Lisieux A Pilgrim’s Companion
by David Baldwin To young people - our hope and our future
All booklets are published thanks to the generous support of the members of the Catholic Truth Society
CATHOLIC TRUTH SOCIETY PUBLISHERS TO THE HOLY SEE
Contents Thérèse’s Lisieux . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Who is Saint Thérèse? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Tribute to St Thérèse - The Basilica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 The Family’s Place of Prayer - Cathedral of St Peter .39 Thérèse’s Family Home - Les Buissonnets . . . . . . . . .47 Thérèse’s Final Home - The Carmel . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Final Thoughts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Other Places of St Thérèse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71
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Thérèse’s Lisieux Lisieux is a small, charming, rural town in Normandy of some 27,000 souls, set in a valley at the confluence of the rivers Touques and Orbiquet. It is a commune in the Calvados departement of Basse-Normandie, and is the capital town of the communities of Pays d’Auge. It is close to the coastal holiday resorts of Côte Fleurie, and is about an hour’s drive from each of the cross Channel ferry ports of Le Havre and Caen. The gentle rolling countryside is very reminiscent of rural, farming England, and the area is well known for its smooth Calvados, handsome châteaux and tasty cheese! It is twinned with Taunton, in Somerset – an area also known for its apple and dairy products, and stately homes. On the suburban outskirts of Taunton there is the small, charming Parish church of St Teresa of Lisieux – confirming and strengthening this bond with Lisieux – and St Thérèse (Thérèse, Theresa, Teresa – the variants are interchangeable). The region was inhabited by a Gallic tribe known as the Lexovii in Gallo-Roman times, the inhabitants still being known as Lexoviens today. It suffered its fair share of continental conflicts with destruction by barbarians in the 5th century, pillaged by the Normans in the 9th, and
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reduced by siege in the 12th century by Geoffrey Plantaganet, father of Henry II of England. Thomas à Beckett, Henry II’s archbishop of Canterbury, took refuge here for a period during his seven years exile from England. It was often the subject of dispute during the tangled conflicts of English and French monarchies during the Hundred-Years War (1337-1453). In medieval times the town was a prestigious centre of local industry and the seat of a powerful bishopric, which was suppressed in 1802 by the Napoleonic Concordat following the French Revolution. By the turn of the 20th century it contributed significantly to the French textile and leather industries – now long since gone. A significant part of the town was destroyed during the Allied advance following D-Day. Despite the bombardments and fierce fighting through the town, the Cathedral, Carmel, St Thérèse’s family home and the almost-completed Basilica were left largely unscathed. The few, remaining half-timbered buildings in and around the town give some flavour of its pre-war days. Pilgrim destination Today it is a major pilgrim destination in France, where pilgrims from all over the world come to venerate and seek the intercession of its exalted daughter, Thérèse Martin, the canonised Carmelite nun, St Thérèse of the Child Jesus and the Holy Face.
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There is plenty in Lisieux for the pilgrim to absorb – to learn and reflect on what St Thérèse stands for, her impact since her death, and what has been achieved through her intercession. There is certainly a day’s worth of gentle ‘pilgrimaging’ if one is to fully take in the magnificent Basilica dedicated to St Thérèse, the dignified Gothic cathedral of St Peter, the homely cosy environment of the Martin family home – Les Buissonnets, and the intimate and prayerful atmosphere of the Carmel chapel, where Thérèse’s mortal remains are placed. Taken all together it will give a perfect picture of her family life, her life in the Carmel, and what has happened since her death and canonisation. All these places are within easy walking distance within the town. Except for Les Buissonnets, they are all open and accessible all year round, although opening and closing times may vary, depending on the season. Les Buissonnets is closed Christmas and New Year days, and closes annually from mid-November to mid-December. Details of these times can be obtained from the Sanctuary website (listed at the back), the Pilgrim Bureau close to the Carmel, in rue de Carmel, or the Tourist Information Office just opposite the Carmel, at rue d’Alençon. If you want to extend your pilgrimage there are two very reasonably-priced and well-run pilgrim accommodations associated with the Basilica: Ermitage
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Sainte Thérèse, and Foyer Louis et Zélie Martin, again, details from the Sanctuary website. Lisieux is not overwhelmed by the plethora of shops selling religious artefacts that encircle the Sanctuary at Lourdes; it is very low-key here, only a couple of shops on the approach up to the Basilica. About this book The purpose of this book is threefold. Firstly, it is intended as a pilgrim’s companion to those who are specifically going to Lisieux on pilgrimage. It will take you to the principal places of Thérèse, provide you with a coherent commentary, which will hopefully obviate the usual copious thumbing, shuffling and cross-referencing through guide and prayer books assorted – either French or English! It also suggests some appropriate prayers and meditations at each place. Secondly, for those of you on holiday in the region, it may be worth just slipping this in with your travel guides – and if the weather misbehaves – it can, at least, provide a useful alternative activity – a visit to see the Basilica alone is well worth while! Lastly, it may whet the appetite of those involved in the visit of her Relics to England and Wales in autumn 2009, and indeed, of anyone who happens to bump into her during their life – and lead them to Lisieux to find out more about Thérèse and her times.
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While Thérèse’s life is well known it is not covered in any detail here, though her story is sketched in the next chapter and snippets will emerge as you follow the pilgrim trail. There are abundant publications, of which those of the CTS make a good start – their small, easily digestible books on her life and spirituality are listed at the back. This is more about the place, and how to appreciate it, thereby hopefully enabling a deeper appreciation of who St Thérèse is, and how she brought herself, and us with her, closer to God. There are also many, many websites dealing with Thérèse, and two current principal ones, which will be sufficient to lead you fully into the subject, are listed in the References at the back. “I experienced no regret whatsoever at leaving Alençon; children are fond of change, and it was with pleasure that I came to Lisieux.”
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St Thérèse of Lisieux.
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Who is Saint Thérèse? Much has been written about Saint Thérèse – and of which much is easily and readily available. Thérèse herself wrote, under obedience, much about herself as well – and through her autobiography, Story of a Soul, you can gain deep insight into her life and times, and especially her spirituality. Suffice it though, for this small book on Lisieux, for a thumbnail sketch, placing this extraordinary person into some sort of context with this very ordinary place; the place where Thérèse lived most of her childhood, before disappearing into the enclosure of the Lisieux Carmel for the rest of her life. So, who was Marie-Françoise-Thérèse Martin, to give her full baptismal name, later to become Sister Thérèse of the Child Jesus and the Holy Face, to give her full, professed name? Why does she continue to have such an impact on the Church and people’s lives, to this day, all round the world? On the face of it, she was no-one special: just one of the many hundreds of anonymous Carmelite nuns faithfully living out her vocation of work, prayer and love in her convent in Normandy in the late 19th century.
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Family life Thérèse was born in 1873 in the French town of Alençon, the youngest child of a family of nine. Her father, Louis, was a watchmaker, and her mother, Zélie, a lace maker. It was a pious (in the best sense!), loving and devoted family, which Thérèse was to look back on: “The good Lord was pleased to surround me with love. My first memories are imprinted with the most tender smiles and caresses.” As recognition of their faith and love of God, their family, and of each other, Louis and Zélie Martin were beatified by Pope Benedict XVI in October 2008 – the only married couple, to my knowledge, earning this unique tribute within the context of marriage and family life. Family life was not easy though. Four children – two boys and two girls – died in early childhood. Further tragedy struck the family when Zélie suffered a painful and untimely death from breast cancer when Thérèse was only four years old. This premature death provoked a family move to the nearby town of Lisieux, where Thérèse’s father could be close to his sister-in-law’s family for support. The death of her mother had a profound effect on Thérèse’s early childhood, gradually withdrawing into herself, until at one stage, when she was ten, she sickened to the point of family and friends fearing for
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her life. It was only when praying with her sisters on her sickbed, that through the powerful and telling intercession of Our Lady, she was healed. Vocational calling That she had a deep spiritual inclination, even as a child, was obvious, “As I grew up, I loved God more and more, and I frequently made Him the offering of my heart, using the words my mother had taught me. I strove to please Jesus in all my actions and I guarded with great care against ever offending Him.” Thérèse’s calling to the religious life was something she felt very strongly too, very early on. In her determination to enter Carmel as soon as she possibly could, this shy, reserved girl sought, and was granted, a personal interview with her Bishop, but to no avail. When in Rome with her father, attending a pilgrim audience with Pope Leo XIII, and despite being told by an official that no-one should speak directly to the Pope, she calmly went up and knelt in front of him to petition her cause. His reply, although not a direct ‘yes’ was, “If you enter, it will be God’s will.” However, she continued to draw strength from the unstinting support of her father, and with continuing interviews with senior clergy, she at last achieved her goal, entering the Carmelite convent at Lisieux at the tender age of fifteen, proclaiming, “At last the doors of the Carmel closed behind me, and there I received the embraces of the