25 J anuary – 1 F ebruary 2026
25 J anuary – 1 F ebruary 2026
BRAFA 2026
In 2005, Betty De Stefano founded the Collectors Gallery in Brussels’ Sablon neighbourhood. Housed in a distinctive Brussels-style, 19th century corner townhouse, the gallery exclusively specialises in 20th and 21st century jewellery and wearable artworks by artists and designers.
Booth Design by Glenn Sestig
The 2026 edition will feature works by Giampaolo Babetto, Cleto Munari, Ettore Sottsass, Sophia Vari, and Othmar Zschaler.
The exhibition will also feature rare Scandinavian gold jewellery, presented alongside exceptional Belgian works by Janine Renard and Fernand Demaret, with a particular emphasis on the creations of Claude Wesel.
Trained at the renowned Maredsous School, Claude Wesel benefited from a rigorous technical and artistic education that has profoundly influenced generations of Belgian artists and emerging silversmiths.
@richard Gianorio
After a historic anniversary edition, BRAFA is entering its 71st year as a well-established institution, resolutely looking to the future. The next edition will take place at Brussels Expo from Sunday, January 25th to Sunday, February 1st, 2026. With a rich legacy spanning over seventy years, BRAFA has earned its place amongst the leading events on the European art scene. Under the chairmanship of Klaas Muller, the Fair has maintained its momentum, between tradition with innovation. Bringing together collectors, conservators, curators, designers, decorators and art enthusiasts from all over Europe, BRAFA offers Brussels a prestigious international platform, actively contributing to its cultural and economic influence.
With almost 150 participating galleries from 18 countries, the Fair celebrates diversity, quality and eclecticism. BRAFA, which takes place early in the calendar of art fairs, has established itself as a benchmark for the European market. Last year, it attracted more than 72,000 visitors, a record number that reflects the loyalty and enthusiasm of its curious and discerning audience. BRAFA is more than just a fair - it is a comprehensive cultural experience. A place of discovery, encounters and sharing, where each edition enriches a collective history that is constantly evolving.
SOPHIA VARI
@JULIO PIATTI
Sophia Vari (1940–2013) was born in Athens to a Greek father and a Hungarian mother, and spent her childhood between Greece and Switzerland. She studied art in England and later at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, where her work was shaped by the influences of Cubism and Surrealism.
In 1978, she met Colombian artist Fernando Botero, with whom she shared her life between France, Italy, Colombia, and the United States.
Her artistic practice centered on the dialogue between form and balance, drawing inspiration from Mayan, Egyptian, Olmec, Cycladic, and Baroque traditions. While best known for her bronze sculptures, she also produced collages, paintings, and innovative jewelry pieces she described as “wearable sculptures,” crafted from silver, gold, and ebony.
Her work has been presented worldwide, with over 125 solo exhibitions in major museums, and her monumental sculptures have been installed in cities across the globefrom Paris to New York.
www.sophiavari.com
| .076
SOPHIA VARI (Greece, 1940-2023)
“Meandre” Meandre ring translates the essence of her monumental sculptures into an intimate, smallscale piece.
18ct yellow gold ring 21 g Size 61 1990 1EA (Limited edition of 6 + 2AP) - last available
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .025 SOPHIA
VARI
(Greece, 1940-2023)
“Astarté”
Astarté – Fertility and war goddess of the Near East, her symbols –lions, doves, and moon – reflect a dual nature of love and might.
Silver ring 20 gr
Size 53
Ca 1980’s
4/6 (Limited edition of 6 + 2AP)
Provenance: artist’s studio
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .030
SOPHIA VARI (Greece, 1940-2023)
“Clytia III”
Ebony and yellow gold brooch and pendant 4/6, 53,8 g (gold 11,6 g + wood 42,2 g ) 2013
Silver gilded neckring included
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
SOPHIA VARI (Greece,
1940-2023)
“Théia”
Silver earrings
Limited edition 4/8
57,5 g 2007
Marked: Vari 4/8
Provenance: artist’s studio
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .007 SOPHIA VARI (Greece, 1940-2023)
“Daedalion”
This piece reflects the artist’s collage-inspired approach, featuring a layered composition of abstract forms
Brass Ring 36 g
Open ring (adaptable size) 2019
3/8, (Limited edition of 8 + 2 AP)
Provenance: artist’s studio
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
ITALIAN ARTIST JEWELERS
After 1945, Italy emerged as one of the most vibrant laboratories for artist jewelry, a place where creativity, experimentation, and cultural renewal converged.
In the wake of the war, a new generation of artists, designers, architects, and editors began to reconsider the meaning of the object - its symbolic charge, its relationship to the body, and its ability to serve as a vehicle for artistic expression. Jewelry, freed from its traditional associations with preciousness and status, became an ideal terrain for innovation.
Across the country, visionary creators explored new forms, new materials, and new narratives, while pioneering
editors played a decisive role in bringing these ideas into the public sphere. This dynamic exchange between artists and editors gave rise to an unprecedented movement: jewelry conceived not merely as adornment, but as a microarchitecture, a sculptural fragment, or a conceptual statement.
From the workshops of Milan and Venice to the avant-garde circles of Padua, Italy’s postwar artistic landscape fostered a fertile dialogue between craftsmanship and radical thought. Here, goldsmiths collaborated with architects; designers tested the limits of form; and editors championed bold, experimental visions that challenged all conventions.
This catalogue situates our subject within that rich historical momentum. It celebrates a period in which Italian artist jewelry became a crucible of imagination, and where collaboration—between hands, minds, and disciplines—shaped some of the most influential objects of contemporary design.
Giorgio Facchini is an Italian goldsmith and sculptor, known for his innovative kinetic and sculptural jewels blending art and design.
(Italy, born 1947)
Alberto Zorzi is an internationally renowned Italian goldsmith and designer known for his sculptural, geometric jewelry inspired by constructivism and futurism.
| .4102 ALBERTO ZORZI (Italy, born 1958)
Unique silver necklace 1990
Provenance: artist’s studio
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
BABETTO
Giampaolo Babetto (Italy, born 1947) has been a leading figure in Avant-Garde goldsmithing since the 1960s. A veteran of the Padua School, he has profoundly shaped the art of jewellery in Italy and globally. Known for his versatility, Babetto works across various mediums, including jewellery, silver objects, furniture, and architectural design.
Babetto’s creations draw inspiration from contemporary art movements like minimalism, kinetic art, and pop art, blending these influences with architectural elements such as Palladio’s villas. His jewellery is innovative, often modular or movable, resembling smallscale sculptures or architectural works. Gold is his preferred medium for its warmth
and malleability, which he pairs with unconventional materials like plastic, glass, or enamel. These combinations, enhanced by vibrant pigments and age-old techniques, define the minimalist geometry that characterises the Padua School.
For Babetto, his art balances rational design with impulsive creation. “I am both rational and impulsive,” he says, crafting each piece with precision while embracing spontaneous passion in its execution. The result is minimalist works stripped of decoration, emphasizing form, structure, and emotional impact.
Since 1967, Babetto’s work has been featured in major collections and exhibitions worldwide, including:
• Victoria and Albert Museum, London
• Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
• Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Los Angeles
• Hermitage Museum Foundation, New York
• Museum of Fine Arts, Houston
• Schmuckmuseum, Pforzheim
• National Gallery of Australia, Canberra and more….
@Giustino Chemello - VI
| .4153
GIAMPAOLO BABETTO
(Italy, born 1947)
Babetto’s architectural ring, where audacious gold merges with vibrant green plexi, highlighting its elegantly abstract contours
18ct white gold and light green methacrylate (Plexi glass) ring
22,9 g
Size 50 (other sizes available on order) 2001
Limited edition of 7
Provenance: artist’s studio
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .4154
GIAMPAOLO BABETTO
(Italy, born 1947)
A statement wide-band ring, adorned with a textured matte gold structure that catches the light with every movement
18ct gold ring
25,1 g Size 55 1988
Limited edition of 7
Provenance: artist’s studio
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .4155
GIAMPAOLO BABETTO (Italy, born 1947)
A modern architectural ring in white gold, designed with layered alternating cubes; the inner face is enriched with red pigment, while the outer faces are finished in black niello.
White 18ct gold, red pigment, niello 15,2 g Size 54 1995
Limited edition of 7
Provenance: artist’s studio
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .079
GIAMPAOLO BABETTO
(Italy, born 1947)
An architectural white gold ring crafted from interlocking, cut cubes with a striated finish, typical of Master Babetto’s signature style.
18ct white gold
18,8 g Size 54 1995
Limited edition of 7 Provenance: artist’s studio
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
GIAMPAOLO BABETTO
(Italy, born 1947)
18ct yellow gold brooch and pendant 2025
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
18ct white gold and pigment necklace 1998
Limited edition of 7 Provenance: artist’s studio
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .4159
(Italy, born 1947)
18ct gold and ebony bracelet
Total weight 129,2 g
1977
GIAMPAOLO BABETTO
(Italy, born 1947)
18ct yellow gold and pigment earrings 2019
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
GIAMPAOLO BABETTO
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
CLETO MUNARI
Cleto Munari: The Alchemist of Forms - Creator and Editor
Cleto Munari (Italy, born 1930). A singular figure in contemporary design, Cleto Munari has established himself as one of those rare creators capable of transforming imagination into iconic objects. More than a designer, he is a catalyst: a free spirit who crosses disciplines, brings talents together, and gives life to works where boldness, irony, and poetry meet. His talent lies not only in his ability to conceive objects, but in his gift for creating dialogues - dialogues between materials, between tradition and experimentation, and above all, between creators.
Munari built his universe through collaborations with some of the most influential artists and architects of the 20th and early 21st centuries. Among them, Ettore Sottsass holds a central place. Their intellectual and aesthetic rapport, born in the 1970s, produced objects that have become emblematic. Sottsass - with his radical, geometric, and vibrant language - found in Munari a passionate interpreter. Together, they demonstrated that an object can transcend its function and become a visual and emotional experience, almost a narrative.
These successive collaborations - whether with Sottsass, Mimmo Paladino, Alessandro Mendini, Meret Oppenheim, and many others -
shaped the “Munari style”: a design that fully embraces its artistic dimension, claims the luxury of originality, and sees in every creation a fragment of culture. This chapter of our catalogue pays homage to that collective spirit, to that vision in which design becomes a shared adventure. It celebrates Cleto Munari not only as a creator, but as the conductor of a plural imagination, capable of transforming a simple object into a work of contemporary art.
Cleto Munari, Carlo Scarpa and Ettore Sottsass
| .154 CLETO
(Italy, born 1930)
“Mirò 1”
Gilded silver ring
With a sunburst design featuring a arched lapis lazuli element and brilliant-cut zirconia
22.6 g Size 58 2022
Prototype (certificate)
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
MUNARI
(Italy, born 1930)
“Centro della Vita”
Gilded silver ring
Circular in shape with a red coral paste sphere in the centre
20.2 g
Size 59 2015
Prototype (certificate)
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .155
CLETO MUNARI
CLETO MUNARI
(Italy, born 1930)
“Sonagli”
Gilded silver ring
Cylindrical in shape with movable ring
39.4 g
Size 58
2018
Signed and stamped
Prototype (certificate)
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
“Origami” Ring
Satin-finish bronze with geometric pattern
28.7 g
8.00 cm x 5.50 cm
Size 54,5
2016
Prototype (certificate)
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
Gilded silver ring Circular in shape with geometric elements in onyx and white agate
Prototype (certificate)
Information and price on request:
| .163
CLETO MUNARI (Italy, born 1930)
“Amore Nascosto”
Gilded silver ring
Cage with oval cabochon in rock crystal and written “LOVE” in red enamel
26.3 g
Size 56
2020 Prototype (certificate)
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
CLETO MUNARI
(Italy, born 1930)
“Hula Hoop”
A kinetic silver gilded ring
The ring of diamond cut zirconium turns around the central axis, recalling childhood games
9,3 g
Size 56/57 2020 Prototype (certificate)
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
“Girovagando”
Gilded silver ring
Square cage containing black sphere
13.8 g
Size 50
2015
Prototype - (This ring has never been issued) - certificate
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .164
CLETO MUNARI (Italy, born 1930)
CLETO MUNARI
(Italy, born 1930)
“Autunno”
Gilded silver bangle leaf-cage, snap-open
83.5 g
Internal diameter 6.00 cm
Length 6.00 cm
2012
Prototype (certificate)
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .146
CLETO MUNARI
(Italy, born 1930)
“Vitruvio”
Gilded sIlver ring
Circular in shape with a Vitruvian Man on a lapis lazuli base, coral paste and brilliant-cut zirconia.
41.7 g
Size 54
2010
Prototype (certificate)
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
(Italy, born 1930)
“Parco Giochi TRE”
Gilded sIlver ring with coral paste cylinders
34.8 g
Size 54
2010
Prototype (certificate)
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
MUNARI
| .149
CLETO MUNARI (Italy, born 1930)
“Empire State Building” Gilded sIlver ring
With a cylindrical element in rock crystal on a red background and spheres with brilliant-cut zirconia.
52.2 g
Size 57
2010
Prototype (certificate)
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
Cleto Munari in dialogue with ETTORE SOTTSASS
Ettore Sottsass (1917–2007) was a pioneering Italian architect and designer, celebrated for his bold use of color, geometric forms, and a playful approach that challenged conventional design norms. In the early 1980s, he collaborated with fellow Italian designer Cleto Munari to create a groundbreaking jewelry collection that merged architectural concepts with wearable art.
Their partnership began in 1972 and blossomed into a long collaboration, resulting in limited-edition pieces that redefined jewelry design.
©Giuseppe Pino (Mondadori Publishers)
70.4 g Size 61 1983 Prototype (This ring has never been issued) - Certificate
Edited by CLETO MUNARI
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
Gilded silver ring
Circular in shape with geometric onyx elements
50.2 g
Size 57.5
Edited
CLETO MUNARI
| .153
SOTTSASS (Italy, 1917-2007)
“Rome & You”
Unique gilded silver ring
Circular in shape with architectural elements, signed and stamped.
45.1 g
Size 54 1984
Prototype (This ring has never been issued) - Certificate
Edited by CLETO MUNARI
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .4115 ETTORE SOTTSASS (Italy, 1917-2007)
Large 18ct gold ring, long rectangular gold table on which is set a black onyx disc, a small bar set with diamonds. Size 61 37,9 g 1984-86
Edited by CLETO MUNARI Edition of 9
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .4164 ETTORE SOTTSASS (Italy, 1917-2007)
“Valentina” Named after the artist Valentina Aversano, Cleto Munari’s wife
18 ct yellow & white gold and amethyst ring
29,7 g
Size 56 1984
Edited by CLETO MUNARI in limited edition of 9
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
ALESSANDRO MENDINI
Alessandro Mendini (1931–2019) was an influential Italian architect, designer, and theorist, best known for blending radical experimentation with historical references and playful ornamentation. A key figure in postmodern design, he was associated with movements such as Radical Design, Alchimia, and Memphis. Mendini served as editor of Casabella, Modo, and Domus, and his iconic workslike the Proust Chair - challenged modernist functionalism by celebrating irony, color, and emotion in design.
LUIGI MAINOLFI
Luigi Mainolfi (Italy, born 1948 ) is an Italian sculptor known for his innovative use of natural and “poor” materials such as terracotta, plaster, wood, and bronze. Initially exploring body and gesture through performance-oriented works, he later developed a sculptural language blending organic forms with archetypal imagery. Mainolfi has exhibited internationally, including at the Venice Biennale and Documenta, and his works are held in major public collections worldwide.
| .162
LUIGI MAINOLFI
(Italy, born 1948)
“Albero della Vita”
(The tree: a symbol of life)
Gilded silver ring
Stylised tree with faceted rounded in shape
22 g
Size 57
2017
Prototype (certificate)
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
BELGIAN ARTIST JEWELERS
Since the 1960s, Belgium has established itself as a remarkable hub of creativity in contemporary jewelry. Drawing inspiration from art, design, and the cultural movements of their time, Belgian designers have redefined the codes of jewelry, experimenting boldly with materials, forms, and techniques.
This catalog celebrates that artistic richness by showcasing a selection of pieces by artists and craftsmen who have helped position Belgium as a key player in modern jewelry. Combining daring innovation with refined aesthetics, each creation tells a unique story, reflecting the inventive spirit and high standards of Belgian jewelry after 1960.
J ANINE RENARD
Janine Renard was born in Belgium in 1947. During the ten years (1970–1980) she spent working at the renowned Maison Wolfers in Brussels, Janine Renard developed a sense of precision and an exceptional mastery of jewelry-making and goldsmithing.
For her, a piece of jewelry is a sculpture meant to be worn - and thus admired from every angle.
In 1980, she became an independent designer. Full of inventive imagination and artistic genius, she earned numerous awards in Belgium and abroad, including the prestigious De Beers Grand Prize in 1989 - the diamond world’s equivalent of an Oscar.
Like a painter or sculptor, she exhibits her creations around the globe (Europe, the United States, Australia, Canada, Japan), drawing inspiration from the depths of history and pursuing, with great sensitivity, an exploration of the most captivating materials.
D.L.
| .3057 JANINE RENARD (Belgium, born 1947)
“Trame” 18ct gold, silver and labradorite ring Size 57 (ring can be resized) 13,6 g 2012 Unique piece Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
JANINE RENARD (Belgium, born 1947)
18ct gold (yellow and grey) Moonstone, diamond
Size 55 (ring can be resized)
26,9 g
2006 Unique Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
DIDIER COGELS
(Belgium, born 1943) is a Belgian contemporary jewelry artist trained at the École des Métiers d’Art de Maredsous. Known for his bijoux d’auteur, he works with precious metals and mixed materials, creating unique pieces that blur the boundary between jewelry and sculpture.
| .060
DIDIER COGELS
(Belgium, born 1943)
18K yellow gold ring setting with an olivine of approximately 3.78 ct.
1986
Unique piece
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .2072 ANDRÉ LAMY (Belgium, 1935-1975)
18 ct gold and pearls ring
7 g Size 56 1970’
Provenance: artist’s family
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
ANDRE LAMY
André Lamy (Belgium, 1935-1975) studied at Maredsous Abbey and created modern abstract jewelry that inspired Fernand Demaret. Their 1961 collaboration marked an early commercial opening for modern Belgian jewelry. He died prematurely in 1975.
EMILE SOUPLY
Emile Souply (Belgium 1933–2013) was a celebrated Belgian jeweller, silversmith, sculptor and designer,. Trained in orfèvrerie and metalwork at the École de Métiers d’Art de Maredsous, he became known for his innovative jewellery and metalwork that blended artistic vision with technical mastery. Souply created modernist and sculptural jewellery in silver and other materials, contributing significantly to Belgian contemporary jewellery art. He also worked across sculpture, furniture and architectural metal elements, and taught jewellery and metalwork at the Institut des Arts et Métiers in Brussels from 1976 until 1998. His work has been exhibited widely and remains influential in Belgian art and design.
©Thierry Demaret
FERNAND DEMARET
Fernand Demaret (Belgium, 1929 - 2013) was a Belgian goldsmith based in Brussels. He is considered one of the pioneers in modern jewellery art.
His wife Madame Liliane Nathalie Mosselmans introduced him to her friend André Lamy, a former student of the “Ecole des Métiers d’Art de Maredsous” who was creating beautiful modern abstract jewellery which inspired Fernand Demaret to turn to his style.
In 1961 the Demaret opened an artist jewelry rue du Bailli in Brussels and hired great artists jewellers.
In 1962 Claude Wesel join the workshop, and later Michel Louwette and Bernard François.
They form the “Demaret workshop - Groupe Atelier Demaret”, which, for ten years, allows young artists to experiment their creativity with precious materials. Their association was the first real opening in Belgium to the commercial sector to modern jewellery. By using the lost wax technique, they were able to combine different elements into an abstraction while still creating a baroque style.
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium 1942-2014)
18ct gold Articulated abstract bio-mechanical bracelet
Length 16,5 cm.
+/- 57 g Ca 1965-68
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
Artist-jeweller : Claude Wesel (Belgium 1942-2014)
Masterpiece
18 ct gold and coral cuff bracelet
120 g Ca 1965
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium, 1942-2014)
| .021
FERNAND DEMARET STUDIO
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium, 1942-2014)
18ct yellow gold cuff bracelet
Model #3151
86,10 g
1969
Marked: DEMARET 0750 Maker’s mark
|
.013
FERNAND DEMARET STUDIO
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium 1942-2014)
18ct gold brooch and pendant featuring a design of a figure seen from behind.
18,8 g 3,8 x 4,3 cm Ca 1965-68
Marked DEMARET - Maker’s mark - 0750
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium, 1942-2014)
18ct gold, pearl, tourmaline, diamond brooch / pendant 14,2 x 2,6 cm
37,2 g 1970’s
Marked: Demaret
Published: Belgian Modernist Jewellery. Ed Collectors Gallery p 28
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .4220 FERNAND DEMARET STUDIO
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium 1942-2014)
Abstract 18ct gold, garnet and pearl brooch and pendant designed 30,2 g 5 x 5 cm Ca 1965-68
Marked: Demaret- gold stampMaker’s mark
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .2001 FERNAND DEMARET STUDIO
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium 1942-2014)
An 18k gold pendant, set with a fancy-cut opal, holding a baroque cultured pearl. Signed, hallmarked 8.5 cm - H 3 3/8 in 33.9 g Ca 1970’
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .001
FERNAND DEMARET STUDIO
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium, 1942-2014)
Yellow Gold 18ct and large opal doublet pendant (ALGT certificate)
9,7 x 4,2 cm - 51 g
Ca 1964-65’s
Marked: DEMARET- 0750- Maker’s mark
Gilded silver neckring included
Published: Belgian Modernist Jewellery. Ed Collectors Gallery p 47
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .014
FERNAND DEMARET STUDIO
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium, 1942-2014)
A gold and diamond (0,55ct) abstract brooch and pendant
Dimensions 6,5 x 4 cm
36,3 g
Ca 1967
Marked: Demaret- gold stamp - Maker’s mark
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .003 FERNAND DEMARET STUDIO
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium, 1942-2014)
18ct gold brooch and pendant with brilliant cut diamond
34 g
Ca 1965-68
18ct gold neckring included
Marked: demaret - 750 - Maker’s marks
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .012 FERNAND DEMARET
STUDIO
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium, 1942-2014)
18ct yellow gold and corals 36 g
Dim H 12,2 cm (4,8 inches) Ca 1965-68
Markings: artist’s stamp18ct gold tested/ no stamp
Neck ring (optional)
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .4203
FERNAND DEMARET STUDIO
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium, 1942-2014)
18 ct gold and cultured pearl necklace
99,2 g
44 x 2,7 cm
Ca 1970
Unique piece
Marked: Demaret - 750 - Piece Unique
Provenance: Claude Wesel’s estate
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium 1942-2014)
“Clou” (Nail) pendant
Inspired by the iconography of African nail fetish sculptures A unique 18ct gold and prehnite cabochon (also called Jade citron)
75,11 g Ca 1965
18ct gold neckring included Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
Masterpiece
| .4188
FERNAND DEMARET STUDIO
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium 1942-2014)
18ct gold and diamond chocker necklace
Diamond (+/-1,2 carats) brillant cut
40,8 g Ca 1967
Marked: Demaret- gold stampMaker’s mark
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .036 FERNAND DEMARET STUDIO
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium 1942-2014)
Bio-mecanic 18ct gold, pearls and diamond
Very early work by Claude Wesel 39 g Ca 1963
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .019 FERNAND DEMARET STUDIO
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium, 1942-2014)
Pendant 18 ct gold and 2 cultured baroque pearls
6 x 5 cm
44,8 g Ca 1965
Marked: maker’s mark - 750 Pendant only (sold without chain)
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .004 FERNAND DEMARET STUDIO
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium 1942-2014)
Abstract bio-mechanical necklace
18ct gold and cultured pearls with removable pendant L 44 cm - Pendant : 5;8 cm x 1,8 cm
Pendant’s weight : 16,3 g - Total weight : 63,5 g Ca 1965
Marked: Demaret- gold stamp - Maker’s mark
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
15 g
3,7 x 1,5 cm
Size 56 Ca 1965
| .008 FERNAND DEMARET STUDIO
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium, 1942-2014)
18ct gold, ring Engraved and faceted amethyst
3 cultured pearls and 2 garnets
17,6 g
Size 53
Ca 1965
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .4217
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium, 1942-2014)
A 18 ct gold and “Mabe” pearl ring
0,01 diamond Size 52 13,5 g Ca 1965
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium 1942-2014)
18ct gold and coral earrings
32,6 g
59,7 cm Ca 1965
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .090 FERNAND DEMARET STUDIO
Artist-jeweller: Claude Wesel (Belgium, 1942-2014)
“Bambou” earrings 20 g
Ca 1965
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
CLAUDE WESEL
Claude Wesel (Belgium, 1942 - 2014) studied at Maredsous Abbey School and in Brussels’ La Cambre visual arts school. He is one of the spearheads of contemporary Belgian jewellery creation. Claude Wesel forged an original artistic vocabulary by using a biomechanical style that often triggers emotions linked to collective or personal memories. Several pieces of the artist can be found in prestigious institutions such as Pforzheim’s Schmuckmuseum, the Communauté française des arts plastiques, Antwerp’s Diamond Museum, and Houston’s Museum of Fine Arts (MFAH).
coral
Posthumous production by rights’ holders
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CLAUDE WESEL (Belgium, 1942-2014)
“ π “ collection
18ct gold articulated pendant
9 x 3,8 cm
48,9 g 1974
18ct gold neckring included
Marked : 25-3-74 12- π - 5 - 750 - Artist’s mark - Wesel
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .4209 CLAUDE WESEL (Belgium, 1942-2014)
“Clarinette”
White gold, baroque pearl and diamond pendant 15,7 g Ca 1970’
Silver chain included
Unsigned but identified in Claude Wesel ‘s archives
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
CLAUDE WESEL (Belgium, 1942-2014)
“Maya” pendant
Abstract Bio-mechanical design.
A large and impressive coral necklace articulated with a 18ct gold pendant.
Model #6953
Pendant +/- 15,5 cm x 1,5 cm
Total weight 125 g
Designed in 2006
Marked: WESEL -W-750- artist stamp
Posthumous production by rights’ holders
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .4200 CLAUDE WESEL (Belgium, 1942-2014)
Two-strand baroque pearl necklace with a yellow gold clasp set with a brilliant-cut diamond of approximately 0.10 carat
Height of the pendant 6.8 cm
Gross weight approx 57 g
Model #5644 1993
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .4201
CLAUDE WESEL (Belgium, 1942-2014)
18ct gold modernist brooch with pearl Length 7,5 cm +/- 9 g Ca 1980’
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
18ct gold articulated earrings Model #3899
8,3 g 1982
| .057 CLAUDE WESEL (Belgium, 1942-2014)
18K gold ring set with a baroque pearl (D approx. 10.9mm) enhanced with a diamond (approx. 0.1ct) Size 51 (ring can be resized) 9.2 g Ca 1970’
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .962 CLAUDE WESEL (Belgium, 1942-2014)
“Disque” 18ct yellow gold, silver ring Model # 6823 Size 54 20 g 2002
Posthumous production by rights’ holders
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .112
CLAUDE WESEL
(Belgium, 1942-2014)
“Japanese” collection
Prototype silver ring Model # 6875 11 g
Size 54 (ring can be resized) 2005
Provenance: Claude Wesel’s estate
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .044 CLAUDE WESEL (Belgium, 1942-2014)
18 ct gold and pearl modernist ring Model # 7184
9,7 g
Size 51 (ring can be resized) 2008
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .4187 CLAUDE WESEL (Belgium, 1942-2014)
“FAB”
Ring designed for his daughter Fabienne 18ct gold and silver Model # 7092
20,6 g
Size 56 (ring can be resized) 2007
Posthumous production by rights’ holders
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SCANDINAVIAN ARTIST JEWELERS
The 1960s and 1970s marked a golden age for Scandinavian jewelry, defined by bold design and uncompromising craftsmanship. Artists from Denmark, Sweden, Finland, and Norway broke away from traditional ornament, embracing clean lines, organic forms, and innovative materials. Silver became the signature medium, sculpted into strikingly modern yet wearable art. This era cemented Scandinavia’s reputation as a leader in avant-garde design, influencing contemporary jewelry worldwide.
VIVIANNA TORUN BÜLOW-HÜBE
Vivianna Torun (Sweden, 1927–2004) grew up in a creative family in Malmö and began making jewellery as a teenager. She studied at Stockholm’s Konstfackskolan and pioneered “anti-status jewellery,” crafting minimalist silver pieces with crystals and stones.
In 1948, she traveled to Paris and Cannes, meeting artists like Picasso, Braque, and Matisse. She later opened her own studio, becoming Sweden’s first female silversmith with her own workshop. Notable works include the 1959 Mobius necklace, hailed as a milestone in modern jewellery, and a stainless steel wristwatch that launched her collaboration with Georg Jensen in 1967.
Torun drew inspiration from natural forms, shaping metals to flow like water, and favored semi-precious stones over valuables. Her work was worn by icons such as Billie Holiday, Ingrid Bergman, Brigitte Bardot, and Pablo Picasso. Her pieces are held in major museums including MoMA (New York), the Swedish National Museum, and the Louvre (Paris).
GEORG JENSEN
Georg Jensen (Denmark, 1866–1935) is a legendary Danish design house, internationally celebrated for its exceptional craftsmanship in silverware. Founded in 1904 in Copenhagen by silversmith Georg Jensen, the brand quickly became synonymous with elegant Scandinavian design. Over the years, it has collaborated with a wide range of visionary designers, continually evolving its aesthetic while staying rooted in its artisanal heritage. Today, Georg Jensen offers a diverse collection of jewellery, blending timeless sophistication with contemporary innovation.
Björn Weckström (Finland, Born 1935) is the most internationally renowned Finnish jewelry designer. Together with Pekka Anttila, founder of Lapponia, he created the brand’s distinctive sculptural design language. Always ahead of his time, Weckström treats jewelry as miniature sculpture, aiming to elevate it to the status of modern art. His silver pieces reflect Finland’s snowy landscapes through a dramatic interplay of mirror-clear and matte surfaces, while his bold use of unconventional materials, such as acrylic, broke new ground in jewelry design. In the early 1960s, he introduced gold collections inspired by Lapland’s natural gold nuggets, characterized by organic forms and softly shimmering matte gold. Since Lapponia Jewelry was acquired by Kalevala Koru in 2005, Weckström’s iconic designs have continued to be crafted in Helsinki, ensuring that his six-decade design legacy lives on within the Kalevala Jewelry collection.
@ann Westin
(Sweden 1917-2004)
Extemely rare chocker
Silver and egyptian ceramics
From artist’s workshop
Ca 1955
Marked: Torun - artist stamp - french stamp
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
(Sweden 1917-2004)
18K gold necklace with fossilized coral Made in her own workshop Jakarta Indonesia Inner diameter ca 14.5 cm 25 g Ca 1978
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“Fibula” Silver and moonstone brooch With Torun’s handwritten note “First GJ pin 1968”
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Designed by Astrid Fog (Denmark, 1911-1993) for Georg jensen
Silver and onyx cabochons ring Model # 166
Size 52.5
Ca 1960’s
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| .123 GEORG JENSEN
Designed by Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe (Sweden, 1927-2004)
18ct gold and moonstone drop Size 51 Ca 1970’
Provenance: Private collection of the artist, certificate of authenticity from the family.
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
(Finland, Born 1935)
18ct gold articulates bracelet Dim 16 cm X 3 cm
72,84 g 1974
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(Finland, Born 1935)
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
14ct gold abstract bracelet
1,3 cm x 1,9 cm
Length 18,5 cm
61 g 1978
| .4020
TAPIO WIRKKALA (Finland
1915 -1985)
“Aurinko” (Sun)
Rare kinetic brooch
18K gold with diamonds. Finland
In the form of a stylized sun with moving rays
Set with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds, approx. 0.95 ctw. Ø approx. 60 mm
Weight approx. 24.5 g
Designed in 1981
Finnish Stamp. Swedish import stamps. Made to order. Ref: Eye, Hand and Thought, Tapio Wirkkala, year 2000, page 372
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
“Nutidssmycken”, Nationalmuseum Stockholm 1959
“The International Exhibition of Modern Jewellery”, Goldsmiths Hall London 1961
“Form fantasi”, Liljevalchs konsthall, Stockholm 1964
Britt “Ibe” Dahlquist (Sweden, 1924–1996) was a renowned Swedish silversmith and modernist jewellery designer. Born Inga-Britt Dahlquist on the island of Gotland, she studied at the Swedish School of Arts, Crafts and Design in Stockholm before establishing her own workshop in Visby, where she worked closely with fellow silversmith Olov Barve. Dahlquist gained recognition in the 1950s for her organic, nature-inspired silver jewellery often incorporating local fossils and stones, and later designed sleek modernist pieces for Georg Jensen from 1965 onward. Her work has been exhibited in major shows and is held in collections such as the Nationalmuseum in Stockholm and the British Museum in London.
| .1085
BRITT IBE DAHLQUIST (Sweden, 1924–1996)
Necklace in silver, partly bronzed, pendant
Circa 90 X 80 mm, inner diameter ca 12.5 cm
Total weight 135 g
Stamped SMY, Malmö 1965 and signed Ibe Dahlquist.
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
BENT GABRIELSEN
Bent Gabrielsen (Sweden, 1928–2014)
Qualified as a goldsmith in 1949 after serving his apprenticeship with the goldsmith Ejler Fangel in Copenhagen. Gabrielsen was among the first group of students at the Goldsmith’s Academy from where he graduated with top grades in 1953.
He was immediately hired by the Hans Hansen Solvsmedie and worked there until 1969. By the time he left he was responsible for the firm’s entire production.
After leaving the Hans Hansen company, Gabrielsen set up his own workshop called “Gabrielsen’s Guldsmedie”. He kept his business small with he and his wife the only employees.
Bent Gabrielsen won the Lunning Prize in 1964.
Rey Urban (Sweden, 1929–2015) was a Swedish jeweller and silversmith known for his modernist, geometric designs and masterful craftsmanship. He trained at Konstfack in Stockholm, founded his own workshop, and became a leading figure in Scandinavian contemporary jewellery.
| .139
REY URBAN
(Sweden, 1929–2015)
18K yellow gold ring set
With a faceted amethyst
Approx. 15 g
Size 54
Signed RU - Stockholm 1969
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .052
BENT KNUDSEN (Denmark, 1924-1997)
A 14ct gold and amethyst earrings
Ca 1970
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .054 BENT KNUDSEN (Denmark, 1924-1997)
14ct gold and amethysts 18 cm - 56.5 g
Ca 1970’
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
20TH & 21ST CENTURIES
FAVORITIES & FINDS
JEAN VENDOME
Jean Vendome (Ohan Tuhdarian, 1930–2017) was a FrenchArmenian jeweller and a pioneer of contemporary art jewellery, whose work elevated jewellery into sculptural art over a career spanning more than six decades.
Born in Lyon, he began his apprenticeship at just 13 in his uncle’s Parisian workshop. By 18, he had opened his own atelier in Paris, pursuing studies in gemology and drawing while cultivating a profound appreciation for natural minerals and unconventional materials.
Vendome was among the first jewellers to break away from traditional decorative motifs, favoring abstract, sculptural forms and inventive combinations of raw stones with gold and other precious materials. His debut collection, Pépite(1950), heralded the start of his transformative influence on modern jewellery design.
Jean Vendome at the opening of his exhibition at Demaret Jewelry in Brussels
18ct gold, topaz and aquamarine stones Size 53 9.9 g
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
Othmar Zschaler (Swiss 19302023) was a renowned Swiss artist and jeweler, celebrated for his avant-garde “abstract jewels.” His work features geometric shapes, clean lines, and bold forms, often resembling miniature sculptures rather than traditional jewelry.
Born into a family of artisans in Switzerland, he trained with master goldsmiths and at a prestigious design school before founding his own atelier. Zschaler became known for blending traditional techniques with contemporary aesthetics, earning critical acclaim and a devoted clientele.
Passionate about mentorship, he leads workshops for aspiring goldsmiths. Inspired by nature, hiking, photography, and Swiss culture, his creations are held in private collections and museums worldwide, including The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, and the Schmuckmuseum in Pforzheim.
.027 OTHMAR ZSCHALER (Swiss, 1930-2023)
18ct yellow gold set with rectangular lapis lazuli plates
97.16 g
Inner diameter 6 cm 1968
Signed Othmar Zschaler - stamped 750 - maker’s mark
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
| .2100 OTHMAR ZSCHALER (Swiss 1930-2023)
Silver, 18ct gold & Lapis Lazuli
Modernist bracelet 107.5 g Ca 1970’
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
Ute Decker (b. 1969, Germany) is a London-based artist-jeweller renowned for her minimalist yet bold sculptural jewellery. Her innovative method of sculpting, bending, and twisting gold and silver to create powerful and expressive threedimensional “geometric poetry” has garnered international acclaim.
| .141 UTE DECKER (Germany, born 1969)
“Infinity Spiral”
Large sculptural ring 18ct Fairtrade Gold Size: small to medium 2020
Limited edition of 6, individually sculpted, unique within the series (#6/6)
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
Jean Desprès was a pioneering French goldsmith and jeweler, known for his elegant Art Deco designs that combined modernist geometry with refined craftsmanship. His work is celebrated for its balance of artistic innovation and technical mastery.
| .2164
JEAN DESPRÈS
(France, 1889-1980)
Modernist, partially oxidized silver ring with yellow gold.
21.8 g
Size 52
Ca 1970
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
18ct gold and diamond brooch and pendant 5.5 x 6 cm
Marked: 0750 - Reiling
Published in Reinhold Relling Goldschmied published by Schmuckmuseum Pforzhein 1982
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
OLGA MARÍA PIRIA
| .4108
MARIA PIRIA (1927-2015)
Unique constructiviste necklace Silver, 18ct gold and citrines
45 cm
Pendant 10 x 4.5 cm
48.6 g
Signé JP (Carlos Jaureguy et Olga Piria)
Information and price on request: info@collectors-gallery.com
Olga Maria Piria (1927–2015) was a Uruguayan artist celebrated for her work in painting, jewelry design, and music. A student of Joaquín Torres García, she was largely selftaught in orfebrería (decorative goldwork) and gained recognition from the late 1950s for her innovative jewelry, often created in collaboration with her husband, Carlos Jaureguay. In addition to her visual arts, she taught piano and pursued musical studies. Over her career, Piria exhibited in more than 150 shows in Uruguay and abroad, with her works held in both public and private collections.
