The MidCity Advocate 10-23-2024 by The Advocate

Making

Granny Sonnier’s meatball fricassee

‘She was abonaﬁde Cajun’

When Ibegan to plan this new column about food and cooking, Iknew Ihad afew friends in my back pocket who could help kick things off. David D’Aquin was near thetop of that list. David grew upin Lafayette, lived and worked in television news in BatonRouge for anumber of years and now calls Atlanta home. He was torn between two recipes, both his grandmother’s, but ultimately went with her meatball fricassee. David’sgrandmother, ThelmaLegereSonnier,was born in 1922 in the rural Lafayette Parish community of Ossun. She grew up speaking Cajun French and was reprimanded in school for speaking it. David said she was abonaﬁde Cajun, if everthere was one. She eventuallygraduated from Southwestern Louisiana Institute (now University of Louisiana at Lafayette) with a degree in home demonstration “The way shedescribedit to me, she taught women how to be wives —like she was ahome demonstrator.She showed people how to do stuff in the house, in the kitchen,” he said. “She did that for along time, and then eventually, she became the school food supervisor for Lafayette Parish Schools. She oversaw all the lunches that kids would eat in Lafayette Parish.” His grandparents lived only ablock awayfrom the home where he grew up, so he spent alot of time with them. He cut their grass and then cooked with his grandmother on a regular basis. Hisfamily ate lunch with his grandparents

ä See THE DISH, page 3G

PROVIDED PHOTO

Thelma Legere Sonnier,David D’Aquin’sgrandmother and author of the recipe for meatball fricassee, known as ‘Granny’ to D’Aquin, cooks in her kitchen.

Meatball past aand ‘graveyard dir t’ unearthsweet Halloweenmemor ies

In the1960s, Halloween in New Orleanswas aspecial time, ﬁlled with spooky decorations and the eerie charm of the city’s haunted history

For 5-year-old Kevin, Halloween was extra thrilling because Iwas trick-or-treating with my cousins, Lorna and Chet. Lorna was15and loved tellingscary stories, while Chet, 10, had a mischievous streak. The air was crisp, and the streets were ﬁlled with kids dressed as witches, ghosts and monsters. Iremember dressing as acowboy,following behind Lorna and Chet,who were costumed as ablack cat and a pirate. Chet mischievously asked. “How about we visit Madame Delphine’shouse?”

MadameDelphine was one of Lorna’sscariest stories. She had lived in an old, crumbling house and legend had it that she practiced voodoo and never left her

house after dark. Lorna smirked, catching on to Chet’s plan. “Comeon, Kev,” she teased, “it’sjust an old story.”

Reluctantly,Ifollowed Lorna and Chet as they made their way down thestreet, the sound of our footsteps mufﬂed by the thick fog as we approached the old, overgrown yard of Madame Delphine’shouse. The iron gate was rusted and slightly ajar, creaking softly in thewind.

“I dare you to knock on the door,” Chet whispered.

Ihesitated. The house was dark, its windows covered in

ä See MEMORIES, page 2G

Monstrous MeatballPasta

1pound ground beef ½onion, finely chopped ¼cup breadcrumbs 2garliccloves, minced 2tablespoonsfresh parsley, chopped 1egg,beaten Salt and black peppertotaste

1pound long macaroni noodles

1½ cup marinara, warmed Provolone, cut into small rounds Black olives, sliced crosswise into rounds

1. Preheat oven to 400 Fand line alarge, rimmed baking sheet with parchment.

2. In alarge bowl, add beef,onion, breadcrumbs,garlic,parsley,and egg. Season generously withsaltand pepper. Mix ingredients togetheruntil well combined, then shape into 1” balls. Place onto baking sheet.

3. Bake meatballs until done, about13minutes,thenadd apiece of cheese and an olive to each meatball to create “eyeballs.” Bake until cheese is melty,2minutes more.

4. Meanwhile,ina large pot of salted, boiling water, cook long macaroni pasta according to package directions until al dente. Drain and transfer to platter

5. Pourwarmmarinara sauceover macaroni,then scatter with meatballs.

BY BETH DOOLEY

The Minnesota Star Tribune (TNS)

Iadore beets of allkinds:the earthysweet, the lurid magenta, the striped pink andthe goldens. Sure, they’re not to everyone’s taste,but their strong character stands up to arange of intense ﬂavors —vinegar, horseradish, mustard, piquant dairy sauces, vinaigrettes, smoked ﬁsh.

Ilikethem best either steamed or roasted.Cooking mitigates theeffects of geosmin, the naturalearthy compound that beets contain that is associated with the vegetable’ssmell of “fresh rain” and“forest soil.” Early in theseason,beets are mild andsweet; as they mature, they becomemore assertive, morethemselves. Beets are like sponges and absorb ﬂavors quickly,especially if dressed while still warm and left to cool beforehand so theﬂavors are fully absorbed and then re-dressed before serving to give them aboost. The same applies to THEBEETGOESON It’s time to embracethe

ä See BEET, page 3G

Beets are likesponges and absorb flavors quickly, especially if dressed while still warmand left to cool beforehand so the flavors are fully absorbed and then re-dressed before serving to givethem aboost.

Meatball Fricassee 2A

Spooky delights, ghostlygasps await

BY JESSICAFENDER

Contributing writer

’Tis the season for spookiness. And while south Louisiana brims with the macabre, even talesof Madame LaLaurie and the Axeman killer lose their chillafter awhile. Intrepid soulsseeking fresh terrors this October will ﬁnd everything from paranormal specter hunts to aghost town that spans hundreds of acres to a hotel haunted by America’smost famousgunslinger at these four drivabledestinations.

Those looking for new haunts can read on if they dare.

Alexandria

Not only was this Central Louisiana city once named America’s most haunted, it’sbeen investigated twice by the team behind television’s“Ghost Hunters” series. Alexandria boasts abevy of apparitionsinunlikely places, including its history museum and zoological park. (At the latter,anespecially devoted former director is said to teaseguests with mysteriousgrowls and other pranks.)

Getting there: 1.5-3 hours by car

Don’tmiss: Every Halloween night, the Louisiana History Museumhosts an adult scavenger huntspotlighting 14 highly haunted stops throughout the area, including acenturies-old graveyard, adecaying former church and the bedeviled Diamond Grill, aone-time jewelry store where abling-obsessed spirit famously lingers.

Overnight stays in localparanormal hotspots are among the prizes. Tickets are $30.

The stay: The Gilded Age splendor of Hotel Bentley’sdomed lobbymay drop jaws butother rooms in the 1908-built gemchill spines. Look for builder Joseph Bentley in the Mirror Room lounge and listen for conversations coming from the suite where he lived. Just watch your step.Other

on-site apparitions include agirl who fell downanopen elevator shaft and aman who met deathat the bottomofagrandstaircase.

Vicksburg, Mississippi

Up in the Mississippi Delta, the ghost stories grow more macabre, featuring battleﬁelds, bloodshed anduntimelydemises

Getting there: 3-4 hours by car

Don’tmiss: Smell gunpowder in the air and listen for otherworldly footfalls at the Vicksburg National Military Park, thesite of thousands of casualties during the Civil War. At McRaven House (“Vicksburg’s most haunted mansion”), meet three specters —aninfamous highwayman,amother whodied tragically youngand amurdered Confederatesoldier —who each hadahandinbuilding thestately home.Year-round offerings include haunted tours and techassisted ghost hunts. During October,the house adds candlelit tours withperiod actors to its offerings. Tickets start at $25.

The stay: Vicksburg boasts ahalf dozen innswith their own resident phantoms. At the McNutt House, former home to Gov.Alexander McNutt, watch for little Maggie playing in the courtyard.

Jefferson, Texas

This tiny town justover the Louisiana borderoffers Texassizedscares,including one that allegedly inspiredSteven Spielberg’shorror classic, “Poltergeist.”

Getting there: 3.75-5.75 hours

Don’tmiss: Wanderthrough Jefferson’sakimbo streetstofamed spots like the ExcelsiorHouse Hotel,whereSpielberg took fright.

Divedeep into themalevolent spiritsthatdrove out astring of residents of The Grove, one of the mosthaunted historic homes in theLone Star State. Tickets $10. Or join 20-year ghost tour veteranJodi Breckenridge nicknamedthe “Queen of Spook” —who guidesvisitors by lantern light through townand often inside some ofits most spinechilling sites.Tickets $20.

MEMORIES

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grime and soot, and the porch was lined with thick, twisted vines. Just as Ireached the porch, asudden gust of wind blew,and I thought Iheard asoft whisper in the breeze.

“Go ahead, knock!” Chet urged. Taking adeep breath, Iknocked on the door.For amoment, nothing happened. Ilet out asigh of relief. “See? There’snothing —”

Before Icould ﬁnish my sentence, the door creaked open. My eyes widened and Lorna and Chet gasped in unison.

Suddenly,avoice ﬂoated from within. “Come closer,children …”

Ijumped back, my heart racing.

“Did you hear that?”

Lorna and Chet exchanged nervous glances. “It’sprobably just the wind,” Lorna said, though her voice shook slightly

But the voice had been real, and it was calling to us. Before we could decide what to do, the door swung open wider,revealing an old woman. She wore along, ﬂowing dress and had dark, piercing eyes. “Trick or treat,” the woman said

Graveyard Dirt

2(3.5-ounce) packages instant chocolate pudding mix

3cups milk

2cups heavy cream

¼cup powdered sugar

1teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1(14-ounce) packageOreos, crushed, divided Gummy worms, forgarnish

1. In alarge bowl, whisktogether pudding mix and milk until combined. Let situntil thickened, about 3minutes.

2. In aseparate large bowl, beat heavy cream with powdered sugar and vanilla until stiff peaks form.

3. Fold whipped cream and about athird of the crushed Oreos into chocolate pudding.

4. Divide between serving cups, then garnish eachserving with more crushed Oreos and gummy worms.

in araspy voice. Her smile was unsettling. My feet felt glued to the ground. But then, to my surprise, she began to laugh —asoft, kind laugh

that made the tension melt away

“I’m just teasing you,” the woman said. “It’sHalloween, after all! Take some candy,and don’tworry Madame Delphine’sonly astory.”

We each took apiece of candy

As we turned to leave, Icouldn’t help but glance back at the house. It still seemed spooky,but the woman’slaughter had made it feel less threatening.

As we walked back down the street, Igrinned at my cousins.

“Maybe Madame Delphine isn’t so scary after all.”

Lorna smiled, “Not every spooky story is real, but that’s what makes Halloween fun.”

And with that, we made our way home for mom made treats and dinner,the night ﬁlled with laughter,candy,and just the right amount of spooky Halloween adventure.

Kevin Belton is resident chef of WWL-TV and hastaught classes in Louisiana cooking for 30 years. The most recent of his fourcookbooks, “Kevin Belton’s Cookin’Louisiana: Flavors from theParishes of thePelican State,” waspublished in 2021. Email Chef at chefkevinbelton@ gmail.com.

Lethim in with theturkey!

Dear Heloise: Ilike what areader wrote in about doctor’sofﬁce etiquette. Ihave ashort but funny story about getting an appointment. Years ago, Isaw my doctor right before Christmas at a morning rotary meeting. He mentioned that Ishould do something about my snifﬂes. After telling him Iwill not wait in awaiting room unless the situationisreally bad, Ithen mentioned that Iwas frying freshturkeys the sameday for my customers.

1 pound ground chuck

1pound ground pork

2packets of Lipton onion soup mix

¼cup mayo

¼cup breadcrumbs

Hints from Heloise

Itold him Iwould bringhim one if Iwere able to get an ap-

pointment withnowait. He immediately told me 11:30 a.m. As Iopened the clinic door at11:30 a.m., the door was not quite closed when Iheard the doctoryell from theback, “Let Rhettinwith that turkey!” He smelled the thing like ahound dog. Now,once ayear,he expects aturkey,and Iexpect service —30 years later —Rhett Bourgeois, Gonzales

Send ahint to heloise@heloise. com.

Roast Beet Saladwith Horseradish-YogurtCream

Serves4to6.Recipe is from BethDooley.Succulent chunks of roast beets aredrizzledwith arobust horseradish-spikedyogurt cream

Youcan prepare the beetsand thedressingahead and hold themin a covered container in the refrigeratorfor fourdays,then assemble the salad right before serving.

2small bunches (about 2pounds) beets, washed, leaves removed

2tablespoons

horseradish

1tablespoon minced parsley,plusmore forgarnish

3scallions, trimmed and sliced into 1 8 inch-sizedpieces

1. Preheat the oven to 400 F.

2. Drizzle the beets with the oil, season with salt and pepper, and wrap in aluminum foil. Set on a

BEET

Continued from page1G

other root vegetables such as carrots, potatoes,rutabagas and turnips. It’shard to beat the beet-goat cheese salad combo, but there’s plenty more to love. Toss beets with your favorite lemon or lime vinaigrette, curried yogurt and horseradishsauce. Beets pair nicely with salty cured meats and smoked ﬁsh. Cooked beets will keep at least ﬁve days

baking sheet and roast until the beetsare tender (a skewer should easilyslide through), about 35 to 45minutes, depending on the size ofthe beets.

3. While the beets are roasting, whisk together the yogurt, horseradish,lemon juice and parsley Setaside.

4. Remove beets from oven and allowtocool. Once cooled,peel the beets over the sink.

5. Cutinto ½-inch size chunks and arrangeonalarge serving plate or individual plates. Drizzle the dressingover,garnish with scallions and additional chopped parsley

in the refrigerator in acovered container,ready for last-minute side dishes, salads and grain bowls. Red beets “bleed”and stain ferociously,soroast them wrapped in foil until just tender; cookingtimes will vary depending on the sizeand age of the beet Leavethe skins intact until the beet is cooked, then peel them in thesink(ditch the whiteshirt). Those pink and whitestriped Chioggia andgolden beetshardly bleed atall, but ared-stained cuttingboard is themark of a trusty homecook

Powering Progress

4clovesminced garlic (David usually adds abit more,hesaid)

Red pepper flakes (I recommend starting with ateaspoon)

flour for roux

1chopped onion

1chopped bellpepper

3chopped celerystalks

32 ounces of chicken stock

1. Combine the ground meat by hand or with astand mixer David recommends using acookie scoop to measure so the meatballs are uniform. (Wejust rolledours by hand.)

2. Brown the meatballs in adeep pot.

3. At this point,his grandmother pushed themeatballs to the side of the potand continued with the recipe.David removes the meatballs and places them on arack in the oven,set to 200 Ftodrain while he follows thenextfour steps. We followed David’sdirections.

4. Make aroux in the pot where themeatballs cooked, using the

THE DISH

Continuedfrom page1G

every Sunday.His grandmother, whom he called “Granny,” taught David how to makearoux when he was 14.

“There was always more food thannecessary —and that’skind of how Icook now,because Ilearned how to cook from her,” he said.

He has since perfected manyof her dishes, but theone he and his friends and family like best is his version of her meatball fricassee.

“It’sthe one that Idothe best Ialways liked anything that she cooked with rice,” he said. “As achild, anytimeshe would ask, ‘What do you want to eat?’ Iwould just say rice and gravy and meat. That’sexactly what Iwanted.”

He says these days, after he makes thedish and takes that ﬁrst bite, he remembers his grandmother andsmiles

“Nobody who comes over when Icook that is unhappy,you know?” he said. “Wehave afriend here in Atlanta who Iwork with.

grease from the meatballs. (You can use ajarred roux at this point. Here are details on how to make aroux if you’re less familiar with this step.

5. Add vegetablesintothe roux and cook until tender

6. Whisk in thechickenstock

He grew up in Eunice. We had him over fordinner,and Icooked that, and he waslike, ‘Oh my,it tastes likehome.’

After cooking the dish with my husband,I get it. The recipe is simple. The instructions, as taught to David by his grandmother,leave alot to the heart. It’sone of those recipes that requires trusting the process.

“When Iwas akid and she would make it, Iwould eat it with aspoon —and Istill do,” David said withalaugh. When we madeitSaturday,my husband may have been alittle too generous with the red pepper ﬂakes. While Iwas out of the room, he added awhole tablespoon to themeatballs. When we makeitagain, I’ll cut that back signiﬁcantly.Itwas delicious, and thespice didn’tstop me, but we’ll toneitdown next time.

David says he gives it six shakes of pepper ﬂakes.

“I just shake, shake, shake, shake, shake, shake,” he said. “I measure from the heart.” When we madethe dish, our whole house smelled good. When

and“geteverything acquainted,” according to David, as his grandmother instructed.

7. Add meatballs back into the potand simmerfor acouple of hours. Taste at the30-minutemark to check for seasoning.

8. Serve with rice.

friends arrived to join us fordinner,they could smell the homecooked goodness at the door.I served the meatballs and gravy with abig bowlofrice and a simple salad. It wasawinner of ameal.

When Ishared photos with David of the version of his grandmother’sdish that my husband and Imade in our home, he said, “That is exactly what it should look like.”

Iasked him about the distinctive aroma the dish creates.

“Honestly,like the second that the onions go into the roux, there’s just this smell, and it takes me back to my granny’shouse in Lafayette,” he said. “With her green Formica countertops and all.”

The Dish is anew Thursday columnbyJan Risher. Each week,she will try her hand at makingsomeone else’s signaturedish —and compare notes.Ifyou or someoneyou know has asignature dish that you would like Jan to try,email her at jan.risher@theadvocate. com.

“For nearly acentury, theU.S. Gulf Coasthas been centraltoShell’s business and theU.S. energy supply. By investinginour Louisiana assets,we arelowering emissions and supplying thenextgeneration of energy.”

EMMALEWIS

Shell Senior Vice President U.S. Chemicals&Products

ShellinLouisiana is shapingthe future of energy. With thousands of Shellmen andwomen across thestate,weare workingevery daytoreduce emissions,while increasing efﬁciency in our operations

Our tomorrowdepends on whatwedotoday. Together,weare powering progress fora brighterfuture. Louisiana is where we live and we’reproud to call it home.

STAFF PHOTO BY JANRISHER

Meatball fricassee readytobeenjoyedinhonor of GrannySonnier

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