BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL STORIES TO INSPIRE THE BRITISH ISLES
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G o o dwo o d C o t t aG e s Hidden within 11,000 acres of the Goodwood estate, you will find six cottages, each offering a slice of picture perfect country living. With beautiful interiors by Cindy Leveson, each cottage brings its own charm. Here you will find supremely comfortable beds, roll top baths, private gardens, roaring fires and even bunk beds for dogs. Glass of wine in hand, a good book in the other, warmed by a roaring fire. This is the good life. Only at Goodwood goodwood.com/cottages
BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL
WELCOME
H
as this summer's extreme weather renewed your appreciation for the traditional rhythm of British seasons? For most of us, it's been an absolute scorcher, and as we reach the crisp, welcoming ‘ber’ months, I am sure I'm not alone in breathing a huge sigh of relief. Whether it’s countryside strolls with the crunch of fallen leaves underfoot, fairy-lit market towns wrapped up for Christmas, or peaceful, secluded coastlines followed by cosy evenings by a crackling fire, this time of year feels perfect for exploring the UK’s most captivating corners – without the summer crowds – and without the sweltering sun. Why not set your bar high on a trip of a lifetime? Walking an 84-mile National Trail and staying in historic castles and grand country estates along the route, perhaps? I hope you find inspiration from my 18-page special in this edition (Once-in-a-lifetime Hadrian’s Wall Experience, p58). Approaching travel a little differently should be applauded, and at Moor Hall (A stay to savour, p28), they have turned the traditional dinner, bed, and breakfast format on its head by inviting guests to arrive in time for a sprawling, three-Michelin-starred lunch. The Beckford Group is also showing an appetite for reinvention with the opening of their first hotel, Teffont House (From pubs to pillowcases, p46). Elsewhere, we mark 25 years of the Jurassic Coast as a UNESCO World Heritage site (Where history meets the horizon, p35), trace Scotland’s Highlands on the North Coast 500 (The long road north, p76), and discover why harvest season makes autumn the ultimate time for vineyard stays in Kent and Sussex (Rooted in the region, p82). And if a vibrant cultural break is on your festive wishlist, explore our ten exceptionally placed UK city hotels (In the heart of it, p40). Wherever this season takes you, I hope this issue invites you to taste the landscape, slow down, and discover the beauty of the British Isles.
Cover Image: Our journalist Karolina Wiercigroch takes a picture of the expansive view from the rocky ridge of Ben Hope, the most northerly Munro in the Scottish Highlands. Read more in Karolina's article The long road north, p40 Contributions: Sophie Farrah, Victoria Gill, Jane Knight, Daisy May, Rebecca Pitcairn, Karolina Wiercigroch, Jessica Way Contact us: hello@britishtraveljournal.com +44 1489 660 680 Published by: Contista Media Ltd contistamedia.co.uk ibe to the scr
STORIES TO INSPIRE THE BRITISH ISLES
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A week of food, art, music and island life, shaped by the turning season
AUTUMN TIDE FESTIVAL 10 – 17 OCTOBER 2026
When summer slips away, another side of Tresco comes into view. Days of garden wanderings, sea swims and salt-air walks. Evenings of seasonal suppers, local ales, live music and fireside conversation. Across the week, islanders, artists and nature lovers lead walks, workshops and gatherings rooted in the landscape. Discover Tresco at the year’s golden hour.
DISCOVER MORE TRESCO.CO.UK/AUTUMN–TIDE
28 MILES OFF THE CORNISH COAST. Somewhere else altogether.
CONTENTS
AUTUMN/WINTER 2026 | ISSUE 25
28
09
Travel News
From historic townhouses and rustic woodland treehouses to restorative wellness retreats and the season's most compelling cultural experiences, explore our handpicked guide to the best new places to stay, escape, and recharge this season.
28
A stay to savour
35
Where history meets the horizon
Moor Hall is flipping the script on the traditional gourmet break. Here, the three-Michelin-starred experience begins with a leisurely, sprawling lunch, leaving the rest of the day – and evening – to wander the estate’s kitchen gardens or retreat to one of the sleek, timber-clad garden cabins. After a day of exploring this 'gastronomic hamlet', a light supper is left in your room.
As the Jurassic Coast marks 25 years as a UNESCO World Heritage site, discover the breathtaking drama of England’s ancient shoreline. From the iconic stone arches of Durdle Door to the fossil-rich beaches of Lyme Regis, we explore Dorset's deep geological history and vibrant culinary scene.
40
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In the heart of it
The best city breaks begin with the perfect address. We’ve curated ten exceptionally well-placed hotels across the UK, putting the very best of each destination – from historic landmarks and independent boutiques to vibrant culture and coastal charm – ensuring you stay right in the heart of the action.
46
From pubs to pillowcases
After redefining the modern British gastropub, the Beckford Group has taken a bold step into hoteliering with the launch of its first hotel, Teffont House, and the stylish restaurant-with-rooms, Corsham House. Nestled in the heart of Wiltshire, these new openings create a stay that feels less like checking into a hotel and more like being welcomed into a home.
57
Subscribe to the Journal
Don't miss our subscription gift offer – treat yourself or give the ultimate Christmas gift this season and receive British Travel Journal straight to your door, and a sweet little gift box containing all of Bramley’s mostloved products – perfect to take with you on your travels.
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58
Once-in-a-lifetime Hadrian’s Wall experience
Spanning 80 miles from coast to coast, the Hadrian’s Wall Path offers a rare journey through Northern England’s most soul-stirring landscapes. Discover the art of slow, mindful travel, where ancient trails are paired with nights spent in luxury.
76
The long road north
The North Coast 500 offers the ultimate Scottish road trip through the wild heart of the Highlands. From jagged Munros and mirror-like lochs to remote, wave-battered coastlines, we trace this iconic circular route through the country’s most breathtaking scenery — while checking into some of the region’s most characterful coastal retreats.
82
Rooted in the region
British vineyard visits shouldn’t be reserved for the height of summer. Kent and Sussex offer
6 BritishTravelJournal.com
the perfect setting for an autumnal escape, where rolling vines meet wholesome pub food, boutique hotels, and historic manor houses. We explore the region's finest vineyard stays with characterful places to stay, for unwinding amidst the golden hues of the harvest season.
92
Close encounters
From roaring lions and breaching whales to elusive beavers and swirling starling murmurations, we round up ten breaks across the UK that combine remarkable wildlife encounters with memorable places to stay.
98
The final word
Latest must-have autumn and winter travel essentials, from cosy skincare and stylish travel gear to inspiring reads, perfect for gifting to a loved one or tucking into your own suitcase. Plus, don’t miss our seasonal travel inspired crossword.
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Autumn/Winter TRAVEL NEWS Whether you’re after a romantic bolthole, a family getaway, a fantastic pub stay, or a luxury hotel, here are some of our favourite new places to stay. Text by Jane Knight
SEASONAL HIGHLIGHT
HOTELS
SELF-CATERING
WELLNESS
EVENTS & EXPERIENCES
from page 10
from page 16
from page 20
from page 23
Pictured above left-right: Yarlington Lodge (main image); St Enodoc; Otter Lodge; Bishopstrow Spa; Balvaird Castle.
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HOTELS ROSS-ON-WYE
The Riverside Inn
After opening as a pub and restaurant last year, this inn on the banks of the River Wye has now added five spoiling but playful bedrooms that wouldn’t look out of place in the Cotswolds. Indian shutters are repurposed as bathroom doors and vintage shoe trees and spirit levels feature as coat hooks. Three bedrooms have roll-top baths; one has a trundle bed for children. Dogs are welcome, and there’s gun storage for shooting parties. Doubles from £180, with breakfast; riversideinn-wyestreet.com
COUNTY DURHAM
Rockliffe Hall
Fresh from a multi-million-pound transformation, Rockliffe Hall now has a new line-up of restaurants and bars along with a third fewer bedrooms. Central to the now 43-bedroom hotel is Atlas, the gastronomic restaurant whose menu is inspired by the travels of culinary director James Close, formerly chef patron of the two-Michelin-starred Raby Hunt. Guests can also eat in an all-day Italian-American restaurant. Doubles from £550, with breakfast; rockliffehall.com
LONDON
St. Clement
This highly anticipated opening at 180 The Thames from Nick Jones, former CEO of Soho House, is a love letter to the capital. Situated in the historic Temple area, the hotel offers 90 rooms and 15 River Lofts with panoramic views stretching from Westminster to Tower Bridge. Designed with a ‘curated by Londoners, for Londoners’ ethos, featuring complimentary minibars, curated grooming products and 10-minute tea service arranged via WhatsApp. Doubles from £800, River Lofts, £2,500, Penthouses, £15,000 per night; stclementlondon.com 10 BritishTravelJournal.com
HOTELS GLOUCESTERSHIRE
Treehouses at Calcot Manor
Want to get back to nature but still like some luxury? Calcot Manor has just opened a collection of two-bedroom treehouses which tick the box. They each come with a sauna on the balcony as well as details such as binoculars for bird watching and a pantry of local produce to plunder. As for meals, you can order from room service and eat in the privacy of your own hideaway. From £1,180 for four, with breakfast; calcot.co
SOMERSET
Parade Bath
If you agree with Jane Austen when she wrote ‘Who can ever be tired of Bath?’, take a look at its latest hotel, due to open in September. Set across three Grade I listed Georgian townhouses overlooking Parade Gardens and Bath Abbey, Parade Hotel is filled with original features such as wood panelling, sash windows and sedan chair hallways. Among its 49 bedrooms are three spa garden rooms with living grass roofs in the boutique Courtyard Spa, with sauna, cold plunge, hot tub and treatment room. Doubles from £319, with breakfast; paradehotelbath.com
WALES
Penmaenuchaf
It’s been four long years but this hotel at the slopes of Cadair Idris, overlooking the Mawddach Estuary, has finally completed its transformation at the hands of Nicola Harding, opening the last of five redesigned bedrooms and adding a woodpanelled Music Room and Morning room along with a reimagined restaurant with tented ceiling and expanded library. Doubles from £260, with breakfast; penmaenuchaf.co.uk
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HOTELS LONDON
The St. Regis
This landmark opening in the heart of Mayfair brings the brand’s storied legacy to the capital. The 193-room hotel features interiors inspired by the neighbourhood’s bespoke fashion houses and galleries – including a living art collection curated by the Sarabande Foundation. Highlights include an exclusive Penthouse Suite with panoramic city views, an all-day French brasserie, Le Perroquet, by Chef Daniel Rose, and the brand’s signature Butler Service. Prices yet to be announced; stregislondon.co.uk
BERKSHIRE
Castle Hotel Windsor
Following a landmark £9.5 million transformation, one of Windsor’s oldest hospitality addresses has officially reopened its doors. First recorded in 1528 as The Mermaid Inn, the historic hotel on Windsor High Street blends its 500-year heritage with Georgian-inspired interiors, restored panelling and British fabrics. At the heart of the reopening is Penningtons, a new British brasserie with seasonal produce alongside a vibrant bar with custom cocktails by flavourist Zoe Burgess. Doubles from £188 with breakfast; castlehotelwindsor.com
DORSET
Outlaw House
Acclaimed seafood chef Nathan Outlaw is behind this new hotel in Canford Cliffs. Housed in the former Loch Fyne restaurant, the concept brings together a coastal brasserie, a vibrant bar, and boutique rooms, all focused on celebrating the produce and suppliers of Dorset and the South West. Expect a seasonal menu featuring coastal classics – such as Dorset crab scones and roasted bass with spiced butter – in a relaxed, high-quality setting. Doubles from £185, with breakfast; outlawhouse.co.uk 12 BritishTravelJournal.com
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From contemporary coastal barn conversions to charming thatched cottages, we’ve hand-picked the very best properties to bring you holiday memories to treasure.
Pure Beauty Pure Escapism
HOTELS CORNWALL
St Edonoc
After adding the St Edonoc hotel in Rock to their Ainsworth Collection last year, Paul and Emma Ainsworth have reopened it following a ninemonth renovation. Chef Paul is overseeing the grill restaurant and a family-friendly all-day offering, while Emma is in charge of the décor in the 21 rooms. Overlooking the Camel Estuary, the hotel sits in landscaped gardens between sand dunes and has direct access to St Edonoc Golf Club. Doubles from £245, with breakfast; st-enodoc-hotel.co.uk
HAMPSHIRE
The Candover
Banoffee pie at breakfast and rooms named after Jane Austen characters are just two of the charming elements at this swish pub with rooms half an hour from Winchester. They have been tastefully styled with modern four posters and half testers; Bingley and Darcy are the biggest, with views overlooking the village church. If you like the sparkling wine served from the oak horseshoe bar, it’s a five-minute walk to Candover Brook Vineyard for some more. Doubles from £200, with breakfast; thecandover.com
SCOTLAND
NYX Edinburgh
Scottish charm meets bold design at this Edinburgh hotel, the latest outpost from NYX, which has properties in European cultural hotspots such as Berlin, Ibiza, Dublin and London. Its industrial-chic Clash Bar and Restaurant, in particular, is full of vibrant colours, and the 125 rooms come with patterned walls. On Jeffrey Street, it’s close to both the Royal Mile and Waverley Station. Doubles from £278, with breakfast; nyx-hotels.co.uk
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SELF-CATERING NORTHUMBERLAND
Romantic folly
The setting couldn’t be more romantic, beside a whimsical 18th-century folly commissioned by the Duke of Northumberland in memory of his wife. Inside, gothic Ratcheugh Crag Cottage is pretty special too, with a spiral staircase leading from the open-plan living space to a bedroom with a half-tester bed and views across the countryside to Alnwick and Dunstanburgh Castles, as well as the Farne Islands. Guests have private access to the surrounding estate. Two nights for two from €550; cabu.co.uk
CUMBRIA
Autumn in the Lakes
Forget those hosts of golden daffodils and head to the Lake District in the autumn, when it’s quieter and more colourful. Gutherscale Lodge is newly opened by local specialists Laik and has panoramic fell views, walks from the doorstep and Derwentwater just a short stroll away. It has four bedrooms, underfloor heating and a wood burner to keep things cosy. The Swinside Inn is just 15 minutes away on foot. Two nights for eight from £1,285; laik.co.uk
CORNWALL
Design house
When you see the interiors of Bamboo House, you may not want to leave – with soft woods and lime-plastered walls in its open-plan living area plus three bedrooms, it’s got a Scandi chic feel to it with a touch of Japanese zen. That would be a shame though, as there are river walks and beaches for surfing outside, plus a sauna once you return. It’s ten minutes from St Ives. A night for six from £790; kiphideaways.com 16 BritishTravelJournal.com
SELF-CATERING SOMERSET
The Newt for groups
The Newt hotel has opened Yarlington Lodge for exclusive self-catering group hire on an estate Henry VIII gifted to two of his queens. The trio of properties – the Main House, the Coach House and the Cottage in the Wall – can be rented individually or as a group of 32 in 16 bedrooms. They share the walled garden, grounds, indooroutdoor pool and a separate house for entertaining and have access to The Newt. A night for 32 from £10,500; thenewtinsomerset.com
SCOTLAND
Lakeside romance
Perched on the water’s edge of Loch Linnhe, this charming cottage for two, Camusasaig, offers the kind of seclusion usually found in the pages of a Scottish novel. Inside, the pretty sitting room is designed for watching the light fade over the water. The garden features decades-old trees and lawns that slope down to the shore – perfect for fishing for mackerel or spotting passing otters and seals. Plus, you are a short stroll from Ardgour Ales’ popular Friday pizza nights or a quick ferry ride to Fort William and the towering peaks of Ben Nevis. 7 nights from £880; classic.co.uk
NORFOLK
The Water Tower
Rising above the treetops on the private Sandringham Estate, this 1877 neo-Byzantine landmark has been transformed into a romantic retreat for two. Built to serve the estate, the tower’s circular, four-level interior now features heritage-inspired décor and reclaimed materials. The unique rooftop terrace, created inside the original 32,000-gallon cast-iron water tank, offers uninterrupted 360-degree views of the countryside. Guests can explore the historic grounds of the Royal Estate, with North Norfolk’s beaches just a short drive away. Weekly rates from £1,500; oliverstravels.com BritishTravelJournal.com 17
SELF-CATERING SUFFOLK
Luxury lake lodge
It may only have one bedroom, but this thatched boathouse, on Wilderness Reserve’s Blyth Estate, not only has its own pool and sunken hot tub, but also a private sauna, steam room and treatment room. Oh, and don’t forget the rowing boat for exploring the kilometre-long Blyth Valley Lake. Inside, Otter Lodge has timber beams, chic décor and otters carved around the spectacular fireplace. A night for two from £1,680; wildernessreserve.com
YORKSHIRE
Green getaway
Get away from it all on a 2,500-acre nature regeneration estate near Ilkley in Yorkshire. Denton Reserve has just opened two large family-friendly and screen-free houses in a remote corner of Denton Moor with a woodfired sauna, a lake for wild swimming. Three-bedroom Dunkirk Barn and fourbedroom Dunkirk Farm House have been designed using reclaimed materials and natural fibres. There are moorland hikes from the door, including a 30-minute walk to the estate’s inn for lunch or dinner. A night from £450 in Dunkirk Farm House and £500 in Dunkirk Barn; dentonreserve.co.uk
SCOTLAND
Love nest for two
The perfect place to snuggle up in autumn, The Nest comes with a log burner, projector, vinyl collection for cosy evenings by the fire and freestanding bath beneath a skylight for stargazing. It’s just five minutes from the harbour town of Oban with its whisky distillery. Take ferries to the Hebridean islands of Mull and Iona, feast on fresh seafood, then return to the private woodland to hunker down for the night. A night for two from £250; sandandstoneescapes.com
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Sark Timeless by Nature
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WELLNESS SOMERSET
Medicinal mushrooms
Not magic mushrooms but medicinal ones form the basis of this two-night November retreat from 42 Acres on its 173-acre regenerative estate in Frome. During the wild weekend, from November 6-8, participants will carry out mindful foraging and then create remedies based on the healing potential of fungi. There are also guided rewilding walks, restorative chi gong, wild swimming in the 11-acre lake and a wood-fired sauna. Two nights with activities and meals from £600pp; 42acres.com
WILTSHIRE
Experience-led spa
From cacao rituals and drumming circles for mental wellbeing to chakra dance and free movement classes for emotional release, Bishopstrow Hotel is encouraging its guests to reconnect with themselves and the natural world. A revamped spa offering shifts away from traditional treatments to experienceled wellbeing. There are also sound baths and breathwork, thermal journeys and forest bathing. Doubles from £200, with breakfast; bishopstrowhotel.com
SCOTLAND
Escape to the Scottish Borders
Set across 300 acres of rolling estate land, the five-star manor SCHLOSS Roxburghe has unveiled its ultimate seasonal wellness retreat. At the heart of the experience is a contemporary spa featuring a heated outdoor infinity pool with panoramic estate views, a Finnish sauna, steam room, plunge pool, and a menu of bespoke treatments. Stay in a cottage with a private sauna. Doubles from £220 per night for self-catering cottages and £240 per night for hotel rooms and suites; schlosshotel-roxburghe.com 20 BritishTravelJournal.com
WELLNESS CORNWALL
Cornish Bath House at Bedruthan
What could be more relaxing than a guided coastal wellbeing experience on the clifftop overlooking the Atlantic Ocean this autumn. Bedruthan Hotel is introducing the three-hour sessions, which include a herbal sauna infused with seasonal botanicals, a traditional sauna, ladle and bucket showers and a cold immersion pool. Outdoor hot tubs and fireside seating will also feature. From £55pp for a three-hour session; bedruthan.com
CORNWALL
Padel on the farm
As padel sweeps the nation, Trevear Farm near Padstow has added three new courts along with a dedicated clubhouse and a sauna for relaxing after a game. The secluded retreat in 75 acres of North Cornwall countryside already has a well-equipped gym, indoor swimming pool, steam room and treatment room where guests can try TMJ (jaw tension) and deep-tissue Raynor Massages. Private yoga, Pilates and personal training are also available. The eight cottages feature stone walls and timber beams. Three nights for two from £956; trevearfarm.co.uk
ISLES OF SCILLY
Restoration retreat
You’ll get a zing in your step just by being on the car-free island of Tresco in the Isles of Scilly. Add to it with a specialist yoga and meditation retreat with island yogi Gem Hansen. From December 4-7, the getaway includes four yoga sessions, a meditative woodland walk and entry to the spa and Abbey Garden, as well as three nights’ B&B, staying at The New Inn. Retreat from £476pp; tresco.co.uk
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LO O K I N G F O R N E W H O R I ZO N S ? Explore the coast of the UK and its wild isles with a fully crewed sailing holiday, from Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly to the Scottish Hebrides and St Kilda. Experience wildlife encounters, learn new skills and explore amazing locations from a different perspective. Book a berth, a cabin or a private charter and discover the world under sail.
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W H I T M O O R FA R M by Morgan Signature Collection
T h e L u x u r y of S p e n d i n g W i n t e r in the E nglish Countryside
There is something undeniably com orting about winter — slower mornings, crisp countryside walks, and the simple pleasure o coming indoors to a steaming cup o hot cocoa. nd with the estive season ust around the corner, many o us are looking orward to a little time away with riends and amily. Just a 30-minute train ride from London, you’ll find Whitmoor arm, nestled in the beautiful urrey countryside. et across 3 acres of meadow and woodland, the farm is home to five beautifully appointed self-caterin cotta es, ran in from cosy one-bedroom stays to spacious two-bedroom cotta es, with some featurin bun beds. Each cottage is designed to feel less li e a holiday rental and ore li e a ho e you’ll never want to leave. tart the day with a ga e of tennis with the fa ily or head out for a wal along the countryside trails as the cris winter air settles over the fields. hen, as afternoon turns to evening, a e your way ac to the cottage, get cosy and en oy so e well-deserved ti e together.
NO EXPE NE
EVENTS & EXPERIENCES CHESTER
World Town Crier Tournament
Oyez! Oyez! Some 25 town criers from eight countries, including Australia and Canada, are due to attend this tournament, which returns to Chester from September 22-26 for the first time since 2014. Expect colourful costumes, some impressive lung capacity and plenty of cries echoing off the Roman walls. Combine a city visit with a walk along the 71-mile North Cheshire Way, which celebrates its 20th anniversary in September. Free; visitcheshire.com
KENT
Eleanor of Castile at Leeds Castle
Edward I was so enamoured of his queen, Eleanor, that when she died, he had a dozen crosses built wherever her body rested overnight on its journey to the capital, including the one outside London’s Charing Cross station. Find out more about the queen from her avatar in an interactive exhibition at Leeds Castle, of which she was the first female owner. If you want to extend your stay overnight, there are holiday cottages, lodges and castle stays. Exhibition until November 1; £34.50; leeds-castle.com
PERTHSHIRE
Balvaird Castle reopens
The 15th-century tower house – which doubled as Castle Leathers in the Outlander prequel, Blood of My Blood – is welcoming visitors for guided tours for the first time in over a decade. Built in 1495 for the wealthy Murray family, this stunning property set within the Ochil Hills offers exceptional architecture, roof-walk views, and a fascinating history. Castle tours run on selected dates until 3 October from £6.50; historicenvironment.scot BritishTravelJournal.com 23
EVENTS & EXPERIENCES HEREFORDSHIRE
Wine tasting break
Better known for its cider than its vineyards, Herefordshire is launching its first wine-tasting break this autumn, featuring three wine-tasting estates. Take an e-bike or guided walk through White Heron Estate, walk and taste at Frome Valley Vineyard and taste ‘direct from the tank’ at 1276 Wines. There’s also the option to stay over for two nights at White Heron. Two-night trip £555pp or £255pp for tasting day only; whiteheronestate.com
PERTHSHIRE
Deer People II
Acclaimed Highland artist Ian MacGillivray brings his latest exhibition, Deer People II, to The House of Bruar, a Scottish country life destination in Blair Atholl, running from September 12 to October 12. Following his compelling signature landscapes and acclaimed book Deer People, which documented the lives and work of 24 people dedicated to the red deer of northern Scotland, this stunning new exhibition is a collection of portraits celebrating them. Free; houseofbruar.com
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE
D-Day display
Watch the sun rise or set on 1,476 life-style silhouettes created by the charity Standing With Giants to commemorate those who gave their lives for freedom during the D-Day landings. From October 21 to November 29, the installation will be on show at Waddesdon Manor, built by Ferdinand de Rothschild, with special dawn and dusk openings, including musical performances and events. A linked display will be on show in the manor. Free with Grounds Admission; waddesdon.org.uk 24 BritishTravelJournal.com
SPECIAL FEATURE
BATTERSEA POWER STATION London’s Iconic Landmark Reimagined
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Plus, don't miss The Chimney Lift Experience – taking visitors 109 metres up the north-west chimney for breathtaking 360-degree panoramic views across London’s iconic skyline. Whether shopping for highend fashion, sampling international cuisine, or simply relaxing by the river, Battersea Power Station offers an unforgettable British travel experience. Plan your visit at batterseapowerstation.co.uk
IMAGES © JOSHUA ATKINS / NEON WORLD HERITAGE EXHIBITIONS
tanding proudly along the Thames, and once supplying a fifth of London's electricity, the iconic Grade II* listed Battersea Power Station has undergone a monumental transformation, reopening as one of the capital's most captivating mixed-use destinations. Inside, this magnificent landmark Art Deco Turbine Halls now showcase over 150 premier shopping boutiques, featuring world-renowned British and international brands such as CHANEL, Jo Malone London, Hackett, and lululemon. Food lovers can explore over 50 world-class cafes, bars, and signature eateries, ranging from Gordon Ramsay Street Pizza and Cinnamon Kitchen to sweet delights from Läderach and Venchi. Beyond shopping and gastronomy, the sprawling 42-acre riverside neighbourhood features lush green parks, padel courts, a luxury cinema, riverside iceskating (6 November 2026 – 3 January 2026) and cultural highlights including Ramses and the Pharaoh’s Gold: The Exhibition, showing until 1 January 2027.
BritishTravelJournal.com 25
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A stay to savour 28 BritishTravelJournal.com
One of just ten three Michelin-starred restaurants in the UK, Moor Hall has reinvented the traditional gourmet break. British Travel Journal discovers an unforgettable stay where lunch, not dinner, takes centre stage.
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Text by Sophie Farrah
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arrive at Moor Hall with an hour to spare, but a flat tyre promptly threw a spanner in the works. Eventually, I hurtled up the M6 and arrived hot, bothered and definitely not on time. Yet as soon as I pulled up the beautifully planted driveway and crossed the threshold of Moor Hall’s elegant Grade II-listed building, the team scooped me up. Settled into a cool corner of the wood-panelled bar, a beautifully crafted wooden drinks trolley promptly glided over, and a seasonal spritz was expertly mixed. Each ingredient – Moor Hall’s own gin, Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs, bitters and a sweet cicely and apricot syrup made from the garden – was introduced in turn. Looking out through leaded windows across the flower-filled gardens, I took my first delicious sip and all tyres, flat or otherwise, seemed a distant memory. Tucked away in the West Lancashire countryside, not far from Liverpool, Moor Hall has turned the traditional dinner, bed and breakfast format on its head. Guests are invited to arrive in time (ahem) for a leisurely lunch, followed by an afternoon and evening to enjoy the beautiful gardens, a light supper served in their room later and breakfast the following morning. It's a simple tweak, but one that transforms the whole experience. Chef patron Mark Birchall is at the helm. Born in Lancashire, he has a deep connection to the area and works with local producers, farmers and artisans to create menus inspired by the land and the produce grown in Moor Hall’s own gardens. Since opening in 2017, the restaurant has gone from strength to strength, collecting almost every major accolade along the way. Today, few in the country are more highly awarded. It is one of just ten in the UK to hold the coveted three Michelin stars, and one of only four outside London. It also holds Michelin's Green Star for sustainability and five AA Rosettes.
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‘A bountiful display of ingredients was laid out like a still life, all components of that day’s menu. There were huge crab claws, hunks of meat, jewel-like strawberries, honey and herbs, and nestled amongst it all were our final two snacks…’ After sampling just a few of the ‘snacks’ that kick off lunch, it's easy to see why the restaurant is quite so celebrated. Prepared on a small counter beside the bar, perfectly framed by leafy plants, a tweezer-armed chef carefully assembled each morsel. Slices of cured, gently spiced chalk stream trout melted in the mouth; a fluffy muffin was topped with sweet, buttery lobster and lemon verbena; and a caviar tin arrived filled with rich, silky cod's roe, decadently topped with N25 aged Kaluga caviar and chervil from the garden. Each one was a work of art and an utter pleasure to eat. Front of house honcho Neil suggested a tour of the garden before our lunch continued in the dining room, which seemed an excellent idea. He led us through rows of herbs, vegetables, fruit and flowers; all immaculately kept, yet still wild and incredibly beautiful. At the centre
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of the garden, beneath a handsome mulberry tree, a chef awaited beside a smoking Big Green Egg. Completely taken by surprise, I watched as he created our next snack: freshly picked Alderman peas nestled in crisp green croustades, topped with calamint and purple cornflower. The explosion of sweet, fresh, verdant flavour was exquisite, and what a delight it was to eat it in the heart of the garden where it had been grown. Neil led us back inside and into the busy kitchen, where we were greeted by 18 smiling chefs, who called out a robust "welcome" in impressive unison. We moved from section to section before stopping at the main pass, where head chef George Martin talked us through a bountiful display of ingredients laid out like a still life, all components of that day's menu. There were huge crab claws, hunks of meat, jewel-like strawberries, honey, herbs
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and more, and nestled amongst it all were our final two snacks: crisp bird's nest-like cups of smoked eel, potato and fermented garlic, topped with colourful petals. We took a seat in the dining room, where interiors cleverly blend old and new. The ornate dark wood of the original house flows seamlessly into this more modern, minimalist space, which is flooded with natural light from lofty vaulted ceilings and walls of glass, while pendant lights float like elegant soap bubbles overhead. Without exception, the next twelve or so courses were exquisite; painstakingly precise and extraordinarily delicious, each one presented with warmth and enthusiasm. Despite its many accolades, there is not a hint of pretension. Our waiter, Joe, was fun, friendly and seemingly just as excited about the menu and the skill behind it as we were. Highlights included a plump Louet-Feisser oyster, swimming in buttermilk, poached and finished on the barbecue, then theatrically plated at the table amongst ribbons of raw white beetroot and crunchy grain. Sweet Paris Market carrots from the garden arrived sprouting with fresh herbs, dressed in sea buckthorn, a ramson caper pesto and a light cloud of Doddington cheese.
crab, a masterclass in texture combining pristine, sweet crab meat with a deep, smoky turnip broth. A stunningly sweet lobster and warm tomato salad with fermented green tomato offered more delicious garden freshness combined with a slow-cooked ragu-style depth of flavour, while a perfect slice of turbot melted in the mouth, topped with caviar, and generously doused in silky brown butter, its richness cut through by pickled dashi pear, asparagus, mussel mousse and silky mussel sauce studded with caviar and pike roe. Head sommelier Bence Kárpátfalvi curated one of the most enjoyable wine pairings I've ever had the pleasure of, from a one-of-a-kind Sicilian Zibibbo to an extraordinary, almost treacle-like 1974 Pedro Ximénez and a unique Austrian late-harvest rosé dessert wine. After a quick sniff around the wonderfully fragrant cheese room, we returned to the table for dessert. First up, the signature ‘Ormskirk gingerbread’ – Birchall’s ode to the historic trade of local Ormskirk gingerbread sellers that brings together smooth gingerbread ice cream, the fire of ginger root and the freshness of pine. Sweet strawberries with soft sponge and frozen sweet cicely provided the ultimate
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Manager Adam suggested a golf buggy “just for fun”. I leapt in and off we went. Less than a minute later we pulled up outside Ainise Hysopp, a sleek, contemporary cabin clad in sustainable dark timber, which seemed totally at home in its natural surroundings. Inside, a supremely tranquil space of muted colour and wonderful tactility thanks to a mixture of natural materials, sumptuous velvets and dried flowers. Floor-toceiling windows overlook the gardens, while Pelegrims products, a flickering fireplace and a private terrace with hot tub complete the deeply luxurious experience. What a thrill it was to have the whole evening ahead of me to simply relax and enjoy this beautiful space. At dusk, I wandered the gardens almost entirely alone. Old red-brick walls meet sleek glass kitchen windows, winding paths weave through beautifully planted borders, and everything feels peaceful and purposeful. On one side of the lake sits The Barn – Birchall’s one Michelin-starred restaurant, and across the way is Moor Hall itself. It’s a sort of gastronomic hamlet, if you like. Back in my ever so serene cabin, a light supper had been perfectly arranged; two feather light choux buns
IMAGES © SOPHIE FARRAH’S OWN, MOOR HALL / MARK BRISTOL
seasonal satisfaction, followed by a medley of plump blackberries, sake, woodruff mousse and almond crumble. With the sun shining, Joe intuitively suggested that we might like to continue dessert in the garden. Back under the mulberry tree, I settled into a sheepskin-clad chair and watched as he theatrically drizzled Moor Hall honey over yoghurt sorbet, with berry jelly, crunchy praline and smooth pumpkin seed butter. Bence then brought out a tray brimming with a Willy Wonka-esque selection of petit fours, quite unlike anything I have ever seen before. There were sticks of woodruff fudge wrapped like sweets; caramel and whisky truffles; multicoloured yuzu, white chocolate and blood orange chocolates; colourful spirals of grape and elderflower pâte de fruits, and strawberry macarons in an eye-popping shade of pink. It was an unforgettable finale. I sat amongst the swaying flowers and digested – both figuratively and literally – the extraordinary meal I’d just had. I could have left Moor Hall then and there and been extremely happy, but there are 14 bedrooms, including seven garden rooms tucked away in the grounds, one of which I was staying in. Despite the short distance, General
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click here Beach to see Antony Gormley's dramatic statues, then
filled with smoked asparagus and ricotta, a slice of silky brown sugar tart with raspberries and citrus cream, and the cheese that I wasn’t able to finish at lunch. Having thought I would never need to eat again, I suddenly found myself tucking in once more before rolling into the astonishingly comfortable bed. Breakfast the next day was served in The Barn, another impressive, architecturally designed space with vaulted ceilings, brick walls, and windows overlooking the lake. There is no menu, instead a stream of dishes appeared; house-cultured yoghurt with compote and organic granola, followed by warm pastries, an array of homemade jams (including a devilish chocolate and sunflower seed spread) and then a masterful eggs Florentine, with mushroom duxelles and crispy strands of potato, all balanced on a pillowy crumpet. Another lap of the garden later and it was time to check out, but for once it didn’t feel premature. I did, however, feel a sense of sadness saying goodbye to the team – that’s just how terrific they are. At reception, Julie pressed a box into my hand; “for the road” she said. Before heading home, I made the short drive to Crosby
explored Formby, famous for its dramatic sand dunes, sweeping sea views and rare red squirrels. I didn't spot one of the elusive creatures, but it didn't matter – I was still on a high after what I declared to my husband was one of the very best meals of my life. However you plan your visit, I can't imagine any experience at Moor Hall being anything short of exquisite. But the simple swap of dinner for lunch completely changes the pace of an overnight stay, and I don't think I could have enjoyed it more. An hour or so into the journey home, I opened the box Julie had given me. Two golden white chocolate and strawberry cruffins stared back at me. One bite instantly transported me back beneath the shade of that mulberry tree. Few restaurants leave quite such a lasting impression, and Moor Hall is most definitely one of them. Moor Hall’s lunch, bed and breakfast package starts from £590, including bed, breakfast and a provenance menu for lunch, alongside a light in-room supper. It’s available Friday to Sunday, year-round. Rooms (bed & breakfast) from £275 per night, lunch from £155 per person; moorhall.com
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LUXURY RETREATS IN THE UK’S DREAMIEST LOCATIONS
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WHERE HISTORY MEETS
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As the Jurassic Coast celebrates 25 years as England’s first and only natural UNESCO World Heritage Site, there has never been a better moment to walk among dinosaurs at the foot of England.
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Text by Victoria Gill
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here are easier ways to spend a holiday at the beach than trudging shingle in winter, head bowed against seawinds, hunting for remnants of creatures unseen for two hundred million years. But then, everything about this behemothic shoreline spanning from East Devon to West Dorset is extraordinary. Starring among Britain’s best natural wonders, Durdle Door is preternaturally beautiful: a symphony of spheres and arcs shouldered by a cacophony of cave-pockmarked cliffs, surrounded by curling coastline. On descending, the easterly beaches meet like a heart; the Isle of Portland on the horizon appears to encircle the bay - dramatically juxtaposed by the megalithic dragon’s head limestone arch, undulating grasstopped white cliffs and crystalline topaz waters. I leave the thousands of international day-trippers who’ve made the pilgrimage to the world’s most famous marine arch (which transformed into the planet Erid for Project Hail Mary see, we told you it was otherworldly) for the mile-long ascent to Lulworth Cove. Hiking the South West (and now King Charles III England) Coast Path, cliffs and hills swoop down to glorious sea clefts, fluttered by rare butterflies and birds surveying the spherical shoal beach, perhaps the most pristine amid the Jurassic Coast’s 96-mile-long series of coves and bays. This stretch is a microcosm of England’s oldest seaside. West Lulworth’s model village appeal of cob-and-thatched cottages is today enhanced by artisanal food sellers and one
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of Dorset’s dozen or so sea-to-sauna experiences, adding to the sense that this is both living and geological theatre. On weekends and holidays, explorers can visit the neighbouring fossil forest when not exposed to the military range it shoulders. There is a small museum, one of the “String of Pearls” cultural centres, detailing the local terrain and palaeontology that’s attracted enthusiasts for three hundred years. This, of course, climaxed with the Jurassic Coast – on December 13th 2001– crowned Britain’s first and today England’s only natural UNESCO World Heritage Site for the importance of its fossil finds and geological features charting 185 million years of history. It stands among the most important palaeontology sites of the world. “When UNESCO came to assess the region, Foot and Mouth disease had broken out so they couldn’t go onto much of the land,” explains Dr Steve Etches MBE, whose findings – including 17 previously undiscovered species, a complete pliosaur and an ichthyosaur - are showcased in Britain’s largest dedicated fossil museum, The Etches Collection. “So, UNESCO came to my house to see the collection that’s today displayed here at Kimmeridge. It was stored in a double garage back then. They visited twice, and we then won the bid.” Standing in front of Big Sara, the allosaurus on loan from Wyoming, he explains, “The geology you see in these cliffs, all the way from Devon to the Old Harry Rocks, is the whole suite of rocks changing.”
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Having descended down onto the beach that fired Etches’ fascination with fossils, I find myself gazing at a bucketful of preternaturally perfect ammonite spheres and reflect that, in hindsight, maybe it was lucky that I didn’t know about the rockfall at Kimmeridge. I had sifted the bounty of ridged faces seared into stones upon stepping onto the pebble beach, then followed the setting sun and fellow fossil hunters along the giant’s fingers beckoned and shoved by the oily tide. It had been my first and last chance to fossil hunt here as, when I edged back towards the Cretaceous cliffs, I realised that their snarling faces were spitting rocks. Today you can collect ammonites and belemnites after the golden sand beaches of Studland Bay morph to shingle. East of Kimmeridge, Dancing Ledge is reliable for finds and best visited following a pint and pasty at The Square and Compass, which sits on a hill surrounded by the beguiling Anglo-Saxon villages woven through West Dorset with a dusky, musty corridor fossil museum and views across arable fields to the Channel.
Weymouth, close to where we stay at Chalklands, a luxury five-bedroom hideaway idyllically nestled in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, is the nucleus of the Jurassic Coast. It is also home to peerless seafood gastronomy. The sea-to-plate experience ranges from freshly shucked at the Crab House Café to casual catches at Billy Winters and fine dining at Catch. The fossils-and-food scene here is one of Britain’s most unique tourism concepts. Catch at the Old Fish Market comes modestly described as “The Best Restaurant in the World” by fawning food critics. Intimate and sophisticated with harbour views, it is a paean to the region’s edible riches. Silky Portland crab parfait melts in the mouth, oysters taste of the ocean and fleshy tendrils of skate star in the tasting odyssey. Popular among serious foodies, it is currently vying for its first Michelin Star (or maybe make that three). At Dorset’s southernmost point stands the Isle of Portland – a hive of stonemasonry for the smooth, cream-coloured Jurassic limestone that built Buckingham Palace and St
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countryside entertain like a kaleidoscope from the master suite’s panoramic balcony. Downstairs, the double-sided wood burner and terrace overlook rolling cornfields, inviting quiet evenings by the fire pit, sharing stories under the Dorset stars. The privacy at this Boutique Retreats property is profound; nestled amid the undulations of the countryside, I felt as though we had stumbled upon a secret corner of the world where neighbours and walking routes simply do not exist. The serenity is punctured the next day by the buzz of Hive Beach Café, where head chef Shane Punshon works his magic with fresh Lyme Bay lobster, and the chatter of diners provides the soundtrack to the dangerously beautiful sandstone cliffs, textbook fish and chips, house botanicals and sea air. I continue west by Jurassic Coaster – scenic buses that should figure on any sightseeing itinerary here – to explore the final, and perhaps most important, stretch. Charmouth is ground zero for fossil hunters. Its Black Ven produces the greatest number of finds in summer, and Golden Cap – Dorset’s highest point - in winter. I explore the shoreline with a fossil hunter who immediately finds an ammonite in the sand and explains, “If you learn to colour code the stones it’s the easiest trick in the world!” When combing the Triassic coast, I examine flat grey and black stones (while dismissing the white ones). Near the border of where Dorset becomes Devon, I arrive in Lyme Regis expecting a faded seaside resort fossilised by
IMAGES © ADOBESTOCK/VALERY EGOROV/MARK GODDEN, CATCH RESTAURANT © ANDY REDGATE, CHALKLANDS © M J HERITAGE
Paul’s. The island plateau is a relic of England, suspended in time, showcasing 600 years of history – from Henry VIII’s Portland Castle to Nothe Fort and the abandoned masonry site-turned-sculpture park, Tout Quarry. In 2028 MEMO will unveil an immersive exploration of the subterranean Bowers’ mines following a multimillion-pound investment. On departing, I mount the pebble tombolo of 18-milelong Chesil Beach, first glimpsed from our terrace at Chalklands. Its figure-of-eight is flanked by the Isle and Wyke Regis, blue seas and Fleet Lagoon. Dorset, however, is not a destination to explore exclusively from the coast. At Parnham Park, the bewitching occasion restaurant is set around the greenhouse of the Elizabethan-styled stately home gutted by fire and now occupied and being restored by renowned collector James Perkins. Advancing over the wooden bridge, it’s apparent that here it’s all about entrances – and the estate very much entrances – through the walk along the kitchen garden from which petals pepper punchy cocktails, wisteria flavours ice cream and the apiary industries sweeteners. Owner-led tours showcase how Perkins’ famed collection has grown – or pared back – from the taxidermy menagerie migrated from his former home of Aynhoe Park to the big game and dinosaur skeletons now dazzling Parnham’s lobby. Crossing Thomas Hardy country from Beaminster back to Chalkands, the sea mist-drenched hills of the rolling pastoral
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‘Crossing Thomas Hardy country from Beaminster back to Chalkands, the click here sea mist-drenched hills of the rolling pastoral countryside entertain like a kaleidoscope from the master suite’s panoramic balcony.’
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nostalgia and haunted by Mary Anning. Instead, I alight in a bustling town brimming with cerebral sightseers. The legacy of the first British palaeontologist pervades. Past molluscshaped lampposts and her statue presiding over the harbour, I venture onto Monmouth Beach’s ammonite pavement where supersized fossils are seared into the shoal. I was about to leave Lyme Regis, resigned but satisfied at not finding any prehistoric souvenirs amid the crowds raking East Cliff Beach’s pebble shore. Then I look down, see the edifying, almost incomprehensible imprint, caress its
smooth, ancient, charcoal contours and yell, “I found one! I
found one!” Suddenly, I am surrounded. The leader of a fossil BUY IN PRINT tour summons his party to examine my ammonite and grins:
click here “Well, Mary Anning, eat your heart out!” That is the magic of the Jurassic Coast. You arrive seeking fossils and scenic beauty. You leave holding the past.
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Sleeping up to nine and dog-friendly, sumptuous Chalklands is ideal for groups, whether with family or friends. Prices from £1,555 for a long weekend or mid-week break; boutique-retreats.co.uk
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BritishTravelJournal.com 39
1
SIGHTSEEING IN CAMBRIDGE
The Gonville Hotel Cambridge may be best known for its world-famous university, but there's far more to this historic city than its academic prowess. Independent boutiques, excellent restaurants, world-class museums and picturesque riverside walks make it a terrific city break destination, especially in the colder months. Overlooking Parker's Piece, The Gonville Hotel is perfectly placed for exploring on foot, with the Fitzwilliam Museum, King's College, the city's independent shops and the River Cam all within easy reach. Elegant, contemporary interiors provide a welcome contrast to the centuries of history outside, while complimentary bicycles invite guests to explore the city on two wheels. For sightseeing in unforgettable style, the hotel also offers private Bentley tours. Don't miss: The 45th Cambridge Film Festival (22 October–1 November 2026), or wrap up warm for a punt along the River Cam. Rooms start at £180, gonvillehotel.co.uk
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SEA & CITY IN BRIGHTON
Artist Residence Brighton Artist Residence has long been one of Brighton’s coolest places to stay. Set inside a lovely Regency townhouse just moments from the beach, the 27-room boutique hotel has a creative, bohemian spirit dating back to its early days, when local artists were invited to decorate rooms in exchange for board. Today, its individually designed bedrooms pair sea views with eccentric artwork, bold murals, vintage furniture and playful touches, creating a relaxed, rock-and-roll feel that's unmistakably Brighton. And the location couldn't be better. The iconic Palace Pier, the independent boutiques of The Lanes, beachfront cafés and some of the city's best restaurants are all just a short stroll away. And when you need to blow away the cobwebs, there's nothing quite like a blustery winter walk along the beach before returning to the warmth of Blake's – the hotel's intimate late-night bar and bistro – for a well-earned cocktail. Don't miss: Every 21 December, Brighton's much-loved Burning the Clocks parade, created in 1993 as an alternative to the commercialism of Christmas, sees handmade lanterns, music and fire weave through the city before a spectacular beach bonfire and fireworks. Rooms start at £220, artistresidence.co.uk
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heart OF IT
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The best city breaks begin ② with the perfect location – BUY IN PRINT right in the centre of town. click here British Travel Journal picks ten perfectly placed hotels where the very best of each③ destination is just a short DIGITALLY SUBSCRIBE stroll away. click here Text by Sophie Farrah
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A UNIQUE SUITE IN OXFORD
The Netty Sleeping in a former toilet might not sound like the obvious choice for a luxury city break, but The Netty is anything but ordinary. Once a Victorian public convenience, this unique subterranean space is now a pair of beautifully designed suites tucked beneath the streets of Oxford. Ingeniously reimagined, this hip hideaway blends original architectural features with bespoke furnishings and colourful contemporary comforts, while natural light filters through the original pavement glass above. Tucked away in the city centre, it's just a short stroll from the Bodleian Library, Radcliffe Camera, Ashmolean Museum and the many historic colleges, making it one of the city's best-located – and certainly most memorable – places to stay. Don't miss: Oxford's famous colleges are at their most peaceful once the summer crowds have gone. Wander the historic quads, browse the Bodleian Library and Ashmolean Museum, then climb the tower at the University Church of St Mary the Virgin for one of the city's finest views, where the dreaming spires look especially beautiful on frosty winter mornings. Suites start at £110 per night, thenetty.co.uk
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SHOPPING & SOAKING IN BATH
The Gainsborough Bath Spa As the days grow shorter, few cities are more enchanting than Bath. Honey-coloured Georgian streets glow in the autumn sunshine, while winter brings festive lights, cosy cafés and every excuse to slip into the city's famous thermal waters. Right in the heart of the city, The Gainsborough Bath Spa is just a short walk from all the action. Occupying a handsome Grade II-listed building just moments from the world-famous Roman Baths, it's the only hotel in the UK with direct access to Bath's natural springs, and home to a stunning spa centred around its own thermal pools. Spend the day wandering elegant crescents, browsing independent boutiques and soaking up centuries of history before returning for a restorative dip in the mineral-rich waters that have attracted visitors for almost 2,000 years. Don't miss: Bath Christmas Market (27 November –14 December 2026) celebrates its 25th anniversary this year. Browse independent stalls before rounding off the evening with a drink in one of Bath's wonderfully cosy pubs. Rooms start at £233, thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk
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AFTER DARK IN YORK
No.1 York by GuestHouse Behind York's ancient walls lies one of Britain's best-preserved medieval cities, where timberframed buildings, cobbled lanes and centuries of history create an irresistible backdrop for an autumn or winter escape. Close to Bootham Bar, No.1 York by GuestHouse is in prime position for exploring on foot, with York Minster, The Shambles and the city's independent shops all just a short stroll away. Behind its handsome Grade II-listed townhouse façade, individually designed bedrooms blend playful touches with understated luxury, while serene spa treatments and high-ceilinged lounges provide a welcome retreat after a day spent exploring. Fuel up at the complimentary pantry, where guests can help themselves to freshly baked cakes, hot drinks and sweet treats throughout the day. Don't miss: As darkness falls, The Original Ghost Walk of York winds its way through the city's medieval streets, sharing centuries of grisly tales and local legends. Afterwards, soothe any lingering nerves with tea and cake at the legendary Bettys Café Tea Rooms, and enjoy the beautiful interiors inspired by the Queen Mary ocean liner. Rooms start at £170, guesthousehotels.co.uk
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CASTLE VIEWS IN EDINBURGH
Unlock content and read the full issue... 100 Princes Street Built across a series of ancient volcanic hills, Edinburgh is one of Britain's most dramatic cityscapes. Exploring its cobbled streets on foot is a joy at any time of year, but winter lends the Scottish capital an extra layer of atmosphere. Occupying one of the city's most prestigious addresses, 100 Princes Street enjoys spectacular views of Edinburgh Castle while placing the Royal Mile, Princes Street Gardens, the National Galleries and the city's renowned shopping and dining scene all within easy walking distance. Inside, Scottish heritage combines seamlessly with opulent interiors, with just 30 deeply luxurious rooms and suites and a very tempting rare whisky collection. Don't miss: Edinburgh's worldfamous Hogmanay celebrations are right on your doorstep, with a huge street party, live music and the spectacular torchlight procession creating a river of fire through the Old Town. At midnight, fireworks light up Edinburgh Castle as tens of thousands of revellers welcome in the new year. Few cities celebrate with quite the same sense of occasion. Rooms start at £415, 100princes-street.com
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HISTORIC HEIGHTS IN LINCOLN
The White Hart Hotel Steep Hill is worth the trip to Lincoln alone. Lined with independent boutiques, cafés and historic buildings, it climbs to Lincoln Cathedral, one of Europe’s great Gothic masterpieces. Just moments away, The White Hart Hotel sits right in the centre of the city’s medieval streets. Recently refurbished, its stylish bedrooms range from cosy doubles to spacious four-poster suites, while the historic rooms in neighbouring Leigh Pemberton House occupy what is arguably the most photographed building in Uphill Lincoln. Lincoln Castle and the Bailgate – once home to a Roman colonnade and now lined with independent boutiques, galleries and artisan makers – are moments away. Don't miss: Lincoln Cathedral and neighbouring Lincoln Castle are particularly atmospheric during winter. From late November, Lincoln Castle Illuminated transforms the historic fortress with enchanting light displays, festive treats and the rare chance to walk the medieval walls after dark. Time your visit for the magical snowfall finale, hop aboard the Christmas Express train and don't forget to say hello to the castle's resident dragons. Rooms start at £109, whitehart-lincoln.co.uk
Roseate House Few cities embrace the festive season quite like London. Endless twinkling lights, world-class Christmas shopping (or the January sales, for the brave), one of the world's greatest restaurant scenes and iconic landmarks make the capital especially enticing as winter draws in. Set across three elegant Grade II-listed Victorian townhouses near Paddington, the five-star Roseate House is perfectly placed for exploring. Its 48 individually designed rooms and suites blend original period features, including fireplaces and ornate detailing, with contemporary touches, while fourlegged guests are welcome too. Hyde Park is just moments away, while Kensington Gardens, Little Venice and world-class museums are all within easy reach, making this a peaceful retreat in the heart of the capital. Don't miss: Wrap up warm and explore London's famous Christmas lights, which magically illuminate the West End from Regent Street and Bond Street to Covent Garden, Carnaby Street and beyond. Afterwards, stroll across Hyde Park to the Royal Albert Hall for its acclaimed programme of seasonal concerts, traditional carol performances and festive shows. Rooms start at £400, roseatehotels.com
IMAGE: BLYTHSWOOD SQUARE LOBBY © DAMIAN RUSSELL
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FESTIVE FEELS IN LONDON
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ROMANCE IN GLASGOW
Kimpton Blythswood Square Combining world-class museums and galleries with excellent shopping, restaurants and a lively cultural scene, Glasgow makes a brilliant autumn or winter city break. Right in the heart of the action, Kimpton Blythswood Square occupies an elegant Georgian building overlooking its namesake garden square. For a seriously special stay, the two-bedroom Penthouse, redesigned for 2026, features bespoke tartan interiors and a private rooftop garden with sweeping views across the Glasgow skyline, all accessed via a private lift. The master bedroom has its own steam room and sunken tub, with thoughtful extras including fresh flowers and ishga bath salts. Downstairs, iasg showcases Scottish seafood, while the hotel’s complimentary daily drinks reception gets the evening off to a very good start. There’s also a soothing spa for a little post-sightseeing downtime. Don't miss: From 14–31 Jan 2027, the Celtic Connections festival fills concert halls, pubs, churches and unexpected venues across Glasgow with more than 300 concerts, ceilidhs and cultural events. One of the world's leading celebrations of Celtic music, it's a brilliant way to experience the city at its liveliest. Rooms start from £180 per night, kimptonblythswoodsquare.com
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COASTAL CHARACTER IN CORNWALL
The Bell Tower Penzance proves that not every winter city break needs Christmas markets and mulled wine. Here, sweeping sea views, a fantastic food scene, independent galleries, historic streets and Cornish traditions take centre stage. Occupying one of the town's most recognisable landmarks, The Bell Tower sits just off historic Chapel Street, with the harbour and promenade only moments away. Beautifully restored, the stylish apartment pairs carefully chosen mid-century furnishings with original architectural features, while breathtaking views stretch across the harbour towards St Michael’s Mount. Guests are greeted with a freshly prepared homemade Cornish cream tea, setting the tone for a restorative stay. Leave the car behind – everything from independent shops and galleries to cafés, restaurants and the seafront can be easily explored on foot. Don't miss: Swap bustling Christmas markets for Cornish folklore, sea air and the extraordinary Montol Festival (21 December), when lantern processions, masked dancers, music and fire revive ancient winter solstice traditions. A stay at The Bell Tower starts at £570 for 3 nights, middlecolensofarm.co.uk
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BritishTravelJournal.com 45
FROM PUBS TO
Pillowcases
BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL
With a handful of characterful pubs with rooms under its belt, the Beckford Group is stepping up with its first hotel – while also opening a restaurant with rooms. Jane Knight visits its new Wiltshire properties to see whether their winning formula translates.
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t’s less than a 15-minute drive from the Beckford Arms in Tisbury, through the Nadder Valley’s rolling farmland and wooded hills, to Teffont House, a newly opened hotel in the tiny Wiltshire village of Teffont Evias. Yet for the Beckford Group, that short journey has taken 17 years and represents quite a change of direction. When Dan Brod and Charlie Luxton opened the Beckford Arms in 2009, they wanted the sort of pub they themselves would use: good food and wine, stylish but informal surroundings, and somewhere comfortable to sleep that wouldn’t cost the earth. After Matt Greenlees joined them in 2013, the formula became the basis of a small collection of pubs with rooms across Wiltshire and Somerset. In the process, they helped redefine the modern British gastropub with rooms. Characterful and convivial rather than polished and precious, the Beckford pubs were all about atmosphere and affordability – even in these economically straightened times, rooms are generally well south of £150 a night. This summer, though, they went not one step but two steps further by opening their first hotel, Teffont House, as well as their first restaurant with rooms, Corsham House, both in Wiltshire. Has the group which said it never thought it would open a hotel changed its tune? “Well, inns were the first form of hotels,” points out Brod. “We earnt our spurs with pubs with rooms. Now we’re trying to apply what we’ve learnt to opening a hotel.”
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‘We’re talking at Teffont House... in the heart of Teffont Evias. It’s one of those impossibly pretty villages, with a charming, medieval church... and thatched cottages with rose-framed doorways. You half expect Miss Marple to appear around a corner.’ We’re talking at Teffont House, where I’ve just arrived after creeping along the single-track main road through the heart of Teffont Evias. It’s one of those impossibly pretty villages, with a charming, medieval church by the old manor house and a brook trickling along the road past thatched cottages with rose-framed doorways. You half expect Miss Marple to appear around a corner. Just beyond the church, a mass of cloud-pruned hedging snakes its way past the walled garden with climbing pears. Across the road sits Teffont House itself, a wisteria-clad stone dower house whose bones date back to the 17th century, but which gained Gothic windows and chalet-style eaves among substantial Victorian additions. Together with a coach house and a cottage, it comprises the 17-room hotel.
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Rather like a good village pub, it is stitched into the fabric of the village. “We call it a village hotel rather than a country house hotel with a big drive leading up to it,” says Brod. “The drive is the village street.” Villagers are encouraged to use the croquet court in the walled garden (there’s even a village croquet team now) over the road from the hotel, with its badminton court, Chicken Shed bar and deck chairs peppering the lawns. Over in the hotel, on a week-day evening the sitting room is already filling up with families playing board games on squashy sofas and stripey seats by the fireplace, while beyond a wood-beamed partition, groups of friends are having a drink or two in the bar. Snail Creep Hanging bitter and Wiltshire gin are among local tipples before people drift through to the
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appealing conservatory dining room, to sit on sagegreen banquettes or brown leather chairs around marble tables, or out onto the terrace. You can almost feel the bonhomie in the air. “We want the hotel to be known for the same things as the pubs – great food, great décor but mostly about the atmosphere from the staff and how we nurture them.
It’s like the hug you get when you go into the place,” says Brod. The philosophy is about offering true hospitality rather than service, along with a generosity of spirit, which may explain the trio of decanters with complimentary drinks in the sitting room and the Bloody Mary station at breakfast, all included in a remarkably reasonable £155 room rate. There’s more: at 5pm a gong sounds and sherry is served on the terrace, while in your room, there are individual decanters of vermouth for a nightcap and freshly made shortbread cookies. In the morning, fresh milk is left outside your bedroom so you can make your tea. “That’s thanks to my wife,” says Brod. “She can’t be without her morning tea.” It is Luxton’s wife, Chloe, who is responsible for the full-sized Bramley toiletries in the bathrooms, which also feature in the group’s pubs. Unimpressed by single-use bottles of synthetic formulas when she was looking for bathroom products for the Beckford Arms, she created them and the Bramley company herself.
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BritishTravelJournal.com 49
Luxton, meanwhile, is the mastermind behind the décor, working with interior designer Natasha Hidvegi. He spent about a decade at Soho House, which clearly influenced the stylish but unbuttoned feel that is essential to the ethos of all Beckford properties (Greenlees, who handles Beckford’s operations, also had a Soho House background, having run the group’s Babington House). The bedrooms are all lovely, whether in the main house, the coach house – where the family suite has a bunk room upstairs with its own television – or the cottage, with its low, beamed ceilings. Mine, main house room 3, comes with a twin aspect over the village, making the television in front of the green sofa feel somewhat redundant. Modernity is mixed with the smattering of antiques; I’m relieved to find conveniently placed chargers on either side of the superking bed (all rooms have either super-kings or king sizes; there are no twins). It’s the sort of place you want to linger – although not too long as dinner awaits downstairs.
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The homemade treacle bread is so good I make them take the generous plate away before I eat it all. There are sardines, monkfish with a generous portion of crinkly heritage carrots, then cheese with heavenly homemade digestives that follow it (“They’re my favourite,” says the cheerful waitress). Afterwards, I heave myself into the garden and up the slope to the summer house equipped with telescopes.
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‘I heave myself into the garden and up the slope to the summer house equipped with telescopes. This is ③ Cranbourne Chase dark-sky area and the stars are burning brightly tonight.’ SUBSCRIBE DIGITALLY click here refused, it was eventually overturned when the villagers
This is Cranbourne Chase dark-sky area and the stars are burning brightly tonight. By day, there’s another summer house filled with art supplies should the creative urge strike, or a Bramley treatment hut plus a glass-fronted sauna and cold plunge pool should it not. There’s even a boules court for a bit of competitive action. It’s easy to see what Brod means when he says: “The idea was that it was like staying in your great aunt’s house”. Getting to this point, however, was anything but straightforward. First came the long struggle for planning permission to convert what had been Howard’s House hotel into Teffont House, adding the conservatory. “It was as complicated as planning can get,” says Brod. Initially
got behind the project. Then, three days before opening, they discovered that the new induction kitchen would put such a strain on the already dodgy electricity supply that they risked being left without power altogether. Hence the generator, incongruously parked behind a pile of hay bales in the field behind the hotel. There were problems at Corsham House, too, the restaurant with rooms in the eponymous town an hour’s drive away. Brod decided to hang its sign himself, climbing onto the top step of the stepladder (the one he now knows is for the paint pot), then falling on the pavement with a splat, two broken vertebrae and a shattered wrist.
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‘I set off for Corsham where I promptly forget all about checking out the sign... I’m distracted instead by the peacocks which stroll streets lined with independent shops – I catch one pilfering the plant pots outside Twigs and Willow flower shop.’ I make a mental note to check out the sign when I stay in Corsham House the next night. First, though, there’s lunch to be had en route at the Bradly Hare in Maiden Bradley, just over half an hour away, which joined the group in February as its sixth pub with rooms. I’ve visited this handsome Victorian building with its distinctly Georgian air under its previous ownership, after it received a swish makeover from the ex-European design director for Soho House. Even then, it was special, with a dozen rooms including one with a romantic cabin-style bed and modern freestanding bath. Unsurprisingly, Beckford has left much of the décor alone. The flagstones and floorboards remain, along with walls in Farrow & Ball colours and armchairs beside a wood burner. The food and the atmosphere, though,
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have definitely changed – for the better. The relaxed dining room is packed with people eating lunch, as is the garden, where I settle down to delicious board-bean hummus followed by Portland crab with watercress and lemon mayonnaise. I keep it light so I have room for my later dinner at Corsham House. There isn’t much time to walk lunch off afterwards, either, although Stourhead, one of England’s greatest landscaped gardens, is just four miles away. Alternatively, you could walk from the Bradley Hare across the fields to another Beckford pub, the Bath Arms, in about 45 minutes. I set off for Corsham instead, an hour’s drive away, where I promptly forget all about checking out the sign. I’m distracted instead by the peacocks which stroll streets lined
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with independent shops – I catch one pilfering the plant pots outside Twigs and Willow flower shop. They come from Corsham Court, with its art treasures and landscaped grounds, and have become the town’s unofficial mascot, their likeness appearing everywhere from in the window of the local estate agents to the ornaments in Theodora’s Home Decoration.
As I pull into Corsham House’s car park, there’s even a peacock with four pea hens strolling nonchalantly along outside. The building was previously a branch of Lloyds Bank, occupying a handsome Grade II-listed Georgian building. Beckford has turned the ground floor into a wine shop and brasserie, with 11 cosy rooms upstairs. Cosy is certainly the word. The rooms are divided into small, medium and large, but my large one, once the bank manager’s office, is still decidedly snug. It is beautifully done, though, with a velvet headboard and two large armchairs in the bay window from which to watch people plying the high street, as well as full-sized Bramley toiletries in the shower room. It feels more hotel than pub but nevertheless has hooks on the walls rather than a wardrobe. You come here for the food and it doesn’t disappoint. I tuck into a deliciously fresh beetroot, ewe’s curd and cherry radish starter in the old bank hall with its brass fittings, red leather banquettes and striking geometric tin ceiling.
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While there isn’t a huge amount on the main menu for a pescatarian, the chef adapts his haddock dish with a Chinese-style glaze on a bed of veg, substituting crab for the charcuterie. The chalk stream trout royale I have the next day for breakfast is also memorable. Corsham House feels like a natural extension of Beckford’s other interests – the Bottle Shop in Bath and the Beckford Canteen restaurant – but with a place to sleep upstairs. It has been quite a year for the Beckford Group, but it isn’t over yet. A seventh pub with rooms is due to open in Bath at the end of the year, and having cut its teeth on its first hotel, the group is already looking for another. “We think we would like another hotel but don’t want to go very far. I would love to do something by the sea for the fish and the seafood and we did look near Durdle Door,” says Brod. “We don’t want to be a chain though. We want each site to be individual and to stay actively involved.” Judging by the bruises, broken bones and shattered wrist acquired along the way, he certainly means it when he says they like to be actively involved. Here’s hoping, though, that the next opening involves rather less DIY.
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Overnight stay at Teffont House, from £155 including breakfast, teffonthouse.com; Bradley Hare Inn, is from £130 including breakfast, bradleyhare.com; and Corsham House is from £100 per night, corshamhouse.com
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BritishTravelJournal.com 57
ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME
Hadrian's Wall EXPERIENCE
Spanning over 80 miles from coast to coast, the Hadrian’s Wall Path offers a rare journey through Northern England’s most soul-stirring landscapes. This is slow, mindful travel refined – rugged, ancient trails by day, and historic luxury castles and country manors by night. Text and images by Jessica Way
O
ur first national trail adventure, Hadrian's Wall, began at Warwick Hall, a stunning, neo-Georgian country house B&B nestled within a 260-acre estate directly on the banks of the River Eden. With sweeping views over the water and surrounding parkland, it made for the perfect, tranquil setting to contemplate the 84-mile trail we had set out to complete. Shortly after settling in, we were greeted by Carolyn, our host from the wonderful team of logistics wizards at the Carter Company who had meticulously planned our trip. Our entire 8-day Hadrian’s Wall adventure, including transfers, handpicked hotels, meals and more, had been personally arranged, designed and tailored – beautifully and exclusively, just for us. A couple of weeks ahead of
our trip, we were sent an inspirational Adventure Handbook along with a recommended packing list – and instructions for downloading the invaluable ‘Ride with GPS’ app for our mobile phone. When we met in person, Carolyn had yet more goodies to share with us, including a beautifully binded day-to-day itinerary, National Trail Hadrian’s Wall Path handbook with OS maps, pre-prepared luggage labels for our bags, a waterproof mobile phone holder, a super-duper power bank with every combination of charger connection possible, and, to fuel my utter ‘inner-child’ excitement, a Hadrian’s Wall Path Passport with seven stamps to collect at various points along the route. We were heading west to east – by choosing this way, Carolyn explained, we’d benefit from having the prevailing wind at our backs and the
HADRIAN'S WALL PATH & EXQUISITE STAYS
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LANGLEY CASTLE MATFEN HALL
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River Eden
Chollerford
Heddon on the Wall
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Gilsland
Bowness on Solway
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England BOWNESS ON SOLWAY TO WALLSEND 84 MILES BritishTravelJournal.com 59
sun ahead, creating a significantly smoother, more comfortable rhythm to our days. Some people prefer to walk the other way, following the direction in which the frontier was built by the order of the Emperor Hadrian, following his visit to Britain in AD 122 – meaning whichever way you choose to travel, you are guaranteed to cross paths with fellow adventurers. The Wall, with its defensive ditches and large forts, stretched from coast to coast, a distance of 80 Roman miles (approximately 120 kilometres or 75 miles), forming the northernmost frontier of the Roman Empire. Today, as a UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site, it serves as a spectacular trail that traces the best remaining sections of the wall, alongside a wealth of museums and attractions along the route. Carolyn kindly managed our expectations for our opening miles – rather than seeing the standing stones, look out for the wildlife, expansive coastal skies, peaceful estuaries, she explained – a perfect combination for mastering the art of slow travel. In addition to walking the trail, our itinerary featured a collection of country houses so grand they’d have made a Roman centurion trade his standardissue wool tunic for a silk robe. With a stately line-up including Matfen Hall, Seaham Hall, Farlam Hall, and the imposing Langley Castle, there was no 'roughing it' – instead, every evening was an opportunity to nurse our aching muscles with fine wine and turret-side bliss. Our first night at Warwick Hall set the bar exceptionally high. Our peaceful bedroom, 'The New Room,' was designed by Alex Polizzi during filming for The Hotel Inspector. Gazing out at the gorgeous river views, we lit the open fire, snuggled into bed, and drifted off to sleep to the soothing sound of crackling logs and the warm glow of the hearth.
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DAY ONE Bowness on Solway to Carlisle Fuelled by a hearty Cumbrian breakfast of local sausages and free-range eggs, we arrived in Bowness-on-Solway, built on top of the buried ruins of Roman Fort Maia. Marked by a modest wooden pavilion overlooking the sweeping coastal salt marshes on the edge of the expansive Solway Firth estuary is the ‘official’ start (or end) of Hadrian's Wall Path. Inside the quiet shelter there's a beautifully detailed mosaic floor, grounding walkers in the history of the Roman frontier before they take their very first steps eastward. At the pavilion, we collected our first passport stamp and enjoyed a serendipitous moment taking photos for a couple of ladies who had just completed the path, with them returning the favour and the irony that their journey was ending as ours was beginning. The first few miles trace the edge of the estuary, an area of outstanding natural beauty – and where spotting oystercatchers, curlews, and lapwings more than made up for the lack of Roman remains. After passing through the tiny, quiet village of Port Carlisle, the trail veers away from the coastline through Glasson, where we stumbled upon our first honesty box – the delightful Croft House Cakes and Cookies. We bought some homemade cakes for the journey before pausing a few doors down at the peaceful Solway Chapel – an 1861 sanctuary that opens its doors daily to weary wall-walkers, offering a quiet space to sit, an opportunity to make a hot drink, and a chance to escape the elements. We stopped for lunch on a picnic bench on a grassy ridge overlooking the vast salt marshes of the Solway Firth in the historic village of Drumburgh. Because it is so flat and open, this section can be quite exposed, so we were pleased to have our fleece and waterproofs at the ready. Looking over the estuary, with distant Scottish hills in view, we tucked into thickcut sandwiches with Cumbrian ham, a Scotch egg, and freshly baked chocolate brownies, as wandering cows and sheep sauntered on by. Before long, the path led us past Drumburgh Castle, a fortified 1307 ‘pele tower’ built inside a former Roman fort to protect against Scottish border raiders. Strikingly constructed from red sandstone blocks stripped directly from the Roman wall, this historic ‘house of strength’ still has pieces of an ancient Roman shrine embedded in its stonework. The westernmost section of Hadrian’s Wall was
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originally built from turf and timber rather than stone. While the Romans later rebuilt parts of this stretch in stone, those materials have long since been ‘robbed out’ by locals over the centuries for building nearby farmhouses, churches, and castles. However, the Solway Plain still contains some rare examples of vernacular architecture – built entirely from local materials and traditional knowledge without the hand of an architect. One of the most eye-catching is Hewitt Cottage in the neighbouring village of Burghby-Sands (pronounced 'Bruff-by-Sands') – dating back to the early 20th century, the house proudly features a giant, ornate sundial above the front door. Another mile or so walking and we took another well-earned break in the sunny beer garden of the Greyhound Inn. Over a refreshing pint of local Loweswater Gold, we enjoyed chatting to a friendly walking group who had travelled from Norway. Before the temptation for another pint could take hold, we continued on the trail, stopping to glance at the bronze statue of King Edward I (Longshanks) next to the pub. We also stopped to look inside the beautiful 12th-century St Michael’s Church, constructed largely from Roman stones. The route then wound through Kirkandrews-on-Eden, where we paused at St Andrew’s Church to admire its stained glass and impressive bell tower. Just beyond lay Beaumont (locally 'bee-mont'), meaning 'beautiful mount'. Its hilltop church, St Mary’s, is uniquely the only church sitting directly on the line of Hadrian’s Wall. Built atop a Norman motte and a Roman milecastle using recycled wall stones, its interior hides a medieval 'leper's squint' window and a rare 15th-century 'Harp Stone' grave slab. We joined the banks of the River Eden, which guided us through peaceful woodland and parks into the historic heart of Carlisle. DAY TWO Carlisle to Walton For breakfast I savoured a delicious portion of American-style fluffy pancakes, drizzled with sweet maple syrup and a vibrant fruit coulis. Before checking out, we made sure to buy a jar of Warwick Hall honey – a sweet souvenir produced by the estate's very own bees. As we waited for our packed lunches, we laced up our boots – feeling notably more confident following the success of yesterday's miles. If we'd had a little more time, we would have loved to explore the walled kitchen gardens, beehives, and beautiful grounds.
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Back in Carlisle, we popped into the Sands Centre for our second passport stamp and extra snacks for the road. Leaving the city, we crossed the River Eden via Memorial Bridge. Erected in 1922, it stands as a moving tribute to the fallen of the First World War and leads directly into Rickerby Park where Sir Robert Lorimer’s commanding 12-metre-high granite cenotaph dominates the landscape, honouring the brave soldiers of Cumberland and Westmorland. The trail then follows a beautifully relaxing section alongside the riverbanks. Because the Roman Wall was predominantly built of dirt and turf along this western stretch, there is very little evidence of it remaining. Instead, we had to rely on our imaginations, picturing the colossal ancient fort that once stood nearby, housing the largest body of elite cavalry anywhere in the entire Roman Empire. As we meandered deeper into the rural countryside, the Swifts Nature Reserve was filled with the beautiful, busy chatter of swifts, swallows, and martins swooping overhead. Before long, we passed Linstock Dairy Farm – built directly into the ruins of a 13th-century castle once used by the Bishops of Carlisle as a refuge from Scottish raids. Pressing on through Low Crosby, we stopped at St John’s Church, an 1854 sanctuary where the midday sunshine flooded through unique stone windows featuring clear glass cut into the shapes of stars. The path then led us through Bleatarn, a former quarry where you can still see the track once used to carry the extracted stone for the wall. The famous trail camaraderie kept us fueled – first, we passed Old Wall Cottage, where we met the lovely owner and her dog, as she was restocking her walker'sfuelled coolbox – and proudly told us her house had been built using original stone from Hadrian's Wall. Next, the grass track and National Trail acorns led us past Hadrian's Wall Snack Shed and Caupona Takeaway Sandwich Bar in Newtown – a picture-perfect hamlet, and Cumbria in Bloom awardwinning village, that looks like a postcard. We pressed on and discovered a perfectly positioned bench in the shade of the woods at Sandysike. The air shifted, instantly cool and refreshing, inviting us to pause and listen to nature. If we had not stopped here, we would likely have walked on without hearing or noticing the Cam Beck waterfall, which was just in view. It was a wonderful moment, sitting in a secluded, hidden sanctuary – the perfect pocket of nature to breathe in the stillness.
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Our 11-mile journey came to an end in the hilltop village of Walton. Our first stop was St Mary's Church, dominated by a striking 118-foot tower. Though the building you see today was beautifully rebuilt in the late 19th century, the site itself holds deep historical roots, proudly housing an ancient font over a thousand years old and a 1,200-year-old Saxon cross. Tucked away behind the church, and to celebrate completing our second leg, we stopped in at the Old Vicarage microbrewery, housed in converted stables restored by Graham and Charlotte – who had fallen in love with this countryside after walking the Hadrian’s Wall path themselves. Having traded life in England to put down roots here, they now run the brewery alongside a welcoming B&B, offering a peaceful stop-off or stay for fellow walkers. Graham produces small-batch craft beers such as Old Vicarage Best and Milecastle 56 – we sampled a pint of ‘Katherine and Iain’s Garvald Gathering’, which he had brewed especially for his daughter’s recent wedding in Scotland. Charlotte was lovely, chatting away to us in their beer garden, alongside the chickens as the sun swept over the rolling hills. Our driver arrived, and not before a sneak peek of the brewery herself and a quick chat with the owners, whisked us away to Farlam Hall – our luxurious country house hotel for the next two nights. My legs were feeling very achy by the time we reached the Cedar Tree restaurant; navigating down the stairs to the dining room in heels was a delicate operation; however, there was no way my mudsplattered walking boots were an option! Dinner here is something else entirely, offering a level of creativity that defies the usual Michelinstarred fine-dining occasion – the attention to detail and thought behind every creation completely blew our minds. Portraits of Chef Patron Hrishikesh Desai justifiably adorn the walls. While we didn't meet him personally, our attentive ‘storyteller’ (yes, that’s their official title) guided us beautifully through the inspiration, local sourcing, and culinary concept of each course. It was also lovely to hear how proud and grateful he was to work under Hrishikesh's helm. And it took just one mouthful of our pre-dinner treats to understand why. The 'Olives our way' looked like traditional olives, but when you pop one into your mouth in one bite, a thin, delicate white chocolate shell snaps open. Instead of a solid olive, it immediately bursts into a completely liquid centre, introducing an entirely different flavour to one you might expect.
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Unlock content and read the full issue... Each taste of Farlam Hall’s eight-course menu is an entirely unique sensation for your palate, full of sensory illusions, making you glow with what feels like wellness infusions directly from the estate’s kitchen garden. The salt-aged pork belly and Cartmel Valley venison, paired with ‘Poolish’ milk bread, came with a delicious chilli-glazed butter – yet another playful deception made to look like chillies. By the time the North Sea halibut, Creedy Carver duck, and a sharp Calamansi sorbet had given way to the final pairing of British strawberries and lime leaf, I’d completely forgotten the blisters and aching legs.
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DAY THREE Walton to Gilsland After a flawless breakfast at the hotel, we were eager to get back on the trail. Walton’s Berry’s Tearoom was open, and we couldn’t resist popping in and stocking up on snacks for the road. As we left the village and wandered down the lane, a chance conversation with a friendly local made our morning. Not only did we have a surprising 'small world' connection, but as we walked together, he gestured toward what looked like an ordinary, grassy bank rising from the field, but that was in fact Dovecote Bridge, a carefully preserved section of Hadrian's Wall – which for around twenty years had been the only visible part of the wall built of Cumbrian red sandstone. Reburied and turfed over by English Heritage to protect the unique sandstone from eroding away – this is a hidden marvel we would have likely marched right past without a local’s keen eye. After meandering through rolling Cumbrian farmland and crossing the River Dove, we approached Haytongate, where the landscape began to uncover some historic secrets, including the romantic, red
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sandstone ruins of Lanercost Priory, and the adjacent vicarage’s Edward Tower – where an ageing and severely ill King Edward I (Hammer of the Scots) arrived in a horse litter. Returning to the path, we discovered The Haytongate Hut. Here, there was not only a kettle, snacks, socks, blister packs, and more, but also streams of notes and messages from walkers adorning the walls. It was fun reading the encouragements, advice, jokes, and Hadrian’s Wall song lyrics, which inspired us to leave a few words of our own and to also pin up a note for our daughters – who we hope will one day find it as they walk the trail together. This is also the place to come for Hadrian’s Wall souvenirs too – with a huge clothing shed, itrod, opposite the hut, selling branded t-shirts, hoodies, coffee mugs and more. We kept walking, and it wasn’t long before the earthen turf wall was giving way to solid stone – the Roman legacy was finally visible, and we arrived at Hare Hill – the tallest remaining stretch of Hadrian’s Wall, standing an impressive three metres high. From here, we crested the ridge towards Banks, where we explored Banks East Turret, the bestpreserved observation tower in the west, as well as Pike Hill Signal Tower, an exceptionally rare Roman lookout that signalled down to the Stanegate frontier road and pre-dates the wall. Standing there, seeing the magnificent, sweeping countryside views, it was easy to see why the Romans chose that exact high ground. After passing the twin sentinels of Piper Sike and Leahill Turrets – where small garrisons once huddled against the northern elements – the trail led us onto the majestic Birdoswald estate, framed by the longest remaining continuous stretch of the wall in England, and home to the Roman fort of Banna. We stopped for tea and scones at the site's café, where we also remembered to mark our third passport stamp. We crossed the River Irthing via the Millennium Footbridge – its striking, rust-toned metalwork purposefully designed using the exact same weathering steel as Antony Gormley’s famous Angel of the North. This brought us directly to the remains of the Willowford Roman Bridge, a phenomenal 914-metre stretch of wall and ancient abutments that once anchored the Roman crossing. Our 8-mile trek drew to a close in the border village of Gilsland, at the Samson Inn, a 17th-century coaching inn proudly bought and run by the local community, where Kathleen was waiting to whisk us back to the warmth and open log fires of Farlam Hall.
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DAY FOUR Gilsland to Once Brewed We knew today would be one of our most demanding legs, but the promise of dramatic crags and exceptionally well-preserved wall structures had us raring to go. As we started our walk back in Gilsland, it wasn't long before athletes started running past. We began applauding them and were told by local villagers that they were the frontrunners among over 2,000 participants in the Rat Race – an ultramarathon spanning 70 continuous miles! These professional athletes had started in Carlisle just a few hours before and were running at quite a speed. We joked that we wouldn't be walking alone today, noting the irony of the distance that had taken us multiple days being covered by them in a single, relentless push. The miles already in our legs certainly put the sheer scale of their challenge into perspective. As we continued, the landscape began to feel wilder and more rugged. Before long, we reached the banks of the River Tipalt near the village of Greenhead, where the stark, crumbling silhouette of Thirlwall Castle still stands. Built in the 12th century, its name literally means ‘hole in the wall’ – an apt title for when life in Northumberland was notoriously lawless, and the Thirlwall family survived the brutal border raids by building this defensive stronghold using stones heavily ransacked from Hadrian’s Wall. Leaving the ruins behind, we pushed on toward Walltown Crags, ascending the steep climb onto the dramatic volcanic waves of the Whin Sill. Caught between uphill breaths, we chatted to a lovely mother and son from the Netherlands – whose journey had very much mirrored ours throughout the week. We traced the path over the undulating crags, eventually dropping down into Great Chesters Fort – which, sitting a mere two miles from the nearest stronghold, completely lacks a natural freshwater supply. Standing among the ruins, we marvelled at the sheer scale of Roman engineering, knowing they had to build an aqueduct to channel water here from Caw Burn, over two miles away. Leaving the fort behind, we descended into Haltwhistle Burn Gorge, through a tranquil woodland. Climbing out of the gorge, we found ourselves tracing the path south of Cawfields Quarry. This was the perfect place to reside on a picnic bench and enjoy our packed lunches – crusty artisan loaves, thick wedges of local cheddar, and savoury vegetable pastries.
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The quarry's deep water created a dramatic, wild setting, framed by the impressive, craggy heights of the cliffs above. We took a moment to imagine how wonderful the spot would be at night – the deep stone bowl the quarry sits inside blocks out surrounding light, making it one of the absolute best places in the UK to view the Milky Way and the Northern Lights – and not surprisingly a designated Dark Sky Discovery Site. The true crescendo of the afternoon came as we conquered Winshields Crags. Reaching the absolute highest point of the entire Hadrian's Wall Path, we were rewarded with dizzying, 360-degree views of the untamed, epic northern landscape. Descending from the crags, our 9-mile trek drew to a close in the hamlet of Once Brewed, for a well-earned pint at Twice Brewed Inn – there’s a history to these names, best explained to you while you're still sober. For centuries, this spot was known solely as Twice Brewed, named after the 18th-century alehouse that famously served double-strength beer to weary travellers. However, in 1934, an alcohol-free youth hostel opened next door, proudly declaring that their tea and coffee was – strictly ‘once brewed’ – a cheeky nickname that stuck so hard that mapmakers changed the hamlet's official name to Once Brewed. So, while the modern maps point you to the sober title of the two, the historic Twice Brewed Inn is where the original village name lives on, and the beer is still strong – brewed onsite in a modern craft brewery with tasting tap room – there’s even accommodation and a Dark Skies Observatory here too. No matter whether you are ‘once’ or ‘twice’ brewed, inside the pub there is a more reflective history to observe – a striking, framed cut of the Sycamore Gap tree trunk (gifted by the National Trust), is mounted on the wall. A sombre but fitting tribute to the iconic 150-yearold tree that stood in the gap until it was tragically felled by vandals a few years ago. We hadn’t yet walked past the sacred spot, one which the locals now refer to as ‘the crime scene’ – however, while sipping my deliciously crisp and refreshing pint of Sycamore Gap (the brewery’s very first craft beer), I found myself reflecting on this senseless act – and loss of such an iconic tree, which so many of us will sadly now never get to see. The largest remaining section of the trunk can be seen up the road from the pub at The Sill Museum, where it has been crafted into a permanent sculpture as part of the ‘Sycamore Gap: Coming Home’ exhibition.
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Unlock content and read the full issue... We popped into the Twice Brewed Tap Room where we sampled Vindolanda, aptly named for the nearby Roman fort – and home to the famous Vindolanda Tablets, the oldest surviving handwritten documents in Britain – and a bizarre brew that looked like something straight out of Mr Wonka’s chocolate factory. Vibrant purple, and a bold mix of nostalgic candy-sweetness with a sharp, citrusy tartness. Challenged to guess the mystery flavour, we suggested Hubba Bubba or lemon sherbet, before our bartender revealed the name, Bubblegum Sour. After buying a t-shirt and some glasses to remember the experience, we were transferred to Langley Castle, our magnificent home for the next two nights – and one of the very few fully fortified medieval castle hotels in the UK. Stepping onto the stone spiral staircase, passing the Gryffindor capes hanging for guests to don, felt as though we had been transported to Hogwarts. J.K. Rowling stayed at Langley Castle four times, and the castle’s dramatic, medieval stairs are widely believed to have served as the inspiration for the moving grand staircase. Our absolutely ginormous grand room featured a magnificent four-poster bed with curtains so colossal, heavy, and endless that I am sure English Heritage could use them as a backup fabric to protect another stretch of Hadrian's Wall! The evening ritual only added to the castle's theatrical charm, with guests beginning their dining journey in the grand, fire-lit drawing room, before being escorted downstairs to the main restaurant. Our meal at the award-winning Josephine Restaurant was delightful, a fine-dining Table d'Hôte menu with hand-dived scallops, crisp lamb shoulder and passionfruit s'more (fluffy marshmallow filled with a sweet passionfruit caramel).
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DAY FIVE Once Brewed to Chollerford Over a lovely breakfast, we took a moment to appreciate the sheer endurance of the Rat Race participants we had met the day before – we’d left them for Twice Brewed with 40 miles still to go, where they would be running throughout the night – and it was difficult to fathom that as we sat there finishing our delicious Craster Kippers they would only just be reaching the finish line in Newcastle. The magic at Langley Castle continued outside in the 12-acre woodland estate gardens, where we met Pedro the Peacock, the hotel's famous resident. If time had allowed, we would have joined the morning tour up to the historic battlements for sweeping, panoramic views of the Northumberland countryside. Instead, we collected our packed lunches and headed back to Once Brewed, eager to step onto what is widely considered the most visually spectacular section of the trail. The morning path immediately served up dramatic, rugged ridge lines as we tracked the stone fortifications and hit a historic milestone when the Pennine Way – Britain’s very first national trail, opened in 1965 – briefly merges with the Hadrian’s Wall path. Pushing ahead, we dropped down into Sycamore Gap where the ‘crime scene’ of the felled Sycamore tree has been protected by conservation fencing; peeking through, we were pleased to see that natural regrowth has begun, with healthy new shoots sprouting. Climbing back onto the crags, we skirted the glassy waters of Crag Lough, pausing to watch a few patient fly fishermen casting for brown trout against the dramatic backdrop of the Whin Sill cliff faces. Not long after, we came to Milecastle 37, one of the best-preserved small Roman fortlets along Hadrian's Wall, where you can still see part of the stone archway, marking where Roman soldiers once stood guard. The path then led us onto the soaring panoramic plateau of Housesteads Roman Fort (Vercovicium), which, lacking natural springs or rivers nearby, boasts the best-preserved stone communal latrines (toilets) in Roman Britain, featuring a continuous flush system powered by rainwater collected in cisterns. We stopped to collect our fourth passport stamp, and made ourselves a tea from the on-site shop. We marched along Sewingshields Crag, a beautifully rugged and peaceful stretch of the wall that escapes the usual museum crowds. It is also here where you can clearly see where the Romans changed
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their minds about how thick to build Hadrian's Wall – switching to a narrower stone wall right on top of a wider base to save time, labour, and materials midconstruction. We crossed paths with a lovely man out walking his dog, who stopped for a chat and casually mentioned that he was the farmer responsible for the vast, sweeping land stretching out as far as our eyes could see. As we continued walking, he warmly directed us toward his snack shed – Sewingshields Shed. It was impressive – a beautifully converted, timber-clad outbuilding come hidden sanctuary for weary hikers. The rustic stone-walled interior was filled with educational displays lining the walls, which beautifully detailed the deep history of Sewingshields Farm and the family's modern, inspiring transition toward regenerative farming for the future, featuring images of Jamie (the farmer we had just met) and his daughters who helped him to run the farm – complete with a hot coffee machine, a well-stocked fridge, traybakes, brownies, and Kettle Crisps. Just past Milecastle 34, also known as Grindon, we peered over the moated site of Sewingshields Castle – where legend says King Arthur, Queen Guinevere, and their entire court lie under a magical enchantment in a hidden hall below the stones, waiting for someone to blow a mythical bugle horn. Leaving the high crags behind, we dropped down to Shield on the Wall, following the ancient Roman military road past Tower Tye. The landscape softened into rolling green pastures, leading us to the atmospheric Temple of Mithras. We paused briefly at the trio of replica altars, noticing the collection of coins and small tokens left behind by contemporary travellers keeping a longstanding pilgrim tradition alive. We reached Chollerford and stopped at Chesters Roman Fort and Museum to collect our fifth passport stamp. Had the museum still been open, as Britain’s most complete Roman cavalry fort, we could have wandered through the well-preserved bathhouses, steam rooms, and officers' headquarters. However, we had walked well over our recommended steps for the day, and felt enriched by the sheer depth of history we had walked through – so decided to continue a little further to reach the riverside beer garden at the George Hotel. As people enjoyed paddleboarding and wild swimming in the River Tyne, we celebrated another incredible day on the wall with a local cask ale from Hadrian Border Brewery.
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DAY SIX Chollerford to Heddon on the Wall Leaving the comforts of Langley Castle behind, our transfer dropped us back at Chollerford to begin our penultimate day of walking. Before crossing the Chollerford Bridge, I couldn’t resist popping into The Riverside Kitchen, where the freshly made quiches and pies, and the daily selection of homemade desserts, made me think forward to lunch far too early. Just a mile or so in, we reached Low Brunton, home to the impressive Brunton Turret, offering spectacular views of one of the longest remaining continuous stone sections of the wall. From Brunton, the path climbed steadily up to the high point of Whittington Fell. Tucked away in a quiet copse just off the trail, we stumbled upon St Oswald’s Church at Heavenfield. This hidden hilltop spot felt like stepping straight into the pages of a 7th-century chronicle, built from red sandstone blocks scavenged directly from Hadrian’s Wall. Inside, we were stopped in our tracks by an impressive, five-foot-tall Roman altar standing beside the font – its sheer size suggesting it once belonged to a high-ranking Roman officer. On this very hillside in AD 634, King Oswald raised a wooden cross on the eve of the Battle of Heavenfield after receiving a vision of St Columba, leading his outnumbered Northumbrian forces to victory. The original wooden church was built right on that spot to welcome the flood of pilgrims seeking cures from splinters of the cross. Today, this peaceful, isolated sanctuary is the official starting point for the 97-mile St Oswald’s Way pilgrimage to Lindisfarne. Pulling ourselves away from the weight of the centuries, we stopped at the Errington Coffee House near Portgate, a welcome lunchtime pit-stop before continuing through East Wallhouses to the lovely old Robin Hood’s Inn, which has been welcoming weary wanderers since 1752. Encouraged by seeing some fellow hikers we had spoken to earlier on in the trail, we stopped for a quick refreshment – and were pleased we did, as we might otherwise have forgotten that this oddly named pub (which has nothing to do with the medieval outlaw or Sherwood Forest), was the next collection point for our sixth passport stamp. Further east, the trail skirted the faint mounds of Vindobala Fort, the first truly rural Roman stronghold out of Newcastle, where a grand Mithraic temple still lies buried beneath the surrounding farm buildings. Our rewarding day finally drew to a close as we arrived in the village of Heddon-on-the-Wall –
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Unlock content and read the full issue... where we were transferred to Matfen Hall Hotel – a breathtaking, palatial country estate. Our arrival at Matfen Hall felt like stepping into a Gothic dream. We were welcomed with cocktails in the lounge in front of a crackling fireplace fuelled by kiln-dried logs from the estate, and continued to enjoy them from the bar, while gazing out over the sweeping views of the golf course. The hotel’s interiors are breathtakingly beautiful, boasting grand high ceilings and light-drenched spacious bedrooms that exude elegance with original ornate cornicing, antique Victorian wardrobes, roll-top baths and underfloor heating. The news of the spa being closed and under wraps for an exciting refurbishment only added to the intrigue of this magnificent estate. Feeling transformed and dressed for dinner, the Emerald Restaurant (Northumberland’s only 3 AA Rosette restaurant) didn't disappoint – we were treated to an impeccable dinner, elevated by the expertise of a brilliant sommelier whose passion for the cellar was genuinely infectious. From the table d’hôte menu, every course was a delight, including the foie gras terrine, Orkney scallop, and Cumbrian lamb hogget. For dessert, I chose the whisky and dark chocolate pavé, which arrived with a dram of Laphroaig, one of my favourites. The crackling fire and flowing conversation held us captive until we were the last guests in the room. By morning, it was clear that a single night at Matfen Hall wasn’t enough – we felt beautifully cocooned in its warmth, and it was almost painful to leave. It’s definitely on the list for a return visit, ideally timed for when that glamorous new spa finally unveils itself to the world.
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DAY SEVEN Heddon on the Wall to Wallsend Our final day on the trail began back at Heddon-onthe-Wall. The path sloped downwards, leading us directly through the beautifully manicured, rolling greens of Close House Golf Club. Walking alongside the pristine fairways and quiet woodlands, we crossed paths with a lovely local gardener. We stopped to chat, and he proudly shared stories of his own trek along the trail, having once conquered the entire length of the wall in just four impressive days. Leaving the golfers and our new friend behind, the open country paths began to shift. The countryside gradually gave way to the urban fringes of Tyneside, and the physical remains of the Roman Wall faded from view. We tracked our way toward Newburn, stopping at Elsie's Riverside Coffee Shop and St Michael and All Angels Church. From Newburn, the trail hugged the River Tyne as we marched closer to the heart of the city, and the industrial heritage of the North East took centre stage. We walked along the banks, tracking a path south of where Antony Gormley’s iconic Angel of the North stands watch over the distant Gateshead hills. Soon, the spectacular architectural skyline of the Tyne Bridges loomed ahead, spanning the water in a dramatic display of engineering history. Following the river directly into the vibrant heart of Newcastle, we walked by the Swing Bridge – installed by William Armstrong in 1876 on the exact site of the original Roman bridge named in honour of Emperor Hadrian – and the timber-framed 16th-century facade of Bessie Surtees House. Looking up, the city's namesake loomed over us – Newcastle Castle, standing proud against the modern skyline. Just past these iconic structures, we pulled into Chandlers Quay for a well-deserved late lunch stop, watching the activity along the vibrant waterfront. The final, flat stretch of the 16-mile march guided us past the historic Guildhall toward our ultimate destination. At long last, we arrived at the Segedunum Roman Fort and Museum in Wallsend. Standing at the official end of the Hadrian’s Wall Path, looking out over the remains of the easternmost fort on the frontier, the sheer magnitude of what we had achieved hit home. We had walked from coast to coast, tracing the edge of an empire! After a celebratory moment, we were transferred to Seaham Hall, where we were truly rewarded with a soft four-poster bed and luxury.
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That evening, we kept things blissfully relaxed, with a three-course dinner at Harvey’s Bar. It was the perfect, low-key setting to unwind; there was no pressure to dress up for the occasion – just a wonderful meal and the quiet, elegant comfort of a hotel that knows exactly how to make depleted wayfarers feel at home. The following morning, the real indulgence began with a visit to the Serenity Spa and the hotel’s brandnew Japanese-inspired Zen Garden. A few brave dips in the cold plunge pool followed by the warmth of the hydrotherapy pool helped relieve our aching muscles. We made sure to fuel up with a light lunch at Geko, the spa’s Asian restaurant, where we devoured chicken karaage, perfectly grilled kushiyaki, fresh Lindisfarne Oysters and crispy fried oyster mushrooms. Seaham Hall was the final, restorative chapter of an adventure that had truly given us everything – from sweeping northern vistas to evenings of candlelit luxury in five of the UK’s finest hotels. I took a last proud look at my now-complete Hadrian’s Wall passport book – seven ink stamps that hold not just the miles we covered, but memories to last forever. I spent the journey home drifting between watching the landscape roll by and deciding which national trail to attempt next – there are 21 in total, including the newly designated Coast to Coast Path and the fully open King Charles III England Coast Path. Though whichever we choose, we’ll be leaving the ultramarathon runners to chase the clock, content in our decision that the best way to experience England’s national trails is one slow, savoured step at a time. Seaham Hall, Matfen Hall and Farlam Hall are all part of the PoB Hotels collection. An 8-night, self-guided luxury Hadrian’s Wall walk is priced from £3,990 per person. Including accommodation every night with breakfast, luggage transfers between hotels, and transfers at the beginning and end of each day. the-carter-company.com
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road north THE LONG
Discover the wild spirit of Scotland on the iconic North Coast 500. From fresh lobster and creamy cheeses to mist-shrouded Munros and jagged coastlines, this circular route offers the ultimate road trip through the country’s most breathtaking scenery. Text & photography by Karolina Wiercigroch
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carpets of rapeseed unfurling to our click here luminous left, golden gorse tracing the jugged coastline to our right. In the distance, snow-dusted Highland peaks loom beneath clearing rainclouds, while two freshly caught lobsters sit in the boot – tonight’s dinner secured. For a route often described as “Scotland’s Route 66”, the opening scenes are suitably cinematic. Stretching 516 miles through four historic counties, the North Coast 500 has become Scotland’s ultimate road trip since launching in 2015. Beginning and ending at Inverness Castle, the circular route threads through some of the country’s most spectacular landscapes, from wave-battered cliffs to remote beaches and ancient fishing villages. One of our first stops on the journey was the small fishing village of Portmahomack on the Tarbat Peninsula, once a major Pictish centre and home to the only early Christian Pictish monastery ever excavated in Scotland. From the broad sandy beach, we walk to the 19th-century harbour, where Lewis Smith, a third-generation lobster fisherman, invites us aboard his boat to check the pots. “My dad was a fisherman, and his father was a fisherman,” he says. “I started helping my dad in early teens and now I’m just trying to carry it on.” Most days start before dawn, hauling lobster creels from the cold waters off Dornoch. “The sunrise out at sea is incredible,” he says with a smile, handing over two freshly caught lobsters. “But it’s hard work, and it can be dangerous in bad weather.” Back onshore, Lewis and his fiancée, Shona Amos, run Surf&Turf, a laid-back restaurant in the heart of Dornoch. The menu celebrates the surrounding coastline: creamy cullen skink, crisp Peterhead haddock and chips, and what might just be
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the Highlands’ finest lobster rolls – packed with lobster Lewis hauled from the sea only hours earlier. He also supplies local hotels and shops, including Links House at Royal Dornoch, where we’re heading this evening with our catch. A short stroll from the honey-hued centre of historic Dornoch – and just moments from the town’s sweeping beach and celebrated championship golf course – Links House is one of the Highlands’ most elegant retreats. With the main house built in 1843 from pale Sutherland sandstone, the boutique hotel combines classic Highland style with contemporary comfort across 15 individually designed rooms, each named after one of Scotland’s famed salmon rivers. After a warm welcome at reception, we hand over our freshly caught lobsters to the kitchen before retreating to the hotel’s library for tea. With wood-panelled walls, deep armchairs and shelves lined with books, the space feels more like a private home than a hotel lounge. Oil paintings of stags, boats and anglers reflect the region’s sporting
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heritage, while an honesty bar is stocked with Dalmore whisky from the nearby distillery, less than 20 miles away. We brave the brisk coastal wind for a walk along the grassy dunes and sandy beach, part of the John o’ Groats Trail, the long-distance route tracing Scotland’s dramatic northeastern coastline. Back at the hotel, dinner is served at MARA, Links House’s fine-dining restaurant, where a five-course tasting menu showcases the best of Scotland’s natural larder. Orkney oysters arrive with dill oil, sweet Portmahomack crab is folded into a delicately spiced dumpling. North Sea cod and Ross-shire lamb follow in beautifully balanced courses, while our own lobsters reappear as a simple, elegant take on lobster thermidor. The following morning brings another celebration of Highland produce. Breakfast begins with the creamiest porridge, followed by a Highland take on eggs Benedict: served on potato scones with haggis. We then move on to a guided cheese tasting. Rory Stone of Highland Fine Cheeses introduces the range produced at
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here Every small farm or croft had a “Traditionally the Highlands was click cattle country. house cow to supplement the tedious diet of mutton, neeps, tatties and road kill... ③ preserved milk in the world – crowdie.” any spare milk was turned into the simplest
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his family dairy in nearby Tain. “Traditionally the Highlands was cattle country. Every small farm or croft had a house cow to supplement the tedious diet of mutton, neeps, tatties and road kill,” he says. “Any spare milk was turned into the simplest preserved milk in the world – crowdie.” The business began with crowdie after Rory’s father remarked that no one was producing it anymore, prompting his mother to revive the traditional recipe. Light, creamy and delicately crumbly, it’s perfect spread thickly over an oatcake. We also sample Fat Cow, a semi-hard cheese inspired by Gruyère and Emmental; Minger, an unapologetically pungent brie-style cheese; soft, silky Morangie Brie; and Blue Murder, a mellow blue with a subtle sweetness. With a wedge of Fat Cow and a packet of oatcakes tucked into our bag, we continue our journey north along the North Coast 500.
click here home in the Northern Highlands. Home to the Earls and
later the Dukes of Sutherland, it has a striking French château-style design, complete with fairytale spires and turrets. During a brief spell of sunshine, we wander through the immaculate Versailles-inspired gardens before continuing north. By the time we reach John o’ Groats, the northernmost point of mainland Great Britain, the rain has returned. After a brisk walk along the rugged coastline, we duck into 8 Doors Distillery. Alongside whisky, the distillery produces Five Ways, an award-winning whisky liqueur flavoured with orange, ginger, honey and spices, named after the town’s famous five-way signpost. From here, we drive west as the landscape shifts. The neat stone houses and sheltered harbours of the
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east coast give way to open moorland, jagged cliffs and vast, empty horizons. By the time we arrive in Tongue, a small village on the far north coast, Ben Loyal and Ben Hope rise beyond the calm waters of the Kyle of Tongue, creating one of the route’s most memorable vistas. Our base for the night is Tongue Hotel, a characterful Highland retreat with traditional interiors and views across the surrounding landscape. Before dinner, we climb to the ruins of Castle Varrich, once the seat of Clan Mackay, perched on a clifftop opposite the village. Back at the hotel, dinner is served in the cosy, woodpanelled Varrich Restaurant: a warming bowl of smoked salmon chowder followed by perfectly cooked Scotch sirloin steak – a fitting end to another day on the road. I wake to sunlight spilling across the room and the outline of imposing Munros beyond my window – a sure sign it’s a day for hiking. Fuelled by eggs Florentine and freshly brewed coffee, we set off through the Tongue Causeway before turning onto a single-track country road that follows Loch Hope towards the Ben Hope
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trailhead. Scotland’s most northerly Munro, Ben Hope is a steep 2.5-mile climb through cold winds and passing drizzle. Near the summit, the clouds lift to reveal far-reaching views across glistening sea lochs, wild moorland, and the pointed peak of the neighbouring Ben Loyal. Back on the road, the coastal drive along Loch Eriboll is one of the standout sections of the NC500. Its deep, mirror-like waters are home to a thriving rope-grown mussel industry run by local crofters and fishers. As we turn south, the landscape shifts between sandy beaches, dunes, crofted farmland and small lochans tucked beneath rugged hills. We check into Kylesku Hotel, dramatically positioned beside Kylesku Bridge, where Loch Glendhu and Loch Glencoul meet to form Loch a’ Chàirn Bhàin. The hotel’s restaurant is filled with light and chatter, its wide windows framing the loch and surrounding mountains. The menu reflects the setting: fresh oysters, hand-dived scallops, creel-caught lobster and crab from
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the surrounding waters, and mussels from the nearby Isle of Lewis, gently cooked in white wine sauce and served with crispy fries. To finish, a plate of familiar cheeses – Fat Cow and Blue Murder – supplied by our friend Rory at Highland Fine Cheeses. The following morning, we head into the wild interior of Assynt, a vast, sparsely populated landscape defined by its “cnoc and lochan” terrain – low rocky hills scattered among countless small lakes and pools. We pause at the ruins of Ardvreck Castle, set on a narrow peninsula in Loch Assynt, before continuing to Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve. The site is known for some of the oldest rocks in Europe, with formations dating back up to three billion years. A marked trail leads us through the reserve, with viewpoints opening out across the Coigach and Assynt mountains and the surrounding lochs. From there, it’s a short drive to Ullapool, an 18th-century whitewashed village on Loch Broom, which remains a working harbour. We stop at the Ullapool Smokehouse, sampling some excellent hot-smoked salmon with heather honey and
a moreish smoked cheddar. That evening we return to the east coast for our final night. We dine in the elegant restaurant at The Curing Yard in the Royal Marine Hotel in Brora, surrounded by renowned golf courses, long sandy beaches and world-famous distilleries. We nibble on haggis and paneer pakora – an unexpectedly good pairing – and reflect on everything still left undone along the North Coast 500: hiking the remote Munros near Ullapool, driving the Bealach na Bà mountain pass, swimming in the turquoise waters of Achmelvich Bay. Caves and waterfalls, distilleries and seafood shacks, castles and tearooms still line the road ahead. A few days is clearly not enough. Even a month would feel short.
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Stays at Links House start from £200 per night B&B; linkshousedornoch.com. Stays at Kyelsku Hotel, Tongue Hotel, Royal Marine Hotel and other Highland Coast Hotels start from £159 per night B&B; highlandcoasthotels.com. Dunrobin Castle closes for the season at the end of October and reopens in spring 2027; dunrobincastle.co.uk.
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Rooted region IN THE
WEEKEND GETAWAYS IN KENT & SUSSEX 82 BritishTravelJournal.com
KENT
British vineyard visits shouldn’t be reserved for the spring and summer months. Kent & Sussex provide plenty of opportunity for autumnal wine escapes encompassing wholesome pub food, boutique hotels, historic houses and country walks.
A COSY PUB STAY Balfour Winemakers Pub, Goudhurst A standout tasting room and terrace overlooking pristine rows of vines, a fine dining restaurant, events spaces, art gallery, nature trail and more have helped secure Balfour Winery’s position at the top of UK best vineyards to visit lists. The only thing missing has been accommodation. So, earlier this year, more than two decades after Richard and Leslie Balfour-Lynn first planted vines at what was Staplehurst’s then Hush Heath winery, they’ve opened a pub with rooms right around the corner. The Winemaker’s Pub, in Goudhurst, serves nostalgic British pub classics shaped by seasonality and local produce, such as cider-braised Kent Pork Belly and Balfour IPA Steak & Kidney Suet Pudding, Jam Roly-Poly and Sticky Toffee Pudding, all paired alongside an exclusively Balfour wine list. There are four bedrooms upstairs and a free shuttle bus to and from the winery and nearby Marden railway station, so there’s no excuse not to enjoy a glass or two. While you’re there: Sissinghurst Castle Gardens are a 10-minute drive away and if you want another vineyard fix, as is Biddenden – Kent’s oldest vineyard. From £95 per night, winemakerspub.com
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SUSSEX
QUINTESSENTIAL VILLAGE STAY The Black Horse, Amberley, & Nutbourne Wine Estate When founders of the B-Corp certified Local & Wild restaurants collection, The Gladwyn brothers, found the village pub for sale, just 10 minutes’ drive from their family’s West Sussex vineyard, they saw it as a sign to open their first pub with rooms outside of London. Positioned in the centre of the quaint thatch and wisteria-speckled village of Amberley, The Black Horse has hyperlocal dining at its core, with much of the produce, including tomatoes, eggs, lamb, honey and wine coming from the Gladwyn’s family farm and vineyard, Nutbourne. These ingredients sit alongside locally foraged mushrooms and herbs, Tamworth Pork Belly and whole brill caught off Worthing’s coast. The traditional bar, with its open fires and cosy nooks, is the perfect spot for a relaxed glass of Sussex Reserve – a still white combining Nutbourne’s old vine Riesling-style German varietals with Pinot Noir – while the elevated outdoor terrace is furnished with heaters and a firepit for autumnal evenings al fresco. There are 11 bedrooms, each decorated with pieces from the village pottery just along the lane, locally sourced vintage finds and artwork by the family’s matriarch, Bridget. You’ll likely meet a member or two of the family stopping by at the vineyard, considered one of the prettiest in the UK with its rustic barn, windmill and old, gnarly vines. While you’re there: Don’t miss the Monday night supper club wine dinners, £38pp including a three-course meal and wine pairings. Stays at The Black Horse start from £88 per night, blackhorse-pub.com. Visitors to Nutbourne can do the vineyard trail for free. Tours start at £35pp; nutbournevineyards.com
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A ROMANTIC STAY The Pump House at Wiston Estate For ultimate seclusion while still being within a short walk of an award-winning winery and restaurant, this beautifully renovated former pump house sits right at the foot of the South Downs with views towards Chanctonbury Ring and romantic walking routes leading straight from the door. There’s a wood-fired hot tub outdoor terrace and, perhaps most importantly, a bottle of Wiston Brut NV waiting in the fridge. Spend the day exploring Wiston's vineyards and winery, stop for a spot of lunch at Chalk before retreating to the cottage for a glass of English sparkling as the sun goes down. The cottage can sleep up to four people should you want to book for a family getaway though the secluded location deserves a little romance. While you’re there: Walk up to Chanctonbury Ring, 794ft above sea level, for panoramic views of the Downs. Minimum three-night stays at The Pump House start from £775. Tours and tastings start from £30pp. wistonestate.com
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Make the Magic Last a Little Longer with a Stay Luxury 5* Accommodation set in the beautiful Kent countryside.
AN EXPERIENCE TO REMEMBER
hevercastle.co.uk
C H R I S T M A S AT H E V E R C A S T L E
KENT
FIT FOR A KING OR QUEEN Hever Castle and Squerryes Vineyard Staying at Hever Castle – Anne Boleyn's childhood home – inside its luxury Edwardian guest wing offers a perfect blend of Tudor history and awardwinning English wine. Stay in one of the 26 boutique rooms, or for larger groups, Medley Court, a grand four-bedroom cottage sleeping eight, seamlessly attached to the Astor Wing. Guests can enjoy rich fabrics, antique furniture, leaded windows, exclusive out-of-hours garden access and breakfast in the vaulted dining room. A 20-minute drive away lies the 2,500-acre Squerryes Estate, producing sparkling wines on the same chalk seam as Champagne. Settle into the elegant Squerryes Winery Restaurant or the terrace for a tasting flight of vintage fizzes, expertly paired with seasonal dishes and estate-sourced wild game – whether you prefer a tutored masterclass or a simple stroll through the vines. While you’re there: Explore nearby Chartwell or Westerham, or visit Hever Castle during the festive season for 'A Nutcracker's Christmas' and light trail, where as darkness falls the grounds are transformed as the Castle, gardens, and lake are bathed in magical festive lights. Stays at Hever Castle start from £145 per night, hevercastle.co.uk.
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KENT
A DESIGN-LED WEEKEND Boys Hall & Westwell Vineyard, Ashford The historic 17th-century Jacobean manor house, Boys Hall, and the contemporary Westwell Winery, both near Ashford, could not be more different as venues. However, there’s a lot of synergy in the owners’ palpable passion for wine, how it should be shared with others and a keen eye for design. At Boys Hall, Brad Lomas and wife Kristie have created a historic home-from-home celebrated for its unique balance of historic character, comfort, and community-driven ethos. This manifests in personal tours of Brad’s beloved wine cellar, inventive dishes cooked over flame, an English-focused wine list and its own English sparkling wine, Seventeen Sovereigns made from grapes sourced from some of the best sites in the UK and named after a hoard of gold coins found hidden beneath the floorboards during a previous renovation. The one thing that is missing are vines. But they’re not far; just seven miles down the road, Adrian and Galia Pike are just as focused on community building and looking beyond what goes into the glass and how the vineyard can be an experience for all. Think supper clubs, pizza nights, theatre and cinema in the vines and arts and crafts. While you’re there: Westwell sits on the Pilgrims' Way – walk a short part around the village or the lengthier 15 miles into the centre of Canterbury Rooms at Boys Hall start from £180 per night, wine dinners take place throughout the year £95pp, boys-hall.com. Tours at Westwell start at £28, westwellwines.com
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KENT
FOOD & FUN The Pig-at Bridge Place & Simpsons Wine Estate The Pig-at Bridge Place’s kitchen garden and 25-mile menu ethos make much of the pleasure of staying here about eating and drinking what is grown close by. But the secret staircases and cosy corners of this 17th-century red-brick hideaway have also played host to a rollcall of rock legends, including Led Zeplin, The Kinks and The Yardbrids, who all played earl gigs here when it was a country club in the sixties. The entertaining nature of this restaurant with rooms is emulated at Simpsons Wine Estate, where a helter-skelter slide awaits willing guests to make their descent from the tasting room to the winery. Owned by Ruth and Charles Simpson, who also make wine in the Languedoc, the estate marks 10 years since its first harvest this year and celebrated with the launch of its first nonvintage Chalklands Classic Cuvée. While you’re there: Explore the medieval streets of Canterbury, home to the iconic Westgate Towers and the independent boutiques along the King’s Mile. Overnight stays at The Pig at Bridge Place start at £145, thepighotel.com. Tours and tastings at Simpsons start at £25, simpsonswine.com
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HISTORICAL WINE AND DINE Chilston Park Hotel & Chapel Down, Lenham & Tenterden If your ideal weekend combines English wine with a serious dose of history, Chilston Park Hotel in Lenham is hard to beat. Set in 22 acres of parkland, the historic country house – with its Bridgerton-esque charm – makes a suitably grand base for exploring the Kent countryside. The wine connection comes courtesy of Chapel Down, one of England's best-known wine producers, with an experience that brings the Kentish wine story directly into the hotel, making it possible to enjoy an English wine tasting without having to venture far. For those who can’t resist a visit to the vines, the Chapel Down estate is less than 30 minutes’ away, where vineyard tours and tastings provide a broader introduction to the producer, and the option to dine at the two AA star Swan restaurant. While you’re there: Visit nearby Leeds Castle to discover more of the local history and links to Chilston Park. Chapel Down Discovery Experience staying in a double room with breakfast, including lunch at either Chilston Park or Chapel Down Estates with exclusive Chapel Down Winery tour and tasting proced £270, handpickedhotels.co.uk
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IMAGES: CHAPEL DOWN © AMY HEYCOCK, BALFOUR WINEMAKERS © MELANIE HOBSON, PUMP HOUSE © MATTHEW J THOMAS, CLOVER AT HEVER CASTLE © JONATHAN SYER, SQUERRYES © SAM A HARRIS / JAKE EASTHAM, THE PIG AT BRIDGE PLACE © JAKE EASTHAM
KENT
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A GROWN-UP RURAL RETREAT Tillingham in Peasmarsh At Tillingham, the Sussex wine scene takes a distinctly modern turn. This biodynamic vineyard and farm combines accommodation, wine production and food in one beautifully rural setting. The estate has around 70 acres to explore, with vineyard tours and tastings offering an insight into its low-intervention approach and natural wines. The accommodation has a relaxed, design-conscious feel, while the food is built around seasonal, local produce within the Green Michelin-starred restaurant and less formal pizza in the Dutch Barn. Guests can stay in one of the 11 rooms in the main building, or head out among nature in one of two bell tents. While you’re there: Wrap up and take a walk along the sandy dunes of Camber Sands. Double rooms at Tillingham start from £235 per night for two people; tillingham.com
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Close encounters From roaring lions and breaching whales to elusive beavers and swirling starling murmurations, British Travel Journal rounds up ten unforgettable breaks across the UK that combine remarkable wildlife encounters with memorable places to stay. Text by Sophie Farrah
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WILD SKYE
Glasan, Isle of Skye On the Isle of Skye, the dramatic landscape is every bit as captivating as the wildlife. Perched on the peaceful Sleat Peninsula, Glasan is perfectly placed to soak up both. This serenely understated, architect-designed cabin for two has an enormous picture window that brings the outside in from dawn until dusk, so you can watch seals bob offshore, otters scamper along the water's edge and seabirds glide overhead. Nearby, boat trips to the tiny Isle of Canna offer the chance to spot dolphins, puffins, basking sharks and even minke whales. Back at the cabin, a crackling woodburner keeps things cosy and a firepit invites long evenings beneath Skye's famously dark, star-studded skies. Whatever you do, don't forget your binoculars. A night at Glasan from £225, kiphideaways.com
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2
HEAD FOR THE HIGHLANDS
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Naturetrek's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands Scotland is one of Europe's most epic wildlife destinations, where ancient forests, rugged mountains and dramatic coastlines are home to some of Britain's most elusive species. Naturetrek's eight-day Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands holiday explores Scotland's 'wild west' – the spectacular Ardnamurchan Peninsula – where expert naturalists lead the way as you track pine martens, otters, red deer, golden eagles and Britain's elusive wildcat. With accommodation and expert guiding included throughout, all you need to do is keep your eyes peeled. Naturetrek also offers a fiveday Winter Wildlife of the Cairngorms adventure, exploring snow-covered mountains and ancient Caledonian pine forests in search of red squirrels and mountain hares, with the chance of spotting crested tits and golden eagles soaring overhead. Naturetrek's holidays mentioned above start at £1,795pp, naturetrek.co.uk
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3
DOLPHIN DAYS
Cardigan Bay, Wales There's something undeniably special about seeing dolphins in the wild. In Wales, Cardigan Bay is home to the UK's largest resident population of bottlenose dolphins, making it one of the best places to spot them. Time your visit with one of SeaMôr's Sunset Dolphin Watching trips from New Quay, where the bay glows in the evening light, and these magnificent marine mammals have been known to leap, glide and surface around the boat. The twilight hours often provide some of the best sightings, as the fish the dolphins feed on become increasingly active near the surface. An onboard hydrophone offers the unique chance to listen to the clicks and whistles these magical mammals use to communicate beneath the waves, while grey seals, harbour porpoises and seabirds also make regular appearances. At the end of the day, head north to The Harbourmaster in Aberaeron, a thoughtfully restored former harbourmaster's house where contemporary comfort meets one of the prettiest harbours on the Welsh coast. Accommodation is spread across three historic harbour-side buildings, including 11 individually styled rooms in the hotel's iconic blue building. SeaMôr's Sunset Dolphin Watching trips cost £15 (£10 children), seamor. org. Rooms at The Harbourmaster start at £130 per night, harbour-master.com
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4
SAFARI TIME
Longleat, Wiltshire Home to Britain's original safari park, Longleat in Wiltshire combines extraordinary wildlife encounters with one of England's grandest country estates. Drive through vast reserves where lions, tigers, wolves, rhinos, giraffes, zebras and notoriously cheeky monkeys roam free before exploring walking trails home to red pandas, otters, koalas, cheetahs and more. Boat safaris offer the chance to see (and feed!) California sea lions, while behind-the-scenes experiences offer the chance to get even closer to some of the park's most charismatic residents. Wake up surrounded by wildlife in one of Longleat's seven beautifully appointed self-catering cottages, such as Keeper's House, a stylish four-bedroom retreat overlooking the East African Reserve, where panoramic views stretch across the landscape as Grant's zebras, Nubian giraffes and other wildlife graze and roam just beyond your window. Accommodation at Longleat starts at £500, based on an off-peak one-night stay in East Lodge for up to four people, including entry tickets for the duration of the stay, longleat.co.uk
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BIRDSONG & BATHS
Elmley, Kent If your idea of a wildlife holiday is peace, quiet and birdsong rather than roaring lions, Elmley Nature Reserve is hard to beat. Set within 3,300 unspoilt acres on the Isle of Sheppey off the northern coast of Kent, this vast, wonderfully remote landscape is one of the UK's finest places for birdwatching, with marsh harriers, lapwings, owls and countless migrating waders regularly spotted across the reserve. Stay in one of Elmley's beautifully designed shepherd’s huts or glass-fronted cabins, where you can watch wildlife from the comfort of your bed before slipping into an outdoor bath as dusk settles across the reserve. Throw in guided wildlife experiences, private tours, restorative wellness treatments and delicious seasonal suppers delivered straight to your door, and it's very hard to leave. Accommodation at Elmley starts at £165 per night for a traditional hut, large shepherd's huts from £180, and cabins from £200, elmleynaturereserve.co.uk
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6
LOUNGE WITH LIONS
Port Lympne, Kent There aren't many places in the world where you can watch lions prowl from the comfort of your bed, or bath for that matter. At Port Lympne Hotel & Reserve in Kent, unforgettable accommodation is as much a part of the experience as the wildlife itself. Choose from luxury treehouses and safari lodges overlooking the animals, cosy bubble pods immersed in the trees, or the spectacular Lion Lodge, where floor-to-ceiling windows and outdoor baths offer breathtaking views of the magnificent big cats. Beyond your room lies a 600-acre reserve, home to more than 900 rare and endangered animals, best explored on a truck safari across the sweeping Kentish savannah or by selfdrive golf buggy, included with your accommodation. Better yet, every stay supports the conservation work of The Aspinall Foundation, helping fund the care of rare and endangered animals and pioneering efforts to return threatened species to the wild. Accommodation at Port Lympne starts at £309 (Lion Lodge from £1,999) for one night plus two days entry to the park, a safari and use of a golf buggy, portlympne.com
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7
SEAL SEASON
Blakeney Point, Norfolk As winter arrives, one of Britain's greatest wildlife spectacles unfolds on the North Norfolk coast. National Trustmanaged Blakeney Point is home to England's largest grey seal colony and around 9,000 pups are born here between the end of October and mid-January each year. Hop aboard a traditional boat from Morston Quay and drift through the beautiful salt marshes for a close-up view of these adorable marine mammals, as well as hundreds of grey and common seals basking on the surrounding sandbanks. Afterwards, retreat to the boutique Blakeney Hotel, overlooking the harbour in the heart of the village. Elegant rooms, an indoor pool, excellent seasonal dining and panoramic estuary views from the restaurant and bar provide a luxurious base for experiencing this remarkable stretch of the Norfolk coast. For more information about Blakeney Point visit nationaltrust.org. uk. Rooms at The Blakeney Hotel start at £418 for two adults sharing a double room on a dinner, bed and breakfast basis. blakeney-hotel.co.uk
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8
BEAVER COUNTRY
Knepp, Sussex Knepp is a pioneering 3,500-acre rewilding project and one of Britain's most remarkable wildlife destinations, where roaming herds of cattle, ponies, pigs and deer shape the land. Since the project began in 2000, endangered species including nightingales, turtle doves, purple emperor butterflies and white storks have returned in remarkable numbers. One of its greatest success stories is the return of the beaver, absent from Britain for more than 400 years before being reintroduced here in 2022. Join Knepp's fascinating Beaver Safari to discover how these remarkable ecosystem engineers have transformed the landscape, creating dams, wetlands and a rich habitat for everything from amphibians and insects to birds and bats. The experience begins with a talk from one of Knepp's expert ecologists before heading into the wild in an all-terrain vehicle to explore the beavers' magical wetland world. Stay overnight in the awardwinning safari-style campsite or one of the characterful treehouses, shepherd's huts, cabins or yurts, before dining at Knepp’s Wilding Kitchen, where delicious pasture-toplate dishes celebrate the estate's own produce. Accommodation at Knepp starts at £315 for a 2-night low-season midweek stay in a shepherd’s hut (camping from £20pp per night), beaver safaris £80pp, knepp.co.uk
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MURMURATION MAGIC
The Orchard, Somerset Every winter, the skies above the Somerset Levels come alive with hundreds of thousands of starlings, twisting and turning in breathtaking formation before dropping into the reedbeds to roost for the night. Known as a murmuration, the spectacular display is one of the natural world's most extraordinary sights, as vast flocks gather for warmth and protection before dusk. The Avalon Marshes are among the very best places in the UK to witness the phenomenon, with enormous flocks arriving from November to February. Once the skies fall quiet, retreat to The Orchard, where imaginatively designed cabins and treehouses are crafted to immerse you in the peace and quiet of the countryside. Set within three acres of wildlife-rich grounds, you'll find squirrels, deer, foxes, badgers and an abundance of birdlife, alongside freestanding stone bathtubs, Finnish-style saunas, outdoor baths and showers, rooftop terraces and crackling firepits. The Orchard starts at £159 per night, canopyandstars.co.uk
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IMAGES: GLASON © RICHARD GASTON, STAG AND RED SQUIRREL © SHUTTERSTOCK/NATURETREK, DOLPHIN © SEAMÔR, LONGLEAT © LLOYD WINTERS, LAPWINGS AT ELMLEY © JIM HIGHAM, SEALS © NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/ ROB COLEMAN, BEAVER © ADOBESTOCK /BRANISLAV CERVEN, WHALE © LEON KIRKBRIDE/ WHITBY COASTAL CRUISES
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WHALE WATCHING
Saltmoore, Yorkshire The Yorkshire coast has become one of the UK's most exciting places to spot whales. Head out into the North Sea aboard one of Whitby Coastal Cruises' distinctive yellow boats, whose specialist whalewatching trips are led by skipper Bryan Clarkson, renowned for his knack for finding whales off the Whitby coast. Depending on what nature has in store, you could encounter minke whales, dolphins, porpoises, seals and an abundance of seabirds, while recent sightings have even included humpback, sei and fin whales. Back on dry land, swap salty sea air for laidback luxury at Saltmoore, a beautiful hotel and wellness retreat set back from the sweeping beach at Sandsend. Spend the evening unwinding in the tranquil spa and feasting on seasonal dishes inspired by the surrounding landscape before waking refreshed for another day exploring the spectacular Yorkshire coastline. Whale watching trips cost £25 (£15 children) whitbycoastalcruises.com. Rooms at Saltmoore start at £300, saltmoore.co.uk
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BritishTravelJournal.com 97
For a chance to win a prize send a picture of your completed crossword, or email a list of the answers; crossword@britishtraveljournal.com
ACROSS
1 Scotland's most northerly Munro (3,4) 5 Castle near the Tongue Hotel (7) 9 Esoteric rabbinical theosophy (6) 10 Roman fort at Chollerford (8) 11 Brass players, mostly (8) 12 Upper legs (6) 13 Pressure providers? (4,6) 15 --- Regis, Dorset resort (4) 16 Jacobean Hall situated in 28 Across (4) 19 Screen shocker (6,4) 22 Helter-Skelter ---, Barham, Kent (6) 24 Scans wet rum on TV (8) 25 Air force unit (8) 26 Canadian dollar coin (6) 27 Sea nymph who imprisoned Odysseus (7) 28 Kentish town with an international station (7)
Our handpicked travel essentials and the seasonal crossword inspired by the British destinations we love. 1 Looking for the perfect antidote to busy modern life? Unwind with the Little Christmas Cottage by Bramley, featuring a 50ml Hand Cream, 30ml Pillow Spray, 100ml Body Lotion and 5cl Travel Candle to nourish skin and calm your space. Priced £36, bramleyproducts.co.uk 2 Planning your next weekend getaway? Stay stylish and prepared on the go with the 72-Hour Backpack in Dark Olive Nylon from Carl Friedrik. Crafted from 100% recycled climate-ready nylon with sleek vertical panel detailing, it features seamless accessibility and an integrated trolley holder for effortless travel. Priced £475, carlfriedrik.com
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2 Issue (7) 3 One who cannot let go? (7) 4 Home to the biodynamic Tillingham Estate (9) 6 Nip in the bud (5) 7 Second hearing (7) 8 Town characterised by wandering peacocks (7) 10 Agreement (11) 14 Heavenfield church (2,7) 17 Largest of the Ryukyus (7) 18 Site of Elmley nature reserve (7) 20 Hockey game's start (4-3) 21 More spirited user lit conflagration (7) 23 Slangy assents (5)
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