q uite a while, so we didn’t waste time with small talk and preferred to catch up on what was i ortant A A the first word that o s into your head ga e. “Scorpion.” “Cotter pin.” “Gemstone.” “Earwax .” “P ancakes.” “Wood.” “U ncle u . aran wra . orea. Beyonce. ta le. his was a ty ical conversation. re e ered what it was like to be on a boat with K atie Ariel ith. ysterical. It had been q uite some time since she and had een on a oat together ut one would have assu ed no ti e had passed. We operated the boat in our own
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C aptain K atie and h er puppy D uppy , t el l ing stories about “ that one time...”
language which req uires very few words. We naturally fell into what we are and always have been most fond of - myself at the helm and K atie telling me where to go. Our time sailing the “Great L oop” in the past aboard our Cal 27 w as not rain ows and utter ies. ’ve ade strong pursuits to convey that via my previous word vomit. But this most recent trip a oard y ather’s the Wi ard oot classic yawl was different… n othing went wrong. Not even a stubbed tow. On edge day after day under the q uiet pressure of delivering the shi unhar ed throttled my mind-set in preparation for ultimate disaster, just in case. Because to my knowledge, nothing ever goes your way on the water. atie and sold our oat a ter co leting A erica’s reat oo and now occasionally steal the Wi ard’s Pearson nvicta. And y occasionally ean this was the very first ti e and
A ttempting to sail of f the mooring bal l in N orthport B ay
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am still shocked he allowed his youngest daughter to borrow his pride and joy. K atie, her puppy “D uppy” and myself have just spent a week sailing the Great L akes to M ichigan’s U pper P eninsula. It was freaking perfect. It actually was rain ows and utter ies. was sweating chocolate she was shitting glitter and D uppy was barking Adele. L iterally, nothing went wrong. ( Ex cept for that morning we pulled up the anchor and were drifting towards rocks and when I went to steer us towards deeper water, I had forgotten to put the steering wheel back on after taking it off the night e ore . Aside ro that a still ystified at the ease of our delivery and can’t shake the thought that I was undeserving of such a sunshiny week. I kept waiting for something to blow up. he nvicta was the first fi erglass hull to win the Rhode Island to Bermuda race in 19 64. There were only 21 of these hulls ever built. M y sister and I grew up as leisurely and obnox ious passengers on hull no. 8 . D esireé was purchased by the Wizard in his early 20s. Took him years as a diesel mechanic to pay off D esireé before he and his best bud “Hawk” took off down the M ississippi in 19 7 5 to travel “America’s Great L oop” … hence the reason K atie and I had the wild hair to repeat that trip. The rest of the Wizard’s cruising years were spent exp loring the Great L akes with friends, family, my mother, and eventually my sister and me. Over 20,000 miles logged, this boat is a brick shit-house. Now, at 27 y ears old, the Wizard trusted K atie and me, of all humans, to sail his boat on our own. M indoggling. was airly confident atie and I were capable of delivering D esireé from A to B unharmed with no broken bones. However, our exp erience felt similar
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The Pleasures of
A frigate bird wheels overhead as the hazy dawn light is mirrored back by the water. The sea is absolutely still, more like a lake than an ocean, blurring the horizon so that the sky bleeds into the water. Slowly, gently, a large, old leatherback turtle wakes up from his slumber on the surface of the sea and coax es his limbs out of their long sleep. He stirs sluggishly, sighing heavily as his legs wave about in the swell. “M orning,� I say to him cheerfully, and wave back as the sound of our engine and closeness of our boat startle him into more purposeful movements.
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PassageMaking B y Je ssica L l oy d- M osty n
Ahhh, the joys of being on the road again. Well, the watery road at any rate. Now, for those of you who aren’t aware, the passage north to M ex ico u the Pacific coast o Central A erica can e a it o a ga le as ar as wind is concerned. Generally, the current is eant to e in your avour u to the Gulf of Fonseca, which is where Nicaragua, Honduras and El alvador eet. But the wind can e a fickle istress
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The Pleasures of Passage Making
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plus there are certain zones where the ‘ gap winds’ can give you a pounding. We decided to take a route that goes q uite close to the shoreline, as you can take advantage of any little bit of land or sea breeze here, plus certain wind acceleration zones around capes and headlands can give you a push if the base level wind isn’t giving you uch. ur first assage would take us on al ost every point of sail as we made a big U southwest, then west, then northwest in order to get around the ‘ lump’ of P anama, where P unta M ala is. The nex t run was up the majority of the Costa Rican coast, from P uerto Jimenez to Bahia Samara, around 265 miles.
But, this is all simply just setting the scene. What I really want to talk about is the wildlife. The cons of an unpredictable wind are that you may well be becalmed, have to use your engine, or drift along so slowly that you make very little rogress. he definite ro o oving anywhere so slowly is that you are greeted by such a vast array
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M y lev el of maturity dep ends on who I’m with.
Scuttlebutt
All the news that fits
500,000+ Kids Join Race Around the World
November 6th was the start of the Vendee Globe, a nonstop single-handed race around the world that’s so tough it’s also known as the “Everest of the seas.” One of the entrants, 66-yearold Rich Wilson, a former math teacher, will be “accompanied” by over 500,000 students who will follow him online. His motivation to participate in the race was to engage and educate students around the world, and schools in 45 countries are participating in his educational program and tracking his progress. You can track him too at www.sitesalive.com.
Wanna Share the Sail?
It was 20 years ago that Bob and Jody started “Share the Sail,” a concept now known as Flotilla Chartering. Over 1,000 people sailed in places like Tahiti, the BVIs, Greece, New Zealand, Tonga and dozens of other great locations with us. Well, it looks like we will be starting to do these great events again. But first we need to know who wants to go where! Bob is opting for Tahiti, Jody kinda likes the BVIs, and there is always the Pacific Northwest in August during our Pacific Northwest Cruisers’ Weekend! So it’s up to you. If you’ve been thinking you might wanna join us on a Share the Sail, email bob@cruisingoutpost.com and let him know where you’d like to go! We will see if we can’t get this going again!
Nautical Trivia It’s highly unlikely that sufferers of ancraophobia will become sailors. Any guesses why? (Wanna cheat? The answer is on page 44
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so we were motoring along in a ripple-less sea when saw the first fins. o egin with we thought they were feeding as there was a clear circle of them within which they lea t and so ersaulted to their hearts’ content. et as we got closer not only was it clear that they were ust laying and ractising their acro atic skills ut we egan to reali e ust how any o the there were easily over a hundred in one great ig od. We saw huge ones and tiny a ies all inging the selves errily sideways i ing out o the water u ing twisting and s inning. With no other oats or hu ans in sight and a degree at hori on you cannot hel ut eel incredi ly hu led and rivileged to lay audience to such a sight o nature at its very est and ost oy ul. And it’s o ents like that which definitely take the sting out o urning a it o diesel to get where you’re going.
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Scuttlebutt T he N ew Y ork er L ik es to Sail!
The National Sailing Hall of Fame is pleased to announce it has an ex hibition showcasing the “Sailing Covers from the New Yorker M agazine� dating back to the 1930s . The exhi bition is online at www.nshof.org. America was shaped by ex plorers who raced to get here, men-of-war ships that raced to defend her, clipper ships that raced to move their products to port, and watermen who raced to get their catch to market. Sailing has been inex tricably linked to the American ex perience. The New Yorker Sailing Covers ex hibition is a re ection o that rich history. The National Sailing Hall of Fame would like to thank Chuck Townsend and Becky M ickel for arranging this ex hibition.
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Scuttlebutt
N ew p ort D id G ood!
The Newport Boat Show is one of the largest in-water boat shows in the country. This year’s event brought over 600 ex hibitors from around the world, with an ex ceptional assortment of boats of every type and style, from 15 to 9 0 feet. It also featured a wide variety of accessories, eq uipment, electronics, gear and services for boaters.
C O
D af f y nitions
“Crew”- Heavy, stationary objects used on shipboard to hold down charts, anchor cushions in place, and dampen sudden movements of the boom.
P iracy D rop s, b ut C rew Kidnap p ing P ersists
P iracy activity in the third q uarter of 2016 declined compared to the previous q uarter. Southeast Asia and the East Africa and Indian Ocean saw drops in reported piracy incidents. West Africa, notably, ex perienced a drop in severe incidents such as attacks and hijackings.
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L i fe s t y l e A Look at Why We Do What we Do
E v er wonde red why peopl e l ov e the boating l if esty l e? Wel l , here in the L if esty l e section f ol ks f rom al l ov er the worl d giv e an insight into what it’ s real l y l ike out there. I f y ou hav e a photo y ou think tel l s a good tal e, why not send it to us? We pref er y ou send a di gital pic, in as high resol ution as y ou can. Tel l us who took the pic and where it was take n. We wil l probaby throw it into our “di gital pil e” and pul l it out someday . We won’ t send y ou any money , but y ou wil l be f amous worl dw ide ! E mail to: L if esty l e@C ruisingoutpost.com.
B y M ike S tinson, B arra de N av idad
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B y M ark H anna of S am & A l ex hanging around in L a P az , by D ad
G ary , sail ing through the P hil ippines
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Je ssica Wal l ace, S arasota, F L
L os F rail es, 30 mil es north of S an oJ s e de l C abo, M exi co. This picture was take n by D ebbie.
B y S am S teel e, R esurrection B ay , Thumb C ov e, S / V Radiance and S / V C reola
H arv est M oon R egatta
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How A Life At Sea Changed Me by M onica R ae
As Trent and I approach our one year anniversary of living a life at sea, I can’t help but think a out how uch ’ve changed. Peo le ask all the ti e and it’s di ficult to ut y finger on any one thing in articular es ecially since it’s een so gradual in nature. I ran across this q uote in my travel log book which sparked something in me to try and nail it down. M ary Ann Radmache said, “I am not the same having seen the moon shine on the other side of the world.” She’s right you know. Everything is different; I am not the same. We decided to leave the rat race, sell everything we owned and moved onto a Fast P assage 3 9 ’ sailboat that we christened P ep p er er.. Our adventurous spirits have led us to believe that we can travel the world in our 3 0s. Trent took a simple sailing class over the course of two weekends and I had not an ounce of ex perience, but it sounded like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Call me crazy, plenty of people did, but I “adopted” his lifelong dream. We went from zero to cruising in a matter of four months. That time was spent as toiling liveaboards in M obile, Alabama, getting P ep p er ready for our life a sea. We did everything ourselves trying to learn the ins and outs o our new tiny oating ho e ro sewing new cushions right down to the otto o . Now here I sit on P ep p er almost eight months later in the British Virgin Islands, plotting an overnight passage to Saint M artin. I thought I had everything I ever wanted back home in Tex as. I owned my own home and vehicle, had the very best big, sloppy, golden dog a girl could ever ask for, a career, was a Chamber Ambassador and involved in a multitude
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How A Life At Sea Changed Me
of community organizations, had a agnificent oy riend that ew his own helico ter or a living and was also lessed to have incredi le riends and lenty o a ily around the corner. worked everishly to ay o y student loans ust two years a ter graduation and esides the ortgage and re aining car loan was de t ree. hat eing said no un intended it was ust ti e to rock the oat. was a solutely stuck in a rut and thought to ysel t’s now or never onica. on deciding to ursue this grand endeavor started to sell o y elongings. think every girl’s worst night are is to throw everything she owns out in the ront yard with a garage sale sign on it. ooking ack don’t know why didn’t ust o en u y house to these eager eaver thri ty strangers. t all had to go house included so why did kee the out
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o ake a long story short it ended u eing a terri ly rainy wet weekend and the car ort only artially rotected over years o y ac uired recious elongings. thought was going to ake thousands o dollars and have a good nest egg or y new li e on the water. eality sunk in. hese things that you work so hard to ac uire and s end so uch ti e researching and antici ate urchasing actually owned e. t took onths to sell it all o . owards the end got so sick o eo le trying to ake these ridiculous low all o ers and had etter things to do such as learn to sail that du ed the re ainder o it o at the non rofit thri t stores and took a ta deduction. ost girls would ro a ly cringe at the site o y now inch closet and iniscule wardro e i you can even call it that. he ti e s end on
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grooming has also diminished from an hour to about 10 minutes. I have better things to do! Since I’m not drained from working at the hospital anymore, I work a lot on the boat by organizing, cleaning or making improvements. There’s no room for clutter on a 3 9 ’ boat so it takes a lot to keep her shipshape. I’d go so far as to say that I am also much more mechanically inclined since becoming a liveaboard. Just the other day, when I was up for a new challenge, I swapped out a block on the traveler. I admit to asking Trent what these things were called for the sake of writing about them, but I’m learning lots of new tricks and lingo! In the spirit of “winging it” ( which has been this entire year) , and learning as I go, I wanted to learn about navigating so I took the
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helm when in the Virgins. I thought I’d start easy! As a pilot, navigating comes naturally for Trent, but I successfully got us through the Virgin Islands and went even further with my new role by checking us into Customs and Immigration as the Captain of the vessel. I used to be a workout fanatic and Crossfit was y most recent craze. I couldn’t get enough of it! Not being in a routine or near a gym is something I loathe, but eventually got over. Sometimes I have to get inventive with workouts and not count on sailing to keep me in shape, because we aren’t on the move daily and sometimes not even weekly. Here’s a perfect ex ample of what happened yesterday, while at Anegada, that I counted as a workout. After an hour and a half of snorkeling against the current for ex ercise and entertainment, our dinghy broke
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Landlubber to Liveaboard:
From Whim to Living the Dream Before purchasing Solstic e, I had never owned a boat. In fact, most of my sailing ex perience was taking Hobie Cats out off the sandy beach as a teenager. I had only boarded a bigger sailing vessel a few times. Never once operated a power boat, not even a dinghy. Why did I want to take the plunge and not only buy a sailboat but one that was capable of crossing an ocean? And live on her? First of all, I am not a stuff collector. I know plenty of people that are in love with their material possessions, and I don’t fault them for that. It’s just not
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me. Secondly, I like to tinker with things. I was well advised by several friends that I would have plenty of tinkering time with a boat! Finally, my somewhat limited sailing ex perience taught me this jewel: It’s peaceful to be out on the water with no stink pot engine running. You can hear the wind and the waves crashing against the sails and the hull, like a feather blowing on the breath of God. Or maybe Freddie M ercury chiming in with, “any way the wind blows.” Okay, you get the picture. Just call the whole idea a whim.
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A man has reac hed old age when he is c autioned to slow down by his doc tor instead of by the p olic e.
B y C hris V onada
A man has reac hed old age when he is c autioned to slow down by his doc tor instead of by the p olic e.
A year before I bought Solstic e I started to look at options for my living arrangement. I never owned a boat before September 11, 2015 ( an easy date to remember) . When I considered my opportunities it came down to throwing money away on an apartment, or living on a sailboat. To go the sailboat route I had to face the additional consideration o financing as didn’t have a lot in savings. raditional financing ut o the uestion in y rice range as would have to find an older oat and lenders balk at funding boats more than 20 years old. So took the owner financed angle. would ake it clear with sellers that met my search criteria that I needed their financing. did so early on in the rocess so as not to waste anyone’s ti e.
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,,
Flotsam & Jetsam
Bermuda Adventure By Ed Anderson
M y buddy has a Hylas 56 and asked me if I wanted to crew on his boat for the 2016 Newport to Bermuda Race. was all in. o o to New ort y eeting u with the rest o the crew to start re aring the oat or the race.
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As the start date approached the weather forecasts egan to deteriorate with redictions o to knots o breeze from the northeast and 15- to 20-foot seas in the ul tea along with a ossi le low that could eco e
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a tropical depression. After a few days of meetings with the weather gurus and no changes in the predictions, we decided not to do the race and instead to take a cruise. ur first sto was Cuttyhunk on the li a eth slands. ur second sto was Nantucket then Block sland and finally ystic C . Not wanting to iss a good sailors arty we le t the ylas in ystic and gra ed ights to Ber uda. his is when ound out that walking around Ber uda made the challenges of trying to cross the Gulf with 15- to oot seas see like a cake walk. he ollowing is the adventure y wi e vonne and had on the eauti ul island of Bermuda renting a Scooter. vonne and woke u on our first day in Ber uda at a out a. . which is way weird since we never get u e ore the dew has dried. We had a ew ite s on the o o L ist. First, get a Scooter so we could ex plore the island. Y u ed in the shower and u ed on the internet to find a near y scooter rental. ound a lace called leander Cycles and gave the a call. es they had scooters availa le. did a uick a uest and ound out that leander Cycles was . kilo eters away. Not eing u on the etric syste did another uick oogle search and ound that it was . iles away. a thinking ca . vonne walked out o the shower and told her that leander was . iles away. hould we take a ca or walk he o course said let’s walk. should have said . k since it sounds arther and she would have gone or the ca which would have saved us a lot o hassle ut we would have issed a good eal as you will find out . hings started o well. We walked down the sidewalk ad iring og Bay Park and the eauti ul ho es along the
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16th Annual Pacific NorthWest Cruisers’ Weekend Event
It all started when 13 people sailed into Sucia Island 16 years ago for a L atitudes & Attitudes Cruisers’ P arty. From there, it moved every year. Cornet Bay, Oak Harbor, P oulsbo, and Anacortes are just a few of the ports that have hosted the L atitudes & Attitudes/ Cruising Outpost Cruisers’ Weekend parties. Somewhere along the line it turned into a pirate fest, and the pirate gathering became status q uo.
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This year was the second time the town of P ort Townsend, Washington, was host to this event. About 60 boats and 500-600 people sailed, drove and/ or f lew in for this, the 16th annual gathering of the Brethren of the Sound. The Brethren of the Sound was formed about 15 years ago to help organize this great event.
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As it has every year, the weekend starts on Friday when folks sail in from all over the P uget Sound area to join in the fun and games. The gatherings are always child-friendly, and this year was no ex ception. Early on Saturday there was a pinata loaded with candies for the kids, and for the more adventuresome there was the blindfolded dinghy race. This is always a favorite with the cruisers, as the person rowing is blindfolded and their navigator has to shout directions to them. Of course, the shouts from the docks can be distracting! Cruising Outpost set up a small area in the marina roo or olks to gather and as it turns out we have finally
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found the secret to keeping boaters happy... free beer! We had three full kegs on tap at all times from the local craft brewery, “D irty Bucket Brewing Company.” D ave Calhoun handled the entertainment again this year, Friday afternoon and during the day Saturday, with his very popular “Trop-Rock.” He has been playing at this event for years and is a member of the Brethren of the Sound, as well as an active cruiser. Saturday night it all came together at the American L egion Hall a block from the marina. It was a perfect location for the party, and on stage we had the D ana Osborn Band once again keeping people on their feet,
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_pg 175 Mackie White.indd 1
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