C&TH Great British & Irish Hotels 2026/2027

CONTENTS

Author

Directory

60 COUNTRY HOUSE STAYS

Renowned the world over, no one does country house hotels like the Brits. Plus, if you want to travel the world without leaving the UK, Skylar Pinchal’s Global Britain (p62) pinpoints the historic houses where you can nd a taste of everywhere from India to Italy

86 CITY & TOWN STAYS

City breaks can be seriously seductive. Find out, too, why Manchester is having its moment in Tessa Dunthorne ’s We Do Things Di erently Here (p88)

112 SMALL COUNTRY STAYS

Rural retreats with under 30 rooms are thriving. And discover how agriturismo is reaching the UK in Charlie Colville ’s Days (& Nights) on the Farm (p114)

132 COASTAL STAYS

Oh we do like to be beside the seaside, so nd your next weekend away. In Fish Suppers (p134), Francesca Syz chooses her favourite places for a stonking seafood feast

144 PUBS & INNS

The Brits are obsessed with their pubs and for good reason. Plus, Fiona Duncan meets the new wave of pioneers future-proo ng our boozers in The New Publicans (p146)

162 WILD & REMOTE

Get o grid, throw away your phone and commune with nature at these far- ung places. Plus, Olivia Emily brings you The Cool Girl’s Guide to Birdwatching (p164) – twitching has never been so in vogue

176 PRIVATE HOUSES

Sometimes, you just want to be alone and that’s ne by us. Evie Calver also charts the trend fuelling our appetite for the unique in Privacy Loves Company (p178)

188 WEDDING VENUES

Getting hitched? Find the venue of your dreams

Indicates hotels where sustainability is an important part of the o ering

Hotel rates are based on staying in a double room for one night, unless otherwise stated

EDITOR’S LETTER

Welcome to the latest edition of Great British & Irish Hotels, relaunched in a glittering new guise this year. It’s not just a directory of our favourite places to stay, but a glorious celebration of British hospitality and of our beloved Britain itself.

The two are symbiotic. Since rst discovering and writing about hotels, inns, guesthouses, restaurants with rooms and private rentals across our kingdom more than 40 years ago, I have loved them – adored the best of them. Not just for the warmth, kindness and cradles of good living that they o er but for the way they re ect our nation’s best characteristics, as well its landscapes. We don’t go in for isolated, disconnected bubbles of luxury here; we go in for character, quirkiness, fun, friendliness and earthy connection in places that are o en centres of their communities.

And that is exactly what you will nd in these pages. Think the dirty weekend is dead? Not a bit of it, explains the Erotic Review ’s erstwhile editor Rowan Pelling, who provides some top pointers for the romantically inclined (p30). Think birdwatching is just for men of a certain type (you know who I mean)? No, it’s now a cool girl tribe who are picking up the binos (p164). Love the Cotswolds but put o by hype and the tra c? Why not try the lesser travelled Notswolds, o ering the same kind of bucolic idyll without the Chelsea tractors (p48).

And that is just a hint of what’s inside. We’ve also got our favourite wellness destinations (p32), a focus on Britain’s buzziest city Manchester (p88) and a calendar of wonderful things to do this year (p10). Dive into the pages: you’ll nd something to make you smile, to inspire you, to provoke nostalgia... Our isles have it all – go forth and explore.

And make a special e ort to visit those places who put custodianship of people and place at the centre of what they do: check out the winner and highly commended hotels in the C&TH x Polestar Sustainable Hotel of the Year Awards. Happy travels.

CONTRIBUTORS

Rowan Pelling

Rowan Pelling is editor of Perspective, a columnist for The Telegraph and former editor of The Erotic Review.

What are the essentials of a good hotel? A good hotel should be like a good lover: it should make you feel caressed and totally understood.

One UK travel tip? Visit the beautiful villages of Kingsand and Cawsand in Cornwall. They’re far enough south that you don’t get the weekend crowd.

British hotel you would spend your last night in? Aldeburgh’s gloriously oldfashioned Wentworth Hotel. That stretch of coast has delighted me since I was ten.

Skylar Pinchal

Skylar Pinchal is an interiors writer who specialises in historic interiors and global arts.

What are the essentials of a good hotel? All my favourite hotels were once houses in their previous lives, so that’s pretty much a requirement (or at least a major preference) when booking.

One UK travel tip? Always pack boots! Cowboy, wellies, whatever.

British hotel you would spend your last night in? Although I prefer a cosy country inn, if it’s my last night I think I’d need to be well-dressed, drinking the best wine under the gilded ceilings at The Ritz.

Simon Kurs

Award-winning writer and editor Simon Kurs has launched more than a dozen travel and lifestyle magazines.

What are the essentials of a good hotel?

Plush bedding, a hot rainfall shower and reliable, fast wi .

One UK travel tip? Fight the summertime urge to visit any of UK’s better-known beaches. Consider instead heading inland to the Norfolk Broads or coastal areas like Deal in Kent.

British hotel you would spend your last night in? My dog Milo is a big fan of Rosewood London, arguably the most pooch-friendly ve-star in town.

Clover Stroud

Amid moving between the US and Oxfordshire and mothering ve children, author Clover Stroud writes about the way life feels on her Substack.

What are the essentials of a good hotel? Really good tea in your room, excellent pillows, a deep bath.

One UK travel tip? Don’t go anywhere recommended by Instagram; I’d always prefer to go somewhere obscure than another glossy hotel.

Graeme Green

Graeme Green is a journalist and photographer for publications including The Guardian and The Times’ Luxx

What are the essentials of a good hotel? An instant feeling of relaxing and knowing that you’re in good hands. British hotel you would spend your last night in? Wildhive Callow Hall. My family’s always had a good time there and I really like the feeling of being in the treehouses, tucked away in the woods.

GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

Fiona Duncan Editor

Editorial Director Lucy Cleland

Deputy Editor Lucinda Baring

Editor-At-Large Alice B-B

Associate Editor Charlotte Metcalf

Junior Sub Editor & Production Assistant Evie Calver

Fashion Director Nicole Smallwood

Beauty Director Nathalie Eleni

Interiors Director Carole Annett

Culture Editor Ed Vaizey

Travel editor-at-large Kerry Smith

Wellness Editor Camilla Hewitt

Executive Retail Editor Juliet Herd

Men’s Style Editor Shane C. Kurup

Food & Drink Editor / Features Writer Tessa Dunthorne

Sustainability Editor Lisa Grainger

Property Editor Anna Tyzack

Motoring Editor Jeremy Taylor

Digital Director Rebecca Cox

Digital Editor Ellie Smith

Digital Culture Editor Olivia Emily

Digital Style Editor Charlie Colville

Digital Assistant Isabel Dempsey

Social Media Manager Mckenzie Mullany

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Design & Production Manager Mia Biagioni

The Editor editorial@countryandtownhouse.co.uk Advertising advertising@countryandtownhouse.co.uk

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What to do with Great British & Irish Hotels when you’ve nished reading it Ideally, we’d love you to keep it, but if not do pass it on to a friend or a community place which might enjoy it (doctor or dentist surgery, community centre). However, you can also rest assured that your issue (including cover) can be disposed of in your paper waste recycling bin.

20

Great Things

TO DO IN THE

UK

With summer just around the corner, it’s time to sort your 2026 diary, says Graeme Green

SPLASH IN A NEW EAST LONDON LIDO

A new freshwater lido is set to make a splash in Canary Wharf this summer. Created by the team behind Sea Lanes Brighton, the new Olympic-sized, six-lane swimming pool is expected to open in June and will oat on the Wharf’s Eden Dock. It will be open year-round, complete with tness classes, lifeguards, a community clubhouse, food and drink, a wetsuit concierge, and outdoor saunas powered by renewable energy. sealanescanarywharf.co.uk

SLEEP IN THE TREES

Cotswolds hotel Calcot & Spa is opening two woodland-inspired, design-led treehouses. Bookable from June onwards, The Hides are tucked away within 220 acres of rewilded meadowland on the estate. Each of the elevated timber retreats – built by Blue Forest, with interiors designed by Cathy Birtles – have two bedrooms, elegant bathrooms, a cosy living area, a private sauna on the outside decking, and sweeping views of the Cotswolds. calcot.co

EAT WILD IN THE INNER HEBRIDES

Chef William Rhys Hamer, of The Wilder Kitchen, is hosting an open- re culinary retreat on the Isle of Luing in the Inner Hebrides this summer. The ve-day Wild Island Experience (8-12 June) will immerse guests in open- re cooking, seasonal eating and remote island life, and deep dive into Luing’s farming heritage, wild swimming, hiking, and shing. You’ll stay in one of WildLuing’s eight luxury cabins overlooking Torsa Bay. thewilderkitchen.co.uk

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OFF-ROAD THRILLS AT EASTNOR CASTLE

For years, Land Rover has been testing vehicles in the 5,000-acre grounds of Eastnor Castle (as seen in the HBO series Succession) in Herefordshire. Now, families can also test their mettle. New Range Rover, Defender and Discovery experiences o er a chance to learn o -road driving skills with expert assistance, conquering rocky tracks, grassy slopes and water challenges – perfect for rst-timers or seasoned adventurers. landrover.co.uk/experiences

MAKE A MICHELIN MORNING OF IT

London’s rst ever Michelin-starred breakfast tasting menu is available at Pavyllon London in the Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane. Created by executive chef Benjamin Ferra Y Castell under the guidance of Yannick Alléno (whose global restaurants hold 17 Michelin stars), the vecourse gastronomic experience is served every weekend, with choices including tiramisu pancakes and French toast. pavyllonlondon.com

GRAND SLAM GASTRONOMY

Wimbledon champion Andy Murray and his wife Kim’s ve-star country house hotel in Stirlingshire – Cromlix – is opening two new restaurants and a wellness retreat. Both restaurants will serve modern Scottish cuisine, with The Garden Room occupying a new glass-fronted building and the more intimate, ne-dining Cradle serving an ever-evolving tasting menu. The new Wellness Cottage will have a curated menu of treatments. cromlix.com

TASTE SOMERSET’S OLDEST VINEYARD

One of Somerset’s oldest vineyards, Wraxall Vineyard, has an exclusive, new experience for wine lovers. A er a private guided tour, groups of eight to 20 can enjoy tastings and a Somerset grazing table (a lunch of local cheese and charcuterie, salads, chutneys and breads) in The Nook, a canvas tent on a roo op terrace. Travellers can also stay over in one of the two new shepherd’s huts, which have commanding views over the Somerset Levels. wraxallvineyard.co.uk

STARGAZE IN THE NORTH YORK MOORS

Stargazers should head to the North York Moors National Park, an International Dark Sky Reserve, where a new observatory has just opened. Set within the riverside surroundings of Danby Lodge National Park Centre, the Dark Skies Station has a retractable roof and a state-of-the-art telescope. The observatory will host stargazing events, talks and workshops throughout the year. northyorkmoors.org.uk

HANG OUT WITH HENRY MOORE AT KEW

The largest-ever outdoor presentation of Henry Moore’s art will be unveiled at Kew Gardens in London on 9 May. Running until 27 September, Henry Moore: Monumental Nature sees 30 of the acclaimed English artist’s monumental sculptures – including Reclining Woman: Elbow and Locking Piece – displayed across the 320-acre UNESCO World Heritage Site and inside the Victorian glasshouse, Temperate House. kew.org

ARE YOU A TRAITOR OR A FAITHFUL?

Anyone obsessed with the BBC’s hit series will likely leap at the opportunity to immerse themselves in Pelorus Travel’s bespoke, three-night, Traitors -inspired adventure in the Scottish Highlands. Guests will step inside a real-world game of trust and deception, arriving in a eet of iconic Land Rover Defenders and taking part in daily challenges, mystery-driven tasks, and candle-lit dinner parties before a revealing round-table nale. pelorustravel.com

PARTY AT BLENHEIM PALACE

A brand new, open-air music festival is taking place in Oxfordshire this summer (27 June-4 July) in the grounds of Blenheim Palace. Headliners will include Katy Perry, Michael Bublé, Alanis Morissette, Neil Young and The Chrome Hearts, and Pete Tong Ibiza Classics. Special packages are available, including The Grand Banquet, a ne dining experience with front-of-stage seating. blenheimpalacefestival.com

MAKE MICHELINSTARRED TRACKS IN THE HIGHLANDS

Belmond’s luxury train, Royal Scotsman, will be completing new Scottish culinary journeys this summer. A Taste of Scotland with Tom Kitchin has two nights aboard (17-19 June), travelling from Edinburgh to Dundee and back, while the four-night Epicurean Highland Adventure (29 June-3 July) includes a dinner by Michelin-starred Glasgow chef and Great British Menu judge Lorna McNee. belmond.com

SAUNA ON THE SHINGLE

The UK’s largest wild beach spa has opened at Folkestone Harbour Arm on England’s south-east coast. Set directly on the shingle with views across the English Channel, Sea Scrub Folkestone features wood- red saunas, cold plunge pools, a hot tub with a Jacuzzi, indoor changing rooms, and a traditional bucket shower – all with direct access to wild swimming in the Channel. seascrubsauna.co.uk

WALK WITH WINNIE THE POOH

Ashdown Forest in East Sussex is celebrating 100 years since the publication of AA Milne’s rst collection of Winnie the Pooh stories. Milne’s tales transformed the forest into the magical Hundred Acre Wood. This summer, The Big One Hundred is a series of free cultural events which invites visitors to explore the forest and meet its newest inhabitant, The Curious Adventurer, brought to life by 10 puppeteers. thebigonehundred.co.uk

GARDEN PARTY WITH THE PIGS

The folks at The Pig are gearing up to host Smoked & Uncut garden parties at their hotels this summer. Taking place at The Pig in the New Forest (12-14 June), The Pig at Combe, Devon (10-11 July) and The Pig at Bridge Place, Kent (7-9 August), they promise all-day garden party vibes with bands and DJs, pop-up spa treatments, night-time repits, buzzing bars and more music – all set in glorious country gardens. thepighotel.com

SIP AND STAY IN COUNTY ANTRIM

Known as Ireland’s rst whiskey hotel, the recently refurbished Harbourview Hotel in County Antrim is hosting a week of special events for its rst ever Carnlough Whiskey Festival (16-23 August). As well as a chance to sample spirits from local distilleries, the hotel – located in the coastal village of Carnlough – will also present live music, cask sampling, and a whiskey cruise along the rugged Antrim Coast in a converted lifeboat. theharbourviewhotel.com

DIVE DEEP OFF PEMBROKESHIRE

Fancy meeting a pu n or a seal in the wild? Celtic Deep is launching new Expedition Deep adventures on South Wales’ Pembrokeshire coast. Led by experienced marine biologists, the ve-day snorkelling and freediving trips run from May to September and combine hands-on wildlife encounters with research and conservation work. Seasonal highlights include pu ns and other seabirds, seals, blue sharks, whales and ocean sun sh. celticdeep.org

GET LOST AT GUILDENACRE

A new adventure playground is opening this summer at Helmingham Estate in Su olk. Secluded within a four-acre woodland in the grounds of Helmingham Hall, Guildenacre has four animal-themed areas – from tunnels, burrows and lookout spots at Flint’s Hollow (home to Flint the Badger) to Elderglade (the domain of Atlas the Stag), where children can enjoy climbing walls, tunnels, ladders, multi-level walkways, bridges and slides. guildenacre.co.uk

MOOR MICHELIN STARS

Acclaimed chef patron Mark Birchall has launched an exclusive, 12-seat private dining experience at his three-Michelinstarred Moor Hall Restaurant with Rooms in Aughton, Lancashire. Atelier Hearth o ers three, four and ve-course tasting menus featuring dishes such as monk sh cooked in brown butter and honey-roast Sladesdown duck, paired with rare single malts from The Macallan Red Collection. moorhall.com

CYCLE (SLOWLY) THROUGH HEREFORDSHIRE

Cycling holiday specialist The Slow Cyclist has launched its rst ever UK journey. The Herefordshire Heritage Trail is a fournight e-bike adventure taking in rolling hills, river valleys, the scenic Gospel Pass, Neolithic ruins, and black and white villages of timber-framed cottages (as seen earlier this year in the lm Hamnet). Along the way, riders stay in characterful accommodation. theslowcyclist.com ■

Open Doors

Olivia Emily spotlights the UK’s most exciting new hotel openings in country and town

Wildhive Eshott Hall, Northumberland

Wildhive’s rst property made an instant splash when it opened in Derbyshire in 2021 – and now to an Italianate manor for the brand’s second venture. We’re told to expect nature-focused interiors by Matt Hulme, with 14 bedrooms in the main house, six in the converted stables and ten cosy cabins. Opens this summer. wildhive.uk

Waldorf Astoria Admiralty Arch, London

One of London’s famed landmarks is being transformed into Britain’s rst Waldorf Astoria: Admiralty Arch, standing proudly at the end of The Mall, exactly opposite Buckingham Palace. At its rear, nd Trafalgar Square, The National Gallery and a gateway to Soho. There will be two restaurants to enjoy: Coreus by Clare Smyth and Café Boulud by Daniel Boulud. Opens this summer. hilton.com

KABN, Cairngorms

A er debuting on the shores of Loch Fyne, o -grid retreat KABN is bringing its Japandi cabins to Scotland’s most breathtaking landscape: the Cairngorms. While you’ll only discover its exact location on arrival, expect views of Highland peaks and ancient forests, curated scents, rain showers and furniture sculpted by Scottish artisans from fallen oak trees. Opens September. kabncompany.com

St Clement, London

Nick Jones may have stepped back from Soho House, but he can’t keep his hands o hospitality, most recently the multipurpose Corner Shop 180. And it’s this pocket of Temple in London that Jones will be frequenting even more when St Clement opens this year, comprising 90 bedrooms, a roo op restaurant and a state-of-the-art gym. Opening month tbc. stclement.co.uk

The Kithmore, St Andrews

A new resident is arriving in seaside chic St Andrews this summer. Drawing on Scots word ‘kith’, meaning friendship, familiarity and a sense of home, this 44bed home-from-home takes over three townhouses on Playfair Terrace and is all about doing the basics brilliantly. Opens June 2026. thekithmore.com

The Grace, Westport

What do 16th-century pirate queen Gráinne Ní Mháille (Grace O’Malley) and 20th-century screen star and Monaco princess Grace Kelly have in common? Bold yet elegant, they’re both inspirations underpinning The Grace, a just-opened 129-room property nestled on a 430-acre County Mayo estate right on the Wild Atlantic Way. thegrace.ie

The Gallivant Littlestone Beach, Kent

Since it opened in 2010, California beach-style The Gallivant has come to rede ne East Sussex’s huge sand dune beach Camber Sands. Now it’s branching out just down the road to a 1920s Kent property for its muchawaited second outpost: an adults-only, Hamptons-style 13-key property occupying an acre of sand dune right on the shoreline. Opens this summer. thegallivant.co.uk

Fairmont Cheshire The Mere

From Windsor Park and The Savoy to St Andrews and Bedfordshire, Canadian luxury hotel brand Fairmont is gradually making its mark on Britain. And now Cheshire: Fairmont is redeveloping The Mere, a historic 157-acre resort near Knutsford which dates back to The Domesday Book and boasts a honeypot championship 18-hole golf course. Opens this summer. fairmont.com

Six Senses, London

Six Senses’ very rst UK hotel has been highly anticipated. Part of the landmark Whiteley development, London joins Rome and Kyoto as city outposts for a brand renowned for its sprawling wellness resorts. Boasting 109 exquisitely designed bedrooms and suites, the subterranean spa is the main event, inspired by London’s iconic underground stations. sixsenses.com

Soho House, Manchester

Soho House has conquered New York, LA, most European capitals and the British countryside, and now it’s time for an intimidating frontier: the North. Soho House Manchester has taken over the former Granada Studios. Inside, nd spaces to work, relax and dine all topped by a roo op pool and doused in the brand’s signature mid-century aesthetic. sohohouse.com

Teffont House, Wiltshire

The Beckford Group knows how to do upmarket pubswith-rooms, and we expect the brand’s rst dedicated hotel to live up to their cossetting standards. Just 17 Natasha Hidvegi-designed rooms will be joined by a newly designed Orangery, plus a croquet lawn, apple orchard, BBQ area, sauna and wild plunge pool. Opens this summer. te onthouse.com

Cambridge House Auberge, London

Another global brand arriving in the capital is Auberge, which is reinventing Mayfair’s Palladian In and Out Military Club into Cambridge House. With 102-rooms designed by Jean-Louis Deniot, the property is set to be a truly luxurious London hotel, set within a historic home, to boot. Opens this summer. auberge.com ■

C&THxPOLESTAR Sustai

Green Stars

We reveal the hotels leading the way when it comes to responsible hospitality

Last year, we opened this awards feature by saying sustainability had never been more urgent –or more politicised. Well, guess what, nothing’s changed other than that urgency has only increased (and then some). Getting energy self-su cient on renewables would seem mission critical. And supporting local food suppliers, employing local people, regenerating our landscapes and being a place that is embedded in its locale are the values by which we can do good in this world. This is why these awards matter.

Hotels and places to stay are where we gather, experience, share, learn, relax, be spoilt. They play a pivotal part in what it is to enjoy a good life, whether that’s through the food, the gardens, the wellness, the activities or just being somewhere that is cosseting. Those who are going further and faster when it comes to bringing that same care to the land they occupy, the environment they share and the people they employ are honoured in these awards.

This year, we changed our categories to re ect the relaunch of our beautiful hotel guide (we hope you love it), so you’ll nd outstanding responsible hotels in all locations – town to country, coast to the wilds, pub to private rental.

As ever, there are barriers to perfection. Old buildings can’t always be as accessible as they would like; city locations mean food sourcing may not be as local as their rural cousins; independently owned hotels don’t always have the larger corporate purses that allow for certi cations; remotely located places can’t always attract a local workforce. We understand this. We also introduced two new awards: one for long-term commitment and another for a new star on the scene. Among all the winners and highly commended places below, there is without doubt a clear plan in place, accountability, progress tracking, innovation, passion and commitment. They are doing the work, where others can and should follow.

We’re proud to partner once more with Polestar, the design-led EV marque that is as committed as we are to purposeful innovation. The company has set ambitious targets for climate neutrality and circularity. In 2023, it launched the Polestar 0 project – a moonshot to create a truly climate neutral car by 2030, without relying on o setting.

Meet The Judges

JULIET KINSMAN

A journalist, broadcaster and sustainability expert, Kinsman was Condé Nast Traveller ’s rst sustainability editor and is the founding editor of Mr & Mrs Smith. She now runs Bouteco, a nonpro t consultancy promoting responsible tourism, and frequently appears on BBC and Sky News

FRANCISCA KELLETT

An award-winning travel writer and editor, Kellett writes for The Times , FT and National Geographic Traveller. Formerly at Tatler and The Telegraph , she brings years of editorial experience and a strong commitment to sustainable, communityfocused travel.

MARIAN BOSWALL

Boswall is a leading landscape architect known for her regenerative, ecologically sensitive designs. Her work spans oodplain restoration to heritage gardens. She leads her studio across all design stages, with sustainability and storytelling at the heart of every project.

SARAH LANGFORD

A former criminal barrister turned author, Langford spent seven years managing a Su olk farm through its transition to organic regenerative methods. She is the author of two books, In Your Defence and Rooted , and writes and speaks widely on sustainable food, fashion and farming.

ANNABEL HESELTINE

The journalist, broadcaster and editor holds a master’s in conservation and is host of the Resurgence podcast Hope Springs. Heseltine is also a fellow of the RGS, a trustee for the Women’s Fund for Nature and sits on the advisory board of the Scienti c Exploration Society.

PETRA PETTERSSON

Pettersson is Polestar’s inclusion lead and part of the company’s sustainability team. With over a decade of experience at brands including MQ and Kappahl, she holds a master’s in advanced textile engineering and drives Polestar’s equality and environmental agenda.

FIONA DUNCAN

Hotel critic for The Telegraph since 1999, Duncan has over three decades of experience in hospitality writing. She founded the Charming Small Hotel Guides series and currently edits Country & Town House ’s Great British & Irish Hotels guide, with a sharp eye for character and comfort.

LUCY CLELAND

As editorial director of Country & Town House, Cleland has spearheaded the brand’s sustainability strategy, including its 2023 B Corp certi cation. She leads on responsible editorial policy and is a regular speaker and panellist on regeneration, equity and purpose-driven publishing.

WINNER

Fowlescombe Farm, Devon

Fowlescombe Farm captures the future of British hospitality in one compelling, working model. Set within a regenerating farm landscape, it brings together low-impact luxury, serious environmental intent and a clear sense of purpose. It exhibits a fully integrated approach, from regenerative farming and transparent reporting to thoughtful guest experiences that connect people directly to land, food and nature. Fowlescombe re ects a growing movement towards agritourism in the UK, where hospitality becomes a means of restoring landscapes as much as hosting guests. fowlescombe.com

Best Responsible Newcomer

Glebe House, Devon

Tucked into the East Devon hills, Glebe House is a deeply personal project. A family home set within a former Georgian rectory, it has been reimagined as a small guest house and restaurant. It champions hyper-local food, much of it grown on Glebe’s own smallholding or sourced from nearby producers, with a low-waste kitchen. From in-house salami and breadmaking workshops to the garden and orchard planting, everything here feels full of passion, even if some of the more formal frameworks are still evolving. It is an exciting example of a new generation of hospitality. glebehousedevon.co.uk

Longstanding Commitment Award

Daylesford Organic Farm & Cottages, Gloucestershire

Few have shaped Britain’s sustainable hospitality landscape quite like Carole Bamford. Long before ‘organic’ became fashionable, Daylesford built its model around regenerative farming, seasonal food and working in harmony with nature. This then extended to its hospitality o ering, which operates at signi cant scale while maintaining organic principles, supporting British producers and investing in soil health and biodiversity. daylesford.com

Best Sustainable Pub or Inn

Located anywhere in the UK or Ireland

The Bull Inn, Devon

The Bull Inn proves that true sustainability in hospitality is not about scale. This small pub with rooms in Totnes has built its model from the ground up around low-impact operations, local sourcing and an authentic connection to place – from Devon-made mattresses and locally cra ed interiors to a seasonal, low-waste kitchen that champions nearby farms and producers. Through initiatives like its regenerative hospitality training programme, The Bull’s in uence extends far beyond its own walls. bullinntotnes.co.uk

‘Sustainability has gone from a fad to a buzzword to vital part of any travel experience – something that can add to the joy and soul of staying somewhere truly fabulous’

Francisca Kellett

Best Sustainable City or Town Stay

Located in any UK or Irish city or town

Bingham Riverhouse, London TW10

Set on a quiet stretch of the Thames, Bingham Riverhouse rede nes what a city hotel can be. Family-run, it has woven sustainability through every layer of its operation, from a zero-waste kitchen and green energy supply to rigorous supplier standards and a clear carbon reduction plan. Through its membership model, cultural programming and community partnerships, it brings people together – hosting everything from wellness sessions to conscious business conversations. binghamriverhouse.com

‘It has really interrogated everything from every angle’ Juliet Kinsman

HIGHLY COMMENDED

One Aldwych, London WC2

In the heart of Covent Garden, One Aldwych demonstrates how a large, design-led city hotel can take a measurable approach to sustainability without losing its sense of place. With renewable electricity, meticulous monitoring of energy, water and waste, and a clear commitment to reducing usage year-on-year, its operational discipline is underpinned by a B Corp certi cation. This responsibility shows up in the guest experience too, from its cultural programming to partnerships with local theatres, artists and charities. onealdwych.com

Best Sustainable Country House Stay

Over 30 rooms located in the UK or Irish countryside

The Fife Arms, Braemar, Scotland

Best Sustainable  Small Country Retreat

Under 30 rooms located in the UK or Irish countryside

Fowlescombe Farm, Devon

‘Training is really important... no one else really spoke to that’

Juliet Kinsman

The Fife Arms, in the glorious Cairngorms, is a masterclass in how a country house hotel can own its sense of place while evolving for the future. From renewable energy and carbon tracking to deep relationships with local farmers, estates and makers, decision-making re ects a long-term commitment to the landscape and local community. Investment in people through training, retention and local employment is part of its approach to sourcing and conservation. At the same time, Highland culture, storytelling and cra smanship are celebrated as part of daily life. the fearms.com

Ashford Castle, County Mayo, Ireland

‘I was blown away by it – a proper version of a farm hotel’

Sarah Langford

Fowlescombe Farm, set on a 450-acre regenerative farm near Dartmoor, o ers an exciting vision of modern rural hospitality. Here, the farm and hotel operate as one ecosystem: the land feeds the kitchen; the seasons shape the guest experiences; and organic food production, low-waste cooking, renewable energy and regenerative land management are all part of the model. Staying at Fowlescombe o ers guests the chance to reconnect with the people behind British farming and food production in a way that is absolutely authentic. fowlescombe.co.uk

The Torridon, Scottish Highlands

If you think an 800-year-old estate on Lough Corrib would struggle to put sustainability as a central pillar, think again. Ashford Castle shows how a heritage property can exhibit genuine environmental intent: from extensive estate-to-table sourcing and on-site food production to biodiversity work with Hometree and a highly e ective food waste reduction programme, its sustainability e orts are both ambitious and measurable. Its EarthCheck certi cation adds further weight still. ashfordcastle.com

On the shores of Loch Torridon, The Torridon pairs old-school Highland grandeur with a rigorous approach to sustainability. Its kitchen garden, livestock and foraging programme feed directly into the hotel’s restaurants, while an EarthCheck certi cation, a clear emissions reduction plan and detailed environmental monitoring show its accountability. Familyowned, The Torridon has further ambitions to expand biodiversity projects, including increased low-mow pollinator zones, additional native tree planting and continued habitat protection. thetorridon.com

‘Sustainability is not just a checklist – it’s something that guests can feel in a hotel’s approach from the very first interaction. It’s easy to spot when it’s not there’

Lucy Cleland

Best Sustainable Wild & Remote Stay

Located in an area where guests really feel they can get back to nature WINNER

Kabn, Scottish Highlands

‘It’s

as wild as it gets. A really impressive entry’

Marian Boswall

On the shores of Loch Fyne, Kabn is a deliberately minimal operation. With just two solar-powered, design-led cabins built to sit lightly within its landscape, guests are invited to slow down, whether that’s through wild swimming, cooking together, or simply watching the light shi across the water through the huge glazing. The team’s ethos of creating the conditions for people to notice and engage with what is already there and letting the landscape do the rest feels very right for the times. Kabn also donates one percent of annual revenue to environmental causes. kabncompany.com

HIGHLY COMMENDED

Lough Mardal Lodge, County Donegal, Ireland

Set on lakeside bogland in rural Donegal, Lough Mardal Lodge o ers an o -grid, back-to-nature experience. Guests can stargaze under unpolluted skies, go wild swimming and enjoy sauna sessions. Straw bale buildings, composting systems, rainwater harvesting and renewable energy make the company’s impact light. Its long-term goal is to operate as a fully regenerative, nature-led eco - destination where environmental impact is actively bene cial. It is well on its way. loughmardal glamping.ie

Best Sustainable Coastal Stay

Near or by the coast in the UK or Ireland

The Headland, Cornwall

Best Sustainable Private Rental or Exclusive Use

Hired exclusively and does not operate as a hotel

Keythorpe Hall, Rutland

‘I love all the good works that go on at this Victorian coastal hotel’

Lucy Cleland

The independent, family-run Headland hotel, perched above Fistral Beach, has built a thoughtful sustainability programme around the landscape that de nes it – from local sourcing and renewable energy to beach cleans, marine conservation and partnerships with Cornish producers and organisations. These are then woven into the guest experience through surf lessons, rock pool rambles and lobster releases. Practical initiatives, including food waste reduction and rigorous environmental monitoring, show committed operational rigour. headlandhotel.co.uk

Scarlet, Cornwall

‘There’s real thought and care behind every decision’

Annabel

Land, kitchen and guest experience are intrinsically linked at this owner-operated estate. At its heart is a two-acre walled garden supplying near zero-mile menus, with brilliantly creative dishes and ingredients dictated by seasonality and availability, including inventive substitutes for citrus, vanilla and spices. Energy is generated via biomass, with solar PV underway; waste is designed out through a no-waste kitchen and closed-loop systems that return nutrients to the soil. Flowers are grown, dried and composted on site. No detail is overlooked. keythorpehall.co.uk

Heseltine

HIGHLY COMMENDED

Penicuik Estate, Midlothian, Scotland

Set high above Mawgan Porth, Scarlet is one of the UK’s original exponents of sustainable coastal hospitality. Designed to disappear into the cli side, the hotel’s sea-facing rooms enjoy natural light and Atlantic breezes by design. Renewable energy systems, natural ventilation, rainwater harvesting and a chemical-free outdoor pool have been part of its origin story from the outset. This extends to its food philosophy, with seasonal, locally sourced ingredients re ecting the surrounding Cornish coastline and community. scarlethotel.co.uk

Set across more than 3,000 hectares just outside Edinburgh, Penicuik Estate has been owned and stewarded by the Clerk family since 1654. In 2026, however, it operates according to its 50-year Living Landscape vision, which places regeneration, heritage and enterprise in careful balance. From peatland restoration and native tree planting to restoring historic buildings and inviting guests to stay for the rst time – either in the house itself or other self-catering accommodation – the estate is thinking for the next 400 years. penicuikestate.com ■

RETURN TO THE WILD

Discover WildLand, Europe’s most ambitious conservation project

WildLand is a story of hope in the face of the climate crisis – and one you can inhabit. Spanning over 220,000 acres and 13 estates, this conservation-tourism company has restored not just vast tracks of land and peatlands but a collection of heritage-rich hotels, lodges and cottages across Scotland. Make your next stay one that immerses you in nature, and discover the landscapes – from Loch Ness and the Cairngorms to the rugged Sutherland coastline – in which endangered species like capercaillies, wild cats and beavers are returning.

THE CAIRNGORMS Heart of the Highlands Glenfeshie Lodge, a historic, exclusive-use retreat dating back to the 1880s, sits at the heart of a vast estate where conservation is already visibly regenerating the landscape, from revived Caledonian pine forests to the return of golden eagles, beavers and other native species. Nearby, Killiehuntly Farmhouse, a small boutique hotel, o ers a blend of Scandinavian style and Highland warmth, creating an understated yet deeply connected escape. A scattering of self-catering cottages extends into the wilderness, o ering rare solitude in one of the UK’s most remote environments.

LOCH NESS Legendary Waters and Historic Grandeur

On the banks of Loch Ness, Aldourie Castle is a 400-year-old exclusive-use Baronial estate set within 500 acres of manicured grounds, woodlands (which are being restored at present) and wild ower meadows. Centuries of heritage are brought up to date with stylish interiors, while surrounding cottages and outhouses have been carefully updated to create fabulous places to stay and entertain.

SUTHERLAND The Rugged Northern Coast Dotting along Sutherland’s dramatic coastline, WildLand’s holdings in northern Scotland are as diverse as the landscape itself. Lundies House is a 19th-century church manse transformed into an elegant boutique hotel, set within the pretty village of Tongue. Nearby, the exclusive-use Kinloch Lodge has stylish Scandinavianinspired interiors and a secluded riverside setting. In addition, a collection of self-catered cottages and bothies provide access to one of the UK’s last truly wild coastlines. Its latest opening is Hope – a highland hunting lodge o ering conservation-led hospitality.

Discover the full collection at wildland.scot

Still English Light Glows the

After three years in the US, author Clover Stroud is returning to England – and its birdsong through open windows, a rug spread out on the grass, and the sound of a bumblebee in the climbing roses

Three years ago, I le my home in a wet, green corner of rural England and moved to Washington DC. It was highest summer when we arrived in 2023, and the hot, damp air vibrated with the sound of cicadas. This was not the gentle, late-night clicking that’s the sweet sound of a summer holiday in the Mediterranean. This was more like a rattle, chickpeas in a plastic bottle; so loud I sometimes wondered if someone might be trying to start a motorbike engine outside my bedroom.

When I stepped outside my house to walk past block upon block of gorgeously beautiful houses, with their wraparound verandas and white picket fences containing gardens trimmed into obeyance, the sticky, swampy heat would instantly grasp me, like cling lm on my limbs. At night, I lay in bed, air arti cially cooled by the pump of ever-present AC, and beyond the chopping sound of a helicopter overhead or the scream of a distant siren, I’d always hear those cicadas rattling beyond the windows, which were always tight shut. I dreamed, o en, of mellow, English summer evenings, sleeping in my bedroom in Oxfordshire with the windows ung open, surrounded by the sweet scent of honeysuckle scrambling up the side of my cottage, the only sound the distant, lonely call of an owl.

Leaving England had been a wrench, and in the months a er we arrived in the US, I went through something that I later realised was grief. I know grief: my mum died a er a long illness in 2013, and my sister Nell died of cancer just a er, in 2019. I’m familiar with the disbelief, the fury, the fog, the panic, the exhaustion that are all part of the grieving process.

And while I am absolutely not suggesting that losing a place you love is comparable, in terms of pain, as losing a person, both experiences of grief must involve a sense of letting go. I clung on so tight to the memories of my sister a er she died, stuck in my own life while I tried to will her back to life. It was only really when I let go of the immediate past, and walked onwards – painfully – into my new life without her, that I really found her again, as an embodiment of everything I did. Now, she is with me all the time, in the way I love, parent, cook, decorate, breathe and laugh, but that letting go had to happen for her to return.

It was really painful at times, though. Most of us think we know the US: I grew up in the 80s, and some of my most vivid memories are of watching ET saucer-eyed but really wanting a BMX, a mum with an endless supply of orange juice in a glass jug, and a life in the suburbs. My mum worshipped at the church of that 80s classic, Dallas. I swear she went to sleep dreaming of Bobby. And sometimes JR, too.

But the real US of everyday life (or the occasional pursestretching west coast holiday, or glam New York weekend) are very di erent beasts to the kind of American culture we think we know. I scooped my three youngest children out of their tiny village school in rural England and deposited them in big, multicultural state schools in the capital. My daughter started at junior high, trooping o to class, a backpack strapped to her tiny frame. The huge pillars and head’s voice that I could hear over the tannoy from home made me constantly ask her: ‘Is it just like Grease?’ The reference was a little lost on her.

I’ve missed the mellow English countryside, which is so much gentler than the wilds of the US, where nature is genuinely red in tooth and claw

Likewise, a er I moved to the US, I had to let go of memories of England and stop dreaming of it, longing for it, crying about it. I unfollowed people on Instagram who walked and rode the paths around my house or crossed the Ridgeway – that ancient track over the Berkshire Downs, which is visible from my home – as I found seeing familiar views I missed so much was simply too painful. Instead, I started to learn the grid of Massachusetts and Connecticut Avenue and how that connected to Downtown, to the National Mall and the Capitol Building, which were just a few minutes from home in my new life. I made myself read American novels, and consume American TV shows, and I bought an American cookbook to try to make sense of the sometimes mystifying American food.

When I let go of England, it all got a bit easier. I’ve come to love the expansiveness, the incredible diversity and cultural mash-up of American life. I’m happiest when we leave the city and spread out into the hills of Virginia, or along the coast in Maryland, or – best of all – the weeks and weeks I’ve spent decamped from DC in the landscape of west Texas.

We only came here for two years, but now it’s three, and England is beckoning me again. We’re moving back to our old house on the Oxfordshire-Wiltshire border in May, the loveliest of months. I’m already giddy with the thought of being there when spring is at its ripest; when summer is a lemony glow spreading across the country; when the verges are frothy with cow parsley. England is small, comically so, compared to the US, and there is a heartstopping expansiveness to the American west which I’ll always love, but there’s a true, innate freedom to England. Although we don’t have a complete right to roam, we are able to walk freely over a lot of the countryside. You might encounter a grumpy landowner, but you won’t get shot.

I’m looking forward to gritty cheese sandwiches on a beach in Wales, something I dreamed about while sweltering in the Delaware humidity. I’ve missed the mellow English countryside, which is so much gentler than the wilds of the US, where nature is genuinely red in tooth and claw. There are no beasts that might kill me in England – no rattlesnakes, no snapping turtles, no bears – and although these have been fun to observe and wonder over, my home is barefoot, in the green elds of England.

I’m dreaming of spreading a rug on the lawn and falling asleep with the sound of a bumblebee in a rose clambering up the house beside me, or a wood pigeon in the spreading branches of the oak tree, lulled by the smell of cut grass –and the sweet, perfect beauty of an English summer. ■

cloverstroud.substack.com

Mood for Love In the

Fancy

a dirty weekend? Rowan Pelling on the ingredients needed for the ultimate amorous tryst

The trouble with living in a sexually-liberated society is that it does rather take the edge o clandestine liaisons. Will the non-binary millennials who preach the virtues of ‘consensual non-monogamy’ ever know the delectable vice of a dirty weekend? Are they too caught up with their smartphones and social media? Have we all become too obsessed with yoga and wellbeing post-Covid to properly indulge in bunking o with our best beloved for two nights of champagne and erotic self-indulgence? I’ve also found my Gen X friends can be so indulgent towards grown children that they sweep them away on every break, rather than prioritising their own intimacy.

One long-wed couple

I know book a double room in just one of their names and travel separately before ‘accidentally’ colliding in the hotel bar

Of course, in the strictest traditions of the dirty weekend, your beloved would be married to someone else and you’d simply be borrowing them for two days of horizontal frolics. The wanton tradition traces its origins to the late 18th-century excursions made to Brighton by the then Prince Regent (George IV to be) with his mistress Maria Fitzherbert. The seaside town has kept its crown as the naughty liaison capital of Britain ever since, with excellent rail links making it a dream destination for London adulterers. By common assent, the Pelirocco Hotel on Regency Square acts like catnip for bohemians, while less showy lovers favour the seafront Grand.

But I like to think you can enjoy an away-day tryst with your spouse, so long as you switch your mindset to pure hedonism. One long-wed couple I know share a pact to escape to a di erent seaside hotel twice a year but employ strict rules to shed their everyday personas. They book a double room in just one of their names and travel separately, before ‘accidentally’ colliding in the hotel bar. The duo then indulge in outrageous irtation before retreating upstairs. The jaunt is judged a big success if everyone in their vicinity believes them to be strangers. My own notion of what elements make for the perfect

sexy escape were set in aspic, decades ago, when I had a ing one winter with a dashing author, who juggled a clutch of romantic situations. He booked us a room with a bath at the 15th-century Mermaid Inn in Rye, which had a roaring re in the bar and gorgeous beaches nearby. To this day, my idea of a perfect weekend involves freezing my mitts walking along wind-blasted sea before returning to drink Highland Park by an open re, then retreating upstairs to get amorous in a bathtub.

The ideal scenario also means not running into anyone you know. In the early days of my courtship with my husband we bunked-o work on a Friday and went to the Swan Hotel at Southwold, only to nd it lled with London media types. I even saw a friend’s ex, who was something of a conman, with a rich older woman who was picking up the tab. His cynicism cast a pall on our romanticism. The worst location for a dirty weekend IMHO is the country branch of a social members club, where you’ll be clocked by hundreds. Far better to take yourself o to true wilds. It’s hard to beat Galway’s Ballynahinch Castle Hotel, where passion is fuelled by a breakfast dripping in saturated animal fats. I can’t prove it, but I’ve long suspected vegans have less zest for friskiness than red meat-eaters.

When I canvassed naughty friends for top recommendations, one 50-something practiced rake said that people underestimate central London for hanky-panky: ‘No pressure to explore the museums, just explore each other while admiring the view from the 14th oor of the Hilton on Park Lane, a bargain at weekends.’ The most savvily-saucy escape artist I know, Amanda Zuydervelt, who founded the website Stylebible, also had rm opinions on the topic. She cited the Georgian luxe of Batty Langley’s in Shoreditch and similarly decadent The Witchery by the castle in Edinburgh: ‘with its seductive four-posters, velvet and candlelight’. We both agreed a sense of theatre brings out the exhibitionist in even the shyest lovers.

Do you need further encouragement? Escape your cares and book a gorgeous hotel room – cast of two –for a very private performance. ■

Spa Escape The Great British

Across the UK, a new generation of spa hotels is inviting us to slow down, rest and relax. We’ll take whatever we can get, says Ellie Smith

↙ Clifftop Hot Tubs

Scarlet Hotel, Mawgan Porth, Cornwall

Spa lovers travel from far and wide for a dip in the Scarlet’s cli top Jacuzzi, which overlooks the rocky shores of Mawgan Porth in Cornwall. The coastal setting and aesthetic (an art made of dri wood and hanging cocoon pods vibe) creates a laid-back ambience – helped by the fact the hotel is adultsonly. A ve-minute walk leads you to the sea, but those with an aversion to bracing wild swims can still reap the healing ocean powers by booking the candlelit copper bathtub treatment, which uses antioxidant-rich Cornish seaweed and salt scrub to nourish the skin. scarlethotel.co.uk

A Welsh Healing Retreat

The Dreaming, Powys, Wales Singer Charlotte Church has always been a big believer in the healing powers of nature, which is what drove her to plough her life savings into transforming a historic Welsh mansion into a wellness haven. Tucked away in the Nant Caethon Valley, The Dreaming o ers a regular programme of soulful retreats, designed as an antidote to the overstimulating modern world. There’s a light- lled healing room which hosts sound baths, yoga and journalling, while outdoors guests can bathe in fairytale-like waterfalls, stargaze beneath dark skies and join al fresco silent discos at dawn. thedreaming.co.uk

A Private Island

Isle of Eriska Hotel and Spa, near Oban, Scotland

Situated on its own 300-acre island a few miles north of Oban, the Isle of Eriska Hotel and Spa is the kind of place you can truly switch o . Cross the bridge and feel the stress melt away as you settle into the quiet hum of this west coast hideaway, where the loudest sounds are calling herons. The spa has a 17m swimming pool, steam room and sauna, while treatments utilise local Scottish ingredients. Eriska’s Ultimate Face and Body Indulgence –complete with a radiance facial, neck and scalp massage, fullbody exfoliation and foot ritual – will revitalise you from head to toe. eriska-hotel.co.uk

↑ Twilight Spa

Grantley Hall, Ripon, North Yorkshire

Home to a majestic, Roman bath-like indoor pool, a snow room and a sleek gym with its own cryotherapy chamber and underwater treadmill, the wellbeing facilities at Grantley Hall’s Three Graces spa are second-to-none. But for a really magical experience, book the Twilight Spa package. You can watch the stars from the steamy, outdoor hydrotherapy pool; enjoy the Nordic spa garden a er dark; and try calming treatments like the De-stress oxygen therapy for the face and back, designed to detoxify and hydrate. grantleyhall.co.uk

↑

Private Spa Suites

Gilpin Hotel & Lake House, Lake District

No need to worry about sharing hot tubs with strangers at Lake District retreat Gilpin: the hotel boasts detached spa suites with private facilities. Outside, there are stonebuilt hot tubs with mountain views; inside, the lodges are decked out with steam rooms, saunas, circular bathtubs, infrared lounge beds and Japanese massage chairs. Those who prefer a human touch can arrange inroom treatments featuring Pure Lakes products –including a tailored o ering for walkers with sore feet from exploring the nearby moors. Adding to the zen, bedrooms have oor-toceiling windows overlooking a pond to create the e ect of oating. thegilpin.co.uk

Ayurvedic Healing

Lime Wood, New Forest, Hampshire

With its forest sauna and hydrotherapy pool overlooking the garden, the three-storey Herb House spa has long been the crown jewel of Lime Wood. But its holistic credentials were kicked up a notch when Sheena Chandran joined the team to introduce India’s 5,000-year-old medical system of Ayurveda to the hotel – bringing with her wisdom gleaned from a stint at the prestigious Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary in Thailand. Specialised treatments work to rebalance mind, body and spirit: lumbosacral therapy, for instance, sees herbal paste dough and warm oil massaged into the lower back to strengthen the spinal cord. limewoodhotel.co.uk

↑ Woo-Woo Wellness

The Mandrake, London

Other-worldly Fitzrovia hotel The Mandrake may be known for its hedonistic parties, but wellbeing is also a pivotal part. Themes of surrealism and whimsy run throughout, so it’s on-brand that wellness at the hotel veers towards spirituality – shamanic ceremonies, reiki and crystal bowl baths, for example. The DAMU spa blends ancient wisdom with modern technology to guide guests towards inner equilibrium. The hero treatment is The Origin Pool, a multisensory, zerogravity experience which involves oating in Epsomsalted water while allowing mesmerising digital art installations and sound meditations to lull you into a deeply meditative state. damu.uk

→ Botanical Bothy Rituals

Thyme, Cotswolds

Thyme was named a er the medicinal herb, but it’s also a play on the word ‘time’. The hotel’s ethos is all about slowing down, perfectly embodied in the small yet perfectly formed Meadow spa. Here guests beeline for the Botanical Bothy, a treatment space where warmed, ergonomic seating and the sound of natural waterfalls work to instill a sense of restorative calm. The signature Breath, Scent, Nature ritual combines breathwork, pressure point techniques and lymphatic body brushing to rebalance energy channels – ending with a warm bath on the private veranda. thyme.co.uk

→ Contrast Therapy

Pennyhill Park, Surrey

Contrast therapy is one of the hottest health trends this year, and Pennyhill Park is a ne place to dip your toe in. Its sprawling spa has a multitude of hot and cold o erings, from herbal saunas to ice igloos, but for a proper immersion book onto one of the new contrast therapy retreats. Cold exposure expert David Jackson guides guests through the spa’s thermal spaces, incorporating breathwork and recovery rituals to support nervous system regulation. A erwards, a hot-cold wellbeing treatment will combine cooling therapies with warming, acupunctureinspired massage to quell muscle aches, stimulate blood ow and ease tension. exclusive.co.uk/pennyhill-park ■

← Exclusive Guerlain Facials

Ra es London at The OWO, London City spas have a tendency to feel cramped, but there’s ample space at Ra es London at The OWO’s dazzling wellness hub. Spread across four oors and spanning 27,000sq/ , the UK’s only Guerlain spa oozes Parisian chic, with a standout, 20m pool set beneath grand doubleheight ceilings. Tear yourself away to try one of the signature Guerlain treatments, like the 90-minute Royal Glow Tech facial, which pairs powerful microdermabrasion and soothing light therapy to leave your skin baby-so . ra es.com/london

World Small

An A-Z guide of the perfect British family holiday, by Rebecca Cox (with the input of a panel of parents, travel experts and opinionated kids)

AA is for ADVENTURE

‘What an adventure!’ is a British, Enid Blyton-y way of sugar-coating anything that goes slightly awry while holidaying with kids. Missed the last ferry home? Adventure! Buried the car keys in the sand and lost them (see ‘X’)? Adventure! Biblical downpour results in soggy sandwiches? What an adventure!

BC is for CHIPS

CD is for DUCK HERDING

Travel is all about broadening your horizons. Camilla Davidson, head of destination management at Red Savannah, says: ‘Find an activity that none of the family will have tried before but can each attempt at their own level – falconry, archery or even duck herding spring to mind.’ Apparently all are on o er at the lovely Lucknam Park near Bath.

Not a foodstu for holidaying Brits, but an activity. Finding the best chip shop in any given area and eating whatever they batter best is (probably) a Scouts activity badge. Chips and gravy, curry sauce, battered saveloy or a deep fried Mars bar. ‘C’ is also for ‘culture’ and ‘cuisine’, of which British chips are a ne example.

DB is for BUCKET & SPADE

There’s always one in the car boot until you arrive at the beach, at which point it disappears – presumably some dark magic of the grim (but irresistible) British beachside shops selling decade-old rock, gloopy (delicious) coconut ice, and uorescent plastic beach accessories.

EE is for EATING OUT

‘What I don’t like about holidays is when my parents book fancy restaurants,’ says Arabella, 11. I have to agree; ne dining is o en best enjoyed without children. But that doesn’t mean chicken nuggets, says Palm PR founder Emily Keogh. ‘My son loves Michelin Guide spots like The Nest at The Feathers Hotel in Woodstock, where local produce takes centre stage.’

F is for FOWEY

F

G is for GRANNY

Falmouth, Fowey and Folkestone: all gorgeous seaside destinations in England. There’s something for everyone between Falkirk, Fair Isle and Fort William in Scotland, while long coastal walks from Fishguard in Wales are fabulous. Not that you’d pick your holiday destination based on its starting with an ‘F’ – that would be foolish. Funny, but foolish.

G H

I is for INDEPENDENCE

‘Younger children thrive on routine and imagination, while older ones value independence. Water sports and adventure-style activities give them con dence and freedom,’ says Phoebe Hitchcox of The Lakes by Yoo. The balance between quality time together and having them independently entertained is the ultimate holiday sweet spot.

Or grandpa. They are the key to a restful family holiday. Intergenerational family holidays are on the rise, partly because people want to make magical memories with the whole gang, and partly because there’s nobody with more patience for your kids’ annoyingness than the people who dealt with yours.

H is for HAM

IJ is for JOY IN THE JOURNEY

Avoid the dredge of the A to B and take steps to make it part of the adventure. Mum-of-one Lou shares: ‘I love nding out what a great little traveller Georgie, nine, is, navigating interchanges or planning train picnics.’ Letting the kids join the navigation team could halt the onslaught of the ‘are we nearly there yet?’ hell. Answer: ‘You tell me, mate.’

Valuable insight from Noah, three: ‘My best part of a holiday is eating ham.’ Which just goes to show, you can splash out on an ultra-luxurious, bells and whistles getaway, but sometimes children just want an ultra-processed meat feast.

MKO is for OH WE DO LIKE TO BE BESIDE THE SEASIDE!

Nothing* beats a UK beach. From busy pebble promenades and arcade-packed piers, to remote white sandy havens on the Hebrides or the Scillies. Sun, sea and sand! As Meatloaf so wisely said: ‘Two out of three ain’t bad.’ *Apart from the millions of beaches worldwide that also have good weather

K is for KIDS’ CLUBS

‘A great kids’ club is never just about lling time,’ says Beth Kevan of Worldwide Kids and Luxury Childcare Association. ‘The most memorable ones are expertly led, age-appropriate and genuinely inspiring.’ Jack, ten, cites the luxe Football Escapes camps hosted by ex-pro footballers as ‘cooking’ (this is very good, apparently).

LM is for MEMORIES

It’s amazing what kids remember from their family holidays (think of sweet Noah and his ham). Singing Cli Richard’s Summer Holiday in the car, choosing a puzzle book at the rst service station stop, a seagull stealing mum’s ice cream... tiny family rituals will result in a lifetime of warm, fuzzy, nostalgic feelings.

L is for LONDON

Don’t overlook seeing the third most visited city in the world through your children’s eyes. John Andrews of The Goring in Belgravia says: ‘Our city is rich in famous landmarks that spark curiosity and imagination. These iconic sights help children connect stories from books and school lessons to real places, making history feel alive and exciting.’

ONSpot dolphins and pu ns from the Cli s of Moher in Ireland. See otters and seals from Strangford Lough in Northern Ireland. England’s New Forest National Park is an ancient woodland where wild ponies roam free. Pembrokeshire in Wales is a haven for seabirds, while Scotland’s Cairngorms are home to a free-roaming reindeer herd, golden eagles and ospreys.

PP is for POOL

‘The best part of any holiday is going to the pool.’ Riyaan, six, knows the joys of pool time. The in nity sky pool at Shangri-La The Shard in London provides particularly memorable swim time, with views across the capital from 52 oors up. Or for a wilder swim, the seawater mermaid pool at the Burgh Island hotel in Devon is carved directly into the rocky shoreline.

Q is for QUALITY TIME TOGETHER

Q R

S is for SPACE

‘Space is one of the most underrated ingredients of a successful family holiday,’ Beth Kevan says. ‘Thoughtfully designed family accommodation – whether that’s interconnecting rooms or room to spread out –makes a huge di erence.’ This is corroborated by 15-year-old Romilly: ‘When you’re enclosed with your siblings for too long, it’s reeeeeeally annoying.’

Of all the children and parents asked about their favourite thing about holidays, 90 percent of them said ‘spending quality time with my family’. Whether you’re in a ve-star haven or sleeping in a car next to a collapsed tent, you just can’t beat quality time together making memories away from the humdrum of everyday overwhelm.

SR is for REST & RELAXATION

There will be no such thing on a good family holiday. You will return tired, broke and aged by at least one decade. (But grateful for all that quality time nonetheless.)

T is for TRAINS

The golden age of British train travel, take two. Travel to Scotland (by rail, of course) and board the Jacobite Steam Train, aka the Hogwarts Express; steam through heather-clad moors on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway; or have a real adventure on a sleeper train journey aboard the Night Riviera from Paddington to Penzance.

U is for UNIVERSAL ACCESS

U V

W is for WET WET WET

Wellies, waterproofs, whipping winds, woeful weather.

There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing. (But poor weather really does ruin everything, doesn’t it?)

Inclusivity and accessibility are not nice-to-haves, but rather the bare minimum for many. Hotels that care about catering for everyone make for the best bases for families. Tourism For All is a charity o ering advice to both travellers and businesses, along with activity ideas for individuals with a whole range of disabilities.

WV is for

VOLLEYBALL

Volleyball, padel, ping pong, pickleball... there’s nothing like a bit of family competition to liven up a trip. Just don’t play with ten-year-old Raife, a self-confessed sore loser: ‘The very worst thing about holidays is getting beaten at sports.’ Unfortunately for Raife, when the kids start winning it stops being fun for the grown-ups, so here we are.

X is for X MARKS THE SPOT

Treasure hunts on the beach are always a winner. Though choosing a large and nonessential item as the treasure is crucial – something mum-of-two Emma learned the hard way when she allowed her children to bury the car keys in the sand to buy herself ten minutes of peace. The result: a not-so-peaceful, four-hour recovery mission.

Y is for YIKES!

A small book of family-friendly curses is useful for navigating an intense period of time with your loved ones curse-free. Yikes! Barnacles! Fudge! Bringing back some retro insults is also quite fun. Try ‘snollygoster’ (a dishonest politician), ‘shabberoon’ (poorly-dressed disreputable person) or – useful for teenagers – ‘neerdowell’ (an idle loafer or scrounger).

YX Z

Z is for ZIP WIRE

Cited by several children as a key holiday highlight. The world’s fastest can be found at Zip World Penrhyn Quarry in north Wales, where at 100mph there is little-to-no chance of being le hanging like a limp tea towel – à la Boris Johnson at the 2012 Olympics. ■

The Home of Country Clothing - Scotland’s Most Prestigious Store

No journey through Scotland is truly complete without immersing yourself in the beauty of our impressive shop, which has been delighting visitors for over 30 years. Filled with colour, natural fibres, and exclusive hand-crafted gifts, The House of Bruar offers an unforgettable shopping experience. Explore our incredible departments and take a walk up the Bruar Falls for the perfect day out.

Men’s & Ladies Country Clothing, Shoe & Accessories Halls

Huge selection of leading brands curated alongside House of Bruar collections

The largest Pure Cashmere & Natural Fibre Knitwear Hall in Great Britain

Comprehensive Fishing Tackle & Country Pursuits Department

Award-winning Food Hall with Butchery, Delicatessen and standalone Whisky Shop

Restaurant & Bakery, serving delicious freshly prepared meals & cakes with atrium seating area

Country Living Hall, Present Shop & Rural Art Gallery

Fish & Chip Shop serving lobster & pies, & The Scottish Ice Cream Parlour

Abundance of free parking and on the doorstep of the magnificent Falls of Bruar walk

The House of Bruar, by Blair Atholl, Perthshire, PH18 5TW. Email: reception@houseofbruar.com WWW.HOUSEOFBRUAR.COM | 01796 483236

Lizzie Line Life on the

Where railroads lead, we follow. The arrival of the Elizabeth Line has opened up London and beyond like never before, says Isabel Dempsey

Go Wine Tasting

Established in 1979, Stanlake Park Wine Estate is one of England’s oldest wine producers. Set within 130 acres of lush Berkshire countryside, tours begin among the vines before moving inside for a guided lesson in winemaking, with tastings along the way. Want to linger? On-site accommodation o ers the perfect place to unwind a er a day spent attempting to identify the bouquet.

Unwind At The Langley

A short hop from Langley station, The Langley is a luxury spa hotel set within 150 acres of parkland designed by Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown. Once home to Charles Spencer, 3rd Duke of Marlborough, it now boasts one of Europe’s largest in-hotel spas. Book the VIP spa suite for indoor and outdoor vitality pools, a juniper sauna, an amethyst steam room and bespoke treatments.

Explore A Manor House

Stroll through Buckinghamshire’s countryside to Dorney Court, home to the Palmer family for over 480 years. This Grade I-listed Tudor manor – recognisable from Bridgerton and Bohemian Rhapsody – is rarely open to the public, but its private Connoisseurs’ Tours o er access, complete with homemade biscuits and a glass of damson gin.

Go Independent

Roam Off The Beaten Track

Sleep In

Beyond Seven Dials and the British Museum lies Soho’s quirkier side. Discover the Grant Museum of Zoology, the Brunei Gallery, the Petrie Museum of Egyptian Archaeology and a cluster of independent art galleries – all just a short stroll from the crowds.

Skip the bustle of Ealing Broadway and head to West Ealing for indie charm. North elds Avenue is lined with local favourites including Pitshanger Bakery, Delizia, Tapelia and Patri. Round o your day with a visit to Pitzhanger Manor Gallery and a wander through Walpole Park.

Batty Langley’s, a Georgian gem with magni cent four-poster beds, makes a characterful base for exploring Liverpool Street. Spend the day browsing Old Spital elds, hunting vintage nds on Brick Lane and

Look Beyond The Shops

Bond Street isn’t just handbags and haute couture. Slip away to The Wallace Collection, a gilded townhouse museum completed in the 19th century by the Marquesses of Hertford and Sir Richard Wallace. Inside: sculpture, Old Masters, and an extraordinary armoury collection.

Find Your Sea Legs

See Little Venice from the water with a GoBoat from Merchant Square, cruising from Paddington towards Camden or Kensal Green. With space for eight, there’s no experience required. Prefer something sportier? Test your balance on the water with paddleboard yoga or pilates at Paddleboarding London.

Get Gory

Whitechapel’s reputation remains tied to its unsolved past. Book a dusk Jack the Ripper tour to delve into the infamous murders or visit the nearby museum for more grisly detail. For lighter pursuits, Whitechapel Gallery o ers a cultural counterpoint.

Recharge

Canary Wharf’s nancerst image is so ening into something more wellness-driven. Unwind at the Arc Community sauna, oat along the Thames in a hot tub boat, play padel at Padium or retreat to Crossrail Place’s roof garden. For a full reset, book Tribe and tap into its Third Space partnership for cryotherapy, vibroacoustic therapy, gym and pool access.

Get Your Cultural Fix

Stratford is fast becoming a cultural hub. Before ABBA Voyage, explore the V&A East Storehouse and the new V&A East. The Storehouse o ers behind-the-scenes access to the museum’s vast collections of costumes, curios and cabinets, with private object viewings available to book in advance.

STRATFORD

Discover The Great Outdoors

trail; or south-west for the historic gardens

Step o at Brentwood and straight into countryside. Head south-east for Thorndon Country Park’s woodland loop and Gru alo sculptures; north for the deer park on the Weald circuit and Stick Man trail; or south-west for the historic gardens of Warley Place. ■

Notswolds Welcome to the

Whisper it quietly, but there might just be an under-the-radar pretender to the Cotswolds crown, says Simon Kurs

Those familiar with a certain breed of Cotswolds hotel will recognise the aesthetic immediately: vaulted farmhouse ceilings o set by industriallooking oor-to-ceiling Crittall windows that look out to a kitchen garden, glorious countryside beyond.

This is Grace & Savour, the Michelin-starred restaurant at Hampton Manor, and it is, on rst impression, the sort of space precisionengineered for the DFL set, who like their rural escapism bu ered by metropolitan sensibilities. They’ve come for the weekend and this meal is the high point: a 14-course tasting menu that reads like a love letter to British terroir.

Hampton Manor is exactly the kind of destination hotel the Cotswolds has, over the past decade, made its own: a grand Grade II-listed residence, luxuriously reimagined through a Soho House lens.

Except this isn’t the Cotswolds.

The 45-acre estate lies in the village of Hampton in Arden – a pocket of countryside closer to Birmingham than to honey-stoned Broadway. This is the far-westerly fringe of what some have begun to call the Notswolds.

The Cotswolds, of course, needs little introduction. It has become the shorthand for a certain pastoral idyll – a place where London decamps on Friday evenings in search of long lunches, log res and a recalibrated pace of life.

But as the brand has expanded, so too have the grumblings. Visitor numbers exceeded 38m last year, fuelled by the relentless media spotlight around gures such as Jeremy Clarkson and the Beckham clan. Snarkier commentators have declared the region overcooked. Whether that’s fair is another matter but it does beg the question: what’s the alternative?

That is what has drawn me to this corner of the West Midlands – to explore whether the so-called Notswolds can o er the same kind of agrarian-chic fantasy, albeit one with less risk of running into JD Vance when out on a ramble.

The exact boundaries of the Notswolds are up for debate, though the tiny county of Rutland is generally considered its spiritual heart, anked by Leicestershire, Northamptonshire and other chunks of the Midlands. The connective tissue is simple: adjacency to the Cotswolds, and therefore easy access from London, with a similar combination of country houses, smart market towns and characterful villages.

For weekend breakers like myself, much of this region remains under the radar.

It’s something James and Fjona Hill are determined to change. In Hampton Manor – just over an hour by train from London – they have created a destination that compares favourably indeed with many big-hitters further south.

‘There are some really incredible hotels

in the Cotswolds, but there are also some that trade o their location,’ James tells me. ‘Because of where we are, we have had to work harder.’

And work harder they have. When it rst opened in 2010, Hampton Manor resembled a more traditional country house stay, centred around the main Victorian building, once home to Sir Robert Peel.

Today those bones are o set with contemporary design touches and eye-catching fabrics woven through the Arts and Cra s grandeur. The interiors are Fjona’s domain and she’s rightly proud of the distinctive modern heritage style she’s created, which is cosy, but strikingly cool – like a Midlands take on Scandi luxe.

It feels very geared to an urban visitor, and it’s a wonder anyone leaves – though that would be a shame.

Hampton in Arden is a gloriously quiet village of Tudor-framed houses and higgledy-piggledy Victorian terraces, alongside shiny, glass-fronted new builds. It feels more Surrey-like than deepest Gloucestershire, but the handsome parish church, local pub and many footpaths lend a familiar tang of re ned country living.

Further a eld, I can recommend the terri c canal-side walk between two lovely National Trust properties, Packwood House and Baddesley Clinton, or a visit to Henley-in-Arden to the south, which is the kind of historic market town the Cotswolds has made its own.

Of course, every country weekender needs a proper constitutional. One bright a ernoon we headed west to Lickey Hills Country Park. The 20-minute drive is worth it for the vast sweep of ancient woodland trails, taking in panoramic views that stretch across the Vale of Evesham.

And a er such muddy exertions, there’s only one sensible option: the pub. Bought in 2024 by owners

Bex and Sarah, The Wildmoor Oak has swi ly become a local dining destination for good reason. My starter of potted shrimp on walnut sourdough, followed by a crunchy chicken schnitzel, would have been gladly received in a Chelsea gastro-pub, let alone on a country lane. Even better: the place is buzzy, rather than overly busy, as might be expected in a Cotswolds venue of similar calibre.

Indeed, that absence of crowds is a de ning note in any comparison between the two regions. ‘The appeal of the Notswolds really is the space,’ con rms Laura Jekyll. ‘It’s far quieter than other parts of the country.’

Jekyll swapped a London life as a city exec for a farmhouse in Lincolnshire shortly before the birth of her second child – and she’s well placed to explain just what this region has to o er. Today, she’s become something of a semi-o cial cheerleader for the Notswolds having launched notswolds.com

‘We should probably run

an advertising compaign:

“Don’t come to the Notswolds”’

‘Most people know this part of the world because the A1 runs straight through it,’ she says. ‘They’ve travelled through the Midlands countless times – but very few realise what they’re passing.’

What they’re missing, she argues, is a place where heritage and modern life sit comfortably side by side.

‘You’ve got beautiful valleys – like the Welland Valley where Rutland meets Leicestershire – and then as you move up into Lincolnshire it opens out into vast farmland. Then you’ve got places like Melton Mowbray with its rich food culture, and cities like Leicester and Nottingham that feel genuinely vibrant and are really regenerating.’

A burgeoning gastro scene, driven by the Michelin green-starred restaurant Jericho close to Nottingham, and a growing number of design-led hotels, are the most obvious echoes of the Cotswolds. But they’re not the only ones.

Much of the region shares the same seam of honeyed limestone – most notably in Stamford, o en cited as having one of Britain’s nest high streets, lined with a cool array of independent shops and elegant Georgian façades.

Then there are the country estates. Northamptonshire has already become a particular favourite of London’s social set, thanks in part to its high concentration of privately owned manors. These include Althorp, the Grade I-listed home of Earl Spencer, where Diana, Princess of Wales grew up, and the Baroque English stately pile where Saltburn was lmed.

The question, of course, is whether there’s enough to really satisfy the more discerning weekend crowd.

On initial inspection, the answer is a con dent yes. Take Rutland. England’s smallest county punches well above its weight. There’s a trio of standout stays: The Olive Branch, a cosy restaurant with rooms rated by Giles Coren no less; Hambleton Hall, which is home to a cracking Michelin-starred restaurant; and The Barnsdale, with its polished, design-conscious take on the modern country boutique escape.

Nearby, you’ll nd Rutland Nursery – dubbed the local answer to Daylesford – which pairs excellent organic food

Laura Jekyll, founder of notswolds.com

with sweeping views over the glorious Rutland Water, while just down the road in Uppingham, Fern is making a name for itself with seasonal British small plates and organic wines.

Then it’s just a hop across the county border to Leicestershire for one of the region’s key cultural hits. Each June, audiences gather in the verdant grounds of Nevill Holt Hall for the Nevill Holt Festival. This celebration of music, arts and ideas began life as an opera festival but has evolved into something more exciting –more Glastonbury than Glyndebourne, as some put it.

For those seeking a new playground for a weekend escape, this is all exciting news . ‘There’s a real energy to the region at the moment,’ con rms Jekyll.

Not that everyone is so enthused, however. ‘We hear it all the time,’ she continues jokingly. ‘Don’t let it become like the Cotswolds.’ People here quite like ying under the radar. In fact, we should probably run an advertising campaign: “Don’t come to the Notswolds.”’ ■

Breadof Heaven

Rebecca Cox on why the humble bread course is having a moment

Burgundy leather menus are snapped shut and removed, a glass of champagne set down. And then, bliss: a small basket of so , warm rolls is placed on the table, beside a miniature dish of rm, salted butter. The bread course has arrived; the single highlight of any restaurant experience, setting the bar for what’s to follow. The bread is torn down the centre, a swirl of steam rising from the so u y white interior, a generous slice of buttercup-yellow butter slotted inside, the edges melting on impact.

Of course, you cannot survive on a diet of bread alone. But that should not deter you from trying. I take bread very seriously. I visit my local farmers’ market every weekend and buy two of my favourite loaves, eating almost half of each on the rst day. When I travel to Paris, I take an empty bag and bring back a minimum of ve baguettes to slice up and freeze the minute I get through the front door. I would eat bread for every meal if I could – I’m not ashamed to admit that, for spells of my life, I have. Jam on toast for breakfast, a sandwich for lunch, soup and sourdough for dinner; when it comes to comfort food, nothing else comes close.

I don’t have the monopoly on bread-worship, of course. Richard Hart, author of Bread: Intuitive Sourdough Baking and one of the world’s most famous bakers (he even gets a shout out in TV show The Bear) perhaps loves it even more than me. ‘I love a bloomer or tiger top, white bread for nostalgia, toasted with butter and marmalade. That takes me back to summers at my grandparents’ house when I was a kid. We would have that on the table for breakfast; it nourishes my soul and takes me back.’

I meet Richard at the launch of Claridge’s Bakery earlier this year, of which he is creative director, and I nibble on buttered samples of his white sourdough as he talks, crumbs dropping onto my jumper. The luxe hotel bakery is on the rise. Whether it’s a sign of the economic times, or a backlash against the abstinence of the Ozempic brigade, carbs, speci cally bread, are back on the menu.

‘People don’t have a lot of money. But I think most people can a ord to go to a bakery and buy one or two things. I used to work in ne dining but then, becoming a baker, I get to feed everyone. I get to feed Grandma, I get to feed the kids. That’s a really lovely thing.’

Lovely indeed, and perhaps therein lies the real magic of bread – it’s for everyone. Away from Claridge’s Bakery and Michelin-starred table service, bread is working wonders in South London. At The Clink, Brixton, a restaurant and bakery inside HMP Brixton, bread is baked by inmates who are working toward their City & Guilds NVQs in Professional Cookery and related quali cations.

‘Here, bread carries an additional weight,’ says head of marketing Simon Reeves. ‘It’s not only about avour or technique, it’s about dignity, rehabilitation and opportunity.

UNMISSABLE RESTAURANT BREAD COURSES

SPRING

Somerset House, London

THE CLINK

HMP Brixton, London

WOVEN by Adam Smith

Coworth Park, Ascot

AKUB Notting Hill, London

CORD by Le Cordon Bleu Fleet Street, London

THE KITCHIN Leith, Scotland

COOMBESHEAD FARM Cornwall

LONDON BAKERIES WORTH QUEUING FOR

TOAD BAKERY Camberwell

CLARIDGE’S BAKERY Mayfair

AUGUST BAKERY Battersea Rise

KOSSOFFS Kentish Town

CÉDRIC GROLET AT THE BERKELEY Knightsbridge

FORTITUDE BAKEHOUSE Russell Square

MILK RUN

Tooting Bec

‘A spectacular bread course is one that nourishes everyone involved: the person who made it, the person who serves it and the person who eats it. Bread has always been about sustenance. When done right, it’s also about the potential for hope.’

Indeed, the phrase ‘break bread’ represents reconciliation, bringing people together, the start of a brighter future. Now, this might be the wheat-induced sugar rush talking, but bread really does seem to have transformative powers.

‘We Brits love bread because it has been part of our food culture for centuries; it provokes nostalgia that brings us comfort,’ says Adam Smith, head chef at Michelin-starred Woven by Adam Smith at Coworth Park. His bread course is one of the best I’ve ever had.

‘I believe that you can judge a great restaurant by its bread,’ he tells me (very much preaching to the choir). ‘At Woven we really like to celebrate bread as a course in its own right. It’s a display of the artisanal cra and skills used daily by our bakers to produce ve types of bread showcasing ve di erent techniques. From a natural sourdough, cross-laminated cheese pain au Swiss or a rich, dense dough made from Einkorn wheat, one of the oldest known wheat species that remains unaltered from its ancient origins.’

The only problem with a superlative bread basket? The potential for the meal that follows to go downhill. (Thankfully, despite the unbelievably mouthwateringly indulgent cheese pain au Swiss, this is not something that happens at Woven.)

Whether it’s baked in a Michelin-starred kitchen, a trendy bakery or a prison kitchen, great bread has one thing in common, according to Richard Hart: the love that goes into it. ‘You should buy bread from someone who makes it with their heart. And people who are obsessed with baking – they’ll put everything they’ve got into it.’

All this said, I think I’m justi ed in the approach I take when eating the stu . A dense, seeded multigrain slice, toasted and slathered with crunchy peanut butter. The end of a warm, baked baguette, dipped in salted olive oil. A slice of bouncy sourdough with butter and just the right amount of Marmite. A warm restaurant roll, served with miso butter and the promise of a great meal to follow. No, one cannot live on bread alone. But one can live for it. ■

Packed Lunch

Tessa Dunthorne travels the country’s lengths to find the best or most infamous regional foods

The most infamous Cornish pasty in Cornwall

Philps, Marazion

Rishi Sunak infamously tucked into one of these traditional west country delights in 2024, on a prime ministerial visit to seaside town Hayle. The press ridiculed him for dual-wielding his Cornish pasty – apparently a faux pas. Though his technique might have been strange, his choice of bakery was not: Philps of Hayle, a beloved familyrun business. Its Marazion shop, 15 minutes’ drive from the Sunak spot, sits in view of folkloric St Michael’s Mount. Enjoy your meaty pasty al fresco, but perhaps with just one hand.

The loveliest butcher’s in the New Forest

Sway Butchers, Lymington

The Pig hotels have built up legendary status not least for an uber-local approach to ingredient sourcing. At the original Pig hotel, chef Tom Sheppard recommends one family butcher’s shop. ‘I recommend Sway butchers – great sausages in particular, and fantastic seasonal specialities such as the pannage pork, and local venison,’ Sheppard says. This little butcher’s is currently run by a sixth-generation butcher, David West, who opened up his Hampshire outpost in 1976.

The best ice cider in the West Country

Pass Vale Farm, Somerset

Ice cider in Britain is a rare nd. It is to cider as ice wine is to wine – a much sweeter, more concentrated drink. And full disclaimer, it originated in Canada. But the English home of cider, Somerset (sorry Devon), has of late been giving the drink a spin, borrowing from winemaking techniques where frozen apples are concreted into the ultra-boozy, syrupy dessert drink.

To try on home turf, visit Burrow Hill Cider’s summer cider bus and enjoy a tipple on a pretty working farm.

The gastropub in the Cotswolds that celebs love

The Bull, Chipping Norton

The chocolate box villages in the Cotswolds have always attracted a slew of Americans, celebrities, royals and city folk eager to catch fresh air. It must be the appeal of a sleepy British break, where there’s little phone signal but still fantastic shopping opportunities, and it’s almost certainly linked to the slap-up dinners you can nd in the most random little inns. The Oxfordshire/ Gloucestershire belt can boast among the country’s best gastropubs: The Woolpack Inn, The Bell Inn Langford… But the worst-kept secret of all is The Bull, Charlbury. The celebrity guestbook includes David Beckham (who celebrated his knighthood here), Robbie Williams, Jack Whitehall and Ellen DeGeneres.

The finest Essex oysters

Borough Market, London

Not everyone is willing to shuck this particular sea stu raw, and there’s a plethora of chefs in the UK and Ireland o ering deep-fried, poached and foami ed versions of the mollusc. But for those with the stomach, if you want to try a proper English oyster, heading to Essex is your best bet. Ed Campbell, head chef of The White Hart Inn, a two AA rosette restaurant in Mersea, says the history of oysters here is storied. ‘The Romans loved our oysters so much, they towed them in nets behind their boats all the way back to Rome,’ he says. ‘Buy them from the Haward family, who have been cultivating oysters in and around Mersea Island’s creeks since the 1700s. These are some of the nest in the world, sold across the UK to the reach of Dubai and China.’ You’ll actually nd these oysters at the family’s stall in Borough Market, or in various Mersea Island restaurants.

The birthplace of the deep fried Mars bar in Scotland

Carron Fish Bar, Stonehaven Scotland’s food scene – and our perception of it – has shi ed dramatically in the last two decades. It’s not all Irn Bru and deep fried Mars bars. In Edinburgh, seven restaurants boast Michelin stars, ve more Bib Gourmands, and the ‘natural larder’ of Scotland is bursting: game meats in Perthshire, seafood on the west coast, the isolated restaurants on various isles and lochs that whip up a kitchen storm. To eat a deep fried Mars bar is a dead giveaway that you are a tourist. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try one at least once, though; fatty batter cuts into gooey chocolate and it’s really best shared between two as it’s so rich, but you’ll love this controversial treat if you’ve a sweet tooth. Try at its birthplace, Carron Fish Bar in Stonehaven, with a dramatic view of cli -top Dunnottar Castle in the distance.

The homeliest Welsh cakes in Cardiff

Cardi Bakestones, Cardi

In Welsh, these small, spiced, stovetop cakes are called pice ar y maen . Crumbly to the touch and chocka with dried raisins, most proud Cambrians are likely to insist that their grandmother’s home recipe is the capital choice. But if you’re not lucky enough to have a Welsh nan, it’s to the local bakeries you must look. Tom Waters, chef patron of Michelin-starred Gorse (the rst ever restaurant in Cardi to receive the award), suggests the Cardi Bakestones in the city’s market. ‘It’s a family business that has been there since I can remember,’ he says, ‘with everything baked in front of you. I like the chunkiness of the Welsh cakes; try the classic, and eat while still warm.’

The best Bakewell in the Midlands

The Bakewell Tart Shop, Bakewell

The real insiders know Bakewell’s original dessert icon is actually a pudding, not a tart. ‘Mr Kipling completely invented the icing and cherry on top,’ says Rosie Kellett, chef and author of In For Dinner. ‘Most people don’t know that the recipe originally called for a pudding made with pu pastry and a custardy lling,’ she explains. ‘The tart uses shortcrust pastry and has more of a frangipane-like lling.’ For an authentic Bakewell, she recommends heading to The Bakewell Tart Shop, where she worked as a teenager. ‘My favourite is a slice of the tart from their large traybake, which has the perfect size and ratio of pastry to lling.’

The most indulgent Ulster fry in Ireland

Grand Café, Belfast

The key distinction between an Ulster and Irish fry is that the former o ers both potato bread and soda farls –carb overload – whereas the latter usually includes only soda bread. Don’t ask the di erence, as they’re made of almost the same ingredients, but farls are basically the Platonic ideal of doughy comfort food. Michael Deane, who is considered the godfather of Northern Irish ne dining, says: ‘If I were treating myself to a breakfast, it would be at the Grand Café at the Grand Central Hotel in Belfast. I’m not having as many of them these days as I’m on a health kick, but you can’t beat simple, local produce cooked with air and imagination.’

The sweetest Gypsy tart in Kent

The Moat Tea Rooms, Canterbury

Kent isn’t all rarebit, says The Beacon’s head chef Scott Goss, who competed for the county on Great British Menu . ‘We’ve got dayboats from Whitstable, native oysters, wild rabbits and birds in feather delivered fresh daily to local pubs,’ he says. ‘And nd me a better tasting lamb or hogget in the country than salt marsh!’ The ultimate Kentish dish, though, is the Gypsy tart. This sugar-rush dessert is made with evaporated milk and muscovado sugar, and is best found in Kent’s little tea rooms – try for The Moat Tea Rooms in Canterbury.

The oldest eel, pie and mash shop in London

M.Manze, London

Once a staple of the Cockney diet, there are only 30 or so shops le in the capital dedicated to traditional pie and mash – that is, the kind with jellied eels. You can nd souped-up ne dining takes from Mayfair stalwarts, like The Wolseley, but for the real deal, look to M.Manze. The oldest trad pie shop in London, at three sites (Bermondsey, Peckham and Sutton) you can enjoy a whopper plate of upside-down pie, mash and parsley sauce. To eat it the proper way, totally douse in chilli vinegar and don’t dare be caught using a knife. ■

HouseCountry Stays

The British Isles does country stays like nowhere else

Global Britain

From Italian palazzos to Mughal splendour and even the cosmos itself, these remarkable British houses offer escapes into other worlds, says Skylar Pinchal

← North Africa at The Arab Room, Cardiff

When it comes to Islamic interiors in the UK, the Arab Hall at Leighton House seems to get all the attention. However, there’s another Orientalist jewel box on our doorstep (one that is arguably more opulent) that deserves your attention: The Arab Room at Cardi Castle.

While the castle itself has Norman roots dating back to the 11th century, the Arab Room was built in 1881 by William Burges –a stalwart of the Gothic Revival and a supporter of the Pre-Raphaelites and the Arts and Cra s Movement. Like an Orientalist painting, the Arab Room is a stylistic conglomeration of pan-Islamic cultures and the imagined –with a dash of British.

Styled a er paintings of harems, it boasts Egyptian-inspired stained-glass windows, mashrabiya shutters, wall-to-wall marble, and the heraldic shield of the Marquess of Bute. The pièce de résistance is, undoubtedly, the ceiling of gold-leaf-smothered muqarnas –reportedly valued at a casual £8m. cardi castle.com

↓ Italy at Osborne, Isle of Wight

Italy is having a bit of a moment on television. You might have found yourself pining for the Italian countryside, as Stanley Tucci ate his way across his ancestral land in Tucci in Italy Alternatively, if Emily in Paris is more your niche (we won’t tell), you probably fell in love with La Posta Vecchia – the 17th-century seaside palazzo-turned-hotel, lled with priceless Roman sculptures and museum-quality pieces of furniture from previous owner J. Paul Getty himself. Well, the UK has its own little slice of Italian countryside nery in Osborne House: Queen Victoria and Prince Albert’s seaside summerhouse on the Isle of Wight.

Built between 1845 and 1851, the Italianate house was made to echo Italian Renaissance palazzos, and was designed by Thomas Cubitt –the architect who famously developed Belgravia as well as redesigned the façade of Buckingham Palace. Osborne’s interiors are adorned with frescoes, marble statues, and Minton tiles in the technicolour Renaissance revival style.

Osborne also o ers a bit of bonus faux jetsetting. In addition to Italy, you get both India in the enchanting Durbar Room, a dining room ornamented by Indian master carver Bhai Ram Singh and designed by John Lockwood Kipling (Rudyard’s father), and Switzerland, in a Picturesque Swiss cottage built for the royal children. english-heritage.org.uk

← Switzerland at Swiss Cottage, Devon

If a three-quarter scale Swiss cottage at Osborne has your attention, then we have some excellent news: you can rent a (full-scale!) Swiss cottage via The Landmark Trust. Did you catch the Marie Antoinette exhibition at the V&A? If so, did her Sèvres porcelain breast cup remind you of her milkmaid fantasy within her personal hamlet on the grounds of Versailles? Well, this Swiss cottage was a Picturesque adult Wendy house for Georgiana, Duchess of Bedford (wife of the sixth Duke) to play milkmaid in the grounds of Endsleigh House in Devon.

Cosplaying milkmaids was a bit of a trend for royal and aristocratic women of the 18th and early-19th centuries, in case you hadn’t noticed – the original tradwife trend. Designed by Je rey Wyattville, this twobedroom petit chalet o ers a charming country kitchen, leaded glass windows, and a balcony that overlooks the Tamar River and miles of topographic woodland. If you’ve ever dreamt of recreating scenes from Heidi, this is your chance (it’s also a fabulous excuse to buy a dirndl). landmarktrust.org.uk

↑ India at Elveden Hall, Norfolk

The Koh-i-Noor diamond isn’t the only Indian jewel in the UK. Built in the mid-18th century, Elveden Hall had quite the glow-up when Maharaja Duleep Singh, the nal ruler of the Sikh Empire, purchased it in 1863.

← China at The China Garden at Biddulph Grange, Shropshire

A er all these houses, maybe a nice walk is in order. Fancy a walk in China?

Designed in the 1840s, the gardens at Biddulph Grange (a moody Victorian mansion) boast many a theme, such as Egyptian and Italian – but it’s the Chinese garden that stands out.

Fiery red pagodas, golden statues, and bright green fences of ornate fretwork stand out against the foliage (as does the miniature replica of the Great Wall). You may recognise this bridge, as it was inspired by the Blue Willow pattern seen on tableware originating in the 18th century (and remains popular to this day – probably found at your granny’s house).

Children will love it for the pond and excellent hide-and-seek potential within the winding paths. nationaltrust.org.uk

With the help of Gothic Revival architect John Norton, he redesigned the interiors of Elveden to resemble the palaces of the Mughals – a bit of Indian splendour in the middle of East Anglia.

From the mid-18th century through well into the 20th century, British interpretations of Indian architecture weren’t unusual, like Sezincote House, the Royal Pavilion in Brighton, and Queen Victoria’s Durbar room at Osborne House.

What makes Elveden’s Indian interior architecture so special is that it was owned by and designed for an actual Indian to evoke his homeland rather than for an Englishman based on drawings and the imagined. In other words, it truly is the closest thing to historic India that one can nd in the UK. heritagexplore.com

→ The Cosmos at Mount Stuart, Isle of Bute

Earth is a messy place right now, so why should we limit ourselves to it? If Katy Perry can go to outer space, then so can we. Envelop yourself in the cosmos at Mount Stuart house on the Isle of Bute.

Originally built in the early 18th century, it was destroyed by a re in the 1870s, and was subsequently rebuilt in the Gothic Revival style – an aesthetic that allows for lots of eccentricity within interiors.

The third Marquess of Bute, its custodian at the time, was completely fascinated by both astronomy and astrology, and he wanted to make sure his interests were re ected.

The ceiling of the Marble Hall depicts the signs of the zodiac, which, illuminated by astrology-themed stained-glass windows, glisten with crystal-studded stars. Additionally, the ceiling in the marquess’ own bedroom display the planets’ and stars’ alignments at the moment of his birth, which is undoubtedly a sign that, if alive today, he would be that friend who insists upon knowing your birthday and the exact time you were born in order to analyse your astrological birth chart at parties. heritagexplore.com

↓ France at Waddesdon Manor, Buckinghamshire

While Boughton and Petworth Houses may be crowned ‘The English Versailles’, it’s Waddesdon Manor that truly o ers the gilded opulence of France’s ancien régime. Built by Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild in 1874 and 1875, it was a way for the Rothschilds to show their wealth and establish a sense of familial heritage via the use of pieces from the French royal family.

While the exterior was built to look like a French Renaissance château, the public quarters of the interiors were primarily made to feel like the 18th century, with its gilded panels, Savonnerie carpets, and its mirrored dining room (a not-so-subtle nod to Versailles).

Pieces by royal ébéniste JeanHenri Riesener like a writing table that belonged to Marie Antoinette, a chest of drawers made for Louis XVI’s sister Madame Élisabeth, and a roll-top desk made for his brother, the comte de Provence, are but a small handful of 18th-century functional works of art on show.

While the furniture at Waddesdon is nothing short of breathtaking, it’s the worldrenowned collection of Sèvres porcelain that steals the show – including three of the ten ship vases known in existence. nationaltrust.org.uk ■

Bailiffscourt

Hotel

& Spa

Climping, West Sussex

A short stroll from the coast at Climping (about halfway between Arundel and Chichester), Baili scourt is a gorgeous medieval-style house created by Walter Guinness, later Lord Moyne, and his wife Evelyn. Their home became a hotel, with 39 bedrooms spread across several houses and cottages in private parkland. The more contemporary, in the Moat House and The Oaks, stand beside the old moat, overlooking the elds beyond. The more traditional feel charmingly authentic; some have four-poster beds and interconnecting sitting rooms, as well as tapestries, original oak chests and Knole sofas. Guests are encouraged to roam and explore the grounds (be sure to meander to the beach), plus there’s an airy spa, with indoor and outdoor pools. The pretty courtyard and rose garden are the ideal spots for sipping wine, produced by a local vineyard, or for a ernoon tea in the sunshine. The restaurant has menus for every occasion, from snacks to a light dinner. The name Baili scourt recalls the monk who was sent over by the Abbess of Séez in Normandy to act as baili and watch over the 13th century chapel, which is now licensed for weddings.

Doubles from £345 +44 (0)1903 723511; hshotels.co.uk

Ashford Castle

Cong, County Mayo

Once home to the Guinness family, this magni cent, 800-year-old castle on the shores of Lough Corrib was lovingly restored by Red Carnation Hotels a decade ago, reopening under the family-owned brand in 2015. A spoton combination of grandeur with warmth, it’s the type of place that works for everyone. The 83 opulent rooms and suites feel warm and inviting, lled with antiques, rich fabrics and Murano chandeliers. The hotel is deeply rooted in its community and home-grown touches are evident throughout, showcasing local cra speople, food producers, musicians and artists. Evenings bring a sense of occasion: choose the George V Dining Room for theatrical tableside service, or enjoy Josper-grilled dishes in The Dungeon. Days are wonderfully varied, from falconry and horse riding to lake cruising, golf and hidden wine tastings. If the weather turns, the award-winning spa o ers a more restorative pace, with products from fabulous brands including Natura Bissé, Augustinus Bader and Voya. To top it o , the superb sta – many of whom have been here for decades – genuinely care and know what you need before you do.

Doubles from €545 +353 (0)94 954 6003; ashfordcastle.com

The Barnsdale

Oakham, Rutland

Converted from a centuries-old hunting lodge in 1990, The Barnsdale features 46 individually decorated bedrooms and stunning countryside views. Original features – including agstone hallways, sash windows and cast-iron stoves – add to its character. In 2022, the hotel, located on the Exton Estate in picturesque Rutland, became the latest addition to The Signet Collection, which also owns The Mitre, Hampton Court, The Retreat at Elcot Park and The Alfriston in the South Downs. The quality of the rooms, food, and location are superb. The restaurant focuses on locally sourced ingredients and as well as the elegant 1760 Brasserie and four private dining spaces, The Rod Room and The Orangery are lovely for a relaxing co ee or excellent a ernoon tea. The spa o ers wonderful restorative treatments, from results-driven facials to bespoke massages using delicious Bramley products. An enticing outdoor heated pool and wood red hot tubs have a beautiful backdrop, with highland cattle grazing in the elds. Nearby, the picturesque towns of Oakham, Uppingham, and Stamford are great for shopping. Dogs are welcome too.

Doubles from £105

+44 (0)1572 724678; barnsdalerutland.com

Ballynahinch Castle Hotel

Recess, County Galway

Set at the foot of the Twelve Bens on the Wild Atlantic Way, Ballynahinch Castle has a history as colourful as its stunning riverside setting. Surrounded by 700 acres of rugged Connemara landscape, this Relais & Châteaux hotel captivates its many returning guests. It even enchanted Seamus Heaney, who wrote his poem Ballynahinch Lake while staying here. The spacious, comfortable bedrooms are decorated with elegant oral wallpaper and artworks; some also feature modern four-poster beds (superior rooms can be set up with an extra bed or cot so are best for families). The big draw here is the superb catch-and-release salmon shing (the atmospheric, wood-panelled pub is full of memorabilia and has a famous set of weighing scales). In the ne dining restaurant, the best tables overlook the Owenmore River. The kitchen and estate team work closely together on the seasonal menu, which champions local produce and features ingredients plucked straight from the hotel’s walled garden. It’s part of the sustainable ethos that is threaded throughout, which also includes reducing water usage and energy, and restoring native plant habitats.

Doubles from €325 +353 (0)953 1006; ballynahinch-castle.com

Bishopstrow Hotel & Spa

Warminster, Wiltshire

Original period features and contemporary design combine at this honey-hued Georgian hotel set on a 30acre estate near Warminster. Among the vast grounds is a no-dig kitchen garden, which provides The Garden Grill restaurant with much of its produce, and an 18th-century walled garden with a summerhouse. This summer marks the unveiling of a reimagined spa: a holistic wellness haven designed to restore and revive. Expect outdoor pools, sauna, invigorating cold plunges, and open-air studio cabanas for tness sessions. Treatments draw on local botanicals and estate-grown herbs, while experiences like forest bathing connect you with the surrounding landscape. Rooms come with sweeping countryside views, specially commissioned artworks, and splashes of bright, bold colour (in striped wallpaper, say, or a mustard bedhead); some also have a hot tub on the terrace. Sta can arrange all kinds of activities, from gin tasting to clay pigeon shooting, while attractions such as Longleat, Stourhead and Stonehenge are all within an hour’s drive. The River Wylye runs alongside too, perfect for trout shing and spotting elusive king shers.

Doubles from £210

+44 (0)1985 804680; bishopstrowhotel.com

Beaverbrook

Leatherhead, Surrey

Beaverbrook is a magni cent, must-visit country house hotel. We’ve been, we’ve stayed, we’ve played, and it’s fabulous. The former mansion of Lord Beaverbrook has weekenders falling over themselves to revel in the 19th-century architecture and Susie Atkinson interiors: grand yet homely, romantic and fun, and underpinned by historical photographs of the newspaper magnate and visitors like Elizabeth Taylor and Winston Churchill. There’s Japanese cuisine in The Dining Room, stunning views of the formal gardens, a 470-acre woodland estate with a treehouse, and a kids’ club. The separate brick and int Garden House, with interiors by Nicola Harding, o ers a bar, an informal Anglo-Italian restaurant, and 11 bedrooms. The Coach House suites are perfect for families, as is The Village, a cluster of colourful rooms on the site of the original workers’ cottages that have their own Mrs Beeton’s Restaurant. Don’t miss the spa at The Coach House, adorned with stained glass by artist Brian Clarke, which o ers an array of transformative wellness experiences and a beautiful outdoor pool. All this so close to London, in the heart of the Surrey Hills.

Doubles from £550 +44 (0)1372 571300; beaverbrook.co.uk

Boringdon Hall

Plymouth, Devon

From the classic four-poster rooms to The Great Hall with its oak-panelled walls, ornate carvings, tapestries and King James I coat of arms above the replace, the sense of history at this manor house spa hotel is palpable. It was even mentioned in the Domesday Book . Yet what makes Boringdon Hall special is the seamless interweaving of the modern, too. Housed in the newest wing are the wellness suites, which each come with an outdoor bath and are positioned closest to the adults-only GAIA Spa. It’s a serious set-up, with everything from alfresco hot tubs and a relaxation room overlooking the wild ower meadow to a Finnish sauna and treatments such as GAIA Raindrop therapy and a jade facial. Then there’s the Michelin-starred Àclèaf restaurant, led by head chef Scott Paton, whose signature seven-course tasting menu is rooted in heritage avours; the informal May ower Brasserie; and a drink o ering that includes the hotel’s own gin, distilled in the grounds. The showstopper, though, is the three-level Royal Suite: set within the original turret, it has a dining area and a hot tub on the terrace with uninterrupted views across Dartmoor.

Doubles from £180; +44 (0)1752 344455; boringdonhall.co.uk

Careys Manor Hotel & SenSpa

Brockenhurst, Hampshire

When life’s cares start to pile up, escape to this New Forest bolthole for a weekend of spoiling and relaxation – it’ll be just the ticket. The spa hotel occupies a striking, red-brick Victorian manor in neat gardens on the outskirts of Brockenhurst. With oak-panelled walls and an open re in reception, it feels inviting as soon as you step through the door. Rooms in the main house combine modern amenities with traditional country house style (the best have four-poster beds). Garden rooms are more contemporary, and each comes with a terrace or balcony – ideal for soaking up the sun alongside your morning co ee. But what really makes Careys Manor stand out is its award-winning SenSpa, which has a variety of saunas, pools and treatment rooms. You’ll be pampered with an extensive range of treatments, from a traditional Thai massage to a gentle mud wrap, aquatic bodywork and thorough detox. As for food, there are three great options: Cambium, re ned yet laid-back and celebrating all that is best about seasonal New Forest produce; Zen Garden, serving delicious, authentic Thai favourites and street food; and informal French bar and bistro, Le Blaireau.

Doubles from £200

+44 (0)1590 624467; careysmanor.com

Bovey Castle

Dartmoor National Park, Devon

Part of the Eden Hotel Collection, Bovey Castle was rst opened as a hotel and golf resort in 1930 by Great Western Railways. The hotel is set in 275 acres of Devon countryside, surrounded by Dartmoor National Park; choose from cosy, elegant rooms in the historic manor house or private mews across the courtyard. There are also three-storey self-catering, dog-friendly lodges in the grounds, which are ideal for families (the lodges come with fully equipped kitchens and housekeeping). During the day, watch a complimentary falconry display, collect eggs from the estate’s chickens or book in for a massage at the Elan Spa. The hotel has also planted a new wild ower meadow to explore (book the beekeeping experience). Executive head chef Mark Budd uses fresh ingredients from the huge kitchen garden to create seasonal menus for one-AA rosette Smith’s Brasserie (in the summer, sit on the outdoor terrace that overlooks the River Bovey) and three-AA rosette Great Western Grill. There are activities to suit everyone, from golf and archery to o -road driving, y shing and cider making; parents will love the action-packed family timetable.

Doubles from £280 (based on a castle room) +44 (0)1647 445000; boveycastle.com

Calcot & Spa

Tetbury, Gloucestershire

Set in 220 acres of rewilded Cotswolds countryside, Calcot Manor o ers timeless architecture and pure Cotswolds charm. Today, the house is the agship of the Calcot Collection, which also includes Lord Crewe Arms (p171) and The Painswick (p127). There are 37 thoughtfully decorated, cream-hued rooms: those in the main house are designed with couples in mind, while family rooms and suites occupy converted cottages and barns. There are also deluxe suites featuring private gardens. Opening this June are two luxury treehouses, where guests can fully immerse in nature with a front-row seat to the surrounding ora and fauna. For those visiting with wellness in mind, head to Grain Store, a gym and tness sanctuary. Meanwhile, the Ofsted-registered crèche o ers four hours of childcare – ideal for parents wishing to unwind in the award-winning, sumptuous spa. And don’t miss the brand-new Recovery Garden, where you can indulge in contrast therapy with an infrared sauna and cold plunge baths. Savour imaginative seasonal dishes in The Brasserie restaurant or linger in The Hive café, which transforms into a lively cocktail bar by night.

Doubles from £442; +44 (0)1666 890391; calcot.co

Culloden Estate and Spa

Holywood, Belfast

Grounded on the forested shores of Belfast Lough, the majestic Culloden Estate and Spa is located just outside the capital. Built as the o cial palace for the Bishops of Down in the 18th century, this ve-star hotel is a step away from the noise of the outside world, with beautifully secluded gardens, a palatial spa, restaurant and traditional pub, blending historic grandeur and modern luxury. The 98 bedrooms and suites are matched with breathtaking views, coupled with a King Koil ‘cloud bed’, luxurious linen and wonderful attention to detail. Across the estate, the culinary o erings are equally impressive, bringing together the best local produce Northern Ireland has to o er. The two-AA rosette Vespers Restaurant serves exquisite ne dining, while the Cultra Inn is a traditional pub and bistro, providing a more relaxed setting with a locally sourced seasonal menu. Plus, their famous a ernoon tea is superb. The award-winning spa should not be missed, with restorative ESPA treatments, fusing advanced techniques with traditional therapies. There’s also a eucalyptus steamroom, Jacuzzi, swimming pool, and tylarium with views over the Lough.

Doubles from £270

+44 (0)28 9042 1066; cullodenestateandspa.com

Congham Hall

King’s Lynn, Norfolk

This charming Georgian house is set in 50 acres of Norfolk countryside. Beautifully cared for by owners Nicholas and Ruth Dickinson, it sits just ve minutes’ drive from Sandringham and 20 minutes from the amazing stretches of Norfolk beaches. Inside, a lovely stone oor graces the elegant hall with its grey-green walls, antique furniture, vases of fresh garden owers and sofas in front of the re. To either side is a drawing room and library, and there’s also a bar. The Samphire Kitchen restaurant is airy and relaxed, o ering locally sourced dishes (the hotel has a great kitchen garden). The bedrooms are all impeccable and comfortable, divided between the house (the top- oor rooms are small but lovely), the garden wing and ve orchard cabins, with outside baths among the trees. The house rooms are cool and classical in style – havens in which to unwind. A ernoon tea is a delight; follow it with a swim in the indoor pool or explore the 30 acres of gardens and woodland, which are among the best in England. Just don’t miss The Secret Garden Spa, o ering fabulous treatments in partnership with Elemental Herbology.

Doubles from £239 +44 (0)1485 600250; conghamhallhotel.co.uk

Dormy House

Broadway, Worcestershire

Standing proud on the 500-acre Farncombe Estate is Dormy House. Overlooking the picture-postcard village of Broadway, this 17th-century farmhouse turned boutique retreat boasts cosy corners, open replaces and agstone oors. Its 39 Cotswold-chic bedrooms and suites are the exemplar of quintessential country living with a touch of Scandinavian style. Dormy House is also home to an award-winning spa, o ering utter relaxation in the form of thermal suites, a Himalayan salt sauna, a snow shower and an outdoor reside hot tub. At MO, the 12-seat chef’s table experience, chefs and a sommelier guide diners through eight innovative courses. There’s also Back Garden, o ering a seasonal menu of local, high-welfare meat and responsibly cultivated veg plus a ernoon tea Friday to Sunday; The Shed makes the perfect retreat for a nightcap. You’re free to explore the beautiful Farncombe Estate, or a short drive takes you to the village of Broadway with its exquisite houses, regal inns, manicured lawns and art galleries. For spectacular views of the surrounding countryside, a short hike will take you to Broadway Tower, an 18th-century folly.

Doubles from £495

+44 (0)1386 852711; dormyhouse.co.uk

The Devonshire Arms

Skipton, Yorkshire

Perfectly positioned at the gateway to the Yorkshire Dales, The Devonshire Arms blends comfort, character, and e ortless rural charm. Its 40 bedrooms are thoughtfully designed for relaxation — whether you prefer the cosy, period feel of the original wing, overlooking the Italian gardens, or the contemporary styling of the rooms with gorgeous views beyond. Across the way, the spa is tucked inside an ancient stone barn, with Temple Spa treatments, vitality pool, steam, rasul chamber and sauna facilities on o er. It’s a peaceful retreat a er a day exploring the surrounding countryside. Dining is a key experience here. Executive chef Adam Harper showcases the best of each season, drawing on ingredients from the estate and trusted local producers. The Garden Room o ers relaxed, all-day dining. For something heartier, The Brasserie brings a comforting take on British classics. With charming villages nearby including Burnsall and Appletreewick — and the dramatic landscapes of Malham and Grassington only a short drive — the estate is brilliantly placed for both adventure and scenic wandering.

Doubles from £199 +44 (0)1756 718100; thedevonshirearms.co.uk

The Grove

Chandler’s Cross, Hertfordshire

Set in 300 acres of Hertfordshire countryside, The Grove is just 20 minutes from London. Lovingly restored, this former home of the earls of Clarendon now hosts 214 rooms, divided between the historic, 18th-century mansion and the contemporary West Wing. There are also two delightful new self-contained cottages. A short stroll from the main house is Sequoia Spa, with a statement pool, jacuzzi and 18 treatment rooms. Beyond that, there’s a championship golf course and brand-new custom tting experience in partnership with TaylorMade to elevate your game. The grounds o er all manner of activities, including mini Land Rovers, hawking and axe throwing, plus summer sport camps. The Grove’s hidden gem in warmer months is its enchanting walled garden: here, nd Ralph’s Beach (sand, deckchairs, buckets and spades), a heated outdoor pool and Jemima’s Kitchen Garden, which provides produce for the chefs. When it comes to food, guests are spoilt for choice. Pick from an around-the-world feast at The Glasshouse, British favourites at The Stables, Turkish restaurant Skewd, or an Indian banquet at Madhu’s.

Doubles from £485

+44 (0)1923 807807; thegrove.co.uk

Ellenborough Park

Cheltenham, Gloucestershire

Ellenborough Park sits within 90 acres of grounds, just moments from Cheltenham Racecourse. The beautifully restored 15th-century manor house was once home to the Earl of Ellenborough, who was also governor general of India in the 1840s (the in uence of his travels is visible in the Great Hall and Minstrels’ Gallery). Today, it has been elevated to contemporary glory: the rooms, suites and self-catering hideaway, The Lodge, all have country house character (antique furniture, rich fabrics, rolltop baths). As well as an outdoor heated pool, the Spa Garden Retreat has a hot tub, sauna and ice bath. Treatments include a Japanese head spa, launched last year, which blends scalp therapy with restorative massage techniques. From fresh seasonal produce to an inviting atmosphere, there is a dining experience to suit everyone (including a milkshake bar). Spring and summer see al fresco eating and drinking in quirky dining carriages on the south lawn and Taittinger Terrace, where guests can enjoy a glass of Champagne from the converted horse box trailer bar while watching the sunset. Plus, it’s worth noting that under ves stay and dine for free.

Doubles from £269 +44 (0)1242 545454; ellenboroughpark.com

Homewood Hotel & Spa

Near Bath, Somerset

Playful, eclectic and unapologetically luxurious, this grand Georgian country house is surrounded by 20 acres of magni cent gardens and grounds. It stands above the village of Freshford, with its picturesque viaduct and a train line that runs to Bath. Channelling the Romans’ air for indulgence, Homewood (sister to Bishopstrow in Wiltshire, p68) is a sanctuary of laid-back pampering. Dri between treatments, an indoor hydrotherapy pool, a sauna and a steam room before slipping into the outdoor vitality pool for a breath of fresh country air. The 21 main house rooms have oodles of character and great views across the Avon Valley. Each is quirky, colourful and refreshingly individual: think statement artworks and twinkling chandeliers. There are another ten rooms and suites in Mallingford Mews, some with private terraces and hot tubs which make the most of the rural views. At the Olio restaurant, things are just as vibrant. Somerset produce and vegetables from the hotel’s own ten-acre, no-dig kitchen garden meet Mediterranean avours. Dine inside, on the outdoor terrace, or lean into one of the ever-evolving seasonal experiences.

Doubles from £295

+44 (0)1225 580439; homewoodbath.co.uk

Headlam Hall

County Durham

The Robinson family are exemplary hoteliers, having created not only the quintessential English pub at The Rose & Crown Romaldkirk, but also the archetypal country house hotel at Headlam Hall, located between Barnard Castle and Scotch Corner. Set in a 17th-century pale stone building, the hall boasts walled gardens where guests can play tennis and croquet or simply admire immaculate lawns and scented rose borders. From the Orangery to the cosy Library bar, the dining options feel endless. And the food is delicious – unsurprisingly so, as the kitchen sources its ingredients freshly from the estate’s gardens. Inside, the 38 bedrooms and suites are exquisitely proportioned spaces, featuring wood panelling and elegant, comfortable furnishings, including dog-friendly accommodation. There’s also a stylish self-catering apartment – replete with hot tub. You can enjoy the challenging nine-hole golf course and the fabulous spa which includes a pool, sauna and steam room plus a stunning new outdoor hydrotherapy spa and sun terrace. The best part? Classic cars are available for residents to hire on site during the summer months.

Doubles from £180 +44 (0)1325 730238; headlamhall.co.uk

Lime Wood

Lyndhurst, Hampshire

It’s all about attention to detail at this sumptuous New Forest hideaway. Oak doors are thick, paint nishes fresh, and oor lights switch on as you walk into the bathroom from your individually decorated bedroom (there are 33 across the main house and the grounds). In the Herb House Spa, ayurvedic treatments sit alongside bespoke therapies from brands such as Bamford and Ground Wellbeing. Enjoy yoga on the roo op herb garden, take in forest views from the sauna, and do laps in the indoor hydropool. A erwards, pop into Raw & Cured for nourishing, Mediterranean-inspired dishes. There’s also a nature-inspired series of retreats, events and workshops called Re-Root at Lime Wood, and guided forest walks with the hotel’s forager, Sammie. The main house is home to Hartnett Holder & Co, the brilliant restaurant partnership between Angela Hartnett and Luke Holder, which serves Italian-in uenced dishes using the best local ingredients. The glamour is there, but the sti ness of formal dining has been swept away. It’s how we want to live today – and Lime Wood perfectly captures the laid-back luxury mood.

Doubles from £495

+44 (0)23 8028 7177; limewoodhotel.co.uk

Lainston House Winchester, Hampshire

This gorgeous Queen Anne house sits in 63 acres of Hampshire countryside, just moments from Winchester. Country adventure and food experiences are at the heart of this estate, which is part of Exclusive Collection, the UK’s rst B Corp certi ed hotel group. The Avenue, named a er the long stretch of lime trees leading up to the house, is where MasterChef: The Professionals champion Tom Hamblet heads up the menu. Book the chef’s table experience for a front-row seat as you tuck into the tasting menu. Then there’s The Wellhouse, housed in an original listed well house building, where everything from beef cheek to black pudding croquettes is smoked or cooked over a wood re. Season, the estate’s cookery school, o ers classes such as stock-making and knife skills, plus outdoor sessions on Big Green Egg barbecues and Gozney pizza ovens. Join a seasonal kitchen garden tour, indulge in a ernoon tea and relax in The Cedar Bar a er a country cycle, walk or y shing in the Test Valley. At the end of the day, traditional rooms or suites await – some with avenue views, some dogfriendly, and others featuring a hot tub.

Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1962 776088; exclusive-co.uk

Lucknam Park, Emblems Collection

Colerne, Wiltshire

Surrounded by 500 acres of listed parkland, Lucknam Park occupies a mellow 17th-century mansion with gracious reception rooms and stylish bedrooms (antique furniture, marble bathrooms) in the house and former stables. It’s impeccably run, with attentive yet discreet service. The magni cent drawing room and charming library are the place for pre-dinner drinks. Then, tuck into Hywel Jones’ exceptional Michelin-starred cooking in his eponymous formal restaurant. Jones has held his star for over 20 consecutive years, and sources seasonal avours from the hotel grounds. Or choose the cool, contemporary Walled Garden Restaurant. Then there’s the spa, which includes a sleek indoor and outdoor pool, a sauna, salt room and eight treatment rooms for rejuvenating massages and facials using brands such as 111Skin and Kloris. For your own slice of the estate, book one of the chic cottages. There’s also an arboretum for picnics, the front lawn for croquet, and two tennis courts. Activities range from a garden tour to country pursuits – plus there’s an impressive equestrian centre and excellent facilities for children.

Doubles from £384, cottages from £1,200 +44 (0)1225 742777; lucknampark.co.uk

Linthwaite House

Windermere, Cumbria

Linthwaite House embodies the perfect Lake District hotel: understated and elegant, yet warmly welcoming and relaxing. The views over Lake Windermere, especially with the sun slanting across the water, are simply unbeatable. The country-chic rooms o er the last word in lakeside luxury; for a back-to-nature experience, there’s a secluded tarn with a private cabin and six contemporary suites among the wooded grounds (the best come with an enclosed verandah and hot tub). Inside, a crackling re welcomes guests in the hall, which leads to the bar and light- lled conservatory (nab a seat on the terrace, which faces the Coniston Fells). The inspired all-day dining menus range from lobster rolls to a ernoon tea. For a more re ned dining experience, visit Henrock, overseen by multi-Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan, who sources the freshest Cumbrian ingredients from his regenerative farm in the Cartmel Valley. Linthwaite also o ers an array of activities, from croquet and outdoor chess to cycling and rowing. With wedding, events, and conferencing facilities, as well as a dog-friendly policy, this hotel ticks all the boxes.

Doubles from £270 +44 (0)1539 488600; leeucollection.com/uk

The Manor House

Castle Combe, Wiltshire

Set in the 12th-century Cotswolds village of Castle Combe, this honey-hued countryside manor is part of Exclusive Collection, the rst UK hotel group to become B Corp certi ed. It o ers an idyllic escape – from the riverside drive to a wander around the Italian gardens, croquet on the lawns, and curling up with a book in one of the nooks or lounges. Choose between traditional rooms in the manor house, a room in the nearby mews cottages, or one of the lavish suites dotted between the two (some have a hot tub, terrace or private garden). On the estate’s 365 acres, there’s an 18-hole, par-72 championship golf course, with tree-lined fairways, natural undulation and spectacular Wiltshire views. Meanwhile, The Castle Inn pub, in the heart of the village, is perfect for an a ernoon pint or bite to eat from the two-AA rosette menu. Grab a walking map and some Le Chameau wellies from reception to work up an appetite for Michelin-starred restaurant Bybrook. Here, chef Robert Potter creates seasonal dishes to savour within exquisite tasting menus. Before retiring to bed, don’t miss a nightcap in the hotel’s Time Bar, with a choice of over 100 gins.

Doubles from £246

+44 (0)1249 782206; exclusive.co.uk

Mallory Court Country House Hotel & Spa

Leamington Spa, Warwickshire

Part of the Eden Hotel Collection, Mallory Court is a country house pad that has it all: rolling countryside, good food, a ne spa and gorgeous bedrooms. One of the country’s greatest landmarks, Warwick Castle, is just down the road and Stratford-upon-Avon is only 14 miles away. The Grade II-listed, Lutyens-style house, completed in 1916, is charming, with wood panelling, leaded windows, and a terrace overlooking landscaped gardens. In contrast, Orchard House – tucked among the trees in the glorious ten-acre grounds – houses the sparkling Elan Spa, which o ers blissful treatments using Gaia and Templespa products alongside an outdoor vitality pool, sauna and Technogym equipment. On the rst oor are 12 sleek bedrooms; choose between these and the more classic rooms in the main house. Food is a highlight, headed up by Stuart Deeley, former winner of MasterChef: The Professionals. New restaurant The Warwick o ers bold seasonal avours and the best local produce (much grown in the kitchen gardens), while Sencha serves a fabulous Asian menu. The hotel also does a superb a ernoon tea and Sunday lunch.

Doubles from £230 (based on a classic room)

+44 (0)1926 330214; mallory.co.uk

The Montagu Arms

Beaulieu, Hampshire

Combining all the attributes of a traditional country house hotel – roaring log res, pretty gardens and comfortable bedrooms – with a picturesque village setting, The Montagu Arms makes an ideal base for a relaxing break. Browse Beaulieu’s high street, take a riverside walk to Buckler’s Hard or explore the New Forest. Back in the hotel you’ll nd a dark oak hall that contrasts with the cream-panelled sitting room, leading in turn to a sunny conservatory. The 33 bedrooms stay true to the hotel’s heritage while layering contemporary colour schemes and designer fabrics. There are a trio of distinct dining experiences: casual pub Monty’s for hearty classics; alfresco light lunches in the lounge and ower- lled garden; and forest-to-fork dining at The Terrace where the best produce, from the New Forest and homegrown in the hotel grounds, is used to create modern, re ned cuisine that takes local provenance seriously. Dishes, such as roast south coast hake with seaweed crushed potatoes, are familiar favourites, but always with a taste of the unexpected. Both children and dogs are welcome, making it a great choice for families.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1590 612324; montaguarmshotel.co.uk

Matfen Hall

Matfen, Northumberland

Set in 300 acres of peaceful parkland, Matfen Hall pairs Grade II-listed grandeur with ve-star comfort. Rooms are a perfect harmony of tradition and contemporary elegance, with high ceilings, twinkling chandeliers and uninterrupted estate views. For ultimate indulgence, opt for a luxury suite, complete with an emperor bed, antique furniture and a roll-top bath. With chau eur transfer included within a 20-mile radius, arrive in style to chocolates, local gin and seasonal owers. When it comes to dining, guests are spoilt for choice. Awardwinning Emerald Restaurant is an opulent showstopper, with crackling res and seasonal table d’hôte menus focused on locally sourced ingredients. The Keepers is a relaxed spot for classic dishes, and in the historic courtyard is grill restaurant Cloisters – choose a table on the mezzanine for views of the Great Hall’s magni cent stained glass window. Spend your days on top-rated golf courses, unwinding in the spa’s glass-roofed pool and thermal suite, or exploring must-see sights like Hadrian’s Wall. As night falls, settle into the 1832 bar for a chilled aperitif as the sun sets on the Northumbrian hills.

Doubles from £350 +44 (0)1661 886500; matfenhall.com

The PIG – At Bridge Place

Canterbury, Kent

Every PIG hotel in this magni cent litter has its very own personality – and this one, on the leafy outskirts of Canterbury, has a rock-’n’-roll vibe that’s immediately evident. The 31-bedroom, Grade II*-listed Queen Anne manor house is set in the Nailbourne valley, part of the Kent Downs. It sports a handsome red-brick façade, ornate Jacobean interior and a colourful recent past. The likes of Led Zeppelin, Eric Clapton and Pink Floyd have all gigged here, and now it’s your turn to have a ball among a wealth of period features, secret stairways, and endless nooks and crannies. As with every other PIG, the kitchen garden and heritage glasshouses – reached via a bridge and surrounded by water meadows, trees and tranquil paths – and the restaurant are the beating heart of this revitalised property. The Potting Sheds also o er rejuvenating treatments, from bespoke massages to brightening facials, using natural products from Tribe 517. If you’ve pigged out on the others, this delightful locale (just an hour by train from central London) should be next on your list: you’ll be seduced, charmed and ready to party, all at the same time.

Doubles from £225

+44 (0)345 225 9494; thepighotel.com

Pennyhill Park

Bagshot, Surrey

A place to indulge in the best, Pennyhill Park is a 19thcentury, ivy-clad mansion house surrounded by 120 acres. Renowned as one of Surrey’s top spa hotels, it is part of Exclusive Collection, the rst UK hotel group to become B Corp certi ed. The spa tempts guests with exceptional water therapy, including an outdoor hydrotherapy pool with massage jets, a revitalising cold-water plunge, and an indoor pool complete with underwater music for a dose of zen. Make time for a self-guided contrast therapy circuit in the vast thermal spaces with an array of hot tubs, saunas, steam rooms and laconiums – perfectly paired with the Hot and Cold wellbeing treatment. When it’s time to dine, head to the relaxed, farm-to-fork Hill eld, where the ingredients are sourced locally and from the estate. Alternatively, let chef Steve Smith guide you through a tasting menu journey at Michelin-starred Latymer, set in the oldest and most charming part of the house. Rooms and suites are individually designed, and many have stand-out features such as a double bath, four-poster bed or private terrace –and there are even ones with a sauna or Jacuzzi.

Doubles from £321 +44 (0)1276 478300; exclusive.co.uk

The PIG

Brockenhurst, Hampshire

Many hotels boast kitchen gardens, but few are as central to operations as that of The PIG in the New Forest. Here, the garden is an imaginative edible paradise from which the chefs source much of their daily produce, the rest coming from within a 25-mile radius. This local and seasonal food-centric ideal is the inspiration for the original concept of The PIG and its subsequent litter of hotels in the Home Grown Hotels sty, founded by British hotelier Robin Hutson in 2011. Here at Brockenhurst, a handsome Georgian shooting lodge stands in a clearing in the New Forest, with walking and foraging on o er. There’s a wonderful Victorian-style conservatory dining room, glamorous bar and outdoor courtyard for summer. Calm, countri ed and deeply comfortable, the hotel’s seductive, shabby-chic aesthetic comes in a palette of so greens and chalky greys. Bedrooms include rustic, romantic lodges tucked away in the woods. The walled garden leads to a lovely lily pond and wooden Potting Shed treatment rooms in quiet corners of the grounds for hot stone massages and brightening facials, all designed to restore balance. Oh, and there really are pigs, too.

Doubles from £345; +44 (0)1590 622354; thepighotel.com

The PIG – In The Cotswolds

Barnsley, Gloucestershire

Part of The PIG litter, this honey-hued 17th-century, Grade II-listed gem sits in the Cotswolds village of Barnsley, four miles from Cirencester. Spread across the main house, the honey-stone Stableyard house and the gardens, the 26 bedrooms are all wonderfully eclectic, with rich fabrics, super comfy beds, reclaimed textures and roll-top baths. One of the big draws here is the ornamental Arts and Cra s-style gardens by the late celebrated landscape designer Rosemary Verey, complete with a laburnum walk and Tuscan temple. The food is fantastic, with a ‘25-mile’ menu featuring dishes using produce from the kitchen garden and fresh ingredients from small local producers. If you can tear yourself away, go in search of the Fieldhouse under the trees. It’s the only full spa among The PIGs (the rest have Potting Shed treatment rooms), and it comprises a sauna, steam room, outdoor heated hydrotherapy pool and terrace for quiet, re ective moments between dips and massages. The Village Pub – another PIG triumph – is just across the lane and the cobbled-street towns of Burford, Bourtonon-the-Water and Bibury are a stone’s throw away.

Doubles from £415

+44 (0)345 225 9494; thepighotel.com

The PIG – At Combe

Gittisham, Devon

As you approach this Grade I-listed Elizabethan manor down the mile-long drive surrounded by meadows, it slips tantalisingly in and out of sight, building a sense of romance that’s utterly ful lled on arrival. Its latest iteration as a PIG destination is brimful of life, bonhomie and stylish informality. With the main bar installed in the historic grand hall, the fun starts the moment you walk in. There’s a wonderful, double-aspect conservatory restaurant with bare wood oors, restored shutters and incredible views; cosy snugs with roaring res; a bar with a wood- red oven in the derelict-chic Folly; huge, ra ered bedrooms in the attic; an atmospheric private dining room in the original Georgian kitchen; and so much more. Within the trio of walled kitchen gardens (the epicentre of all PIG hotels, where much of the produce for their renowned ‘25-mile’ menus is grown) stands two Potting Shed treatment rooms, beyond which stretches 3,500 acres of Devonshire countryside. Close by are the wide open spaces of Dartmoor and the World Heritage Jurassic Coast to explore at your leisure. Just like all the other PIGs, this is a total joy of a hotel.

Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1404 540400; thepighotel.com

The PIG – Near Bath

Pensford, Somerset

This may be just one of several rural-themed PIG hotels, but its launch over a decade ago broke new ground as a proper, grown-up hotel with all the country house attributes (space, proportions, dreamy views) but none of the drawbacks (staid, formal, eye-wateringly expensive). It’s fun and glamorous without ever losing sight of comfort – and located in the Mendip Hills, it’s just 20 minutes from the city of Bath. Judy Hutson created the look: quirky wallpaper, velvet curtains, oil paintings and chandeliers, plus a wonderfully louche private dining room based on The Rolling Stones’ Beggars Banquet (ragamu ns feasting in a castle). The kitchen garden is the heartbeat of the hotel, with gardeners and chefs working hand in hand to create plates brimming with seasonal avours. What can’t be grown on-site is sourced from the best local farmers, shermen and foragers – the foundation of The PIG’s signature ‘25-mile’ menu. The kitchen garden is also where you’ll nd the two homely Potting Shed treatment rooms for massages and facials. And keep an eye out for dishes avoured with honey from their own hives – you can even pick up a jar to take home.

Doubles from £330

+44 (0)1929 450288; thepighotel.com

The PIG – In The South Downs

Madehurst, West Sussex

Set within the small hamlet of Madehurst, this PIG, high up on the South Downs in West Sussex, comes complete with its own vineyard. The team has created a haven of rural bliss for this seventh hotel. Only four miles from the market town of Arundel and a short drive to the yachting playground of Chichester, the Georgian house is a brilliant base for exploring – but also for hunkering down. The 30 lovingly restored bedrooms are spread between a higgledy-piggledy collection of traditional brick, int and timber-clad stable yard buildings, together with four Garden Wagon and two Field Wagon private retreats. Each is unique and classically PIG: think indulgent fabrics, reclaimed wood, roll-top baths and locally stocked larders full of goodies. The wagons, tucked away in the walled garden or in the elds, are super cosy with log burners. As at other PIG hotels, you’ll nd peaceful Potting Shed treatment rooms and terri c food, with a ‘25-mile’ menu. It’s simple British fare done well, with a focus on hyper-local and homegrown produce – plus there’s a wide-ranging wine list to be sampled in the bar and large kitchen garden.

Doubles from £330 +44 (0)1234 974500; thepighotel.com

The Tawny

Consall, Staffordshire

Set across a pair of sprawling estates in Sta ordshire’s Churnet valley, The Tawny combines the best bits of a traditional hotel – including a three-AA rosette restaurant – with your own private space. On one estate you’ll nd a collection of shepherd’s huts, treehouses and romantic boathouses, each chic and cosy with superlative views and an outdoor bath. The adjoining parkland has larger serviced properties: The Fledglings, which are perfect for groups (all have a pool; some a games room, sauna or cinema); and – just opened in March – The Owlets, a series of self-catering cottages with access to a communal heated outdoor pool. There’s also a treatment room housed in a quaint thatched cottage. At The Plumicorn restaurant, with its soaring ceiling, teal banquette seating and oor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the lakes, head chef Andrew Watts serves an inspired menu using the best local produce. There’s also a ernoon tea and guests can order a picnic to enjoy in the grounds – 70 acres of undulating landscape, dotted with secluded dells and follies to explore. The Peak District is only a stone’s throw away.

Doubles from £290 +44 (0)1538 787664; thetawny.co.uk

Rockliffe Hall

Darlington, County Durham

Reopening in autumn 2026, Rockli e Hall has been taken to new heights following a multimillion-pound renovation. Set within 375 acres beside the River Tees, the Grade II-listed house has been meticulously restored – and this time, gastronomy is at the heart of the hotel. The new restaurant, ATLAS James & Maria Close (culinary director James Close was formerly chef-patron of two-Michelin-starred The Raby Hunt), serves sublime, globally inspired dishes and has a dedicated Champagne and aperitif lounge. Then there’s the all-day dining space, a cocktail bar, the Morning Room for a ernoon tea, Café Terra, and The Clubhouse. The hotel’s 43 rooms and suites (with 22 more coming next summer) provide the utmost in luxury: picture a palette of creamy neutrals and burnished brass details, with bathrooms featuring oversize showers and baths. Add to that the awardwinning 50,000sq/ spa with 11 treatment rooms, a 20m indoor pool, an outdoor hot tub, a thermal suite and experience showers. There’s also a championship 18-hole golf course, tennis and padel courts, and bike hire. To top it o , the service is genuinely warm and excellent.

Doubles from £550 +44 (0)1325 729999; rockli ehall.com

Thyme

Cotswolds, Gloucestershire

A paradise in the glorious Cotswolds countryside, Thyme o ers botanically inspired bedrooms in a collection of stone houses and cottages. Each is decorated with Bertioli by Thyme fabrics and wallpapers handpainted in-house by founder Caryn Hibbert. Familyrun and with a sustainable ethos, Thyme has thoughtful touches at every corner. The food – overseen by culinary director Charlie Hibbert – is its raison d’être, with rst-class chefs, a highly regarded cookery school and produce from its own farm and kitchen gardens. Eat in The Swan, Thyme’s charming village pub (which dates back to the 17th century), or Ox Barn, a more contemporary space where just-picked ingredients dictate the menus. There’s also Baa Bar in the old lambing sheds, and Orchid House, located next to the springwater swimming pool. Restorative spa treatments take place in Meadow Cottage or the Botanical Bothy (at the latter, the signature ritual includes breathwork, pressure point techniques and a herbal bath). Borrow bicycles or wellies to explore the countryside, sign up for oristry and painting classes, or work up an appetite for dinner with tennis on the estate’s court.

Doubles from £500; +44 (0)1367 850174; thyme.co.uk

City Town&Stays

From north to south, east to west, the UK’s urban spaces are ripe for exploration

We Do Things Differently Here

Manchester’s glossy new chapter is one not defined by comparison to the capital, says Tessa Dunthorne, who finds out what’s behind the buzz

he world’s rst industrial city has always had a knack for reinventing itself. Built on canals and cotton mills, today it’s better known as the hub for British creative industry and broadcast – with only a smack of drizzle to dampen the mood. As Soho House opens its rst northern outpost at 4 Atherton Street and Nobu develops a dizzyingly high new hotel and residences, it appears the city is asserting a glossy new nish, too.

But is it ever nished? ‘I moved here in the early 2000s, and remember noticing how much building was happening here, and thinking, “Oh, this will be great when it’s nished,”’ says John McGrath, artistic director of Factory International. ‘But of course, it’s Manchester – it’ll never be nished. The fact that it’s a crazy work in progress is part of its energy, appeal, and what makes it di erent to more historical cities.’

Manchester’s Luxury Era

At the old Granada Studios – a building that saw the Sex Pistols and the Beatles meander its halls – the new Soho House Manchester has settled into a rhythm familiar to those belonging to its London branches. Atop its roof, you will nd members splashing in the pool and diners tucking into crab fried rice inspired by the Bangkok outpost. But don’t get this wrong: it is not a copy-paste of its southern cousins.

‘It doesn’t feel like a London club transplanted to Manchester as you walk in,’ explains Paris Armani,

the club’s head of membership. ‘The design pays homage to the spirit of 1950s Manchester and the building’s history as a pioneering television studio. There was some healthy scepticism when we opened, but the reception since has been incredibly positive. The majority of our members are locals who have been shaping Manchester’s creative industries for years. It celebrates what’s already happening here.

‘What’s happening in Manchester now is really interesting,’ she continues. ‘The city has always had culture and creativity in abundance, but there’s been a wave of new hospitality, hotels and cultural spaces in recent years. These re ect a city growing in con dence and international pro le.’

Beyond The Shellsuit

Think of Manchester’s fashion and the rst image that comes to mind, no doubt, is the shiny shellsuit (perhaps latterly you’ll think of Liam Gallagher in a parka). But luxury watch brand Audemars Piguet set up shop here last May, and a new Manchester Fashion Week celebrates the city’s stylish streak.

Runway history was of course made when ‘Madchester’ played host to Chanel’s 2023/24 Métiers d’Art fashion show. But luxury investment is not just coming from the outside, with plentiful homegrown talent, too; Nadine Merabi, a designer now just as associated with Mayfair as anywhere else, began her journey here.

‘In recent years, Manchester’s style credentials – which have always been impeccable as a city that likes to dress up – have been reinterpreted through a more modern, luxury lens,’ says Merabi. ‘There’s a much bigger audience wanting to invest in elevated pieces versus purely trend-driven fashion, proving that high-end fashion businesses can thrive here.’

Out For Scran

The city can boast its second Michelin star since 2025, when Tom Barnes’ debut venture Skof scored the award within nine months of opening. The chef patron cut his teeth at some of the UK’s nest restaurants; he was exec chef at L’Enclume when it got its long-awaited third star. Those wanting to eat at Skof face a waiting list that stretches for months.

‘The city has always had culture and creativity in abundance, but there’s been a wave of new hospitality hotels and cultural spaces’

Paris Armani, Soho House Manchester

‘I wouldn’t be surprised to see more Michelin stars [in Manchester] soon,’ says Barnes. ‘The chefs setting up shop here come with global pedigree – the team at Higher Ground, for example. With Nobu bringing a hotel and restaurant here, too… It’s a city that rewards you from investing in it.’

It has long been the relationship that London’s restaurant groups export northwards to Manchester – indeed, the Big Mamma group, behind viral restaurants like Jacuzzi, will be expanding there this year in its rst step beyond the capital. But increasingly the inverse is true, too. FENIX Mayfair, which opened this year, is a Greek ne dining restaurant that began its journey with an M3 postcode, while Brixton’s new open-air dance and dine megalith, Freight, found its groove as Freight Island up north.

Culture Kid

Perhaps infamously, continued Arts Council funding for the English National Opera was contingent on its move up north. A er a hiccup of a bedding-in period (Andy Burnham’s initial greeting to the world-class musical body? ‘If you can’t come willingly, don’t come at all’), its rst fully mounted productions are now well underway. A semi-

staged concert production of Così fan tutte in February set the tone: operas will start life here before making their way to the London Coliseum. But local partnerships will de ne its latest era – Angel’s Bone is made in conjunction with Factory International, at its Aviva Studios, with the production being director Kip Williams’ UK opera debut (‘the hottest director around,’ says McGrath).

McGrath points to the longer-term cementing of institutions. Manchester International Festival, run by Factory International, is quickly approaching its 20th anniversary; HOME arts centre, which was formed from the merger of Cornerhouse and the Library Theatre, opened over a decade ago.

A non-insigni cant amount of the success of the culture buzz is ‘the result of long-term investment and planning’, says McGrath. He notes Aviva’s sponsorship of Factory International’s primary exhibition and performance space, or the Co-op Live arena (which is host to the Brit awards until 2027). ‘Local government and investors have realised that culture is a great way to drive the growth.

‘Then seeing companies like the English National Opera coming to Manchester is a major part of that long-term commitment to making Manchester the place to do culture, and a true international destination.’ ■

100 Princes Street

Edinburgh

Housed in the former headquarters of the Royal OverSeas League, Red Carnation Hotels’ 100 Princes Street blends a discreet, club-like atmosphere with a strong sense of Scottish identity. Overlooking Edinburgh Castle and steps from the National Gallery, the location is exceptional – yet it’s the detail that will stop you in your tracks. Interiors tell a story, from the handpainted mural celebrating Scottish botanists to tartans by local Scottish designer Araminta Campbell. Nautical references are woven through the building in honour of its illustrious history. Bedrooms are elegant and comfortable, while Ghillie’s Pantry o ers private dining with rare whiskies and bespoke menus. At the heart of the hotel, The Wallace provides a relaxed space for dining, drinks and conversation, with dishes centred around seasonal Scottish produce. Just as good is the service – genuinely warm, knowledgeable and quietly attentive. Great for couples and culturally curious travellers, 100 Princes Street o ers a re ned yet welcoming base, with a strong sense of place and understated charm.

Doubles from £415 +44 (0)131 287 3100; 100princes-street.com

1 Hotel Mayfair

Mayfair, London W1

Nature has been brought behind closed doors at 1 Hotel Mayfair, an urban oasis in the heart of the capital. The 181 rooms, thanks to collaboration with artisan makers, are bedecked in sustainably sourced British oak ooring, hand-chiselled stones and reclaimed timber from British estates – and there are over 1,300 plants, shrubs and trees across the hotel. That’s before accounting for the stunning views of London’s skyline. Four signature suites come with a dedicated VIP butler service, while all guests have access to the in-house car, an electric Audi. Then there’s the food. Led by two Michelin-starred chef Tom Sellers, Dovetale serves reimagined European classics, while the Dover Yard bar and lounge shakes up innovative cocktails cra ed with natural ingredients. If you’re rushing o , there’s Neighbour’s café, with healthy grab-and-go snacks, cold-pressed juices and fairtrade co ee. If you’ve got time, unwind at the Bamford Wellness Spa. There’s a wonderful range of treatments, from facials and massages to body scrubs (available insuite, too). Or go for a stroll – Green Park, St James’ Park and Hyde Park are just on your doorstep.

Doubles from £500 +44 (0)20 3988 0055; 1hotels.com

The Bailey’s Hotel London Kensington

South Kensington, London SW7

The excellently located The Bailey’s Hotel London Kensington stands apart thanks to its British-meets-Asian heritage. Opened in 1876 – and celebrating its 150th anniversary – the Victorian grandeur of this Grade II-listed redbrick townhouse sets the scene for stylish rooms with eye-catching interiors. The Signature Suite features a roll-top bath and separate living area; the spacious Luxury Family Suite has two double beds. The Asian in uence is in evidence at The Bugis Singapore Restaurant which o ers authentic Singaporean dishes such as steamed prawn dumplings followed by Malaysian chicken curry and topped o by fresh mango coconut cream. Skilled mixologists conjure up cocktails in The Bailey’s Bar; a sophisticated space with high ceilings, chandeliers and panelled wood, it’s perfect for both a quiet drink with family and friends or a work meeting. Do try The Bailey’s Chocolate Martini – a delicious combination of Baileys, chocolate, vanilla vodka and Tia Maria. Some of the capital’s biggest attractions including The Natural History Museum, the V&A and Hyde Park, are a stone’s throw away.

Doubles from £168; +44 (0)20 7373 6000; millenniumhotels.com

Beaverbrook Town House

Chelsea, London SW1

This sister hotel to Beaverbrook in Surrey (see p68) opened ve years ago in a pair of restored Georgian townhouses and quickly became a not-so-secret Sloane Street hit. The ground oor is all about socialising: kickstart the evening sipping cocktails at art decodetailed Sir Frank’s Bar (named a er Sir Frank Lowe, creative director and curator of the capital-inspired artwork throughout). Then tuck into Japanese food in The Fuji Grill, an elegant dining room adorned with 19th-century woodblock prints. The innovative ‘tapasu’ concept centres around tapas-style small plates, including taco-style temaki and charcoal-grilled wagyu (at lunchtime there’s a bento box option; in the evening, a nine-course omakase experience). The Butter y Room is a private dining room for up to 16 guests, with access to a pretty terrace. Upstairs, Nicola Harding-designed suites (which are named a er London theatres) combine cosy fabrics and printed textiles with modern fourposters, fringed velvet sofas and bold colour palettes. Ask at reception and sta will lend you the key to Cadogan Gardens opposite for peaceful a ernoon meandering.

Doubles from £550

+44 (0)20 3988 6611; beaverbrooktownhouse.co.uk

Batty Langley’s Spitalfields,

London E1

As you walk through the doors of this charming hotel, packed with character and Georgian detail, you feel as if you’re entering another era. In lively Spital elds, Batty Langley’s lives up to its unusual name. Under the same ownership as the equally captivating Hazlitt’s (p102) and The Rookery (p108), the hotel is inspired by the 18th-century architect and landscape gardener of the same name, who published handbooks designed to help inexperienced clients plan their Georgian houses and gardens ‘in the most grand taste’. The panelled interior, with its open res, countless books and oil paintings, feels more like a private house than a hotel. Cocooning their inhabitants in comfort and calm, the 29 bedrooms and suites are furnished with 17th- and 18th-century carved oak beds or four-posters, heavy silk curtains, and bathrooms with restored period ttings. Your most di cult choice, though, will be which of the three warmly decorated sitting rooms to occupy. Our pick is the Tapestry Room, complete with an honesty bar stocked with local spirits and carefully curated wines plus French doors that open onto a pretty courtyard.

Doubles from £429 +44 (0)20 7377 4390; battylangleys.com

The Chancery Rosewood

Mayfair, London W1

One of the hottest, most anticipated hotel openings of 2025, The Chancery Rosewood is housed in the former US embassy on Grosvenor Square. Led by David Chipper eld, the Grade II-listed building’s restoration features suites with oor-to-ceiling windows and design by Joseph Dirand, who has chosen a palette of warm tones punctuated with gold accents that complement the stone façade. Those staying in the signature suites or houses have access to a private butler. The hotel also has ve new restaurants including Serra, Tobi Masa (which marks the London debut of Japanese chef Masayoshi Takayama), and Jacqueline (a tearoom helmed by executive pastry chef Marius Dufay). For cocktails, Eagle Bar on the roo op has a wrap-around terrace and a curated, vinyl- rst music programme. During your stay, don’t forget to visit the subterranean Asaya Spa, home to the Taktouk Clinic (which combines advanced dermatological expertise with a holistic approach), a 25m pool, treatment rooms and a thermal suite.

Doubles from £1,400; +44 (0)20 7889 7000; rosewoodhotels.com

Charlotte Street Hotel

Fitzrovia, London W1

Right in the heart of Fitzrovia, which traces its creative roots back to the Bloomsbury Group, this hotel is part of the inimitable Firmdale collection. Soho is on the doorstep; as are West End theatres and some of the capital’s most happening bars and restaurants. Do be sure to carve out time for eating at the hotel’s restaurant Oscar though: it has an open kitchen, relaxed brasserie vibe, menus ranging from all-day weekend brunch to a ernoon tea, and cocktails – which are best enjoyed on the terrace as the sun shines. The 52 rooms and suites are everything Firmdale fans have come to expect from creative director Kit Kemp’s distinctive modern English style. In other words: a riot of tasteful pattern, colour and texture delivered through striking fabrics, eye-catching headboards and mural wallpapers. In keeping with the cultural surroundings, there are weekend lm club screenings in the intimate cinema; private art walks with Firmdale art ambassador Willow Kemp that take in the hotel’s collection and local galleries; monthly book salons with celebrated authors; and a cocktail menu inspired by the Bloomsbury Group.

Doubles from £510; +44 (0)20 7806 2000; rmdalehotels.com

The Chelsea Harbour Hotel & Spa

Chelsea, London SW10

This urban riverside resort stands as a beacon of luxury on London’s waterfront. The suites and four penthouses each have plush, king-size beds, large living spaces and panoramic views over the Chelsea Harbour marina and the River Thames. The Savile Penthouse is spectacular, with a white marble bathroom and home cinema. Inspired by the age-old trade on the Thames with all the feel of a classic yacht, The Anchor restaurant is a picture of elegance. In the kitchen, executive head chef Rohan Mehta and his team create Mediterranean plates using the freshest local ingredients, including just-caught sh and succulent lobsters. A ernoon tea is also a must, with a tremendous amount of cake, sandwiches and scones. In the bar, enjoy whisky served with a cigar, maritime classic rum punches, and gin and tonics. The spa is the place to unwind: treatments range from nourishing facials and hot stone massages to the Perfect Legs treatment – the ideal tension-buster a er exploring on foot. There is also a 17m indoor swimming pool and a gym. The King’s Road boutiques are only ve minutes’ walk away and the rest of the city is within easy reach.

Suites from £195; +44 (0)20 7823 3000; millenniumhotels.com

Hard Days Night Hotel

Liverpool

The world’s only Beatles-inspired hotel – and fully worthy of The Fab Four. Set in Liverpool’s bustling ‘Beatles Quarter’, the Hard Days Night Hotel sits adjacent to the world-famous Cavern Club where the band rose to fame and is also a stone’s throw from the city’s array of famous Beatles landmarks. Housed in the magni cent Grade II-listed Central Buildings, dating back to 1884, the restored hotel is steeped in history. The Lennon Suite is a fan favourite, with a white baby grand piano and private balcony. Recently refurbished North Sixty4 serves traditional British fare with a contemporary twist, including Penny Lane Fish & Chips and Liverpool Tart with whipped cream and raspberry coulis for dessert. Meanwhile Bar Four has Beatles-inspired cocktails on the drinks menu, accompanied by live music on Fridays and Saturdays. Plentiful artworks decorate this playful hotel, by artist Shannon MacDonald – but that’s not all. Serious memorabilia of The Fab Four can be found here, with artefacts, pictures, books and poems from the likes of Yoko Ono, Pete Best, Stuart Sutcli e, Linda McCartney and, of course, John, Paul, George and Ringo themselves.

Doubles from £88

+44 (0)151 236 1964; millenniumhotels.com

The Egerton House Hotel

Knightsbridge, London SW3

Set on a quiet street in the heart of Knightsbridge, this charming Victorian townhouse is just moments from Harrods and the V&A. Part of the Red Carnation Hotels collection, the 28 rooms and suites have beautiful Savoir beds covered in 200 thread count Belgian linens. Choose one of the deluxe king rooms, with their full-height bay windows and inbuilt Bose music system. Service is naturally personal, shaped by a close-knit team whose warmth and attention to detail is immediately felt. Interiors are layered with art, antiques and rich fabrics, giving the hotel the feel of a luxury private residence. Guests enjoy a special partnership with the V&A, with a beautiful V&A suite in the hotel and complimentary VIP access to exhibitions. Dining is relaxed yet polished, with British classics served in the lounges, alongside an excellent breakfast. The bar, known for its expertly cra ed martinis and convivial atmosphere, is a highlight; for those keen to learn more, book a martini masterclass. Ideal for couples and solo travellers seeking something discreet and full of character, The Egerton House Hotel is a brilliant base tucked away from the bustle of the city.

Doubles from £505 +44 (0)20 7589 2412; egertonhousehotel.com

The Goring

Belgravia, London SW1

Created from the maverick mind of Otto Goring in 1910, The Goring imbues both the splendour and mischief of the pre-war Edwardians. Today, the hotel maintains its original spirit and is richly woven with a particular brand of Britishness. Every detail is a slice of escapism, from the scarlet-red coattails worn by the footmen to the handcra ed Gainsborough silk in the luxurious suites and bedrooms. There are fantastic family rooms: sleeping two adults and up to three children, everything is at hand from cots, bottle warmers and babysitters to books, activities and dressing-up boxes. It’s also within strolling distance of multiple Royal Parks for little ones to let o steam. One of the few family-run hotels that is truly independent, sta welcome guests like age-old friends. Whether stopping for a chat during a ernoon tea or delivering a surprise visit from Teddy the Shetland pony, they exude a delightful, old-fashioned air for service. The recently refreshed Michelin-starred dining room includes a new state-of-the-art kitchen and chef’s table, while the cocktail bar, with its live pianist, is an elegant setting for a post-dinner digestif.

Doubles from £790; +44 (0)20 7396 9000; thegoring.com

The Hari, London

Belgravia, London SW1

Strolling through the leafy streets of Belgravia, one building naturally draws the eye: The Hari. Its striking navy and glass façade, adorned with cascading greenery, o ers a glimpse of the residential retreat within. Inside, 85 newly refurbished rooms – including 14 suites –feature sleek marble bathrooms, skyline views, and contemporary artworks by luminaries such as Tracey Emin and Mario Testino. The hotel champions the arts, hosting an annual £14,000 prize in collaboration with A Space For Art. Sustainability is also a priority and has earned The Hari an EarthCheck Silver Certi cation, the global benchmark in environmental accreditation for travel and tourism. Tucked beneath a canopy of ivy, the garden terrace is a hidden oasis ideal for leisurely, al fresco lunches or cosy dinners. With its retractable roof and heaters, it remains a welcoming spot in any weather. Meanwhile, the intimate yet glamorous Hari Bar is perfect for a cocktail or two before dinner at Italian-inspired Il Pampero. All this just moments from Hyde Park, Buckingham Palace, the Royal Albert Hall, and the city’s most exclusive shopping districts.

Doubles from £540 +44 (0)20 7858 0100; thehari.com

The Grand Hotel Birmingham

Birmingham

Birmingham’s original grande dame has awakened. A er a near 20 year closure, The Grand Hotel reopened in 2021, and, thanks to a £50m makeover, in its former glory. The Grade II-listed Victorian building has hosted rock stars and royalty, and blends original features (mosaictiled oors, soaring ceilings, a grand staircase) with modern luxury. The 185 rooms and suites are elegant, especially the duplex penthouse which features a superking four-poster bed, a marble bathroom with a roll top tub, a private bar, and an open-plan living-dining area. Its bars and restaurants are just as iconic. Madeleine, a glamorous Parisian-chic space with double-height windows and chandeliers, is one of the city’s most recognisable bars, serving cocktails, champagne, and a ernoon tea. Meanwhile, Isaac’s is a brasserie-style restaurant known for elevated British comfort food (think roast lamb rumps and warm duck salads). You’re covered for late-night entertainment, thanks to its speakeasystyle live music bar, Downstairs at The Grand; here you can enjoy a three-course dinner and cabaret. A smart new chapter for a city-centre landmark.

Doubles from £159 +44 (0)121 827 9600; thegrandhotelbirmingham.co.uk

Hayfield Manor

Cork

Sitting on the cusp of Cork’s city centre, Hay eld Manor is the city’s only ve-star hotel. The 87 rooms are some of the nest in Ireland, each blending timeless style with modern comfort. Some have stunning views of the two-acre gardens, others of the urban skyline. All have carefully thought out touches – there’s even in-room golf putters to work on your technique. Orchids restaurant o ers contemporary Irish cuisine created with the freshest local ingredients, while the relaxed Perrotts Garden Bistro in the conservatory is a local favourite for Mediterranean fare and Sunday lunch. Bloom – a glasshouse with retractable walls – is the latest addition, with an impressive champagne selection and small plates menu. The suntrap terrace is ideal for drinks a er visiting local attractions such as a distillery or St Finbarr’s cathedral. The award-winning Beautique Spa –the rst Elemis spa in Ireland – is one of the best in Cork, with an indoor pool, steam room, outdoor jacuzzi and Elemis and GROUND Wellbeing therapies. But perhaps best of all is the impeccable service – genuine Irish hospitality at its highest.

Doubles from €435

+353 (0)21 484 5900; hay eldmanor.ie

Hart’s Hotel

Nottingham

Purpose-built on the old ramparts of Nottingham Castle in 2003, Hart’s Hotel has striking lines, curved buttresses and a dashing yet welcoming lobby. The 32 rooms are impeccably designed, with high ceilings and ample natural light. Six have private terraces with direct access to the secluded garden (these are dog-friendly), and most inward-facing rooms o er views across the city and countryside beyond. In the foreground lies The Park Estate, a collection of Victorian residences by the duke of Newcastle, now a conservation area. Hart’s Kitchen is an intimate restaurant with two AA rosettes, where the menus – created by head chef Lewis Ward and executive chef Aaron Patterson of Michelin-starred sister hotel Hambleton Hall – feature classic British dishes made with the best seasonal ingredients. Owner Tim Hart has a passion for wine and personally selects every bottle on the list. A traditional a ernoon tea is also served daily, featuring homemade cakes from Hambleton Bakery served with either loose-leaf Jing tea or Hart’s own blend of roasted co ee from 200 Degrees in the city.

Doubles from £175 +44 (0)115 988 1900; hartsnottingham.co.uk

Killarney Royal Townhouse

Killarney

With a UNESCO national park on its doorstep, the town of Killarney is a brilliant base for exploring this southwestern part of Ireland – and Killarney Royal Townhouse, owned by the Scally family for three generations, is the place to stay. The 32 rooms are fresh from a redesign: all have a calming palette of warm neutrals and earthy tones and showcase Irish cra smanship through blankets by Mucros Weavers and pictures by local photographer Declan Mulvany. In the new casual dining space, Fig, brass lamps sit on marble-topped tables and there’s a bar where you can gather for sti gin and tonics before tucking into elevated classics – beer-battered sh and chips, con t duck leg – from the all-day menu, which focuses on showcasing local produce. Sit by a crackling re in the lobby lounge to relax a er boating on the Lakes of Killarney or climbing Ireland’s highest mountain, Carrauntoohil. For those wanting to take it easy, there is complimentary access to the health club at sister property Great Southern Killarney (less than ve minutes’ walk away), which has a heated pool, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi.

Doubles from €285

+353 (0)64 663 1853; killarneyroyal.ie

Hazlitt’s

Soho, London W1

Hazlitt’s is the real deal: as genuine, amusing and revealing a hotel as you could hope for, especially in bustling Soho, a short walk away from London’s best spots. It’s named a er radical essayist William Hazlitt, who died in poverty in 1830 at 6 Frith Street – one of three adjoining townhouses that the owners (and experts on the Georgian era) fashioned into Hazlitt’s in 1986. A fourth building behind was converted to create a sitting room with an honesty bar and an additional eight bedrooms. As be ts an establishment with such literary connections, the hotel is popular with authors, who leave signed copies of their works when they depart: the heaving bookcases are full of signed tomes from former guests including Bill Bryson, Ted Hughes and Seamus Heaney. The sloping, creaking oorboards have been retained and the 30 rooms – decorated with antiques, busts and paintings – are individually furnished, with splendid bathtubs and Victorian ttings. Like its distinctive sister establishments, Batty Langley’s (p94) and The Rookery (p108), the rooms at Hazlitt’s are delightfully di erent from other London hotels.

Doubles from £429 +44 (0)20 7434 1771; hazlittshotel.com

The Merrion Hotel

Dublin

Dublin’s nest hotel is e ortlessly gracious. Everything feels right, from the location opposite government buildings to the twinkly doormen, polished service and classically elegant bedrooms. Four Georgian townhouses – one the birthplace of the rst Duke of Wellington – have been opened up to create a series of welcoming reception rooms with stucco ceilings, peat res, antique furniture and the owner’s outstanding collection of 19th and 20thcentury Irish art, which you can uncover in a discreet audio tour. Just as impressive is the formal garden, graced by Rowan Gillespie’s wonderful statue of James Joyce. The ne dining restaurant is the two Michelinstarred province of Patrick Guilbaud, with The Garden Room available for more casual cuisine. There’s also gastro pub fare in The Cellar Bar (which is set in original 18th-century wine vaults) and No. 23, an intimate cocktail bar. For relaxation, the spa has a pillared in nity pool, treatment rooms and hair salon. No surprise that the charming general manager, Peter MacCann, has been in place since The Merrion opened – but it’s quite a surprise to nd that was over 25 years ago. It feels timeless.

Doubles from €375 +353 (0)16 030 600; merrionhotel.com

Lime Tree Hotel

Belgravia, London SW1

It’s rare to nd an a ordable hotel in central London; even more so in smart Belgravia. But Lime Tree is just that – and what’s more, it has the air of a place in the country, with a beautiful walled garden, painted furniture and breakfast menus chalked jauntily on blackboards. This delightful, 26-room bolthole is spread across two Grade II-listed townhouses, with many rooms still showcasing original features, including grand high ceilings, open replaces and original cornicing. While every bedroom is a di erent size, shape and layout, all are stylish and homely, with soothing colour palettes, geometric patterned cushions and Bramley goodies in the bathroom. There’s also a cosy lounge and The Buttery, a café-restaurant where friendly sta serve up delicious breakfasts and an all-day brunch menu. Don’t miss the American stacked pancakes, heirloom tomato salads and skillets of shakshuka made for sharing. Outside, the peaceful walled garden feels like a secret oasis, with its heart shaped topiary, festoon lights and rustic wooden tables and deckchairs. It’s a whole world away from the bustle of nearby Sloane Square and the King’s Road.

Doubles from £195 +44 (0)20 7730 8191; room-matehotels.com

No.131

Cheltenham

Set across a trio of Georgian townhouses on Cheltenham’s Promenade, No.131 o ers a stay that brings a contemporary edge to the Cotswolds. Inside, 36 individually designed bedrooms blend period architecture with bold fabrics, creating spaces that are both considered and relaxed. For something exceptional, the Kings House Suite – sleeping four – o ers a more social feel, complete with its own living space designed for celebratory group getaways. Outside the bedrooms, No.131 is made for gathering. The Terrace restaurant moves e ortlessly from breakfast through to late dinners, while Gin & Juice serves expertly cra ed cocktails across a sun-dappled garden bar and atmospheric indoor space. Upstairs, YOKU brings re ned, Japanese-inspired dining, with Bar Tokyo o ering small plates and cocktails in a late-night setting. No.131’s signature sense of energy and attention to detail carries through to weddings and private events, where spaces can be tailored for everything from intimate dinners to full house takeovers. From relaxed stays to milestone moments, No.131 delivers an experience that feels as memorable as it does e ortless.

Doubles from £150; +44 (0)1242 822939; no131.com

Old Bank Hotel

Oxford

The Old Bank Hotel, with its 43 stunning bedrooms, is the jewel in the crown of The Oxford Collection, whose portfolio includes the Old Parsonage Hotel (page 106) and 36 St Giles (page 182). Brilliantly located on the High Street, this sleekly designed hotel is surrounded by Oxford’s most beautiful colleges (Merton, All Souls, Christ Church) and sits opposite the world-renowned Radcli e Camera and Bodleian Libraries. All rooms feature handmade EPOC beds, striking artwork and Carrara marble-clad bathrooms – and make full use of the setting. For something super special, book Room 1, ‘The Room With The View’, a stunning roo op bedroom with a private terrace. Quod Restaurant, with a stylish Italian terrace and show-stopping onyx bar, is Oxford’s most revered and buzziest place to eat. Formerly a banking hall, the interiors are spectacular (with modern art by top British artists such as Damien Hirst, Sandra Blow and Craigie Aitchison) and the food is excellent. To top it o , make use of the exclusive residents’ library, private workout space, and partnerships with local cultural gems, The Ashmolean and Blenheim Palace.

Doubles from £250 +44 (0)1865 799599; oldbankhotel.co.uk

The Milestone Hotel & Residences

Kensington, London W8

Overlooking Kensington Palace, this red-brick Victorian hotel feels more like a beautifully run private home, shaped by Red Carnation Hotels’ thoughtful approach to hospitality. Many of the team have been here for years, creating a sense of familiarity and care that guests return for time and again. Rooms are elegant and comfortable; each suite has its own personality, from the sleek Ruhlmann to the richly detailed, Art Deco-inspired Noel Coward. The Royal Kensington fuses two of the suites to create a 1,000sq/ space, making it perfect for families. Days can be e ortlessly tailored, from private shopping in Knightsbridge to picnics in Kensington Gardens or Hyde Park, with museums and the Royal Albert Hall moments away. Back at the hotel, relax in the pool, sauna or at a calming treatment before refuelling with re ned British cuisine at Cheneston’s. The Stables Bar is the place for imaginatively cra ed cocktails, with its woodpanelled walls, racing green leather banquettes and brass lamps. A ernoon tea in The Park Lounge completes the experience, making this a hotel that balances a busy location with genuine warmth and ease.

Doubles from £525 +44 (0)20 7917 1000; milestonehotel.com

One Aldwych

Covent Garden, London WC2

Housed in a beautiful heritage building that was once home to The Morning Post newspaper, One Aldwych is brilliantly positioned on the edge of bustling Covent Garden. Contemporary yet soothing suites and bedrooms are a real sanctuary and come with sweeping city views. Families are beautifully catered for with delightful touches for little ones like mini bathrobes, slippers and a selection of games and treats. The signature restaurant, Indigo, celebrates British producers in seasonal dishes like Devonshire chicken thigh with chicken consommé or Cornish halibut with St Austell mussels. Ease into Sunday with brunch: Bloody Marys mixed tableside, a live DJ setting the tone and a lineup of the very best brunch classics. The Lobby Bar, with its extensive list of cool cra cocktails, is an institution, while the Charlie and the Chocolate Factory -inspired a ernoon tea is huge fun for all ages. The concierge has the inside track on everything from hot theatre tickets to must-visit exhibitions. Upon return, settle down in The Library with piles of beautiful books. And for pampering, while away a few hours in the deeply cosseting One Aldwych Health Club & Spa.

Doubles from £600 (based on a deluxe room) +44 (0)20 7300 1000; onealdwych.com

Old Parsonage

Hotel

Oxford

Sitting at the head of the St Giles’ boulevard, the Old Parsonage is a local institution. The hotel has stood on its present site since 1660. Today, history still laces every room, but the property has been brought bang up to date beautifully – as proven by the Michelin Guide, which just awarded the hotel the rst Michelin Key in Oxford. Chic modern interiors, eclectic country house charm and striking 20th-century portraits run throughout. The 35 individually designed rooms and suites feature handmade EPOC beds, rich natural fabrics and Carrara marble-clad bathrooms. The food is a serious highlight, with Parsonage Grill the beating heart of the hotel. Known for its intimate, clubby atmosphere, it’s about classic British dishes with a modern touch. Tuck into the likes of rabbit and tarragon pie and Hereford llet steak with chips – plus the a ernoon tea is renowned, particularly when taken within the Moroccan-style courtyard. There’s a light- lled library to relax in a erwards, but the hotel’s central location calls for a wander. The Ashmolean and Pitt Rivers museums, the Oxford Playhouse and the University Parks are just a short walk away.

Doubles from £250 +44 (0)1865 310210; oldparsonagehotel.co.uk

Park Hyatt London River Thames

Nine Elms, London SW8

A short stroll from Battersea Park and just across Vauxhall Bridge from Tate Britain, this hotel is a re ned south London sanctuary. Art in the lobby – a striking ribbon-like sculpture intertwining wood and copper by Charlie Whinney, alongside Ian Rayer-Smith’s Land and Water painting – re ects the movement and character of the River Thames, grounding guests with a sense of place. Then there are the sweeping river and city views from oor-to-ceiling windows in the rooms and suites. You’ll also nd a dedicated wellness oor, featuring one of the largest heated indoor swimming pools among London’s hotels, alongside a two-storey height gym, Somadome meditation pods, sauna and treatments that range from hormone balancing massages to a holistic mind-body-brain detox. The Cantonese restaurant Yú Gé is the ‘it’ spot for dim sum lunches and Peking duck carved theatrically at the table. Meanwhile, the bar and lounge transitions from co ee hub by day to cocktail venue at night and The Nine Elms Kitchen & Terrace presents seasonal dishes prepared in an open kitchen. An unexpected setting rede ned with quiet sophistication.

Doubles from £695

+44 (0)20 3503 1234; parkhyattlondonriverthames.com

Pan Pacific London

The City, London EC3

With The Gherkin practically within touching distance, Pan Paci c London is a calm sanctuary in the bustling Square Mile. Rooms and suites are designed to evoke English and Asian gardens, combining soothing neutral shades, botanical bedheads, marble bathrooms, and oor-to-ceiling windows with cityscape views. Dining centres around Straits Kitchen, where Western culinary techniques meet Southeast Asian avours (try the ve-course experience menu for a taste of the chef’s favourites). Meanwhile, Ginger Lily Bar & Lounge is for comforting classics (the triple cheese toastie is a signature), a ernoon tea and cocktails. Wellness is also a priority, with the dedicated Sensory spa and wellbeing oor o ering an in nity pool, saunas and steam rooms, relaxation beds, and a 24-hour gym. The in-suite Sensory sleep experience guarantees a blissful night’s rest: choose from amenities including an overnight face mask, bath salts, guided meditation, a selection of relaxing teas, and a curated collection of books. Celebrating its h anniversary this year, Pan Paci c gives guests the opportunity to discover the city – then escape it.

Doubles from £465 +44 (0)20 7118 6888; panpaci clondon.com

The Rookery

Clerkenwell, London EC1

Those in the know in London don’t lay their heads in the centre of town – they swerve east to its most fashionable districts. Luckily, we know of secret abodes beyond the reach of hipsters and tech geeks. One such hideaway is the deliciously unique The Rookery, in the heart of gastronomic Clerkenwell. A er eating top-class grub and partying hard, you can retreat to one of its 33 quirky bedrooms, none of which are the same. Each, though, has gorgeous Georgian detailing, polished brass metalwork in bathrooms, antiques aplenty and shelves bulging with books. In the 1800s, Clerkenwell was teeming with thieves, tarts and ne’er-do-wells; a ‘rookery’ was universally understood to mean ‘a criminal area’ and many of the rooms here are named a er those local characters of ill repute. During your stay, you won’t worry about the wonky oors or the lack of things like a spa or a gym while you enjoy the hotel’s calm and mannered atmosphere – a bit like that of a private club – as you settle in the drawing room or courtyard garden with the papers. Plus, you’re only a stone’s throw from St Paul’s Cathedral.

Doubles from £429

+44 (0)20 7336 0931; rookeryhotel.com

The PIG – In The Wall Southampton

If The PIG in the New Forest is the country house, then this is its coastal town cousin, close by in Southampton and the smallest in the litter. Charmingly embraced by the city’s medieval defensive walls, it is gorgeous, a ordable and makes a great choice for a short, hasslefree urban break, easily reached by train from London in just 90 minutes. Hole up in one of its faultlessly chic bedrooms, where retro radios, telephones and alarm clocks sit alongside superb beds, rain showers, roll-top baths, well-stocked fridge larders, bare oorboards, painted wood ceilings, and pretty fabrics. In the morning, linger over aky pastries, cold meats and eggs (which you can boil to your own liking), and peruse the morning papers in the Edwardian country-style kitchen-cumparlour. For lunch, graze from the inviting deli counter. Later, you can do some serious damage in the city’s Westquay shopping centre (if you dare) and then, at cocktail hour, head back to the hotel for a delicious dinner of freshly prepared salads, hearty plates (including a pie of the day) and sweet treats on the outdoor terrace, where you’ll be as happy as a pig in manure.

Doubles from £145

+44 (0)23 8063 6900; thepighotel.com

The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa

Bath

Set on Bath’s historic Royal Crescent, this hotel and spa is a sanctuary of elegance and re nement. The ve-star retreat o ers impeccable service, warm hospitality and meticulous attention to detail, ensuring a memorable and personalised stay. Most of the 45 rooms and suites boast captivating views, whether overlooking the hotel’s herbaceous gardens or the Royal Crescent’s grand lawn. For groups of up to eight, there’s also the Garden Villa, with its own outside space. Montagu’s Mews o ers carefully curated menus by head chef Martin Blake, from a ernoon tea to an indulgent six-course tasting dinner and an a la carte selection to suit every mood and taste. The glamorous bar tempts with expertly cra ed cocktails, while the heated outdoor terrace – set against the backdrop of a secluded acre of glorious gardens – provides a charming spot to unwind. For ultimate relaxation, the spa o ers a haven of tranquillity, featuring a relaxation pool, sauna and steam room. There’s also an organic range of Ground Wellbeing rituals, complemented by Medik8 treatments designed to re ne skin tone, texture and the appearance of ne lines.

Doubles from £410

+44 (0)1225 823333; royalcrescent.co.uk

Rosewood London

Holborn, London WC1

With its winning combination of English heritage and contemporary sophistication, Rosewood London sits rmly in the highest echelons of the capital’s luxury hotels. The Grade II-listed Belle Époque building has the feel of a stylish London residence; guests enter a grand, wrought-iron gated former carriage arch, leading to the hotel’s historic central courtyard – featuring a beautiful terrace which delivers fun pop-up experiences throughout the year – while the Grand Pavonazzo marble staircase soars to a dizzying 166-foot cupola. Inside, the hotel is the work of two designers: Tony Chi created the 264 glamorous rooms and 44 suites, including fantastic family rooms. He also worked his magic on the splendid Rose Bronze Gallery entrance and the jewel box Mirror Room. Meanwhile, Martin Brudnizki designed both the Holborn Dining Room – a British brasserie with a trendy gin bar – and the dashing Scarfes Bar, its walls decorated with paintings by satirical artist Gerald Scarfe. Don’t miss The Pie Room with its sumptuous selection of hand-cra ed pies. Suites come with a dedicated butler, and service is faultless.

Doubles from £750 +44 (0)20 7781 8888; rosewoodhotels.com/london

University Arms

Cambridge

Cambridge’s oldest hotel, University Arms, is a renowned address de ned by the intellectual history of the city. Positioned on Parker’s Piece – where the rst game of football with rules was played – and originally built in 1834, the architecture pays homage to the neo-classical period in elements such as the porte cochère entrance on Regent Street. The hotel’s 189 rooms feature book collections curated by Mayfair’s Heywood Hill and a palette of Cambridge blue, while each of the Terrace suites is named a er a local playwright. Parker’s Tavern, a relaxed, brasserie-style restaurant, serves a menu of reimagined classics that celebrate the best local produce. The space is an evocation of a college dining hall, with interiors by Martin Brudnizki (who is also behind the rooms) designed around the original architecture, such as stained-glass windows with crests of the original colleges, plus artworks curated by Adam Ellis Studio. The bar serves a selection of signature cocktails and works with local producers from Sa ron Grange Vineyard to Cambridge Distillery. A ernoon tea can be enjoyed in Parker’s Tavern or in the library by a roaring re. Doubles from £229; +44 (0)1223 606066; universityarms.com

The Westin London City Hotel & Residences

The City, London EC4

The Westin London City, part of the Marriott Bonvoy portfolio, is beautifully situated along the River Thames just a stone’s throw from Shakespeare’s Globe, Tower Bridge and Tate Modern. A contemporary ve-star retreat, this sophisticated venue is rooted in wellbeing. There are 226 elegantly designed bedrooms, suites, and residences, each featuring the signature Heavenly Bed. Dine at Hithe + Seek, a stylish bar and kitchen with panoramic riverfront views, small plates and ne wines, or the all-day restaurant Mosaic, which serves sustainably sourced dishes for any occasion. The Heavenly Spa is a beautiful sanctuary o ering treatments using Germaine de Capuccini and Aromatherapy Associates products; be sure to book the deeply healing oating sound bath. Guests can also enjoy a 12m pool, sauna, steam room, experience shower, ice fountain and the WestinWorkout Fitness Studio. If all this wasn’t enough, there are also rejuvenating monthly yoga classes and a monthly running club, Rise & Run, making the most of the wonderful running routes right on the hotel’s doorstep.

Doubles from £415; +44 (0)20 3146 2690; westinlondoncity.co.uk

Small Country Stays

Sometimes smaller really can be better

Days (& Nights) on the Farm

Charlie Colville digs deep into Britain’s growing hospitality scene down on the farm

t’s no secret that Britain is entering its pop culture renaissance. No doubt you’ll have spent time in the last year securing tickets to the Oasis reunion, bingewatching your way through The Traitors, or tracking down a secondhand Burberry trench on eBay.

‘I think people are looking at Britain in a slightly di erent way now,’ says Olive Guest, co-founder of Glebe House in Devon. ‘There’s this quirky eccentricity – this Britishness – which is seen as something quite trendy.’

Perhaps this is why, on a deeper level, we’re craving experiences that feel authentically British. And where might we nd those? Not on the beach or cooped up in a hotel room – but outdoors, on the farm.

‘People are looking for experiences that are grounding and meaningful, and rooted in a speci c place,’ Guest explains. Glebe, which serves as a guest house, restaurant and 15-acre smallholding, is one of the UK’s growing population of farming hospitality destinations. ‘Staying on a working farm allows people to slow down and do that. They can observe the rhythms of nature and learn something new themselves – whether that’s how the food is grown, how animals are cared for, or how seasonal cooking really works.’

‘Holidays now don’t necessarily entail switching o ,’ adds Caitlin Owens, founder of recently opened rural retreat Fowlescombe Farm, also in Devon. ‘People are looking to immerse themselves in something that is real, and that’s where the interest in farming comes from.’

Farm hospitality isn’t exclusively British – its roots, in fact, go back to the Italian agriturismo – but it’s on UK

soil that the concept is really starting to take o .

‘The UK is such an interesting market,’ says journalist Samantha Shankman. She traded her pen for a plough some years ago, moving to the Spanish countryside with her partner to open their own farm hotel. More recently, she’s been working on Farm Hospitality, a directory of international farm hotels and shops – and has noticed a surge in British outposts.

‘There’s this culture of going back to the countryside that’s being revitalised,’ she says. ‘This has created a real mix of properties: wellness retreats with working farms; traditional guest houses with paddocks and kitchen gardens; luxury manors that o er workshops where you can make foodstu s using produce grown on its grounds. These are world-class examples of what farm hospitality could be. When I think of what the actual most exciting market for farm hospitality is today, it has to be the UK.’

But don’t get them mixed up with country hotels, pubs or inns; with a farm hotel, the experience revolves around the farm itself. It’s not a hotel with a farm attached, it’s a farm with a hotel attached – albeit with the luxury furnishings that make for a top-tier getaway.

‘Working farm stays aren’t really very new – what is new is the posh working farm stay,’ emphasises Owens. ‘You can now nd this very elevated o ering. There’s still mud on your wellies, but you don’t shuck them o to climb into a tent. You’re greeted by the nest standard of hospitality.’

The food is also, naturally, a focal point. With produce grown and reared on the farm, then used to create fresh dishes in the kitchen,

farm hotels also double up as foodie hotspots. ‘Farming itself is very tangible; you can literally see what’s going on behind the scenes,’ Owens says. ‘Rather than hiding the farming, it’s about showcasing it and making that the essence of the space. It’s functional luxury.’

She adds that people no longer crave experiences that feel ‘anonymous’ – i.e. where we only see and consume the nal product. ‘You want to connect with where your food comes from,’ she says. ‘At a farm hotel, a guest can sit and watch someone on the team moving sheep from one eld to another, or feeding the chickens, or milking the cows. They can watch the chef doing some butchery or the gardeners sowing seeds.

‘What they see is the real Britain expressed through a farm – and it encourages a con dence in the food that is then served at breakfast, lunch and dinner.’

The new wave of farm hotels also o er their guests more than countryside views or a lap around the grounds. ‘You have to be able to get your hands in the dirt,’ Shankman says. ‘That’s one of the big draws of the farm stay. You go and

‘Working farm stays aren’t really very new – what is new is the posh working farm stay. You can now find this very elevated offering’

enjoy the very fun, juicy part of farming: the picking, the harvesting, the making of produce like bread and sausages and jam.’

You might not be able to do all of the classic farming jobs – ‘We still want to give the farm team space to safely and productively get on with their work,’ says Owens – but there are usually still plenty of opportunities to engage with the lifestyle.

Your morning at Fowlescombe, for example, may kick o with yoga session backdropped by birdsong, followed by an a ernoon feeding chickens and collecting eggs or picking juniper berries to make the farm’s famous sloe gin.

At Glebe, meanwhile, guests can try their hand at seasonal food preparations. ‘We make our own cheeses; all the salami is made inhouse with the pigs we’ve reared,’ says Guest. Glebe o ers courses throughout the year where guests can preserve vegetables and make their own cured meats, fresh pasta and bread. ‘They get to take what they’ve prepared home, too, so it feels like a very rewarding experience.’

And then there’s Coombeshead Farm. The Cornish guest house is home to cattle, sheep, pigs, chickens and guinea fowl, as well as an orchard and market garden, which supplies the restaurant. Workshops on baking, butchery and printmaking are also on o er.

Larger-scale operations, like Heck eld

Caitlin Owens, Fowlescombe Farm

Place in Hampshire, also showcase how luxury farm stays are rede ning the traditional hotel experience. The working estate delivers localism through its food and drink o ering –dishes bring together the produce they grow, rear and make on-site – as well as a blend of classic countryside pastimes and modern wellness activities. Wild swimming, willow weaving or boating on the lake and then a foraged cocktail-making workshop, perhaps.

Beyond the southern cluster of farm hotels –where many seem to be cropping up – you’ll nd Guardswell Farm, a 150-acre grassland farm in Scotland. The family-run business sits on a mixture of permanent pasture and woodlands, and is home to a charming crew of Shetland cattle, Angora goats, Hebridean sheep, and hens. When not sampling the regenerative market garden or cider orchard, guests can learn more practical skills from the farm, including hedge laying, using tools, and habitat-friendly farm boundary management.

‘Experiences with richness – where people can get hands-on and be more involved in what’s happening – is where farm hospitality really thrives,’ says Shankman. ‘Of course, every visitor is going to want to do that to a di erent degree, but it’s that idea that you’re going somewhere to learn something valuable, something you can take home with you.’ ■

The Dabbling Duck

Great Massingham, Norfolk

In picturesque Great Massingham, The Dabbling Duck is a successful village pub celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. It’s run with great warmth by experienced, hands-on owner-manager Mark Dobby and his wife Sally, a professional photographer whose prints decorate some of the walls. As soon as you walk in, you’re struck by the rustic aesthetic: wooden oors, tables and bar; hops hanging from beams; shelves of books. There are 13 bedrooms (some dog-friendly, others suitable for families) – including three peaceful garden rooms and four in adjacent, newly refurbished Barrack House, with roll-top baths and walk-in showers – plus Duckling Cottage, which sleeps six. The pub has a well-deserved reputation for its own Mucky Duck gin, real ales and curated wine list. The terri c food is made using local produce and prepared by skilful chef Dale Smith (who is marking his own ten-year milestone in the kitchen). There’s also a beautiful, oak-beamed barn with a cosy wood burner, an outdoor bar, and a kitchen serving pizza and tapas on Fridays and Saturdays. The barn opens up onto the pub garden, which has a play area for little ones.

Doubles from £110

+44 (0)1485 520827; thedabblingduck.co.uk

The Cavendish Hotel Baslow, Derbyshire

This 250-year-old former coaching inn turned countryhouse hotel on the Chatsworth Estate ticks all the boxes. The elegant interiors by Nicola Harding are inspired by Chatsworth’s art, history and people, with artwork sourced from the Devonshire family’s collection. The 28 supremely comfortable bedrooms come with antique furniture, stone replaces and stunning views. Punches of colour and texture add a sense of fun. Dining here is utterly thrilling. With executive chef Adam Harper at the helm, the elegant three-AA rosette Gallery Restaurant serves imaginative food using ingredients from the estate or local farmers. Alternatively, there’s the Garden Room, inspired by Chatsworth’s glasshouses, with its large terrace and fantastic views across the estate. The menu features an ever-changing selection of seasonal favourites. Enjoy an aperitif beforehand in the 1950s-style bar, surrounded by an eclectic collection of 21st-century photography and family photos. By day, the best of the Peak District is on your doorstep. Or stay close to home, with a walk across the parkland, spotting the roaming semi-wild deer, towards Chatsworth House.

Doubles from £249 +44 (0)1246 582311; cavendishbaslow.co.uk

Foxhill Manor

Broadway, Worcestershire

Nestled within the scenic woodland of the Farncombe Estate, this sophisticated but relaxed hotel was originally a private home. Sister hotel to Dormy House (p73) and The Fish (p169), Foxhill Manor rede nes luxury with an all-inclusive experience that o ers endless indulgence and impeccable service. Set high on the hillside, Foxhill’s elevated position provides sweeping views over the Vale of Evesham, creating a serene and secluded atmosphere. There are ve sumptuous bedrooms and three suites to choose from, all individually designed with a mood and character of their own. Instead of a traditional restaurant, guests are invited into the kitchen at the heart of the house to meet the chef and share their foodie desires. Ingredients are seasonal, grown locally and full of avour. The hotels Full Fox package includes lunch, dinner and unlimited spirits, wine and Champagne, where every detail is taken care of. Guests can enjoy a chau eur service to and from the award winning Dormy House Spa or local village of Broadway. With just eight bedrooms and suites, the manor is ideal for groups of up to 16 guests and can be booked exclusively.

Doubles from £850 +44 (0)1386 854200; foxhillmanor.com

The Double Red Duke Clanfield,

Oxfordshire

This wisteria-clad coaching inn situated in the village of Clan eld, on the edge of the Cotswolds, comes from the minds of Sam and Georgie Pearman of Country Creatures and formerly Cubitt House. Guests can hunker down in one of the sitting rooms for drinks before heading to the open-plan bar and garden room for the hotel’s biggest draw, the food, which is cooked over an open re. Book the chef’s counter to be at the heart of the action. Think charred squid, smoked aubergine and miso dip, the best longhorn steaks, and crème brûlée for dessert. A fabulous chef series runs throughout the year, hosting exciting talent such as Margot Henderson and Niklas Ekstedt. Upstairs, comfortable rooms with original wooden beams shine a spotlight on British artisans. Upholstered furniture is designed by George Smith, while fabrics and wallpaper are from brands including Fermoie and Rapture & Wright. There is also a shepherd’s hut in the herb garden for massages using all-natural, botanical products. The 12-seater feasting room and the garden room (for up to 40) can be hired for parties.

Doubles from £180 +44 (0)1367 810222; countrycreatures.com

Gravetye Manor

West Hoathly, West Sussex

It was just over 60 years ago, in 1958, when Peter Herbert opened this Elizabethan manor as a hotel. It’s now in the caring hands of Elizabeth Hosking, who has kept its integrity intact while beautifully renovating and subtly modernising it. Today’s furnishings look fresh and elegant, but the feel remains the same: the unhurried calm, the polite but chatty sta , the profusion of naturally arranged owers, and the smell of linseed oil and wood smoke from great open hearths. One of the biggest draws is executive chef Martin Carabott’s Michelin-starred food. Driven by produce from the walled kitchen garden and served in the stunning, glassfronted dining room, it is an accomplished delight, whether you’re tucking into variations of home-grown beetroot served with Sussex slipcote or forced rhubarb sou é. And the 35-acre gardens – which were originally created by visionary gardener William Robinson in 1885 and are some of the most historically important in England – have been restored to their former glory, thanks to a dedicated team headed by Tom Coward. They are wonderful and transform an aperitif on the terrace into an unforgettable treat.

Doubles from £400; +44 (0)1342 810567; gravetyemanor.co.uk

Grove of Narberth

Narberth, Pembrokeshire

A short drive from the spectacular Pembrokeshire coast, this striking country house was derelict when Neil and Zoe Kedward began restoring it in 2007. From the outset they followed a clear green action plan, and today the property enjoys 100 percent renewable electricity, water drawn from the property’s own boreholes, and 4,000 indigenous trees on site, creating a habitat for local wildlife. The charming hotel has 25 bedrooms designed by top interior designer Martin Hulbert: all have a view of the gardens, surrounding elds or Preseli Hills, while some of the cottage suites come with glass box garden lounges. Hulbert also created an inviting, Welsh-inspired look for the ground oor, where dinners in the four-AA rosette Fernery restaurant – with its stunning wallpaper made from ferns pressed by the team – are a highlight. You can also eat more simply in the relaxed, rustic-style Artisan Rooms Brasserie or al fresco in the courtyard, surrounded by apple trees. Executive chef Douglas Balish’s creations are superb and locally sourced, o en using foraged ingredients. Don’t miss Pembrokeshire Table, the hotel’s new series of supper clubs.

Doubles from £390; +44 (0)1834 860915; grovenarberth.co.uk

Hampton Manor

Hampton-in-Arden, West Midlands

From renewable energy and traditional cra s to regenerative farming and sustainable uniforms, the planet- rst values of owners James and Fjona Hill shine through at this 45-acre estate. Food is at the heart: there’s a cookery school, bakery, and bee hives in the walled garden, where Michelin-starred Grace & Savour restaurant is set. Dinner here is a tasting menu, typically up to 14 courses (lunch is up to eight), perhaps including dishes such as ex-dairy beef from the Gower Peninsula with wild and garden grown mustards. At casual Kynd, also in the walled garden, in the old furnace house, British produce is cooked over coals. Guests can also gather for vinyl and cake at teatime and an informal wine tasting (the 4pm Swig). Every day there is a chance to meet a maker – a chef, sommelier, gardener or creative – while seasonal workshops range from fermentation and foraging to candle making. Bed down in the manor house, with access to living spaces with roaring res, a bar and the games room; the walled garden suites, which each have a hand-cast concrete bath in the room; or the four-bedroom manor cottage.

Doubles from £275 +44 (0)1675 446080; hamptonmanor.com

Hambleton Hall

Oakham, Rutland

Of all the luxury British country house hotels that have opened in the last half-century, just one, Hambleton Hall, has remained impervious to fortune and is as magical and enveloping as the day its owners, Tim and Stefa Hart, founded it 46 years ago this July. Contented but never complacent, it o ers sophisticated yet deeply comfortable classic English interiors, the brilliant, locally sourced cooking of executive chef Aaron Patterson and head chefs Charlie Jones and James Stone (the hotel has held a Michelin star for 44 years – the record in the UK) and a joyous wine list curated by revered sommelier Dominique Baduel. There are 17 elegant bedrooms: for those seeking privacy, book the Croquet Suite, a cottage for four, adjacent to the hotel. There is also a swimming pool, tennis court, and views across Hambleton’s south-facing terrace and formal gardens that take your breath away. A er a day of fresh air, Hambleton a cionados return to their haven, where loyal key sta –general manager, restaurant manager, chef, sommelier, housekeeper, receptionist, laundress – have notched up over 200 years of service between them.

Doubles from £455 +44 (0)1572 756991; hambletonhall.com

The Jack Russell Inn

Faccombe, Andover

Sitting at the heart of the beautiful Faccombe Estate, this classic country pub ticks all the boxes: great views, friendly sta and excellent, locally sourced food served in the airy dining room. Menus are led by estate produce, from seasonal game to orchard fruits, and are accompanied by the best sustainable wines from around the world. Fish Friday and the Sunday roast are especially popular; signature dishes include Faccombe venison haunch and pan-fried wild seabass. The outdoor terrace has a roaring log re and sheepskin throws for early evening drinks or a er-dinner cocktails. Each of the 11 bedrooms is named a er a di erent dog breed; indeed, dogs are positively welcomed, with beds and bowls provided. Little luxuries like espresso machines, minibars and a hearty full English breakfast the next morning raise the bar further. The Newbury races, Highclere Castle and several prestigious vineyards are close by, while the wonderful surrounding countryside is great for walking. Eco-conscious guests will love the estate’s borehole, wind turbine and biomass boiler providing heat to the pub, lodge and local community.

Doubles from £130

+44 (0)1264 737315; thejackrussellinn.com

The Inn at Whitewell Forest of Bowland, Lancashire

Charlie Bowman is the third generation of his family to run this charming 25-bedroom former coaching inn. Part of the Duchy of Lancaster estate, the inn’s roots date back to the 14th century and it brims with character – from the impressive collection of antiques that include Victorian bathing machines to the pictures on the bedroom walls. Bookcases are packed with travel and cookery tomes available for purchase, while the reception area also serves as a well-stocked wine shop with the inn’s own merchant, Bowland Forest Vintners, on site. The food from head chef Jamie Cadman is simple yet re ned and the elevated restaurant o ers such compelling views that conversation o en takes a back seat. The road leading to tiny Whitewell descends through the wild, steep-sided Trough of Bowland, opening into a natural amphitheatre of meadows and hills. The River Hodder, with shing available, runs alongside the inn. Four-legged friends are welcome, and all bedrooms are dog-friendly. Families will love The Piggeries, the hotel’s spacious three-doublebedroom self-catering cottage, a short walk away, which has fabulous views over the river to the fells.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1200 448222; innatwhitewell.com

Louma Country Hotel

Bridport, Dorset

Set in 100 acres of rolling countryside, Louma Country Hotel began life as a family farm and has evolved into a serene retreat rooted in nature. There are 17 individually designed bedrooms, with nature-inspired interiors and soul-stirring views – each housed in its own distinct space, from cosy Stone Barns to hand-cra ed Shepherd Huts. At the estate’s heart lies the light- lled Wellness Barn and Spa, home to two swimming pools, a state-of-the-art gym and sauna. Treatments range from soothing massages to craniosacral therapy. Life here revolves around three pillars: Eat Well, Move Well, Think Well. Food is included and showcases Louma’s farm-to-fork ethos. Fruit, vegetables and heritage orchard varieties are grown on site, alongside native, grass-fed breeds and free-range chickens. In the kitchen, chefs create vibrant, seasonal dishes shaped by the gardens, local shermen and foragers. Days unfold with hearty breakfasts, bu et lunches of wood- red meats and pizzas and delicious dinners (don’t miss the Louma Farm lamb). Farm tours, woodland play, horse rides and reside s’mores complete this deeply restorative rural escape.

Doubles from £633; +44 (0)1308 800298; loumacountryhotel.co.uk

Mad Swans in the Mendips

The Mendips, Somerset

This new countryside retreat from Beaverbrook co-founders Joel Cadbury and Ollie Vigors reimagines sports and social spaces as vibrant hubs. At its heart is the golf course designed by Mackenzie & Ebert, nodding to the sport’s origins when the inaugural Open Championship in 1860 was played over 12 holes. The shorter course aims to make golf more accessible. There’s also padel and pickleball; a driving range in the Swing Barn (where ordering cocktails and freshly baked pizzas is encouraged), a putt patch; and darts and shu eboard with augmented reality technology. It’s aimed at all ages and sporting abilities, with coaches on site for beginners. Guests stay in eco-cabins (which can be taken individually or joined together as a shared space for up to eight) looking out across the Mendip Hills. Menus at The Potting Shed restaurant and The Hangout bar and pizzeria are led by group head chef Steve Rooney, with creative input from chef Ollie Dabbous. Mad Swans is a playful concept that’s a world away from the stu y clubhouses of the past; be sure to look out for its second location, opening in the South Downs in June.

Cabins from £195 +44 (0)1761 451596; madswans.com

Lympstone Manor

Exmouth, Devon

This handsome country-house hotel is the culmination of experience gleaned by chef patron Michael Caines over an exceptional career gaining Michelin stars. There are 21 glamorous guest rooms which take their names from birds of the Exe Estuary, as well as six shepherd’s huts at the foot of the vineyard looking up through the vines to the house. Indeed, the soul of the place revolves around the Exe and its wildlife. The birds of the estuary are featured in the staircase wallpaper, and the bedrooms, each decorated with a watercolour of their avian namesake, match the feathered colour schemes. One of the main reasons to come is for Caines’ exquisite and intelligent food with a Michelin star and ve AA rosettes. There is a second casual dining restaurant, The Pool House Restaurant & Bar, too, with its outdoor heated swimming pool and tennis court. The 28 acres of grounds on the Exe Estuary are a gateway to the stunning Jurassic Coast, while the 11-acre vineyard produces English Sparkling Wine and a collection of still wines from barrel-aged chardonnay to Provencal-style rosé and more.

Doubles from £448

+44 (0)1395 202040; lympstonemanor.co.uk

Ockenden Manor

Cuckfield, West Sussex

You get the best of both worlds at Ockenden. If you prefer reassuring, traditional comfort, look no further than this charming Elizabethan manor house. If you want slick, sophisticated modernity, that’s yours, too. As well as the elegant drawing room, there’s an oakpanelled bar (where the wine list boasts over 60 English wines, many produced by local vineyards), the Burrell Room for private dining (complete with its original Tudor ceiling), and an airy restaurant where Stephen Crane serves some of the nest food in Sussex. The 27 bedrooms are all full of character: some have original panelling and four-posters, while others are fresh and pretty. And then there’s the spa. Built inside a walled garden, it’s utterly modern on the outside and airy and natural inside, with an indoor-outdoor pool, hot tub, walkthrough rain shower, steam room, sauna and sun deck. As for the six rst- oor spa suites, they all pack a thoroughly contemporary punch, with shutters that open onto a roof garden with views across to the South Downs. Less than an hour’s train ride from London, it’s the perfect weekend escape.

Doubles from £245

+44 (0)1444 416111; hshotels.co.uk

Number One Bruton

Bruton, Somerset

Set in the thriving market town of Bruton, steps away from Somerset’s best spots, this Georgian townhouse turned hotel has 12 rooms set around a pretty courtyard (designed by Penelope Hobhouse). Somerset’s cra heritage is evident throughout: stay in the townhouse, with its rich colour palette and staircase that winds up to the eaves; in one of the cottages, all warm stone oors and Morris textiles; or the forge, which combines ancient beams and wooden cladding with cosy rugs and ticking stripes. There is a welcome package of local, treats including Westcombe Cheddar, shortbread, cider (blended for Number One by The Newt) and apple juice. The small-batch, organic toiletries in the bathrooms are made in-house. For the continental bu et breakfast: freshly baked pastries, so boiled eggs, cheese from Sir Cameron Mackintosh’s estate, ham, yogurt and homemade granola is served in the old ironmonger’s shop on the ground oor. At lunch and supper, it becomes Michelin Bib Gourmand-listed Briar, a farm-to-table restaurant headed up by former River Cottage chef Sam Lomas, with a seasonal menu that changes daily.

Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1749 813030; numberonebruton.com

Palé Hall Hotel

Bala, Snowdonia

Set in the Dee Valley, on the edge of Snowdonia National Park, Palé Hall is a historic country house hotel with over 50 acres of grounds. The Victorian property combines original architectural features with individually designed bedrooms, alongside garden suites created from the restored former coach house. This year marks a new chapter with the appointment of chef partner Luke Selby, who is leading the food and drink o ering as well as the wider guest experience. Food remains central to a stay at Palé Hall, anchored by ne dining restaurant Henry Robertson (a new eatery is in the pipeline to open later in 2026). Guests can also enjoy The Hearth chef’s table experience and the Bryntirion Inn, a refurbished 300-year-old pub with rooms on the estate. Menus are shaped by seasonal produce, with focus on ingredients grown on site and sourced across North Wales. Across the estate, activities include shing on the River Dee, clay pigeon shooting and pottery classes in the on-site studio. Recent additions include a wellness and gym facility, whisky bar and wine cellar, reinforcing the country house’s position as an immersive culinary destination.

Doubles from £320

+44 (0)1678 530285; palehall.co.uk

The Painswick

Stroud, Gloucestershire

A glorious combination of design-led interiors, heavenly food and creature comforts, set in one of the Cotswolds’ prettiest towns. This picture-perfect Palladian house, owned by The Calcot Collection, is a relaxing, chic haven with ace cuisine and fabulous views over the Slad valley. The hotel masters the art of creating laidback luxury, conjuring up an arty, subtly funky feel in the sitting rooms and furnishing the 17 bedrooms in pale, soothing tones with characteristic attention to detail. Families and groups will love The Cottage, a private three-bedroom property next to the hotel, with its own kitchen and lounge. Make use of the exclusive space and indulge in a pre-ordered tray-bake – just pop in the oven and dine at your leisure. Or enjoy SAUCE, the hotel’s brasserie, serving sharing platters, feasting boards and small plates. Breakfast in the sunny restaurant is a delight –as is the grazing style a ernoon tea in one of the cosy lounges or on the lovely terrace with valley views. During the day, there’s walking routes galore nearby, including the Cotswold Way – plus guests can book access to the fabulous spa at sister property Calcot & Spa (p71).

Doubles from £269 +44 (0)1452 813688; thepainswick.co.uk

The Pheasant Hotel, Harome

Harome, North Yorkshire

Overlooking the village duck pond, The Pheasant is a charming country house retreat in Harome created from a former forge, village shop and a collection of barns. Inside, original oak beams and stone walls complement elegant interiors in so , natural tones, creating a restful atmosphere. In winter, the lounge and bar are both inviting with roaring res; in summer, the stone- agged terrace, shaded by trailing vines, becomes the perfect spot to relax. Twelve of the 16 rooms are in the main house; in the courtyard are two family- and dog-friendly suites, the romantic Plum Cottage, and the duplex Pheasant Suite. Last year, as the hotel marked its 40th anniversary, head chef Adam Westgarth joined the team, bringing a fresh energy to the food with his ingredientled take on modern British cooking. At the heart of this approach is the kitchen garden and the hotel’s working farm, which supplies regenerative crops, heritage-breed livestock and wild estate game. Guests can also enjoy an indoor heated pool, access to Yorkshire Spa Retreat and gun cabinets for shooting parties. An ideal place to switch o and unwind a er exploring the North York Moors.

Doubles from £220 +44 (0)1439 771241; thepheasanthotel.com

Penmaenuchaf Hotel

Eryri, North Wales

The fantastical landscape of Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park is spellbinding, and the stone-fronted mountain hideaway of Penmaenuchaf Hotel ts right in. Perched high above the Mawddach estuary at the foot of the rugged Cadair Idris, this grand country house is celebrating a new chapter with new owners Zoe and Neil Kedward. The couple took over in June 2022, growing their family business, Seren, a lovely collection of proudly Welsh hotels and restaurants. Penmaenuchaf has 14 delightful, individually designed bedrooms: traditional style and textures mingle with contemporary touches and a sprinkling of Welsh arts, cra s and antiques. In the kitchen, head chef Dan Andrée (formerly right-hand man to Hywel Gri th at Michelin-starred Beach House in Oxwich) and his talented team do a cracking job, using locally sourced seasonal ingredients. His menus are a true re ection of the land. Take your pick between bold, honest avours in the ne dining restaurant Afon or try Mynydd Restaurant and Bar for a relaxed bite, co ee or a cocktail. This gem of a retreat is the perfect base for exploring the extraordinary Eryri region.

Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1341 212121; penmaenuchaf.co.uk

Rothay Manor

Ambleside, Cumbria

Dating back to 1835, this handsome, white stucco Regency house sits in the heart of the Lake District at the northern tip of Lake Windermere – perfectly situated for lake strolls and hilly hikes – and a ten-minute walk from the pretty village of Ambleside. Since husbandand-wife duo Jenna and Jamie Shail took over a decade ago, they have put their stamp on this bucolic, boutique bolthole. The 23 rooms are split between the main house and a contemporary pavilion, and all have a restful fell and forest colour scheme peppered with opulent fabrics. Some come with balconies overlooking the landscaped gardens and wooded grounds. Of the eight Pavilion suites, four have their own private terrace, one of which also has a cedar wood hot tub. Head chef Simon Ulph – who led the kitchen at Michael Caines at The Sta ord to win a Michelin star – took the reins of Rothay Manor’s Rowan restaurant last year, o ering a seasonal modern British menu including a Sunday roast. Dogs are welcome: Rothay Manor even has a dedicated dog washroom with Ru and Tumble dressing gowns, so you can rinse o muddy paws a er a day exploring.

Doubles from £280

+44 (0)1539 433605; rothaymanor.co.uk

Priory Wareham

Wareham, Dorset

The setting of this former monastery and Grade II-listed country house hotel is sublime: sitting on the bank of the River Frome, it is surrounded by four acres of English cottage gardens. The history of the building, which dates to 809 AD as a monastery, is evident in each of the 17 charming rooms, many of which have original wooden beams. Some have views of the Purbeck Hills; others overlook the gardens or the inner courtyard. Choose between staying in the main house or the Boat House right by the water’s edge, with its vaulted ceilings, antiques and four-poster beds. Start the evening with an aperitif in JJ’s bar – or, in summer, on the terrace – before sitting down to try head chef Stephan Guinebault’s three-course dinner menu in The Garden Room restaurant (you can also book in for lunch from Wednesday to Sunday). The peaceful gardens are ideal for drinking morning co ee while reading the newspapers or a ernoon tea a er a day exploring the Dorset coastline. Gorgeous Studland Bay and Lulworth Cove are both a short drive away and there are plenty of hiking trails straight from the door.

Doubles from £199 +44 (0)1929 551666; priorywareham.co.uk

Tudor Farmhouse

Clearwell, Gloucestershire

In the heart of the Forest of Dean, surrounded by ancient woodland, this 16th-century farmhouse and its converted outbuildings have been transformed into a relaxing rural retreat – complete with roaring log res and wellies for guests to borrow by the front door for endless bucolic country walks. The 20 suites and rooms feature original beams, ashes of exposed stonework and calming, neutral colour schemes (many also come with a roll-top bath). The 14 acres of wild ower meadows are a protected Site of Special Scienti c Interest due to their rare plants, with foraging trips just one of many nature activities on o er. New head chef and Forest of Dean native Arron Christopher champions organic and hyper-local produce including vegetables and herbs from the grounds. At dinner, try his fantastic ‘20-mile’ menu, which includes koji-aged duck breast and panfried stone bass. Sunday lunch is also a real draw. If all that indulgence leaves you craving some fresh air, there’s something here for everyone – whether it’s canoeing on the River Wye, local salmon shing, visiting the Clearwell Caves, or wildlife safaris organised by the hotel.

Doubles from £139 +44 (0)1594 833046; tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk

Sancreed House Retreat

Sancreed, Cornwall

Once a former rectory, this stunning Georgian property dates to the 1820s. Now lovingly restored, it’s a luxurious adults-only B&B, set within 1.5 acres of private gardens just three miles from Penzance. The house borders the historic Sancreed Parish Church — on Sunday mornings, guests wake to the gentle chime of church bells, adding to the serene setting. There are four beautifully appointed suites (honeymooners will love the Peacock Suite) and three charming self-catering garden cottages, which were originally used by artist John Miller’s students. All have super comfortable pocket-sprung mattresses, beautiful linen, plush bathrobes and slippers, and vegan, cruelty-free products. Arrive to freshly baked scones and begin each morning with a home-cooked breakfast overlooking the gardens. Come evening, pre-book a platter of Cornish cheeses and mackerel pâté for a night in or head to one of the exceptional local restaurants. During the day, unwind beside the heated swimming pool or retreat to the garden spa, where a barrel sauna and log-heated baths await. Explore on e-bikes or venture to nearby St Michael’s Mount, Mousehole and St Ives.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1736 243012; sancreedhouse.com

Wild Duck

Ewen, Gloucestershire

Originally the gardener’s cottage to nearby Ewen Manor, this once-derelict, 16th-century coaching inn has been restored and just reopened as a pub with rooms. It has all the character we’ve come to expect from Sam and Georgie Pearman, the duo behind the Country Creatures group (which includes The Double Red Duke, p119) and formerly Cubitt House. The 19 bedrooms feature wallpaper by Zardi & Zardi, terracotta tiles, vintage lights and handmade rugs – but it’s the Gothic-style bar (inglenook replace, agstone oor, low-beamed ceiling) that’s the social heart of the place. Beers from local Uley Brewery and wines from leading vineyards in France and Italy make ideal accompaniments to the various snacks chalked up on the blackboard. As always, provenance and local suppliers dictate the dishes served in the restaurant: perhaps wood-roasted brown trout with beetroot and pink r potatoes, roast duck and turnip gratin, or a Sunday roast. Make the most of summer in the enclosed garden and top o your stay in the treatment rooms, where you can indulge in nourishing massages and facials using 100 Acres products.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1285 505606; countrycreatures.com

Whatley Manor Hotel & Spa

Malmesbury, Wiltshire

Tucked away in the Wiltshire countryside and set within 12 acres of gorgeous gardens, this Grade II-listed Cotswold manor makes for a restorative stay shaped by space, stillness and the quiet rhythm of nature. Winding paths and secluded corners invite guests to slow their pace and switch o from the everyday. Inside, there are 23 individually designed rooms and suites, as well as a spa centred around hydrotherapy, thermal experiences and deeply nourishing treatments – bespoke body massages, youth intensive facials – by the ethicallyminded Gaia and Sothys. Dining is a highlight in the Michelin-starred Dining Room, where chef Ricki Weston celebrates British ingredients with care and creativity. Do try the sn16 dessert, made using honey from the hotel’s colony of bees. There is also Grey’s — a more relaxed social experience. Close to Malmesbury, Tetbury, Highgrove and the natural beauty of Westonbirt Arboretum, the setting invites both exploration and moments of pause. With its EarthCheck-recognised commitment to sustainability, this is considered, soulful, gently welcoming hospitality at its nest.

Doubles from £429 +44 (0)1666 822888; whatleymanor.com

Coastal Stays

Oh we do like to be beside the seaside... (come rain or shine)

Fish Suppers

Where to find Blighty’s best seaside grub, by Francesca Syz

1THE LOBSTER SHOP

Johnshaven, Scotland

There’s an ‘if you know, you know’ vibe about this no-frills sh shop (and café) in the pretty Aberdeenshire village of Johnshaven, which has been run by the same family for almost 80 years. Until the pandemic, its entire focus was supplying seafood to restaurants and wholesalers around the UK but then the kids suggested they also start serving outrageous lobster toasties, lobster rolls, crab cakes, dressed crabs and sometimes wine to locals across the counter and everyone went mad for it. When I say café, I mean a handful of sea-facing wooden picnic tables outside the back door, but what more do you need? thelobster.shop

2CAFFI TOPCAT

Pwllheli, North Wales

Welsh lobsterman

Brett Garner and his chef wife Nia had long dreamt of opening a cafe and shop that championed Welsh seafood. Last summer they did, in a converted outbuilding at their home on the Llyn Peninsula, which just happens to be the most amazing hillside spot overlooking Porth Neigwl (Hell’s Mouth) bay. It takes a bit of e ort to get there but between the warm welcome and the amazing seafood (Nia’s lobster thermidor pie is just one of the excellent things on the menu), it’s well worth it. There are tables both in and outside and you can walk down to the sea in about 15 minutes. +44 (0)7855 390550

3 THE COMPANY SHED

West Mersea, Essex Built right on the beach in 1876 for a local oyster shery, Heather Haward and her late husband Richard, a seventhgeneration oysterman on the island, took it over in 1985 to run their own small-scale shell sh business. A er their daughter Caz took over running the place in 2005, it gradually developed into the much-loved rustic seafood restaurant and shmonger it is today, o ering the freshest crab imaginable, as well as mussels, mackerel, salmon, herring, cockles and prawns available in single portions or glorious sharing platters. All this can be enjoyed at indoor or outdoor tables or to take away. the-company-shed.com

4HARRY’S SHACK

Portstewart, Northern Ireland

Harry’s in Donegal had been a favourite dining spot of my Irish in-laws for many years when they announced they were opening a second Harry’s in the seaside town of Portstewart on Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast, so it was a relief to see what a great job they did. While not exactly a ‘shack’, this cosy restaurant with a woodburning stove does sit on the wild and beautiful Portstewart Strand beachfront, with outdoor tables and a relaxed, kick-oyour-shoes vibe. Its menu is strong on sh and seafood –shack sh and chips, Mulroy Bay mussels – but also on burgers and rib-eye steaks. harrysshack.app

5

JOJO’S MEAT, MEZE & FISH RESTAURANT

Whitstable, Kent

As someone who can get dizzy with excitement at the prospect of seafood, I always eat too much in Whitstable. That’s why one of the many good things about JoJo’s is that it’s actually in Tankerton, which is a bit of a jaunt up the seafront, so you can walk it o a bit. It looks tiny from the outside but is a cavernous room within, which still manages to feel supremely cosy on a blustery day. It’s popular with families because it’s so relaxed and then there’s the Mediterranean-in uenced menu – all delicious. My favourites include the grilled sardines and the mutton and feta ko as. jojosrestaurant.co.uk

6PORTHGWIDDEN CAFÉ

St Ives, Cornwall

Very much a case of hidden in plain sight, this is the wonderful, tucked-away little sibling of probably the most famous restaurant in St Ives – Porthminster Beach Café. Cute little Porthgwidden Beach Café, on the other hand, sits on the secret sandy cove that is Porthgwidden Beach, just around the corner from Porthmeor Beach and if you didn’t know it was there, you’d walk right past. Bag a table and get stuck into an international menu that mixes up classics like beer-battered sh and chips with more global options like fresh burrata salad, so shell tacos and Parma ham and blue cheese salad. porthgwiddencafe.co.uk

7 HIVE BEACH CAFÉ

Bridport, Dorset

People have an almost religious fervour about this long-standing Bridport institution in the most amazing spot right above the beach. There is no better place for a lazy summer lunch than the outdoor terrace, enjoying elevated comfort food made from the freshest local ingredients. The Hive sh soup is incredible, as is the hake orzo paella with mussels and prawns. And the crab sandwich. I could go on. But there are also excellent non- sh and child-friendly options. Or you could forget all that and pop in later in the a ernoon for an Aperol Spritz or an elder ower mojito. hivebeachcafe.co.uk

‘Porthgwidden Beach café sits on the secret sandy cove – if you didn’t know it was there, you’d walk right past’

9

THE OLD TOWN BEACH CAFÉ Hunstanton, Norfolk

8PERCH ON THE PIER

Worthing, Sussex

As a rule I’m sceptical about restaurants on piers as they tend to be lowquality, touristy rip-o s but this one is cut from a di erent cloth. The third restaurant in a small group, the rst was (and remains) a cool little place right on Lancing Beach. This one in Worthing involved the complete restoration of the Southern Pavilion at the end of Worthing Pier and is now a beautiful space serving easy, delicious food all day. Expect Bloody Marys and plant-based full Englishes for breakfast, Korean fried chicken burgers and poke plates for lunch and tomahawk sharer steaks for dinner. It’s a yes from me. perchonthepier.com

Down an unmarked track right on beautiful Hunstanton beach, opposite the lifeboat station, this pretty and welcoming clapboard café is a great place. Come a er a scamper on the sand for a bacon buttie, a warming stilton and parsnip soup or, if you’re staying locally and time it right, something more elaborate at one of their pop-up evening meal events. They’re also strong on vegetarian and vegan options like sweet potato patties with poached eggs, avocado and spinach and superfood bubble and squeak. +44 (0)1485 532931

10SUZIE’S BEACH CAFÉ

Southwold, Suffolk

Southwold is not short on cafés but this one, run by a dynamic team of women, is a cut above and for bonus points, it’s right on the beach promenade (just down the steps from the Lord Nelson pub). Owner and chef Suzie (originally from Bavaria) has brought a bit of Mediterranean air to easy seaside dining, with delicious homemade sandwiches, from crispy bacon and gooey brie to the freshest prawns. It’s also an excellent place for fresh co ee and cake. suziesbeachcafe.co.uk ■

Hell Bay Hotel

Bryher, Isles of Scilly

Perched on Bryher’s wild west coast, this stunning waterfront hotel blends California cool with Atlantic charm. Created by the Dorrien-Smith family, stewards of nearby Tresco, it o ers a rare combination of untamed beauty and e ortless elegance. The hotel’s 25 lightlled suites mix antique charm with contemporary sophistication and sweeping sea views. Relax with morning yoga, swim in the heated outdoor pool, or enjoy a bespoke massage in the Treatment Shed, while the family room o ers air hockey, games and creative activities. Picnic on hidden beaches, kayak through crystal-clear waters, and hike along rugged coastal trails. Dining is exceptional: head chef Richard Kearsley uses the nest ingredients from the islands, Cornwall, and the wider West Country. Choose between Scilly’s only threeAA rosette restaurant which delivers island-inspired dishes, while The Crab Shack serves just-caught seafood. At Hell Bay, luxury isn’t loud – it’s elemental and deeply considered. Plus this remote paradise is easier to reach than you might think: a helicopter ight from Cornwall to Tresco, followed by a short boat ride to Bryher’s shores.

Doubles from £105 per person

+44 (0)1720 422947; hellbay.co.uk

Carbis Bay Estate

St Ives, Cornwall

Complete with its own 25-acre Blue Flag beach on the edge of St Ives, Carbis Bay is a dreamy Cornish coastal escape – which most famously hosted world leaders at the G7 summit in 2021. The biggest decision is whether to stay in the main house, in the suites and cottages in the wooded valley (ideal for families or larger groups wanting a little more space), or by the water’s edge in a luxury beach lodge, which comes with its own hot tub and private garden. You’re spoilt for choice with food too, from the bay-side Walter’s on The Beach cocktail bar and restaurant (which has an alfresco terrace for sundowner barrel-aged negronis), to Tom Sellers’ MOR, opening this summer. There’s also the recently extended Beach Club Restaurant; a deli on the promenade; and The Orangery restaurant, added as part of the renovation in 2021 when the big guns came to town. Part of the same revamp is the enhanced C Bay Spa, which has candlelit treatment rooms for heavenly Bamford facials, a hydropool, sauna and – the star of the show – an outdoor in nity pool with sensational views of the bay below.

Doubles from £225 +44 (0)1736 795311; carbisbayhotel.co.uk

The Old Coastguard

Mousehole, Cornwall

Of all the properties in Charles and Edmund Inkin’s collection of e ortlessly laid-back places to stay (also including Felin Fach Gri n, p153), this has the best location. Overlooking the ocean in the enchanting shing village of Mousehole, The Old Coastguard has been a hotel since Victorian times and boasts 14 attractive, mostly sea-facing bedrooms. All have superb beds, Roberts Radios, natural Reia products, auction room nds, local art and striped curtains. Downstairs in the open-plan bar and dining room, tuck into delicious dishes showcasing local ingredients cooked by head chef Olly Gardner. There’s an excellent wine list, too; keep an eye out for Bottle Shop Thursdays, where you can try lovely wines for less. During your stay, make the most of the vista: the sun- lled sitting area runs the length of the ground oor. Lazing there, looking through the palm trees and agapanthus – or reclining on the new sun terrace just above the rocks (complete with The Crab Shack in warmer months) – you’ll keep delaying your departure by another hour. It’s that kind of place. Happily, there are dinner and breakfast o ers across the year.

Doubles from £195

+44 (0)1736 731222; oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk

The Idle Rocks

St Mawes, Cornwall

Perched on the rocks in the heart of St Mawes on the beautiful Roseland Peninsula, The Idle Rocks features 19 individually designed bedrooms, providing the ultimate seaside escape. This intimate, Michelin Key hotel – part of the Relais & Châteaux collection – boasts a south-facing terrace for drinks and dining, o ering spectacular sea views across the harbour and beyond. At The Reef Knot Restaurant, executive chef Guy Owen showcases the best of Cornwall, with a strong focus on seafood. Expect seasonal dishes built around local ingredients and the daily catch from the hotel’s own sherman. Whether you’re seeking coastal walks, wild swimming, sailing lessons or simply the restorative calm of the sea, the hotel is perfectly positioned for both adventure and tranquillity. Tucked away upstairs, SEVAN Spa o ers holistic therapies and skincare rituals – perfect for unwinding a er a day on the water. Re ecting pure Cornish style and understated elegance, The Idle Rocks is a year-round boutique haven. Just a short stroll away, sister property St Mawes Hotel o ers a lively bar, sea-view restaurant and hidden cinema.

Doubles from £350  +44 (0)1326 270270; idlerocks.com

The PIG – At Harlyn Bay

Padstow, Cornwall

‘Which is your favourite PIG?’ It’s a tough question but this one o en comes trotting to mind rst. The hotel is a brooding, mysterious beauty overlooking sweeping Harlyn Bay near Padstow. It’s a sure- re hit, with dark, velvety interiors behind dramatic Cornish slate walls and heavy oak doors that were inspired, says designer Judy Hutson, by the stillness of Mark Rylance in Wolf Hall. Contrast these rich and opulent rooms with a clutch of wonderful wagons to complement the bedrooms in the house and sympathetic new Stonehouse wing, and lawns strewn with wooden easy chairs and wild owers. In the airy bistro, avoursome Cornish dishes are made with ingredients plucked straight from the kitchen gardens or sourced from local farmers, while the casual, seasonal Lobster Shed restaurant serves up crowd-pleasing seafood and chargrilled steaks on the terrace. On top of all that is a great wine cellar, and two treatment huts if visiting for an ultimate wellness break. It’s a special place with a special atmosphere, and one that is as pleasing in winter as it is in summer. Though only opened six years ago, this PIG feels as if it has been here forever.

Doubles from £260

+44 (0)345 225 9494; thepighotel.com

The Pierhouse Hotel

Port Appin, Argyll

Surrounded by the raw, breathtaking beauty of western Scotland, The Pierhouse sits on the shores of Loch Linnhe. It’s the ideal base for exploring this unforgettable part of the world while indulging in the nest local produce. The 12 comfortable bedrooms, some with loch views, look out directly across to the islands of Lismore and Shuna, with the Morvern Peninsula beyond. Location aside, a stay here is all about the seafood. Head chef Michael Leathley leads the two-AA rosette restaurant, one of only three in Argyll listed in the Michelin Guide, where he describes his unpretentious cooking style as ‘bringing the outside in’. Expect the freshest West coast seafood – such as creel-caught langoustines and Loch Creran oysters – alongside Scottish meats and vegetables, all prepared using simple yet re ned techniques. A er a day spent hiking or biking, relax in the lounge by the wood-burning stove, or head to The Ferry Bar – named a er the foot passenger ferry that has been running from Port Appin since 1750. The bar boasts an impressive selection of Scottish gins and over 200 types of malt whisky to sample.

Doubles from £155 +44 (0)1631 730302; pierhousehotel.co.uk

The Pig – On The Beach

Studland, Dorset

With its wacky profusion of turrets, gargoyles, stone casements and overlapping tiles on steep roofs, this enchanting 18th-century house will bring an instant smile to your face and memories of tales of Hansel and Gretel. As for the views? You’ll be entranced, especially looking across the sheep- ecked green elds and the sea to Old Harry Rocks (even the Sheep Hut spa treatment rooms have the same soul-soothing outlook). Built as a grand summer house on a cli above Studland Bay, this is a much-loved seaside sibling in the droves of PIG hotels, and it positively brims with charm. In addition to the usual conservatory restaurant (with signature ‘25-mile’ menu) and walled kitchen garden, there are quirkily di erent bedrooms. This includes two charming shepherd’s huts: each has a bedroom and bathroom hut and a lounge hut with a sun deck, boasting the best vistas in the house. There’s a buzzy outdoor bar with a wood- red oven for sourdough pizzas, and a private dining room in a dreamy, thatched hut on the lawn overlooking the cli s – perfect for gatherings of up to 12. A thrilling, wildly popular hotel.

Doubles from £350; +44 (0)1929 450288; thepighotel.com

The Seafood Restaurant

Padstow, Cornwall

Padstow is synonymous with Rick and Jill Stein. And if a restaurant can be a hub, then Rick’s famous Seafood Restaurant, fresh from celebrating 50 years, is just that. Red-aproned waiters whizz about in the airy, colourful dining room and a chandelier made of bobbing white sh creates an eye-catching start to your meal. The menu showcases the best of local and sustainable seafood. Alternatively, eat at St Petroc’s Bistro, Rick Stein’s Café, Stein’s Fish & Chips, or spend the day at Rick’s cookery school. As for sleeping, choose from a variety of stylish lodgings, each designed by Jill and Kate Stein (their daughter-in-law), and set in charming buildings around Padstow. There are stunning rooms above The Seafood Restaurant, while the simplest can be found above the café and the most luxurious in St Edmunds House, which has oak oors and views across the Camel Estuary. You’ll nd four sunny rooms in Prospect House and a further ten in St Petroc’s. For a romantic retreat, one-bedroom Bryn cottage has estuary views and a secluded garden. Finally, for the more adventurous, six shepherd’s huts o er beautiful countryside accommodation.

Doubles from £183

+44 (0)1841 532700; rickstein.com

Portrush Adelphi

Portrush, Northern Ireland

The latest hotel to join the Marine & Lawn collection is the Portrush Adelphi, a reimagined seaside stay that reopened last year. It’s just ve miles from Giant’s Causeway – making it a great place to bed down while exploring the golden sand beaches of Northern Ireland’s spectacular coastline – and a few minutes’ drive from the prestigious Royal Portrush Golf Club, home to one of the most challenging courses in the world. Rooms feature dramatic, green and blue jewel tones that nod to the surrounding landscape, classic tartan bedheads, and bespoke furniture. The social hub of the hotel is the Red Sail Room bar and restaurant, where locally sourced Irish ingredients and Mediterranean-inspired techniques meet regional Italian favourites: think chicken Milanese, spicy meatball marinara and whisky-cured salmon llet on the all-day menu. For anyone who misses lunch, sandwiches are served in the a ernoon – plus, there is a ernoon tea Friday to Sunday, and a Sunday roast. In summer, activity highlights include boat trips, sea swims and cli path walks; in winter, Dunluce Castle and Old Bushmills Distillery await.

Doubles from £199 +44 (0)28 7082 5544; marineandlawn.com

Trewornan Manor

Wadebridge, Cornwall

Paul and Lesley Stapleton are natural hosts and have created a laid-back and welcoming home-from-home set in 25 acres of mature gardens. They rescued this handsome Grade II-listed manor in 2014, retaining the original architectural features while transforming it into a tranquil, adults-only B&B. The seven bedrooms are beautifully decorated, and each has its own charm: in an annexe adjoining the main house, Finisterre is the most spacious with high ceilings and wooden beams, while Greenaway has a lovely window seat overlooking the courtyard. All bathrooms have walk-in showers. Plus, there is the Boat Store, a one-bedroom, self-catering cottage with a private patio. Social spaces include a light, airy sitting room and a cosy snug where tea and homemade cake (made by Paul’s mum) is served. Log res, delicious breakfasts and an honesty bar ensure guests can kick back and relax. The location, on the outskirts of Wadebridge and close to the Camel Estuary, is within striking distance of some of North Cornwall’s best and prettiest towns, beaches, golf courses and Michelin-starred restaurants in Port Isaac and Padstow.

Doubles from £175 +44 (0)1208 812359; trewornanmanor.co.uk

Slieve Donard

Newcastle, County Down

Originally built by the Belfast and County Down Railway in the 19th century as an end-of-the-line holiday destination, this Victorian hotel is anked by a golden beach on one side and the world-famous Royal County Down golf course on the other. Now part of the Marine & Lawn collection, the hotel’s recently-renovated rooms are decorated in nature-inspired greens, with checked carpets and oral bedheads. The Mourne Mountains are on the doorstep, o ering fantastic walking and climbing opportunities, while Tollymore Forest Park is a few minutes away by car (the hotel is also only 30 miles south of Belfast and 90 miles north of Dublin). Make sure you pay a visit to the spa, which has a pool, steam room and sauna, plus a tness studio, Zen studio (for classes such as yoga and tai chi) and Espa treatments. And there are four restaurants to choose from for drinking and dining: J.J. Farrall’s, with its burgundy leather banquette seats, greenery-hung ceiling, open re and locally sourced fare; the cosy Lighthouse Lounge café in the spa; The Wolf bar for Carlingford oysters and draught beers; and The Percy French for pub classics.

Doubles from £220 +44 (0)28 4372 1066; marineandlawn.com

Twr y Felin Hotel

Pembrokeshire, Wales

Once a 19th-century windmill, this boutique hotel sits on the breathtaking peninsula of St Davids, Britain’s smallest city. Over 250 specially commissioned artworks celebrate the local landscape, setting the tone in the minimalist bedrooms. Opt for a Windmill room with charming original features or an Oriel room for a sleek, modern aesthetic; some have sweeping sea views while others are dog-friendly, with a private terrace. The award-winning, three-AA rosette Blas restaurant serves a seasonal menu featuring fresh seafood and dishes inspired by traditional Welsh avours, all with a modern British twist. Indulge in ne dining, relaxed lunches, a ernoon tea, or all-day bar options complemented by an extensive wine list, cra cocktails and locally brewed ales. By day, wander to stunning Caerfai Bay, visit historic St Davids Cathedral, take a boat trip to Ramsey Island for spectacular wildlife, or hike the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. A erwards, unwind in the spa, with treatments that span massages, re exology and reiki. The hotel also regularly hosts events, from thought-provoking talks and live music to art classes, ensuring every stay is enriching.

Doubles from £180; +44 (0)1437 725555; twryfelinhotel.com

Pubs & Inns

You can’t visit the UK without a quiet pint in a village pub

The New Publicans

As thousands of pubs close their doors, a new wave of passionate publicans are stepping in to revive Britain’s most cherished institution, says Fiona Duncan

f ever there was a story of hope over experience, it’s the story of the great British pub in the 21st century. On the one hand, more than 8,000 pubs have closed in the latest decade and there has never been a more daunting or di cult time to own one; on the other hand, the thirst for warm, comforting hubs rooted in community is growing rather than diminishing. Most of us still see pubs as a core British institution and the best place to socialise with friends.

We would be lost and lonely without our pubs. How lucky, then, that in the face of a storm of challenges –soaring operational costs, high taxation and business rates, wage rises, thin margins and cash ow problems, not to mention the cost of making old, o en listed buildings t for purpose – a new breed of publican is bravely stepping across the thresholds of Dogs and Ducks, Foxes and Hounds and Corks and Bottles. They are not just preserving but enhancing convivial, characterful and heartwarming havens for anyone who wants to meet, chat, laugh and leave their phones at home. Whether hospitality entrepreneurs, celebrities, millionaires or groups of volunteers bent on saving their local, these new publicans deserve our thanks.

‘It’s saved our village, simple as that,’ says my friend Paul about the reopening of The Royal Oak, Great Wishford, ‘and it’s refreshingly down to earth, not a fancy restaurant masquerading as a pub.’ Most revived pubs, whether community-run, part of a brewery or hospitality group, or privately owned, see the provision of food as crucial, and many are rst and foremost restaurants,

with no more than a couple of stools at the bar for locals. Not so The Royal Oak, which was taken on in 2024 by local entrepreneur Joe Robinson ‘to create an a ordable place for villagers to socialise and to showcase beers from my Rude Giant Brewery’. With no frills beyond a pool table and two darts teams, Robinson can keep costs down, keep the pub open seven days a week and keep his legion of customers happy. ‘I’m not in it for a decent pro t, but this way I can at least cover costs.’

Before Robinson took it on, The Royal Oak had been run by a committee of villagers, who struggled to make it work. Community pubs are springing up all over the country but escalating costs and the need for joint decisions (‘it’s so much easier with just one person in charge’) mean that they are an admirable but daunting option for saving one’s local. The Angler’s Rest in the Peak District, with rooms, Post O ce and café, is a case in point. It became Derbyshire’s rst community inn back in 2013 but last year it ran into di culties and has now been taken on by one landlord, Rick Ellison, who has saved no less than four other pubs in the region. Another pub saviour is millionaire Robert Thomas who has rescued 17 forgotten boozers and Victorian gin palaces across London. ‘I’ve turned them into pro table businesses,’ he says, citing freehold ownership, genial sta , good beer at a fair price, quality food and authentic interiors as the keys to success and pro tability.

Thomas was one of the earliest among the new wave of early 21st-century publicans who have revamped and revived dead or dying

hostelries. Others, whose inns are still beacons of good living around 20 years on, include Edmund and Charlie Inkin at The Gurnard’s Head in Cornwall; Ivor Braka at The Gunton Arms in Norfolk; Charlie Luxton and Dan Brod at The Beckford Arms in Wiltshire; Andrew Russell at The Cat Inn in West Sussex; Anthony and Jeanette Goodrich at The Rose and Crown, Norfolk; Thomas and Cheryl Robinson at The Rose and Crown at Romaldkirk, Co. Durham; and John and Steph Ilsley at The East End Arms near Lymington, to name a few.

While there are plenty of external challenges to success, the truth is that either new publicans have what it takes to create a successful venue or they don’t. For those of us looking for an a ordable place to stay for a break in the countryside that’s both stylish and characterful, posh pubs and inns provide the answer and in the last few years there have been many

‘It’s saved our village, simple as that – and it’s refreshingly down to earth, not a fancy restaurant masquerading as a pub’

Paul Horsley, The Royal Oak, Great Wishford

notable successes across the country from new publicans such as Angus Davies at The Swan at Fittleworth, West Sussex; Annoushka Ducas and John Ayton at The Horse and Groom in East Ashling, also West Sussex; Tom Noest and Peter Creed at The Bell, Langford in the Cotswolds; Laura and Johnny Greenall at The Duncombe Arms in Sta ordshire; and Alex Winch and Sam Fiddian-Green at The Merry Harriers in Surrey.

And then there are the pub groups. The East Anglian Chestnut Group has no less than 20 pubs, while in the West Country, the Chickpea Group has grown to ten pubs in just ve years. Latest is The Fleur de Lys in Cranborne. ‘We were rubbish at the beginning,’ laughs co-owner Ethan Davids, ‘but we’re young, we’re learning and we passionately believe in pubs. We train our sta professionally and we adhere to MALT: Music, Atmosphere, Lighting, Temperature.’ In short, the Chickpea Group is nding ways to bring a contemporary vibe to traditional pubs and largely succeeding. Look out also for the Public House Group headed by friends Phil Winser, James Gummer and Olivier van Themsche with The Pelican in London and The Bull in Charlbury, whose emphasis is on farm to fork food. And for Jack Greenall’s London-based Wren Group, whose The Surprise (Chelsea), The Walmer Castle (Notting Hill) and The

Carpenter’s Arms (Chiswick) have all been lovingly and triumphantly restored.

Historic breweries, whose tenanted pubs have o en lacked pizzazz, are also jumping on the bandwagon: both Butcombe and Young & Co’s stand out. Check out their boutique bedrooms in pubs such as The Welldiggers Arms, Petworth; The High Corner Inn, New Forest (both Butcombe); and The Canford, Poole (Young & Co’s). Even hotels, such as The Pigs, are getting in on the act: there’s already one Pig pub – The Village Pub in Barnsley, Cotswolds – and more are in the pipeline because ‘people are looking for connection, calmness and community,’ says CEO Kevin Styles. The Rectory in Crudwell has its own pub, The Potting Shed, as does Thyme, also in the Cotswolds (The Swan). Lime Wood in the New Forest would love to add a local pub to its o ering to guests, aware how many of them ask for recommendations during their stay.

Eighty years ago, in an essay for the Evening Standard , George Orwell described his idea of the perfect pub. While not many of his rules (middle-aged barmaids who call you ‘dear’; liver-sausage sandwiches; stout in a pewter pot) are relevant today, his love – and our love – and need for traditional pubs remains unchanged. All over the country, despite all the obstacles, new publicans are rising to the challenge. ■

The Cat Inn

West Hoathly, West Sussex

A spell at The Cat will leave you purring with contentment. With its regulars chatting at the bar, its blazing re in the huge inglenook, its hops, pewter tankards, and mix of airy and cosy dining areas, this early 16th-century, timber-framed village inn exudes character and bonhomie. Landlord Andrew Russell, previously the general manager at nearby Gravetye Manor, combines professionalism with a natural air for people. As for the food from chef duo Scott Ryan and Simon Coote, there’s no trumpeting or fuss and as a result, its superb quality is all the more delightful. ‘I recommend the pie and chips,’ says Russell – and what a steak, mushroom and ale pie it is. Leave space for a homemade pud, too: perhaps dark chocolate tart or apple, pear and blackberry nut crumble. Upstairs there are four attractive bedrooms: one is a suite with a dining area; another has a view of the pretty church. In the morning, a er a sophisticated breakfast worthy of Gravetye, follow the path through the churchyard for a spectacular view across the valley or spend the day visiting the many beautiful gardens and vineyards nearby.

Doubles from £180

+44 (0)1342 810369; catinn.co.uk

The Bradley Hare Inn

Maiden Bradley, Wiltshire

Opened in February 2026, this stylish country inn in the small village of Maiden Bradley is the latest addition to the Beckford Group, whose properties include The Beckford Arms, The Bath Arms and The Talbot Inn. Surrounded by the West Wiltshire Downs, the location is the big thing here, with lots of fabulous walks – plus the liveliness of Frome, Bruton and Bath are within easy reach. That said, you’ll nd it hard to leave. It’s all super cosy with centuries-old oak furniture, a charming sitting room with roaring res and deep antique chairs, alongside a terrace and small garden. Set within the pub and the Coach House, there are 12 beautifully appointed bedrooms. Each has sumptuous beds with Siberian goose down duvets, 18th- and 19th-century pieces and grand rolltop baths with Bramley products. Don’t miss the little larder, stocked with the best local produce. The food is excellent: headed up by chef Jaek Kelly, the kitchen serves classic seasonal pub food shaped by the South West larder – plus a well-stocked bar of local beers and world-class wines to boot. Be sure to sleep it o , as morning promises a hearty breakfast spread.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1985 801018; bradleyhare.com

The Bull Inn

Totnes, Devon

This radically ethical pub with rooms at the top of Totnes High Street is run with a people-and-planet- rst ethos and guided by a triumvirate of its own ‘no-bull rules’ for how to dine, trade and work in the most eco-minded way possible. That means organic beer and wine alongside simple, seasonal veg-led food (grown not own), day-boat sh and ‘mindful meat’ for the daily changing menu in the restaurant. Highlights include hogget chop with whipped tahini, chilli honey, sumac onions and dukkah, or pollock with fennel, chicory and pangritata. Opposite the pub is also the recently-opened Albatross Pizza Shop, which serves a fabulous seasonal menu which changes weekly. Nine sustainably designed rooms feature lime-plastered walls, reclaimed furniture, reworked vintage fabrics, handmade tiles, organic mattresses and linens, and artisan-made lighting. None of this comes as a surprise when you learn that the owner is Geetie Singh-Watson, who opened the world’s rst o cially organic pub, The Duke of Cambridge in Islington, in 1998. For families, there is The Albatross, a four-bedroom, self-catering apartment across the road with a private terrace.

Doubles from £130; +44 (0)1803 640040; bullinntotnes.co.uk

The Collective at Woolsery

Woolsery, Devon

Set in the pretty village of Woolsery in North Devon, The Collective is the genius creation of tech entrepreneurs Michael and Xochi Birch. In 2018, the couple transformed local pub The Farmers Arms into a fantastic restaurant, steeped in humour and style. Since then, they have breathed new life into the local chippy, village store and Post O ce and a 150 acre farm. There are a handful of beautiful cottages, suites and rooms housed in village buildings, from the retro-feminine Shop Suite 1 with its fabulous pastel palette to a former smithy-turned-contemporary cottage for two. Families will love Hillside Cottage, with its four roomy bedrooms. Foodies are kept happy: headed up by chef Toby Neal, the kitchen knocks out unapologetically British classics on the Pub Menu and pulls out all the stops on the ve-course Birch Farm Tasting Menu, using produce foraged or straight from the farm. Don’t miss the sharing style Sunday Lunch. Locally brewed ales and beers alongside unusual wines, seasonal cocktails and so drinks cra ed from own-made syrups and cordials line the cosy bar. The picturesque towns of Bideford, Barnstaple and Bude are also nearby.

Doubles from £220; +44 (0)1237 488480; woolsery.com

The Felin Fach Griffin

Brecon, Powys

This was the rst of Edmund and Charles Inkin’s three wonderfully unpretentious and enjoyable establishments (including The Old Coastguard, p138). Set amid magni cent scenery between the Black Mountains and the Brecon Beacons, the old inn has become a sanctuary for food lovers, walkers and bookish visitors to nearby Hay-on-Wye. Guests love the honest simplicity and warm welcome, along with the colourful and comfortable interiors. Ground- oor public rooms – such as the Library, Tack Room and Aga Room – o er cosy retreats, while upstairs, the bedrooms boast the best beds around, complete with Welsh blankets and British-produced, natural Reia products in the bathrooms. Curl up with a book, listen to your Roberts Radio or gaze out at the hills (room eight, at the top of the building, o ers a glorious vantage point over the elds beyond). A er a re ned dinner cooked by head chef Gwenann Davies, featuring the nest local ingredients and a fantastic wine list, you will head to bed with a big smile on your face. And don’t miss Bottle Shop Tuesdays, where you can try lovely wines for less.

Doubles from £185

+44 (0)1874 620111; felinfachgri n.co.uk

Coorie Inn Restaurant & Rooms

Muthill, Crieff

Nestled in Muthill, a historic village in the foothills of the Scottish Highlands, this former 18th-century coaching inn has nailed that wonderful balance of being somewhere a little less formal yet with elegant bedrooms and top-notch cuisine. Six stylish bedrooms feature plush beds and stunning en-suite bathrooms, each beautifully furnished with quirky accents and elegant touches, complementing a rich colour scheme. There are cots available for babies and well-behaved dogs are welcome too. Its award-winning AA rosette restaurant features local fare with a creative twist, using locally sourced ingredients, including catch of the day from the local sh market. In the morning, a hearty Scottish breakfast will set you up for the day and to tackle one of the stunning hikes nearby. There’s also the grouse moor – keen shots will appreciate the police-approved gun cupboard on site. The world-famous Gleneagles Estate is a stone’s throw away for a round of golf. A erwards, unwind with a local beer beside a roaring re in the bar. The friendly sta top it o , o ering menu recommendations, wine pairings, and insider tips on the area.

Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1764 681773; coorie-inn.com

The Horse & Groom

East Ashling, West Sussex

The Horse & Groom is renowned for its delicious food, served in the dining room which has a backdrop of mid 20th-century paintings, a handcrafted oak floor, and collections of Italian sardine pots and vintage gardening books. This centuries-old former blacksmith’s shop turned public house was restored by John Ayton and his wife jeweller Annoushka Ducas. There are ten cosy rooms, all with traditional oak furniture, exposed wooden beams, a palette of calming hues and artwork from the owners’ collection. Guests can polish off dishes such as Calcot Farm aged steaks or a Sunday roast with all the trimmings. The locals’ bar, with its stone floors and welcoming fire, offers superb beers on tap. Winter brings a series of guest chefs, with Thomasina Miers, Rowley Leigh and Michel Roux Jr. among them, reflecting the kitchen’s standing under Luke Cochran. Located in East Ashling, four miles west of Chichester on the edge of the South Downs National Park, The Horse & Groom is very popular with walkers and those attending local highlights such as Glorious Goodwood, Goodwood Revival, Chichester Festival Theatre or Pallant House.

Doubles from £147.50

+44 (0)1243 575339; thehorseandgroom.pub

The

Gunton Arms

Thorpe Market, Norfolk

Set on the edge of a private deer park within the Gunton Estate, this pub with rooms has been reimagined with remarkable flair. Originally the steward’s house, it was transformed in 2011 by art dealer Ivor Braka, with interiors by the late Robert Kime. Behind its gabled flint façade, the pub strikes a balance between rustic grandeur and eccentricity. Rooms are layered with rich textiles and antique furnishings, offset with contemporary art by Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst and Lucian Freud. Bathrooms, clad in reclaimed marble sourced from historic Alexandrian villas, add a note of quiet indulgence. At its heart lies the dining room: centred around an open fire, this is where head chef Stuart Tattersall oversees a daily changing menu rooted in the best of Norfolk’s larder, while his wife, Simone, leads the front of house. Expect estate-reared venison, organic produce from the pub’s walled garden, and seafood from the nearby coast (such as Cromer crab). Cooking is confident and elemental, allowing exceptional ingredients to speak for themselves, while long, sharing tables create a convivial yet quietly refined atmosphere.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1263 832010; theguntonarms.co.uk

The Harcourt Arms

Stanton Harcourt, Cotswolds

Just a short drive from Oxford, this 17th-century pub sits in the charming Oxfordshire village of Stanton Harcourt. While it ticks all the boxes of a lovely village pub – cosy nooks and crannies, roaring log res and wood burners – it has the feel of a stylish, baronial countryside manor. The 12 rooms are comfortable and cosy: the family room sleeps four; accessible Burford has direct access to the garden; two suites, including the regal Blenheim, feature beamed vaulted ceilings, leather sofas and wooden four-poster beds. The atmosphere is both rare ed and relaxing. Sink into a sofa by the re to enjoy a cocktail, glass of wine or one of the many ne ales on o er. When you feel peckish, order classic dishes like spatchcock poussin or bar snacks such as the renowned wild boar Scotch egg with piccalilli, which you can eat on the charming summer terraces. Service and attention to detail is excellent, and as the gateway to the Cotswolds, there is plenty to do – from pottering around towns like Witney and Burford to concerts at Blenheim Palace and retail therapy at Bicester Village.

Doubles from £110; +44 (0)1865 416516; theharcourtarms.com

The Methuen Arms

Corsham, Wiltshire

Standing on Corsham’s charming high street, this characterful coaching inn is an ideal gateway to the Wiltshire countryside, whether you want to spend your days on dog walks in Corsham Park or visiting nearby Bath. The building’s handsome façade is Georgian, just like many of its neighbours’, including the stately home and beautiful grounds of Corsham Court next door. Food is front and centre here, with a focus on local and seasonal produce (much of which is sourced from the on-site kitchen garden) and an innovative take on pub classics. Spend your stay in one of 19 bedrooms, each reassuringly calm with comfy armchairs and Roberts radios. Outside, a pergola-covered and heated terrace, donned with festoon lights and foliage, is the perfect spot for al fresco drinking and dining. And while there might be a convivial buzz in the bar downstairs (where the Duke of Edinburgh once played skittles and darts with his compatriots from the HMS Arthur naval training school in Corsham), all is cool and harmonious in the decoration: think Farrow & Ball colours, stone and wood oors, tweed cushions and leather banquettes.

Doubles from £125

+44 (0)1249 717060; themethuenarms.co.uk

The Merry Harriers

Goldalming, Surrey

Set within the pretty village of Hambledon in the Surrey Hills, this historic pub was given a new lease of life at the end of 2023 when it was taken over by Alex Winch and Sam Fiddian-Green – best known as owners of the nearby, beloved Hilltop Kitchen. At The Merry Harriers, guests can expect farm-to-fork dining centred around local and seasonal produce (including from the pub’s own farm) and a daily changing menu inspired by British classics. At the bar, choose from award-winning ales, innovative cocktails and a carefully curated wine list celebrating the best vineyards around the world. All this is underpinned by Fiddian-Green’s experience as a pastry chef at a two Michelin-starred restaurant in Denmark, and Winch’s time as a sommelier as well as manager of London’s Portland Restaurant. The pub has 14 rooms: four on the rst oor, with ancient oak beams and contemporary furnishings; ve garden rooms adjacent to the large garden; and ve shepherd’s huts. During the day, there are plenty of wonderful walks –plus the National Trust’s Winkworth Arboretum and the beautiful town of Godalming are nearby.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1428 682883; merryharriers.com

The Rose & Crown Romaldkirk

Romaldkirk, County Durham

Anyone seeking a traditional English inn should look no further than The Rose & Crown in the picturesque village of Romaldkirk. Run by the Robinson family, who also own the popular County Durham hotel Headlam Hall (p75), this 18th-century coaching inn continues to do what it has always done so well: ne hospitality in a beautiful rural location. It is ideal for visiting Barnard Castle, walking in the Dales countryside, mountain biking through Hamsterley Forest and y shing on the River Tees (tuition can be arranged). Great food is at the inn’s heart and dishes are made with local ingredients: think homemade homity pie, treacle marinated pork chops and smoked red lentil and rosemary soup. In the bar, you’ll nd age-old agstone oors, a beamed ceiling and an open replace for hunkering down beside in winter. The 14 bedrooms are split between the main inn (where period features and antiques blend with handmade furniture), the courtyard (these are more contemporary), and 17th-century Monk’s Cottage around the corner, which overlooks a magni cent Saxon church. Well-behaved dogs are welcome.

Doubles from £165

+44 (0)1833 650213; rose-and-crown.co.uk

The Riverside at Aymestrey Leominster, Herefordshire

On the banks of the River Lugg, this attractive blackand-white-timbered, 16th-century inn o ers guests the perfect opportunity to unwind. The six original bedrooms are homely and comfortable, but the three beautifully designed garden rooms – with all creature comforts and full of character – are stand-out. Each has its own veranda overlooking the glorious, unspoiled Herefordshire countryside. At the central point of the scenic Mortimer Trail, The Riverside is ideally located for walkers; it’s also perfectly positioned for shing. But what people really come here for is the food. Chef-patron Andy Link, a star of the local Slow Food movement, grows 50 di erent fruits and vegetables and specialises in cooking with the best Herefordshire, Shropshire, and Welshborder produce. His creative touch with local crops shines through in treats such as hay and meadowsweet ice cream and lavender fudge. The hotel has just taken things to another level with Wild Escapes, a new eco spa (le ) and retreat – unwind in the hot tub surrounded by nature, detox in the wood- red sauna, or treat yourself to a full body massage with herbs from the garden.

Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1568 708440; riversideaymestrey.co.uk

The Swan Inn

Fittleworth, West Sussex

This restored 14th-century coaching inn hit the headlines for all the right reasons when it re-opened last year. Set in the village of Fittleworth, it was once a favourite haunt for Victorian artists such as JMW Turner and John Constable, who would pay for their lodgings with paintings, some of which still hang in the wood-panelled dining room today. Locals pile in for sensational Sunday lunches and locally brewed beers in the bar, and in summer for wood- red pizzas and so serve in the garden. There are ten rooms in the main building, plus two in a converted stable block, each of which have a private garden. All are named a er famous former guests (Rudyard Kipling, Edward Elgar, Emmeline Pankhurst) and furnished with a mix of antique furniture, handmade bedframes and Frette linens. Colour palettes – from so reds, blues and greens to warm neutrals – are calming; beautiful wallpapers and British fabrics feel sumptuous. Breakfast takes place in The Barn overlooking the courtyard, which has a log-burning stove for winter. Petworth is only a een minute drive away, a town best known for its treasure trove-like antiques shops.

Doubles from £195

+44 (0)1798 697030; swaninn ttleworth.com

The Sun Inn

Dedham, Essex

The Sun Inn, on the Essex-Su olk border in the heart of Constable country, is a charming base from which to explore pretty Dedham Vale. Rent a boat on the River Stour (a ve-minute stroll away) or borrow bikes from the pub – sta will even make you a picnic to take with you. The bright yellow façade of this independently owned, handsome old coaching inn beckons you inside, where thick beams, meandering wooden oors, open res and an elm bar (o en lined with locals and their dogs) create a warm atmosphere. There are boules in the garden, magazines and travel books to read, board games to play, and deep sofas to sink into. The seven bedrooms are individually decorated and have centuries-old character and sumptuous beds – the perfect place to unwind. The restaurant’s seasonal, modern British food is big on avour, inspired by fantastic local produce: think homemade pasta; excellent sh from east coast day boats; local meat, fruit and veg; and game in season. Plus, there’s a stellar selection of local ales and an eclectic wine list brimming with rare nds.

Doubles from £185 +44 (0)1206 323351; thesuninndedham.com

The Wellington Arms

Baughurst, Hampshire

There’s something pretty special about The Welly, which celebrated its 21st anniversary last year. Thought to have originated as the Duke of Wellington’s hunting lodge on the edge of his Strat eld Saye estate, it’s now a real foodies’ pub, owned and run with great charm by Jason King (award-winning chef) and Simon Page (front of house). Set in countryside on the Hampshire/ Berkshire border, it has a proli c kitchen garden and a eld where hens, bees, sheep, geese and pigs are kept. The dining room – there are just 12 highly prized tables – is delightfully informal. King uses homegrown ingredients in most of his carefully prepared, countrystyle dishes. There are four bedrooms: the Apartment is a one-bedroom suite above the pub; there are two guest rooms in a converted 17th century oak-framed, brick and timber hay store; and the Cart House is a green oak barn. They have all the extras, from rain showers with Aesop products to Nespresso co ee machines and excellent beds dressed in top quality linen. Breakfast is a feast, with eggs straight from their hens and divine tea cosies knitted by Page’s mum. Who could ask for more?

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1189 820110; thewellingtonarms.com

The Village Pub

Barnsley, Gloucestershire

The rst PIG pub – and a gorgeous one. Just four miles from the market town of Cirencester, this Grade II-listed inn is right in the middle of the countryside and is lled with oak-beamed ceilings and roaring open replaces. The pub started life as three cottages, which were converted in the early 18th century. Today, there are six gorgeous bedrooms tucked into the eaves, plus threebedroom Home Farm House. Perfect for families, it has a farmhouse kitchen, cosy sitting room, garden and games room. The food is proper pub food done very well: tuck into bangers and mash, smoked haddock sh cakes and pork chops with brandy sauce (Thursday steak nights are also particularly popular). All are complemented by local ales straight from the barrel, ice-cold IPAs and Guinness on dra , and a serious wine list to match. For breakfast, a traditional full English sets you up for the day. The PIG – In The Cotswolds is just across the lane, where you can enjoy a treatment at the magical spa or book a table at the restaurant, with its superb ‘25-mile’ menu. Bibury, Burford and Bourton-on-the-Water are all within striking distance for exploring.

Doubles from £165 +44 (0)1285 740421; thevillagepub.co.uk

The White Horse

Chilgrove, West Sussex

Less than 15 minutes’ drive from Chichester, this recently refurbished, dog-friendly pub with rooms sits in the village of Chilgrove in the beautiful South Downs, surrounded by countryside. The look in the 15 bedrooms is rustic elegance meets contemporary design: botanical-pattern headboards, velvet cushions and sleek tiled bathrooms with Bramley products. Downstairs, food runs the gamut from Scotch eggs (washed down with a pint of Butcombe Brewery’s award-winning ale) to Sunday lunches, pub classics and mains that include Cornbury estate venison haunch with salt-baked celeriac, and pork rib-eye with green peppercorn, caper and walnut sauce. For special occasions and larger gatherings, the private dining room in the converted barn seats 14, or you can take over the garden for supper and a spot of croquet in the summer. It’s also a very handy base for sporting events at Goodwood Estate, beach days at sandy West Wittering, and exploring the many local cycling and walking trails. Breakfast – whether a bacon butty, shakshouka or full English –will set you up nicely for the day.

Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1243 519444; whitehorsechilgrove.co.uk

The White Hart Inn

Mersea Island, Essex

This pub with rooms reopened in June 2022 a er a sevenmonth refurbishment following its nine-year closure. It is part of the same family as cheerily yellow-fronted The Sun Inn, Dedham (p158). Located on England’s most easterly inhabited island, it sits opposite the church green, just minutes from the beach. Six cosseting, colourful rooms (one has a sea view, others look over the green) all have superking beds, huge walk-in showers and contemporary local art. The seasonally changing menu features local ingredients: oysters and seafood, fruit and vegetables grown on the island, and meat from East Anglia. Highlights are Mersea skate with samphire, Jerusalem artichoke, and caper butter; wild mushroom ravioli with black cabbage; wild duck with mulberries; and Sunday roasts. Relax in the snug or head out to explore, from beach strolls and a circuit of the island (around four hours) to boat trips, watersports and birdwatching. There are also bikes to borrow and car charging on site. Do check the hotel website before setting o – high tide cuts o the island from the mainland once a day.

Doubles from £185 +44 (0)1206 583212; whitehartinnmersea.co.uk

The Wild Rabbit

Kingham, Oxfordshire

This beautiful 17th-century inn, built from golden Cotswold stone, is an idyllic place to dine, drink and sleep. Slow luxury is at the heart of The Wild Rabbit, with nature and sustainability in every detail (the pub is powered by 100 percent renewable energy). The bar is welcoming with open log res and comfy armchairs, and is generously stocked with wines from independent vineyards, cra beers and local ales. The dining room serves an imaginative selection of contemporary seasonal dishes. There is an emphasis on local produce – plus a zero-food waste policy. The pub rooms feel warm and welcoming, with hand-picked antiques, organic textiles, books on the shelves and playful linocuts by Hugo Guinness. They o er all the considered touches you would expect from a luxurious stay: ne linen sheets, natural botanical products in the bathroom and other thoughtful additions. There are also 34 traditional stone cottages within a two-mile radius of Daylesford. During your stay, explore Daylesford’s organic farm, its agship farmshop, Michelin Green Star café, or retreat to the Bamford Wellness Spa.

Doubles from £179; +44 (0)1608 692866; thewildrabbit.co.uk

Wild & Remote

You can still find corners in which to hide far from the madding crowds

The Cool Girl’s Guide to Birdwatching

Move over, wild swimming –it’s all about twitching now, says Olivia Emily

orth-west of Tetbury, the honey-hued Calcot & Spa comes with all the bells and whistles expected of a modern countryside retreat. Yet across its 220 acres of rewilded land, spa-goers are far from the only residents. Alongside its Cotswold-cosy bedrooms and restaurants, Calcot functions as a vital wildlife corridor, allowing animals to move between hedgerows, wild ower meadows and woodland without hitting the dead end of urban development.

When I rst visited in 2024, it felt like a pleasant bonus – a scenic nature walk stitched into an already tranquil stay. But wandering the wild ower elds at dusk with naturalist Ed Drewitt, the air tittered and cheeped, squawked and chirruped – and these lands revealed themselves to be anything but quiet.

‘There are many, many millions of acres in Britain where you can go and it will all be silent,’ Drewitt tells me. ‘And people think that’s normal. They don’t realise that 40 years ago, those elds would have been full of skylarks and yellowheads.’

Calcot’s grounds host everything from barn owls and chi cha s to willow warblers and redstarts, but it’s the skylarks that delight Drewitt most. When their spiralling song spills across the elds, he points it out to guests on his guided walks, which he also leads in the Forest of Dean. Long used to groups in their 60s, 70s and even 80s, he has recently noticed a shi in the ock.

‘Thirty years ago, birdwatching was something men did by themselves; there is a really big shi away from that now,’ he says. ‘While men o en birdwatch alone,

you tend to get women in groups, and many more women make enquiries about wanting to do birdwatching now. I took a group of women out the other day who were all celebrating their 30th birthdays.’

‘I am constantly surprised by how many people I connect with that are also birdwatching, especially young women,’ Emily (@emilyinnature_), an ecologist on the east coast, tells me. She began birding in 2024 when a job nudged her deeper into the countryside. ‘I was surrounded by birds all the time. I started looking at them in a new way, constantly observing their behaviour and becoming fascinated with their calls.’ Now, she shares photos, videos and wildlife facts with her almost 21,000 Instagram followers.

‘Historically, the eld is male-dominated, with bird experts being thought of as men, but young women want to change that,’ she says. ‘Women are constantly trying to nd their feet in male dominated industries, so it is really nice for us to nd each other online. I have recently joined the Birding Girlies group on social media [an under-30s community of women], which really shows the scale of young women in birding across the country.’

Community is something Dr Mya-Rose Craig is grateful for. Best known online as Birdgirl, a blog she began aged 11, the now 23-year-old admits: ‘When I started secondary school, birdwatching wasn’t cool. It was not something I wanted to talk about with my friends.’ She built an online following documenting her birding adventures, which shi ed into environmental

activism and earned her an honorary doctorate from the University of Bristol at just 17, making her the youngest Briton to receive one. But still, birding was hardly fashionable – until recently.

‘Being yourself and having interests is quite cool at the moment,’ she re ects, pointing to the rise of so-called ‘analogue living’ online. ‘In particular birdwatching, because it’s a very unplugged hobby – it’s very mindful, present and grounding. I’ve de nitely noticed an increase [of it] in my personal life: I recently went over to my friend’s at, who I’ve known for more than ten years, and spotted binoculars on

Birdwatching starter pack

BUY

Binoculars. ‘8x42 or 10x42 are best for birdwatching,’ Emily In Nature recommends

WEAR

‘Neutral, comfortable and warm clothing,’ Emily In Nature advises. ‘You can be outside for a long time, so warmth and comfort are important. You also want to blend in with nature, so avoid bright colours!’

TAKE

‘A physical guidebook,’ Dr Craig suggests. ‘I think it’s quite nice to not look at your phone when you’re out and about’

DOWNLOAD

Merlin, ‘a free app which will record what you’re hearing, and tell you which birds they are’, advises Valencia

LISTEN

Rings & Wings podcast by Amira Nuseibeh, volunteer ringer for the British Trust for Ornithology

KEEP

A journal so you can note down what you have heard and seen; Drewitt has been keeping one since the 90s

REMEMBER

‘Be patient and enjoy the process,’ Valencia says. ‘All the birds are going to sound the same at first, and that’s OK. As you do it more, you will become in tune with all the different species. You’ll feel like you’re a witch’

‘To my own surprise, I became obsessed. I started dreaming about having an owl on my windowsill’

Lira Valencia, urban birdwatcher

the windowsill. When did that happen? Years ago, my friends would ask me, “Why birds?” But now, everything has changed.’

And while Dr Craig has always loved birds, Lira Valencia came to birding later, discovering it while volunteering during lockdown. ‘I had no experience with birds, and I didn’t understand the obsession. I couldn’t understand why they were twitching,’ she says, referring to a birdwatcher’s pursuit of a particular species. ‘In my head, I was like, “it’s just a bird”, because I didn’t know what they were experiencing. But as I spent more time around them, the enthusiasm rubbed o on me.

‘To my own surprise, I became obsessed. I started dreaming about having an owl on my windowsill. I would twitch when I heard things rustling in bushes. I remember thinking, “Oh my gosh, they’ve got me. I’m one of them. Now I understand the obsession.”’

Growing up in south London, Valencia ‘felt very alone’ in her passion for the environment. ‘I really did think I was the only south Londoner interested in nature,’ she re ects, laughing. ‘But it’s always been represented as something you do when you retire.’ Now, she hears daily from newcomers to her 114,000-strong Instagram community. ‘People come out with all sorts of stories,’ she says. ‘Like, “I also like to secretly look for bugs or listen out for birds”. It’s so nice

to know there are so many people who are likeminded, enjoying nature in their own cool ways.’

Calcot’s bird walks are a gentle introduction to the world of birding because, as Drewitt puts it, they ‘suit people who don’t necessarily want to be out the whole day, but want a taste of bird and wildlife watching’. For Valencia, accessibility is the key to the hobby’s appeal. In Britain, she says, we are o en told that extraordinary wildlife lies somewhere far away.

‘That’s a big mistake,’ she says. ‘Some of the coolest stu I’ve ever seen has been in cities. I’ve seen woodpeckers, kestrels, peregrines, all on concrete streets. You really don’t have to go far, or spend lots of money, or have cool equipment or hiking gear. I could go outside in my pyjamas and probably see something really cool.’

And on this point, despite the utter wonder of Calcot, Drewitt agrees: ‘Birdwatching is just about being aware of what’s around you. For example, going out the kitchen door and just listening. A lot of it is about bird-hearing rather than bird-seeing. And when I take people out, rst of all, they’re hearing the cars and planes, but by the end of a session, they’re hearing those di erent birds. They’re hearing the layers.’

What’s the best way to get started, then? ‘Stop for a moment, even if it’s just half a minute with your cup of tea in the morning, outside your back door, your front door – and just listen.’ ■

Breac.House

Dunfanaghy, County Donegal

Located on Donegal’s dramatic Horn Head overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Breac.House, opened in 2017 by Dubliners Cathrine Burke and Niall Campbell, ts triumphantly into the wild landscape. Designed by local architects and built by local tradesmen, sustainability is at the heart of this modern retreat, from the building and its energy usage to the local sourcing of everything, including food and drink. The four rooms – all of which have spectacular panoramic sea and mountain views – are deliciously cosy, with custom-cra ed, super-king oak beds topped with pure Irish wool duvets, and bold terrazzo bathrooms. Things get even better when a scrumptious breakfast arrives through a hatch. During the day, explore the deserted beaches and ancient forests, hike in a national park, take a surf lesson, play a round of golf, visit art galleries and heritage buildings, or just gaze at the ocean. Back at the house, relax on the terrace, curl up in the library or sit beside a roaring re. There is also a seaweed bath and wood- red sauna. While there is no restaurant, the pre-dinner drinks are fabulous, as are the many excellent eateries nearby.

Doubles from €445 +353 (0)74 913 6940; breac.house

Bainland Lodge Retreats Woodhall Spa, Lincolnshire

A 45-acre country retreat near Woodhall Spa that has everything you could possibly want for an easy family getaway. Each luxury lodge, for groups of two to 24, comes with a hot tub and an enclosed outdoor space for little ones to run around. On-site activities range from badminton to bicycle hire, swimming, instructor-led archery sessions for children to Crazi Bugz o -road driving experiences. There’s an outdoor adventure play area (handily it’s right next to The Nest all-day restaurant so grown-ups can watch from the terrace), as well as a games lounge. And you can forget the usual constant cooking and washing-up: other hassle-free dining options include hiring a private chef and bartender for the evening or simply ordering stone-based pizzas, which will be delivered straight to the door. New this year is a spa with treatment rooms meaning indulgent facials and soothing massages alongside a thermal circuit, to complete the full relaxation package. Plus, Lincolnshire’s crowd-free sandy beaches are less than a 45-minute drive away. Perfect for couples, families and friends throughout the year, whatever the season or occasion.

One bedroom lodges from £449 for four nights +44 (0)1526 352903; bainland.co.uk

The Fish

Broadway, Worcestershire

Tucked away on the handsome Farncombe Estate in the Cotswolds alongside Dormy House (p73) and Foxhill Manor (p119), The Fish is not your stereotypical countryside hotel and proudly so. It is informal and quirky, with a great emphasis on fun. Bedrooms are e ortlessly stylish, with a Nordic sense of calm throughout: choices include the Stables, Outhouse and Coach House, or one of the three showstopping luxury treehouses accessed via a rope bridge – perfect for a family escape. Fi een converted shepherd’s huts are also nestled within the grounds, with cosy double beds and freestanding baths (some have their own private hot tubs). For group stays there’s also The Hoot, which sleeps up to 15. A stroll down the hill leads to Hook, a seasonal seafood-focused restaurant helmed by Farncombe’s culinary director Martin Burge. Eat on the large, paved terrace or in the dining room, where you can watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. The Fish is a fabulous spot for families that’s rooted in nature –there’s even an agility course speci cally for canines and an outdoor ‘dog tub’.

Doubles from £275; +44 (0)1386 858000; the shhotel.co.uk

The Lakes by YOO

Lechlade, Gloucestershire

Discover a slice of bucolic bliss in the heart of Gloucestershire. Nestled among 850 acres of rolling meadows and greenery, centred around a series of pristine lakes, this is a tranquil escape. It began as a vision shared between property developer John Hitchcox and celebrated designer Philippe Starck, who dreamt of creating a modern countryside retreat. The result is a secluded rural estate, ideal for everyone from couples in search of romance to multi-gen groups with the whole family (and dogs) in tow. Choose between luxury hotel rooms, cabins, apartments and houses, all with serene lakeside locations and unbeatable views – some even come with their own rowing boats, paddleboards and canoes. For dining, there’s The Lakes Bar & Kitchen, bespoke private dining options, or the team will ll up your fridge for a home-cooked feast. The Lakes by YOO o ers a variety of experiences, from wild swimming, water sports and ziplining to an on-site farm and nature-based kids club. Just want to chill out? Head to The Spa by YOO, with its state-of-the-art gym, 17-metre heated pool, cryotherapy chamber and indulgent treatments – plus a spa garden for relaxation. Superior doubles from £225; +44 (0)1367 254260; thelakesbyyoo.com

South Lodge

Lower Beeding, West Sussex

If you’re looking to switch o and surround yourself with nature, South Lodge is the place to do it. Part of Exclusive Collection, the rst UK hotel group to become B Corp certi ed, this long-established country hotel is home to The Reeds: eight double-height, wood-clad lodges designed with sustainability at their core. With decks cantilevered over a wild swimming lake, six lakeside lodges sleep four, while the two spa lodges are ideal for couples, each complete with an infrared halotherapy sauna. The award-winning spa includes an indoor in nity pool, hydrotherapy pool, wild swimming pool and a full thermal suite, alongside nurturing treatments. While at the spa, pop into Botanica, the hotel’s zerowaste, dairy-free restaurant serving Mediterraneaninspired dishes. There’s also three-AA rosette Camellia, which showcases just-picked produce from the estate, and Michelin-starred The Pass. Headed by chef Ben Wilkinson, the restaurant o ers seasonal tasting menus overlooking the kitchen. Rooms and suites are individually designed, with many including hot tubs, private gardens and sweeping South Downs views.

Doubles from £308

+44 (0)1403 891711, exclusive.co.uk

Lord Crewe Arms

Blanchland, Northumberland

This wonderfully characterful and historic inn is owned by The Calcot Collection, one of the nest small hotel groups in the UK. Nestled in the honey-stone medieval village of Blanchland, amid the gorgeous North Pennine Moors, this posh pub dates back to the 12th century. The 26 bedrooms range from cosy doubles to grand suites, while the dining spaces feature baronial and monastic touches be tting a building that was once part of Blanchland Abbey. The look throughout mingles English country charm and modern sophistication. In the kitchen, head chef Paul Johnson delivers hearty, honest food – and you can take your pick from a treasure trove of dining spots: The Bishop’s Dining Room, by the reside in The Hilyard, or there’s Duck-or-Grouse into The Derwent for a superb a ernoon tea. Thirsty? Hotfoot it to The Crypt, the medieval vaulted pub, for real ale and ‘Bar Bait’. There’s also the restored 15th-century Gatehouse, which serves as a sleek venue for events. During the day, go paddleboarding, walk the moors or explore the stunning countryside by bicycle. Best of all, there is little phone signal, so it’s perfect for a digital detox.

Doubles from £235 +44 (0)1434 677100; lordcrewearmsblanchland.co.uk

Treehouse Retreats

Midhurst, West Sussex

Tucked away among a 16-acre woodland on the Cowdray Estate, four exceptional treehouses combine contemporary, ecoconscious design with modern comforts for an elevated back-to-nature escape. Each has a superking bed, open-plan living room, under oor heating and an outdoor tub on the deck. There’s Le Creuset cookware, super-fast wi and smart TVs, yoga mats, games and binoculars, plus optional electric buggy hire to get around. Buzzard and Muntjac are best for families (the latter is the shortest distance from the entrance and has an indoor bath); Chukka has views of the Cowdray ruins and polo elds; and Gri n is equipped with a bigger kitchen with a central island making it ideal for keen cooks. For those who would rather leave the meal prep to someone else, the Treets Bar is stocked with snacks, oven-ready meals can be bought on arrival, and the Cowdray Farm Shop and café is a 15-minute stroll away. As well as miles of paths and tracks to explore, the estate (which is only an hour from London) has a championship golf course and activities such as clay pigeon shooting, polo lessons and y shing on the River Rother on o er.

Doubles from £250; +44 (0)1730 239578; treehouseretreats.com

Wilderness Reserve

Suffolk

A rewilded countryside escape set within 6,000 acres of parkland, woodland and lakes in Su olk’s Yox Valley, Wilderness Reserve spans three adjoining estates: Sibton Park, Chapel Barn and, the latest addition, Blyth Barn. Speckled across these are 27 houses and cottages – from a one-bedroom hideaway with its own rowing boat to a spa haven for larger groups, with a hot tub, sauna and steam room. Each estate has a showstopping property at its heart, whether that’s a Grade-II listed Georgian 14-room manor house with a ballroom and walled garden; a restored 15th-century barn with 18 rooms, an indoor pool and cinema; or a lakeside retreat with event spaces. Every stay is tailored, perhaps with private chefs coming in to cook supper or cosy reside feasts. There is masses to do, from wild swimming to falconry, as well as wellness treatments and wine tastings, and family-oriented activities such as children’s picnics. Underpinning it all is a long-term commitment to conservation and restoration which has already seen over one million trees planted, 2,000 bird-nest boxes installed, and wild owers sown. A rural idyll just two hours from London.

From £710 for a one-bedroom cottage; +44 (0)1986 802113; wildernessreserve.com

Wildhive Callow Hall

Ashbourne, Derbyshire

Surrounded by 35 acres of gardens at the edge of the Dove Valley, Victorian Callow Hall opened in 2021 as the rst property from Wildhive, a new hotel brand focusing on rural getaways. Stay in the main house where rooms with an eclectic, playful feel are the vision of interior designer Isabella Worsley, or in one of the 11 cosy, tucked-away woodland Hives. There are also two spectacular self-contained treehouses, each with an outdoor tub. The wellbeing centre in The Coach House has just launched a host of new hot and cold therapy rooms – including a herbal sauna and red-light therapy Vitality box – in addition to its treatment rooms, Technogym, and studio classes. Or borrow a bicycle to pedal along the scenic Tissington Trail. Picnic by the burbling Bentley Brook and take a ernoon tea on the lawn but do leave room for dinner in the Garden Room restaurant, where seasonal dishes might include chargrilled English asparagus with Brock and Morten balsamic, and tandoori Derbyshire lamb skewers with gloriously moreish garlic and chilli roti. A gorgeous retreat, perfectly positioned at the gateway to the Peak District.

Doubles from £205; +44 (0)1335 300900; wildhive.uk

Wildhive Eshott Hall

Eshott, Northumberland

Surrounded by rolling countryside, Wildhive Eshott Hall is an elegant Georgian country house hotel steeped in history. Opening in summer 2026, it is the latest o ering from Wildhive’s Ed Burrows and Charles Randall and is the sister property of Callow Hall. Set deep in the wild within 32 acres of gardens and ancient woodland, enjoy beautifully appointed bedrooms, including dog-friendly rooms in the stables and charming woodland cabins. The Garden Room restaurant celebrates the very best of Northumberland’s larder with an inspired seasonal menu: think just-caught seafood straight from the coast and beautifully reared moorland-grazed meats, complemented by fruit and vegetables grown in the kitchen garden. During the day, wander through nearby market towns, stroll the sandy beaches, explore Alnwick Castle or treat yourself to a visit to Holy Island. Closer to home, the hotel gardens and woodlands are perfect for gentle walks and spotting local wildlife. Top o your stay by heading to the woodland cabins, where saunas and steam rooms are tucked among the trees. Pretty much perfect.

Rooms from £205; +44 (0)1670 787454; wildhive.uk

Private Houses

Enjoy perfect privacy without forgoing exceptional service

Privacy Loves Company

A hyper-bespoke breed of private holiday homes is fuelling our appetite for the unique, finds Evie Calver

tep into the vaulted entrance hall of Cowdray House and you’ll immediately be greeted by numerous members of the noble Pearson family. While strictly speaking you won’t be able to talk to them, these oil paintings – of which more than 20 adorn the walls of this 24-bedroom, Victorian turreted manor in Sussex’s South Downs – say a lot about why people travel from all over the world to stay here.

‘Most of our guests are looking to really get under the covers and understand the historic side of Cowdray,’ says Neil Georges, managing director of events and hospitality. Built in the 1870s on the site of an old hunting lodge, the house and its 16,000-acre estate later became the family home of Weetman Pearson, 1st Viscount Cowdray, passing through four generations before opening for exclusive use in 2015. ‘What we’re trying to do when people stay here is make them feel that they’re part of a journey of that history.’

The key to this is Cowdray’s concierge service, which allows guests to enjoy personalised, hotel-style hospitality coupled with the freedom and seclusion of a private house. In addition to a host, chefs, bartenders and housekeeping sta , a fourstrong operations team works with guests to understand what they want from their stay and organises activities accordingly: estate tours with head gardener Tony, talks on the history of the house and its family, polo tournaments

featuring professional players from the estate’s internationally renowned club. ‘It’s all about making lasting memories,’ says Georges. He cites a family from the US who dreamt of experiencing an English pub – while they were out on a crawl in the town, Cowdray’s main hall was transformed into their own private pub, complete with a quintessentially British menu using local ingredients.

Cowdray House (cowdray.co.uk) is one among a growing number of properties to o er a bespoke concierge service, representing an evolution in the world of luxury travel. Simon Je ries, product director at tailor-made travel company Elegant Resorts, agrees: ‘It used to be all about white-glove hotel service and rst class on the cruise, but time has moved on. Luxury today means exclusivity, space, hyperpersonalisation.’ And while hotels are curated for guests, he adds that ‘there is something quite special and exciting about stepping into someone’s home and family history’.

Penicuik House, an 18th-century, Palladianstyle mansion ten miles south of Edinburgh, opened for exclusive use in August 2025 following a two-year restoration. The principle behind the project was to ‘restore a historic estate through hospitality’, explains Ed Clerk, the 12th generation of his family to own Penicuik Estate (penicuikestate.com) since 1654. ‘What we’re doing is going back to a time before hotels existed and giving people an experience of what it was like to stay in a very highly sta ed country house.’ The 16-bedroom property and the ve cottages dotted around the estate all have the ‘operational grunt’ of a hotel, he explains, with kitchen, housekeeping and hosting teams on hand to make guests’ personalised experience feel ‘e ortless’.

‘We like our guests to have control and choice over how they spend their time,’ Clerk adds. ‘If someone wants to go stargazing with a guide one night, we make it happen. We try to give the idea that nothing is too much trouble.’ But he assures that Penicuik’s polished service stays behind the scenes. ‘We’ve got all the operational equipment you’d expect from a hotel, but you cannot feel that. It has the soul of a family home.’

The traditional hotel is far from dead – 2025 saw the largest in ux of ve-star rooms in London in over a decade. But 30 years a er enjoying an initial big boom with the launch of Vrbo, an Airbnb predecessor, private holiday homes are relishing another moment in the sun. Between July 2024 and June 2025, guests from all over the world spent almost 94 million nights in UK shortterm rentals, an increase of ten percent on the year before (ONS). This shows no signs of slowing down – and according to analysis by Savills, there is a particular appetite for unique places where guests can connect with local culture and history. Simon Foster, director of the Savills tourism, leisure and events consultancy, adds that this is particularly true among Gen Z: ‘[Their] daily lives are heavily digitised, [so] the desire for immersive and organic experiences is stronger than ever.’

Melinda Stevens nds this unsurprising. As former editor of Condé Nast Traveller and founder of creative agency Salt Lick, she knows what makes tourists tick –and points out that current generations have become all too aware of the inauthentic. ‘It’s made us crave a sense of discovery, which comes with unique places. There’s an honesty about these private houses. They have the capacity for it to feel like you’re just a small part of their history, but that history is something you can really bite into, and taste has real meaning.’

Located in the ower- lled village of St Florence in Pembrokeshire, Elm Grove (elmgrovecountryhouse.co.uk) is a magnet for those eager to get their teeth into Welsh culture and history. ‘More and more guests really want to get hands-on and do things that are very Pembrokeshire, very Wales,’ says Jane Rees-Baynes, the third generation of the Rees family to run the 11-bedroom, 15-acre estate. A er nding out what has drawn each group to the county and what would make their stay special, she and her husband Alan o er personalised recommendations such as cookery classes with local produce, coastal foraging, ghost trails and history walks. The couple also take care of cooking and bartending so guests deal with as few sta as possible.

‘The personal touch is what people say they love about staying with us, and o en say it’s like staying with family,’ Rees-Baynes adds. ‘No two guests are the same, and neither are the experiences in our lovely county. Pembrokeshire has so much to o er; we do everything we can to help guests enjoy that in an authentic way.’

Meanwhile, those who stay at 300-year-old, exclusive-use Aldourie Castle (wildland.scot; book via perfecthideaways.co.za) are drawn in by its fairytale turrets and location on the shores of Loch Ness. ‘Particularly for a special occasion, guests love experiencing Scottish traditions, whether that’s a

‘It used to be all about white-glove hotel service and first class on the cruise, but time has moved on. Luxury today means exclusivity, space, hyper-personalisation’

bagpiper pre-dinner or learning how to Ceilidh in the castle steadings,’ says Chris Kennedy, director of marketing at WildLand, which owns the property. The in-house sta play a huge part in organising these experiences and taking care of guests, as well as inspiring interest in local culture and the history of the castle. ‘Our team is fascinated by Aldourie’s past and is empowered to tell those stories,’ he adds.

Most Aldourie Castle guests regularly stay in hotels, Kennedy says; the tailored service that comes with such properties isn’t necessarily something they will choose every time. ‘When they come to us, they might just be looking for something di erent. We see people combining a stay with us with a hotel stay, for example exploring Edinburgh and then ending their journey at Aldourie to celebrate a special moment all together before heading back to the stresses of everyday life.’

A er all, the ourishing popularity of private holiday homes – with or without hyperpersonalised bolt-ons – simply gives us all more freedom when it comes to how, and where, we travel. ‘We are all really lucky to live in a time where there is so much choice,’ Kennedy says. ■

Simon Jeffries, Elegant Resorts

36 St Giles

Oxford

Housed in a beautiful Oxford townhouse on the doorstep of the bohemian neighbourhood Jericho, The Oxford Collection’s latest addition o ers the best of both worlds: two newly renovated, self-contained private residences overlooking the historic St Giles’ boulevard, complemented by the e ortless convenience and dedicated service synonymous with The Oxford Collection (see p105 & p106). Here, Georgian heritage meets contemporary design. The rooms are bright and airy with high ceilings and shuttered sash windows. There are handcra ed beds with Egyptian linen, Bulthaup kitchenettes, designated workspaces and elegant, Carrara marble bathrooms. The rooms are sleek, but there is plenty of personality: colourful, abstract art decorates the walls and bookshelves are lled with novels that nod subtly to Oxford. Best of all, 36 St Giles is right in the heart of the city: Just across the road is the Lamb & Flag pub, a notable watering hole of CS Lewis and JRR Tolkien. Daily breakfast can be taken at the Parsonage Grill, mere steps from the front door. Do note that rooms are available to book from one night to months at a time.

Doubles from £650; +44 (0)1865 799500; 36stgiles.co.uk

Broughton Sanctuary

Skipton, Yorkshire

Nestled at the foothills of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, the Broughton Hall Estate has been home to the Tempest family for over 900 years. Today, Roger Tempest – the 32nd generation – is the custodian of the estate, now called Broughton Sanctuary. And not only has he preserved his family’s stunning historic home, but he has also added one of the UK’s best (and awardwinning) wellbeing centres. Take over Broughton Hall as your own home, with 17 individually designed bedrooms and excellent in-house chefs, plus a dedicated hospitality team. Looking for something more low-key? Stay in one of the 23 beautiful holiday homes. At the heart of the Sanctuary, though, is the state-of-the-art wellbeing centre, Avalon. Expect timetabled classes, private wellbeing events and transformational retreats from top practitioners. The Sanctuary’s 2,500-acre groundbreaking nature recovery project, with all its healing activities, adds to the serenity, allowing you to connect to yourself, to nature and to each other. This is an inspiring destination that is hard to forget.

Cottages from £450; from £15k per night for exclusive use of Broughton Hall. +44(0)1756 799608; broughtonsanctuary.co.uk

Kingshill Farmhouse at Elmley Nature Reserve

Isle of Sheppey, Kent

Waking up at family-run Elmley – set within the only National Nature Reserve in the country where it’s possible to stay overnight –is very special indeed. The reserve spans 3,300 acres of wilderness that is not only one of the most important UK sites for breeding wading birds, but is also renowned for owls, hares, rare bees and butter ies. Alongside shepherd’s huts, cabins and Elmley Cottage is Kingshill Farmhouse, a Grade II-listed, 17th-century property that can accommodate up to 12 guests. Recently renovated (with period features restored and interiors by Francesca Rowan-Plowden), it has an open-plan kitchen, several reception rooms, and a large garden with expansive views across the landscape. There are six bedrooms: four are en-suite, and the two top- oor rooms are ideal for families. Guests can self-cater, arrange private dining, order supper hampers to be delivered to the door or, in summer, head to the festoon-lit courtyard for wood- red pizza. Spend days discovering trails and wild swimming at Elmley’s private beach (or in the dipping pond year-round) – and don’t miss rising early for the best wildlife spotting at dawn.

From £160 for a shepherd’s hut and from £970 per night (min. two nights) for the farmhouse; elmleynaturereserve.co.uk

Park Lodge

Abbots Bromley, Staffordshire

An elegant Grade II-listed hunting lodge, Park Lodge originally formed part of the grand estate of neighbouring Blith eld Hall and carries a rich sporting heritage dating back to the early 19th century. Now part of the Bagots Park Estate, it o ers an idyllic setting for a re ned countryside escape or traditional sporting break. Hidden at the end of a secluded two-mile private drive, the eight-bedroom house (sleeping up to 15 guests) is built in Tudor-Gothic style and retains a wealth of original period features, including a wood-panelled reception hall, original shutters, and open replaces. Set within the romantic, rolling landscapes of the Sta ordshire countryside, it feels wonderfully removed from modern life. Designed with entertaining in mind, the house is ideal for gatherings of family and friends, with exible options ranging from self-catering stays to a fully catered private chef experience. A stay at Park Lodge is one that lingers long a er departure and o ers exceptional privacy throughout the year for guests.

From £2,000 per week; +44 (0)7795 275098; bagotspark.co.uk

Sand & Stone Escapes

Nationwide

If you’re a er a staycation with the wow factor, Sand & Stone Escapes has you covered. Born from a passion for design, quality and exceptional stays, the brand’s impressive portfolio of coastal, city and country hideaways and houses spans the UK, including the Cotswolds, Cornwall, Devon, Norfolk and the Isle of Skye. The team meets each property owner to determine whether their home is a suitable addition and to ensure each one earns its place – and as a result, has curated an unbeatable collection of luxurious, self-catering properties. There’s the agship Black Moon, a two-person bolthole on the shores of St Ives that’s perfect for romantic breaks. On the cli s of the Isle of Skye, Milovaig House is a renovated 19th-century cro er’s house with breathtaking sea views, serene interiors and a Swedish-style wood-burning hot tub. In the Cotswolds, highlights include Wood Farm House, with interiors by Millie Turner and a secret cinema; Bear Court in Burford, home to a charming eaves-set bedroom; and The Lodge, a beautifully restored jewel-box property near Broadway dating back to the 1800s.

Properties from £125; +44 (0)20 8740 3097; sandandstoneescapes.com

Trevear Farm

Wadebridge, Cornwall

Set in the north Cornwall countryside near Wadebridge, Trevear Farm is a rural retreat within easy reach of the coast at Padstow and Rock that combines the privacy of self-catering with the polish of a luxury hotel. The farm is home to eight houses, suitable for couples, families or exclusive group hire. The most recent addition is New Cottage, a cosy, two-bedroom bolthole with a patio and wood-burning stove. Guests have access to a heated indoor pool, steam room, sauna, gym and an honesty bar, as well as bespoke experiences. Farm tours to meet the sheep, alpacas and pigs are available upon request, and the team can help organise everything from yoga classes and riding to water sports, babysitters and restaurant bookings. O site, there are another two properties to choose from. Lowen, a three-bedroom cottage with sweeping views across the Camel Estuary, has its own heated pool – perfect for long summer days – while Rock View, a striking four-bedroom house with a generous sun deck, lends itself perfectly to milestone birthdays or big gatherings. Rented together as Keskorra, they create a stylish and spacious setting for larger celebrations.

From £1,064 for a weekend stay trevearfarm.co.uk

Temple House County Sligo

Set on a 1,000-acre private estate, this manor in County Sligo o ers a splendid combination of old-world elegance and warm Irish hospitality. And it can be all yours. Sleeping up to 20 guests, it’s a wonderful option for family gatherings, private parties, intimate weddings or really any celebration you can imagine. Overlooking a 13th-century Knights Templar castle and tranquil lake, Temple House has been home to the Perceval family since 1665. Happily, it remains in the family as Roderick and Helena Perceval lovingly steward the house into the next generation. Step inside to discover grand reception rooms, roaring log res, and a sweeping staircase leading up to ten bedrooms. Each has unique character and views, and lovely touches such as VOYA products in the bathroom. The food is superb. From hearty breakfasts to candlelit dinners, the kitchen uses the best local ingredients within its seasonal menu. There are stunning walks, activities (think archery, rowing, championship golf courses and horse-riding) and VOYA seaweed spa treatments, all nearby the Wild Atlantic Way. Thirty minutes from Knock Airport, it’s the perfect Irish retreat.

Exclusive use from €2,500 per night; +353 (0)87 997 6045; templehouse.ie

Cornwell Manor

Chipping Norton, Oxfordshire

Set on a 2,000-acre estate near Chipping Norton on the Oxfordshire-Gloucestershire border, this handsome Georgian manor can be taken over for rentals in its entirety or hired for weddings (the latter between May and October). Whatever the occasion, this is rural England at its loveliest: terraced lawns, woodland, lakes and sensational views of the rolling parkland beyond. There’s even a small church, dating back to Norman times, tucked away in the grounds for ceremonies; other options include the ballroom or Italianate water garden, perhaps followed by a marquee wedding breakfast. The house, which has 12 bedrooms (and nine bathrooms, including six ensuite), is decorated in a quintessential country style. Travel cots can be added on request and two rooms turned into twins – so ideal for families with older children. Plus, there’s a live-in housekeeper and a cook to prepare breakfast. At the heart of the estate is the tiny hamlet of Cornwell, and there are plenty of picture-perfect Cotswolds villages to discover nearby. Daylesford is down the road for lunch or simply kick back with a fabulous poolside brunch party to round o the weekend.

From £42,000 for three nights over a weekend; +44 (0)1608 698673; cornwellmanor.com

Kilshane House

Tipperary

First impressions count and Kilshane House, at the end of a half-mile long drive with lime trees on either side, is a stunning Regency building with a limestone portico and spectacular conservatory – ideal for a champagne reception for 200 guests. All this in the centre of 320 acres of parkland. Ceremonies can take place in the conservatory or outdoors – perhaps in the pagoda which appears to oat above the lake or in the secret garden, with the scent of roses and lavender wa ing through the air. The Orangerie, with a full bar at one end and a dance oor at the other, can seat over 260 guests. With the French doors open to the terrace under glass, it’s the perfect place for a gala dinner prepared by the resident chef or for watching end-of-the-evening reworks. There are 56 ensuite rooms in the main house, wing and mews houses. The night before the big day, an informal party in the billiards room and the QT Bar can set the pace for the weekend, while a post-wedding barbecue is an excellent way to round o the celebrations.

From €155 per person on a wedding day; +353 (0)62 82444; kilshanehouse.ie

Find Your Perfect Stay

DEVON & CORNWALL

Boringdon Hall 69

Bovey Castle 70

The Bull Inn 151

The Collective at Woolsery 152

Carbis Bay 137

Hell Bay Hotel 137

The Idle Rocks 138

Lympstone Manor 125

The Old Coastguard 138

The Pig – at Combe 82

The Pig – at Harlyn Bay 139

Sancreed House Retreat 130

The Seafood Restaurant 141

Trevear Farm 187

Trewornan Manor 142

THE WEST COUNTRY

Dorset | Somerset | Wiltshire Gloucestershire

The Bradley Hare Inn 150

Bishopstrow Hotel & Spa 68

Homewood 75

Louma Country Hotel 124

Lucknam Park, Emblems Collection 77

Mad Swans 125

Number One Bruton 126

The Pig – near Bath 83

The Pig – on the beach 140

Priory Wareham 129

The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa 109

Tudor Farmhouse 130

HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

Careys Manor & SenSpa 70

Lainston House 76

Lime Wood 76

The Jack Russell 123

The Montagu Arms 79

The Pig 81

The Pig – in the wall 108

The Wellington Arms 159

THE HOME COUNTIES

Berkshire | Buckinghamshire

Hertfordshire | Kent | Sussex | Surrey

Baili scourt Hotel & Spa 66

Beaverbrook 68

The Cat Inn 150

Gravetye Manor 120

The Grove 74

The Horse & Groom 154

Kingshill Farmhouse at Elmley Nature Reserve 184

The Merry Harriers 156

Ockendon Manor

Hotel & Spa 126

Pennyhill Park 80

The Pig – at Bridge Place 80

The Pig – in the South Downs 83

South Lodge 171

The Swan Inn 158

Treehouse Retreats 172

The White Horse 160

LONDON

1 Hotel Mayfair 92

The Bailey’s Hotel

London Kensington 93

Batty Langley’s 94

Beaverbrook Town House 94

The Chancery Rosewood 95

Charlotte Street Hotel 96

The Chelsea Harbour

Hotel & Spa 97

The Egerton House Hotel 98

The Goring 99

The Hari 100

Hazlitt’s 102

Lime Tree Hotel 103

The Milestone

Hotel & Residencies 105

One Aldwych 106

Pan Paci c London 107

Park Hyatt

London River Thames 107

The Rookery 108

Rosewood London 109

The Westin London City Hotel & Residencies 111

THE COTSWOLDS

Gloucestershire | Oxfordshire Warwickshire | Wiltshire

Calcot & Spa 71

Cornwell Manor 190

The Double Red Duke 119

Dormy House 73

Ellenborough Park 74

The Fish 169

Fox Hill Manor 119

The Harcourt Arms 155

The Lakes by Yoo 170

The Manor House 78

The Methuen Arms 156 No. 131 104

The Painswick 127

The Pig – in the Cotswolds 82

Thyme 85

The Village Pub 159

Whatley Manor Hotel & Spa 131

Wild Duck 131

The Wild Rabbit 161

MID COUNTRY

Derbyshire | Lincolnshire Nottinghamshire | Rutland Warwickshire | West Midlands Oxfordshire

36 St Giles 182

Bainland Lodge Retreats 168

The Barnsdale 67

The Cavendish Hotel 118

The Grand Hotel Birmingham 100 Hambleton Hall 122

Hampton Manor 122

Hart’s Hotel 101

Mallory Court 78

Old Bank Hotel 105

Old Parsonage Hotel 106

Park Lodge 185

The Riverside at Aymestrey 157

The Tawny 84

Wildhive Callow Hall 174

EAST ANGLIA

Cambridgeshire | Essex Norfolk | Su olk

Congham Hall Hotel & Spa 72

The Dabbling Duck Pub 118

The Gunton Arms 154

The Sun Inn 158

The White Hart Inn 160

University Arms Cambridge 110 Wilderness Reserve 173

THE NORTH

County Durham | Cheshire Cumbria | Lancashire

Northumberland | Yorkshire

Broughton Sanctuary 183 The Devonshire Arms 73 Hard Days Night Hotel 98 Headlam Hall Hotel & Rural Retreat 75 The Inn at Whitewell 123 Linthwaite House 77 Lord Crewe Arms 171 Matfen Hall 79 The Pheasant Hotel, Harome 128

WALES & THE MARCHES

SCOTLAND

IRELAND & NORTHERN IRELAND