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LOCAL FORECASTS PHOTO CREDIT: DELPH FISHING CHARTERS WWW.DELPHFISHING.COM / IG: @DELPHFISHING VOLUME 26 • ISSUE 319

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STREAMERS FOR

FALL TROPHY

BROWNS

By Jacob Milholland

ctober is a special month in the mountains. Autumn colors and cooler weather signal it’s time to head back to trout water. Hunting a trophy brown trout is what fall is all about. These fish can be caught nymphing a big stonefly or drifting an October caddis, but the old adage, “big bait, big fish,” holds true. Streamer fishing is a surefire way to try and target these old brutes. Streamers are flies that imitate forage such as baitfish, crawfish, sculpin, other trout or even mice. While the common way to fish a streamer is to enact action by “stripping” or pulling the fly line, streamers can be dead drifted, jigged or swung. There is no wrong way to fish streamers, but the goal is to make the fly look like the real thing. Equipment: We fish heavier rods, tippets and leaders, as we are targeting larger fish. The flies are more wind resistant or heavily weighted, and the strikes can be more aggressive. Think 5 to 8 weights and 8 to 20-pound fluorocarbon tippet/leader. A misconception of streamer fishing is that it must be done from a boat on a large river. While a boat is nice for covering ground, wading anglers can adapt these tactics to any size body of water. If you have the option to fish from a boat, multiple rods with different rate-of-fall (ROF) sinking fly lines should be in your arsenal to probe different depths: floating, intermediate (falls at one foot per second), and ROF-6 (falls at six inches per second). Fly Selection: Ask anyone what they throw, and you’ll get a different answer. It’s hard to go wrong with Woolly Bugger variations—like Sparkle Minnows or Bow River Buggers—any Kelly Galloup pattern or Clouser minnows to start out. Pick staple colors that allow you to adjust to conditions: white, black, bold (yellow or chartreuse) and flashy. Big fish drop their guard in nasty weather, and these can result in the best days on the water. Tactics: Brown trout ambush their prey, so look for places adjacent to current where fish can sit without expending too much energy. Covering water is paramount to success with a streamer. Likely holding water can produce results immediately, so don’t spend too much time in one spot. You are hunting the largest fish willing to eat the fly, not trying to force inactive fish to feed. Vary your retrieve; sometimes jigging or dead drifting can be better than a strip, or slower or faster retrieves may get a fish to react. Mental fortitude is just as important as the where and how. You can go hours or even days without seeing a fish follow the fly, but the magic of streamer fishing lies in the take of the fly and the caliber of fish. Jacob Milholland fishes with Cohutta Fishing Company in Blue Ridge, Ga. Check them out at www.cohuttafishingco.com or call (706) 946-3044.

4 NATIONAL

OCTOBER 2021

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ind your way into the future with the Retrax eyewear retainer from BBT Innovations. Retrax solves an age-old problem with eyewear retainers. Whether you’re wearing them on your eyes or around your neck, Retrax automatically secures your glasses securely and comfortably with no plastic tabs to tighten or push buttons to fuss with. Just give it a tug, and Retrax will do the rest! Retrax is not much bigger than a dime in circumference, and the cable is an amazing 21.5 inches long when fully extended. The Retrax is constructed of stainless steel coated wire with a smooth coating that will not irritate the skin. It’s corrosion resistant and saltwater friendly. Retrax is designed for people on the go or just reading a book. Retrax keeps your eyewear snug to the back of your head, where the spine meets the skull. For your favorite motorcycle ride, boat ride or sitting in your chair, the Retrax is for you. www.bbtinnovations.com Get out there and get you some!

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By Capt. Quinlyn Haddon

t seems even the most remote waterways are becoming more crowded every year. More boats can lead to some extremely dangerous situations when boaters exhibit a lack of respect for the water, and it’s pretty easy to identify those who should not be allowed to operate a boat. But there are also people who create frustrating situations, particularly while fishing, who might just be unaware of certain etiquette. It is unique to the Southeastern United States to have access to such vastly diverse fisheries within a relatively small area. It is fortunate boat owners can easily travel to a new and different fishery and bring their own vessel with them. However, just as you don’t have to travel far before the fishery changes, the same applies to local fishing etiquette. Some of the unspoken rules will apply no matter where you are, but it is generally a good idea to check in with local knowledge and identify the local vhf channel before launching your boat somewhere new. While nobody owns the water, commercial and charter fishing captains generally operate with respect for each other to make sharing the fishery feasible and pleasant. When pleasure boaters don’t understand or don’t respect local etiquette, it disrupts fishing enough to affect the people who are trying to make a living on the water. As a general rule, try to stay away from other boats as much as possible. If you have to maneuver around or fish near another boat, be respectful of the type of fishing they are doing. If a vessel is anchored, they will generally be fishing off the back of the boat, often running a chum slick, which means you should avoid driving behind them. If a boat is anchored

offshore, in an area that you are unfamiliar with, they are probably fishing coordinates that took them years of hard work to acquire. You should absolutely not anchor near them,

nor should you drive next to them to mark their location. If you are offshore hunting for fish that appear under flocks of diving birds, look for a flock that isn’t currently being worked by another fisherman. These birds are moving around over fish that are traveling, and moving in can cause the boat that got to the birds first to be cut off from the school of fish. The ocean is vast and birds are plentiful, look for birds on your own, not just an easy-to-spot boat under birds. Overcrowded fishing areas, that don’t operate under anchor, follow certain traffic patterns. These patterned drifts or trolls should be observed and followed just like any roadway. The Marathon Humps, for example, should be trolled east to west, and west to east. Fishing oil rigs in the northern Gulf of Mexico can be made extremely difficult by poor etiquette, as locations are limited and can be made even more limited due to weather. Places like this rely heavily on unspoken rules of the road, and respect. These areas are primarily fished in two different ways: live bait and chum drifts. Charter boats take the time to catch live bait before making it out there, which can be time consuming and difficult. If there are fish on the surface, and someone nearby starts a chum drift, this pushes the surface fish down deep, where the fish will no longer be eating the hard-earned live bait. This is horrible etiquette that rewards lazy and ignorant fishermen. If you show up to a rig without live bait and see other boats using it, with fish clearly on the surface, you should probably just troll lures until other people start a chum drift. Learn and respect the local etiquette anywhere you get your boat wet. There’s no reason we can’t all catch fish, be safe and have fun doing it.

Capt. Quinlyn Haddon fishes with Blue Magic Charters in Marathon, Florida Keys. Check her out at CaptainQuinlyn.com, @captainquinlyn or call (504) 920-6342.

able is cted of e skin.

re the sitting

COASTALANGLERMAG.COM • THEANGLERMAG.COM

OCTOBER 2021

NATIONAL 7

WHEN TEMPS COOL DOWN, THE GROUPER BITE HEATS UP

’m going to date myself here, but what is about to happen will come as no surprise to me. This is time of year I live for. You see, I’ve been watching this beautiful cycle happen with grouper for almost four decades now. As soon as the mullet run slows, and the vast schools of cigar minnows (cigs) and sardines drift inshore, so do the larger (male) gag grouper. This generally occurs around the middle of October. The scamp bite will be hard and fast during this same time in deeper water. I started my grouper fishing career with heavy electric and hydraulic commercial reels and eventually switched over to Elec-Tra-Mates and Precision Auto Reels, but now I’ve gone full circle to lighter (heavyduty) level-wind reels with braided line and ultra stealth terminal tackle to stay ahead of the mental evolution of grouper and large snapper. You see, back in the day when there were so many grouper, it was a competitive atmosphere on the bottom. The first bait to the bottom used to catch the biggest red snapper or gag, even using monofilament leader, but

Tim Barefoot

sardines are by far the best choice for instant bites, but the problem with them is everything down there gives them a whack. Fishing a bait that eliminates everything but large black sea bass, large snapper and grouper helps weed through the smaller fish to find the big male grouper you’re looking for. Live pinfish, sailors

now it’s just not that way. I haven’t cleaned hundreds of grouper… I’ve cleaned thousands of them before selling them, and I’m always curious about what they were eating. One common denominator in gags and red grouper, but not as many scamp grouper, are the small red crabs that are obviously plentiful on live bottom.

This is what prompted me to experiment with crab jigs. I made my first batch of Crab Decoy Jigs over a decade ago and quickly realized they out-fish any other bottom rig I’ve ever used. I tie them in with red braided line and a short piece of fluorocarbon leader tied in a loop knot. Then I sweeten the pot with a live bait. Bait selection is important. Live cigs and

choice grunts, grass grunts and tomtate grunts all work. I like to fish big stacks of beeliners, and that makes beeliners one of my alltime favorite baits. I fish them live or butterflied on a Crab Decoy Jig. The older, wiser males are growing increasingly tackle shy, so shed all the useless terminal tackle and scale down to “clean” heavyduty tackle that can fool ole big boy into biting. For video with detailed instructions on fishing Tim Barefoot’s rigs and proof that they work, visit his website at barefootcatsandtackle.com.

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OCTOBER 2021

PUBLISHER & EDITOR BRENDA RIGGS MIKE RIGGS Co-publishers & Editors

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS J. JIM JIM AARON JOHN SCOTT JAKE

ANDRE BAUGH DAVISON KELLY TIGER REPPERT WORTHINGTON

GRAPHIC DESIGN JENNY DIAZ

CONTACT INFORMATION For editorial comments, articles, photography, artwork and all other inquiries please contact:

BRENDA RIGGS brenda@coastalanglermagazine.com

757.409.7518 MIKE RIGGS mriggs@coastalanglermagazine.com

757.681.5001

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OCT 2021

TIDEWATER & THE OUTER BANKS 1

Jake’s Outdoor Adventures

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By Jake Worthington

can hardly believe it but October is here! This month is one of the prime months for pier and surf fishing for red drum. Every year at this time, red drum fishermen from surrounding states and many from all over our own state hit the planks and the surf in search of landing one of these majestic fish. We are not seeking the slot puppy drum but their parents and grandparents that measure over 40 inches or more. Red drum fishing at this size is a total catch and release fishery. So, when we land them, we take care in handling these fish and returning them to the ocean to live and be caught another day. There are many drum fishermen that have been coming down to the Outer Banks for decades targeting this species of fish. These guys are what we call “Old Drum Heads” and they have been nice enough to share all of their wisdom and experience with us younger fishermen through the years. I remember traveling down to Hatteras with my Dad before I was ten years old and he bought me my first Custom Drum Rod at a Hatteras Tackle Shop. He also bought me a conventional reel and had it spooled with the proper line. My Dad, however, could not teach me how to cast because one, he is left handed and two, he has never owned or even cast a conventional drum reel. As a matter of fact, he still uses a Spinning Rod Combo to drum fish off the pier and surf. With my new drum combo, he took me to The Point and said, “If you want to learn, get out there and observe and ask because I have never seen an older fisherman not want to help a person new to the sport.” He was right and soon I had several experienced drum fishermen come up to me and they helped and showed me how to cast, follow my line, and how to practice Drum Fishing Etiquette. I sat back and listened and learned and put my time in on the sand and the planks. Through the years, I kept watching, listening and learning from these guys and I learned all the skills and secrets of being a successful Red Drum Fisherman. Like the English poet Lord Alfred Tennyson said, “I am part of all that I have met,” and I am always thankful for meeting them and learning from them. Some of my mentors in this fishery sadly “have crossed the bar” and are no longer with us, but they live on through me and the other younger Drum Fishermen as a tribute to their love of the sport. They have passed the torch for us to carry and do the same for the younger ones we meet along the way. Upcoming Fishing Tournaments Capitol City Surf Fishing Tournament October 11-17, 2021 NC Beach Buggy Association Red Drum Tournament Oct. 18-24, 2021 These are planned but, in this Covid time we live in, keep checking to make sure they don’t get cancelled! Jake Worthington First Mate on The Seaducer Charter Fishing Boat out of Oregon Inlet Fishing Center 800-272-5199.

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OCT. 2021

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THE FLYING FISHERMAN By J. Andre

Fall is Here Let the Good Times Roll!

As I write this, Fall is just a week and a half away on the calendar. Unfortunately, the weather doesn’t know that yet. While we have had a few Autumn preview days of glorious crisp mornings and cool dry air, the forecast for the next few days is back in the 90’s. I dread the heat. It won’t hang around long. Get your long sleeve shirts out because great catfishing weather is almost upon us! Yesterday, #8 and I hit the river at 0530 while it was still dark. I had to wear a hoodie sweatshirt to ward off the chill of the clear 55 degree dawn (one of those teaser days). The northerly breeze was already stiffening, giving me fair warning that the ride back to the ramp at the end of the trip was going to be a wet one. Once at my first fishing hole, I turned #8 into the wind and engaged the Spot Lock on the Minn Kota Riptide I-Pilot Trolling Motor. I love this piece of equipment for all its useful functions. Spot Lock makes anchors nearly useless except to hold down my plastic milk crate anchor storage boxes full of anchor lines, mooring lines, rags, fillet knives, and other odds and ends. Bait collection has been arduous for quite some time. Where have all the bluegills and white perch gone? More on that later. A bullhead finally made the ultimate sacrifice so we could have baits for my four primary catfishing rods. Once the spread was set out, the response was almost immediate – a 7-pound blue cat. This is the perfect size for the frying pan. So, he went right on the stringer and back in the water. The nice thing about bullheads for bait is the tough skin. Once the fillet is skewered on the 8/0 Circle Hook, it isn’t going to pull off by accident. You almost have to cut it off. One bullhead will keep you in bait for the entire morning. The rest of the fishing was slow but steady. All the fish looked like they came from the same hatch. Most were dinks in the 7 to 10-pound range. I released about 8 fish and brought the initial 7-pounder home for supper. I did manage to catch one white perch and promptly refreshed my hooks. Surprisingly, it was in vain, the bite was over. I like to slice the gill latch on the fish I bring home, so they bleed out making their flesh bright white with a minimal blood line next to the skin. I was leaning over the side of the boat doing the deed when to my amazement what initially appeared like dust on the surface of the water started darting around in formation. They were millions, not thousands, but millions of tiny fish fry swimming just under the surface of the water. No wonder I couldn’t catch but one perch. If I was a perch and had to choose between the tender morsels of native fish fry or some foreign Canadian night crawler, I’d reject the worm every time. Anyway, the day was a great success, and it was good to get out again on #8 given her days are numbered. #9 is schedule for construction any day now. Delivery is still set for November. If you are interested in a great 16-foot catfishing boat fully equipped with all of the equipment that makes catfishing enjoyable, take a look at Craigs List – Boats – Norfolk. Until next time, get SLIMED! COASTALANGLERMAG.COM • THEANGLERMAG.COM

OCT 2021

TIDEWATER & THE OUTER BANKS 3

OBX By Aaron Kelly

INSHORE

The fall silver mullet run is in full swing! These acrobatic baitfish team in the surf and sound side shorelines. Drum, flounder, trout, and stripers are all ready to pounce! Fresh mullet can be bought from our local tackle shops. They are brought in fresh daily. If you want to spend the time, one can cast net these mercurial baitfish. Pelican’s diving, greasy slicks showing signs of heavy fish feeding. Fall is in the air! Offshore excitement would revolve around yellowfin tuna and wahoo. This is the backside of the billfish season but anytime you can get offshore, you gotta go! Trolling ballyhoo is the tried-and-true method. You can also throw top water plugs into the tuna and get an extremely rewarding strike and fishing experience! Come on down to the outer banks this fall. Enjoy the fabulous sunsets, food, and fishing!

Capt. Aaron Kelly rocksolidfishing.com 252-441-657

4 TIDEWATER & THE OUTER BANKS

OCT. 2021

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So, it’s time for a new rod! By Capt. Jim Davison, Miss Disturbed Sportfising Well for some reason it’s time for a new rod or a complete set. What do you buy? Who do you buy it from? Custom or off-the-shelf? How much do you spend? What name brand? Roller guides or standard? Aluminum butt or EVA? This is a small list of questions everyone looking to make an investment in a new rod asks themselves. I’m writing this to maybe help some of you out on the question, “Should I go custom or off-the-shelf?” Full disclosure, I do build custom rods but not on a large scale and most of my stuff goes to friends and family. I will not be listing my business name in the article. I just want to provide information that might help someone out. So, let us take a look at off-the-shelf rods. There is a ton of rods out there to select from, names like Penn, Shimano, Sage, Offshore Angler, GLoomis, and so on. There is absolutely nothing wrong with any of these rods and the rest that are available from retailers such as Bass Pro, Cabelas, Melton, Gander Mountain, Dicks Sporting Goods, etc., but you settle for what is offered at the time you are in the store shopping. Now, lets say you have access to a custom builder. You now should be able to tell this person exactly what you are looking for. This should include what you will be using it for, colors, weight, type of guides, type of reel seat, blank, and everything. If you have a good custom builder, this person should be providing 3 price levels. Level 1 should be very basic, say EVA grips, standard guides, couple colors of thread, a good blank and some basic fancy wraps. Level 2 should be just that, the next level in parts, maybe a lighter blank, aluminum or slick butt, aluminum reel seat, more colors in the wraps, maybe roller guides, etc. Level 3 should be top of the line parts. I mean the expensive stuff like Winthrop butts and guides, Fuji K-Series guides, Abalone, top of the line blanks, and should take about twice the time to build and Level 2. After you work with your builder providing all the information for the

specific rod you are wanting and they provide pricing you will be surprised at the cost. Yes, I know these things can be large investments but look at what you are getting; even at the Level 1 pricing. You are getting the rod you want, not the one you are settling for. I would almost be willing to bet that a custom builder can even get pretty close to the cost of off the self. Now, keep in mind, you are not going to get a top-of-the-line custom for the same price of off-the-shelf but, you will have a custom built rod that has been built specifically for you. Also, if you are looking to do a complete set, you can purchase one at a time as your builder should be able to replicate with no problems. With all this being said, there is absolutely nothing wrong with going off the self. As I said at the beginning, there are some really good off-the-shelf rods out there that will last a lifetime. There is one more option if you have some time and a custom builder willing to show you. Build your own rods! I learned how to build rods from the late Jesse Buky, owner of JB Rods. He taught me everything about building my own rods. I was also able to purchase all my parts from him to build my first set. I picked up a used power wrapper and went to work. Did it take a while to get the first one done, yes, but when finished I had something I built. I remember the first time hearing the drag on our 50W screaming with a nice tuna on it, guess what, she held up for almost 15 years before I sold the set and built another. So, if you have some time during the winter months, find a custom builder willing to show you the trade and build your own. You can buy supplies from places such as Mudhole.com and several others. I hope this helps someone out to get outfitted with new equipment.

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OCT 2021

TIDEWATER & THE OUTER BANKS 5

SWINGIN’: INSTALLING FOLDING SWING TONGUE ON YOUR TRAILER OUTBOARD COOLING ASYSTEMS MAINTENANCE By John Tiger

utboard cooling systems are very simple and easy to maintain. They typically don’t offer trouble unless the owner doesn’t maintain and check them, or abuses by dragging the outboard through mud and sand, clogging the system. The system consists of: • Water intakes • Water pump assembly • Water tube • Powerhead water passages • Thermostats • Poppet valves

The water pump is the heart of the system. Typically located just atop the lower gearcase assembly, it’s easy to access and service. The pump typically consists of a rubber impeller that’s keyed to the engine driveshaft. Water enters the lower gearcase through inlets carefully engineered and placed (usually on the sides of the gearcase, just above the propeller shaft area). The driveshaft turns the pump inside a plastic housing with a stainless steel liner. The pump draws water through the gearcase intakes and up into the housing. The impeller blades (vanes) touch the liner at lower speeds as the driveshaft turns, but as the engine revs up, the impeller blades bend back away from the housing liner. The pump sends cooling water out of the top of the housing through a long brass tube, typically about a half-inch in diameter, up to the engine’s powerhead, where it circulates through the system’s cooling passages and thermostats. Salt, sand, mud, sticks, and other debris take their toll on the pump impeller, housing and related parts. That’s why most outboard technicians recommend replacement every season, or at worst every other season. There are legions of stories that go “I’ve had my outboard for twenty years and never replaced the water pump”; however, good preventative maintenance practice includes replacement of the pump and housing at regular intervals. BACKYARD MECHANIC: Buy a factory service manual for your engine, so you can follow the correct procedure and use the correct parts. An hour or so is all it takes to remove the gearcase, replace the pump, and re-install the gearcase to the engine. The tricky part of the gearcase removal on some outboards is disconnecting the shift shaft. For example, on most Mercury and Yamaha engines, the engine should be shifted into forward gear first. On many Johnson/Evinrude outboards, the service manual specifically denotes which gear the engine should be in to make removal and reinstallation easier. Temporarily removing the shift cable at the engine end will make things much easier as well, especially on engines where the shift shaft disconnection is inside the cowling. The engine should be tilted all the way up for gearcase removal. Typically there are two attachments per each side of the engine; on some there is also a nut in the front. There are usually at least one or two hidden nuts or bolts up under the anti-ventilation plate (that flat plate just above the propeller). You may have to also remove the trim tab to access one of these attachment bolts. Before you completely remove that last bolt or nut, prepare yourself to catch the gearcase in case it drops right out. Typically, this won’t happen; it will usually require some wiggling and pulling to remove it, even with all the bolts/nuts out. If the bolts are frozen/stuck in place, be especially careful you don’t break them off. Use a propane torch to heat up the aluminum housing around the bolt (not the bolt itself), and firmly tap the head of the bolt with a ball peen hammer. You can also use penetrating lubricant. These actions will expand the threads, loosen up the hardened corrosion, and free the bolt so you can turn it out. STAND IT UP: The unit should be placed in a work stand. Clamping the skeg firmly in a vise will work fine, but protect the finish by padding the jaws of the vise with a rag or other soft material. With the unit secured, 6 TIDEWATER & THE OUTER BANKS

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you can remove the old water pump. REPLACEMENT TIPS: Follow the water pump replacement procedure in the factory manual carefully, paying particular attention to the cautions and warnings. Here are a few general tips that apply to all water pumps, regardless of brand or engine size: • Use compressed air to clear debris from the intake passages and the top of the gearcase surrounding the pump. When you remove the pump and the impeller plate, use the air gun with an extended tip to reach far down into the intake passages to blow out any accumulated sand and silt. Blow compressed air up into the brass water tube in the engine midsection to clear any debris. • Use correct sealants when called for in the manual. • When installing the impeller into the housing, be sure of rotation (clockwise); then, install the impeller into the housing while turning it so the blades compress in the proper direction. • Use a dab of engine oil on the impeller blades when installing the impeller into the housing, so that it’s slightly pre-lubricated upon start-up of the engine when it’s all reassembled. Also, this makes compressing the blades into the housing easier. • Carefully tighten the housing screws; do not overtorque, or you may crack the housing and cause a leak later, which could lead to overheating. • After completing the pump installation, it’s a great time to drain, check and refill the gear lubricant. REINSTALLATION: Remember that the gearcase must be in the correct gear before installation. Hopefully you didn’t move the shift rod at all while servicing the water pump. When reinstalling the unit: • Clean the top of the drive shaft, then dab a small amount of marine grease on the splines—NOT on the top. Greasing the top may prevent the shaft from seating properly inside the crankshaft. Greasing the splines will make removal of the gearcase next time easier. • Be sure the exhaust adapter is properly positioned in the midsection. • While sliding the unit up into the midsection, ensure that the drive shaft, shift shaft and water tube are positioned properly. Be especially careful that the water tube enters the top of the water pump properly; if it misses, the engine will not receive cooling water and will overheat. • IMPORTANT-especially in salt/brackish water: Be sure to coat the threads and the shanks of each mounting bolt with heavy waterproof marine grease. This will ease removal next time you perform service. After the installation is complete and you’ve reconnected the shift shaft and shift cable, start the engine and ensure that it is pumping water, running properly at the proper temperature, and shifting from neutral to forward and reverse correctly. Consider also servicing the engine’s thermostats at this time, so that the entire cooling system is refreshed and ready for service. THERMOSTATS AND POPPET VALVES: These are easy to service; simply locate them on the engine powerhead, remove the housing cover (again, be mindful of frozen/stuck bolts), and remove the old thermostats, poppet valves, springs and rubber grommets. Clean all gunk and corrosion from the housing with compressed air and a dental pick, remove all old gasket material with a razor scraper, and replace the components per the instructions in your factory service manual. OTHER TIPS AND NOTES: Some helpful tips when servicing your engine’s cooling system: • If the old impeller comes out in pieces, and/or you see other debris (sticks, sand, mud)--be careful to blow out all water passages with compressed air to dislodge any debris that could block water from passing through. • Run the engine in the water, not on the hose, after you’re done and check temperature at the cylinder heads with an infrared temperature gun (available online or at any auto parts store for less than $30). Check your service manual for proper operating temperature; most outboards run temperatures between 125* and 150* Fahrenheit. • Ensure that the overboard water indicator (some call it the “pee stream”) is not blocked and is emitting a steady stream of cool to lukewarm water—not steam, not spurts.

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CATCHIN’& COOKIN’ JIM BAUGH’S RECIPE OF THE MONTH

CAJUN TILE

Hard to beat fresh fried spot and For the breading, use 3 cups of flour, 3 teaspoons of cayenne pepper, 1 teaspoon black pepper, 1 teaspoon red pepper, 2 teaspoons salt and a dash of Old Bay. Mix well. Clean the tile filets and cut into two-inch strips and coat with 2 beaten eggs. Dredge the fish in the batter. In a cast iron skillet, heat your oil to frying temp, then fry away! Great spicy seafood dish that goes with just about any dipping sauce. ENJOY!

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TIME FOR TILE!

by Jim Baugh reporting from Oyster Farm at Kings Creek, Cape Charles VA

Jim Baugh Outdoors TV recently completed an awesome offshore shoot for tile fish. This was an exciting 20-hour adventure that started out leaving the Virginia Beach Fishing Center with Rudee Tours. The Rudee Angler was loaded with a lot of enthusiastic fishermen that were ready to fill their coolers. And fill them they did! We fished anywhere from 300 to 700 feet deep for these tiles and boy they were chewing! Our bait was simply salted squid and that was all it took to land loads of doubles and many citations. Everyone on the boat limited out and I did not count the trophies, but there were a lot. This is not just a fishing trip but an adventure and one that you won’t soon forget. To book your trip just call the Fishing Center at (757) 4918000 they are also on social media and have a web site. JBOTV would like to thank Rudee Tours and the Fishing Center for allowing us to film this show. They are always great to work with. You can watch the new show on our JBOTV YouTube channel, Facebook, and Amazon Prime Video. If you have not had a chance yet to visit the barrier islands on the Eastern Shore of Virginia, now is the time. Fall is the perfect time not only for speckled trout, but the fall bird migration is about the best there is and is something to see. One of the Captains JBOTV is featuring is Captain Ken Eshleman who charters eco tours as well as fishing. Not only are the birds flying, but the fish are biting! Now is the perfect time to book a trip for specs and reds. Call Captain Ken at (717) 572-7589 or visit his website www.capecharlesfishingadventure.com. If you’re looking for a place to stay the night, call the Oyster Farm, everything you need for accommodations & lodging, and the Seafood Eatery is the best food on the Shore! www. theoysterfarmatkingscreek.com Be sure to check out our new Nightscapes and check out our online gallery at https://jimbaughoutdoors.blogspot.com/p/prints.html. Also, our Metal Print Nightscapes are in the Lemon Tree Gallery in Cape Charles. Plan now for the 2021 Rockfish Shootout held at the Oyster Farm coming up in December 2021. For rules and regs just visit their web site at www.midatlanticrockfishshootout.com. Jim Baugh Outdoors will be filming the event again this year and really look forward to seeing everyone. Jim Baugh, Jimbaugh.net, Jim Baugh Outdoors TV For more updates on our fishing trips and latest shows log on to: https://jimbaughoutdoors.blogspot.com/ for updates on everything, digital prints gallery, etc. Jim Baugh Outdoors TV Amazon Prime Video https://www.amazon.com/gp/video/detail/B07Z9S825F/ref=atv_ dp_share_cu_r JBOTV Online Hubb: https://jimbaugh.blogspot.com/

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CASTING A FLY ROD By Scott Reppert Virginia Coastal Fly Anglers

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t is my impression that people are interested in fly fishing but put off by the whole casting thing. It is different but it is not that hard. If you put casting a fly rod into Google and you will get more than 30 million results. That many hits must mean something. I do have a number of favorite casting videos on YouTube. If you ever watched the fabulous Lefty Kreh, his principles and his uncanny ability to effortlessly send a fly a mile is amazing and not to be missed. If you want an instructional video my favorite to start is Captain Chris Myers “Fly Casting for Beginners.” Look it up! He has others that are sound but that one is all solid fundamentals with no fluff. Lefty, Chris and others, particularly Ed Jaworoski focus on principles and practical physics to make sure you can cast simply, easily and effectively. If you have a fly rod and want to try these out this is my somewhat crazy version of these ideas. If this is not clear please feel free to ignore me and watch a video. Better yet, the 3rd Thursday in October to the next Meeting of the Virginia Coastal Fly Anglers (VCFA). This is probably the last time this year to work with someone on casting at the VCFA meeting at Bayside Presbyterian Church, before Daylight Saving Time ends. Bayside Presbyterian is at the corner of Ewell and Independence in Virginia Beach. Please consider coming about 6:30 p.m. and working with someone to learn and/or improve you’re casting. Now a trip to the Principle’s (pun) office; 1) Don’t take any slack. Start with a straight fly line extended out of the rod already, between you, the rod tip and the far end of the fly line which we will say has a fly on it. You want to be able to move the fly immediately or you cannot start your cast. 2) Accelerate your rod smoothly in a straight line in the direction you want the fly to go. I say that like it is easy. I haven’t even come to the fun part yet. 3) You end your cast with the tip of your rod going in a straight line where you want the fly to go and you STOP! No follow through, no slowing down. Stop. Women tend to throw like girls, elbows out and limited follow through. Guess what? Women tend to be solid fly casters, I think due at least in part to those same mechanics. I have condensed and simplified casting. Please consider that this is clearly a place that pictures and instruction is helpful. Get out the fly rod and try. You can do this well with just a little practice. Next month I want to talk about fishing for stripers under lights. Sight casting particularly with a fly rod at the edge of a shadow can be amazing. Start getting you fly gear ready now. See you next month!

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DRAG: SET IT AND FORGET IT

By Will Schmidt

cringe every time I see it, whether it’s a seasoned pro or newbie. A fish makes a blistering run; the angler reaches down to tighten the drag only to part ways with the fish due to too much pressure. There are a variety of reasons why tightening the drag during a fight is a bad idea. First, as the diameter of the spool gets smaller with less line, the drag already actually increases. The spool is spinning at the same rate, but less line is coming off. Physics, who knew? Also, the drag of the line itself in the water adds more strain—the more line, the more pressure. Finally, even if the line doesn’t break, the chances of pulling or straightening the hook increases with the additional load. Worst of all, losing a fish due to applying too much pressure is one of the easiest things to avoid. Set your drag and forget it. Old-school tactics still hold true today when it comes to setting a drag. Set it to 20 to 30 percent of line test strength. For example, if you’re using 10-pound test, you want your drag to be set between 2 and 3 pounds, 4 to 6 pounds for 20-pound test. To do this, you need a scale and a friend to hold it. An inexpensive spring scale will do the trick. Attach the line to the scale and pull against it. When the drag starts slipping, read the scale and that’s your drag setting. There’s some debate as to whether you should pull straight or with a bend in the rod. I use a bend, and it has never failed me. I generally set my drags at 25 percent of the test strength of the line, but there are certain situations that call for going higher and lower. If you are grouper fishing or chasing big snook near structure, you need to be able to turn the fish by applying maximum pressure. In this case, setting your drag more toward 30 percent of the test strength would be advisable. Because this rule was devised before the advent of braid, the type of line should also be

considered. The stretch of mono gives you a bit of forgiveness at the strike and during jumps. When setting the drag for braid, lighter or closer to 20 or 25 percent would be sensible. Many seasoned anglers, myself included, will add extra pressure to turn a wayward fish by thumbing or palming the spool. This can be useful, but it takes practice to get that touch, and all who do it will at some point apply too much pressure. Sometimes it’s a case of turn the fish or lose it, so your only option is to apply more pressure. However, in general, your best bet is to set it and forget it. Will Schmidt is a seasoned tournament angler who has been writing about fishing for more than two decades.

Gulf Cobia Study Underway

exas researchers are conducting some pretty cool research with Gulf of Mexico cobia in order to better understand the migratory patterns of this highly mobile species. Each spring and fall, you’ll see tower-bearing cobia boats cruising Gulf Coast beaches sight fishing for cobia as they migrate along the coast from Texas to the west coast of Florida and back again. Research has shown that brownies over-winter off the coast of Mississippi and Alabama as well as off South Florida, where there is mixing of Gulf and Atlantic cobia stocks. Researchers with the Center for Sportfish Science and Conservation are tagging Texas cobia with pop-up satellite archival transmitting tags (PSATs) to better understand the species. Many Texas anglers have reported declining cobia landings in recent years. Texas Parks & Wildlife Department and federal agencies have funded additional assessments of Texas’ cobia populations. Areas of interest are post-release survival, habitat use patterns and seasonal movements. Evaluating whether or not cobia stocks mix between U.S. and Mexican waters is of particular interest. It could have Gulf-wide management implications if the stock overlap between the U.S. Gulf and Mexican waters is high. To learn more about the program, and how to claim your reward if you catch a tagged one, check out this video: https://bit.ly/LoneStarLing.

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INSPECT AND MAINTAIN YOUR BOAT’S HYDRAULIC STEERING E

By the Experts at Dometic Marine

xperienced boaters know regular inspection, preventative maintenance and fixing small problems before they become large ones are keys to trouble-free time on the water. Many boaters, however, tend to overlook hydraulic steering systems. This isn’t surprising, given these systems’ reliability and durability. Owners of outboardpowered boats expect smooth, easy steering control and rarely think about steering-system components until they wear out or need repair. According to Brian Dudra, vice president/ general manager for Dometic Marine, boaters can ensure trouble-free steering and extend the life of components through simple inspections and maintenance. “While each of our hydraulic systems are designed for the harsh marine environment, like any critical control system, it requires periodic checks and maintenance,” Dudra explained. “As per your owner’s manual and product labels, hydraulic steering systems should be inspected prior to every use for fluid level, steering response, leaks or worn/ binding components.” In addition, most systems require a small amount of maintenance from a qualified dealer every six months. Here’s how to inspect and care for your hydraulic steering system. Check the Helm: Starting with the steering helm, make sure the steering cylinder and helm hydraulic hose connections are tight. Dudra recommends greasing the helm shaft when installing the steering wheel to facilitate easier future removal. Check hydraulic fluid level inside the helm by unscrewing the fill plug and looking inside. The level should be 1/8- to ¼-inch below the lowest thread in the fill port. If lower than this, fill the helm to the proper level, but avoid over-filling. Check steering response when turning the wheel. It should respond within a quarter turn. If not, the system might need fluid or there might be air in the system, which requires purging. For tilt-and-lock steering helms, make sure the plastic covers are secured. Inspect Hoses & Fittings: When inspecting hoses, run your hand down them to feel for cuts, chafing or cracks. If you discover wear, have a qualified service shop replace suspect hoses. Also, ensure hose fittings are tight. Feel for hydraulic fluid leaks or weeps by running a finger around the fitting. If you find a leak, tighten the fitting. If that fails, have a qualified service shop address the issue.

Check Steering Cylinder & Glands:

Most outboard-powered boats use front-mounted hydraulic steering cylinders. The cylinder should be periodically inspected with focus on the cylinder hose connections and glands on each end of the cylinder to ensure there are no leaks. 12 NATIONAL

OCTOBER 2021

Inspect the glands, which contain seals, on the ends of the steering cylinder by running your finger around the edges. If you discover fluid weeping, it’s time to replace the gland with authentic SeaStar parts. Check the steering cylinder’s shaft and support rod. Inspect the cylinder shaft for salt buildup, corrosion and nicks that might damage the cylinder. Major damage might require replacement of the entire cylinder. Apply a thin film of grease to the visible portions of the support rod. Remove and inspect the rod annually. The support rod and outboard tilt tube must be cleaned of old grease and debris prior to re-applying quality marine grease before re-installing.

Fix Leaks: If the hose fittings are weeping fluid, the hoses might require replacement. The same applies to the glands. SeaStar offers a gland replacement kit and O-ring seals for the bleeders and other fittings. If you follow the provided instructions carefully, fixing leaks is relatively easy for competent DIY boaters. You can also turn the job over to a qualified marine shop. To ensure the steering is secure and tight, check all assembly nuts for proper tightness,

including the adjusting nut on the starboard side of the support rod. Purge Air: Air in the hydraulic steering system causes sloppy unresponsive steering and noisy operation. It can make your boat unsafe. Air finds its way into the hydraulic system through leaks or when replacing key components. It must be purged through a process called “bleeding.” Your owner’s manual explains bleeding. If you lack confidence, tools or manpower to do it yourself, ask a qualified marine shop to handle this.

Check for Water Intrusion. Make sure water hasn’t entered the system. Water can cause damage and internal corrosion. “This is a subjective examination, but can be performed by taking a syringe and sampling the fluid in the helm reservoir,” Dudra advised. “If the fluid looks like ‘chocolate milk,’ then the fluid is likely contaminated with water.” If this occurs, the entire system must be inspected for leaks. Once these are fixed, the system should be flushed with clean oil to remove any contaminated oil. To learn more about marine steering and components from the industry leader, visit www.dometic.com.

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OCTOBER 2021

By Rex Hannon

itting in the Cancun International Airport, I couldn’t help but reflect on the past 15 days on Mexico’s beautiful Caribbean coast. In August, I traveled to the little fishing village Xcalak to compete in the Silver Scales International Fly Fishing Tournament. Xcalak is a quaint little village very near the border of Belize in southern Quintana Roo. It doesn’t make it on most tourist lists. In fact, a large 9:54 AM percentage of Mexican citizens have probably never heard of the place. If it wasn’t for Xcalak’s world-class flats fishery, even fewer would know of it. The Silver Scales International Fly Fishing Tournament is an annual gathering of some of the finest saltwater fly fishers on the planet. The tournament focuses on the “grand slam” of permit, bonefish and tarpon. Combine that with a snook, and you have the “super slam.” Points are assigned for each fish, and there’s an added bonus for anglers who catch a slam. The grand slam is all three species in a 24-hour period, or in this case the day’s allotted fishing hours. Xcalak is an amazing fishery. If your bucket list includes the pursuit of this elusive challenge, there is no better place on the planet. Sighting schools of bonefish is commonplace, but the real prize is the abundance of “black-tailed devils” known as permit. Just because there are great numbers of these highly sought after game fish, they are by no mean easy. It’s much more fishing than catching. Fifteen teams and 30 total anglers fished three days in 2021, and the results were impressive. There were seven grand slams caught and two super slams. Total catch included 27 bonefish, three snook, 13 tarpon and 22 permit. Like I stated earlier, the Silver Scales draws some very talented anglers from around the globe. Brothers Javier and Mauricio Osorio, of Escamas Plateadas dedicated months to ensure the gathering was a success. The success our team “Fly Fish Costa Maya” is due to the passion and dedication of my friend Will Robins and the hard work and intimate knowledge of our guide Moises Cordova. The tournament is a grueling three days of hot sun, little sleep and nothing short of physical torture. It was one of the best times of my life. Preparation, hard work and endurance paid off in a respectable fourth-place finish. But, our success in fishing the tournament was nowhere near the highlight of this trip. Just knowing there are special places and people like this warms the heart and makes you want to return. I was anxious to board the plane for home and see my beautiful wife, but— with God’s blessing—I know I’ll return to this place soon.

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FISH A LIPLESS CRANK

TYLER WOOLCOTT

he weather is cooling, and bass are feeding heavily before the spawn. This time of year, baitfish is prevalent in waters across the country, and there is one lure that puts fish in the boat just about everywhere. This bait is a lipless crankbait. A lipless crank can play a huge role in getting baitfish-feeding bass to bite. I use it all over the country. Sometimes it’s as easy as casting it out and retrieving it steadily. But sometimes it’s a bit more complicated. Inside the lure, there are rattles. Sizes vary from ¼-ounce up to an ounce, and it is best to match the size of baitfish bass are feeding on. There are different types of rattles inside different lures. Two I like are a multi-rattle and a one-knock. Multi-rattles make a lot of noise. I throw this style when fish are very active and feeding heavily. The noise draws their attention from real baitfish and gets them to react and eat your bait. I like the one-knocker version and its slower, deeper-pitch knock when fish are feeding on baitfish, but not very actively. Fish tend to scatter out when they aren’t actively feeding, and that deeper pitch can sometimes trigger them to bite. There are many ways to retrieve a lipless crankbait. A steady retrieve can sometimes be the trick, especially if you see bass

feeding. But my absolute favorite way to fish a lipless crank is to yo-yo it. This is a varied retrieve with the reel handle, with an occasional pull and pause with the rod to let the bait flutter up and fall back down. This technique is deadly. When you pull the bait up fast, it makes a loud rattle. Then, when you let it flutter down, it looks like an injured baitfish, and bass can’t resist it. In the fall, bass also feed on crayfish in some parts of the country. A lipless crank can be a massive player in this scenario. When crayfish flee, their tails smack against their bodies and make a clacking noise similar to a rattle. When deciding colors, I match the color of the lure to the color of the baitfish present. 13 Fishing makes an awesome lure called the Magic Man that comes in both multirattle and one-knocker versions. When matching baitfish, I use chromes, whites and sometimes chartreuse. When mimicking crayfish, I use reds and oranges.

Trap Fishing Gear I’ve done a ton of experimenting with setups for lipless cranks, and I’ve got it down to a science. When dealing with treble hooks, you want a rod with a decent amount of backbone and a bit of bend to let the fish get the hooks. I use a 13 Fishing Omen Black 7’4MH Moderate action rod. I pair this with a 7:1 Concept A 13 Fishing reel spooled with 15-pound Seaguar Abrazx line. Tyler Woolcott is a professional tournament angler and guide. Check out his website at www.tylerwoolcottfishing.com.

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OCTOBER 2021

NATIONAL 15

PHOTO COURTESY OF KNOCKIN TAIL LURES

TIPS FOR CATCH-AND-RELEASE FLOUNDER

A MONSTER CANADIAN STURGEON

hite Sturgeon can live longer than 100 years, so it’s likely this monster fish has been swimming between the northern Pacific and British Columbia’s Fraser River for the better part of a century. According to the Vancouver Sun, it took a group of Canadian anglers about 25 minutes to land this huge sturgeon in August. It stretched the tape to 11-feet, 6-inches and had a girth of 55 inches. An estimate based on those measurements puts the weight of the fish near 900 pounds. That would make it a Canadian provincial record for the species, according to the Sun. The anglers were fishing the Fraser River east of Vancouver. National Hockey League great Pete Peeters and his buddy Jake Driedger took turns on the rod. White sturgeon are widely protected, which makes them a difficult species in terms of records. In British Columbia, catch-and-release fishing for sturgeon is allowed, but fish longer than 5 feet must remain in the water before release. These protections as well their size makes it nearly impossible to get a certified weight on angler catches. The IGFA all-tackle world record white sturgeon was caught in 1983 and weighed just 468 pounds. There have been several reported but uncertified catches heavier than 1,000 pounds, including a 12-foot, 4-incher caught in 2012 from the Fraser River. It was estimated at 1,100 pounds. However, it’s likely the all-tackle record is permanent because it’s no longer possible to weigh white sturgeon. For more on fishing opportunities in British Columbia, see www.gofishbc.com.

16 NATIONAL

OCTOBER 2021

By Capt. Michael Okruhlik

s the weather changes, so do the fishing patterns. This year, along with the seasonal changes, we also have some regulation changes to keep in mind. Here in Texas and also in Florida there are new closed seasons for flounder in 2021. From Nov. 1-Dec. 14, Texas flounder will be catch and release only. In Florida, the recreational season will be closed Oct. 15-Nov. 30. These closures are part of regulations-tightening trend for Gulf and Atlantic states after a federal study showed southern flounder numbers at historically low levels. I’m happy to report we’re still catching flounder, but be sure to check for updates to your state’s seasons and bag limits before applying the following tips. I enjoy the precise approach to successfully and consistently catch flounder. Although I won’t be able to harvest any during the closed period, I’ll still land some saddle blankets for photos before release. I’ll also modify my tactics to improve my hook-up ratio, which will also increase the odds of flounder survival during this spawning season. While targeting flounder, I generally pause after I feel the initial strike. I do this for a few reasons. Flounder hold their prey in locked jaws for a period of time in order to kill the bait and reposition it before swallowing. I don’t get as many hook-ups when setting the hook on the first thump of a flounder strike. In preparation for the closed season, I’ve practiced downsizing lures. A shorter and smaller profile significantly increased my first-strike hookup ratio. A lure that has proven very effective is the new 3.25-inch Knockin Tail Lure. It has a small profile, which allows for a wider gap between the plastic and the hook tip. With the boney jaw of a flounder, ample hook exposure increases penetration. This lure also has a built-in tail rattle and a ton of action. When targeting flounder, I start each day with a new jighead, and I might even replace it during the day depending on the bottom structure in the area. A sharp hook is crucial to consistently piercing a flounder’s jaw, which is where most of the hooks will be if you’re not waiting for the second or third bite, which is what I do if I plan to retain my catch. I also recommend a jighead with a strong solid hook with little to no flex. My final tip for targeting flounder is to use bright colors. Any color can work, but I catch more flounder on bright patterns. Some of my favorites are, white/limetruese, chartreuse with glitter and a bright green/bright red combo. I hope these tips give you the edge during this year’s flounder runs. Don’t forget to take a kid fishing. Flounder can be an easy target for young anglers, even on lures. Capt. Michael Okruhlik is the inventor of Knockin Tail Lures, Controlled Descent Lures and the owner of www.MyCoastOutdoors.com.

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