CIDESCO LINK Magazine Issue 86

Lash Perfect

INSIDE THIS ISSUE

· Countdown to Congress

· Lash innovations

· The importance of Beauty Sleep

· Making the most of your CIDESCO qualification

President’s Message

G UND, Pr ESIDENT, CIDESCo I NTE r NATIo NAL

DEAr FrIENDS AND CoLLEAGUES

We are quickly approaching our 66th CIDESCO World Congress this year in Stockholm and I am very much looking forward to seeing as many of you as possible. It’s a once a year opportunity for us all to come together from all parts of the world to discuss one thing we all have in common: maintaining high standards in our industry. We all recognise in our changing world this is not an easy thing to do but I’m proud to work with so many professional people dedicating their working lives to this. You only need to speak to our Examiners or look on social media to see the joy of achievement from our CIDESCO students reaching Diploma status and the feedback from employers to show the important position CIDESCO has in the industry.

With so many nationalities involved, I always view CIDESCO as the United Nations of Beauty & Spa Therapy. Just like the United Nations we are continually looking to bring more countries into our membership, establishing Sections and accrediting schools in new territories. It has been a pleasure this year to welcome Lebanon, the Cayman Islands and Nigeria.

I was privileged to be invited by CIDESCO Section USA to attend America’s Beauty Show earlier this year where I presented CIDESCO’s first Signature Facial Treatment. The response was incredible and we’re looking forward to rolling the training out to the membership over the coming months. We are in the process of releasing the video of the facial treatment training which will be available via the Knowledgebase and exclusively to CIDESCO Accredited Salons and Spas.

This issue of LINK has some fascinating features to read including a look at lash innovations which have become one of the most popular treatments for many salons and therapists. Jyotsna Thopte has also interviewed sleep science specialist, Dr. Prasad Karnik who explains the importance and benefits of sleeping well. The importance of sleep should never be underestimated.

I hope you enjoy reading all our latest news and look forward to seeing as many of you as possible in Stockholm.

With best wishes

Anna-Cari Gund

CIDESCO Celebrates Beauty Diversity

CIDESCo is inviting its schools, members and the general public to join in the celebrations for CIDESCo’s International beauty Day on Sunday 9th September 2018. The special day, which was started by CIDESCO Section Russia in 2015, will celebrate inner and outer beauty around the world and raise awareness for the importance of the beauty industry as a whole.

CIDESCO will be asking members and the public to share their own personal definition of what beauty is. The campaign will see countries globally joining in on #InternationalBeautyDay by sharing

their definitions of beauty through words, images and video content. This will then be collated into CIDESCO’s exclusive ‘International Beauty Dictionary’, providing insight into the beauty industry worldwide and bringing together the collaborative ideas from its students and clients in countries far and wide.

As well as sharing their thoughts on what ‘beauty’ means, CIDESCO is encouraging schools and members to get involved by offering beauty treatments to those in need such as carers and nurses, arranging special ‘one day only’ offers and providing introductory talks on the diplomas and courses their schools offer.

New CIDESCO Collateral

We’re pleased to advise that some of the CIDESCo marketing materials available to members have now been updated. A new Tear Drop banner is available, with an updated brochure and pull up banner following soon. Please contact head office to acquire the new materials.

Announcing CIDESCO’s celebration of International Beauty Day, AnnaCari Gund, CIDESCO International’s President says; ‘The beauty industry is extremely valuable as it helps people across the world look and feel good, inside and out. International Beauty Day is a fantastic opportunity to celebrate how CIDESCO has affected the lives of our schools, students and members worldwide.’ Join in on Saturday 9th September by sharing ‘what beauty means to you’ on social media using the hashtag #InternationalbeautyDay.

CIDESCO Certificates

Have you seen our new Certificates? They are ideal for CIDESCO Schools wishing to facilitate the growing number of students who are keen to develop and progress in specific areas of beauty. The three new certificates consist of; Certificate in Skincare, Certificate in Aesthetics and Certificate in Body Therapy.

Contact info@cidesco.com for full details.

CIDESCO World Congress Speaker Line-Up

CIDESCo media make-up School.

Presenting ‘To work professionally with Make-up’

Presenting ‘Mineral therapieshealth or skincare?’

ENS bErGSTröm: Tattoo artist since 1997 and founder of Tattoo and Piercing Education 2010. Consultant and educator on hygiene and safety in the workplace.

She advocates nature’s impact on human entirety as an approach to total wellness.

Presenting ‘Healing Waters’

Presenting ‘Breaking the skin barrier and keeping it safe’ entrepreneurship.

Presenting ‘Innovative treatment for Acne Vulgaris shown in a new study’

To register visit: www.cidescocongress2018.com

There are 4 stages of cellulite:

• First - almost invisible with some slight oedema of tissues, when skin is tight you can see a slight orange peel.

• Second - the oedema looks more solid; when you press the skin the orange peel is more visible.

• Third - is named micronodular when the orange peel is visible and when you press the tissue it can be strongly seen.

• Fourth - macronodular or atrophy stage is the most serious stage when cellulite is painful, veins are strongly squeezed, highly visible bumps appear, broken veins and capillaries are visible and the skin gets blue and cold.

Factors Involved in Cellulite Formation

1. Genetic predisposition

2. Endocrine system disorders

3. Disruptions of water and salt balance, low water intake

4. Microcirculation disorder in hypodermic fatty tissue

5. Insufficient exercise, low fresh air breathing

6. Unhealthy diet (with prevalence of animal fats, cholesterol, non-organic salts, disbalance in food calorie intake and calories consumed)

7. Bad digestion, bad toxin elimination

8. Urinary tract malfunction - fluid retention

9. Bad oxygen – carbon dioxide exchange on cells’ level

10. Stress - oxidative stress

11. Innappropriate clothing or shoes

Cellulite is a condition which attacks women and men

Usually there are places on a human body where cellulite attacks women and places where cellulite attacks men. So we have the ‘Gynoid’ type of cellulite and the ‘Android’ type of cellulite. But this doesn’t mean that there are places on human bodies reserved for cellulite for women and places reserved for men

Cellulite is the most common skin condition of the contemporary world

Women suffer from cellulite more than men. Around 80 per cent of women over the age of 20 develop cellulite.

Women are more greatly affected than men due to the difference in skin structure between the sexes. Men’s connective tissue forms in a crisscross pattern, whereas women’s appears as vertical columns and, along with having thinner skin, these columns allow more space for fat to push through to the skin’s surface.

Also the important feature of cellulite is that cellulite never attacks the body in a proportional way. It is localised on some parts of the body which damages the figure of the body. And the worst cellulite can damage the posture of the body. Further, cellulite in an advanced phase can disturb the vertebral column, blood circulation, lymphatic circulation, joints, wrists etc.

Conclusion

Cellulite should be treated in the very early stage when elimination is easy and relatively quick. But don’t forget that cellulite is a disorder and cannot be cured without elimination of factors which involve cellulite

Dr VEr A ZEC , PrESIDENT CIDESCo SECTIoN SErbIA AND Pr CommITTEE mEmbEr. Principal and professor of Aquatonale Beauty Academy International, Belgrade, Serbia Educational Director and professor of iMaster eAcademy International - Singapore, SG

Lashes Unite the World

by K ArEN HoDGES Co-FoUNDEr, SALoN GUrUS, LLC

Eyelash extensions first entered the scene with the new millennium and artists around the globe are pushing the boundaries with innovative techniques.

Lash extensions were first performed by placing a single lash extension along the shaft of a natural lash in a “paint the lash” application of adhesive. Refinements in adhesives over the years made it possible to adhere extensions with the tiniest possible single bead of adhesive, which allowed extensions to be attached only at the base of the natural lash, thus effectively doubling the volume of the lash line.

Russian artists broke one of the first barriers when they came up with the idea to set multiple lash extensions at the base of the natural lash in a “fan” or “bouquet” formation. There was resistance, at first, because a healthy lash line must be maintained and too much weight (extensions that are too large in diameter and/or too long) adhered to the natural lash can result in premature shedding. If this happens enough, the follicles can be injured and go dormant, causing thin, sparse natural lashes. The answer was shorter, lighter weight lashes and “volume” styling streaked through the lash community.

Lash artists found that a curlier lash makes more of an impact than a straighter lash and the original “J” and “B” curl lashes were supplemented with a variety of curl styles designated as C, C+ D and DD. For clients with downward growing lashes, the curlier extensions gave them a flirty look that had been unavailable to them.

Americans, of course, added their own twist to volume lashes with interspersing different lengths, resulting in a more casual styling (think along the lines of “beachy hair”).

Styling also became experimental along the lash line—extending the outer few lashes created “cat eye” styling. Artists worked to create a taper from shorter extensions along the lash line to the longest lengths at the outer ends.

Artistic creativity has flourished and many variations on lash styling is found.

Lash extension artists over the world are exercising their innovation and creativity for their clients. Custom lash services are going to cost more—clients might pay around 50% more for Volume lashes (multiple lash extensions per natural lash) than Classic lashes (one last extension per natural lash). Clients might pay two to three times the Classic rate for custom designer lashes to compensate for special lashes the artist will need to stock and the extra time needed for “couture” lashes.

Which Lash Treatment?

ELISAbETH bExTEr CIDESCo DIPLomA SKIN

THEr APIST, DIrECTor AND FoUNDEr oF bEAUT yLoUNGE SToCKHoLm, FoUNDEr oF THE AWArD WINNING SWEDISH bEAUT y AND LASH LIFT brAND “by bExTEr”, INTErNATIoNAL mASTEr L ASH ArTIST Tr AINEr

Do you want longer and fuller eyelashes? There are many ways to get to those of your dreams – this ranges from lash extensions to lash lifts and different serums. Here I list the advantages and disadvantages of the most common lash salon treatments.

The myth that it is possible to turn your eyelashes into long, fluttering, solar springs using a mascara – whatever the advertisements say – has long been dead. At the same time, more and more people are being seen proud in cities around the world with their new handsome, volume eyelashes.

So, it is possible to get your dream lashes, but how? Well, there are many methods, depending on the results you are looking for. Are you finding that your eyelashes no longer curve and mascara doesn’t do the job anymore? Or do you just want to have nice lashes with minimal effort?

It is possible to get your dream lashes, but how?

Lash extension - for both dramatic and natural results

A dramatic solar fever effect or natural result with single lashes. It has been a few years since eyelash extensions broke through, and the trend does not seem to be slowing down.

I have noticed that those who come to me and want to have extensions are doing so more and more each year. When I ask my customers why they like the method, they say it’s comfortable, it saves them time and they do not have to worry about their mascara being smudged during the day.

When you make a lash extension at the salon, the false eyelashes are glued to the natural lashes. How many lashes set depends on the number of natural lashes the customer has and desired results, but it can include up to 100 lashes on one eye. As part of the consultation with the customer, we choose the length and bend, and whether they need single transverse or volume lashes. We also discuss colour. Black lashes are the most common, but an increasing number of customers also want brown lashes for that extra natural effect. Coloured lashes are becoming more and more popular and the colour can be used in extensions as a type of ‘highlighter’ for a little extra effect.

The volume lashes are glued and consist of several thin and super thin lashes, between two and ten, for a result that can either look very natural or very dramatic. The small fans are done by hand by the Lash art stylist.

Are there any risks of eyelash allergic reactions?

There have been cases of allergic reactions to the glue, but I have had thousands of customers during my years as a Lash art stylist and maybe four to five of them have had an allergic reaction. It is so important to study and choose good lash training. Check out and compare the different educators before choosing. How many days does the education include? Is there any support after you have completed the training? What’s included, what do you learn?

To work with the Lash glue, by law we have to have thermoplastic training to get more insight into the fact that it is actually chemicals we are working with daily. We must also have a certificate of service from a company doctor who approves of good health practice and that we can work with the glue without risks.

Pros and cons of eyelash extensions:

Time: 1.5 - 2.5 hours.

Shelf life: Up to six weeks, but needs to be completed approximately every three weeks.

Advantages: The result is immediate and fits those who do not want to spend too much time on makeup.

Cons: For the best results, the lashes must be filled in approximately once a month. There have also been cases of allergic reactions to the glue.

To keep in mind: For the lashes to keep, it is important not to use oil-based products on eyelids, lashes. One must also be careful not to rub the eyes, as the lashes can then loosen.

Education: The actual basic education in lash extension is about three to five days, but it takes time a lot longer than that to learn how to master the technique very well. You will also need to study several advanced courses to expand your skills and improve.

in an improper sleeping pattern. Increased inflammatory cells also may lead to increased breakdown of collagen and hyaluronic acid - the molecule giving glow, translucency and bounce to skin. It may also flare immune related skin diseases as psoriasis and eczema.

It is said that, ‘You don’t stop sleeping because you grow old, you grow old because you stop sleeping’.

Generally, those who get less than five to six hours sleep a day, may face serious health hazards. Other than the visible appearance, lack of sleep may lead to various effects as:

• Psychological - negative mood, anger, depression, sexual dysfunction

• Intellectual - memory problems, attention deficits, general IQ - low scores

• Physical - fatigue/tiredness, decreased productivity

• Social - having difficulty of getting along with others, possibility of accidents, temperamental behaviour, lack of fine eye/hand co-ordination, etc.

• Medical - weight gain, diabetes, hypertension. faster ageing.

These problems may get magnified due to negligence, leading to serious consequences.

Sleep and heart diseases

Among many sleep disorders, the most commonly found is Obstructive Sleep Apnea (OSA). It is the disorder of abnormal breathing during sleep and people with OSA have repeated interruptions in breathing during sleep, caused by the main breathing passage in the back of the throat closing or becoming too narrow. OSA has a direct link with hypertension and direct/indirect association with Coronary Artery Disease, Congestive Heart Failure & Stroke. Multiple sleep & wake cycles put pressure on the heart and it remains high, after some time, even during daytime. This leads to chronic high BP, i.e. hypertension.

Hence, sound sleep is a prerequisite for good health, energy and vigour or overall health will pay the price eventually if we are constantly sleep deprived.

Researchers attributed the disorders to stress brought about by a modern lifestyle, noise pollution and exposure to various kinds of lights, especially smart phones and computers. With today’s crazy work timings, partying lifestyle, late night studying and net surfing, one is often sleep deprived. A repetition of such erratic sleep patterns could modify the body clock causing sleep disorders.

On the other hand, hypersomnia - oversleeping can also be termed as a medical disorder and linked to serious health problems including diabetes, obesity, headaches, back pain and heart disease. Sufferers may experience symptoms of anxiety, low energy, and memory problems as a result of their almost constant need for sleep.

Factors like alcohol, depression, some medications, low socioeconomic status are strongly associated with oversleeping. Ignorance or less access to health care and therefore more undiagnosed illnesses, in turn, may cause oversleeping.

And then there are people who simply want to sleep a lot.

For constant conditions of sleeping too long or too less, it is better to see the doctor to find out the cause.

How much sleep do we need?

The amount that permits us to be energetic and alert throughout the day. It varies significantly over the course of our lifetime and from person to person. It depends on our age and activity level as well as our general health and lifestyle habits. During periods of stress or illness, we may feel an increased need for sleep. Experts generally recommend that adults should sleep between seven and nine hours each night.

Although many suffering from sleep disorders turn to temporary solutions like sleeping pills, alcohol and other medication, doctors suggest sleep therapy as an option for permanent relief.

‘Sleep science’ has been advanced and various therapies are available to diagnose and cure sleep related problems. This can bring good change in quality of life. Our body can be compared to a battery - it needs to be recharged on a regular basis properly or it will get run down and maybe even die!’

Regular sleep habits are important for the recovery process. It is good to avoid caffeine and alcohol close to bedtime. Exercising regularly, short meditation, use of calming aromatic oils, clean, soft, breathable cotton sheets etc. and making the bedroom a comfortable environment that’s conducive to sleep can help to get a good sleep.

What does it profit a man if he gains the world but loses his own sleep.

So, sleep well… Go well…

JyoTSNA THoPTE Pr CommITTEE mEmbEr, CIDESCo INDIA

(Information credit to Dr. Prasad Karnik - ‘Sleep Science’ specialist and research papers published on internet.)

Diary Dates

AUGUST

02 – 05 Estétika, São Paolo, Brazil www.congressoestetica.com.br/

04 - 05 ABC Congress, Cape Town, South Africa www.saahsp.co.za

23 – 24 Cosmo Tech Expo, New Delhi, India www.cosmotechexpoindia.com/

SEPTEmbEr

02 – 03 Professional Beauty, Johannesburg, South Africa www.probeauty.co.za/

04 – 06 Cosmetics, Beauty & Wellness (Spa) Expo, Lagos, Nigeria www.bkgexhibitions.com/exhibitions

06 - 09 CIDESCO 66th World Congress, Stockholm, Sweden www.cidescocongress2018.com

07 – 08 World of Beauty & Spa, Prague, Czech Republic www.beautyexpo.eu/

08 – 09 Beauty Expo Australia, Sydney, Australia www.beautyexpoaustralia.com.au/ 9 September CIDESCO International Beauty Day www.cidesco.com

09 – 10 Esthetiworld, Bari, Italy www.esthetiworld.com/esthetiworldbari/il-progetto/

1 0-12 Diet & Beauty, Tokyo Big Sight, Tokyo, Japan www.dietandbeauty.jp/en/ 15 – 16 Cosmetica, Hannover, Germany, www.cosmetica.de/ cosmetica-hannover

18 – 20 XVIl International perfumery and cosmetics exhibition, IEC, Kyiv, Ukraine www. intercharm.kiev.ua

19 – 21 Termatalia, Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil, www.termatalia.com

20 – 22 Beauty & Wellness, Manila, Philippines www.globallinkmp.com/ beautyandwellnessmanila

20 – 22 Beyond Beauty Asean, Bangkok, Thailand www.beyondbeautyasean.com/

22 – 23 Beauty Forum, Warsaw, Poland http://beauty-fairs.com.pl/en

27 – 30 Nevskie Berega, St. Petersburg, Russia http://nevberega.ru/en

oCTobEr

01 – 02 Professional Beauty, Mumbai, India www.professionalbeauty.in/

03 – 07 Feria Belleza y Salud, Bogotá, Colombia http://feriabellezaysalud.com/

03 – 05 Beauty Africa, Lagos, Nigeria www.beautyafricaexhibition.com/

04 – 06 Beauty Expo Korea, Seoul, Korea www.expobeauty.co.kr/

05 – 07 Arena of Beauty, Sofia, Bulgaria www.arenaofbeauty.bg/

06 – 08 Estetika, Brussels, Belgium www.estetika.be/

06 – 08 Esthetiworld, and CIDESCO Congress Italia, Milan, Italy www.esthetiworld.com/

11 – 13 Cosmobeauté Indonesia, Jakarta, Indonesia www.cosmobeauteasia.com/

13 – 14 The Belgrade Beauty Fair ‘The touch of Paris’ and CIDESCO Congress Serbia, Belgrade, Serbia www.sajamkozmetike.com/en/thetouch-of-paris

20 – 22 Salón Look Internacional, Madrid, Spain www.ifema.es/salonlook_01/

21 – 22 Professional Beauty North, Manchester, UK http://professionalbeauty.co.uk/e/ pbnorth/site/Home

21 – 23 Beauty Professional, Kazan, Russia http://expobeauty-kazan.ru/

21 – 22 HJ Live North, Manchester, UK http://salonexhibitions.co.uk/e/ north/site/home

Contact Sandy Aerne at CIDESCo International

Email: info@cidesco.com Tel: +41 44 448 22 00

Around the World

CoNGr ATULATIoNS To EVEryoNE WHo PASSED THEIr CIDESCo Ex AmINATIoNS rECENTLy.

Top: CIDESCO Students at the Esthetic Institute Training Center, Calgary, Canada; Middle L: CIDESCO Examiner celebrating the first CIDESCO Beauty & Spa Management Diploma exam in Malaysia (L-R: Norlisa Lee Abdullah, middle Jeannie Sim and Julie Lew Yoke Peng; Middle R: Ireland’s Newest CIDESCO Beauty Therapists at the Sharon Leavy Academy; Bottom: Dr. Redkaya with successful students from the Cosmetic Educational Centre, St Petersburg, Russia.

CIDESCO Associate Members

Biologique Recherche www.biologique-recherche.com

Brightmond AB www.sminkspegel.se

Celtic Seaweed Bath Products/VOYA www.voya.ie

CosMed Kft www.pandhys.com

Decaar Cosmetics www.decaar.com

Finders International Ltd www.findersbrands.com

Gharieni Group GmbH www.gharieni.de HydroPeptide LLC www.hydropeptide.com

Kerstin Florian www.kerstinflorian.com

Image Medical Spa www.imagemedicalspa.co.nz

Ilcsi Beautifying Herbs www.ilcsi-natural-cosmetics.co.uk

Nell Health, Beauty & Laser Clinic www.nelllaser.com

Spa Staff www.spastaff.com

Tip Touch International www.tiptouch.com

Trade Exhibitions Ltd www.professionalbeauty.co.uk

Wellness Interactive Branding www.wellnessinteractive.com

World Wellness Weekend www.worldwellnessweekend.org

The CIDESCO Associates Membership is open to brands and suppliers to the professional beauty, spa, aesthetics and wellness industries and individual professionals within these sectors.

There are a number of benefits for an Associate Member of CIDESCO, including use of the CIDESCO Associates logo, a profile on the CIDESCO International website and connection with the CIDESCO global membership which spans over 40 countries across five continents.