Issuu

S R A E Y MARCH / APRIL 2022

Sabaidee Dear Passengers, Welcome aboard and thank you for choosing Lao Airlines. On behalf of the company, I would like to extend our best wishes to you for International Women’s Day and Lao New Year. We wish you happiness and success for you and your family as Laos reopens after a difﬁcult period. Lao Airlines is ready to serve you every time, whether near or far. I hope that Lao Airlines will be your choice as a convenient method of transport to your destination and we hope that we can welcome you aboard a ﬂight with us again soon.

Safe travels.

With highest respect, Khamla Phommavanh Managing Director & CEO of Lao Airlines

Hello readers, Welcome to the March-April issue of Champa Meuanglao. Laos is beginning to reopen further, like a ﬂower beginning to blossom. Champa Meuanglao is celebrating its 5th anniversary! To celebrate, we have pulled a few fantastic articles out of our archives for you to enjoy again. Learn about two luminary Lao artists and see their beautiful work. Also, visit a sanctuary for Lao elephants in Xayaboury and experience the lifestyles of these majestic creatures. Lao New Year conjures images of hot temperatures and exciting festivities. There’s no better place to see the celebration than in Luang Prabang. Already seen the major sights of downtown Vientiane? Go a little farther aﬁeld to explore many more under-the-radar places. Also, take a trip down south and be surprised by two other little-known sites: Heuan Hin and the 4000 Holes. Lao Airlines has also upgraded its staff uniforms. Get a closer look at the high fashion you’ll see at high altitudes! Happy Reading!

COVER IMAGE 5 years of Champa Meuanglao

PUBLISHING Editor In Chief Editors

Managing Editor Contributing Editors Creative Director

Cameron Darke Aditta Kittikhoun Duangtavanh Oudomchith Muanghai Saechao Jochen Moravek

Contributing Writers

Anita Preston Francis Savanhkham Sally Pryor Xaiykhamla Maliya

Head Photographer

Phoonsab Thevongsa

The Champa Meuanglao Publishing Team In light of the current Covid-19 situation throughout the world, please be aware that certain activities, festivals, sites, businesses, and events mentioned in this magazine may not be open and operating as planned. Do exercise good judgment, maintain safety precautions, and follow the directions of Lao authorities at all times.

Jason Rolan

Contributing Photographers

Anita Preston Paul Wager

ADVISORY BOARD Khamla Phommavanh Managing Director Somsamay Visounnarath Deputy Managing Director of Technical and Flight Operation

ADVERTISING sales@rdkgroup.la (856-20) 59596621

Saleum Tayarath Deputy Managing Director of Commercial and Marketing, ICT Sitthideth Douangsiththy Deputy Managing Director of Ground Handling and Cargo

RDK GROUP

LAO AIRLINES STATE ENTERPRISE LIMITED

134 Samsenthai Road, Xiengyeun Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Laos (856-20) 55731717 info@rdkgroup.la

Headquarters Wattay International Airport Vientiane Capital, Laos Tel: (856-21) 513243-46, Fax: (856-21) 513247 www.laoairlines.com Follow the official Facebook Page at www.facebook.com/laoairlines to get the latest news and updates from the national carrier of Laos. DISCLAIMER

Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. Copyright © 2022 by Lao Airlines State Enterprise and RDK Group. www.champameuanglao.com

纯天然精油

Vat Inpeng Street Vien�ane, Lao PDR Tel. 021-223178 info@ar�sanslao.com

精油洗发皂

天然驱蚊喷雾枕边睡眠喷雾

Products P d t on display att T’Shop T’Sh Lai L i Gallery G lle / ffacebook:LesArtisansLao cebo k:L sArt sAr isa sLa /email: /email info@artisanslao.com info@ f fo@ rtis nsl

CONTENTS MARCH / APRIL 2022

INTO THE WILD

SNAPSHOT

Xayaboury’s Elephant

Stepping stones to

Conservation Center

the ancient past

CHAMPA MEUANGLAO

LAO AIRLINES

SUSTAINABILITY

5 Years of Champa

Lao Airlines’ new uniform

The SUSTOUR Laos project

YEARS

has officially launched!

Meuanglao

LAO CULTURE

ART

EXPLORE

ON THE AIR

Ring in the New Year –

Dreams on canvas –

Beyond Vientiane

Lao Airlines information

Lao Style

two female Lao artists

ENSURE YOUR BUSINESS IS SAFE LaoSafe is a health and hygiene programme for the tourism

and hospitality sector that has just received oﬃcial approval from the Ministry of Health and the Ministry of Information, Culture and Tourism. After a pilot run in Vientiane, it is now being rolled out throughout the country in line with the Green Travel Zone priorities. It comprises a series of safety standards for the following subsectors of the tourism and hospitality industry: ACCOMMODATION FOOD AND BEVERAGE OUTLETS AIRLINES TOURIST ATTRACTIONS TOUR GUIDES E

U ,C

LT U R E , A N D T O

T R Y O F H E A LT

NIS &

MI IS

laosafe@luxdev.lu

tourismlaos.org

RY OF

SAFE & CLEAN

INF O

Scan this QR code or go to tourismlaos.org to apply for your LaoSafe certiﬁcation now!

INIST EM

DR – CERTI O P FIE

DRIVERS

FROM THE ARCHIVES – INTO THE WILD

YEARS

HE FROM T ES ARCHIV

PACHYDERM’S

PARA DISE Travel oﬀ the beaten path to learn about and protect Laos’ elephants TEXT BY FRANCIS SAVANHKHAM PHOTOGRAPHS BY PAUL WAGER / ECC

hrough dawn’s mist they appear, their giant monotone silhouettes rolling slowly from the jungle hills towards the lake. One by one, they enter the tranquil waters of Xayaboury’s Nam Tien Lake to bathe. They are joined in near silence by other members of the herd. The gentle procession’s stillness is broken only by the distant sound of the calves’ trumpeting. Laos, formerly known as The Land of a Million Elephants, has seen its elephant population decline due to loss of forest habitat and illegal wildlife trade. Created in 2011, by ElefantAsia NGO co-founder Sébastien Dufﬁllot, a French elephant conservationist who has been working and living in Laos for 20 years, the Elephant Conservation Center (ECC) is taking steps to reverse this trend by bringing awareness to the plight of elephants, as well as offering an opportunity for a respectful visit to see these great beasts in their natural environment. Elephants at the center are here to rest, either waiting to give birth or recovering from an exhausting life in logging or mass tourism industries. Do not expect to see package tours of people riding or bathing with elephants all day long – here, elephants are simply elephants!

GETTING THERE Free minivan (approximately 2 hours) every morning from Luang Prabang, with prior booking at ECC oﬃce, Mekong Riverside, Ban Pakham, Luang Prabang. CONTACT Tel: +856(0)71 25 23 07 and +856 (0)20 96 59 06 65 or online elephantconservationcenter.com

left: A mother and baby elephant stroll through the forest. 1. Elephants require a large area to forage for food 2. Sunset on Nam Tien Lake 3. Veterinary staﬀ check an elephant's health 4. Elephants come to the lake for a drink

Overall, the center is a place that focuses on animal welfare, observation and learning. There is no interaction with elephants, as one of the goals here is to avoid close contact with humans, which would affect their natural behaviour. As the ECC hopes to be able to release these elephants into the wild, eventually, it is important that they enjoy being elephants without being subject to unnatural activities and encounters. Visitors can observe elephants from a number of stations, one of which is a tree-top platform set in the forest surrounding the Socialization Area. The center is home to the only elephant hospital in Laos, where biologists can answer all of your questions about the life cycle of these majestic creatures. Other activities include visiting an elephant museum, kayaking on the breathtaking Nam Tien Lake, and helping take elephants into the lush forest at night to their sleeping grounds. The Elephant Conservation Center is a place where you can get up close with the elephants in their traditional natural environment. Away from mass tourism venues, the center offers a holistic approach to the conservation of Lao elephants. This is not just another elephant camp, as the ECC does not relocate elephants into tourist areas. On the contrary, it takes you to them, in their natural habitat. This article appeared in an earlier issue of Champa Meuanglao. MARCH / APRIL 2022

FROM THE ARCHIVES – INTO THE WILD

1 2

MARCH / APRIL 2022

STEPPING STONES SNAPSHOT

TO THE

ANCIENT PAST Journey deeper into southern Laos PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA TEXT BY JASON ROLAN

ost journeys to southern Laos include visits to the famous Wat Phou UNESCO World Heritage Site as well as the 4000 Islands in Champasak Province. But for a more eclectic holiday, visit Savannakhet and Salavan Provinces to see the lesser-known Heuan Hin (Stone House) and 4000 Holes. Like the Wat Phou temple complex, Heuan Hin is a stone temple. It is believed to be the northernmost Khmer structure in Laos, located along the Mekong River in Savannakhet Province. It is believed to be one of the rest houses constructed by Jayavarman VII in the 12th century. Originally a Hindu site, it was later converted by Buddhists. A bit farther to the south is the area known as the 4000 Holes along the Mekong in Salavan Province. Erosion over millions of years has caused peculiar formations in the seasonally-submerged sandstone here. These types of formations are known as "giant's kettles" or "potholes", and are formed from water ﬂowing over rocks and debris. The ﬂow causes them to spin around on the sandstone, drilling holes over many millennia. Some are quite shallow and small, while others make great swimming holes in the dry season.

1. Heuan Hin has not been heavily studied or restored, like Wat Phou. 2. Stone nagas stand at the corners of the area. 3. Heuan Hin is in the center of a small village and remains a place of worship. 4. Local people make oﬀerings and pray to the Buddha in the sanctuary. 1. ເ�ືອນຫີນຍ�ງບ�ທ�ນໄ��ຖືກສຶກສາຄ�ນຄວ�າຢ�າງເ�ິກເ��ງ ແ�ະ ບູລະນະ ຄືດ�ງວ�ດພູ. 2. ຫີນສະ��ກເ�ັນພະຍານາກ. 3. �ເ�ືອນຫີນຕ�ງຢູ�ໃ�ກາງຂອງເ�ດບ�ານນ�ອຍໆ ແ�ະ ຍ�ງເ�ັນສະຖານທ�ສ�ກກາລະບູຊາຂອງຊາວບ�ານ. 4. �ປະຊາຊ�ນທ�ອງຖ�ນພາກ�ນມາຖວາຍເ��ອງເ��ອບູຊາ ແ�ະ ໄ��ພະພຸດທະເ��າຢູ�ໃ�ພະວິຫານ.

MARCH / APRIL 2022

SNAPSHOT

2 1. The 4000 Holes is a large area of sandstone eroded by the Mekong. 2. Some holes are large enough to swim in. 3. During warm months, the larger holes are great for cooling oﬀ.

SNAPSHOT

1. These natural land formations are very unique. 2. A sign welcoming visitors to the 4000 Holes. 3. One of the large holes formed by water swirling over the rock.

GETTING THERE Lao Airlines has four ﬂights to Savannakhet per week. Heuan Hin is 70km south of the city. 4000 Holes is 150km south of Savannakhet.

MARCH / APRIL 2022

S R A YE of

A RETROSPECTIVE

n 2017, RDK Group received the honor of publishing and revitalizing Champa Meuanglao, the official inflight magazine of Lao Airlines. In shaping the trajectory of Laos’ leading travel publication, it has always been vitally important to share the wondrous stories and sights of Laos with the world. Our very first issue rolled off the press in May of that year featuring cafes, waterfalls, and Vientiane’s Walking Street. To this day, we have presented tales from all over the country and from as far away as Phnom Penh, Hanoi, Shanghai, and Seoul! While the last few years have been difficult for everyone involved in tourism, both Lao Airlines and Champa Meuanglao have remained steadfast in our commitment to being one of the best airlines, and airline magazines, in Asia!

LAO AIRLINES

TURNING HEADS RUNWAY ON THE

Lao Airlines’ new uniform serves haute couture at high altitude TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAO AIRLINES

ven in the modern era, one cultural tradition that has remained a source of pride for the Lao people is the traditional costume for women, which conveys their unique identity. Since the beginning, Lao Airlines uniforms have always incorporated the Lao traditional style with a sinh skirt, a silk blouse with a wrap collar, and even a pha bieng shoulder scarf. In keeping with this inspiration, Lao Airlines is pleased to announce the launch of a new uniform for female cabin crew and ground staff, designed by Tina Lao Silk. Centered around the frangipani, the national ﬂower of Laos and symbol of Lao Airlines, the new uniform design symbolizes the richness of traditional culture amid modern progress.

The design of the uniform draws inspiration from Lao traditional floral patterns found in handmade weaving. The overlapping petal shape of the neck scarf is both elegant and contemporary, yet perfectly complements the traditional sinh and shoulder scarf. The updated blouse is a lighter shade of blue, while the Lao Airlines logo is woven into the cloth, with slightly different styles for cabin crew and ground staff. The cotton fabric allows ventilation well suited to the climate and greater ease of movement. This contemporary look is truly suited for the runways of both fashion shows and airports!

MORE INFO These new uniforms are not yet replacing the old uniforms. The new uniforms are worn every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Sunday, on special ﬂights, and on the ﬂights to Korea.

MARCH / APRIL 2022

LAO AIRLINES

MARCH / APRIL 2022

SUSTAINABILITY

HERE AT

LAST!

The SUSTOUR Laos project has oﬃcially launched! TEXT BY XAIYKHAMLA MALIYA PHOTOGRAPHS BY PLAN INTERNATIONAL

above: Travelife Engagement Event at The Grand Hotel, Luang Prabang Province on Febuary 3 2022

n December 15, 2021, the project, “Supporting Micro, Small, Medium Enterprises (MSMEs) in the Lao Tourism Industry Supply Chain to Access Markets for Sustainable Practices Project”, or SUSTOUR Laos for short, signed a Memorandum of Understanding with the Ministry of Industry and Commerce (MoIC) to begin implementation of activities in 11 districts across Luang

Prabang Province, Vientiane Province, and Vientiane Capital. The SUSTOUR Laos project is funded by the European Union and implemented by Plan International Laos in cooperation with the Department of Trade Promotion of MoIC, the Lao National Chamber of Commerce and Industry (LNCCI), and the European Centre for Ecological and Agricultural Tourism (ECEAT). Ultimately, this project aims to improve the sustainability of the Lao tourism industry by integrating local businesses into the tourism supply chain through the promotion and certification of sustainable business practices. Adoption of sustainable practices for primary tourism businesses – travel agents, tour operators, and accommodations – will be certified and awarded by the Travelife certification standard developed by ECEAT

and recognized internationally as the leading sustainability certification system in the tourism industry. Sustainable supplier businesses in 5 key sectors of the tourism supply chain – waste management, transportation, food & beverage, cultural excursions, and handicraft & souvenir – will be awarded by LNCCI under a locally developed certification called “Lasting Laos Certified” which will be developed by the project based on the Travelife methodology. All promotion for certified businesses sustainable tourism practices will be aligned under the Lasting Laos marketing campaign.

Travelife Engagement To kick off the project with tourism businesses, a series of Travelife engagement events were held in Vientiane Capital, Vientiane Province and Luang Prabang Province. The events were chaired by Mr. Xaysomphet Norlasing, Director General of the Department of Trade Promotion of MoIC, and Mrs. Chanthachone Vongsay, Vice President of LNCCI. The purpose of these events was to provide Travelife eligible businesses with an overview of the SUSTOUR Laos project and the Travelife certiﬁcation program. In total, more than 120 representatives of tour operators, travel agents, and accommodation

MORE INFO travelife.info

facebook.com/ lastinglao

businesses participated and expressed interest in attaining the Travelife certification. “This support would enhance the entrepreneur’s capacity, utilize the advantage of the environment, and mobilize the engagement of the entrepreneur to improve their production and service in order to meet the standard and be able to meet the demand of the tourism sector. The most important thing is having a hotel, tour operator, and their suppliers certified and recognized by the international visitor and being able to compete among our neighbors”, expressed Mr. Xaysomphet Norlasing, Director General of the Department of Trade Promotion of MoIC. “The Travelife program is a significant step and opportunity for entrepreneurs to become a sustainable business by participating in the project’s activities which would include business operation enhancement and standardized improvement”, remarked Mrs. Chanthachone Vongxay, Vice President of LNCCI. During these events, the participating businesses provided valuable feedback through group discussions related to improving the sustainability throughout the tourism supply chain as well as to guide the project in prioritizing supplier sectors to focus project activities and resources. Overall, these events were an important step forward for Laos tourism businesses to achieve the Travelife certified status and become recognized as a leading sustainable tourism business!

MARCH / APRIL 2022

SUSTAINABILITY

MARCH / APRIL 2022

Ring in the New Year – Lao Style TEXT BY ANITA PRESTON PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANITA PRESTON / EVENSONG FILM

Revelers toss water in Laos' wettest festival.

n April, Laos partakes in the biggest and wettest street bash of the year. This is the main event of the holiday calendar and it’s an especially large event in Luang Prabang. It might seem strange to hold New Year in April but Laos follows a traditional calendar and is closely tied to the vernal equinox. Rituals abound over the holidays, particularly involving water, as it’s the time to cleanse, purify and wash the old year’s bad luck away. People like to pour water over other people while recanting a new year’s wish, and it is poor form to refuse. Your valuables will get wet, so put them in a plastic bag, wrap your camera in something waterproof and prepare to be soaked. Policemen, nuns, monks, and grannies are not exempt from the water throwing, so be gracious and accept the libation. Flour, food coloring, and black pan grease could also grace your clothing, so don’t wear your best outfit. The timing is apt as April is the hottest month of the year, it feels refreshing having someone pour icy cold water on you while wishing a sabaidee pi mai (Happy New Year). Officially spread over three days from 14 to 16 April, the real celebrations often last about a week. Local belief dictates that the first day of celebration is the last day of the old year, the middle day is a day in limbo between both years, and the final day is the first day of the New Year. In Luang Prabang, on 13 April, a day before the official holiday starts, an elephant procession starts in the morning from Wat Mai to Wat Xieng Thong. Elephants are significant in the history of Laos and this event symbolizes their training for battle. Throughout this period, people also visit their local temples to wash the Buddha images to build merit and even hold family gatherings at a spot such as Kuangsi Waterfall. On the first official day (14 April), a street fair is held at the town’s main junction where you can find heaps of waterproof pouches for your essentials, sunglasses, floral shirts, and water guns, all de rigueur for the festival. You might notice the local dress code, it's become a tradition to wear bright flowery shirts and if you are a couple, matching shirts. Later that afternoon, the party moves out into the Mekong when people take boats to a sandy island to build sand stupas which are decorated with flowers and banners. This stems from a Buddhist tale where each grain of sand used to build a stupa will absolve one sin. MARCH / APRIL 2022

LAO CULTURE

1 1. Pou Nyeu, one of the ancestor spirits of Luang Prabang

2. The Prabang while being washed by devout locals

3. A carriage used for high-ranking monks during the procession

The second day is the day suspended between the old year and the new. An afternoon parade makes its way down the main street to Wat Xieng Thong. Composed of different ethnic groups in costume, various business organizations, and a large quotient of orange-clad monks, the procession is a lively affair and most of the town turns out to watch and throw water on the participants. Elements from traditional folklore such as the ancestor spirits of Luang Prabang, Pou Nyeu and Nya Nyeu, as well as masked Ramayana dancers from the Phalak Phalam Theater also walk the route, usually accompanied by beating drums and music. Each year, local girls vie for the prestigious Miss New Year title Nang Sangkhan and the chance to ride atop the most eye-catching ﬂoat of the parade. At the end of the procession, she comes riding a giant animal, including tigers, peacocks, buffalo, a garuda, and even a donkey. Symbolically, she represents one of the seven daughters of King Kabinlaphom and this year she will be the manifestation of Princess Kirinithevi. She will be standing atop an elephant, wearing emerald green, holding a mahout’s

MARCH / APRIL 2022

LAO CULTURE

hook in her right hand and a gun in her left hand. The animal, the way she is sitting or standing, what colors she wears, and what she holds in her hand are significant and determined by detailed astrological calculations. After the procession, many people drive around and engage in water fights from trucks and motorbikes and visit friends’ houses to splash water, exchange blessings, and enjoy a beer. On 16 April, the final day starts early with giving alms to the monks as they walk through town. If you are feeling energetic you can climb to the top of Phou Si Hill to make offerings of sticky rice to the spirits. In the afternoon, the previous day’s procession returns in the opposite direction from Wat Xieng Thong up the main street, while people continue to throw water and party in their homes, as well as holding baci blessing ceremonies to bring good luck for the new year. The evening hosts a special procession of lanterns that descends Phou Si Hill at dusk, while masked dancers perform scenes from the Ramayana for the public. The following day, calmer, more serious activities take place. Laos’ most venerated Buddha image, the Prabang, is paraded from its home at the Haw Prabang to Wat Mai, where a pavilion is set up to protect the golden statue. For the next three days, locals and visitors offer flowers and candles, pour water over the statue, and pray for blessings. Do remember to dress appropriately; women should wear sinh skirts and everyone must wear a shoulder scarf to participate and build good karma for the coming year.

1 2

1. Buddhists light candles and incense

2. Masked Ramayana dancers include troupes of giants and monkeys

3. Locals visit Wat Xieng Thong to wash the Buddha images there

MARCH / APRIL 2022

LAO CULTURE

ແປ ແລະ ຮຽບຮຽງໂດຍ ວັນນະແສງ ອິນສານ ຮູບໂດຍ ANITA PRESTON / EVENSONG FILM

MARCH / APRIL 2022

LAO CULTURE

YEARS

FROM THE ARCHIVES – ART

HE FROM T ES ARCHIV

Dreams ON

CANVAS Two female artists are ﬁnding their voice in Vientiane TEXT BY SALLY PRYOR PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

lé Viravong Scovill was just seven years old when she started drawing. First, it was a comic book; she created a story about a girl who wants to become a painter, but is too poor to realise her dream. Later, growing up in Vientiane, she would buy magazines, and copy photographs of actors and singers. As soon as she finished school, she went to art school in Thailand. At just 18, it was the first time Olé had ever left her family, much less the country. What followed was a rigorous, fiveyear journey of discovery, in which she discovered several things. The first was that studying art, and being an artist, was truly difficult. There were weeks, months and years of perfecting one subject – the nude body, hands, flowers, sunrise and sunset – before moving onto the next. The second discovery was a complicated relationship with colour. One of her professors warned her she might be colour-blind, as her works tended to be dark – physically and thematically. For her final thesis, she chose prostitution as her theme, and spent six months researching her subject on the streets of Bangkok, and also back in Vientiane. “After my thesis, everything was so dark and I couldn't see. My professor had suggested with the prostitution theme to try dark colours,” she says. “I did purple and blue, and I even tried red, a sad, hot colour. But they still came out brown.” She graduated in 2000 and returned to Vientiane to live with her father and sister, bringing some acrylics and paper with her. She says it was when she met her future husband, an American translator who also liked to draw, that her sense of colour finally returned.

left: Olé's colorful mural on a wall in Vientiane's Saphanthong Tai Village

1. Olé poses next to a vibrant face on her mural

2. Creativity ﬂowing onto a canvas

Since then, especially since moving to the United States, colour, joyful and rampant, has been a mainstay throughout her works, and she often spends days at a time mixing the right shades before starting a new painting. The third revelation to arrive during her art school days was that the stubborn streak she had always shown as a child was growing, as she became an adult, into fully fledged feminism. Two decades on, and her works – mainly painting, but also photography and installation – still focus continuously on the female form. Sometimes these forms are vivid, meticulously detailed, fantastical and disembodied, and often confronting. She often describes her subject matter as “aggressive”, a word that has as much to do with the reaction she often gets as her own thought processes. Back in Laos after nine years in California, she is grappling with the reactions she gets from locals, be they government officials concerned at her nude depictions, or timid art students, awed by the possibilities of the world she has opened up for them. Meanwhile, there is another female artist hunkering down in her Vientiane workspace, also struggling to find her voice and make it heard. Back when Olé was already a teenager, this other girl, Souphaluck Phongsavath, was also discovering her love of drawing, and a way of protecting herself against the spirits she had always been so scared of as a child. MARCH / APRIL 2022

FROM THE ARCHIVES – ART

Souphaluck remembers growing up in Xayaboury province, when she would hurry past the temple on way home, afraid of what might be in there, waiting. But that changed when, one day, her mother pointed out the paintings inside. “When I ﬁrst saw paintings on the wall and inside the temple, it was amazing,” she says. “They were images of Buddhas – items I saw every day but in a different dimension – and I just thought, wow.” Her fear of temples was gone, replaced by a love of drawing that has never gone away. Watching her copying out the images she saw, her aunt realized the family had an artist on their hands, and eventually encouraged her to study art in Savannakhet as a high school student. Souphaluck went onto the study at the National Institute of Fine Arts in Vientiane – nine years of art study in all. But she found most of her learning happened in the library of the capital’s Institute Francaise, with its library well-stocked with art books. It was there that she discovered the works of European artists like Van Gogh, and understood, truly, how many different ways there were of looking at the world. She says she learned more from looking at the works of others – fellow students, or travelling exhibitions from neighbouring countries

1. Souphaluck Phongsavath at work

2. A work by Souphaluck Phongsavath

– than she did at university. Her experience at art school in Vientiane was markedly different to Olé’s. For starters, she arrived too late to secure a spot in the painting class, and had to settle for wood-cutting instead. But despite her disappointment at the time, today her work is still informed by her earliest learned techniques; the woodcuts create the textures she uses most often in her paintings. Hearing her talk about her work, one might be forgiven for thinking it is a refined version of the religious and traditional depictions commonly seen in temples. “I love flowers, I love the lotus, and I use Lao patterns and motifs in my work,” she says. But up close, the works are startlingly original and daring. Large-scale and intricate, her paintings do, indeed, feature lotuses and traditional female forms from Buddhist teachings. But these motifs are often entwined around a naked female body, or an otherworldly figure, faceless and discomfiting, dreamlike, drifting through schools of silver fish. And while there are connections throughout her work – she has been practicing full-time since she left university – she makes a point of forgetting each work as soon as she begins the next. “The art looks like it's connecting, but something is always different and I’m always learning,” she says. “This shows through each new painting.”

She has no intention of undertaking any more formal study, and prefers to learn from life, and the people around her. “Artists can understand when they look at your work,” she says. “We all speak one language, even if we're not talking. We know when we show work we're exchanging ideas. I love to study like that, not in university.” Despite their age difference – Olé is 41, Souphaluck 31 – and distinct artistic journeys, the two women have much in common as they work to maintain a practice in what is something of an artistic back-wood. Both are raising sons, and both rely on the help and understanding of their families to enable them to truly immerse themselves in their practice. It’s a rare sight, not least in Vientiane, where even male artists are restricted by physical resources and teaching methods. Olé is sometimes distraught, but more often optimistic, to think of the nascent artistic talent lies dormant throughout the country, and tries hard to make herself available as a mentor to artists like Souphaluck. This article appeared in an earlier issue of Champa Meuanglao. Olé has since relocated to the USA. Souphaluck is still creating art in Laos.

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FROM THE ARCHIVES – ART

MARCH / APRIL 2022

EXPLORE

BEYOND VIENTIANE Nature is plentiful if you know where to look! PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA TEXT BY JASON ROLAN

s Laos’ center of government and business activities, Vientiane Capital seems to lack some of the natural tourist attractions found in other places around the country. But this isn’t true. Fascinating places abound within a short distance from the city, and with recent road improvements, accessing them is easier than ever before. Within a drive of just an hour or two, you can journey to these beautiful lakes, stunning waterfalls, and scenic mountains.

Yod Xouang Waterfall

MARCH / APRIL 2022

18°14'23.2"N 102°21'57.6"E

18°20'34.3"N 102°46'29.0"E

MARCH / APRIL 2022

18°02'38.0"N 102°22'47.8"E

MARCH / APRIL 2022

EXPLORE

18°10'25.4"N 102°27'56.6"E

18°19'12.1"N 102°48'40.5"E

MARCH / APRIL 2022

EXPLORE

18°17'25.5"N 102°26'18.7"E

18°23'09.1"N 102°45'23.2"E

MARCH / APRIL 2022

18°27'32.2"N 102°45'02.1"E

Lao Airlines Updates

LAO AIRLINES NEWS | AIRLINE PARTNERS FLIGHT ROUTES | OFFICES

FLIGHT ROUTES

WIN

ROUTE MAP INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

10:30

12:30

QV811

07:40

Transit (VTE) Arr. 08:25

PAKSE

13:25

QV535

09:25

09:45

Th Su

10:55

QV223

AT7

W F Su

11:20

14:1

QV515

AT7

ບາງກອກ

ໂຮຈີມິນ -

ສິງກະໂປ

ບາງກອກ

M W F S Su

11:5

ໂຮຈີມິນ

DOMESTIC ROUTES

ສຽມຣຽບ

> SIEMREAP

SAVANNAKHET

Transit (VTE) Arr. 1

> HO CHI MINH T Th S

A320

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ

Dep. 09:30

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

AT7

ສິງກະໂປ

> SINGAPORE W F Su

DAY

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ

LUANGPRABANG > JINGHONG Th Su

T Th S

12:0

ສຽມຣຽບ

Daily

13:00

14:00

QV513

AT7

Daily

14:

T Th

08:55

09:55

QV511

AT7

T Th

10:

ບາງກອກ

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

08:25

Transit (PKZ) Arr. 08:55

10:55

QV223

AT7

Dep. 09:25

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

Transit (PKZ) Arr. 1

DOMESTIC ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY

VIENTIANE

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

> LUANGPRABANG

DAY

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

Daily

09:10

10:00

QV111

AT7

M T Th S

07:

Daily

11:30

12:15

QV101

A320

W F Su

07:

T W Th S Su 13:00

13:45

QV105

A320

Daily

13:0

T W Th S Su

14:3

M T Th S

17:00

17:45

QV103

A320

M W F Su

18:

W F Su

17:00

17:45

QV536

A320

T Th S

18:

ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ

> LUANGNAMTHA Daily

11:50

13:05

QV601

AT7

ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ Daily

13:3

LAO AIRLINES OFFICES

INTERNATIONAL OFFICES

DOMESTIC OFFICES

LAO AIRLINES PARTNERS

WIN INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ

LUANGPRABANG > JINGHONG Th Su

10:30

12:30

QV811

07:40

Transit (VTE) Arr. 08:25

PAKSE

13:25

QV535

09:25

09:45

ບາງກອກ -

10:55

QV223

AT7

ໂຮຈີມິນ -

11:20

QV515

AT7

ສຽມຣຽບ

> SIEMREAP

SAVANNAKHET

A320

DAY

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ Th Su

ສິງກະໂປ W F Su

Transit (VTE) Arr

> HO CHI MINH T Th S

Dep. 09:30

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

AT7

ສິງກະໂປ

> SINGAPORE W F Su

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

ໂຮຈີມິນ T Th S

ສຽມຣຽບ

Daily

13:00

14:00

QV513

AT7

Daily

T Th

08:55

09:55

QV511

AT7

T Th

ບາງກອກ

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

08:25

Transit (PKZ) Arr. 08:55

10:55

QV223

AT7

Dep. 09:25

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

Transit (PKZ) Arr

DOMESTIC ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY

VIENTIANE

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

> LUANGPRABANG

DAY

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

Daily

09:10

10:00

QV111

AT7

M T Th S

Daily

11:30

12:15

QV101

A320

W F Su

T W Th S Su 13:00

13:45

QV105

A320

Daily

T W Th S Su

M T Th S

17:00

17:45

QV103

A320

M W F Su

W F Su

17:00

17:45

QV536

A320

T Th S

> LUANGNAMTHA

ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ

ຍງ່ິບນ ິ ຫາຼຍ, ຍງ່ິມສ ີ ດ ິ ທພ ິ ເິສດຫາຼຍ