Warren County Connection A Publication of Cornell Cooperative Extension of Warren County
April 2019
This Month in the Garden... By Peggy Koppmann, Cornell Cooper- when to prune it, ative Extension Erie County weather conditions, bloom ‘Easy does it’ should be April’s motto. times, fertilizer We’re more than anxious to get out applications, and, of course, when in the garden and start working, but did the aphids hit your roses and weather and soil conditions may get when did the Japanese beetles show in the way. Be patient, take your up. For those of you who eschew time, and take time for your garden paper and pencil, take a look at to get ready for you. Remember, the keeping a journal on your computer. early bird may get nothing more than Google Dave’s Garden Journal, Folia, muddy boots. or Green Thumb Journal for some ideas. These look very interesting Close to Home – Start working in the and, if kept open on your desktop, beds closest to the house, preferably may motivate you to keep a good off paths or walkways. Stay off record of ‘how does your garden mucky soil and do a little at a time. grow’. Start with gently removing battered leaves from Hellebore, Epimedium, Be Gentle with Me – The temptation and gingers. Uncover spring bulbs is to get out the rake and clean out and ephemerals. Gradually pull back those garden beds, but go gently. mulch and leaves from your perenni- Newly emerging plants are tender als as the sun warms up the soil and and can be damaged by vigorous growth starts to appear. Cut back raking. You don’t want to bring weed your roses and thin out all but 3 – 5 seeds to the surface and you may of the youngest branches. You can also disturb “the freebies”. Those are also thin dead foliage left from last the self-seeders like larkspur, Nicotiyear – the ‘skeletons’ of plants and ana, Verbena bonariensis and others vegetables. Be sure they don’t harthat are just waiting to germinate bor disease before you compost and save you money (which, of them. course, will be spent on more plants). Resolution Reminder – Remember that resolution you made to keep a Bearing Fruit – Pruning your fruit garden journal this year? Well, it’s trees correctly can affect your hartime to start. Among other things to vest and the overall health of your note, keep track of when your clema- tree or orchard. The goal is to open tis blooms so you know (Continued on page 3)
In this issue: Rain Gardens for the North 3 The Unwelcome House Guest: Brown Marmorated Stink Bug
5
Spring Things: Wildlife Babies, Heatstroke in Dogs
7
New Strain of Canine Distemper Virus Arrives in North America
8
Keep Tech Support Strangers Out of Your Computer
9
Get a Jump Start on Your Spring Cleaning
10
The Ketogenic Diet: Is It For You?
10
Chicken Alfredo Pasta Recipe
11
Special points of interest: •
Calendar of Events
•
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Warren County Connection
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Cornell University Cooperative Extension of Warren County 377 Schroon River Road Warrensburg, NY 12885
Phone: (518) 623-3291 or (518) 668-4881 Fax: (518) 668-4912
Visit Our Web Site: www.cce.cornell.edu/warren
Who We Are Nation-wide, thousands of people in each state tap into their state’s land-grant university research and know-how to make sound confident decisions concerning family, home, business, finances, and the future. In New York State, the land-grant university is Cornell University.
The Cornell Cooperative Extension network brings you the expertise of Cornell University, other land-grant universities across the country and locally-based Extension Educators, volunteers, and other experts through such programs as: horticulture, youth and families, leadership, environment, food, nutrition & health, home environment, and financial management.
Staff Dr. James Seeley, Executive Director John Bowe, 4-H Team Coordinator Dan Carusone, 4-H Community Educator Marybeth Mitcham, Nutrition, Food Safety, and Healthy Living Educator Roxanne Westcott, Parent Educator/Energy Educator Anne Mills, Farm to School Coordinator Jessica Holmes, Master Gardener Coordinator Sharon Bellamy, Finance Manager Amy Sabattis, Public Relations/Publications Manager Michele Baker, Administrative Assistant Chris Dittus, Administrative Assistant Rand Fosdick, Maintenance
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William Mason - President Laura Conway- Vice President Julie Pearl - Secretary William Hamelin - Treasurer Aimee Azaert Daniel Bruno Peter Benoit Ed Griesmer Jim Kneeshaw David Strainer Michael White
Extension Service Committee Chair - Andrea Hogan Douglas Beaty Jack Diamond If you have special needs as addressed by the Ben Driscoll Americans With Disabilities Act and need Cynthia Hyde assistance with attending these workshops, Brad Magowan please make your needs known by the regisEugene Merlino tration deadline. Reasonable efforts will be Michael Wild made for accommodations. William Loeb
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CALENDAR Please visit our website for more events www.cce.cornell.edu/warren 4/4/2019 Adirondack Explorers Program - During this afterschool program, participants will learn and play their way to learning more about wildlife, outdoor activities, healthy living, and more! For more information about this program please contact Marybeth Mitcham at mem467@cornell.edu or 518-668-4881. Big Cross Street School, 15 Big Cross Street, Glens Falls, NY 12801. 4/9/2019 Food Smart Families - During this program, participants will learn about nutrition and health, make and try new recipes, and participate in fun, physical-activity-based games. For more information about this program, please contact Marybeth Mitcham at mem467@cornell.edu or 518-668-4881. Location Big Cross Street School, 15 Big Cross Street, Glens Falls, NY 12801. 4/11/19 5 PM - 8 PM Hemlock Wooly Adelgid Workshop (HWA) Participants will be provided information on the importance of hemlock trees, the threat presented by HWA, and how landowners can identify and manage HWA infestations. They will also learn about other invasive pests. Please contact Dan Carusone at 518-668-4881 or djc69@cornell.edu. Location DEC, 232 Golf Course Rd., Warrensburg, NY, wheelchair accessible. 4/13/2019 New York State 4-H Shooting Sports 20th Annual Banquet & Auction Fundraiser - Tickets are available via credit card by calling 518-885-8995. Ask for Wendy McConkey. Location Fort William Henry, Lake George, NY 12845. 4/16/2019 NOON - 1:00 PM Leftover Ham Dishes - What can you do with leftover ham? Come and find out! This class will include an instructional portion as well as a time for questions and answers. For more information about this program please contact Marybeth Mitcham at mem467@cornell.edu or 518-668-4881. Location Greater Glens Falls Senior Center, 380 Glen St - #1, Glens Falls, NY 12801. 4/17 & 4/18, 2019 - Food, Fun, and Fitness - During this program, participants will learn about nutrition and health, make and try new recipes, and participate in fun, physical-activity-based games. For more information about this program please contact Marybeth Mitcham at mem467@cornell.edu or 518-668-4881. Location North Warren Central School, Route 8, Chestertown, NY 12817. 4/22 & 4/29, 2019 10:00 AM - 11:30 AM Dining With Diabetes What foods can be safely eaten while on a diabetic diet? How do you count carbs? Are there foods that should be avoided? What about physical activity; does that affect diet? This interactive class will answer all of these questions, and more! For more information about this program, please contact Marybeth Mitcham at mem467@cornell.edu or 518-668-4881. Location Lake Luzerne Senior Center, 539 Lake Avenue, Lake Luzerne, NY 12846. 4/23/2019 9:00 AM - 4:00 PM - Hunter Safety Education Certification Course - Completion of this course will enable participants to obtain their NYS DEC hunting licenses. Registration is required, along with homework to be completed before the class. For more information about this program, please contact John Bowe 518-6684881. Location Dunham's Bay Fish & Game Club, 2080 Ridge Road Queensbury, NY 12804.
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Warren County Connection (Continued from page 1)
the branch structure to increase the amount of sunlight reaching into the tree. Research into correct techniques and timing is critical before you pick up your pruners, so do your homework. See gardening.cals.cornell.edu/files for a comprehensive look at growing fruit trees, with special attention to the information on pruning. If your specialty is apples, review “Thoughts on Apple Tree Training and Pruning” as found on plant-pest-advisory.rutgers. edu. There are also a number of high-quality YouTube videos on pruning techniques for fruit trees. Remember to dip your pruners in a weak bleach solution between cuts to avoid spreading disease to other trees. The work you do now will pay off at harvest time. Divide and Conquer – Dividing and transplanting, especially fall-blooming perennials is a major task in April. The weather is cool and there is generally enough moisture in the ground for root development. Water well a day or two before you actually divide them. Some sources recommend dividing when plants are 3-4 inches high and cutting them back by a third or a half if they have gotten taller. Dig a proper hole, big enough to accommodate the roots with room to spare and deep enough so the crown of the plant will be at soil level. Add compost when giving them a new location and pot up some divisions for the Master Gardeners Plant Sale. And then – Clean out nest boxes to make room for new residents; weed; plant pansies; feed bulbs with an organic fertilizer; prune off Viburnum beetle egg cases; cut Buddleia back hard once it shows signs of growth; plant peas, carrots, spinach and radishes; weed some more; get bare-root berry bushes in the ground; prune grape vines; scout for gypsy moth and tent caterpillars; divide rhubarb plants; plant asparagus crowns; celebrate Earth Day by planting a native tree or shrub.
Rain Gardens for the North By Dr. Leonard Perry, Horticulture Professor Emeritus University of Vermont
If you’re like me, when you first heard of “rain gardens” you thought of gardening in the rain, or some tropical rain forest. Rain gardens actually are slightly sunken gardens, usually with native plants, whose purpose is to collect rain run-off. These “bioretention” gardens are easy to create, fit into odd shapes in most landscapes, and are easily maintained. While rain gardens are a destination for runoff, rain swales (longer than wide), are for water to travel through them. Up to 70 percent of pollution in our above-ground waterways comes there from storm water. About half this storm water, especially in urban areas, comes from landscapes and building roofs. Collect even some of this in your yard— in a rain garden— and you’ll be helping the environment. You don’t need a large surface area for collecting rain, or a large garden, to make a difference. Any size rain garden helps. Rain gardens can remove up to 90 percent of nutrients, and up to 80 percent of sediments, from rain runoff. They allow 30 percent more water to soak into the ground, compared to a traditional lawn. Since the idea of your rain garden is to hold large surges of water, then let it seep slowly into the soil instead of running off your property, place such a garden in low spots fed by a gentle slope, if possible. Try not to place it where water already pools, as this indicates poor drainage. It should be near drain spouts, but not too near buildings (at last 10 feet away) to avoid water seeping into base(Continued on page 4)
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ments. If the rain garden needs to be 30 feet or more away from drain spouts or runoff area, you can direct it there either with a shallow swale or buried drainage pipe. Beware of underground utilities if excavating. But if digging, don’t do so under trees or you may seriously damage tree roots. In fact, don’t place rain gardens under tree canopies where they will fill up with leaves. Make sure they are 25 feet or more away from a septic system, or wellhead. Rain gardens don’t need to be deep, only four to eight inches is sufficient. Much deeper and the garden will take too long to drain. Keep the bottoms flat to help disperse the water more evenly. Shapes are usually curved, like an oval or kidney shape, rather than a formal rectangle. The usual size to deal with runoff from most homes is 100 to 300 square feet. An ideal rain garden soil will have an infiltration rate of at least one-quarter inch per hour. What this means is that if you dig a hole in your soil, and fill it with an inch of water, in four hours it should be gone—soaked into the soil. After a heavy rain, water should be gone from a well -designed rain garden in one to two days. The purpose is to have rain soak into the soil, not just stay there as it would in a pond. Since the water from a rain garden should seep slowly into the surrounding soil, soil type is important. You don’t want clay soil that will merely hold the water. If your soil is even light clay, you should replace it for your rain garden. Merely adding sand to a clay soil likely will not help. Sandy or gravely soils, with added compost, are ideal. If replacing soil, you may need to do so to a depth of two feet. Since this is a garden, and will remain dry much of the time when not raining, what about the plants? These not only help beautify a rain garden, but also their roots create channels for water to infiltrate the soil. They absorb water, giving it off through their leaves. You may use non-native plants, but native ones are particularly adapted to local conditions and often have deep roots. You’ll want plants that aren’t too fussy, that will live both in dry conditions and during wet periods. One of my favorite plants for such conditions is the Siberian iris. Whatever plants you choose should be vigorous, to establish easily, and have healthy root systems. Large plants will establish more quickly. If you can’t afford all large plants, perhaps use 20 to 25 percent mature size
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plants, the rest being smaller.
In addition to looking for a large proportion of native plants, look for a diversity of ones with various interests—foliage, blooms at various seasons both for an attractive design and to serve pollinators, and seedheads for birds and visual interest. If you don’t find actual species, cultivars (named cultivated varieties) of them often work as well. Just make sure to choose ones with flowers as similar to the species as possible (no doubles for instance), to be most attractive to pollinators. Pollinators also will be looking for a group of the same plant—either together or scattered throughout a garden bed. The latter also will add more visual unity to your bed design. To attract pollinators, use at least six plants of each species. Consider sedges, rushes and ornamental grasses (such as switchgrass) to add with flowering perennials and shrubs. One of my hardy favorites is Blue Mohawk rush, with its upright bluish leaves about two feet tall, and grows in both dry soil and standing water. Some herbaceous perennials for northern rain gardens in shade might include Drummond’s aster, Joy-Pye weed (not really a weed), wild geranium (Geranium maculatum), cardinal flower, ostrich fern, and wild blue phlox (Phlox divaricata). Perennials for sunny rain gardens include the above plus New England aster, swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), Queen-of-the-prairie (Filipendula rubra), Helen’s flower (Helenium autumnale), daylily, Siberian iris, blazing star (Liatris), marsh marigold, great blue lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica), beebalm, summer phlox, goldenrods (one of the best perennials to provide insects for birds), spiderwort, ironweed (Vernonia), and Culver’s root (Veronicastrum). Shrubs might include redosier dogwood, elderberry, ninebark, winterberry, and viburnums such as highbush cranberry. Plants with invasive roots such as Ribbon Grass (sun) and sensitive fern (shade) may work well if there is no chance that pieces of such can wash into other waterways, escape into the wild, or take over other garden beds. Invasive plants, which spread by seeds such as the perennial purple loosestrife or shrub honeysuckle, should not be used. Once planted, keep plants well-watered, as you would any garden plants, if it doesn’t rain sufficiently. If water (Continued on page 5)
flows into your rain garden from one or two main points, you may want to place some rocks there to break the strong water flow. This will prevent erosion of soil and mulch. Finally, don’t just leave this rain garden and assume it needs no care. It may need less care than other more intensely maintained beds, but still keep it weeded and plants divided as needed. If a plant isn’t to your liking, or isn’t thriving, don’t be afraid to move or replace it. If more than rain flows into your garden, such as sediment and debris, remove it before drainage slows and plants are buried.
Mulch (two to three inches) will help plants become established, and lessen weeds. Use a shredded mulch as it will bind together and not wash away in heavy rains as wood chips might. Follow these basic tips and you’re ready to begin your rain garden, helping the environment both with water runoff and pollinators, and having an attractive garden too. You can learn more about rain gardens, with links to further resources, from the Groundwater Foundation (www.groundwater.org/action/home/raingardens.html).
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The Unwelcome House Guest: Brown Marmorated Stink Bug—A Guide for Residents, Property Managers, and Pest Management Professionals By J. Gangloff-Kaufmann, New York State Integrated Pest Management Program, Cornell University Photo by Russ Ottens, University of
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When first detected in western Maryland in 2003, most people had never heard of the brown marmorated stink bug (BMSB), also known as Halyomorpha halys. This newcomer is thought to have been accidentally introduced from Asia into the Allentown, PA area during the mid1990s. Since that time, populations have soared in the mid-Atlantic states, resulting in extensive crop damage. The BMSB is also attracted, often in large numbers, to buildings because they provide safe winter hiding spots. It is expected that the range of this invasive pest will grow. Within a few years, New Yorkers could be dealing with large numbers of BMSBs. This fact sheet provides tips for dealing with structure-invading BMSBs. The shield-shaped adults are 5/8 to 3/4 inch (17mm) long with grayishbrown speckling on the top and bottom. There are bands of light and dark along the edges of the body, giving this insect the description of “marmorated”. Light bands on antennae and legs are found on both adults and young (nymphs). Adult females lay clusters of 20-30 round light to orange-colored eggs on the undersides of leaves. The nymphs are between 1∕16 to 1/2 inch (2mm and 12mm) long. Nymphs have no wings and do not fly. They are tear-drop shaped and colored more brightly than adults, with a black and orange pattern and red eyes. There are five nymph stages (instars) that range in size from 1/8 inch to 1/2 inch (3mm to 12mm). It has been observed that the BMSB is limited to one generation per year in cooler northern parts of the Northeast. However in coastal areas there may be two during favorable seasons. (Continued on page 6)
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Brown marmorated stink bug adults emerge in April-May to mate and lay eggs through the summer. Nymphs hatch and begin to feed on juices from leaves and fruits. As numbers of BMSBs increase regionally, damage to commercial fruit production is expected. BMSB adults begin to seek protected hiding spots for overwintering. They are attracted to host trees close to structures and find gaps for entry into structures for winter protection. Although the BMSB is not a threat to human health, people become alarmed at the large numbers that invade their homes (and even hotel rooms). This insect cannot reproduce indoors, cause structural damage, or bite. They can produce unpleasant odors in large numbers. What to do? If a single or few BMSBs are found indoors, the best thing to do is to vacuum them or remove them without crushing them. Belonging to the group “stink bugs”, BMSBs will give off an unpleasant pungent smell if crushed. In the spring steps should be taken to build them out. Commonly, hundreds or thousands of BMSBs invade a home without the resident noticing. During the winter, warmth inside will draw the bugs out from under base molding, window/door trim, or ceiling vents. They will fly around the home attracted to the light outdoors. If a structure has previously become inundated with large numbers of BMSB it is a good idea to try and locate entryways. It might be a gap along a door or window frame, the chimney, or eaves. It is not recommended that homeowners use aerosol or total release fogger insecticides for BMSBs indoors. Foggers used in living areas will not prevent the emergence of more BMSBs. Even application of dust insecticides to wall voids and the attic is not advisable. The bugs will die indoors and remain there. In large numbers this could produce a terrible smell and may eventually result in an infestation of carpet beetles or other scavengers. Instead, vacuum up the bugs you see including in accessible attics. Note spots where BMSBs have come out into living spaces and seal those openings with caulk or sealant. Build them out The best way to deal with BMSBs entering the home or building is to make sure they don’t find a way in. Check the outside of the structure around windows and doors, looking for openings. Seal gaps with weatherproof sealant. Check the area under the siding near the sill plate (top of foundation). Brush away any debris and check for gaps. These must be sealed as well to build out this and all other pests.
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Make sure screens are in good shape; even small openings will allow pests in. Take air conditioners out of windows in early September or as soon as possible. The gaps and openings around an air conditioner are ideal for BMSB entry. In wallmounted air conditioners cover them as early as possible to prevent BMSB access. Check the attic eaves from the inside on a sunny day—looking for openings (you will see sunlight). These openings must be sealed but this can be done from outside. Permanent fixes (as replacing deteriorated materials) are always better than temporary ones (such as stuffing a gap with steel wool). Time your actions The timing of the BMSB life cycle in New York is unclear and probably varies from downstate to upstate. However, the BMSB is thought to begin seeking overwintering sites earlier than other fall home-invading pests, such as Asian ladybeetle and cluster flies. Adults begin to move from host plant to host plant toward structures. They are attracted to landscape shrubs including holly, crabapples and other fruiting and seed-producing plants. For severe BMSB infestations, the building and its vicinity may be treated once the insects are seen in the surrounding landscape, usually late August or early September. Use only insecticides labeled to control BMSB and for use in structures and the perimeter. Have a pest management professional treat the outer structure first and in detail. The PMP should treat eaves, soffits, roof ridge vents, flashing, chimneys, louvered vents, and around windows and doors. After treating the structure, treat the landscape shrubs to kill BMSBs. Follow all label directions. This method will not prevent future problems. An emphasis on building the bugs out is recommended for long-term control. Beware of impostors! Western conifer seed bugs stray indoors for overwintering sites but in low numbers. Boxelder bugs may appear in large numbers when there is a boxelder tree next to the house. Both can be confused with brown marmorated stink bugs. A few other stink bugs very closely resemble the BMSB with their shield shape and brown mottled color. These may be hard to distinguish without help. The brown stink bug is very similar in appearance to BMSB but is less common in the northern US. Look for white banding on antennae and tarsi to identify the BMSB. The dusky stink bug has distinctly pointed “shoulders” (the pronotum) and no white banding. The four-humped stink bug has a longer, more irregularly shaped body and no white banding. These three species of stink bugs can cause damage to crops but are not known to be nuisance pests of structures.
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Spring Things: Wildlife Babies, Heatstroke in Dogs April showers and May flowers aren’t the only signs of spring. There are also baby birds and hot dogs. Every spring the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine issues reminders about how to manage these animal signs of spring for the best outcomes. First, the wildlife babies. The tragic fact is that every spring, wildlife babies are taken from their parents by well-meaning people who believe the animals have been abandoned. While the impulse to help these “orphans” is admirable, wild babies rarely need human assistance. Here are some of the reasons that the wildlife baby you see on its own is not necessarily orphaned. First, some species, such as turtles, do not need parental care to survive. Secondly, species that are commonly hunted as prey—think deer and rabbits—use a parenting strategy in which the mothers leave the babies on their own for hours at a time, sometimes even for the whole day, to avoid drawing predators’ attention to their young. In addition, wildlife parents often hide when humans are around. So while the parents may not be visible, it is best to assume a baby wild animal is being cared for unless there is evidence that its parents have been killed or that it is not thriving. What are some indications that the wild baby may need help? If a baby is crying or making lots of noise, it might be orphaned. Healthy wildlife babies that are waiting for mom to come back are quiet so predators do not find them.
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any age. (Visit us at vetmed.illinois.edu/wildlife.) Licensed wildlife rehabilitators are the best resource for otherwise healthy babies that have truly lost their parents. People can help wild babies in a few ways, though. If you notice a baby bird that has fallen from its nest, do scoop it up and replace it. It is also helpful to keep your family’s predators—i.e., dogs and cats—indoors or away from nests of rabbits and other ground-based babies. Above all, what not to do is to attempt to raise a wildlife orphan. Not only are you ill-equipped to provide the proper diet and to teach the baby how to survive on its own, but that baby just might carry a disease that is harmful to people. Contact with wildlife is not advisable. What’s more, state and federal laws make it is illegal to raise wildlife. Now the hot dogs. As the temperatures rise each spring, so do the cases of heat stroke in dogs. Many heat strokes happen in early spring on a warm day, when owners take their previously inactive pet on a run. Heat stroke is a serious, sometimes fatal, condition that involves significant damage to organ systems, such as the liver, blood, and bone marrow. It requires immediate medical attention. The best way to avoid this is to acclimate your dogs to the increasing heat before engaging them in strenuous exercise. For example, take them on a walk on the first warm days rather than going for a run. Watch for early signs of being overheated, as known as heat exhaustion. Notice if your dogs frequently slow down, pant a lot, or simply stop running, if they are on a run. If you suspect your dog is experiencing heat stroke, your first step should be to cool the dog down with cool water. Ideally, place a fan near the wet dog to accelerate the cooling. Then call your veterinarian.
Seeing insects on a baby is a good clue that it is orphaned. If mom is taking care of the baby, she will keep insects away. If babies go too long without eating, they get cold and dehydrated. Cold babies and those with wrinkled skin (a sign of dehydration) probably have not been fed and are most likely orphaned.
Remember, dogs don’t sweat like people do. They use panting to cool themselves, so dogs that have trouble breathing are going to be more susceptible to heat stroke. Dogs that are obese, and dogs that have flat faces, such as boxers and bulldogs, are at higher risk of heat stroke.
Injured wildlife babies need human help even if mom is around. They should be rescued. The University of Illinois Wildlife Medical Clinic is here to care for injured wildlife of
Even after your pet is accustomed to summer heat, avoid exercise during the hottest times of the day, offer plenty of breaks, and be on the lookout for signs of fatigue or illness.
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New Strain of Canine Distemper Virus Arrives in North America
By Patricia Waldron is a freelance writer for the College of Veterinary Medicine, Cornell Chronicle A young dog imported from South Korea into western Canada last October brought along a dangerous hitchhiker: the Asia-1 strain of canine distemper virus (CDV), which until then had not been reported in North America. Scientists at Cornell’s Animal Health Diagnostic Center (AHDC) identified the virus in samples from the dog, which they suspect was part of a shipment of animals rescued from a Korean meat market by an animal welfare organization. Dogs that are already immunized against CDV likely are not at risk from the Asian strain, but if the virus comes into contact with wildlife, it may take a serious toll on wild carnivore populations. “Well-meaning people are trying to save animals, but when you move animals, you move their infectious disease,” said Edward Dubovi, director of the virology laboratory at the AHDC and a professor of population medicine and diagnostic sciences. “If this particular Asia-1 strain got out into the wildlife population, then it’s here forever, because you can’t get rid of it once it hits wildlife.”
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About two weeks after the sick dog’s arrival in Canada, it developed a cough and was lethargic. Ten days later, it developed muscle twitches, then seizures and ultimately was euthanized. The AHDC tested samples collected from the animal; they were negative for canine influenza virus but gave strong positive results for CDV. Genetic analysis by Randall Renshaw, Ph.D. ’92, a research associate at the AHDC, indicated that the virus was nearly identical to the Asia-1 strain of CDV circulating throughout East Asia. Canine distemper virus is highly contagious and commonly travels between hosts through the aerosols emitted when dogs bark and cough and through urine and feces. The disease starts with respiratory symptoms, such as coughing and pneumonia, and progresses into gastrointestinal illness and neurological problems. Most dogs in the United States receive vaccines for CDV to protect against native North American strains. Though CDV outbreaks occasionally pop up in animal shelters, the virus persists primarily in wildlife populations, particularly in the Northeast where canine cases of CDV are extremely rare. It circulates among numerous carnivore species, causing die-offs of raccoons, grey foxes, skunks, coyotes, wolves and other animals. Though Dubovi was unable to find out more information about how the dog arrived in Canada, he expects that it came from a Korean dog meat farm. Animal rescue organizations have worked for years to remove dogs from farms that supply dog meat markets in South Korea and other Asian countries. Due to changing attitudes toward dogs, the demand for dog meat is dropping, which enables animal welfare groups to buy out farms and help farmers to transition to new careers. Though well-intentioned, these efforts place animals in North America at risk for foreign strains of disease. The United States receives rescued companion animals from all over the world, and any of these animals could be carrying viruses, bacteria and parasites not commonly seen in North America. Animals raised for meat in countries with lax antibiotics regulations are at especially high risk of carrying drug-resistant strains of bacteria. The canine influenza virus that first appeared in the Chicago area in 2015 was traced back to rescued Korean dogs. “The genetic analysis clearly linked the virus to recent Korean H3N2 influenza strains,” said Dubovi. “That particular strain of flu had been circulating in Asia, China and (Continued on page 9)
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Korea for probably 10 years prior to its arrival in the U.S.” Dubovi estimates that the recent canine influenza outbreak has cost U.S. dog owners up to $75 million nationwide for diagnostic testing and vaccinations. Keeping new infectious organisms out of the U.S. is challenging because there is virtually no federal oversight of imported companion animals. The U.S. Department of Agriculture oversees only the trade of livestock products to protect U.S. ranching and dairy operations. For dogs entering the United States and Canada, a rabies certificate is the sole requirement. In some countries, however, people buy fake certificates, as indicated by a handful of rabies-infected dogs that arrived from India, Iraq and Egypt in the last two decades. Rescue dogs flown in from other countries frequently pass through airports in New York City and Los Angeles. In theory, California and New York could pass regulations for importing companion animals, but these laws would not apply to border crossing in other states. “It’s a 50-state free-for-all with regard to companion animals,” Dubovi said. “It’s a very unsatisfactory situation if you’re trying to control infectious diseases in our domestic cats and dogs.” Concerned pet owners could also pressure rescue groups to enact better testing and quarantine protocols when transporting foreign animals to the United States, Dubovi said. It is not yet known whether the Asia-1 strain of the canine distemper virus has been contained or if it is here to stay in North America. This case is “the canary in the mineshaft,” Dubovi said. “There’s probably a whole host of other things we haven’t tested for,” he said. “If we aren’t looking for it, we aren’t going to find it until it’s too late.”
Keep Tech Support Strangers Out of Your Computer By Lisa Lake, Consumer Education Specialist, FTC If you need tech help with your computer, where do you go? Most of us probably search online. But your online search can lead you straight to scammers who scare you into thinking your computer is in dire need of repair...and then sell you costly security software that you don't need. That’s just what happened in the FTC’s lawsuit against Elite IT Partners, Inc., announced today as part of a massive law enforcement sweep. According to the complaint, Elite bought key words on Google that let them target people searching for how to recover lost passwords. You’d fill out an online form and give your contact information. Then, says the FTC, Elite’s telemarketers would call and ask to get online access to your computer – supposedly to check for problems. Once they were in, the caller would show you fake “evidence” of viruses or other threats that, they said, had to be removed right away. Then came the sales pitches. Elite allegedly got people – many of them older adults – to pay hundreds of dollars for unnecessary repairs and maintenance programs. If you find yourself in a similar situation, here are some steps you can take: If you’re looking for tech support, go to a company you
know and trust, or get help from a knowledgeable friend or family member. If you search online for help, search on the company name plus “scam,” “review,” or “complaint.” If you get a phone call you didn’t expect from someone who says there’s a problem with your computer, hang up. Never call a number in a pop-up that warns you of computer problems. Real security warnings will never ask you to call a phone number. If you think there’s a problem with your computer, update its security software and run a scan. If you spot a tech support scam, tell the FTC: www.ftc.gov/ complaint. And learn more at www.ftc.gov/techsupport scams.
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Warren County Connection
Get a Jump Start on Your Spring Cleaning I love spring cleaning. Well, I love spring. I wish someone else would do the cleaning. It does feel nice to have everything clean and sparkling for those sunny spring days. According to a 2018 survey by the American Cleaning Institute, nearly 76% of households engage in spring cleaning each year. These spring cleaners report deep cleaning and clearing clutter as the top two reasons for this annual springtime spruce up. If you want to join the springtime cleaning craze but aren’t sure how to start, here are a few ideas: Clear the Clutter Personal belongings hold a host of memories and other emotional attachments. This means stuff can accumulate in closets, drawers, cabinets, and other places. In my own life, I try to get rid of items I haven’t used in the last year. Others may use different criteria. Pick a closet, cabinet, or other area to de-clutter and start by sorting. Separate items into boxes or baskets labeled: Keep, Donate/Sell, Recycle, Trash. This is also a great way to help children make decisions about their stuff. It always makes me feel better to clear the clutter and organize a messy cabinet or closet. Deep Cleaning Deep cleaning involves going through each room and cleaning it to a higher standard or reaching dirt that might get missed in a regular cleaning routine. On deep cleaning days, wash window and shower curtains, wash windows and mirrors, scrub floors, wash or wipe down walls, baseboards, and doors. Dust or wipe down light fixtures, ceiling fans, furniture, and shelves. Other tasks might include vacuuming under furniture, cleaning the carpets and rugs, and cleaning under and behind appliances. Spring cleaning takes a little extra elbow grease compared to the regular cleaning routine. If you find this overwhelming, start small by choosing a room or even smaller by choosing a closet or cabinet. Once you see the difference, it will motivate you to tackle the next job. References: Healthy Homes: Dealing with Household Clutter. 2015. Available at: https://secure.caes.uga.edu/extension/publications/files/pdf/C%201067_1.PDF Spring Cleaning Tips Available at: https://lancaster.unl.edu/home/articles/ 2005/springcleaning.shtml
The Ketogenic Diet: Is It For You? By Katie Greenawalt, MS, CHES, Extension Educator, Food, Families & Health, Penn State Extension The ketogenic or "keto" diet for weight loss is stirring up conversation in the nutrition community. Before deciding if this diet is for you, it is important to explore both sides of the issue. Every few seasons a fad diet gets its chance in the spotlight. This season, the ketogenic or “keto” diet is taking center stage. A ketogenic diet (KD) is very low in carbohydrate, moderate in protein, and high in fat. Originally developed to treat epilepsy in children, researchers are now exploring the KD in cancer, obesity, type 2 diabetes, Alzheimer’s disease, inflammation, and movement and neurological disorders treatment. The KD for weight loss is stirring up conversation in the nutrition community. Before deciding if this diet is for you, it is important to explore both sides of the issue. The ketogenic diet is characterized by a reduction in carbohydrate and an increase in protein and fat. By drastically decreasing carbohydrate intake and increasing fat and protein consumption, the body goes into a state called ketosis. Normally, carbohydrates are the body’s preferred source of energy. However, when carbohydrates are not available, other sources must be used for energy. Simply put, during the process of ketosis the body breaks down fat, turns it into ketones, and uses those ketones for energy. In other words, the body uses fat as its main energy source. There is no standard ketogenic diet, and the amount of carbohydrate, protein, and fat consumed while following this diet can vary. On average, the recommended carbohydrate intake for someone on the keto diet is approximately 20-30 grams per day. This would equate to the amount of carbohydrate in a small to medium sized apple. The Modified Atkins Diet is a type of KD that limits carbohydrate to 20 grams per day but does not restrict protein, fat, or total calories. Because the ketogenic diet is a high fat diet, the majority of an individual’s calories come from fats. In fact, fat makes up about 70% of the daily caloric intake, while protein makes up about 25%. Typical foods a person following a KD eat are fish, poultry, other meats, whole eggs, most types of cheese, and moderate amounts of nuts, butter, margarine, cream, mayonnaise and oils. Limited foods include fruits, starchy type vegetables, grains, and high-sugar peppers, onions, (Continued on page 11)
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tomatoes and sugar. The drastic differences between the ketogenic diet and a normal, healthy eating plan has led to questions about the diet’s safety and long-term effectiveness for weight loss. Research has shown some evidence of effectiveness in short-term weight loss in individuals following a keto diet. In a 4-month study comparing a KD to a lowfat diet, the KD group lost 6% more body weight on average than the low-fat diet group. Another study over a 6-month period determined that weight loss was greater in subjects on a KD versus those on a standard, lowcalorie diet. Additionally, these studies reported improvements in blood sugar, cholesterol, and triglyceride levels in participants following a KD. Nonetheless, adverse effects such as constipation, headache, muscle cramps, and fatigue were more common in those following a KD. It is important to note that despite these studies, the long-term effectiveness of the KD has not been well researched. The ability to maintain weight loss and the occurrence of side effects past one year is unknown. It is important to recognize the differences between the ketogenic diet and the Dietary Guidelines for Americans. The 2015-2020 Dietary Guidelines for Americans recommend consuming a healthy eating pattern that accounts for all foods and beverages within an appropriate calorie level. The guidelines identify a healthy eating pattern to include a variety of vegetables, fruits, especially whole fruits and grains, at least half of which are whole grains. These are food groups that are restricted with the keto diet. In addition, the dietary guidelines recommend consumption of heart healthy, unsaturated fats, such as oils, and a reduction of saturated fat found in meat and high fat dairy foods to less than 10% of total calories per day. A diet too high in saturated fat increases the risk for heart disease. Before starting any diet, it is essential to assess its safety and potential impact on your health. The ketogenic diet is not recommended for people with kidney problems, liver disease, gastroesophageal reflux (GERD), heart concerns, or chronic constipation. People with diabetes should talk to their doctor to make sure this diet does not interfere with their medications or other health complications. In any case, do not begin any new diet without first talking to your doctor or registered dietitian to see if it is appropriate for you.
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Chicken Alfredo Pasta Ingredients • 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts • 1 tablespoon oil (canola or vegetable) • 2 1/2 cups whole wheat penne or rotini pasta • 1 package (16 ounces) frozen chopped broccoli • 1 cup nonfat milk • 8 ounces low-fat cream cheese, cubed • 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder • 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated • 1/2 teaspoon salt • 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper Instructions 1. Remove fat from chicken and cut meat into bite-sized pieces on a cutting board. Wash hands. 2. Begin heating water to boiling in a large pot for pasta. 3. Heat oil in a large skillet on medium high. Add chicken cubes to skillet when oil is hot and stir to coat with oil. Cook the chicken for 20 seconds before stirring again. Cook the chicken for 7 to 9 minutes. Turn the chicken cubes every 20 to 30 seconds. 4. Remove chicken from skillet when it is done cooking and is 165ºF. Cover it to keep it warm. 5. Cook the pasta using directions on package. Add the frozen broccoli the last 3 minutes of cooking. Drain the water from the pasta and broccoli. Return food to the pot. Do not cover. 6. Add the milk and cream cheese to the skillet. Stir the mixture constantly over low heat. The mixture will thicken and be smooth. 7. Add the garlic powder, Parmesan cheese, salt, and pepper. Stir mixture. Then add cooked chicken and heat mixture. 8. Combine meat mixture with the pasta and broccoli mixture. Serve. Tips You can use boneless chicken thighs and legs or leftover chicken instead of chicken breasts. You can use other vegetables instead of broccoli. Add a few red pepper flakes for color and spice. Be sure to use a clean cutting board. Wash your hands before and after handling raw chicken. Source: Iowa State University Extension and Outreach
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