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ROAM Journal of Family Adventure - June 2019

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T H E J O U R N A L O F R E A L FA M I LY A DV E N T U R E

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UNIQUE

VACATIONS

ROAD-TESTED BY REAL FAMILIES WWW.ROAMFAMILYTRAVEL.COM

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OREGON ❘ SPAIN ❘ CAMBODIA ❘ COLOMBIA ❘ YELLOWSTONE ❘ MICRONESIA ❘ ARGENTINA ❘ TANZANIA ❘ INDIA ❘ CALIFORNIA ❘ CROATIA ❘ NEPAL


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I’m a big believer in winging it. I’m a big believer that you’re never going to find a perfect city travel experience or the perfect meal without a constant willingness to experience a bad one. Letting the happy accident happen is what a lot of vacation itineraries miss, I think, and I’m always trying to push people to allow those things to happen rather than stick to some rigid itinerary.” — ANTHONY BOURDAIN

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REAL FAMILIES REAL ADVENTURES REAL FUN

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ver wonder how ordinary families take extraordinary vacations? We did. So ROAM spent years gathering tales from intrepid parent travelers who’ve taken their kids to offthe-theme-park-track spots and publishing the details on ROAMFamilyTravel.com.

And though we wanted to know the “where,” we were equally intrigued by the “how.” How do families find resources to plan, take and pay for incredible journeys in today’s crazy-busy world? Whether campers in the mountains or sailors in the tropics, ROAMing families have three things in common: They make travel a priority, they believe time together is the best part, and they devote a ton of time to independent planning and research. ROAM’s Journal of Real Family Adventure aims to make unique vacations easier to take. In the following pages, veteran travelers share the highs, lows, and must-knows from more than fifty exciting trips around the world, with links to more information online. What you won’t find is any professional photos or marketing copy: All the images, stories, and tips are from the parents who’ve been there, so you’ll know you can follow in their footsteps.

Let’s ROAM!

MARYANN JONES THOMPSON ROAM Founder & Editor in Chief San Francisco, California, June 2019

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Heather Edwards

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F I N D YO U R A DV E N T U R E

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TIPS & TRICKS FOR BETTER TRIPS

Advice from veteran parent travelers ADVENTURE Turning “Vacation” into “Adventure” P_11

COLOMBIA

A Rebirth of Plazas, Playas & People

PLANNING How to tackle Europe with kids P _ 1 2 GEAR Editor’s picks for Gear of the Year P_13 PACKING The secret to the perfectly packed family P _ 1 4 ON THE ROAD Ways to keep both parents and kids happy P _ 1 5 PHOTOS Winning travel photographers share their secrets P _ 1 6 TECH Must-have apps for avid travelers P_17 6

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ROAM’S

19 FOR 2019

The most exciting vacations of the year

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OREGON Adventuring by Airstream P _ 2 7

4CAMBODIA Way More than Angkor P _ 3 0 5SPAIN The Sublimity of San Sebastián P_33 6MICRONESIA Manta-Hunting on the Reefs of Yap P _ 3 6 7INDIA Himalayan Trekking with the Women of Ladakh P _ 3 9 8TANZANIA The Toughest Kilimanjaro Climb P_42 9CROATIA

ARGENTINA Glacial Perfection in Patagonia P_24

The Coast by Catamaran P_45 10 I D A H O Rafting Heaven in Hell’s Canyon P _ 4 8


11 S O U T H A F R I C A Private Reserve Wildlife Wonders P _ 5 1 12 C A N A D A Windswept Wonders of Îles de la Madeleine P _ 5 4 13 N E P A L To Everest Basecamp with Babies P _ 5 7 14 I N D O N E S I A Houseboating into Borneo’s Jungle P _ 6 0 15 N E W H A M P S H I R E Exploring the White Mountains P_64 16 C A L I F O R N I A Something for Everyone on Catalina P _ 6 7 17 G A L A P A G O S Cruising Nature’s Isles of Amazement P _ 7 0 18 P O R T U G A L Loving Lisbon & Beyond P_73 19 T H E PHILLIPINES Palawan, Coror and More Budget Isles P _ 7 6

MORE AMAZING & UNFORGETTABLE ADVENTURES

A full year of family vacation time together WINTER HOLIDAZE See the snows of Yellowstone, Chamonix, Alaska, Tahoe & Colorado P _ 8 2 SPRING BREAKIN’ Beat the heat in Bermuda, Maui, Guadalajara, Belize & Cuba P _ 8 4 THANKSGIVING FEASTS

ROAM’S 2019

Autumn-leaf peep in Woodstock, Kyoto, Yosemite, Pennsylvania & San Francisco cabins P _ 8 6

Best Family Travel Photos

DESTINATION 101

GRAND PRIZE Smiles in Ladakh P _ 9 6

The basics & best of Barcelona, Oahu, Buenos Aires, Bali & Caribbean yachting P _ 8 8 QUICK PICKS Layover or getaway to Vancouver, Dubai, Lodi, the Jersey Shore & Nashville P _ 9 0 PARENT ESCAPES Special-occasion spots for couples adventures P _ 9 2

NATURE Autumn in Germany P _ 1 4 ACTION Jeep Jumping in Bolivia P _ 1 5 CULTURE A New Friend in Morocco P _ 3 PORTRAIT Dune Leap in Dubai P _ 1 6 WINTER Swimming in Sydney P _ 1 7 SPRING Paris in Blue P _ 1 2


WITH US


From rafting to relaxing and from epic treks to weekend getaways, ROAM contributors have crisscrossed the globe and share their most exciting travel tales in the pages of this issue.


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TIPS TRICKS FOR BETTER TRIPS F R O M T H E PA R E N T S WHO’VE BEEN THERE

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DVENTUR

FINDING FIRSTS

HOW TO TURN A VACATION INTO AN ADVENTURE ROAM covers out-of-the-box trips for families. What makes an extraordinary vacation? Here’s the kind of traveling our editors love. New A place both parents and kids are exploring for the first time, together. Custom The best experiences are not plug-and-play; some amount of independent planning is required. Valuable Whether cheap or expensive, all adventures deliver value for the money. Active Just sitting on a tour bus or in the backseat doesn’t qualify. Scary Feeling a bit nervous about some aspect of the trip is a good sign. If you’re new to independent traveling but want to add a bit of spice to your next family trip, you can ease into the pool of adventure without being forced to jump in the deep end. Start with a visit to a friend living overseas, booking a family tour, or using a travel agent. They’ll be able to match your appetite for adventure, safety, comfort and expense with a vacation you’ll crave.

THE MOST MEMORABLE TRIPS ARE NOT PLUG-AND-PLAY

“It’s hard to describe the feeling of watching our seven-year-old top out after his first 75-foot climb. When this little dude got vertical, his focus, commitment, and problem-solving were on full display. Heavy rains had forced all the climbers under one overhang to find dry rock. He got stuck on a problem for quite a while near the top, but when he got past it, the two dozen folks watching from below erupted in hoots and hollers.” – Didrik Johnck Read more: bit.ly/roam2019thailand

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19 Adventures for 2019 These trips aren’t for every family — and they won’t be easy to book this month — or even this year. ROAM editors’ picks for the year’s most unique and exciting vacations aim to inspire and shape your family’s travel plans for years to come. Read more: bit.ly/roam2019sicily 18

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PERFECT TIME

“T

he bridge will come down at any moment!!!” the clerk yelled as we neared the front desk. We had no idea what he was talking about. We had just made our way through the billowing white curtains into the hotel’s monastery-meets-spa, Enya-blaring lobby, my husband and I nodding to each other that we’d chosen the wrong hotel for our energetic kids. But this man was emphatic. “Everyone is at the glacier — GO!” the clerk demanded, gesturing wildly. We had suspected something was up from the moment we landed that morning. We remembered how the tiny local airport had been brimming with travelers and excitement. And many tourists were weighed down by super fancy cameras and gear — but we’d landed in southern Patagonia and assumed everyone comes prepped for a once-in-a-lifetime experience. 24

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GL ACIAL ACTION AND L E G E N DA RY H I K I N G I N A R G E N T I N A’ S S O U T H By Sarah Hart

We didn’t know if we should be excited or afraid, but even the kids knew he was serious. We threw caution to the wind, jumped back in the car and headed for the glacier. As my husband headed down the highway and the kids bubbled with anticipation in the backseat, I braved the spotty wireless to figure out what was going on. Perito Moreno is the most famous of Argentine glaciers. Once every few years, huge chunks of ice begin dropping into the lake below, resulting in the collapse of a massive ice “bridge” connecting the glacier to the mainland. Scientists, photographers, tourists, and locals wait up to 15 years for the chance to see the natural spectacle — but our luck landed us in the hottest spot in icy Patagonia at precisely the perfect moment. The drive from our hotel to the glacier was about 40 miles, and we were making good time until a heavy, icy rain began to fall. As we got closer to the park, the traffic became stop and go. After waiting in traffic for almost two hours, a bunch of cars started streaming


The ROAM Report Healthy Glacier Perito Moreno is a unique glacier in today’s world of climate change: It is healthy and still advancing, rather than retreating. Its bridge builds up over years of forward motion, connects with the land, and creates a dam that causes the water levels to rise, and pressure to build. Eventually, this pressure causes the dam to break and the flowing water creates a tunnel under an ice bridge. At this point, huge chunks of ice start calving into the lake, and eventually, the bridge over the tunnel collapses. This happens cyclically, generally every 2 to 4 years, but sometimes as many as 15 years can pass without a collapse.

SOUTHERN PATAGONIA, ARGENTINA

toward us, leaving the park. We assumed we had missed the big event but decided to keep on going, ✚ Travelers: Two adults and two kids, hoping we could at least get ages 7 and 10. a glimpse of the glacier while ✚ Dates: One week in spring 2018, as part of a three-month sabbatical we were there. ✚ Itinerary: El Calafate (1 night, then 2 By the time we parked additional nights upon return from El and rode the bus to the Chaltén) and El Chaltén (4 nights). entrance, it was nearly 5 p.m. ✚ Cost: $1,500 (excluding flights) and storm clouds were gath✚ Read more: bit.ly/roam2019/patagonia ering. We grabbed some warm cookies and tea at the snack bar, headed out over the catwalks, and got our first glimpse of big ice. We were completely awed by the massive blue slab — but we continued to hurry down the path to the viewing platform. To our surprise, the bridge was still there! The rain had thinned the crowds so we were able to squeeze ourselves into a good viewing spot. We spent the next two hours mesmerized. Every time a chunk of ice would crash spectacularly into the water, the crowd would erupt in cheers and we would happily join them. As night began to fall and the storm became more intense, officials closed the park and shuttled all of the disappointed guests back to their cars without seeing the big finale. But we were actually the last group to see the bridge intact: That sneaky arch collapsed later, in the dark, with only a few park rangers in attendance. We didn’t care that we had missed the actual collapse; our family had witnessed something truly remarkable that we would never forget. We drove away buzzing with excitement, so grateful for what we had seen, and completely blown away by our first glimpse of the enormity and expansiveness that is Patagonia. ❖

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THE GOOD STUFF The El Calafate Area

Glaciers Galore. If Perito Moreno isn’t enough for you, there’s a ton of companies offering half-day and full-day boat tours to see others: Upsala (the largest in South America) and Spegazzini. Glaciarium. This super cool, modern museum focuses on glaciers and on the terrain of southern Patagonia, featuring interactive exhibits, short films, and everything you have ever wanted to know about snow and ice. The location is incredible. Ice Bar. The most exciting part of the Glaciarium for my kids was the 20 minutes we spent in its Ice Bar. For an additional fee, we were led down some stairs into the basement of the museum and outfitted in shiny superhero capes, gloves, and boots, all designed to keep us from getting hypothermia. We were offered ice glasses of Sprite and vodka and invited to dance around to blaring techno, which of course we did. Laguna Nimez. Glaciered out? This ecological reserve has 80 different types of birds, including the Chilean flamingo, and it is a great kid hike.

Lodging. The Santa Monica Aparts are clean, quiet and well-situated. They were so helpful and friendly, and delivered warm croissant-like medialunas, coffee, tea, and fruit every morning. Food. El Calafate is a decently large town so we found some good meals while we were there. Las Cruces was perfect for kids and the food at La Zeina and Mi Rancho was excellent, especially if you like steak and your littles are able to chill out for a sit-down meal.

The Big Trek We had decided early on that we would hike as far as seemed doable, then turn around and head back when our 7-year-old started to wilt — possibly to the 4 km turning point which has a fabulous view of the Fitz Roy peaks. Fueled by other trekkers, and a shameless Starburst candy bribe at every kilometer sign, the kids exceeded our expectations. Up until the very end of the hike, the trail was completely manageable, but there’s an abrupt grade change in the last kilometer as you climb a narrow trail on crumbly rock. My kids were in, but several adults, coming down, some nearly in tears, said it was very icy and slippery and that the conditions seemed to be worsening; in short, head back. Although we were a bit disappointed, it ended up being the right choice. By the time we returned to town, we had hiked about 14 miles over 8 hours and my little one’s feet were pretty sore. Still, we were proud we’d made it so far and were dazzled by all we had seen.

The El Chaltén Area Ski Town Vibe. Considered the trekking capital of Argentina, El Chaltén is a small village surrounded by the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre Mountains. Similar to a low key ski town, this village really exists because of all the trekkers and climbers who are drawn to the area. We spent 4 nights in this awesome little village and could have easily stayed longer. We had fantastic, cozy dinners at La Cerveceria Artesanal and La Tapera. The Hiking! This is why you come to Patagonia: Unbelievable hiking trails with beautiful vistas at every turn. We did three hikes over three days, sadly forfeiting our fourth day because of inclement weather. 1. Mirador de Los Condores proved to be a great afternoon hike. 2. Chorillo del Salto was a very short hike to a gorgeous waterfall. 3. Sendero al Fitz Roy is the most famous hike in the region. Post-Hike Treats. After a long day of hiking in cold wet weather, there’s nothing quite like a stop at La Waffleria, a super cozy spot with choose-your-own-topping waffles. Pair with a submarino (do-it-yourself hot chocolate served as hot milk with a chocolate bar) and all whining comes to a halt and you are ready for a nap. Thank you, gods of sugar and bribery.

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AIRSTREAM ADVENTURE By Cullen Wiginton

THREE WEEKS OF OREGON’S DIVERSE W I L D E R N E SS A N D H I P ST E R TOW N S

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s we approached an extended climb up Highway 97 in far northern California, it hit me: “What did we get ourselves into?” Our 18-year-old Toyota SUV had never failed before, but we had also never asked her to pull a carload of four and a 5,700-pound Airstream up a mountain pass. She was doing her best, but our RPMs were rising as fast as our speed was dropping. Slowly, we sputtered up the incline as a line of traffic backed up behind us on the two-lane road. My hands were death-gripped around the steering wheel. “Are you leaning forward?” my wife asked with a smile, as she looked judgingly at my driving posture. “Yes,” I replied. “Do you think it is helping?” While perching at the front of my seat actually did little to help, we ultimately made it over the crest and began our descent toward the Oregon border and our three-week trailer camping adventure: Engine sputters, a knotted muscle between my shoulder blades, and a

fair amount of evil eyes from the few lucky drivers who were able to pass our giant rig. My shot nerves made me wonder if our inaugural trip might also be our last. Were we really trailer people? Just weeks before, we had purchased a used Airstream trailer as a part of an extended midlife crisis that has been playing out in our family; we were excited to see where “Rusty, the Big Gray Whale” would take us. A big part of this crisis involved my wife and I busily concocting crazy travel schemes, while our pragmatic kids rolled their eyes at each new plan, understanding that any efforts to dissuade us were futile. But our Airstream scheme was a big hit. We zigzagged the best of the Beaver State — from hiking near cobalt Crater Lake to inner-tubing in Sunriver to sipping “craft everything” in Bend to berry picking in the Columbia River Gorge. We watched lumberjacks “log roll” and tasted “hipster everything” in Portland before moving to the epic vistas of the coast, where the seafood, WWW.ROAMFAMILYTRAVEL.COM

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beach walks, dune rolls, whale watching, and smalltown marinas provided nonstop entertainment — not to mention a chance to master the “22-point U-turn.” “Are you driving with one hand?!?“ my wife asked in shock and awe as I deftly navigated coastal turns. I’m not sure what let me shed my ball of nerves, but by the time we neared the California border again on our ride home, I had found my happy place. We were no longer hurrying to get anywhere; we were enjoying the ride. Because after 21 days and 2,000 miles Airstreaming around Oregon, I came to a realization: Indeed, we are now trailer people. ❖

The ROAM Report

OREGON BY AIRSTREAM ✚ Travelers: Cully, Jan, and the kids 9 and 7, plus our trailer dubbed “Rusty, the Big Gray Whale” ✚ Date: August 2018 ✚ Itinerary: Seven days up through central California and Oregon, five days in Portland and the Columbia River Gorge and nine days working our way down the coast back home. ✚ Cost: About $50 a night average for our camping spots. Approximately $800 for gas. $50 to $200 per day for food and activities, depending on whether eating in or dining out. ✚ Read more: bit.ly/roam2019oregon

THE GOOD STUFF Crater Lake

What a sight Crater Lake is to behold: The view from the rim, hundreds of feet above the lake, is amazing, with vibrant blues and greens; it’s seemingly the most pristine body of water we’d ever seen. A leisurely hike on the Discovery Point Trail near the visitor center is wide, flat and perfect for families (though you’ll want to grab a hand for some of the cliffside spots.) Cleetwood Cove is the one point where you can get down to water level for a swim in Crater Lake. It is accessed by a steep trail that descends over 700 feet from the parking lot. The trip down to the lake was easy enough, and we were rewarded with crystal clear water, which was a chilly 55 degrees, but a welcome refresher on a hot day. The way back up? A little complain-y. The steep uphill trail was a tough one in the heat of the day, and our kids definitely could have used a donkey or a sherpa. A stop by the visitor center for some ice cream made everyone feel better.

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Sunriver/Bend Much like their big-city counterparts in Portland, Bend’s hipster locals revel in good food, creative spaces, and “craft” everything. This was on full display at Spoken Moto — a motorcycle shop that included several food trucks, a coffee shop, a craft beer bar, and a clothing boutique. A trip to Bend isn’t complete without getting in the Deschutes River. While renting tubes from Tumalo Creek Kayak & Canoe, we happened to run into some old friends, and formed a giant flotilla. Even in August the water was a bit chilly, but floating the river was a ton of fun.


The Coast The Cannon Beach Hardware & Public House is a unique restaurant/ hardware store combination that lets you dine next to a large display of screws and bolts. Where else can you get fish and chips and a coax cable under the same roof?! The famed Haystack Rock on Cannon Beach is impressive in size and a true natural wonder, jutting out of the surf and into the salty air. And who could resist a dune buggy excursion with Sandland Tours? More roller-coaster ride than day tour, the zooming experience was an incredibly fun way to explore the dunes while getting a rush of adrenaline. The gorgeous bluff-top setting made Harris Beach State Park another of our most memorable spots to stay. Our kids made friends at the large playground, and we enjoyed a hike down to the coast to spend a little time at the beach.

Columbia River Gorge

Portland

The Columbia River Gorge area has a lot to offer. We watched windsurfers, hiked up the short but steep Beacon Rock Trail for breathtaking views of the valley, and visited the impressively high cascade of Multnomah Falls. Dining-wise, a can't-miss stop on a trip through the valley is the Brigham Fish Market. From their outdoor tables overlooking the river, we enjoyed amazing local smoked salmon chowder and sturgeon fish and chips before picking blackberries off the bushes outside for dessert.

After checking into the Sandy Riverfront RV Resort and enjoying an afternoon swim, we played some laid-back golf and ate an al fresco dinner while exploring the sprawling Edgefield McMenamins. The hard-to-describe hotel compound that revitalized the property of a poor house from the early 1900s and incorporates restaurants, bars, a winery, a brewery, a movie theater, and a very short par-3 style golf course. We took the kids to many family-friendly foodie spots downtown. From the outstanding brunch at Tasty N Alder, to the Thai street food at Pok Pok, to the stops for sweets at Voodoo Donuts and Salt and Straw, the eating in Portland did not disappoint.

MAKING THE MOST OF CAMPING ADVENTURES GO LOCAL

GO SLOW

GO GOURMET

We loved sampling the local goods everywhere we went. Coffee from local roasters in Portland, ice cream from Tillamook, locally caught seafood in the Columbia River Gorge. And let’s not forget the beer. It seems even the smallest towns in Oregon had at least one craft brewery.

Packing up every day doesn’t let you stop to smell the roses. We tried to stay at least two nights in every spot so we could explore the area, and realized that many of the gems we discovered were during that one extra day.

Just because you’re camping doesn’t mean you have to eat hot dogs and beans every day. I love to cook, and the combination of a real (albeit, small) kitchen in the trailer, Oregon local foods, and being on “vacation time” meant some pretty tasty meals on the road.


Find Your Adventure! More interesting and inspirational trips for intrepid families looking to make the most of school holidays and together time. Read more: bit.ly/roam2019ecuador 80

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winter holidaze

Winter Wilds of Yellowstone An epic expedition of snow, steam & solitude

It was -28°F — but it was a dry -28°. There were no clouds, no wind, and no crowds. After a morning of other-worldly views on the snowcoach ride to Yellowstone’s Snow Lodge, we watched Old Faithful erupt with just a few dozen folks before heading out across the Upper Geyser basin on one of the most extraordinary day hikes of our lives: We passed bison grazing in the snow, geysers belching steam, ponds bubbling with various, multi-colored liquids, and trees coated with clumps of geothermally enhanced snow. We had driven 1,200 miles in two days, from Christmas in sunny Southern California to New Year’s in icy northern Yellowstone. We entered the world’s first national park near Bozeman, Montana and stayed at Mammoth Hot Springs so that we could drive through the Lamar Valley–the only road open to private vehicles in the winter. On the half-day drive, we saw few cars but many elk, bighorn sheep, otter, moose, and bison eking out their January existence atop yards of powder. Yes, it was freezing. Yes, we all endured a bout of flu-like illness. Yes, my son did the whole snowy week on crutches. And yes, we would do it again in a heartbeat. Hands down, Yellowstone is the best winter road trip in America, a must-see spectacle that is worth every dollar, minute, and shiver you can muster. — Don Thompson Read more: bit.ly/roam2019yellowstone

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Winter in Denali

Christmas in Chamonix

Residents of the Last Frontier would like to make one thing perfectly clear: “Alaska is not closed in the winter.” Most curious would-be winter visitors harbor the belief that Alaska’s popular summertime destinations like Denali National Park shut their front gates once Labor Day weekend passes.

It is almost indescribable how beautiful Chamonix is in wintertime. The tiny French hamlet sits in a valley nestled between Mt. Blanc and the tips of a dozen other Alpine peaks. The lifts whisk skiers from the village to the top of the mountain. The village twinkles with Christmas everywhere. The locals are lovely and welcoming.

Denali and the small communities around this 9,492-square-mile national park are wide open during the non-summer months, welcoming adventurous families with a plethora of recreation options, as long as said families are prepared for the large, yet interesting differences between summer and winter. — Erin Kirkland

After years of planning, our Christmas in Chamonix was really happening! And it was picture perfect–except for one thing: The snow. There wasn’t enough to ski! But our Alpine Noel proved unforgettable, with gooey Christmas fondue, epic views, skiing in Italy and–who’d have guessed?–paragliding in the Alps! — Belinda O’Neil

Read more: bit.ly/roam2019alaska

Read more: bit.ly/roam2019chamonix

Colorado for Non-Skiers

Sierra Snow in Tahoe

Colorado is renowned as a downhill skier’s paradise, but it’s plenty of snow-covered fun for nonskiers, too. From ice climbing to skijoring to snowkiting — yes, you read that right — there are many familyfriendly wintertime activities even non-skiers can enjoy throughout the Centennial State.

I’m biased, but I can’t think of a better winter family getaway than Lake Tahoe. With an average of 300 to 500 inches of fresh Sierra Nevada powder annually, most visitors head straight for the ski slopes. But what if you need a break from the mountain mayhem? Not a problem on the West Shore.

One of our favorites is the dog-sledding program at YMCA’s Snow Mountain Ranch (SMR) in Granby. The property offers the usual array of winter activities: ice skating, tubing, fat-biking, Nordic-skiing and more. But the most popular attraction is the dog sledding, looping two miles through the open meadows and snow-bedazzled peaks. And all participants can meet the darling canine athletes when they’re not running. — Heather Mundt

Want to snowshoe, snowmobile or snowbike? Do a ropes course in the snow? Ice skate or sleigh ride? Take a walk by the lake? Shop and eat in Truckee, the hippest California mountain town around? Or just stay near the cabin for snowball fights, snowman building and marshmallow toasting? — Carolyn Jensen

Snowshoe, ski, and drive in Alaska’s backcountry

Irresistible Rocky Mountain thrills

A season of sparkle, not snowpack

Family fun beyond the slopes

Read more: bit.ly/roam2019tahoe

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Spring Breakin’ Atop the Bermuda Triangle Outdoor adventure in the Atlantic

It’s tough to believe that Bermuda used to be known only as a destination for the newly wed, almost-dead or over-fed. What used to be a playground for honeymooners, retirees, and cruise ship daytrippers is now one of the hottest islands in the world. After legalizing gay marriage and receiving accolades from the travel press, there is no doubt that the mid-Atlantic isle is drawing families and jetsetters at an eye-popping clip. And it’s easy to see why. After flying just two-and-a-half hours from the East Coast, our summer week in Bermuda was a blur of pink beaches, pirate grottos, bike trails, limestone caverns, and sparkling coves. We hiked, biked, swam and explored the picturesque and historic villages. The Bermudans were lovely ambassadors to their intoxicating mix of British, Caribbean, and American culture. Our teens could not get enough of the cliff jumps or the snorkeling. My husband and I loved the bright spirit and the rum swizzles. The only thing we missed in Bermuda? Any sign of “Triangle” mysteries. — Jill Headley Read more: bit.ly/roam2019bermuda

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Swimming in Maui

Toddling through Guadalajara

It started with a fight. As my finger hovered over the online registration button for municipal swim lessons in San Francisco, my four-year-old daughter began to wail, “Noooo! I DO NOT want to take swim lessons here… I’ll take swim lessons in Maui!”

I was so enchanted by Guadalajara. Five times bigger than my home of San Francisco, the city was percolating with energy, color, and wonderfully warm people. Guadalajara is the cultural center of Mexico and very well-equipped to welcome tourists, although I met very few. What a joy it was to see a true picture of Mexican city life.

Paradise with purpose

Maybe she was right. What better place to get my daughter excited about swimming than in Maui, where we’d be surrounded by surf, sun, and water everywhere? Our trip wouldn’t be a swim boot camp for preschoolers — it would be a vacation with a little added structure. I eagerly typed “swim lessons Maui” into Yelp. — Maria De La O Read more: bit.ly/roam2019maui

Twins take on the heart of Mexico

The twins had a ball every day: listening to music, strolling plazas and churches, hanging out with a polar bear, and toddling until they crashed hard in their stroller. After our “Big City” days, we decamped for Lake Chapala and more fun and relaxation. It was a perfect family trip to the heart of Mexico. — Darya Moore Read more: bit.ly/roam2019guadalajara

Take the Kids to Cuba

Wet & Wild in Belize

As we prepped for our week in Cuba, a friend asked, “Wouldn’t it be more fun without the kids? All those hot Havana nights? The clubs? The rum? The rhumba?”

If your dream family vacation involves a beach with the whitest sand and lightest water, get thee to Belize.

Not as “hot” but just as cool

Rough it — then relax it

The truth is, it never crossed our minds to leave our kids at home — and we didn’t regret our decision for an instant. Right after the U.S. reopened Cuba to independent travel in 2015, Americans flocked to the island. And though the destination isn’t as “hot” today, Cuba’s people, cities, beaches, and mountains still deliver a once-in-alifetime family vacation — one we’ll never forget. — Megan Harvey and Jodi Glasser

But Belize is so much more than just stunning beaches. We were looking for an eco-friendly escape in Central America, with some combination of roughing it and a few small luxuries. After a little more research, Belize won out — we wanted a more snorkel-friendly (rather than surf-friendly) beach experience for our 8-year-old and 6-year-old. Plus Belize’s Mayan ruins and jungle adventures offered something new and unusual that we could all explore together. — Dina Harrison

Read more: bit.ly/roam2019cuba, bit.ly/roam2019oldcuba

Read more: bit.ly/roam2019belize


EVEREST. CAMBODIA. MEDELLÍN. — WITH KIDS?!

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orget the typical kid-toting destinations and follow ROAM’s intrepid families as they dive in Catalina, yacht in Croatia, trek in Patagonia, camp in the Philippines, dine in Spain, and crisscross the rest of the globe on more than fifty unique adventures. Live through the REAL highs and lows, fun times and freakouts, as the award-winning online magazine compiles the tales and details of its most exciting trips of the year!

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WWW.ROAMFAMILYTRAVEL.COM


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ROAM Journal of Family Adventure - June 2019 by Californian Guides - Issuu